Connoisseur Models Six Wheeled All Third Coach User manual

Six Wheeled All Third Coach
Prototype. Most of the pre grouping railway companies built six wheeled coaches to similar designs. Many continued in service on branch lines until the 1950’s and others were converted for engineers department use. This kit is based on a S&DJR prototype chosen because it is very similar in appearance to coaches owned by most of the pre grouping companies. Many modellers will be happy to paint it in their chosen railways livery.
Kit. This has been designed to provide an economical coach that can be built in a reasonable period of time to a level of detail suitable for running on a layout. A pre-rolled brass roof is provided, as is material to make the floor and compartment partitions. Etched door and grab handles are included. Wheels, 3’7”, Mansell Disc (7124) are required to complete, available from Slater’s, Telephone [phone].
Connoisseur Models, 33 Grampian Road, Penfields, Stourbridge, DY8 4UE, Tel [phone]

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
Please read this section carefully, especially if this is your first etched brass kit. Many modellers
fight shy of working in this medium, but the basic skills are relatively easy to acquire. Once
you’ve learned how to form and solder brass, you’ll find all kinds of modelling possibilities will
open up for you.
Assembling an etched kit involves exactly the same skills that a scratchbuilder uses – the only
difference is that the cutting out of the parts is already done for you. Some filing and trimming
will, however, be necessary from time to time. Where this is the case, I have highlighted it in the
instructions.
The main skill to master is soldering and I would recommend a Weller 40 Watt soldering iron.
This has a 6mm diameter, removable copper bit. The bit is shaped like a screwdriver and has a
bright coating of solder (tinned). This combination of iron and bit shape is ideal for running fillet
joints and has a good reserve of heat, that is necessary for soldering small parts on to large
components. Note the shape and condition of a new bit, as this won’t last long and will need
restoring back to this condition.
It is important to keep the bit clean and in good condition as you work. Get a soldering iron
stand containing a damp sponge; old oxidized solder is wiped off on this before picking up fresh
solder for each joint. If you haven’t made a joint for some time you may find that a hard black
crust has formed on the bit. Remove this with a brass wire brush (suede brush) and then feed
some multicore solder onto each side of the bit to restore a bright surface (referred to as wetting
or tinning the bit). After about 8 hours use you will find the bit is in poor condition, with holes and
a ragged edge. File the bit back to its original shape using a hand bastard file and then polish the
surfaces on emery cloth. Coat the bit with Fluxite Soldering Paste (traditionally used by
plumbers) and this will prevent the bare copper oxidizing as the iron heats up. Then feed
multicore solder onto the bit to form a generous coating and leave to bubble away for a couple of
minutes before wiping excess off to give a bit almost as good as new.
A smaller Antex 25 Watt iron with a 3.2mm screwdriver bit is very useful for small assemblies
and detail work such as handrails, but will have insufficient heat reserve for main assembly work.
The Antex has a plated iron bit, after a little use with 145° solder a grey oxide appears on the bit
that will prevent you from picking up the solder. Touch the bit to some multicore solder and it will
flash over the bit, wetting it so that you can continue picking up 145° solder. I have found no
problems with mixing the two solders in this way.
I use 145° solder for virtually all assembly work. I prefer it in wire form, available from
Branchlines, but it is also produced in stick form by Carrs. I find that its lower working
temperature helps to give a quick clean joint. Limiting the build up of heat in components, which
may cause distortion. I find that I can hold parts together with my finger ends and make a joint
before heat reaches my fingers or other etched parts drop off.
I use 60/40, tin/lead, fluxed multicore electrical solder (melting point about 190°) mainly to keep
the iron bits in good condition. As it gives a slightly stronger joint than 145° I sometimes use it for
small spot joints on handrail wire, lamp brackets etc, but still use extra liquid flux.
For all brass and nickel silver work I use Carrs green label liquid flux. You will soon get the feel
for how much to use but more problems are caused by too little flux than too much.
Before soldering components together, thoroughly clean both surfaces along the join line with a
glass fibre burnishing brush. Using your tweezers or a knife blade etc, hold the parts together in
the correct position and, with an old paintbrush, run some flux along the area to be joined. Still
keeping the parts correctly aligned, pick up a small quantity of solder on the tip of your iron and
carry it to the joint (unlike electrical soldering, when you feed solder into the joint). Hold the iron
against the joint just long enough for the solder to flash between the parts. Don’t let go of the
parts until the solder has cooled – this takes from five to ten seconds. To run a fillet of solder
along a joint, wait until the solder flashes between the parts and then pull the molten solder along
Page 2

the joint with the iron tip. Don’t load the iron tip with a lot of extra solder, but work the joint in 1”
lengths, bringing in small quantities of solder. Brass is a very forgiving material and if you get
something out of alignment, use heat from the iron to desolder the joint before starting again. For
complicated assemblies, it is a good idea to only tack solder parts together. You can then make
adjustments by desoldering until you are happy with the location of parts and then solder solid.
When you need to laminate two or more layers of brass together, align the parts and carefully
clamp them together, either in the vice or by holding them with miniature crocodile clips. Run flux
around the edges, and then go around with the soldering iron. Clean up thoroughly afterwards.
To fit small parts and overlays on to a larger assembly, such as strapping to a wagon side,
when you need to prevent finely detailed areas such as planking becoming clogged up with
solder. Tin the back of the small component first, then hold in place on the model and apply flux.
Carefully wipe the tip of your iron on a sponge to remove any solder from it (dry iron), and then
touch it against the parts to be joined. After a few seconds you’ll see molten solder bubbling from
the edges. Remove the iron, still holding the parts in place, and allow the joint to cool. An
alternative is to use solder paint (I would recommend Carrs 188 solder paste). As the name
suggests, this is a flux and solder in one. Simply apply a thin coat of solder paint to the back of
the component instead of tinning. Still apply a small amount of liquid flux before you solder the
part into place.
Any surplus solder should be removed using a craft knife, I find No 10 curved scalpel blades
ideal, then burnish clean with a glass fibre brush. With practice, you’ll learn how to use the
minimum amount of solder to do the job. Flux is corrosive so, after each soldering session, give
your model a good scrub with washing up liquid or Jif. After a day or two, any remaining flux
residues will show as a green film, which should be washed away.
To cut parts from the fret, use a sharp Stanley knife on a piece of hardboard or a pointed
scalpel blade on a block of softwood. Remove tags and burrs with a fine file.
Three-dimensional parts are formed by folding. On an etched brass kit, the fold lines are
normally half-etched on the inside of the fold. You’ll be able to fold most parts using smooth-
jawed pliers. For longer parts folding bars are desirable.
Other useful tools include a bench vice, a good pair of tweezers, a set of Swiss files (get a full
set of cheap ones and then buy quality replacements for the three that you use the most), a pin
vice with a selection of drills from 0.5mm to 2.1mm plus a few larger sizes that you use regularly
(2.6mm for axle bearings etc), some square-nosed pliers and some very pointed-nosed ones,
preferably with smooth jaws. Buy cheap tools first and duplicate the most used ones with quality.
Try to complete all high-temperature soldering before attaching any of the cast whitemetal
parts. These can be attached with two-part epoxy resin such as Devcon or Araldite Rapid.
Ensure the surfaces to be glued are clean and free of grease.
Abetter alternative is to solder your white metal castings using Carrs 70 degree low melt solder
and Carrs red label white metal flux. The iron should be run at a much lower heat so that you do
not melt the castings. I have a domestic light dimmer switch and plug socket fixed to a piece of
wood, wired up with a lead and 3 amp mains plug to the input side of the dimmer switch and the
output of the dimmer switch into the plug socket (remember to continue the earth). Plug your 40
Watt iron (25 Watt iron won’t work) with a clean and freshly tinned bit into this and experiment
with adjusting the switch until you find the range of temperature at which the solder melts, but a
scrap casting does not. Note as the iron is running at a lower voltage it will take longer to heat
up, so when you think the adjustment is correct do check a few minutes later on another scrap
casting to see that it doesn't melt. Then scribe a mark on the switch knob to indicate this position.
When attaching white metal fittings to brass the surface of the brass must be tinned with 145°
solder, to allow the solder to grip. The surface of the casting at the joint should be burnished
bright. The casting can then be soldered into place with 70° solder and fillets of solder run into
any gaps with no risk of melting the casting.
Page 3

Page 4
Centre line
43mm
86mm
10mm 10mm
Lamp Holder Bung Stands Lamp Holder Rainstrips From Wire
ROOF AND COMPARTMENT DETAIL
SIX WHEELED ALL THIRD COACH

The prototype all third coaches were built by the
Somerset & Dorset Joint Railway and then passed into
Southern Railway ownership, Sample running number,
54.
S&DJR Coach Livery, Roof - light grey. Bodywork and
Solebars - Prussian blue with all panel edges lined in
gold. Axle guards, footboards, metalwork buffers etc -
black. Post 1912 the panel edges were lined in yellow
and solebars and ends were plain black. S&DJR transfers
are included on the HMRS Midland Railway coach sheet.
For other railway companies check reference books but
most six wheelers were finished in simple liveries in later
years. For example the LNER used plain coaching stock
brown bodywork with plain yellow lettering. Black
solebars and grey roof. A range of transfers for different
railways are available from the Historical Model Railway
Society, 8 Gilpin Green, Harpenden, Herts, AL5 5NR.
Page 5
20
5
5
4 2
3
1
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
9
8
7 6
17
18
12
14
15
11
13
10
16
Separate
Screw
Coupling
Etch
Parts 19.
Six Wheeled All Third Coach
Etched Parts Identification Numbers

7
6
5
5
1
1
11
10
12
Fill gap with
solder
File to get
good fit
SIX WHEELED COACH
MAIN BODY ASSEMBLY
This drawing shows NER four wheeled
saloon coach but main body construction
is the same for all coaches in the range.
6
END STEPS
Fit end steps
into slots from
inside before main
assembly.
3
2
Fit door hinges into
slots from the inside
with the longest
projecting from the
bottom slot.
DROPLIGHTS AND DOOR HINGES
Fit before main assembly
Page 6
9
8

SIX WHEELED ALL THIRD COACH ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
1. I prefer to add components to the sides and ends before assembling them into the body of
the coach. First take the sides (parts 1) and fold the top edge through 90 degrees (a set of simple
bending bars are recommended for all the long folds of the coach and this first fold is made by
clamping the side and folding the top edge). Then form the curved tumblehome at the bottom of
the coach side.
Forming the tumblehome is an easy operation but is something of a mental hurdle for many
modellers and puts them off starting a coach kit while they dream up complicated ways of doing it
involving jigs and formers. Its one of those jobs that once you have done it you can not believe
how easy it was and wonder why it frightened you for years.
I form the tumblehome using only a foot long off cut of 3/4” copper water pipe (most forming jobs
from cab roofs to loco smoke boxes are started with this pipe off cut). I work the coach side over
the pipe gently forming the tumblehome curve with my fingers and thumbs. I find it easier to work
with the pipe held in my hands rather than down on the bench and in this way I find that I can roll
the pipe underneath the side as I form the curve using pressure from my thumbs on the front
surface of the side. I form about a 2” length of the side at a time working from one end to the
other. I find it requires three stages to form the tumblehome. The first to put a rough curve along
the entire length of the side, the second to form the correct radius along the entire length. This
radius wants to be slightly tighter than the curve on the coach end so use a end as a guide to form
this radius at the two ends of the side and then match up the centre section by eye. The third
stage is to remove any slight irregularities and kinks by gently working with just fingers and
thumbs as you eye down the length of the side. Then clamp the bottom edge in the bending bars
and using a steel rule to help transfer the pressure evenly along the tumblehome, gently fold the
side through 90 degrees (the steel rule will help to prevent flattening out of the tumblehome curve
that you have just put so much effort into forming). When you make this bottom fold it will also
help to remove any last slight irregularities in the tumblehome curve. You will note that the bend
line for this fold is not a continues half etched line but has short full etch sections in it to reduce
the amount of pressure required to fold the side. Once you have assembled the sides and ends
and are happy with them you may wish to run a fillet of solder along the inside of the fold to
strengthen it. If you use plenty of flux some solder should flow through the full etch sections filling
any slight gaps that may be visible and then you can dress the bottom of the side with a flat file to
give a crisp outside edge. Don’t reinforce this fold before assembly of side and ends or you wont
be able to tweak any slight adjustments into the bottom strip to make it completely flat.
You should try to get the tumblehome curve as even as possible but if you go to a preserved
railway and look along the tumblehome of a wooden panelled coach you will be surprised at how
uneven they are.
2. Fit the droplights (parts 2) behind the door window openings. I place a droplight onto a piece
of 1”X1” wood and then place the coach side on top so that I can centre the window opening over
it and then fix it with a single tack of solder. I then turn the side over and solder the droplight firmly
to the rear of the side.
4
2
3
DROPLIGHTS
VENTILATORS
& HINGES
Fold up the door hinges (parts 3) and fit into the slots from the
rear with the longest projecting ones at the bottom. I hold them in
place with a knife point and using plenty of flux spot solder them.
Hopefully some solder will flow through and fill any gaps in the
slot around the hinge but if you only use a small amount of solder
it shouldn’t run up the door lines requiring a lot of scraping with a
knife blade to clear it.
Fit the door ventilators (parts 4) centrally into the top panels. I
tin the backs first and then holding them into place with a knife
point and using plenty of flux sweat them into place using only a
small amount of solder on the iron bit therefore requiring very
little cleaning up.
Page 7

3. Take the coach ends (parts 5) emboss the bolt
heads for the step plates and then fold the bottom to
form a U section to represent the ends of the buffer
beam. Fold up the steps (parts 6) and fit into the slots
from the inside. Use plenty of flux so that the solder
flows through the slots to fill any gaps. Fit the coupling
plates (parts 7) located over the coupling hook slot in
the buffer beam. I tinned the back of the plate and
sweated it into place to reduce the risk of solder filling
the slot.
Now assemble sides and ends together. The top and
bottom strips of the sides and the fold around ends of
the buffer beams will help with positioning. I place the
plain coach end onto a flat surface and locate a side
onto it tack soldering at the bottom strip joint. I repeat
for the second side and then fit the stepped end at the
other end to make up the box of the body. Check that
you are happy with the position of the parts and that it
looks as if the body will not be twisted. If required
adjust by resoldering the joints. Place the plain end
down again and run fillets of solder up the inside of the joints. Again work 1/3 at a time on
alternative sides (watch out for the ends bowing inwards with the heat) and then repeat for the
stepped end. Then dress the outside of the joints to give crisp square corners.
Page 8
4. Take the solebars (parts 8) and emboss the bolt heads. These bolt heads are designed to be
embossed using a scriber with the point rounded off slightly on an oilstone. Place the part, face
down, onto a block of softwood and then press the scriber point firmly down into the half etched
hole, this may distort the part slightly, so gently correct this by bending back with finger and thumb
pressure. If you have a rivet forming tool, particularly of the drop weight type, you should find this
ideal but as I like to make the half etched holes fairly generous to allow for scriber embossing go
gently until you get the feel for the amount of drop required.
Then fold the bottom of the solebar through 90 degrees. Solder the foot board brackets (parts 9)
to the face of the solebars (note the etched marks to help with location). These brackets fit level
with the top edge of the solebar but slightly short of the bottom edge (level with the top of the four
slots) to allow for fitting the footboard. Fit solebars locating in slots on underside of body, a little
filing at the ends may be necessary to get a good fit, and also solder well at the buffer beam joints
to hide any gaps.
Fit the top footboards (parts 10) locating into the four slots. It may be necessary to dress the
ends to get a snug fit around the buffer beam ends.
11
11
0.9mm brass wire
BOTTOM FOOTBOARDS
5. Take the bottom footboards
(parts 11) and fold the back edge
through 90 degrees. Then place along
the edge of two off cuts of 2”X1” wood
and fix in place with drawing pins.
Place the two pieces of wood opposite
each other, parallel and about 2”
apart. Solder across lengths of 0.9mm
brass wire located into the etched
grooves on the footboards. As the
footboards can be a little vulnerable to
damage I would suggest using 60/40
solder for these joints. Then snip the
wires down the centre to separate into
two footboards with hangers.

6. I now prefer to fit the lamp brackets (parts 12) and handrails. The central fold
on the brackets is a reverse fold and folds back upon itself. I reinforce the folds by
holding the bracket in a pair of long nosed pliers and flood the folds with flux. I then
touch the tip of the soldering iron loaded with a small spot of 60/40 solder to the side
of the bracket and the flux draws the solder into the folds. I then tin the backs of the
bracket with 145 degree solder, hold them in position with a knife point and sweat
them into place. Refer to drawings and illustrations for position but different railway
companies had different practices for the position and number of brackets so do a
little prototype research.
Handrails are made from 0.7mm brass wire. Clear the holes if necessary with a 0.75mm drill.
You may find a piece of thin card useful to help space the wire away from the body as you solder
it. Slightly annealing the wire with a cigarette lighter will help in forming the curved end handrails.
Now clamping the footboard at the wire joints in the jaws of a vice and fold the wires through 90
degrees. Try to make this fold as tight as possible. Then cut down the wires to 19mm from the top
surface of the footboard. If you cut a strip of card 19mm wide this will act as a template to get the
wires all the same length.
Run a 1mm drill through the holes in the solebars to clear them and then fit the footboards. The
footboard hanger wires should pass through the holes and touch the bottom strip of the coach
side. This should set the position of the footboard about level with the bottom of the cast axlebox.
Solder the wires with a good solder joint (again I use 60/40 solder for strength) into the holes. The
lengths of wire that project through the solebar will interfere with the fitting of the cast axleguards
later in the construction so snip them off once you are happy with the position of the footboards
LAMP
BRACKETS
Parts 12
Page 9
7. Fit the cast axle guards and wheel sets. My casting technology is not very sophisticated and
you will probably find that an amount of flash will require removing from between the W irons and
around the spring ends. I find that a number 10A pointed scalpel blade is best for this and you will
get the best results from using a new blade or two. Take four of the axle guards and drill out the
hole to 2.6mm diameter to take the brass axle bearing. Try to ensure that these holes are square
to the back of the axle guard. If you use the drill in a hand held pin vice (chuck) you can check for
squareness and make adjustments by applying a gentle sideways pressure as you drill out the
hole. The Holes should be slightly oversize with the bearings a lose fit.
I find that it is best to fit the two outer wheel sets first so slip a wheel set with the axle guards on
between the solebars as a dry run to check how they will fit. The axle guards should fit hard
against the lip of the solebar and should be square when viewed from the end. Check that they
are not being forced outwards by the axle (bottom of axle guard not sitting snug against the
solebar or bearing holes not deep enough) or sloping inwards (to much side play on the wheels,
about 1/2 mm side play is the maximum desirable). A small notch will have to be filed in the
casting to fit around a footboard support and they will also prevent the buffers from fully
depressing so you may wish to file a cut out at one end to clear the buffer retaining collar
Once you are happy with the dry
run and the fit of the axle guards
then fit the bearings with a small
blob of Evostick, slip wheel sets
with axle guards on between the
solebars and fix to the solebars
with a single tack of low melt
solder. Check that the axles are
parallel and the axle boxes are centred in the footboard cut outs (there are etched marks on the
underside of the coach body that are also useful to eye up on when positioning the axle guards).
Then place the coach on a flat surface to check that it sits down flat and doesn't rock on its
wheels. Check that the coach body is not twisted and then adjust two axle guards at opposite
corners by resoldering slightly downwards, when happy solder solid. As the Evostick takes a little
time to set you can make these adjustments to the axle guards and then leave the coach on a flat
surface for the glue to set.
File notch to clear footboard support
File back of plate to clear vee hanger

Once the Evostick has set in the outer axle guards you can fit the centre ones. Drill out the
bearing holes 2.7mm diameter (slightly oversize) and file the spring end plate slightly to clear the
vee hanger. To achieve maximum side play file down the pin point ends of the axle until the
bearing nearly touches the wheel centre. Fit wheels and axle guards with the bearings loose (no
glue) so that there is a little up and down movement in the wheel sets.
File to clear Vee Hanger Note maximum side play movement
Wheel just clears axle guard back
File notch to clear footboard support
If you wish file cut out
to clear buffer collar
0.7mm wire Strip to support vac cylinder
Page 10
The above illustration shows the underside of the brake 3rd coach but the all 3rd is the same with
the exception that the second vee hanger is fitted to a wider rectangular strip 2/3 of the way
across the coach and the brass rod is correspondingly shorter.
With this maximum side play on the centre wheels and slight up and down movement achieved
by the loose bearings. I find that I can propel this coach (admittedly at slow speed) through the
4’6” radius points on my layout with complete reliability and that the centre wheels quiet happily
rattle along over the humps, hollows and dodgy rail joints of my track work. But if you have tighter
curves or really bad track work you may wish to look at some of the inside bearing compensation
units that are produced by a number of the specialist component manufacturers.
15
14
15
13
1.6mm Brass Rod
File off
base of castings
Rectangular strip of
brass soldered across body
8. Fit one vee hanger (parts 13) into the slot
in the underside of the coach body and then
solder the rectangular strip of brass across the
inside of the coach. Fit second vee hanger with
folding base 2/3 way across the rectangular
plate. Fold up and tin the end of the vacuum
cylinder linkage (part 14). Cut a length of brass
rod 2mm longer than the distance between the
vee hangers and dress the ends square. Pass
the rod through one vee hanger, thread part 14
and the brake pull rod crank (part 15) onto the
rod and then solder the rod into the vee
hangers so that it projects through by 1mm.
Leave parts 14 and 15 to swing free. Trim off
the bases of the two cast supports and fit to the
vacuum cylinder so that it is set at a slight
angle. Solder cylinder into place on the brass
strip using the linkage (part 14) to help with
positioning. Then solder linkage to brass rod
and vacuum cylinder. Solder pull rod crank to
brass rod on coach centreline set about 10
degrees from vertical.

10. Drill out the buffer bodies with a
2.1mm drill to take the cast buffer head/
shank. Hold the drill in a hand pin vice
(chuck) and grip the buffer body between
finger and thumb. Drill through the body
from each end so that the hole breaks
through in the middle. Use a little spot of
spit on the end of the drill and this will help
prevent the drill wandering in the white
metal and breaking through the side of the
buffer. Then fit shank through buffer body,
snip off some of the narrow end of the shank to leave just over 1mm from the step, and solder a
retaining collar onto the shank. Open up holes in buffer beam slightly and fit buffers.
16
17
18
17
9. Solder the brake blocks (parts 16) to the
brake hangers (parts 17) remembering to make
up L/H and R/H sets. Fix brake hangers into slots
on underside of coach body so that they are just
clear of the wheel tread. I find that a miniature
electrical crocodile clip is useful to hold the brake
hanger for this operation. Spring the brake yokes
(parts 18) between the brake hangers and solder
so that the inside one runs slightly up from the
horizontal and the outside one slightly down from
the horizontal. Link the outside yokes back to the
pull rod crank at the vee hangers with 0.7mm
brass wire. On the prototype coach there was
quite a complicated arrangement of rocking links
around the yokes that I don't bother to model.
Retaining collar
Solder
Spring steel wire
BUFFER ASSEMBLY & SPRINGING
Page 11
Form up and
File Top Link
To Swing
Freely
Cast
Centre
11. Cosmetic screw coupling (parts 19). Solder both halves of each hook
together (you may wish to dress the hook with a flat file to achieve a more
prototypical profile) and if necessary round the slot so that the link will swing
freely and then using round-nosed pliers form the four links into U shapes. Dress
the tops of two links with a file so that they will pivot freely in the slot in the hooks.
Thread one of these links through the hook and spring the ends over the pegs on
the cast centre. Then fit the bottom link.
Pass the coupling hook through the slot in the buffer beam and retain it with a
length of spring wire. Polish the centre of this wire with emery cloth first so that
you can solder it to the coupling hook shank once you are happy that the buffers
spring freely.
Fit the cast vacuum brake pipes on the centreline of
the coach ends. Soldering at fixing bracket and buffer
beam.
Fold up ends of grab
handles (parts 20) and
reinforce folds with 60/40
solder. Solder into the two
holes (may require drilling
out) next to the doors. A
sliver of thin card between
may be helpful. Fit etched T
door handles into doors.

There are two grab handles above the end steps at the end of the
roof. Drill 0.75mm holes for these and make grab handles from
0.7mm brass wire. If you don't want to
glue the roof into place using Evostick
after painting (this glue joint can be
split with a knife blade if you ever need
to get inside the coach). You may wish
to fit some strips made from scrap
etch to the underside of the roof so
that it fits like an English snuff box lid.
12. I have passed the roof through rolling bars but it will probably require a little hand forming to
get the final shape. Work it with fingers and thumbs over a off cut of water pipe in a similar way to
the side tumblehome. Once happy with the shape mark out with reference to the main drawing
and drill holes for the lamp holders and bung stands. The lamp holder holes are a large diameter
and it is impractical to use a drill of this diameter as it will tend to tear the thin brass of the roof. I
would suggest drilling a 1mm pilot hole to mark the centre and then open this up with drills until
you reach a diameter at which it starts to snatch at the brass. Then switch to a tapered reamer
and continue opening the hole up to the correct diameter for the lamp holder.
Mark centre and end points of the rainstrips on the roof and fit 0.7mm wire to represent this. I
would recommend spot soldering a straight length of wire that is parallel to the roof edge at the
centre point first and then moving each end of the wire to the end point. Then holding into place
with a knife point spot solder the ends. The wire should have naturally formed an even curve.
Then using plenty of flux and holding with the knife point solder the entire length of wire to the
roof. Start at the end points and working short sections from alternative ends with the iron bit on
the inside of the curve work to the centre point. In this way you will reduce the tendency for the
wire to expand with the heat and by working on the inside of the curve any expansion should still
maintain an even curve.
Then fit lamp castings to roof. For daytime running fit bung into lamp holder and for night time fit
lamp into holder and bung into stand.
Lamp Holders
Lamps
Bung Stands
Bungs
OIL LAMP CATINGS
Lamps set up for night time
running with bung in stand.
Page 12
Also included on the etch are some small hooks that can be used in conjunction with fine chain
to represent the safety chains that some railways fitted either side of the coupling hook. There are
half etched marks on the inside of the buffer beams to mark their position.

13. Painting is a vast subject that cannot be covered fully here. The important thing with a metal
model is to get a good base coat of primer. Hopefully you have been cleaning up and washing the
model at the end of each modelling session, but it will still need thoroughly cleaning before
painting. I give my models a good scrub with a stiff-bristled paint brush in a sink full of hot water,
as hot as your hands can bear, and cheap washing up liquid (the expensive stuff that’s kind to
your hands has an oil in it that will stop the paint keying to the metal). If you know somebody who
works in catering and can scrounge you some industrial-strength liquid, this is better still. Then
rinse the model a couple of times in clean warm water and place in a dust-free box to dry. I use
car aerosol primer and Halfords grey primer is one of the best. For the best results you want to
spray at room temperature (25°C) on a dry day, avoid cold, damp or humid days. I find it helps to
warm the model to about 30°C (put it in the airing cupboard overnight) and I warm up the paint tin
by putting it onto a radiator (about 40°C, but use your common sense as I don’t want anybody
blowing themselves up). I find it best to prime the model in two light coats, about 15 minutes apart
and then leave for 48 hours to harden off (in the airing cupboard in a dust-free box).
I brush-paint my models with Humbrol enamel (you may wish to look at car aerosol paint for the
main body colour). For years I just stirred it up and painted straight from the tin but I was never
completely happy with the results. Recently two things have transformed my painting. The first
was a copy of Martyn Welch’s book, The Art of Weathering, Wild Swan Publications, ISBN 1
874103 11 9. Martyn’s basic techniques are very useful and almost foolproof. Martyn’s method of
mixing a little coarse talcum powder into the paint to give a slightly textured roof is particularly
effective. The second thing is to mix the paint in the tin and then transfer it to a palette (a sheet of
clean plasticard) with blobs of lighter and darker shades of paint surrounding the main colour.
Then work the paint with the brush on the palette, slightly varying the tones of the paint. This
seems to totally change the texture of the paint and the way it goes on and covers on the model.
Fit a floor made from the card that the etch was packed on. This is a good quality mount board
card and is very stable. I prefer to fit a card floor rather than brass or plastic as it tends to deaden
any tinny rattling noise as the coach is running giving a more prototypical rumble. Glaze the
windows using clear plastic sheet (you may wish to try model aircraft shops for this) glued into
place using Micro Sol Kristal Klear a PVA type adhesive beloved of aircraft modellers which
seems to stick glazing to any other material and as its name implies dries absolutely clear.
Then fit compartment partitions again made from the card. I prefer to paint the entire interior matt
black as I find that a fully detailed interior is hardly visible when running on a layout.
Glue the roof into place with Evostick, used as a contact adhesive following the manufacturers
instructions.
Prototype Reference, This coach was developed from an article in the July 1975 issue of Model
Railway Constructor.
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Tapered reamer & Fibreglass Scratch Brush
The use of these tools is mentioned in the instructions. These and most other general modelling
tools can be obtained from Squires Model and Craft Tools, 100 London Rd, Bognor Regis, West
Sussex, PO21 1DD, Tel [phone]. They do a free catalogue
and a very good mail order service.
The scratch brush is like a propelling pencil holder into which a
fibreglass refill is fitted and which will give a vigorous abrasive
action. I find this tool indispensable for cleaning up and removing
solder. One very useful tip is to soak the refills in dilute PVA glue
(Evostick resin W wood glue let down 50/50 with water and a spot
of washing up liquid) and then drill holes in a block of wood and
stick the ends of the refills in the holes while they harden off. This
will make the refills much more abrasive and longer lasting, and
also stops the fibres breaking off and ending up in your fingers.
You will need to give the refill a good rub to get it started but if you
use green label flux you will soon have plenty of rusty tools that
need cleaning.
I used a tapered reamer to open up the holes in the roof for the lamp holders. I find this tool
invaluable for building etched kits
Folding Bars
You will find a set of these very useful
and here are details of the set that I have
made for myself, in fact I have made three
sets of different sizes. T h e
dimensions or materials are not critical so
make yourself a set to suit the materials
you can get hold of. The important thing is
that you can clamp the part along its
entire length, with the etched fold line just
above the front bar. Then clamp the bars
in the jaws of your vice, a couple of 1” G
clamps are also useful for long folds, and
laying a steel rule at the back of the part to
help transfer the pressure from your
fingers evenly, pull forward to make the fold. Once the fold is close to 90° you can finish by
pressing down on it with a block of wood and moving the block along the fold with a stroking
action or by giving gentle taps with a small hammer on the wood block. Occasionally it is
necessary to emboss bolt heads onto a part before folding, by lining the face of one of the bars
with two or three layers of masking tape, you can still clamp the part without crushing the bolt
heads but you wont get such a tight fold, so deepen the fold line with a triangular file.
Can You Help Me?
If you have enjoyed building this kit and have been satisfied with the quality, I would be most
grateful if you could recommend it to your friends and fellow modellers. Although my kits are not
perfect, I try to put a lot of time and effort into producing them. If I can get extra sales of a kit
through customer’s personal recommendation and I find that word of mouth is the best form of
advertising. This will help me to put extra time and money into developing the next kit. Hopefully
this will give me more satisfied customer to recommend my kits to their friends.
If you are not happy with this kit then please tell me. Hopefully I will then be able to help and sort
out any problem.
TR0010
Tapered
Reamer
3mm – 12mm
12”