De Agostini Model Space IJN Akagi User manual

™
Akagi: Step by Step 201 Pack 7
Tools and materials
Wet and dry paper
Sandpaper
Glue
Superglue
Putty
Tweezers
Needle le
Knife
Double-sided tape
Masking tape
Metal primer
Paint brush
Gray paint
Matte black paint
White paint
Cardboard
Stick
Wood primer
Pencil
Making the side walls of the hangar tray: Step 1
Test-tting the tray: Step 2
1
2
Position the two grooved walls
as shown, using the lines
highlighted by the blue arrows
as a reference, and glue the
shorter square rods into place on
the grooves, aligning the back
edges of the two.
Test-t the hangar tray in place
as shown, between the central
and stern elevators. Align the
bow end with the stern side of
the central elevator and the aft
end with the bow side of the
stern elevator, making sure there
is a gap of 2 mm between the
outer edge and the wall of the
hangar. Make any adjustments
necessary to achieve the t.
Your parts
Hangar tray (oor)
Hangar tray (side wall) × 2
Square rod (long) × 10
Square rod (short) × 31
Door × 6
20-cm gun body × 2
20-cm gun barrel × 2
The 20-cm guns and stern hangar tray

™
Akagi: Step by Step 202
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kｌ
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Removing the burrs: Step 3
Wood primer: Step 4
Metal primer: Step 5
Paint: Step 6
Assembling the stern hangar tray: Steps 8-15
Remove any burrs on
the castings, likely to
occur in the red circled
areas, while avoiding
altering the shape of
the blue circled area.
Cover this section of the
gun body castings with
tape as before. Place on
cardboard with the
hangar plate and spray
with gray paint.
Hold the door castings, as
shown, and paint them white.
Remove the tape from the
gun castings and paint
the uncovered areas white.
Position the three pieces of the hangar as shown, using the red
dotted lines as reference for the position. Once positioned, mark
each section of wall in pencil with its identifying letter, then
separate the walls by cutting along the red dotted lines. Identify
where the dierent walls t by matching the letters.
Place the grooved hangar wall, hangar plate and the remaining
square rods onto cardboard and spray with wood primer.
Fix the castings and doors onto some cardboard and then spray
them with metal primer.
Test-t wall “b”against the edge of the plate as shown. The wall
should be ush with the side of the plate and the square rods
should be resting on the top side. If the wall doesn’t t within the
area it is meant to, sand the sides until it does and glue into place.
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3

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Akagi: Step by Step 203
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Finishing the hangar tray: Steps 16-17
Test-t and glue wall “d” in place.
Complete this side by testing and then gluing walls “g”, “f” and “e”
into place, in that order.
Identify any gaps between the walls and ll with either spare bits
of wood or with putty for smaller gaps.
Test-t and glue into place walls“a”and “c,”on either side of wall “b.”
Test-t walls “h,”“i” and “j” in place. You will need to shape the
edges to diagonals to achieve a better t (inset). Glue into place. Tape up the sides of the assembly, as with the assembly on page
199, turn upside down and spray with gray paint.
Test-t and shape the edges of walls “k” and “l,” then glue into place.
Touch up any of the gaps you lled, or any other areas of wood
where you can see the white paint, to match the rest of the walls.
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11

™
Akagi: Step by Step 204
Stern hangar tray
20-cm guns
Fitting the pillars: Step 18
Fitting the doors: Steps 19-20
Fitting the tray: Step 21
Finishing the 20-cm guns: Step 22
As shown in the photo on
the far left, glue two of the
longer square rods together,
back to back. Glue the
remaining eight rods
together in the same way so
that you have ve joined
pairs. Then, using the photo,
near left, identify the places
in which to glue them,
aligning the inside edge with
the midpoint of the joined
square rods (inset).
Separate the doors from
the sprues. Glue three of
them into place in the
positions shown in the
photo, with the window
depressions topmost.
Glue the gun barrels into the body. Then paint the ends of the
barrels black.
Use the photo to identify the positions of the remaining three
doors, and glue them into place.
Temporarily t the hangar tray assembly into place.
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Assembled
Parts

™
Akagi: Step by Step 205
Making the side wall of the hangar tray: Steps 1-2 Test-tting the hangar tray: Step 3
The 20-cm guns and bow hangar tray
1
2
Position the grooved hangar wall as shown. Note that the sides
should curve down slightly.
Glue the shorter square rods into place on the grooves, aligning
the back edges.
Use the dotted lines to position the hangar oor correctly, with
the steeper slope at the top. Test-t the hangar oor in the space
in front of the bow elevator, aligning the stern side with the bow
side of the elevator and making sure that there is a gap of at least
2 mm around the edge. Make any adjustments necessary to
achieve this t.
3
Tools and materials
Wet and dry paper
Sandpaper
Glue
Superglue
Putty
Tweezers
Needle le
Knife
Double-sided tape
Masking tape
Metal primer
Paint brush
Gray paint
Matte black paint
White paint
Cardboard
Stick
Wood primer
Your parts
Hangar tray (oor)
Hangar tray (side wall)
Square rod (long) × 8
Square rod (short) × 8
20-cm gun body × 2
20-cm gun barrel × 2

™
Akagi: Step by Step 206
Removing the burrs: Step 4
Wood primer: Step 5
Assembling the 20-cm guns: Step 9
Metal primer: Step 6
Paint: Steps 7-8
Remove any burrs on the
castings, which are likely to
occur in the red circled areas,
while avoiding altering the
shape of the blue circled area.
Cover this section of the gun body
castings with tape as before (inset). Place
on cardboard with the stern hangar wall
from page 172 and the hangar oor and
spray with gray paint. Then place the hull
onto cardboard, remove the temporarily
tted hangar assemblies from either side
of the stern elevator, and cover all the
hangar assembly, left, with paper, as
shown. Spray the area circled in red on
either side of the hull with gray paint.
Paint the inside of the tray wall and
the uncovered area of the gun
body casting with white paint.
Place the hangar oor, grooved hangar wall and remaining square
rods on some cardboard and spray with wood primer.
Spray the gun castings with metal primer. Glue the gun barrels into the body. Then paint the end of the
barrels black.
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9

™
Akagi: Step by Step 207
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Installing the 20-cm guns: Steps 10-12
Fitting the hangars and hangar wall: Steps 13-15
Asesembling the bow hangar tray: Steps 16-18
Gather together
the six 20-cm guns.
Paint the projection on
the underside of one of
them white (circled).
Position the hull as shown and mark the mid point between the two
sides of the stern hangar ooring, as in the top photo. Then mark
the mid point on the stern hangar wall, as in the bottom photo.
Position the hull as shown and apply glue to the stern edges of
the hangar, on the port and starboard sides. Don’t be concerned
about any steps at the sides as they will be addressed later.
Before the paint dries, position the gun in one of
the circular recesses of the stern frames and push
down gently. Remove the gun from the recess and
a white mark should be left behind. Using the 2 mm
drill bit, create a hole where the mark is.
Apply adhesive to the projection on the underside of the gun and
t it into place on the hole drilled in the last step. Repeat Steps
10-12 for the ve remaining 20-cm guns, tting three on each
side of the hull.
Ret the two stern hangar assemblies to check that the t is still
correct, then glue into place.
Position the hangar oor as it was in Step 3 and place the grooved
hangar wall as shown. Identify the walls and their placement
around the hangar oor. Cut along the red dotted lines to
separate the walls.
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™
Akagi: Step by Step 208
Bow hangar tray
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11 10 10 10
2 2 2 2 12 1266
35
70
2 2 2 2
Unit=mm
20-cm guns
Finishing the tray: Step 19
Fitting the square rods: Steps 20-22
Fitting the hangar tray: Step 23
Glue the walls “a” and “c” into their places on the hangar oor,
with the square rods resting on the oor and the left edges of all
three aligned.
Tape up the open end of the hangar tray assembly, turn upside
down and spray with gray paint. Once the paint has dried, hand
paint any areas that were missed.
Glue wall “b” into place up against the hangar oor, between
walls “a” and “c.” Once dry, sand the back surface so that the walls
are ush.
Get two pieces of paper, one 70 mm wide, the other around
50 mm wide, and mark the points in the photograph on the
pieces of paper.
Temporarily t the bow hangar tray in place, as shown.
Glue square rods into place on the aft wall of the bow hangar and
the starboard wall, in line with the marks drawn in the last step.
Place the papers from the last step into the area behind the bow
hangar and transfer the marks onto their respective sides (the
starboard side and aft of the bow hangar).
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Assembled
Parts
Starboard side Bow hangar side

™
Akagi: Step by Step 209
Removing the burrs: Steps 1-2
Paint: Step 3
The bow elevator
Your parts
Gear (a)
Ring
Gear (b)
Foundation (a)
Foundation (b)
Motor (a)
Motor (b)
Pulleys × 48
Weights × 8
Motor (c)
Drum × 2
Thread
12
Position the drum as shown and smooth the three horizontal
surfaces with a le.
Identify the burrs on these castings, highlighted by the red circles
or red arrows, and remove them with wet and dry paper. Be
careful when smoothing the burrs not to change the shape of
the blue circled areas as these are used during assembly.
Position all the castings onto cardboard and spray with metal
primer. When dry, spray again with gray paint.
3
Tools and materials
Wet and dry paper
Superglue
Putty
Tweezers
Needle le
Knife
Double-sided tape
Masking tape
Metal primer
Paint brush
Gray paint
Ruler
Cardboard
Pin
Wood primer

™
Akagi: Step by Step 210
Assembling the elevator components: Steps 4-24
Hold one of the weights
with the two small
projections facing up. Apply
a small amount of glue to
this area and glue into place
on one of the 40 mm
lengths of thread. Repeat
for the seven other weights.
Glue these two castings together, then place the projections of
the foundation into the holes at the bottom of motor (b).
Test-t the assembly from the last step into the hole at the side of
motor (a), make any adjustment to the projection or hole as
necessary and glue into place. Then glue gear (a) onto the
projection on the front of motor (a).
Now, glue motor (c) onto foundation (a) in the position shown.
Unravel the thread and lay it down so it can’t tangle. When cutting
into lengths, hold it taut. Cut into twelve 140 mm lengths and
twelve 40 mm lengths.
Hold the drum as shown and glue one 140 mm length of thread
in place between each of the discs.
Using the inset as a guide, wind each thread
around the drum twice, adding a little glue
to hold it in its nal position as shown in
the inset.
As in the previous two steps, use the inset
diagram as a guide and wind a further three
140 mm lengths of thread around the drum,
in the opposite direction.
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Akagi: Step by Step 211
Position the motor assembly as shown, to test-t, joining the two
gears together and placing it at a right angle to the drums. Glue
into place.
Print this page if you haven’t already. Cut out this diagram.
As illustrated in the photo, take the thread and follow the red line,
positioning it around the two pulleys. Glue it into place at the
point where the elevator oor meets the wall.
Position the cut-out from Step 13 at the base of the bow elevator.
Use a pin to mark the center point of each of the crosses and the
line running from bow to stern on the oor of the elevator. Then
remove the paper and glue a pulley to each mark that you made
with the pin.
Glue the two drums in place, aligning them along the line in the
center of the bow elevator, the drum with the gear and ring being
glued to the stern side and the one without them to the bow side.
Make sure that none of the thread gets stuck under the drums.
Use the red lines as a guide to the positions of the remaining
lengths of thread. Glue them all to the points where the elevator
oor meets the wall.
Glue gear (b), followed by the ring, onto the end of one of the
drums as shown. Once dry, le so that they are all aligned.
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Port Starboard

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Akagi: Step by Step 212
Bow elevator
25 mm
Once the pulleys have dried
in place, glue the threads in
position along the center of
each channel, to end about
2 mm under the top edge of
the elevator wall. Then glue
another pulley at the top of
each channel, covering the
ends of the threads.
Holding the thread with one hand, place another pulley at the
base of the elevator in between the lengths of wood. Try to
position the thread in the sunken central area of the pulley and
glue it into place. Repeat for the rest of the threads.
Cut the loose lengths of thread from the tops of the weights so
they are no more than 3 mm above the top of the elevator walls,
then tuck the ends down behind the pulleys, and glue.
Glue a 40 mm length of thread 1 mm deep into each of the end
channels. Glue the other end to the thread in the channel, about
10 mm down from the pulley.
Test-t the second motor assembly as shown, trying to position
the cylindrical projection into the hole of the motor assembly that
you tted in Step 16. If it does not t, do not force it, just glue it
into place.
Place some tape over the channels of the elevator at 25 mm below
the top edge. Glue four weights into the four middle channels,
resting at that height.
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Assembled
Parts

™
Akagi: Step by Step 213
Removing the burrs: Steps 1-2
Paint: Step 3
The central elevator
12
3
Your parts
Gear (a)
Ring
Gear (b)
Foundation (a)
Foundation (b)
Motor (a)
Motor (b)
Pulleys × 48
Weights × 8
Motor (c)
Drum × 2
Thread
Position the drum as shown and smooth the three horizontal
surfaces with a le.
Identify any burrs on these castings, highlighted by the red circles
or red arrows, and remove them with wet and dry paper. Be
careful not to distort the points circled in blue, as these are used
during assembly.
Lay all the castings on cardboard and spray with metal primer.
When dry, spray again with gray paint.
Tools and materials
Wet and dry paper
Superglue
Putty
Tweezers
Needle le
Knife
Double-sided tape
Masking tape
Metal primer
Paint brush
Gray paint
Ruler
Cardboard
Pin
Wood primer

™
Akagi: Step by Step 214
Assembling the elevator components: Steps 4-23
5
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7
8
4
9
10
11
Hold one of the weights
with the two small
projections facing up. Apply
a small amount of glue to
this area and glue into place
on of the 40 mm lengths of
thread. Repeat for the seven
other weights.
Glue these two castings together, and t the projections of the
foundation into the holes at the bottom of the motor (b).
Test-t the assembly from the last step into the hole at the side of
motor (a), making any adjustment to the projection or hole as
necessary, and glue into place. Then glue gear (a) onto the
projection on the front of motor (a).
Now glue motor (c) onto foundation (a) in the position shown.
Unravel the thread and lay it down so it can’t tangle. Hold it taut
and cut twelve 140 mm lengths and twelve 40 mm lengths.
Hold the drum as shown, and glue one 140 mm length of thread
in place between each of the discs.
Using the inset as a guide, wind each thread
around the drum twice, adding a little glue
to hold it in its nal position as shown in
the inset.
As in the previous two steps, wind a further
three 140 mm lengths of threads around the
drum, going in the opposite direction.

™
Akagi: Step by Step 215
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16
17
Test-t the motor assembly as shown, meshing the two gears
together and placing the motor at a right angle to the drums.
Then glue it into place.
Print this page if you haven’t done so already. Cut out the diagram
above, which you will use as a pattern.
Position the cut-out from Step 13 at the base of the bow elevator.
Use a pin to mark the center point of each of the crosses and the
line running from bow to stern on the oor of the elevator. Then
remove the paper and glue a pulley to each mark that you made
with the pin.
Glue the two drums in place, aligning them along the line in the
center of the bow elevator, the drum with the gear and ring being
glued to the stern side and the one without them to the bow side.
Make sure that none of the thread gets stuck under the drums.
Use the red lines as a guide to position the lengths of thread,
running them around the two pulleys. Glue them all to the points
where the elevator oor meets the wall.
Glue gear (b), followed by the ring, onto the end of one of the
drums as shown. Once dry, le the mountings so that they are
all aligned.

™
Akagi: Step by Step 216
Central elevator
25 mm
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19
18
Assembled
Parts
Once the pulleys have been
glued in place, glue the
threads up the center of each
slot, to end about 2 mm under
the top edge of the elevator
wall. Then glue another
pulley at the top of each
channel, covering the ends
of the threads.
Holding each thread in position, place another pulley on top of it
at the base of the elevator and between the vertical strips of
wood. Position the thread in the channel around the pulley and
glue the pulley into place. Repeat for the rest of the threads.
Cut the loose lengths of thread from the tops of the weights so
they are no more than 3 mm above the tops of the elevator walls,
then tuck the ends down behind the pulleys and glue into place.
Glue a 40 mm length of thread 1 mm deep into each of the end
channels. Glue the other end to the thread in the channel, about
10 mm down from the pulley.
Test-t the second motor assembly as shown, trying to position
the cylindrical projection into the hole of the motor assembly that
you positioned in Step 16. If it does not t, do not force it, just
make sure the two assemblies are aligned with each other.
Place some tape over the channels of the elevator at 25mm below
the top edge. Glue four weights into the four middle channels,
resting at that height.

™
Akagi: Step by Step 217
Removing the burrs: Steps 1-2
Assembling the parts: Steps 3-4
The stern elevator
Your parts
Gear (a)
Ring
Gear (b)
Mount (a)
Mount (b)
Motor (a)
Motor (b)
Pulleys × 48
Weights × 8
Motor (c)
Drum × 2
Thread
Wooden strip
12
Position the drum as shown and atten the three horizontal
surfaces with a le.
Locate any burrs on these castings, highlighted by the red circles
or red arrows, and remove them with wet and dry paper. Be
careful when smoothing the burrs not to change the shape of
the blue circled areas as these are used during assembly.
Cut the wooden strip in two and glue both pieces to the base of
motor casting (a). Remove any excess wood, leaving 0.5 mm
around the edge of the casting.
3
Tools and materials
Wet and dry paper
Superglue
Tweezers
Needle le
Knife
Double-sided tape
Masking tape
Metal primer
Gray paint
Cardboard
Stick

™
Akagi: Step by Step 218
Painting: Step 5
Assembling the elevator components: Steps 6-13
Hold one of the weights
with the two small
projections facing up.
Apply a small amount
of glue to this area, and
x the end of one of the
40 mm lengths of thread
to it. Repeat for the seven
other weights.
Glue these two castings together. Try to position the motor in the
center of the base – you may need to le the projections on the
base to achieve the correct t.
Unravel the thread and lay it down so it can’t tangle. When cutting
into lengths, hold it taut. Cut into twelve 140 mm lengths and
eight 40 mm lengths.
Position all the castings onto cardboard and spray with metal
primer. When dry, spray again, with gray paint.
Hold the drum as shown and glue one 140 mm length of thread
into place in the middle of each pair of discs.
Test-t the assembly from the last step into the hole at the side of
motor (a), making any adjustment to the projection or hole as
necessary, and glue into place. Then, glue gear (a) onto the
projection on the front of motor (a).
Now, glue motor (c) onto mount (a) in the position shown.
Using the inset as a guide, wind each thread
around the drum twice, adding a little glue to
hold it in its nal position as shown in the inset.
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4
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11

™
Akagi: Step by Step 219
As in the previous two steps, and using the
inset diagram as a guide, wind a further
three 140 mm lengths of thread around
the drum, in the opposite direction.
Glue the two drums in place, aligning them along the line in the
center of the bow elevator. Glue the drum with the gear and ring
to the stern side and the one without to the bow side. Make sure
that none of the threads get stuck under the drums.
Glue gear (B), followed by the ring, onto the end of one of the
drums, as shown. Once dry, le so that they are all aligned.
Print this page if you haven’t done so already.
Cut out this rectangle.
Position the cut-out from Step 14 at the base of the bow elevator.
Using a pin, mark the center points of each of the crosses and the
line running from bow to stern on the oor of the elevator. Then
remove the paper and glue a pulley to each of the marks that
corresponds with a cross.
Use the red lines as a guide to the positions of the remaining
lengths of thread. Glue them all to the points where the elevator
oor meets the wall. You may have to bypass the pulley circled in
blue if it is under the motor assembly.
Test-t the motor assembly as shown, joining the two gears
together and placing it at a right angle to the drums. Glue it
into place.
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18
Port
Starboard
Assembling the elevator: Steps 14-24
14

™
Akagi: Step by Step 220
Stern elevator
25 mm
Once the pulleys have
dried in place, glue the
threads in place along
the center of each
channel, to stop about
2 mm under the top
edge of the elevator
wall. Then, glue another
pulley at the top of each
channel, covering the
ends of the threads.
Holding the thread with one hand, place another pulley at the
base of the elevator in between the lengths of wood. Try to
position the thread in the sunken central area of the pulley and
glue it into place. Repeat for the rest of the threads.
Cut the loose lengths of thread from the tops of the weights, so
they are no more than 3 mm above the top of the elevator wall.
Tuck the ends down behind the pulleys, and glue into place.
Glue a 40 mm length of thread 1 mm deep into each of the end
channels. Glue the other end to the thread in the channel, about
10 mm down from the pulley.
Test-t the second motor assembly as shown. Try to position the
cylindrical projection into the hole of the motor assembly tted
in Step 17, but if it does not t, do not force it.
Place some tape over the channels of the elevator at 25 mm below
the top edge. Glue four weights into the four middle channels so
they rest at that height.
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23
19
Assembled
Parts