De Agostini MODEL SPACE SUZUKI GSX 1300R HAYABUSA User manual

25
Pack 07
HAYABUSA
SUZUKI GSX 1300R
TM

67
SUZUKI GSX 1300R HAYABUSA
CONTENTS
TM
www.model-space.com
Stage 21: The front side reectors and steering damper
Stage 22: The rear wheel balance weight
Stage 23: The rear tyre
Stage 24: The rear brake disc and rear sprocket
Page
68
71
73
Assembly Guide
75
Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, 39-41 North Road, London N7 9DP.
Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios 2,
82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE.
Published in the USA by De Agostini Publishing USA, Inc., 915 Broadway,
Suite 609, New York, NY 10010.
All rights reserved © 2014
Not suitable for children under the age of 14.
is product is not a toy and is not designed or intended for use in play.

68
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
STAGE 21 Area you are working on Detail
The front side
reectors and
steering damper
Tools Prepare Useful to have
Phillips screwdriver (Stage 7)
Cross wrench
Tweezers
Front fork assembly (Stage 9)
Masking tape
Plastic bag
Pen
Multi-purpose adhesive
Your parts
The steering damper is a device for
absorbing vibrations in the steering
that occur during running. The impact
from the road surface is absorbed by
the suspension forks, but without the
steering damper, any impact to the
steering system would be transmitted
directly to the rider. Mounting a
shock absorber on the axis of rotation
of the front forks prevents this. The
steering damper is reproduced on the
model, showing the attention to detail
achieved with your Suzuki Hayabusa.
Prepare the
front fork
assembly from
Stage 9. Use the cross wrench to
loosen and remove the 2.3 × 8mm
hex screws from either side of the
front forks (circled).
1
Adhesive sheet
Steering damper case
Damper shaft
Front left reector mount
Front right reector mount
Front reectors × 2
2 × 11mm lag screws × 2
M2 nuts × 2
2.3 × 6mm screws × 12
Peel away the backing from the adhesive
sheet, leaving the two adhesive discs
intact, as shown in the inset.
2

69
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
Push the reector into the recessed
area, making sure it is secure.
Place the back of one reector into
the recessed circle of one of the
reector mounts.
Place the hole in the left reector
mount over the hole in the left fork
from which the 2.3 × 8mm screw
was removed in Step 1.
Remove one of the discs from the
adhesive sheet and place it onto
the back (silver side) of one of
the reectors. Repeat this for the
second reector. Then remove the
backing from the adhesive disc.
Repeat this process with the second
reector and reector mount.
5
4
7
3
6
Left Right
Align the area around the hole
of the reector mount with the
recessed section of the bracket at
the end of the fork.
8
Use the cross wrench to tighten the
2.3 × 8mm screw into place.
Align the holes and insert the 2.3 ×
8mm screw removed in Step 1.
10
9
Turn the front forks over and x the
right reector mount in place.
11
Insert one of the 2 × 11mm lag
screws into the hole at the end of the
damper shaft, as shown.
12

70
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
Insert the end of the lag screw into
the hole projecting forward on the
bottom yoke. Place an M2 nut over the end of
the screw.
13
14
Place the end of the damper case with
the projecting hole over the end of the
damper shaft.
Wrap some masking tape around the
steering damper shaft, to temporarily hold
the case in place.
Move the damper shaft back and
forth, to conrm that the screw is
secure and to make sure that the
shaft isn't too loose at the screw.
Hold the nut against the end of the
screw, then tighten the screw into
the nut with a screwdriver.
Check that the damper case moves
smoothly along the shaft. If it doesn't,
remove it from the shaft and check the
holes at either end, as there may be a
blockage. Use the end of some tweezers
to try and open the hole.
If the damper shaft is loose, apply
a tiny amount of multi-purpose
adhesive to the end of the screw,
by the nut, to hold them together.
This stage is now complete.
Store any leftover parts, along
with the unused 2.3 × 6mm
screws, in a plastic bag labelled
with this stage’s number.
18 20
16
15
19
17
Stage
complete!

71
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
STAGE 22
Area you are working on Detail
The rear wheel
balance weight
Rear wheel
Double-sided tape
Balance weights × 5
Tools Prepare
Tweezers Plastic bag
Pen
Your parts
Like the front wheel, the rear wheel
of the Hayabusa is a hollow structure
made of aluminium alloy, which oers
sucient strength and rigidity while
being much lighter than steel. This
also meant that the wheels cost less to
produce, which helped to make this
bike more aordable. In this series, the
wheels are die-cast with an emphasis
on how they look. This means that they
are overweight for the scale, but they
closely match the style and texture of
the actual motorcycle’s wheels.
Peel o one of the tabs of double-sided
tape from the strip.
Place it into the recessed area of one of
the balance weights.
1
2

72
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
This stage is now complete. Two
balance weights have been xed to the
inside of the rear wheel. Usually, up to
three would be tted on the real bike,
so you can add another one if it is to
your liking. Store the leftover balance
weights safely in a labelled plastic bag.
You can x the balance weight to any point on the inside
of the wheel, but generally it would be placed opposite the
valve.
Press down on the second weight to secure it.
Prepare another balance weight and x it next to the rst.
Press down on the weight to make sure the double-sided
tape is securely stuck to the wheel.
3
6
5
4
Valve
Stage
complete!

73
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
STAGE 23
Area you are working on
Detail
The rear tyre
Rear tyre
Prepare
Rear wheel (Stage 22)
Plastic bag
Toothbrush
Your parts
As with the front tyre, the rear tyre was
a newly designed, state-of-the-art piece,
developed to deal with the speeds the
Hayabusa could achieve. It was designed
with the expertise that came from the
motorcycle racing world. The model’s tyre
is made from hollow rubber, and, together
with the wheel, it accurately replicates
the real thing.
Soften the rubber of the rear tyre by
twisting it with your hands.
Use a toothbrush to clean any dirt or
remaining dust left over from the casting
process from the surface of the tyre.
1
2

74
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
This stage is now complete. You will be using the wheel in the
next stage, so don’t store it away yet.
Prepare the rear wheel from Stage 22. Look at the photo
above, and the tip box on the right, to see the correct
orientation for both the wheel and the tyre.
When one side of the tyre is properly positioned on the
wheel, turn them around and repeat the process to t
the other side of the tyre.
Fit the rear wheel into the tyre, lifting the wall of the tyre
over the rim of the wheel and rotating the assembly as
you work.
Rotate the assembly when nished, to check that the
wheel and tyre are properly tted together.
3
5
4
6
Unlike the front wheel and tyre, the rear wheel and tyre
have to be tted the correct way round. The assembly
in the photo above shows the tyre from the front, with
some of the left side of the wheel showing. Ensure that
the tread pattern is correctly orientated when you t
the tyre to the wheel.
Direction of travel
(front)
Stage
complete!
When viewed from
the front, the tread
pattern is a staggered
V-shape (blue lines).
The side of the
wheel with a
large hole is the
left side.
Tip

75
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
STAGE 24
Area you are working on
Detail
The rear brake
disc and rear
sprocket
Prepare
Rear wheel (Stage 23)
Plastic bag
Small plastic container (larger than the rear sprocket)
Dishwashing detergent
Metal primer
Toothbrush
Metal polish/cloth
Cotton swab
Your parts
The drive chain rotates the rear
sprocket mounted on the rear wheel.
Inevitably, this part of the bike gets
dirty, and to replicate this on the die-
cast sprocket of the model, you can
make its surface corrode and appear
dirty, making the model seem more
realistic and used. You can, of course,
choose simply to leave the sprocket
clean, making the bike appear new.
Rear sprocket
Rear brake disc
Take the rear sprocket, a toothbrush and a
small container with water and detergent
in it. The sprocket will come covered in
an oily lm which over time will generate
rust, you need to remove the oil before
proceeding. If you want your model to
look like a new and unused bike, you can
leave the sprocket clean. Scrub o the oil
from the surface of the sprocket, using the
toothbrush and soapy water.
Empty the soapy water from the container,
then ll it with clean water. Rinse the rear
sprocket in the water to clean away the oil
and detergent.
1
2

76
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
Shown above are a clean ‘new’ sprocket
(left) and a corroded ‘used’ sprocket (right).
You can use water to cause the corrosion,
or use the faster method of a salt solution
or vinegar. Whichever method you choose,
make sure that you check the surface
frequently, and remove the sprocket
when you have achieved the desired level
of corrosion. Make sure that you wash it
thoroughly afterwards.
Polish the raised details, such as the
heads of the bolts, with a cotton swab.
Apply the metal polish to both sides of the
sprocket’s teeth, and wipe them with a
cloth to clean o the corrosion. Repeat as
many times as you want, until you achieve
the desired nish.
When you are nished polishing the rear
sprocket, it’s a good idea to spray it with a
clear metal primer. This will preserve and
protect its surface. Place the sprocket on some cardboard, and
spray it with the metal primer from about
25cm away. Move the spray back and forth
over the sprocket, never focusing on just
one area. When one side is done, turn the
sprocket over and spray the other side.
This is an example of a nished ‘used’
rear sprocket. This level of realism could
not easily have been achieved by using
paint. Use a toothbrush or cotton swab to
remove any unwanted residue left over
from the polishing process.
3
6
5
8
97
Corrosion can be triggered relatively
easily on the die-cast metal used to make
the sprocket. You can use water, which
to get the ‘used’ eect shown on the
right could take a few days to achieve.
Alternatively, you can speed up the
process by using a salt solution
or vinegar.
4
‘New’ ‘Used’
After treating the sprocket to corrode the
surface, make it more realistic by polishing
the teeth, which on a real bike would be
kept clean by the chain. First, you will need
a cloth and some metal polish.
Tip

77
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
Place the sprocket onto the side of
the wheel, keeping the cutout and the
projection aligned. Try turning the sprocket from side to
side (red arrows). If it doesn't move, it is
correctly seated. If it does, remove it and
check that the cutout on the sprocket ts
properly over the projection on the hub. If
not, you may need to widen the cutout or
reduce the size of the projection. Do this
very carefully, using a suitable small le.
13
14
This stage is now complete.
Keep the rear wheel in a plastic
bag, as the sprocket is not yet
fully secured.
Place the three pins into the corresponding holes, and push
them into place.
Turn the wheel around and locate the small projection on
the hub and the small cutout in the ridge of the sprocket
(both circled).
To t the brake disc to the rear wheel, rst line up the three
pins on the inside of the disc with the three holes on the
right-hand side of the hub, into which they will t.
11
1210
Stage
complete!

144
SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide
TM