De Agostini Model Space HUMMER H1 User manual

HUMMER H1: STEP BY STEP ™
205
Stage 45
The battery box and power
switch – an overview
Your parts
Aerial tube
Battery box
Power switch

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The battery box and power switch is located inside the radio box, which
will be tted to the base of the chassis in coming stages. The box is
pictured open here, but during operation is sealed shut using body pins.
This is to prevent dust and dirt getting inside the components, which can
aect the operation of the parts.
This is the aerial, pictured in its position in the centre of the chassis
with the body frame and panels removed. The length of the wire
will be cut depending on the radio frequency used by the remote
control, but should not be so long that it is folded up, as this will
disturb the signal.
From the front, you can get
an idea of how the aerial
will reach up to the roof
and curve over. This means
that, unlike most RC cars, it
isn’t necessary to cut a hole
in the roof for the aerial.
Fitting the body frame and
panels is straightforward.
Simply lower over the chassis
and aerial carefully, then clip
into place with pins, ready for
action.
Whatever length the aerial is cut to, it will be taller than the roof of
the body panels. This is not an issue, as the soft resin tubing of the
aerial will bend suciently to t inside the body.
The power switch and battery box
The aerial
22
The power supply in your Hummer H1 uses alkaline AA
batteries. It is useful to acquire a battery power checker like the
one in the photo above, to check the power level before tting
replacement batteries.

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Radio box upper and lower (temporarily assembled)
Radio box lid (temporarily assembled)
3 × 10mm binding-head self-tapping screws × 14
3 × 8mm self-tapping screws × 5
3 × 10mm self-tapping screw
2 × 8mm self-tapping screw
3 × 3mm set screws x 3
Body pins × 2
Steering rod
Brake rod
Throttle linkage rod
Throttle ball end
Throttle spring
2mm stoppers × 2
Linkage base
Brake collar
Radio box collars × 2
2mm washer
Mounting the radio box
Your parts
Tools and
materials
Phillips screwdriver
Main chassis assembly (Stage 44)
Pen
Plastic bag
Stage 46

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Lay out the parts and make a note of which is which. To the
bottom left (1) is the box upper, at the top is the box lower (2)
and to the bottom right (3) is the lid. Also make a note of their
orientation, as this is the position in which they will be tted
onto the chassis.
Remove the cellophane tape holding together the parts that
make up the radio box.
Line up the radio box lower with the six holes circled on the
surface of the chassis. The hole circled in blue marks the hole
through which you will t the 3 × 10mm self-tapping screw.
Inspect the underside of the radio box upper. There are four sets
of screw holes lining the rectangular openings. These will be
used in the coming steps.
Tighten the screw with a screwdriver.When the projections on the underside of the radio box are
lined up with the six holes circled in Step 4, begin inserting
the 3 × 8mm self-tapping screws, starting with the two central
holes circled above. Place the screw into the hole nearest the
front rst.
Front Back
1
2
3

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Next, t and tighten the second 3 × 8mm
self-tapping screw into the adjacent hole.
Place the 3 × 10mm self-tapping screw into
the hole that sits on the joint between the
chassis’s main and rear plates. This was the
hole marked in blue in Step 4.
Fit the remaining 3 × 8mm self-tapping
screws into the last three holes that were
marked in Step 4. Tighten each fully with
a screwdriver.
This stage is complete. Be sure to keep all
the unused parts in a plastic bag safely,
marked for reference.
Sealing the radio box
The radio box tted inside your RC Hummer H1 is dierent to that
of most radio-controlled cars. Due the heavier, o-road nature
of its use, your Hummer’s radio box requires a considerable
amount of protection. As such , the radio box is designed and
tted in such a way that it is able to operate under even the
most ambitious driver. Firstly, the radio box itself is made of thick
impact-resistant plastic, moulded to provide excellent protection
from dust and water. To achieve this, a high step has been
moulded along the edges of the upper and lower box sections
(see photo below left). Then, the box is tted several millimetres
above the chassis base, rather than on it, so that the box receives
fewer of the vibrations or jolts experienced by the rest of the
chassis, as these can aect the smooth running of the radio
control components within the box.
The joint between the edges of the radio
box’s upper and lower sections features
a high step to prevent dust particles or
water entering.
It is possible to run your Hummer H1
through puddles, as the crucial radio box
is so well sealed and protected.
The chassis and components stripped
of the body casing after driving through
water. It is advised that the model be
cleaned thoroughly after use.
Assembled parts

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Steering servo (KS-302DS)
Servo horn
2.6 × 10mm servo horn screw
Installing the steering servo
Your parts
Tools and
materials
Philllips screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
1.5mm Allen key (Stage 11)
Main chassis assembly (Stage 46)
Radio box (Stage 46)
Steering rod (Stage 46)
3 × 10mm self-tapping screws × 4 (Stage 46)
3 × 3mm set screw (Stage 46)
Paper towel or tissue
Thread-locking agent (or rubber-based adhesive)
Stage 47

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Prepare the above parts saved from Stage 46. Lay out the steering
rod, four 3 × 10mm binding-head self-tapping screws, and a 3 ×
3mm set screw.
Turn the screw into place
with a screwdriver, but
only gently at this stage.
Add the remaining two
3 × 10mm screws saved
from Stage 46 into the
free holes and tighten all
four in the order shown
in the photo.
Place one of the 3 × 10mm
binding-head self-tapping
screws into the rst hole
(see arrow).
Tighten with a screwdriver,
again only lightly.
The steering servo will t
in place neatly, so that the
screw holes align (circled).
Hold the radio box upper
so that its underside is
facing up, then place the
steering servo into the
rectangular space so that
the screw holes on both
parts line up.
Rotate the assembly and
insert the next 3 × 10mm
screw into the hole on
the other side, diagonally
opposite the one tted in
Step 5.

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Wrap the steering rod
(Stage 46) in a strip of
paper towel or tissue to
protect it.
Carefully feed the rod
through so that the short
section of the rod that is
between two right-angles
is the only part within the
servo horn.
Keep twisting until the rod
is protruding through to
the other side of the servo
horn.
Twist the servo horn from
side to side to help the
hole accommodate the
steering rod.
This is what the assembly should look
like from the front. Double check you
have all the parts correctly joined.
Hold the steering rod
rmly in the needle-nose
pliers, then insert its tip
into the circled hole on
the servo horn, as shown.
Make sure you have the
correct end of the rod.
Your steering rod and servo
horn should look like this.
Check that you have each part
the right way round. The photo
is of the assembly from the rear.

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Hold the servo horn
steady, and move the
steering rod back and
forth a number of times.
This is to very slightly
widen the hole and create
a smoother action.
Place the 2.6 × 10mm
servo horn screw into the
hole in the centre of the
servo horn.
Press into place.
Hold the radio box to the front
right of the chassis assembly.
Insert the free end of the steering
rod into the front right servo
saver (see arrow).
Press the steering horn
onto the servo so that it
sits snugly and level to
the edge of the box (see
dotted red line).
Hold the steering box
with the steering servo
facing upwards, as shown.
Place the steering rod and
servo horn assembly onto
the circular output shaft
on the servo, so that the
round ridge on the back
side of the servo horn
accommodates the shaft.
Tighten with a screwdriver,
but as this is only a
temporary assembly do
not tighten fully.

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Carefully lower the radio
box (upper) onto the
lower section tted in the
previous stage. The parts
should t together snugly.
Place the set screw into
the hole in the arm of the
servo saver into which the
steering rod is tted.
Apply a little thread-
locking agent, or rubber-
based adhesive.
Place the next 3 × 3mm
set screw (Stage 46) onto
the tip of the 1.5mm Allen
key.
Inspect the photo
carefully. The steering rod
should be almost straight,
with the steering servo at
right angles to the edge of
the radio box. This
set-up is known as the
‘neutral’ position.
Turn the Allen key to
tighten the set screw, but
only lightly at this stage.
Assembled parts

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Fitting the throttle servo
Phillips screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers (two pairs)
Cutters
Scissors
1.5mm Allen key (Stage 11)
Cross wrench (Stage 8)
Main chassis assembly (Stage 47)
Radio box lid
2 × 8mm self-tapping screw
3 × 3mm set screws × 2
Body pins × 2
Brake rod
Throttle linkage rod
Throttle ball end
3 × 10mm binding-head self-tapping screws × 10
Tools and
materials
from Stage 46
Throttle spring
2mm stoppers × 2
Linkage base
Brake collar
Radio box collars × 2
2mm washer
Paper towel or tissue
Thread-locking agent or
rubber-based adhesive
Silicon tubing (Stage 43)
Battery box (Stage 45)
Power switch (Stage 45)
Your parts
Tools and
materials
Throttle servo (KS-302DS)
Servo horn
Servo horn screw
Stage 48

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Hold the throttle linkage
rod (Stage 46) with
the needle-nose pliers,
covering it with a piece
of folded paper towel
or tissue for protection.
Screw the throttle ball end
(also Stage 46) onto the
threaded tip.
Carefully turn the servo
horn from right to left
until the tip of the rod
makes its way through to
the other side.
Your servo horn and brake rod assembly should look like this.
Holding the brake rod
with the needle-nose
pliers, line up the tip of the
rod with the circled hole
on the servo horn. Make
sure you have the servo
horn the right way round,
with the recessed circle in
the central portion facing
upwards, as shown.
Next, wrap the brake rod
(Stage 46) in a piece of
folded paper towel.
Insert a 2 × 8mm self-
tapping screw (Stage 46)
into the stepped/recessed
hole in the centre of the
linkage base (also Stage
46).
Turn the ball end until the remaining visible portion
of the threaded section measures 2mm.
Push the front of the
servo horn down (upper
arrow) while lifting the
back up (lower arrow)
Keep going until the
portion of the rod that
appears vertical in the
photo is in the hole of
the servo horn.
2mm

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Place a 2mm washer over
the protruding tip of the
screw at the other side of
the linkage base.
Prepare the throttle
linkage rod assembly
from Step 1, and slide the
throttle spring (Stage 46)
over the free end of the
rod.
Make sure that the screw
is loose enough that you
can move the linkage base
back and forth a little, but
tight enough to stop the
part rattling.
Tighten with a screwdriver,
but only up to the point
where the linkage base
can still be rotated slightly.
Use scissors to cut the
silicon tubing kept from
Stage 43 in half.
Push the throttle linkage
rod through the linkage
base until the spring tted
in Step 13 rests against the
side of the linkage base.
Making sure the washer
and screw do not fall out,
place the tip of the screw
into the circled hole on
the side of the servo horn.
Making sure the spring
does not fall o, insert
the free tip of the rod into
the hole in the side of the
linkage base.

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Slide one of the lengths
of silicon tubing over the
free end of the throttle
linkage rod.
Slide the 2mm stopper
over the free end of the
throttle linkage rod.
Turn the set screw
into the hole, but stop
before it enters the
central hole. Leave the
Allen key in place.
Place the rst 3 × 3mm
set screw (Stage 46)
onto the tip of the
1.5mm Allen key. Apply
a little thread-locking
agent (or rubber-based
adhesive), then begin
to tighten into the hole
in the side of the 2mm
stopper (also Stage 46).
Use the cutters to remove
the curved tip at the right
side of the servo horn.
Follow the dotted line
shown in this photo, and
use the photo of Step 38
as a reference. Do not
try to cut the tip o all at
once, but instead go little
by little.
Secure the stopper in
place by tightening
the set screw with the
Allen key.
Slide the tube along until
it rest against the side of
the linkage base.
Push the 2mm stopper
along the rod until it rests
against the silicon tubing
tted in Step 17.

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Very carefully remove the
temporarily-xed radio
box top from the chassis
assembly (Stage 47). To
do this, you will need to
unscrew the set screw
holding the steering rod
in place.
Lightly tighten the screw
with a screwdriver.
Place the rst 3 × 10mm
binding-head self-tapping
screw into one of the
holes in the servo.
Adjust the servo so that
it ts neatly into the hole,
with all the screw holes
lined up directly.
Lower the radio box top
onto the box bottom
tted to the main chassis
in Stage 46. The holes
along the edge of the box
top should line up with
those on the box bottom.
Pass the cable coming
out of the steering servo
along the gap between
the throttle servo and out
to the back of the radio
box top.
Hold the radio box top
with its underside facing
upwards, with the throttle
servo in your other hand,
with the circular output
shaft at the top of the box.
Place the servo through
the hole in the radio box
top so that the screw
holes line up to each other
(see arrows).
Fit the remaining three 3 ×
10mm binding-head self-
tapping screws into the
holes in the servo. Make
sure that the servo is set
perfectly straight into the
hole in the radio box top,
then tighten each screw
fully to secure the part.

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Place a 3 × 10mm binding-
head self-tapping screw
into the rst of the holes
along the edge of the
radio box.
Holding the parts in
place, turn the chassis
assembly and tighten the
3mm nylon nut on the
underside of the servo
saver using the arm of the
cross wrench marked '5.5'.
Carefully re-insert the
steering rod into the front
servo saver, then tighten
the set screw again to
secure the parts. The
steering rod should be left
in the ‘neutral’ position
(see Step 24, Stage 47).
Tighten each of the
remaining ve screws into
the remaining holes lining
the radio box. Once all six
screws are in, tighten each
to fully fasten the box.
Slide the 2mm stopper down to the base of
the brake rod. Then, slide over the remaining
length of silicon tubing, followed by the
brake collar (Stage 46). The brake collar
should be put on with the at side facing
the silicon tube.
Push all parts along so they rest against
each other, as shown. Do not tighten the set
screw in the 2mm stopper at this stage.
Insert the free end of the brake rod into the
brake lever (circled).
Tighten the screw gently
with a screwdriver.
Prepare the second 2mm
stopper and 3mm set
screw in the same way as
you did in Steps 19 and
20. Place the assembly
over the free end of the
brake rod.

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Place the power switch
and battery box inside
the space at the rear of
the radio box, as shown.
It is not necessary at this
stage to connect the
servo cables.
Prepare the power
switch and battery box
supplied with Stage 45,
and join the connectors
of both. There is only
one way the connectors
will t correctly.
Fit both radio box collars
(Stage 46) over the
cylindrical projections
at the rear of the radio
box. The wider side of the
collars should sit against
the body of the box.
Make sure all the cables
are safely inside the
radio box, then close the
box by adding the lid
(see arrow).
With the brake rod still attached through
the brake lever, place the throttle servo
horn onto the throttle servo. The servo horn
should sit perfectly at right angles to the
edge of the radio box.
Hold the brake lever level (see dotted lines), then push the
stopper, silicon tube and brake collar up against the hoop of the
brake lever.
Push the servo horn down so that it slots
into place, with the output shaft on the top
of the servo beneath. At this stage, the brake
rod will be set at an angle.
Once in position, tighten the 3mm set screw with the 1.5mm Allen
key to secure the parts.
Place the servo horn screw into the
central hole of the servo horn, then
tighten with a screwdriver. This is a
temporary assembly, so only tighten
lightly at this stage.
4848
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Hold the circular end of the body pin in the
second pair of pliers, then very carefully
rotate both in opposite directions to cause
the body pin to bend – see photo for Step
53 for the correct angle.
Hold the rst of the two body pins
supplied with Stage 46 in the needle-nose
pliers, as shown.
Repeat with the second body pin, so that the radio box
is fastened shut. Your assembly should look like this.
Push the rst body pin through the hole in the
projection at the rear of the radio box. The bend in the
pin should be positioned away from the box.
The photo shows the correct angle of the
bend in the body pin. Repeat Steps 51 and
52 for the other body pin. This is to make
it easier to attach and remove the pins in
later use.
5151
After
Before
Assembled parts