Diamondback 270 User manual

Edge
Trim (2)
If your truck has bed rail caps, you should
affix the included bulkhead prep kit prior to
installing the cover. Refer to the Bulkhead
Prep Kit Installation Guide for details.
Drill 3/8" Nut Driver 9/16" Socket 7/16" Socket
TOOLS REQUIRED: PRE-INSTALLATION NOTE:
Ratchet Wrench
INSTALLATION GUIDE
DiamondBackCovers.com / 800 935 4002
Important installation information
IMPORTANT!
Keep an eye out for these icons:
Normal install time
90 minutes
Tips to assist installation
Helpful Hints
’15–up Colorado & Canyon
with the 61.7" Cargo Box 270
CVR-270.4
CONTINUED ON REVERSE >
Tail Panel
Cab & T Panels Assembly Clamp Bracket
Lock-Rod Striker
Brackets (2)
1/8" Hex
Key
Threaded Insert
Installation Tool
Cap
Clamps (6)
× 6
Gas
Springs (6)
× 6
1/4" Rivet
Nuts (8)
× 8
1/4" Self-Drilling
Screws (8)
× 8
1/4" Hex
Bolts (8)
× 8
1/4" Plain
Washers (8)
× 8
PARTS INCLUDED:
PREPARE THE CARGO BED
1Attach the clamp bracket to the bulkhead, centered side to side,
flush with the top rail, and longer leg down using a drill, 3/8" nut driver
bit, and four self-drilling screws.
Installing the clamp bracket is easiest if you pre-drill it using
the screws.
Detach all three brackets by removing the self-drilling screws.
3
Use the holes in the truck body
left by the self-drilling screws
as pilot holes to drill larger,
3/8" holes.
4
Attach a lock-rod striker bracket to each front corner of the cargo
bed, the bracket’s V bend pointing rearward and the side flange
located as high as possible without it breaking the plane of the top
of the bed rail, using a drill, 3/8" nut driver bit, two self-drilling
screws, and the two slots nearest the ends of the bracket.
2
Insert the installation-tool mandrel into a rivet nut. Hand-tighten
it until its hexagonal sleeve is tight to the face of the rivet nut.
6
Remove the installation tool by unscrewing the mandrel.
8
You’ll know the rivet
nut is fully com-
pressed when you
feel the mandrel
become very difficult
to turn.
Use a 9/16" wrench to hold the installation-tool
sleeve as you tighten the mandrel with a 7/16"
socket until the rivet nut deforms and locks
against the interior of the bed wall.
7
Hammer a rivet nut into each hole.
5
Do not install rivet nuts through plastic bed rail caps or plastic
bedliners. (Spray-on bedliners are fine.) Use a utility knife to
trim the plastic so that the rivet nuts’ outer flange can sit
tightly against the body of the truck itself.
Do not overtighten the bolts or you might strip the rivet nuts.
Reinstall all three brackets using
the hex bolts, plain washers, and a
7/16" socket.
10
If you are also installing a Cross Bin, do so now. Refer to page 2 of
the Cross Bin Installation Guide for details.
11
Repeat steps 6-8 for each rivet nut.
9

For best weather protection,
have a second person press down on the cover
while you adjust the lock rods.
Peel the red adhesive backing from
two of the pieces of edge trim and
affix one as far up as possible onto
the top rim of each of the factory holes in the
bed walls under the tail panel. (See step 20
illustration for location.)
There may be plastic plugs in the
factory holes. Remove them.
18
20 With the lock handle in the open position, adjust the length of the lock
rods so that their tips stop about 1/4" short of the factory holes.
MOUNT THE COVER
Place the cab & T panels
assembly on the front
half of the bed so
its leading edge
lines up with
the outside
edge of the
bulkhead.
12
Center the cover side to side.
16
Lower the tail panel into the closed position.
15
17 Tighten the cap clamps with a 9/16" socket.
Road vibration can loosen your clamps. Retighten them after
100 miles. Check them every time you haul on top.
14 Attach the tail panel by angling it 90° from the bed rails, sliding its
driver-side, loop-shaped hinge knuckle fully onto the correspond-
ing center-panel hinge pin, then dropping its passenger-side,
C-shaped hinge knuckle fully onto its corresponding pin.
FIRST SECOND
90°
13 Loosely affix the T panel to the truck by finger-tightening two
cap clamps under each of the three ends of the T panel, the
clamps’ bottom jaws under the bed rails at the two side ends
and under clamp bracket at the nose.
FULLY MATED
SET THE LOCK RODS
Repeat steps 19–21 for the forward cab-panel lock rods so that:
A. with the lock handles in the open position, the rod tips
clear the striker brackets,
B. with the handles in the closed position, the forward rod
tips do not strike the bulkhead,
C. in the closed position, they’re tight against the underside
of the striker brackets, drawing the panels down & com-
pressing the weatherstrip, and
D. the first bend in the rods points downward.
22
Loosen the set
screws on the
tail-panel lock-rod
linkages.
19
1/8"hex key
ATTACH THE GAS SPRINGS
23 If you are also installing a Side Bin, do so now. Refer to the Side Bin
Installation Guide for details.
Attach the 60-lb. gas springs to the cab-panel ball studs and the
two stronger gas springs to the tailgate-panel ball studs.
24
You’ll find the strength of the gas springs printed on the sides of
the barrels.
To avoid premature failure of your gas springs, attach
them barrel up, shaft down.
Leave the cover closed and locked for 24 hours
to allow the weatherstrip adhesive, which is
pressure-sensitive, to fully cure.
25
MAY 2 017
DiamondBackCovers.com NOVEMBER 2018
With the lock handle in the closed posi-
tion, position the lock rods tight against
the top rims of the factory holes in the
bed wall so that they’ll draw the panels
down and compress the
weatherstrip. Tighten the
rod guide brackets with a
7/16" socket.
21
7/16" socket