Festool MFS Multi-Routing Template System User manual

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 1
The Festool MFS Multi-Routing
Template System
A User's Guide by Brice Burrell
Contents
Introduction ..................................................................................................................................................2
Connecting the MFS profiles. ................................................................................................................... 10
Template Routing with the MFS System.................................................................................................. 17
Inlays.......................................................................................................................................................... 27
Jack Miters, Stair Stringers, and Circle Cutting....................................................................................... 41
Cutting Applications .................................................................................................................................. 58
Using the MFS As A Clamping Aid ............................................................................................................ 71
Miscellaneous Uses For the MFS............................................................................................................. 74
Closing Thoughts....................................................................................................................................... 78

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 2
Introduction
Here is a look at the Festool MFS 400 and MFS 700, multi-routing template system.
While these tools excel as routing templates they are capable of far more. Routing operations like
open-field inlays, borders, cutouts, mortises, routing circles, curves and arcs are just part of what the
MFS system can do. Use the MFS with your Multi Function Table to help square the guide rail with
the table, or as a cutting fence. I've even used the profiles as a temple to make cuts with my jigsaw!
To understand the full value of this accessory, don't think of it as a "Routing Template". Envision
profiles that form templates, squares, fences, stops, story sticks and jigs of every kind, a "Multi-
Function Profile" system.
The first thing I'd like to do is credit Jerry Work, Ned Young and John Lucas for the work that they
have already done to help us get the most out of the MFS and the Festool system. Some of the
methods, techniques and ideas you will see here have come from their writings. So, thank you
gentlemen.
Here is a link to Jerry Work's MFS manual. Jerry Work designs and hand crafts fine furniture in Kerby,
OR. Check out his site, The Dovetail Joint.
Ned Young started a thread on the Festool Owners Group forum, Notes on the MFS.
John Lucas has shared a lot of great ideas on his site, WoodShopDemos.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 3
The components of the MFS 400 and MFS 700.
To get started let’s take a look at the components that make up the MFS template system.
Knowing what the parts are and what they do from the beginning will help you understand the
functions and methods later on in this review.
In this photo you see what is included with the MFS 400 set: two 400 mm and two
200 mm profiles, two angle stops, anti-tilting insert, circle-cutting insert and pivot, 3 mm ball head
Allen driver, connecting hardware and an instruction manual.
The MFS 700 set (not pictured above) includes all of the same components, except its profiles are
400 mm and 700 mm.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 4
The MFS profiles are aluminum extrusions with graduated metric scales printed on them. Profiles are
80 mm wide and 16 mm thick with a series of "Joiner" or "V" slots and "Clamp" slots. The Joiner or V
slots are for the connecting hardware, circle-cutting insert and pivot and the coupling hardware (not
included with the sets) for joining profiles length-wise. I'll go into detail on how to join the profiles in its
own section in this review.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 5
The Festool FSZ 120, FSZ 300 and FS-HZ clamps fit in the clamp slots, as do the guide rail
connectors. The guide connectors can also be used to join the profiles in length. Also, 1/4" square
and hex nuts fit the slots if you want to add a fixture to the profiles or mount them to jig or table with
your own (imperial or “inch” style) hardware.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 6
The 3 mm ball head driver is used on almost all of the MFS hardware. The ball head allows the driver
to be used on an angle as shown in this photo.
The angle stops mount into the V slots and are used to help position the MFS.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 7
Here the angle stops are mounted on the bottom of the MFS to precisely locate the MFS for an inlay.
This is the anti-tilting insert. It is used to prevent the router from tipping or tilting during routing operations. If the
router is tilted the work piece can be ruined. Copying rings fit into the anti-tilting insert, this allows it to travel
with the router. The insert can fit 24, 27, 30 and 40 mm copying rings.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 8
Here you can see the insert in place under the router. The insert is only needed when the profiles are
spread too far apart for the router's base to be fully supported by the profiles themselves.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 9
This is the circle-cutting insert and pivot. I'll go into more detail about how to use the MFS to rout
circles, curves and arcs later in this review.
Festool offers some other accessories not shown in this review. Longer profiles are available, 1000
mm profiles and 2000 mm profiles to extend the MFS template system. You can use the Routing
Slide with the MFS to support the router when routing out large areas, for example open field inlays.
Also offered, as spare parts, are a set of 4 MFS "Joiners" (part # 493235) that fit into the V slots to
connect profiles length-wise. You'll need to call Festool's service department to order the joiners.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 10
Connecting the MFS profiles.
In this section I'm going to you show how to connect the profiles into rectangles and end-to-end.
The MFS profiles have male and female ends, as shown here. The male ends have two small studs
or indexing pins to align the profiles. Also the male ends have the connecting hardware, notice the "V"
nut with a ball detent.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 11
The male end fits into the female end to align the profiles end-to-end. A guide rail connector or the
MFS joiner can be used to secure the connection. Guide rail connectors (fitted into the clamp slot) are
used in the photo above.
The V nut on the male end of the profile fits into the V slot in the edge of another profile. The male's
indexing pins also fit into the edge V slots to ensure perfect alignment.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 12
This shot is a close-up of two profiles connected.
To make a rectangle, connect two profiles, a short and long one, to form a "L"
with the scales on the inside. Use the Allen driver to secure the joint.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 13
You can see from this picture that the scales are on the inside of the "L". The scales are an important
feature of the MFS. They allow the template to be quickly set to size.
Once you have two "L" shapes formed, connect the two to make a rectangle.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 14
You can adjust the sizes of the MFS rectangles by moving the sort of
"L" shaped pairs to set the width and length. At first, assembling the
profiles can be kind of tough, but after doing it a few times you get the
feel for it. I've sprayed my profiles, including the hardware, with a dry
lubricant. This helps reduce some of the friction while adjusting them.
As another added benefit, it lets tools slide on them easily.
By combining sets and/or the longer profiles, different shapes can be made. This will greatly increase
the usefulness of the system.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 15
It may be necessary to add the connecting hardware to both ends of some of the profiles to join
different shapes. The hardware can be removed from one profile and added to another. The bolt and
V nut have to be removed and the threaded insert can be taken out. The insert has an Allen recess,
the insert is reverse threaded, turn clockwise to remove, use a 4 mm Allen key. The insert can
then be screwed into another profile, turning counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise), and it will self tap
into the aluminum.
I recommend exercising great care removing and installing the connecting hardware, it would
not be hard to strip the aluminum, especially if you forget about the reverse threading.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 16
The angle stops have V nuts that slide into the V slots to mount the stops to the profiles. The stops
can be mounted square or on an angle.
Connecting the profiles can be tricky in the beginning as I've already mentioned, sometimes you wish
you had another set of hands to line up all of the hardware. The key is to be patient when connecting
and adjusting the MFS profiles. Taking the time to perfectly set the template will show in the end
results you achieve with this system.
Moving on to using the MFS system, it's hard to know what to cover first. I think most people imagine
the MFS being used as a routing template, so why not start there.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 17
Template Routing with the MFS System
Routing inlays, borders, cutouts, mortises, circles, curves and arcs can be very accurately done
with the MFS. I know my results are much better now that I'm using the MFS instead of the
wooden jigs and fixtures I've used in the past. Template routing with the MFS is a fairly
straightforward concept. However, there are a few things to keep in mind when deciding how to
use and set up this system as a routing template, I'll go over some of them in this section, as well
as show you how I use the MFS for my routing projects.
If you happen to be unfamiliar with what template routing is, I'll explain. It is using a jig, fixture or in
this case, the MFS profiles to guide a router's travel. The router must have a copying ring (guide
bushing) or a bit with a bearing to prevent the bit from cutting into the template as it travels. When
using a bit with a bearing, like a flush cut or pattern bit, the profiles can be set to the exact size
needed, whether it is a cutout or mortise. This really simplifies the setup.
However, using a pattern bit is not without its risks. The issue is with the bit accidentally cutting into
the template/profile. This can happen one of two ways.
First, while plunging the bit into the work piece, before the bearing can engage the template
(with the bearing still above the profile) it can't stop the bit from going astray and doing bad
things to your profile.
The second issue occurs if the bearing happens to land in the V slot in the edge of the profile.
You can run into this with smaller bits as they usually have small bearings that can fall into the
slot.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 18
The picture above shows the potential dangers of using a pattern bit with the MFS. I'm not suggesting
pattern bits can't be used, but, care must be taken when selecting the right bit. Bearing size, cutting
length and diameter should all factor into the decision. When used in the right circumstances they can
be a real asset.
I use the MFS most often to rout for hardware like lock sets, strikes, latches and catches, but, most of
all hinges. I've made all kinds of jigs to rout hinges, all of them out of wood or MDF. While they do
work, it is usually only a short time before they become inaccurate from relatively light use. If you
have ever used a wooden jig you know what I mean. I've had to add very thin shims to my hinge
templates to finish jobs, not wanting to make a new jig to rout one or two more hinges.
That drove me nuts! Now, I use the MFS, it is so much faster, easier and far more accurate than the
wooden jigs ever were. I can set up the MFS and make a test cut in about five minutes or less. If it
needs to be adjusted, that can usually be done in less than one minute. If a wooden jig is off, you're
stuck shimming or remaking the entire jig. So let me show you how I use the MFS with a small pattern
bit to rout hinges.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 19
The first step is to mark the setback for the hinge. I'll use this line to index the MFS.
With the small pattern bit I use to rout my hinges I can set the MFS to the exact length of the hinge.
The width is set wide enough so I can test fit the hinge without removing the MFS.

© 2008-2009, Brice Burrell Page 20
Once the MFS is set to size, I place it on the pencil line then set the angle stops and clamp the work
piece/MFS down.
Here is a close look at the bit I'll be using. It is the same type that I showed earlier, you can see I've
add a second bearing to solve the problem of the bearing falling into the
V slot. It is a 1/2" diameter; this will match the 1/4" radius on the hinges.