Greenhouse Style Traditional Straight Lean To User manual
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Traditional Series
Straight Lean To
Model TLT612SG
GREENHOUSE INSTRUCTIONS
BCG – THE GARDENERS’ CHOICE SINCE 1951
OCTOBER 2008
A5 - 19327- 94th Ave, Surrey, BC, Canada V4N 4E6
Telephone:(604)882-8408•Fax:(604)882-8491•Toll-FreeinNorthAmerica:1- 888-391-4433
Traditional Series
Straight Lean To
Model TLT612SG
GREENHOUSE INSTRUCTIONS
BCG – THE GARDENERS’ CHOICE SINCE 1951
OCTOBER 2008
A5 - 19327- 94th Ave, Surrey, BC, Canada V4N 4E6
Telephone:(604)882-8408•Fax:(604)882-8491•Toll-FreeinNorthAmerica:1- 888-391-4433
Contents
Foreword ....................................................................... 2
User Notes ..................................................................... 2
List of Drawings ................................................................. 3
Traditional Straight Series Component List ........................................... 4
Foundations .................................................................... 5
Assembly of the Aluminum Frame
A. Back Gable-End Assembly ....................................................8
B. Front Gable-End Assembly With Door ........................................ 11
C. Sidewall Assembly .........................................................14
Aluminum Frame Installation
1. Side Wall To Back Gable End.................................................15
2. Side Wall To Front Gable End ................................................15
3. Ridge ....................................................................16
4. Truss Assembly Installation (If Necessary) ...........................See Appendix A
5. Glass Bar With Sliders (#1 or #2) .............................................16
6. Vent Frame Angle ..........................................................16
7. Glass Bars ................................................................16
Taping Glass Bars with Foam.................................................17
8. Fastening The Base/Sill To The Foundation .....................................17
9. Side Vents, Intake Shutter and
Exhaust Fan Installation (if necessary). ...................See Appendices B through E
Glass and Cap Installation
General Information........................................................25
10. Side Glass ................................................................25
11. Roof Glass ................................................................27
12. End Walls Glass............................................................28
13. Sealing The Greenhouse.....................................................29
Door And Vent Installation
14. Door Installation ..........................................................30
15. Vent Installation ..........................................................32
16. Vent Assembly ............................................................33
– 1 –
Foreword
Your Traditional greenhouse is designed and constructed to the highest engineering standards and
provides structural strength and maintenance-free service for year-round gardening pleasure.
The Traditional greenhouse must be built upon a firm, level surface. The greenhouse foundation or
sill can be made from pre-treated timbers, concrete or bricks. Whatever your choice of material, the
base must be square and level.
When selecting a site for your greenhouse, keep in mind that a flat, level site is essential so that
the greenhouse can be easily installed and the complete structure is stable and secure. If possible,
choose a site with proper water drainage.
Locating the greenhouse in a north-south position is most suitable for raising summer and autumn
crops since the sun’s rays will be on the greenhouse from daybreak until sunset. An east-west
position is ideal for early spring and winter crops since the winter months, with shorter daylight
hours, still allow six hours of light exposure to the greenhouse.
Try to locate your greenhouse for easy access, especially to the necessary power and water that is
required for greenhouse gardening.
Please watch the enclosed video and follow the steps in this manual for your greenhouse
installation. Remember, if all else fails, read the instructions.
User Notes
The Traditional greenhouse structure has been designed to
withstand extreme weather conditions such as high winds and
accumulated snowfall. Hanging baskets and sidewall shelving can
also be attached to its sturdy frame. The greenhouse design also
makes it possible to add extra sections at a later date.
Once a year the greenhouse needs to be completely washed inside
and out. You should do this task when your greenhouse contains
the least number of plants, generally just before the garden plants
are brought in for wintering over. A recommended cleaning
solution is a mixture of hot water with a disinfectant such as Lysol
or Pinesol. Any benches, shelving, plastic trays, pots and baskets
should also be cleaned thoroughly. Prevention is the best known
method for controlling pests and diseases in the greenhouse.
– 2 –
PLEASE NOTE: The
Illustrations found
in this manual may
not be specific to your
greenhouse, however
the detail of aluminum
shapes are all consistent.
The user notes are a
generic instruction for
all Traditional Series
Greenhouses – assembly
instructions are
common, only the sizes
number of pieces and
sizes vary.
– 3 –
List of Drawings
Foundation Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Back Gable End Inside View Picture .................................................. 7
Back Gable End Inside View Detail Line Sketch 1 – 5 .................................... 8
Front Gable End Detail Line Sketch 1 – 7 ............................................. 10
Front Gable End Inside View Picture ................................................ 11
Sidewall Inside View ..............................................................15
Assembly Outline Steps 1 – 3 .......................................................16
Steps 4 – 7 .......................................................17
Steps 8 – 12 ......................................................18
Door Installation ..................................................31
Vent Assembly - Exploded View ......................................................34
Vent Detail......................................................................35
Truss Assembly .......................................................... Appendix A
Intake Shutter ........................................................... Appendix B
Exhaust Fan ............................................................. Appendix C
Side Vent ...............................................................Appendix D
Glass Louvre .............................................................Appendix E
Polycarbonate Roof Panels Installation........................................Appendix F
Perlin Installation ........................................................Appendix G
Greenhouse Bench .......................................................Appendix H
Roof Vent Screen ..........................................................Appendix I
Side Vent Screen ..........................................................Appendix J
Wire Shelving ........................................................... Appendix K
Miscellaneous Assembly Details: 1& 2
– 4 –
Tool
#2 qquare head
screw driver
Measuring tape
Level to check foundation
3/16” concrete bit
(concrete foundation)
9/64” aluminum bit
15/64” aluminum bit
fastening perlins to trusses
(larger greenhouses)
7/16” wrench
Razor blade cutter
Caulking gun
Ladder
Hammer
Optional
Automatic Opener
Circulating Fan
Max/Min Thermometer
Benches
Eyebolts
Motorized Intake Shutter
Exhaust Fan
Thermostat
Heater
Ridge Glass Cap & Glass Bar End Rafter Ventframe Bottom
Corner Post Plastic H Vent Frame Sides Perlin (if required)
Screws and Bolts Base / Sill Door Frame Gutter
Traditional Component List
– 5 –
PRE-TREATED WOOD FOUNDATION
Foundations
Check your local building codes for foundation requirements in your area.
CONCRETE FOUNDATIONS
When you prepare the concrete foundation, the size should be built to the exact greenhouse’s
outside dimensions.
PRE-TREATED WOOD FOUNDATIONS
A greenhouse that is approximately 100 sq. ft. (9.3 m2) can be fastened to a 4” x 4” pre-
treated wood timber foundation. For larger greenhouses, a 6” x 6” wood timber foundation is
recommended. These timbers are placed on a 4” (10 cm) deep and 8” (20 cm) wide gravel bed.
Wood timbers can be stacked to increase the height of the greenhouse. One advantage of the wood
foundation is that it is not classified as a permanent structure. Therefore, if you move, the greenhouse can be
dismantled and moved to another location.
A SQUARE AND LEVEL FOUNDATION
Check the width and length of the foundation’s outside dimensions. Then, square the foundation
by measuring diagonally from opposite corners in the form of an “X”. Next, use a long carpenter’s
level to check and adjust the foundation until it is level. Finally, measure where the door will be
placed (in most cases it is 341/2” wide). Mark these measurements on your foundation.
Foundation Styles
Pressure Treated
Wood
4x4, 4x6, 6x6
Concrete Wall or
Concrete Block
with Pressure
Treated Wood
Plate
Concrete Wall
with
Footing
Concrete Wall
with
Footing and
Brick Facing
Gravel
Pre-cast
Concrete Pier
Block
Pressure
Treated
Wood
Pressure
Treated
Wood
Truss on
Models over
13’ Long
Truss on
Models over
13’ Long
IMPORTANT NOTE: If pressure treated timbers are used, a 10mm polyethylene barrier must be used between the
wood and the aluminum (see page 6)
Truss on
Models over
13’ Long
Truss on
Models over
13’ Long
NOTE:
8” Concrete
Wall on Gable
Ends, models
over 16’ wide
(see detail)
Flashing by
Others
Flashing by
Others
– 6 –
Pressure Treated Wood
WHAT IS NEW ABOUT PRESSURE TREATED WOOD?
As of January 2005, the chemicals used in pressure treated wood have been changed. Previous
wood was treated with arsenic. However due to the potential long term health hazards this has
been discontinued. New pressure treated wood is treated with copper.
The copper in the ‘new’ wood will be CORROSIVE TO ALUMINUM as well as other metals.
What are ‘Greenhouse Friendly’ solutions to the new pressure treated wood?
1 If you are using the new pressure treated wood, you must place a barrier between the wood
and your aluminum frame. Popular barriers include 10 mil thick plastic sheeting, steel
weather flashing, a rubber or foam weather membrane, or a row of weather resistant non-
treated wood such as cedar or hemlock.
2 Other weather resistant non-treated woods are popular alternatives to pressure treated wood.
These contain no harmful chemicals and will outlast pressure treated wood. Cedar timbers
are a popular choice for greenhouse foundations.
3 Concrete foundations have always been suitable foundation alternatives for greenhouses.
They can vary from poured concrete slabs, poured concrete perimeter walls to concrete block
walls. Although these are usually more costly than wood alternatives, they have the benefit
of lasting a lifetime. As they are usually considered a permanent foundation, it is important
to check with your building codes to determine what you are able to build.
If you have any questions about using the ‘New’ pressure treated wood in conjunction with our
aluminum greenhouses, please contact our office at 1-888-391-4433.
– 7 –
– 8 –
Back Gable End Line Drawing Assembly Procedure
1 2
3 4
5
– 8 –
Base
Corner Post
Glass Bars
Back Brace
End Rafter
A B
Back Gable End Assembly
– 9 –
C
E
D
Base
Corner
Post
Lay out the back pieces into the
shape of the end wall. See page
6 for details and refer to the line
drawing on page 7.
1. The 1” x 2” angle / base
laying on the ground
should have the 1” side
(with the slot punches out)
facing up. (See Pic Aand
Sketch 1, page 8)
2. Bolt the corner post onto
the base angle. (See Pic B
and Sketch 2, page 8)
3. Bolt on all the end bars to
the base. Make sure that
the longest bar is at the end
of the back wall. (Sketch 3,
page 8)
4. End Rafter. When fastening
end rafters to the
cornerpost (See Pic C) and
the long end Glass Bar,
leave a 1/8” space for
gutters and ridge (See
Pic Dand Sketch 4, page 8).
5. The angle horizontal brace
is approx. 60” from the
base bolted on with 1/4” x
1/2” bolts. (See Pic Eand
Sketch 5, page 8)
Base
Horizontal
Brace
Front Gable End (with door) Line Drawing Assembly Procedure
1 2
3 4
5
7
6
– 10 –
Base
Corner
Post
End
Rafter
Glass Bar
Door
Frame
Door
Frame
Header
Plates
(4-hole)
1” x 2”
Door
Frame
Header
1” x 2”
Brace
Glass Bar
above
Door
Plates
(6-hole)
– 11 –
Front Gable End Assembly
Lay out the front pieces into the shape of an end wall. The doorframe and all Glass Bars have a track
for the bolts. The track must face up towards you when you assemble the gable ends. Slide the bolts
in to the ends or use the notches that are punched out in the Glass Bars. Refer to the line/detail
drawings when assembling. (the sketches/drawings/pictures are viewed from inside the greenhouse).
– 11 –
Corner
Post
Base
D
Top
Side
AB
C
Door drop detail to the base/sill and the doorframe
sides using 1/4” x 1/2” stainless
steel bolts (see Picture A, Band
Sketch 1, page 10). Before tighten-
ing the bolts, be sure that it is
square. (If you ordered a greenhouse
with a door drop, measure from
the bottom of the doorframe to the
underside of the base according to
the specified distance.)
put on the doorframe header
(which looks the same as the side
pieces). Put the header between
the two side pieces and bolt on
the plates (6 holes) (See Picture C
and Sketch 2, page 10). The plates
should stick up 1” above the
doorframe. Note how the plates
are put on. Before tightening the
bolts, be sure to square up the
doorframe.
top) and bolt it to the base (See
Pictures 12 and Sketch 3, page 9).
– 13 –
door frame - (see Sketch 4 on Page
9) and bolt them to the base/sill.
The angle cut should match the
roof slope (See Picture E).
The 1” x 2” angle above the door
(493/4” long) can now be bolted
on. The 1/4” round holes should
be lined up with the holes in the
plates (See Picture F). Each end
of the 1” x 2” angle has a slot
punched out to accommodate
the bolt that is lined up with
the Glass Bars 24 1/2” from the
center.
Slide a bolt in the top of the Glass
Bar and fasten the angle to it
(See Picture G).
at approximately 3’ from sill/
base. On larger greenhouses, a
diagonal 1” x 2” is sometimes
used.
E
F F
G
Front Gable End
Assembly (contd.)
Door Frame Assembly
– 14 –
5. End Rafter - when fastening end rafters to the
corner post, and long Glass Bar, leave a 1/8”
space for the gutter and ridge to slide through
(Picture Hand Sketch 5, Page 10). The punch
marks in the end rafter will line up with end
Glass Bars. Slide the bolts in the top of the
Glass Bar before you put on the end rafter.
6. At this point, you can install all the end Glass
Bars. (A smaller greenhouse will only have
1-bar above the door) (See Picture Iand
Sketch 6, page 10).
7. Smaller sized greenhouses
have a horizontal brace
(See Picture Jand Sketch
7, Page 10). Larger sized
greenhouses will have a
diagonal brace from the top
door frame plate to base/sill
2” from the corner post.
H
I
Front Gable End Assembly (contd.)
J
Door
Frame
Horizontal
Brace
Corner
Post
End
Rafter
1. Take all the Glass Bars and bolt them to
the gutter (See Picture D). Start your bars
approximately 2’ in from the end of the
gutter and base (See Picture E) (Corner
post will be fastened to the ends when the
greenhouse is assembled.
2. Bolt the Glass Bars to the base.
A
B
Sidewall Assembly C
D
E
Lay out the sidewall with the gutter at the
top - base at the bottom See Picture A). You
will notice that each sidewall Glass Bar has a
straight and an angle cut. The straight end fits
against the base (See Picture B)and the angle
goes towards the gutter (See Picture C). Always
face the bolt slot in the Glass Bar towards you.
– 15 –
– 16 –
A
B
C
1. BACK GABLE END (See Page 19)
Take the assembled back gable end
and stand it up on your foundation.
(Slide a bolt into the top of the corner
post, move it down approximately 3”
and temporarily tighten the bolt).
2. SIDE WALL (See Page 19)
Stand up side wall. Slide the gutter
(sidewall) in between the end rafter
and the corner post. (There should
be a 1/8” space – see Picture A). By
sliding the gutter in as far as it goes,
the punched out slots line up with
the bolt track in the back of the
Glass Bar (See Picture B). Undo the
bolt in the corner and slide it up into
the slot and tighten up. Fasten the
bottom base (See Picture C). Make
sure the side base fits in between the
corner and end base.
3. FRONT GABLE END (See Page
19)
Follow the same procedure as the
back gable end.
Aluminum Frame Assembly
& Installation
– 17 –
Aluminum Frame Assembly
& Installation (contd.) E
G
F
4. RIDGE (See Page 20)
NOTE: Refer to drawings for ridge height.
Before you slide in the ridge, put one bolt
in the top of each end bar. Take the ridge
(one person at each end) and slide it between
the end rafter on the top. You will notice
the punched-out slots in the bottom flange
of the ridge. The end slot lines up with the
bottom side of the end rafter Glass Bar. Now
slide in the ridge and slide the bolt up into
the ridge slot. Make sure that the Glass Bar
is tight against the ridge – use a 7/16 flat
wrench (at this time you can temporarily fasten
the ridge to keep it from moving round) (See
Picture E).
5. GLASS BAR WITH VENT SLIDERS (See
Page 21)
Each Glass Bar has a small vent frame slider
on it. They are marked 1/2/3/4 etc. On the
ridge there will be the same markings. Slide
a bolt in the top of the Glass Bar. Put into
place with the angle cut on top (Note that
the numbers are the same). Line it up with the
punched out slot in the Ridge. Slide up the
bolt and fasten it. (See Picture F).
6. VENT FRAME BOTTOM SECTION
(See Page 22)
The vent frame bottom fits in between the
Glass Bars that you have just installed (See
Picture G). The 2” side of the angle faces
towards the Ridge. Move the bolt up the
Glass Bar and fasten it.
7. REMAINING GLASS BARS (See Page 22)
All remaining Glass Bars can now be
installed. Make sure that the top is against
the ridge. Before you tighten the Glass Bar
on the gutter, eyeball the gutter to see if it is
straight. There is usually about a 1/8” space
between the Glass Bar and the gutter.
4
4
2
2
8. ROOF PURLIN (CHANNEL) (See Page 24)
When installing the roof purlin, mark it out by measuring from the ridge. The roof purlin
should be located approximately the center between the ridge and the gutter. Always face the
open end of the purlin up towards the ridge so that it can be used for hanging baskets. Every
Glass Bar has notches punched out so that the head of the bolts can be inserted and can slide
up or down on the bar.
9. TAPE ALL GLASS BARS (See Page 25)
Complete all taping with the 1/8” foam tape - install side vent frame sliders before taping the bars
(if it was not done before).
Do not put foam strips in between the glass and the base, and beside the door frame.
1O. FASTENING / SEALING THE GREENHOUSE TO
THE WALL
Before you seal behind the ridge and end
Glass Bars, square your greenhouse using
the 3/4/5 method (see sketch). Sometimes
the foundation is level but your wall is not
plumb. You may have to decide to pull
the greenhouse away from the wall or make
your foundation off-level. When your greenhouse is
squared up, mark the edge of the ridge on your wall and pull your greenhouse away from
the wall and seal behind it. Push the greenhouse back to the wall and fasten it with screws.
NOTE: Sealing can also be done after greenhouse is finished and before the vents are installed.
11. SIDE VENTS, INTAKE SHUTTER AND EXHAUST FANS INSTALLATION
(IF NECESSARY) SEE APPENDIXES B THRU E. THEN RETURN TO THE
NEXT PAGE AND CONTINUE
Note: Make sure the greenhouse is fastened to the foundation with 1” screws.
OPTIONALS
SIDE VENTS, INTAKE SHUTTERS AND EXHAUST FAN INSTALLATION: See Appendix B-E
(Pages 39 – 41).
TRUSS: If the greenhouse is larger than the instructions show, it will require a truss. Insert a
truss after the Ridge (See #4 Page 17). Follow up with installation of the Perlin (See #8, this
page). Truss assembly sketch is on Page 38.
– 18 –
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