Jydepejsen Trendline 1+2+3 User manual

Installation and user manual
Trendline 1+2+3
Troja 1+2+3
Softline
Fineline 1+2
Zeus
Athene
Hera
Avanti
Cubic 109-166-215
Cubic Corner
Cubic Wall
Cubic W200
Portland
Oregon, USA
OMNI-Test Laboratories, Inc.
O-TL
C US
Tested and listed by:
PO Box 120 . Pound Ridge NY
T.914-764-5679 . F.914-764-0465 . www.wittus.com
Imported by:
Ahornsvinget 3-7 . DK-7500 Holstebro
T.++45 96101200 F.++45 97425216 . www.jydepejsen.com
Manufactured by:
- Read this manual carefully and save the instructions -

2
Contents: Page:
1. Wood-burning stoves from Jydepejsen A/S 3
2. Before installing your stove 4
3. Chimney 8
4. Chimney connector 8
5. Heat generation and distribution 11
6. Sensible wood burning 12
7. Technical information on wood burning 12
8. Air supply and combustion 14
9. Preparation for the rst re 16
10. Lighting the stove 16
11. Refueling 16
12. Troubleshooting 17
13. Maintenance of the stove 18
14. Warranty 22
15. Spare parts list 22
Jydepejsen A/S - version 5 - 04/09

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1. Wood-burning stoves from Jydepejsen A/S
A wood burning stove from Jydepejsen A/S is a quality Danish product. Our stoves have
been providing a cheerful, cozy atmosphere and excellent savings on heating in many
homes since the company was founded in 1979.
We continue to produce stoves that are among the best on the market. The key factors are
simple operation, optimum combustion, timeless design and environmental awareness.
From the start we created innovations that have since become the norm for quality Euro-
pean stoves. In many respects these pioneering ideas have helped Denmark maintain its
position as Europe’s leading producer of wood burning steel stoves. In the production,
research & development we work purposefully towards reducing environmental impact.
It is also important to us that our stoves achieve environmentally friendly combustion,
which is ensured by Jydepejsen’s long-standing design principles.
To realize our mission of environment friendly combustion, it is your responsibility as a
consumer to use the correct fuel and operate your stove according to the instructions.
The aim of this manual is to guide and instruct stove owners in proper burning, and to
minimize the risk of incorrect operation of the stove.
Failure to follow instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.
It is therefore very important to read this manual carefully, and save the instructions.
Correct operation is also vital with regard to our applicable warranty terms.
For more information on wood burning visit the website http://woodheat.org/.
Take particular note of this symbol:
This indicates special attention.
Kind regards
All at Jydepejsen A/S

Description Trendline 1-2-3 /Troja 1-2-3 / Softline / Zeus / Athene
Hera / Avanti/Fineline 1-2/Cubic series
A. DISTANCE TO SIDE WALL US/CANADA 18" (46 cm)
B. DISTANCE TO BACK WALL US/CANADA 10" (25 cm)
C. CORNER DISTANCE TO SIDE WALLS US/CANADA 7" (18 cm)
D. CONNECTOR PIPE TO SIDE WALL US/CANADA 26" (65 cm)
E. CONNECTOR PIPE TO BACK WALL US/CANADA 16" (41 cm)
F. CORNER PIPE TO SIDE WALLS US/CANADA 16" (41 cm)
G. DISTANCE TO FURNITURE US/CANADA 36“ (92 cm)
H. FRONT FLOOR PROTECTION US 16" (41 cm)
CANADA 18" (46 cm)
I. SIDE FLOOR PROTECTION US 8" (20 cm)
beyond the sides of the fuel loading door
CANADA 8" (20 cm)
beyond the sides of the stove
J. DISTANCE TO WALL TURNABLE US/CANADA 40" (100 cm)
K. CONNECTOR PIPE TO WALL TURNABLE US/CANADA 48" (120 cm)
L. DISTANCE TO FLOOR US/CANADA 20" (50 cm)
CEILING TO TOP OF STOVE US/CANADA 36" (92 cm)
CEILING TO CONNECTOR PIPE US/CANADA 18" (46 cm)
Note: A heat shield or protective wall may be used to reduce clearances if approved by the regulatory autho-
rity. Clearances to nonconcombustible materials are 2” (5cm), but note that “noncombustible” must be solid
cement or block (not brick or tile over combustible material).
2. Before installing your stove
Jydepejsen stoves Trendline1+2+3, Troja 1+2+3, Softline, Fineline, Zeus, Athene, Hera,
Avanti, and Cubuc series are tested by OMNI-Test Laboratories, Inc. of Beaverton, Oregon
and are listed to UL 1482 and ULC S627. They are also EPA certied and meet the more
stringent WA State Environmental standards.
Consult your local Building Inspector or Fire Marshall before installation to determine the
need to obtain a permit. Also inquire about restrictions and installation inspection re-
quirements in your area.
If the stove is not installed properly, a home re may result. To reduce the risk of re,
follow the installation instructions. Contact local building or re ocials about restrictions
and installation inspection requirements in your area. Not for use in a mobile home.
A oor plate of non-combustible material (tempered glass oor plates are acceptable)
must cover under the stove and extend 16“ (41 cm) (18“ (45 cm) in Canada) in front of the
stove door, 8“ (20 cm) beyond the sides of the fuel-loading door, and under the pipe and
2“ (5 cm) beyond each side for back venting. In Canada, the 8“ (20 cm) oor protection is
required beyond the sides of the stove and in the back of the stove (0“ in the back for the
US).
Wall and corner Cubic models - If you have a Cubic Wall/Cubic Corner/Cubic W200 the
stove must be installed with the enclosed furnishings and should meet the NFPA211
guidelines. The installation must not weaken the chimney construction. The anhoring
must be done in consultation with your dealer/chimney sweep.
Cubic 166/215 - The taller Cubic models may reach the ceiling (or less than the 18"
distance to the connector pipe). If the unit does not meet the proper clearance to the
ceiling, the chimney pipe must be used to connect to the re box.
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MIMIMUM CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLES - Refer to diagrams on next 2 pages

5
CORNER VIEW
F
C,I
C,I
F
H
G
WALL VIEW
A
E
I
D
BH
G
I
TURNABLE INSTALLATION
K
J,I
J,I
K
H
G
Diagrams for Trendline 1-2-3 / Troja 1-2-3 / Softline /
Zeus / Athene/ Hera / Avanti/ Fineline 1-2

CUBIC 109/166/215
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Diagrams for Cubic Series
CUBIC WALL CUBIC CORNER
CUBIC WALL CUBIC CORNER

Installation of Trendline 2 without the turntable feature
If the Trendline 2 stove is to be used without the turntable feature (screws still attached),
please follow the standard installation procedures (pages 4 and 5) under Wall View and
Corner View for the correct clearances.

Installation of Trendline 2 with the turntable
If the Trendline 2 is being used with the turntable feature, rst remove the locking
screws located under the stove’s rebox (as shown below). Thisallows the stove
to turn freely within its 90° range. Position and center the stove properly as de-
scribed:
Turn the stove to the left most position. Measure and insure that all the standard
required clearances are met in that position.
Turn the stove to the right most position. Measure and insure that all the standard
required clearances are met in that position as well.
Make adjustments until all the clearances are met in both positions. These include
stove, pipe, and oor plate clearances.
If placed in the center of a room (with a 360° turn range), remember that all clear-
ances to combustible materials must be 36" for the Trendline 2.
7
IMPORTANT - Failure to follow these instructions may result in property damage, bo-
dily injury, or even death. You must follow the specic clearances for the turntable
feature in order not to void the warranty and liability coverage.

Required Installation Components
A. Chimney cap
B. Insulated chimney
C. Storm collar
D. Roof ashing
E. Ceiling support box or joist
shield / restop spacer
F. Chimney connector pipe
4. Chimney connector
Aluminium and galvanized steel pipe is not
acceptable for use with the Saturn woodstove.
These materials cannot withstand the extreme
temperatures of a wood re and can give o
toxic fumes when heated. Do not use the
connector pipe as a chimney.
Each chimney connector or chimney
connector section must be installed to the
stove ue collar and to each other with the
male (crimped) end toward the stove.
3. Chimney
The Jydepejsen stoves must be installed using a Class A UL 103 HT approved factory-
built chimney system or a code-approved masonry chimney with a ue liner. In Canada,
the installation must conform to NFPA 211 or CAN/CSA-B365. The chimney must extend
through the roof at least 3’ (1 m), and 2’ (6 m) above any structure within 10’(3 m). The
condition of the chimney and height is very important. We suggest a total minimum
height of 10’ (3 m).
Note! Mount the special collar using the included hardware. When installing the rst
piece of pipe (at the stove), place the pipe over the collar (except on the Trendline 2
where the crimped end goes inside the collar!), which is designed so any moisture or
creosote will drip back into the stove and burn away. If using a crimped pipe, trim or cut
that section o at the bottom and place it over the collar. Install the remaining stovepipe
segments with the crimped end down whenever possible. The hole in the casting is
designed for any moisture to drip back into the stove.
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A
B
CD
B
E
F

This prevents any amount of condensed or liquid creosote from running down the
outside of the pipe or the stove top. All joints, including the ue collar connection
must be secured with three sheet metal screws to ensure that the sections do not
separate.
For the best performance the chimney connector should be as short and direct as
possible, with no more than two 90° elbows. The maximum horizontal run is 36”
and a recommended total length of chimney connector should not exceed 10 feet.
Always slope horizontal runs upward ¼” per foot toward the chimney. Note the
chimney connector pipe should not pass through an attic or roof space, closet or
similar concealed space, or a oor or ceiling.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS STOVE TO A CHIMNEY FLUE OR AIR DISTRIBUTION
DUCT OR ANY SYSTEM SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
For venting vertically into a Class A chimney, single wall pipe (at least 24 gauge)
may be used in the room where the stove is installed. Refer to the manufacturer´s
instructions for the connection to the listed chimney. The chimney / chimney con-
nector must not be smaller than 6“ (15 cm) in diameter. For venting directly into
a masonry chimney or through a thimble, the top of the single wall pipe must be
at least 18“ (46 cm) below a combustible ceiling and conform to NFPA 211 or CAN/
CSA-B365 guidelines and methods. See diagram below.
For rear venting or other not listed congurations, consult the local building
codes and follow the NFPA 211 or CAN/CSA-B365 guidelines. If the chimney con-
nector is tted with a bae, it must be manually operated, visibly placed for ease
of use, and must not close completely. Consult your chimney expert if you have
any questions.
Make sure that there is easy access to the chimney cleanout door.
Read the instructions on page 8 carefully before connecting:
"Chimney Connector Systems and Clearances from Combustible
Walls for Residental Heating Appliances".
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Min. 2“
(5 cm)
Min. 2“
(5 cm)
Chimney ue
Connector pipe
18“ (46 cm)
below ceiling
Masonry
Insulated chimney

10

It is very important to ensure
that your chimney has a good
draft. Your dealer or your chim-
ney sweep will be able to guide
and advise you on your chimney
conditions.
Follow the operating instruc-
tions and use seasoned wood,
which burns easier and cleaner
in the combustion chamber, un-
til a proper draft is obtained. For
further information on using wood
and lighting and managing the re, please
refer to sections 5 - 10.
Please note that the stove paint will harden during
the rst few initial res. This means that the stove will generate smoke and an
odor of paint, which will dissipate after about 1 hour´s operation. It is a good idea
to ensure eective ventilation during this phase. Also, avoid touching the stove
during the curing process.
The stove will expand and contract during the lighting and cooling phase, possi-
bly resulting in creaking noises. This phenomenon is completely normal for steel
stoves.
Unlike radiant heat, which is highly concentrated
around the stove, convection heat ows upwards
and spreads to neighboring rooms.
Before installation, it is also important to check that the Vermiculite panels are correctly
tted in the combustion chamber.
The wood holder in the combustion chamber is not to be removed.
On some bae plates you will nd a metal band. This band is mounted for trans-
port protection only, and should be removed.
5. Heat generation and distribution
All Jydepejsen wood-burning stoves are two stoves in one. Inside is the actual stove,
produced from strong steel plates, and on the outside a covering of steel, ceramic tiles
or soapstone. There are two major types of heat: radiant heat and convection heat. In the
airspace between the actual stove and the covering, convection heat is generated. The air
is drawn in at the bottom of the rebox. The heated air then ows upwards and begins to
circulate throughout the room, subsequently dispersing into the neighboring rooms, pro-
viding perfect heat distribution. So the question of where to position your stove is an im-
portant one. The ideal location is fairly central, in the room where you require most heat.
11

12
6. Sensible wood burning
When dry wood is burned in a wood-burning stove the following process occurs (over a
period of approx. 1 hour):
· After lighting the log starts to dry and heats up.
· After drying the temperature of the wood rises to approx. 300–400° F
(150 - 200° C) and is converted into volatile gases and charcoal.
· As the wood is gasied a certain portion of the gases produced burn and are
converted into carbon dioxide and water. During this phase the temperature
rises to around 1100 - 1500° F (600 - 800° C) and a plentiful supply of air is re-
quired. If the air supply is accidentally reduced, the ames will be smothered,
but this will not stop the conversion of the wood into gas. The unburned gas
will then ow out into the chimney, causing a nuisance outdoors and build up
of creosote.
· Next the charcoal will burn, which requires very little air supply. Finally, new wood
must be laid on the glowing charcoal cinders.
Warning
It is extremely important to ensure that you do not overheat your stove, as
this can cause irreparable damage. This kind of damage is not covered by
the warranty. Extremely high combustion temperatures can occur when using inappro-
priate fuel, such as kiln-dried wood, coal, pressure-treated wood, scrap wood. NEVER USE
GASOLINE, GASOLINETYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR
SIMILAR LIQUIDS TO START OR ‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS HEATER. KEEP ALL SUCH
LIQUIDS WELL AWAY FROM THE HEATER WHILE IT IS IN USE.
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS
DO NOT STORE SOLID FUEL WITHIN SPACE HEATER INSTALLATION CLEARANCES
OR WITHIN THE SPACE REQUIRED FOR CHARGING AND ASH REMOVAL.
Incorrect wood burning
Too much air supplied to the combustion process causes an uncontrollable re
that will heat the entire stove very rapidly to an extremely high temperature. This
can happen if you re with conditions that produce an extra-strong draft in the
chimney. Never ll the stove completely with wood. It is better to heat a stove up
slowly. This will prevent cracked tiles/soapstone, damage to welds and annealing
of the iron. Overlling the rebox also substantially reduces the useful life of the
vermiculite panels, as cracks are more easily caused. The log size should be about
2“ (5 cm) less than the width of the rebox. Start slowly with a “normal” re from
the bottom, and slowly build it up to a maximum of three logs.
7. Technical information on wood burning
1 kilo of dry wood is made up of 20% water, with the remaining 80% divided into 60%
gas and 20% charcoal. The 60% gas only contains around half the energy content of the
wood, while the 20% charcoal contains the other half. To achieve optimum combustion,
the temperature must reach 1100 - 1500° F (600 - 800° C). Reload with a few pieces of
wood at a time. If too much wood is placed on a layer of embers, the air supplied will not
be sucient to attain the required temperature, and the gases will disappear out through
the chimney unburned. It is vital to supply air to the re immediately after adding fuel, so
there are ames in the rebox, and the gases burn. (Refer to the Refueling section 9 for
further guidance).

Remember that three logs will burn just as quickly as one
The quantity of rewood determines the heat emission - the more heat you re-
quire, the more wood you should add at each refueling.
Types of fuel and heating values
All the stoves are constructed and approved for burning wood.
Combustion involves conversion of the fuel from solid form into gases, water
vapor and charcoal. The heating value is an expression of the content of combu-
stible gases - stated in kcal/kg. All wood has roughly the same heating value per
kilogram. The lighter the wood, the more that must be used to achieve the same
heating value as with a heavier species of wood.
Type of wood Dry wood - Lbs./ft3 (Kg/m3) Compare to beech
Beech and oak 36.2 (580) 100%
Ash 35.6 (570) 98%
Maple 33.7 (540) 93%
Birch 31.8 (510) 88%
Mountain pine 30.0 (480) 83%
Fir 24.3 (390) 67%
Poplar 23.7 (380) 65%
As mentioned, air-dried wood contains around 20% water, corresponding to a
heating value of approx. 4 kWh/kg equivalent to approx. 3440 kcal/kg (1kW = 860
kcal.)
Warning!
NEVER burn impregnated wood, painted wood, laminated plastic,
plywood, chipboard, refuse, milk cartons, prin-
ted matter or similar. Use of such materials
will invalidate your warranty, as this may emit
toxic, corrosive and hazardous fumes when bur-
ned. They may also cause a build-up of the toxic gas dioxin,
which is damaging to the stove and the environment.
Fuel
Recently-felled wood contains 60-70% water and must the-
refore be seasoned before it can be used in a wood-burning
stove. It must be cut, split and air dried, and must contain no more than approx.
25% water before use. This equates to the wood being left in the open for approx.
1 year - covered only to protect against rain.
It is very important to always use pure, dry wood. Damp wood requires a lot of air
for combustion, as extra energy in the form of heat is needed to dry it out. Heat
emission is therefore minimal. When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and
other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote.
The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chim-
ney ue of a slow-burning re. As a result, creosote residue
accumulates on the ue lining. When ignited, this creosote
makes an extremely hot re. The chimney and chimney
connector should be inspected at least once every two
months during the heating season to determine if a creo-
sote buildup has occurred. If creosote has accumulated, it
should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney re.
13

14
8. Air supply and combustion
Preheated air
The stove utilizes a combustion technology involving preheated air. The air sup-
ply for the combustion process comes from an air inlet and is then conducted
through ducts in the stove that become warm when the stove is in use. The ad-
vantage of this technology is that the air is already warm when it enters the re-
box, so a high combustion temperature can be attained very rapidly.
Startup and primary air supply
Most of the stoves are designed with both a startup and primary air vent. The
startup air vent supplies a very direct volume of air, which only serves a purpose
in the lighting phase. The startup air supply should therefore only be used when
lighting the stove. The primary air vent, however, is used for air control once the
stove is lit.
Startup air is dened as combustion air for burning the “mass of wood” and sti-
mulates production of volatile gases.
Primary air is used to burn o the gases at high temperatures (above 1,000°Fah-
renheit (540°C)) and to keep the glass free of soot.
For wood to burn correctly, the right amount of air has to be supplied at the right
time and place.
Air circulation when stoking
In the Jydepejsen DuplicAir
system, the startup and pri-
mary air are combined into
one air supply system.
Primary air
Startup air

There are two other non-adjustable air systems on the stove; secondary air and
direct air.
Secondary air:
To ensure a better combustion of
gasses, the stove is constructed
with secondary air holes in the baf-
e plates. Preheated air is supplied
through these holes, which ensures
burning of the last amount of gases
before they slip out through the
chimney, even if the primary air has
been shut down.
Direct air:
Direct air contributes to a cleaner
and more ecient combustion at
lower temperatures.
Preheated air is supplied directly
into the re and makes sure that the
bed of embers do not die out.
Secondary air ow
Direct air ow
15

9. Preparation for the rst re
Once your stove is installed and all instructions have been read, the rst re can be
started. However, please take careful note of the following:
The baking liner should be removed before the initial lighting. A sudden tempera-
ture change could cause it to crack. Tiles and soapstone are not covered by the
warranty, so ensure that they are at least at room temperature before lighting up
the stove.
The bae plate and vermiculite panels may crack under hard impact. These are
not covered by the warranty, so avoid tossing the wood in the rebox.
Avoid touching the stove during initial res, as the paint is hardening at this sta-
ge. Otherwise this may cause scratches in the paint.
It is a good idea to ensure eective ventilation during the rst ring, as the stove
will generate smoke and an odor of paint. The smoke and paint odor will dissipate
after about 1 hour’s operation and is not hazardous to health.
Do not use grate or elevate Fire – build wood re directly on hearth.
10. Lighting the stove
1. Turn the air wheel to the maximum (startup air)
2. Add crumbled paper / relighters and kindling wood to the bottom of the
re box (combustion chamber).
3. The kindling (about 3 lbs or1.5 kg) is to be built up crosswise.
4. Light the re.
5. The door should be ajar for a couple of minutes during the lighting phase.
6. The air wheel must be adjusted down after approx. 10 minutes (primary air);
how much depends on the chimney draft - however, the air supply must be
diminished to the point where you obtain steady and calm ames.
Once there is a good bed of embers in the stove, you can add wood. It is
important not to open the door while there are ames in the stove, as this
may cause smoke to ow out into the room. Add wood on the basis of your
heating requirements. However, never add more than 4.4 lbs or 2 kg of wood
every 1.5–2 hours. Please remember that the exterior surfaces especially the top and front
of the stove in particular will become very hot during burning.
11. Refueling
1. Turn the air wheel to the maximum.
2. To minimize the back draft, the door should be ajar for about one
minute before you open it completely.
3. Open the door slowly.
4. Add 2 – 3 pieces of rewood to the combustion chamber.
5. Close the door.
6. Turn down the air supply when the re has caught the wood, to
obtain steady and calm ames.
16

12. Troubleshooting
Combustion problems can arise if the combustion conditions are not optimal.
This can be corrected by following the advice given below.
Lighting and burning problems are usually due to wet wood or insuf-
cient draft.
17

13. Maintenance of the stove
Gaskets and vermiculite panels need to be replaced. How often depends on how much
you use your stove. In some cases every year, others every second or third year. Generally,
the gaskets need replacing when it is attened, and the door no longer ts tightly against
the front of the stove. A new set of gaskets with glue can be purchased from your local
dealer. Vermiculite panels must be replaced when they are worn thin, or when possible
cracks are so wide that you can actually see steel through them. If the panels are not
replaced on such occasions, they lose their power of insulation and heat reection.
Movable and mechanical parts should be greased once a year with a heat-resisting
lubricant (closing mechanisms, hinges etc).
Door
Inspect the seals on the door and ashpan front, and replace if they will not close tightly.
If the glass pane is dirty, clean it gently with a warm wet cloth and a little mild detergent,
dipped in ash. Check that the seam between glass panel and door is completely airtight.
If necessary, tighten any screws holding the inner frame in place - but not too hard, as it
could crack the glass. If the glass is still loose, replace the gasket.
Disoposal of ashes
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight tting lid. The closed container
of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible oor or on the ground, well away from
all combustible materials, pending nal disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in
soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all
cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Vermiculite
The heat-reecting and insulating panels in the rebox of all wood-burning stoves from
Jydepejsen are made of vermiculite. This material in its basic form consists of laminated
minerals, and is supplied by an ISO 9001 certied company. Vermiculite poses no health
hazards. It oers various benets in terms of heat reection, insulation and utilization,
thereby helping to provide Jydepejsen stoves with an even higher combustion tempera-
ture, improved degassing of the wood and, consequently, greater eciency in the stove.
If the vermiculite panels are very worn (less than half thickness), new ones should be
ordered. Contact your dealer, who will be happy to assist you. You can check page 20 to
see how the panels are tted in the stove.
Cleaning guide
A wood-burning stove should be thoroughly inspected and cleaned at least once
during the course of the heating season. Check the stove only when it is cold.
Before sweeping of your stove, the bae plates should be removed. This will allow loose
soot from the chimney to drop into the rebox. See page 20 - instructions on how to
change the vermiculite panels.
The air control should be closed to prevent soot and ash spilling into the room.
After sweeping, clean any soot and ash from the vermiculite holders in the rebox. The
bae plates can then be put back in place.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney re.
18

Ash
All wood-burning stoves from Jydepejsen have a large ashpan. Empty it before
it lls completely, and do not allow the ash to collect in a cone under the shaker
grate. Ash is an excellent insulator, and so the temperature of the grate can get
very hot, and the grate could be damaged.
External maintenance
Maintenance of Jydepejsen wood-burning stoves is pretty much the same as for
the rest of your furniture: use a cloth and mild soapy water without solvents. Af-
ter cleaning, wipe the stove with a dry cloth. The stove can be carefully repainted,
as necessary, using Senotherm 12-1644 aerosol paint in either black or grey, as ap-
propriate for your particular stove. This paint can be purchased from your stove
dealer.
Ceramic tiles and soapstone
The nished ceramic tile
Dimensional accuracy and colorfastness are trade requirements and demonstrate
the quality level of the tile manufacturer.
With natural raw materials, variations and shading may occur or small ne glazing
cracks and clouding may form. Modern technology ensures that such reactions in
the surface structure do not aect the quality of the nished tile. These textures
in the surface are therefore not aws, but rather a mark of the craftsmanlike indi-
viduality.
If you discover any visible cracks in your ceramic tiles on unpacking, please con-
tact your dealer immediately.
Cleaning ceramic tiles
Ceramic from Jydepejsen is simple to maintain. Wiping the tiles with a damp cloth
is generally adequate. For more stubborn marks, use a little mild soapy water.
Like other natural products, ceramic tiles cannot tolerate strong acids or leaching
solutions. So, avoid strong detergents. With correct and careful maintenance your
ceramic tiles will radiate heat and character for many years to come.
Production of soapstone
Manufacturing the large soapstone blocks is a very expensive process. The pre-
paration involves rough and ne cutting, shaping and bevelling, regular quality
control, nal inspection of each soapstone tile and selection of sets of soapstone
tiles.
Dimensional accuracy is required, but soapstone is a natural product, and sha-
ding will certainly occur. This is a mark of nature’s own unique design.
If you discover any visible cracks in your soapstone tiles on unpacking, please
contact your dealer immediately.
19

Cleaning soapstone
Soapstone is very simple to clean. Wiping the soapstone with a damp well-
squeezed cloth soaked in lukewarm water is generally sucient. Avoid all types
of detergent. Any minor scratches can be carefully removed using very ne
sandpaper. Should any of your soapstone tiles need repairing, please contact
your dealer.
If soapstone is heated to more than 932° F (500° C), brownish blotches will
appear on it. Should this occur, it is a question of the soapstone having been
overheated, which is not covered by the warranty. With correct maintenance
the soapstone cladding on your stove will retain its beautiful and individual
character for many years to come.
Replacing door gaskets (except the Cubic series)
1. Remove the gasket from the inner frame and clean the band mark (it is not
necessary to remove the door from the stove).
2. Add a band of heat-resistant glue on the band mark.
3. Push new gasket down into the mark.
4. Close the door and let the glue harden for about 24 hours, before you open
the door again. If you do not let the glue harden suciently before you
open the door, the gasket may fall out.
Replacing the gasket at the glass (except the Cubic series)
1. Lift the door from the hinges and place it on a at base.
2. Dismount bolts / screws from the inner frame.
3. Dismount the bolt and the ratchet that hold the handle.
4. Lift o the inner frame.
5. Remove the old gasket from the glass.
6. Add new gasket to the glass.
Remounting of the glass takes place in the opposite order.
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Change of the vermiculite panels
1. Lift up and turn the lower bae plate
a little, pull it down along the side
panels and out through the door.
2. Remove the two side panels in the
front.
3. Remove the two side panels in the
back.
4. Now you can remove the upper bae
plate.