Jydepejsen Trendline 1+2+3 User manual

Report # 301-S-02c-4
UL 1482(2010) and S627-00(2000)
- Read this manual carefully and save these instructions
Installation and user manual
Trendline 1+2+3
Troja 1+2+3
Softline
Fineline 1+2
Zeus
Athene
Hera
Avanti
Cubic 109-166-215
Cubic Corner
Cubic Wall
Cubic W200
Cosmo Models
Manufactured by:
Ahornsvinget 3-7 DK-7500 Holstebro
T.+45 96101200 F.+45 97425216
www.jydepejsen.com
Imported by:
PO Box 120 Pound Ridge NY 10576
T.914-764-5679 F.914-764-0465
www.wittus.com

Contents
Description
Page
1.
Wood-burning stoves from Jydepejsen A/S
2
2.
Before installing your stove
3
3.
Chimney
7
4.
Chimney connector
7
5.
Heat generation and distribution
10
6.
Sensible wood burning
11
7.
Technical information on wood burning
11
8.
Air supply and combustion
13
9.
Preparation for the first fire
15
10.
Lighting the stove
15
11.
Refueling
15
12.
Troubleshooting
16
13.
Maintenance of the stove
17
14.
Warranty
21
15.
Spare parts list
21
1
Version –7/12

2
1. Wood-burning stoves from Jydepejsen A/S
A wood burning stove from Jydepejsen A/S is a quality Danish product. Our stoves have
been providing a cheerful, cozy atmosphere and excellent savings on heating in many
homes since the company was founded in 1979.
We continue to produce stoves that are among the best on the market. The key factors
are simple operation, optimum combustion, timeless design and environmental
awareness.
From the start we created innovations that have since become the norm for quality
European stoves. In many respects these pioneering ideas have helped Denmark
maintain its position as Europe's leading producer of wood burning steel stoves. In the
production, research & development we work purposefully towards reducing
environmental impact. It is also important to us that our stoves achieve environmentally
friendly combustion, which is ensured by Jydepejsen's long-standing design principles.
All the products in this manual have been rated to 81% efficiency.
To realize our mission of environment friendly combustion, it is your responsibility as a
consumer to use the correct fuel and operate your stove according to the instructions.
The aim of this manual is to guide and instruct stove owners in proper burning, and to
minimize the risk of incorrect operation of the stove.
Failure to follow instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.
It is therefore very important to read this manual carefully, and save the instructions.
Correct operation is also vital with regard to our applicable warranty terms.
Consult your local Building Inspector or Fire Marshall before installation to
determine the need to obtain a permit. Also inquire about restrictions and
installation inspection requirements in your area.
For more information on wood burning visit the website http://woodheat.org/.
We suggest that our wood burning heart products be installed and serviced by pro-
fessionals who are certified in the U.S. by the National Fireplace Institute (NFI) or
certified in Canada by the Wood Energy Technical Training (WETT).
Take particular note of this symbol:
This indicates special attention.
Kind regards
All at Jydepejsen A/S

3
2. Before installing your stove
Jydepejsen stoves Cosmo, Cubic, Trend-linel+2+3, Troja 1+2+3, Soft-line, Fine-line, Zeus,
Athene, Hera and Avanti are tested by OMNI-Test Laboratories, Inc. of Oregon and are listed
to UL 1482-2010 and ULC S627-2000. They are also EPA certified and meet the more
stringent WA State Environmental standards.
If the stove is not installed properly, a home fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire, follow the
installation instructions. Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation
inspection requirements in your area.
It is recommended to install a smoke detector in the room or nearby room where the stove is
being installed as a precautionary measure.
DO NOT INSTALL IN A MOBILE HOME.
Floor plate/floor protection
A floor plate of non-combustible material (tempered glass floor plates are acceptable) must
cover under the stove and extend 16" (41 cm) (18" (45 cm) in Canada) in front of the stove
door, 8" (20 cm) beyond the sides of the fuel-loading door, and under the pipe and 2" (5 cm)
beyond each side for back venting. In Canada, the 8" (20 cm) floor protection is required
beyond the sides of the stove and in the back of the stove (0" in the back for the US).
If the material has an R (Thermal resistance) rating use the designated thickness and no
conversion is needed. R values can be added for multi-layered materials.
If the material has a K (Thermal conductivity) rating convert this to an R rating using the
formula R=1/kxt (t=thickness in inches).
If the material has a C (Thermal conductance) rating convert this to an R rating using the
formula R=1/C.
Floor/ foundation wall
The stove must be installed/hanged on a non-combustible foundation/at a non-combustible
wall - i.e. where a tile or brick floor is non-existing, the stove must meet the demands for the
distance to combustible material under/above/beside the stove, according to applicable
legislative requirements. Consult you dealer before installing the stove.
Wall and corner models
If you have a Cubic Wall/Cubic Corner/Cubic W200 the stove must be installed with the
enclosed furnishings and should meet the NFPA211 guidelines. The installation must not
weaken the chimney construction. The anchoring must be done in consultation with your
dealer/chimney sweep.
Cubic 166/215
The tall models may reach the ceiling (or less than the 18" clearance). If the unit does not meet
the proper clearance to the ceiling, the chimney pipe must be used to connect to the fire box.

4
MINIMUM CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLES
Description Trendline 1-2-3/ Troja 1-2-3/ Softline/ Cosmo
Zeus/ Athene/ Hera/ Avanti/ Fineline 1-2
Cubic 109/166/215/Wall/W200/Corner
A. DISTANCE TO SIDE WALL US/CANADA 18" (46 cm)
B. DISTANCE TO BACK WALL US/CANADA 10" (25 cm)
C. CORNER DISTANCE TO SIDE WALLS US/CANADA 7" (18 cm)
D. CONNECTOR PIPE TO SIDE WALL US/CANADA 26" (65 cm)
E. CONNECTOR PIPE TO BACK WALL US/CANADA 16" (41 cm)
F. CORNER PIPE TO SIDE WALLS US/CANADA 16" (41 cm)
G. DISTANCE TO FURNITURE US/CANADA 36" (92 cm
H. FRONT FLOOR PROTECTION US 16" (41 cm)
CANADA 18" (46 cm)
I. SIDE FLOOR PROTECTION US 8" (20 cm)
beyond the sides of the fuel loading door
CANADA 8" (20 cm)
beyond the sides of the stove
J. DISTANCE TO WALL (TURNABLE) US/CANADA 40" (100 cm)
K. CONNECTOR PIPE TO WALL (TURNABLE) US/CANADA 48" (120 cm)
CEILING TO TOP OF STOVE US/CANADA 36" (92 cm)
CEILING TO CONNECTOR PIPE US/CANADA 18" (46 cm)
Note: A heat shield or protective wall may be used to reduce clearances if approved by the
regulatory authority. Clearances to noncombustible materials are 2" (5cm), but note that
"noncombustible" must be solid cement or cement block (not brick or tile over combustible
material).

r
L
CUBIC CORNER
5
DIAGRAMS FOR CUBIC SERIES
CUBIC WALL
CUBIC WALL
A
I
H G
CUBIC CORNER
CUBIC 109/166/215
L

6
Installation of Trendline 2 without the turntable feature
If the Trendline 2 stove is to be used without the turntable feature (screws still attached),
please follow the standard installation procedures (page 5) under Wall View and Corner View
for the correct clearances.
Installation of Trendline 2 with the turntable
If the Trendline 2 is being used with the turntable feature, first remove the locking screws
located under the stove's firebox (as shown below). This allows the stove to turn freely within
its 90° range. Position and center the stove properly as described:
Turn the stove to the left most position. Measure and insure that all the standard required
clearances are met in that position.
Turn the stove to the right most position. Measure and insure that all the standard required
clearances are met in that position as well.
Make adjustments until all the clearances are met in both positions. These include stove, pipe,
and floor plate clearances.
If placed in the center of a room (with a 360° turn range), remember that all clearances to
combustible materials must be 36" for the Trendline 2.
IMPORTANT - Failure to follow these instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or
even death. You must follow the specific clearances for the turn-table feature in order not to void
the warranty and liability coverage.

7
3. Chimney
The Jydepejsen stoves must be installed using a Class A UL 103 HT approved factory-built
chimney system or a code-approved masonry chimney with a flue liner. In Canada, the
installation must conform to NFPA 211 or CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid-Fuel-
Burning Appliances and Equipment guidelines and methods. The chimney must extend
through the roof at least 3' (1 m), and 2' (6 m) above any structure within 10' (3 m). The condition
of the chimney and height is very important. We suggest a total minimum height of 10' (3 m).
Both the chimney and the required chimney connector must be in good condition and kept clean.
Note! Mount the special collar using the included hardware. When installing the first piece of
pipe (at the stove), place the pipe over the collar (except on the Trendline 2 where the crimped
end goes inside the collar!), which is designed so any moisture or creosote will drip back into the
stove and burn away. If using a crimped pipe, trim or cut that section off at the bottom and place
it over the collar. Install the remaining stovepipe segments with the crimped end down whenever
possible. The hole in the casting is designed for any moisture to drip back into the stove.
Required Installation Components
A.Chimney cap
B.Insulated chimney
C.Storm collar
D.Roof flashing
E.Ceiling support box or joist
shield / firestop spacer
F.Chimney connector pipe
4. Chimney connector
Aluminum and galvanized steel pipe is not
acceptable for use with our woodstove. These
materials cannot withstand the extreme temperatures
of a wood fire and can give off toxic fumes when
heated.
Do not use the connector pipe as a chimney.
Each chimney connector or chimney connector
section must be installed to the stove flue collar and
to each other with the male (crimped) end toward the
stove.
Chimney Connector

8
This prevents any amount of condensed or liquid creosote from running down the outside of
the pipe or the stove top. All joints, including the flue collar connection must be secured with
three sheet metal screws to ensure that the sections do not separate. For the best
performance the chimney connector should be as short and direct as possible, with no more
than two 90° elbows. The maximum horizontal run is 36" and a recommended total length of
chimney connector should not exceed 10 feet. Always slope horizontal runs upward 1/4"per
foot toward the chimney. Note the chimney connector pipe should not pass through an attic
or roof space, closet or similar concealed space, or a floor or ceiling.
DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION
DUCTWORK (unless specifically approved for such installations).
DO NOT CONNECT WITH ANY SYSTEM SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
For venting vertically into a Class A chimney, single wall pipe (at least 24 gauge) may be
used in the room where the stove is installed. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for
the connection to the listed chimney. The chimney/chimney connector must not be smaller
than 6" (15 cm) in diameter. For venting directly into a masonry chimney or through a
thimble, the top of the single wall pipe must be at least 18" (46 cm) below a combustible
ceiling and conform to NFPA 211 or CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid-Fuel-
Burning Appliances and Equipment guidelines and methods. See diagram below.
Fresh air
Modern, well-insulated buildings should have fresh-air vents to admit fresh air from outside.
Modern buildings are now so well insulated that the volume of air indoors can be low. A
regular supply of air to the building from outside prevents negative pressure indoors.
For rear venting or other not listed configurations, consult the local building codes and follow
the NFPA 211 or CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid-Fuel-Burning Appliances and
Equipment guidelines. If the chimney connector is fitted with a baffle, it must be manually
operated, visibly placed for ease of use, and must not close completely. Consult your chimney
expert if you have any questions.
Make sure that there is easy access to the chimney cleanout door.
Read the instructions on page 7 carefully before connecting: "Chimney
Connector Systems and Clearances from Combustible Walls for
Residential Heating Appliances".
Chimney
Flue
Masonry
Insulated
Chimney
Connector Pipe
18”(46cm)
below
ceiling
Min.
2”(5cm)
Min.
2”(5cm)

9
Chimney Connector Systems and Clearances from Combustible Walls for
Residential Heating Appliances
A. Minimum 3.5 in (90 mm) thick brick masonry
all framed into combustible wall with a
minimum of 12-in (305 mm) brick separation
from clay liner to combustibles. The fireclay
liner (ASTM 315, Standard Specification for
Clay Fire Linings, or equivalent) minimum 5/8
in (16 mm) wall thickness, shall run from outer
surface of brick wall to, but not beyond, the
inner surface of chimney flue liner and shall
be firmly cemented in place.
B. Solid-insulated, listed factory-built chimney
length of the same inside diameter as the
chimney connector and having 1 in (25.4 mm)
or more of insulation with a minimum 9 in (229
mm) air space between the outer wall of the
chimney length and combustibles. The inner
end of the chimney length shall be flush with
the inside of the masonry chimney flue and
shall be sealed to the flue and to the brick
masonry penetration with non-water-soluble
refractory cement. Supports shall be securely
fastened to wall surfaces on all sides.
Fasteners between supports and the chimney
length shall not penetrate the chimney liner.
C. Sheet steel chimney connector, minimum 24
gauge (.024 in./.61 mm) in thickness, with a
ventilated thimble, minimum 24 gauge (.024
in/.61 mm) in thickness, having two 1 in (25.4
mm) air channels, separated from
combustibles by a minimum of 6 in (152 mm)
of glass fiber insulation. Opening shall be
covered, and thimble supported with a sheet
steel support, minimum 24 gauge (.024 in/.61
mm) in thickness. Supports shall be securely
fastened to wall surfaces on all sides and
shall be sized to fit and hold chimney section.
Fasteners used to secure chimney section
shall not penetrate chimney flue liner.
D. Solid insulated, listed factory-built chimney
length with an inside diameter 2 in (51 mm)
larger than the chimney connector and having
1 in (25.4 mm) or more of insulation, serving
as a pass-through for a single wall sheet steel
chimney connector of minimum 24 gauge
(.024 in/.61 mm) thickness, with a minimum 2
in (51 mm) air space between the outer wall of
chimney section and combustibles. Minimum
length of chimney section shall be 12 in (305
mm) chimney section spaced 1 in (25.4 mm)
away from connector using sheet steel
support plates on both ends of chimney
section. Opening shall be covered, and
chimney section supported on both sides with
sheet steel supports securely fastened to wall surfaces of minimum 24 gauge (.024 in/.61 mm) thickness.
Fasteners used to secure chimney section shall not penetrate chimney flue liner.

10
Before installation, it is also important to check that the Vermiculite panels are correctly fitted in
the combustion chamber.
The wood holder in the combustion chamber is not to be removed.
On some baffle plates you will find a metal band. This band is mounted for transport protection
only, and should be removed.
5. Heat generation and distribution
All Jydepejsen wood-burning stoves are two stoves in one. Inside is the actual stove, produced
from strong steel plates, and on the outside a covering of steel, ceramic tiles or soapstone.
There are two major types of heat: radiant heat and convection heat. In the airspace between
the actual stove and the covering, convection heat is generated. The air is drawn in at the
bottom of the firebox. The heated air then flows upwards and begins to circulate throughout the
room, subsequently dispersing into the neighboring rooms, providing perfect heat distribution.
So the question of where to position your stove is an important one. The ideal location is fairly
central, in the room where you require most heat. Unlike radiant heat, which is highly
concentrated around the stove,
convection heat flows upwards and
spreads to neighboring rooms.
It is very important to ensure that your
chimney has a good draft. Your dealer or
your chimney sweep will be able to guide
and advise on your chimney conditions.
Ensure that there is sufficient combustion
air in the room in which the stove is
installed, which can be sourced from
another room or from an outside air
supply. Rooms with negative pressure
(e.g. use of exhaust fan) or newer air-tight
buildings are particularly suited for air
supply from outside. An outdoor air
supply is available as an option, and
should be installed by a qualified person.
Follow the operating instructions and use
seasoned wood, which burns easier and
cleaner in the combustion chamber, until
a proper draft is obtained. For further
information on using wood and lighting
and managing the fire, please refer to
sections 5 - 10.
Please note that the stove paint will harden during the first few initial fires. This means that the
stove will generate smoke and an odor of paint, which will dissipate after about 1 hour's
operation. It is a good idea to ensure effective ventilation during this phase. Also, avoid touching
the stove during the curing process.
The stove will expand and contract during the lighting and cooling phase, possibly resulting in
creaking noises. This phenomenon is completely normal for steel stoves.

11
6. Sensible wood burning
When dry wood is burned in a wood-burning stove the following process occurs (over a period of
approx. 1 hour):
After lighting the log starts to dry and heats up.
After drying the temperature of the wood rises to approx. 300 - 400° F (150 - 200°C) and
is converted into volatile gases and charcoal.
As the wood is gasified a certain portion of the gases produced burn and are converted
into carbon dioxide and water. During this phase the temperature rises to around 1100 -
1500° F (600 - 800° C) and a plentiful supply of air is required. If the air supply is
accidentally reduced, the flames will be smothered, but this will not stop the conversion
of the wood into gas. The unburned gas will then flow out into the chimney, causing a
nuisance outdoors and build up of creosote.
Next the charcoal will burn, which requires very little air supply. Finally, new wood must
be laid on the glowing charcoal cinders.
Warning - It is extremely important to ensure that you do not overheat your stove,
as this can cause irreparable damage. This kind of damage is not covered by the
warranty. Extremely high combustion temperatures can occur when using
inappropriate fuel, such as kiln-dried wood, coal, pressure-treated wood, scrap wood.
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START THE FIRE.
DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAMMABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE,
NAPHTHA, OR ENGINE OIL.
NEVER USE GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL, LIGHTER
FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS TO START OR `FRESHEN UP' A FIRE.
KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS WELL AWAY FROM THE HEATER WHILE IT IS IN USE.
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.
DO NOT STORE SOLID FUEL WITHIN SPACE HEATER INSTALLATION CLEARANCES OR
WITHIN THE SPACE REQUIRED FOR CHARGING AND ASH REMOVAL.
WARNING - Do not use substitute materials for glass replacement.
Incorrect wood burning
Too much air supplied to the combustion process causes an uncontrollable fire that will heat the
entire stove very rapidly to an extremely high temperature. This can happen if you fire with
conditions that produce an extra-strong draft in the chimney. Never fill the stove completely with
wood. It is better to heat a stove up slowly. This will prevent cracked tiles/soapstone, damage to
welds and annealing of the iron. Overfilling the firebox also substantially reduces the useful life
of the vermiculite panels, as cracks are more easily caused. The log size should be about 2" (5
cm) less than the width of the firebox. Start slowly with a "normal" fire from the bottom, and
slowly build it up to a maximum of three logs.
7. Technical information on wood burning
1 kilo of dry wood is made up of 20% water, with the remaining 80% divided into 60% gas and
20% charcoal. The 60% gas only contains around half the energy content of the wood, while the
20% charcoal contains the other half. To achieve optimum combustion, the temperature must
reach 1100 - 1500° F (600 - 800° C). Reload with a few pieces of wood at a time. If too much
wood is placed on a layer of embers, the air supplied will not be sufficient to attain the required
temperature, and the gases will disappear out through the chimney unburned. It is vital to supply
air to the fire immediately after adding fuel, so there are flames in the firebox, and the gases
burn. (Refer to the Refueling section 9 for further guidance).

12
Remember that three logs will burn just as quickly as one
The quantity of firewood determines the heat emission - the more heat you require, the more
wood you should add at each refueling.
Types of fuel and heating values
All the stoves are constructed and approved for burning wood.
Combustion involves conversion of the fuel from solid form into gases, water vapor and
charcoal. The heating value is an expression of the content of combustible gases - stated
in kcal/kg. All wood has roughly the same heating value per kilogram. The lighter the
wood, the more that must be used to achieve the same heating value as with a heavier
species of wood.
Type of wood Dry wood - Lbs./ft3 (Kg/m3) Compare to beech
Beech and oak 36.2 (580) 100%
Ash 35.6 (570) 98%
Maple 33.7 (540) 93%
Birch 31.8 (510) 88%
Mountain pine 30.0 (480) 83%
Fir 24.3 (390) 67%
Poplar 23.7 (380) 65%
As mentioned, air-dried wood contains around 20% water, corresponding to a heating value
of approx. 4 kWh/kg equivalent to approx. 3440 kcal/kg (1 kW = 860 kcal.)
WARNING! NEVER burn impregnated wood, painted
wood, laminated plastic, plywood, chipboard, refuse, milk
cartons, printed matter, charcoal, or similar. Use of such
materials will invalidate your warranty, as this may emit
toxic, corrosive and hazardous fumes when burned. They
may also cause a buildup of the toxic gas dioxin or carbon
monoxide, which is damaging to the stove and the
environment and may cause bodily harm or death.
Fuel
Recently-felled wood contains 60-70% water and must therefore be
seasoned before it can be used in a wood-burning stove. It must be
cut, split, and air dried, and must contain no more than approx. 25%
water before use. This equates to the wood being left in the open for
approx. 1 year - covered only to protect against rain.
It is very important to always use pure, dry wood. Damp wood requires a
lot of air for combustion, as extra energy in the form of heat is needed to
dry it out. Heat emission is therefore minimal.
Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which
combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in
the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue
accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot
fire. The chimney and chimney connector should be inspected at least once every
two months during the heating season to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred. If
creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
If a significant layer of creosote has accumulated (3 mm or more), it should be removed to
reduce the risk of a chimney fire. In case of chimney fire shut down all air regulations.

13
8. Air supply and combustion
Preheated air
The stove utilizes a combustion technology involving preheated air. The air supply for the
combustion process comes from an air inlet and is then conducted through ducts in the stove
that become warm when the stove is in use. The advantage of this technology is that the air is
already warm when it enters the firebox, so a high combustion temperature can be attained very
rapidly.
Startup and primary air supply
Most of the stoves are designed with both a startup and primary air vent. The startup air vent
supplies a very direct volume of air, which only serves a purpose in the lighting phase. The
startup air supply should therefore only be used when lighting the stove. The primary air vent,
however, is used for air control once the stove is lit.
Startup air is defined as combustion air for burning the "mass of wood" and stimulates
production of volatile gases.
Primary air is used to burn off the gases at high temperatures (above 1,000° Fahrenheit (540°
C)) and to keep the glass free of soot.
For wood to burn correctly, the right amount of air has to be supplied at the right time and place.
Startup air
In the Jydepejsen DuplicAir
system, the startup and primary air
are combined into one air supply
system.
Air circulation when stoking

14
There are two other non-adjustable air systems on the stove; secondary air and direct air.
Secondary air:
To ensure a better combustion of gasses, the
stove is constructed with secondary air holes in the
baffle plates.
Preheated air is supplied through these holes,
which ensures burning of the last amount of gases
before they slip out through the chimney, even if
the primary air has been shut down.
Secondary air flow
Direct air:
Direct air contributes to a cleaner and more efficient
combustion at lower temperatures.
Preheated air is supplied directly into the fire and
makes sure that the bed of embers do not die out.
Directairflow

15
9. Preparation for the first fire
Once your stove is installed and all instructions have been read, the first fire can be started.
However, please take careful note of the following:
The baking liner should be removed before the initial lighting. A sudden temperature change could
cause it to crack. Tiles and soapstone are not covered by the warranty, so ensure that they are at
least at room temperature before lighting up the stove.
The baffle plate and vermiculite panels may crack under hard impact. These are not covered by
the warranty, so avoid tossing the wood in the firebox.
Avoid touching the stove during initial fires, as the paint is hardening at this stage. Otherwise this
may cause scratches in the paint.
It is a good idea to ensure effective ventilation during the first firing, as the stove will generate
smoke and an odor of paint. The smoke and paint odor will dissipate after about 1 hour's
operation and is not hazardous to health.
Do not use grate or elevate Fire —build wood fire directly on hearth.
10. Lighting the stove
1. Turn the air wheel to the maximum (startup air)
2. Add crumbled paper / firelighters and kindling wood to the bottom of the
fire box (combustion chamber).
3. The kindling (about 3 lbs or 1.5 kg) is to be built up crosswise.
4. Light the fire.
5. The door should be ajar for a couple of minutes during the lighting phase.
6. The air wheel must be adjusted down after approx. 10 minutes (primary air); how much
depends on the chimney draft - however, the air supply must be diminished to the point
where you obtain steady and calm flames.
Caution: Do not build the fire to close to the glass because damage to the door can occur.
Once there is a good bed of embers in the stove, you can add wood. It is important
not to open the door while there are flames in the stove, as this may cause smoke
to flow out into the room. Add wood on the basis of your heating requirements.
However, never add more than 4.4 lbs or 2 kg of wood every 1.5 - 2 hours. Keep
the doors closed during normal operation. Please remember that the exterior
surfaces especially the top and front of the stove in particular will become very hot during
burning. Do not operate the stove if the glass is broken.
11. Refueling
1. Turn the air wheel to the maximum.
2. To minimize the back draft, the door should be ajar for about one
minute before you open it completely.
3. Open the door slowly.
4. Add 2 - 3 pieces of firewood to the combustion chamber.
5. Close the door.
6. Turn down the air supply when the fire has caught the wood, to obtain steady and calm
flames.

16
12. Troubleshooting
Combustion problems can arise if the combustion conditions are not optimal. This can be corrected
by following the advice given below.
Problem
Explanation
Remedy
Insufficient draft
•
The flue vent is closed.
The access hatch In the
chimney Is defective or missing
The chimney Is blocked by a
bird's nest or similar.
The flue pipe is sooted up, or
there is an accumulation of soot
on top of the baffle plate.
The chimney is too small.
The baffle plate may be
positioned incorrectly.
Negative pressure in the house
■
Open the flue vent.
Contact your chimney sweep/stove
dealer for further advice, or clean the
flue pipe and firebox.
Check the fitting of the baffle plate –
see the operating instructions.
In well-insulated buildings negative
pres-awe can occur - increase the air
supply to the room.
Too much draft
•
•
The baffle plate may be
positioned incorrectly.
If using kiln-dried wood, this
requires less air than normal
wood.
The air vent is constantly wide
open.
The sealing strips on the door
are worn and pressed
completely flat.
The chimney is too large.
Check the fitting of the baffle plate -
see the operating instructions.
Reduce the air supply.
Check the sealing strips. If these are
worn, replace them as described In the
operating instructions.
Contact your chimney sweep/stove
dealer for further advice.
The glass pane is
sooting up
■
The wood is too wet.
The air vent is not sufficiently
open.
•
Dry wood with a maximum of 20%
moisture should be used.
The air vent must be opened to supply
more air for combustion.
Clouded glass or
with white film
a
Poor combustion (too low
temperature in the stove).
Incorrect combustion (burning
waste wood, painted wood,
impregnated wood, laminated
plastic, ply wood or similar.)
■
Follow the instructions for correct
burning as specified in this manual.
Ensure that you use pure, dry wood in
your stove.
Smoke comes out
Into the room when
the door is opened
•
Pressure compensation is
occurring in the firebox.
The chimney is not a suitable
size for the firebox.
•
Open the air vent wide for about 1 min.
before opening the door - avoid
opening the door rapidly.
Check the height of the chimney. It may
be too short for the minimum draught
required from the chimney.
White smoke
•
The combustion temperature is
too low.
The wood is too damp and
contains water vapor.
■
Increase the air supply.
Always ensure that you use pure, dry
wood in your stove.
Black or grayish
black smoke
■
Incomplete combustion.
•
Increase the air supply.
Lighting and burning problems are usually
due to wet wood or insufficient draft.

17
13. Maintenance of the stove
Gaskets and vermiculite panels need to be replaced. How often depends on how much you use
your stove. In some cases every year, others every second or third year. Generally, the gaskets
need replacing when it is flattened, and the door no longer fits tightly against the front of the
stove. A new set of gaskets with glue can be purchased from your local dealer.
Vermiculite panels must be replaced when they are worn thin, or when possible cracks are so
wide that you can actually see steel through them. If the panels are not replaced on such
occasions, they lose their power of insulation and heat reflection. Movable and mechanical parts
should be greased once a year with a heat-resisting lubricant (closing mechanisms, hinges etc).
Door
Inspect the seals on the door and ash pan front, and replace if they will not close tightly. If the
glass pane is dirty, clean it gently with a warm wet cloth and a little mild detergent, dipped in ash.
Check that the seam between glass panel and door is completely airtight. If necessary, tighten
any screws holding the inner frame in place - but not too hard, as it could crack the glass. If the
glass is still loose, replace the gasket. It is important to maintain all seals in good condition.
WARNING: DO NOT CLEAN THE GLASS WHEN THE STOVE IS HOT.
Disposal of ashes
Ashes should be placed in a steel container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes
should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible
materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly
cooled. Other waste shall not be placed in the metal container.
Vermiculite
The heat-reflecting and insulating panels in the firebox of all wood-burning stoves from
Jydepejsen are made of vermiculite. This material in its basic form consists of laminated
minerals, and is supplied by an ISO 9001 certified company. Vermiculite poses no health
hazards. It offers various benefits in terms of heat reflection, insulation and utilization, thereby
helping to provide Jydepejsen stoves with an even higher combustion temperature, improved
degassing of the wood and, consequently, greater efficiency in the stove.
If the vermiculite panels are very worn (less than half thickness), new ones should be ordered.
Contact your dealer, who will be happy to assist you. You can check page 17 to see how the
panels are fitted in the stove.
Cleaning guide
The wood-burning stove (including the chimney and chimney connector) should be thoroughly
checked and cleaned at least once during the course of the heating season. The flue gas outlet
above the flue gas baffle and the stove connector should be inspected in particular. Check the
stove only when it is cold.
Before sweeping of your stove, the baffle plates should be removed. This will allow loose soot
from the chimney to drop into the firebox. See page 19 - instructions on how to change the
vermiculite panels. The air control should be closed to prevent soot and ash spilling into the
room. After sweeping, clean any soot and ash from the vermiculite holders in the firebox. The
baffle plates can then be put back in place.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire. Do not
use abrasive cleaners when you clean your stove at the in/outside.

18
Ash
All wood-burning stoves from Jydepejsen have a large ashpan. Empty it before it fills
completely, and do not allow the ash to collect in a cone under the shaker grate. Ash is an
excellent insulator, and so the temperature of the grate can get very hot, and the grate could
be damaged.
External maintenance
Maintenance of Jydepejsen wood-burning stoves is pretty much the same as for the rest
of your furniture: use a cloth and mild soapy water without solvents. After cleaning, wipe
the stove with a dry cloth. The stove can be carefully repainted, as necessary, using
Senotherm 12-1644 aerosol paint in either black or grey, as appropriate for your
particular stove. This paint can be purchased from your stove dealer.
Ceramic tiles and soapstone
The finished ceramic tile
Dimensional accuracy and colorfastness are trade requirements and demonstrate the quality
level of the tile manufacturer. With natural raw materials, variations and shading may occur or
small fine glazing cracks and clouding may form. Modern technology ensures that such
reactions in the surface structure do not affect the quality of the finished tile. These textures in
the surface are therefore not flaws, but rather a mark of the craftsman’s individuality.
If you discover any visible cracks in your ceramic tiles on unpacking, please contact your
dealer immediately.
Cleaning ceramic tiles
Ceramic from Jydepejsen is simple to maintain. Wiping the tiles with a damp cloth is
generally adequate. For more stubborn marks, use a little mild soapy water. Like other
natural products, ceramic tiles cannot tolerate strong acids or leaching solutions. So,
avoid strong detergents. With correct and careful maintenance your ceramic tiles will
radiate heat and character for many years to come.
Production of soapstone
Manufacturing the large soapstone blocks is a very expensive process. The preparation
involves rough and fine cutting, shaping and beveling, regular quality control, final inspection
of each soapstone tile and selection of sets of soapstone tiles. Dimensional accuracy is
required, but soapstone is a natural product, and shading will certainly occur. This is a mark
of nature's own unique design.
If you discover any visible cracks in your soapstone tiles on unpacking, please contact your
dealer immediately.
Cleaning soapstone
Soapstone is very simple to clean. Wiping the soapstone with a damp well-squeezed cloth
soaked in lukewarm water is generally sufficient. Avoid all types of detergent. Any minor
scratches can be carefully removed using very fine sandpaper. Should any of your soapstone
tiles need repairing, please contact your dealer.
If soapstone is heated to more than 932° F (500° C), brownish blotches will appear on it.
Should this occur, it is a question of the soapstone having been overheated, which is not
covered by the warranty. With correct maintenance the soapstone cladding on your stove will
retain its beautiful and individual character for many years to come.

19
Replacing door gaskets (except the Cubic series)
1. Remove the gasket from the inner frame and clean the band mark (it is not necessary to
remove the door from the stove).
2. Add a band of heat-resistant glue on the band mark.
3. Push new gasket down into the mark.
4. Close the door and let the glue harden for about 24 hours, before you open the door
again. If you do not let the glue harden sufficiently before you open the door, the gasket
may fall out.
Replacing the gasket at the glass (except the Cubic series)
1. Lift the door from the hinges and place it on a flat base.
2. Dismount bolts / screws from the inner frame.
3. Dismount the bolt and the ratchet that hold the handle.
4. Lift off the inner frame.
5. Remove the old gasket from the glass.
6. Add new gasket to the glass.
Remounting of the glass takes place in the opposite order.
Replacing door gaskets - Cubic series
1. Remove the gasket from the inner frame
2. Push new gasket down into the groove.
Replacing the gasket at the glass - Cubic series
1. Lift the door from the hinges and place it on a flat base.
2. Dismount bolts and screws from the closing system.
3. Dismount 2 screws at the bottom and 2 screws at the top.
4. Lift off the inner frame.
5. Remove the old gasket from the glass.
6. Add new gasket to the glass.
Remounting of the glass takes place in the opposite order.
Change of the vermiculite panels
1. Lift up and turn the lower baffle plate
a little, pull it down along the side panels and
out through the door.
2. Remove the two side panels in the
front.
3. Remove the two side panels in the
back.
4. Now you can remove the upper baffle
plate.