Louet Jane Assembly instructions

Jane
Instructions for assembly
Instructions for Assembly..............................................................................2
Folding the Jane Loom................................................................................12
Tips and tricks.............................................................................................13
Troubleshooting ..........................................................................................14
Version: Jane-V8-EN

Welcome to Your New Jane Loom
We know you’re going to love your new Jane! Louët is dedicated to bringing
you the most comfortable and enjoyable weaving experience. This manual
provides you with step-by-step assembly instructions, as well as some
commonly asked questions about usage.
A portion of your loom comes pre-assembled. In the below image, we have
labelled the parts and listed the Louët part numbers in parentheses.
1. Right diagonal castle support (HL0013)
2. Left diagonal castle support (HL0054)
3. Metal beater support (BZ0083)
4. Right side of base (HL0058)
5. Left side of base (HL0059)
6. Front beam (J40: HL0060, J70: HL0062, J50: HL0061)
7. Back beam (J40: HL0063, J70: HL0065, J50: HL0064)
8. Warp (or cloth beam) (J40: HL0066, J70: HL0068, J50: HL0067)
9. Top beater support (J40: HL0069, J70: HL0071, J50: HL0070)
10. Bottom beater support (J40: HL0072, J70: HL0074, J50: HL0073)
11. Right side of castle, vertical (J40: HL0075)
12. Left side of castle, vertical (J40: HL0078)

Instructions for Assembly
After you have taken the loom out of the box, remove the cardboard buffers
and wrapped paper.
Open the hardware box which contains (Louët part number):
1. 2 beam handles (HL0076)
2. 4 buffers (BZ0084)
3. 2 black star knobs (BZ0085)
4. 4 dowels with a rubber coating (BZ0086)
5. 2 screws 5 x 50 mm (BS0067)
6. 2 screws 4 x 35 mm (BS0064)
7. 12 screws 4 x 15 mm (BS0061)
8. 2 apron bars (J40: WR0124, J70: WR0125, J50: WR0440)
9. 16 shaft bars (J40: HU0019, J70: HU0021, J50: HU0020)
10. 16 shaft sides (WR0157)
11. 16 warp sticks (J40: WR0119, J70: WR0120, J50: WR0237)
12. 2 lease sticks (J40: WR0129, J70: WR0130, J50: WR0443)
13. 1 Pz2 screwdriver (BZ0049)
14. 2 or 4 bundles of 100-205 mm Texsolv heddles (WA0214)
15. 6 or 8 nylon cords for the shafts (J40: WR0108, J70: WR0114, J50: WR0443)
16. 8 pieces of elastic cord (J40: WR0111, J70: WR0112, J50: WR0444)
17. Texsolv cords for the warp and cloth beams (BZ0060)
18. Shelf with toggles (J40: HA0001, J70: HA0003, J50: HA0002)

1
Turn the loom so that the bottom
is up, and tap in the four dowels
with a rubber coating using a
rubber mallet. You will know you
have reached the bottom of the
holes when the sound changes
when hammering.
Turn the loom back onto its
buffers and unfold it while you
lifting the front slightly.
Install the star knobs onto the
threaded ends that protrude from
the slots in the beater supports.
When the neck of the knob is
screwed into the hole at the end of
the slots, the loom is locked in the
unfolded position and there is no
need to tighten the knobs too
tightly.

2
Use the 5 x 50 mm screws to
attach the shelf with the toggles
onto the loom.
Use the two 4 x 35 mm screws to
attach the handles onto the warp
and cloth beams.
Screw 8 of the 4x15mm screws
into the holes of the clothbeam
and the warpbeam, so that their
heads level with the surface of the
beams.
Hook the ends of the the texsolv
cords around the screw heads
and let them hang

3
Create a half hitch in the texsolv
cord and insert the apron bars, for
a total of 3 times.
The apron bars are marked where
the cord loops should be
positioned.
Tighten the half-hitch-loops by
pulling on the apron bar.
After ensuring the cords at both
sides of the loops have even
tension, mark the middle of the
cords to help attachment of the
bars next time.
Assembling the shafts
Take eight of the shaft sides and
insert two shaft bars into each of
them.

4
Slip a bundle of heddles onto one
of these incomplete shafts and
untie the bundle.
Count the number of heddles that
you will need on a shaft and cut
them apart, using a pair of sharp
scissors.
Insert the bars of another shaft
through the separated bundle and
move the heddles from the first
shaft bars.
Install the second shaft side and
make sure that the eyes at the
end of both shaft sides point in the
same direction.

5
Press the ends of the shaft bars
onto the bottom of the shaft sides
as shown in the picture.
Assemble all eight shafts the
same way.
On each shaft, cut the loops that
connect the heddles.
Make a knot at one end of each
elastic cord at about 1 cm (5/8
inch). Use a fork or your fingers to
pull the knot tight.

6
Thread the cord from the inside
through the hole in the shaft side
and pull the knot into the hollow of
the shaft side.
Thread the other end of the cord
from the outside through the hole
in the other shaft side and make a
knot at that end too. Pull the knot
into the hollow.
Installing the shafts and the cords that connect them to the toggles
Turn the loom upside down, so
that it rests on the back beam and
the top of the castle.
This picture shows the 40 cm
Jane, which has a carrying
handle.
The 70 cm Jane does not have such a handle because it is too wide to
comfortably carry the loom in that way. The 70 cm Jane can best be carried
by turning it 90 degrees and hold it using the cross bar of the castle.

7
A shaft cord has to be attached to
the toggles. Start with the toggle
for the eighth shaft; when the
loom is in the upside down
position shown in the picture, it is
the one at the left.
Take a nylon cord in the middle
and thread it through the hole of
the toggle.
Place the loop around the end of
the toggle as shown on the
picture.
Pull the loop tight and thread both
ends of the cord through the
opening in between the two toggle
hinges and underneath the nylon
roller.

8
Both ends of the cord have to go
between the pair of rollers that line
up with the first toggle.
Lead the ends of the cord to both
sides in a way so that they are not
twisted.
Lead the elastic cord of the shaft
over the rollers at the top
(normally the bottom) of the loom.

9
Attach the cord to the eye of the sides of a shaft. Use the knot shown in the
picture, created as follows: insert the cord from the inside, where the eye
has a sharp edge, and wrap the tail around the notch, tucking the cord so
that it crosses on the outside.
Adjust the position of the shaft as
shown in the picture by changing
the length of the nylon cord. The
distance between the elastic cord
and the bottom of the shaft should
be about 8 mm (5/16”). You can
adjust the shafts more precisely,
later on.
Now, attach a second shaft cord
to the next toggle and lead it
through in between the hinges
and the rollers.

10
Again, lead the cord ends to both
sides, as before. The picture
shows how one cord end runs in
front of the pair of rollers used by
the cord installed previously.
Continue this procedure for each
shaft. After you have connected
all shafts with their toggles, the
cords will form the pattern shown
in the picture.
Turn the loom right-side-up and check the level of the shafts. The clearance
between the bottom of the shafts and the table surface should be about
18mm (3/4”)
To shorten the cord, pull it while moving the end back and forth as shown
on the left picture. The right picture shows how to lengthen the cord; lift the
shaft to isolate the cord and use your nail to pull the end of the cord back.

11
If you want to shorten the ends of
the cords, you will need to melt
the ends after cutting to avoid
unraveling, or cut the cords by
melting. Use a lighter or a
soldering iron.
The plastic pieces act as a catch
on the beater as you swing it
forward, increasing the active
weaving area and creating an
optimal shed.
If your beater does not catch
properly as you move it forward,
you can adjust the plastic pieces
by adjusting the screw, as shown
on the picture.
Using the pilot holes, screw the
four buffers onto the side of the
loom (indicated by red arrows in
the picture). When folded, Jane
can stand on this side.

12
Folding the Jane Loom
Before you fold the loom again,
you have to pull all the toggles
down, so all shafts are lifted.
If there is a warp on the Jane, you
have to release the tension by
taking the ratchet out of the
ratchet wheel on the cloth beam.
Remove the black star knobs that
lock the loom in its folded position.
Lift the loom at the front while you
fold it.
Make sure the star knobs are
removed completely to prevent
damage to the slot in the beater
supports.
Lock the Jane in its folded position
by screwing the black knobs onto
the threaded ends located in the
hole in the beater supports.

13
Tips and tricks
Texsolv heddles
Texsolv heddles consist of a double polyester cord that is connected at
specific distances. This chain of heddles is folded in a zigzag fashion into
bundles of one hundred.
Do not remove the ties from the bundles of heddles before the shafts bars or
something else has been inserted through the bundle openings. The ties are
required to keep the heddles properly organized. If you remove heddles from
a shaft, tie them first into a bundle.
Weave structures that heavily use shafts 1 & 2
With some weave structures there are many warp threads on the first two
shafts. To help these two first shafts to pull so many warp yarns down, you
can temporally increase the tension of the elastic cords by shortening them:
Pull one end of the cord out of the shaft side and make a new knot on a
short distance of the original knot. Don’t make this knot too tight, so it can be
removed easily after you finished your project.
Lease sticks
Do not leave the lease sticks in the warp between the back beam and the
shafts while you are weaving. The effective depth of the loom is reduced if
they are there, and the warp is therefore subjected to an unnecessary
amount of tension when the shed is formed. If you are used to leaving lease
sticks in the warp, keep them between the back beam and the warp beam.
Maintenance
The Jane requires no special maintenance. However, we do recommend
checking the tightness of the screws of the frame after the first couple of
months. This is particularly important when the loom is standing in a dry
environment. Repeat this check every year.

14
Troubleshooting
The shed is too small
Possible cause:
•The fabric has to be advanced.
The handles are hard to lift
Possible causes:
•The tension of the warp is too high.
•The fabric needs to be advanced.
•You left the lease sticks in the warp between the shafts and the back
beam.
The shaft cords come from the rollers
Possible causes:
•You adjusted the shafts too low, so they rest on the elastic cord or on a
roller underneath, resulting in the shaft cords becoming slack.
•The fabric has to be advanced:
When you lift shafts a part of the warp will go up. This will lift the fabric,
which will lift the part of the warp and shafts that should stay down a
bit, as well. When you weave the fabric close to the shafts, this
upwards pull becomes stronger and then the elastic cords cannot keep
the shafts down and the cords of that shafts become slack.
•You left the lease sticks in the warp between the shafts and the back
beam.