Morsø 1440 User manual

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Installation and Operating Instructions
1440
For use in North America
Read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. If this room
heater is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire, follow
the installation instructions. Failure to follow instructions may result in property damage,
bodily injury, or even death.
Contact local building officials about restrictions and installation/inspection-requirements
in your area.
Save these instructions
MORSØ JERNSTØBERI A/S . DK-7900 NYKØBING MORS
E-Mail: [e-mail] · Website: www.morsoe.com
Distributed by: MORSO US LLC
1011 Highway 52 West - Portland TN - 37148 - USA

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We congratulate you on your choice of a Morsø stove. Morsø has
been producing some of the world’s best stoves since 1853. If you
follow this installation- and operating instruction carefully, we can
assure you many years of warmth and pleasure.
Optional Accessories
A wide range of accessories (such as handling gloves, fireside tools, glass cleaner and heatproof
paint) are available for use with your Morsø stove. They help with day-to-day running and
maintenance. Contact your Morsø dealer for more information.
The Morsø 1440 squirrel meets the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s emission limits for
wood heaters sold on or after July 1, 1990
The Morsø 1440 squirrel has been tested by Intertek Testing Services and is listed by Warnock
Hersey, Inc. The test standards are ANSI/UL-1482 for the United States and ULC S627 for
Canada.
The stove is listed for burning wood only. Do not burn other fuels.
Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from
9,600 to 22,000 Btu´s.

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Contents:
1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove
1.1 Checking loose parts in the stove 4
1.2 The chimney / flue system 4
1.3 Flue Connection 5
1.4 Connection to existing chimney 6
1.5 Positioning the stove 8
2.0 Operation
2.1 Before you start firing 10
2.2 Lighting and loading intervals 11
3.0 Maintenance 13
3.1 Exterior maintenance 13
3.2 Internal maintenance 13
3.3 Cleaning the Stove and the Flue 15
3.4 Leaving the stove for extended periods 17
3.5 Parts diagram 18
3.6 Parts list 19

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Installation of woodburning stoves must be safe and legal.
If your Morsø stove is not installed correctly, it may cause a house fire. To reduce
the risk of fire, the installation instructions must be followed carefully. Contact the
local building officials about restrictions and installation inspection in your area.
Before you start installing your stove, make sure that:
- The stove and chimney connection are placed far enough from combustible materials to
meet all clearance requirements.
- The floor protection must be adequate and must be made correctly according to ´the re-
quirements.
All neccessary approvals are needed from the local building officials.
The data plate, which is located on the back of the stove, provides information regarding safety
testing information, name of certified testing laboratory, and installation requirements.
Installation requirements vary in different districts, and the local building officials have the final
authorization to approve your installation. You should discuss the installation with them before
beginning. Please ask your dealer for further information.
Do not connect to any air distribution duct or system.
Important: If the installation instructions are not followed carefully, it may cause
dangerous situations like chimney - and house fires. Follow the instructions
carefully and do not deviate from them as it may cause injuries to people or
property.
1.1 Checking loose parts in the stove
After unpacking, check that the center grate (in the centre of the fire bed) and the fire bricks are
firmly in position and have not shifted in transit. Check also that the air control works freely.
Standard Accessories
Poker, ceramic flue connection gasket and riddling tool are standard accessories, and can
usually be found in the ashpan or firebox area.
1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove

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1.2 The chimney / flue system
Note that the flue system must be independently secured and must not rely on the stove for
support.
The stove must not be connected to a chimney flue serving any other appliance.
(Several flues may run up a single chimney stack; use one flueway per appliance).
Use a residential type masonry or listed type HT factory-built chimney.
High Temperature (H.T.) Chimney Standard UL-103-1985 (2100º F.) for the USA, and
High Temperature (650ºC) Standard ULC S-629 for Canada.
The internal dimensions of the chimney connector and chimney must not be less than 6 inches
diameter (or equivalent cross section), and should not be significantly larger than this. Too
large a section will tend to allow the flue gases to cool excessively, causing sluggishness or
unpredictability in the stove’s performance.
We recommend the length of the chimney system should be at least 16 feet (not required)
above the stove in normal domestic situations, measured from the flue collar to the top of the
chimney.
Local conditions like for example - roof constructions, large trees nearby and high altitude,
may influence the chimney draft and height. Therefore, contact the local professional chimney
sweep or your Morsø dealer.
Typical Factory-Built or Masonry Chimney Installations

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Double-wall connectors must be tested and listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances.
Single-wall connectors should be made of 24 gauge or heavier gauge steel. Do not use
galvanized connector; it cannot withstand the high-temperatures that smoke and exhaust
gases can reach, and may release toxic fumes under high heat. The connector must be 6 inches
(150mm) in diameter.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through a combustible wall or ceiling.
If passage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the sections on Wall
Pass- Throughs. Do not pass the connector through an attic, a closet or similar
concealed space when installing the chimney connectors.
It is important to keep the flue gases moving smoothly in the right direction. Do not vent into a
large void at this location; rather form one continuous section all the way up. Use mild bends
(e.g. 45º vs. 90º) rather than sharp angles where a change of direction is required. All parts of
the venting must be accessible for cleaning purposes.
In horizontal runs of chimney, maintain a distance of 18 inches from the ceiling. Keep it as
short and direct as possible, with no more than two 90 degree turns. Slope horizontal runs of
connector upward 1/4 inch per foot (20 mm per metre) going from the stove toward the chimney.
The recommended maximum length of a horizontal run is 3 feet (1 metre), and the total length
should be no longer than 8 feet (2.5 metres).
Information on assembling and installing connectors is provided by the manufacturer’s
instructions exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to the stove and chimney.
Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector are correct distances from near
by combustible materials. See the clearance paragraph page 8.
1.3 Flue Connection
The stove is supplied from the factory with a flue collar fitted to the top plate and a round blanking
plate blocking off the rear flue exit (behind the rear shield plate).
The flue collar is from the factory prepared for fitting the enlosed 6 inche adapter.
Use a 24 MSG black or blue chimney connector or listed double wall chimney connector. Refer
to local codes and the chimney manufacturer’s instructions for precautions required for passing
a chimney through a combustible wall or ceiling. Remember to secure the chimney connector
with a minimum of three screws to the product and to each adjoining section.
The collar can be fitted to the rear outlet. Simply knock out the round panel on the rear heat
shield plate to reveal the cast iron plate. Untwist the blanking plate and the flue collar and swap
their positions. Re-secure by pushing down and tighten the enclosed screws.
Position the stove and connect to the flue system.
Wear gloves and protective eyewear when drilling, cutting or joining sections of
chimney connector
1.4 Connection to the existing chimney
A Chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall pipe that connects the stove to the
chimney. The chimney itself is the masonry or prefabricated structure that encloses the flue.
Chimney connectors are used only to connect the stove to the chimney.

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1.5 Positioning the stove
Distance to walls and lintel
When the stove is positioned near combustible materials, observe all current local and national
building regulations with regards to clearances. Whatever regulations apply to your area, do
not in any case install the stove within 8 inches of combustible materials around the sides or 16
inches above the top of the stove. These distances may need to be increased if the materials
are sensitive to heat. Note also that wall paper and other decorative materials may become de-
tached with the effects of heat and care should be taken to ensure that they do not fall towards
the stove in such an event.
When the stove is positioned near non-combustible materials, a gap of 4 inches or more is
recommended for cleaning purposes and to ensure that heat circulates around the stove and
out into the room.
Appliance Clearances
Parallel Corner
Top or Rear Vent Side Rear
Integral rear and 8-in 10-in 7-in
bottom shields 205-mm 255-mm 180-mm
Integral shields plus 8-in 6-in 7-in
connector shield 205-mm 150-mm 180-mm
Integral shields and 8-in 6-in 7-in
double wall connector 205-mm 150-mm 180-mm
Minimum alcove 32-in
width 815-mm
Maximum alcove 24-in
depth 610-mm
Alcove ceiling above 36-in
stove top 915-mm

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Flooring requirements
Combustible floor must be protected with non-combustible material beneath the unit and
extending 16-in (450-mm Canada) to the front and 8-in (200-mm Canada) beyond each side
of the fuel/ash removal opening. For horizontal cimney connectors, non-combustible material
must be place beneath the connector and 2-in to each side.
You must ensure that the floor can hold the weight of the stove comfortably.
U.S. Canada
A. 33” 33” ( 840 mm )
B. 40” 42” ( 1070 mm )
C 6” 8” ( 200 mm )
D. 8” 8” ( 200 mm )
E. 16” 18” ( 450 mm )
If using rear exit the floor protection must
extend beneath the chimney connector
and 2-in beyond each side.
Distance to furniture
The recommended minimum distance from stove to furniture is 30 inches. Note that some
furniture is more easily affected by heat and may need to be moved to a greater distance. This
is your responsibility.
In addition other combustible materials, away from the stove. In general, a distance of 30 inches
must be maintained between the stove and moveable combustible item such as drying clothes,
newspapers, firewood etc.
Note:
Acid Protection
If acid-washing the masonry around the stove, protect the stove surface with an acid-proof
cover
Fresh Air Inlet
Unless there is deemed to be sufficient ambient leakage of air into the room via doorways,
windows and the like, a dedicated fresh air inlet will be needed. This inlet should have 2 square
inches (1250 square mm) of free air space. This is particularly important where the room is
well sealed, or where an extractor hood or ventilation system disturbs the natural air pressure.
Such an inlet should not be on a wall that is usually subject to negative pressure from normal
wind pattern. Avoid placing the inlet directly across the room from the stove, thus causing a
cold air draft.

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2.1 Before you start firing
For Use with Solid Wood Fuel Only. Do Not Overfire, If Heater or Chimney Connec-
tor
Glows You Are Overfiring. Inspect and Clean Chimney Frequently. Under Certain
Conditions of use creosote buildup may occur rapidly. Because of risk of smoke and
flame spillage, operate only with door fully closed.
Caution:
Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away. Contact may cause
skin burns.
Do not use chemicals or fluids to start the fire.
Do not burn garbage or flammable fluids.
Do not use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter or fluid or
similar liquids to start or freshen up a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids away
from the heater while it is in use.
Choosing your fuel
All types of natural wood can be burned on your stove, but they must be well-seasoned and
dry. Once the wood is cut to length, it should be split down middle - to suit the dimensions
given below - to allow moisture to evaporate.
Cut the wood to a length of max 10 inches (25 cm) and approx. 3 to 3.5 inches (7-8 cm) in
section. If you can weigh your wood, aim for around 2 lbs. For correct combustion and heat
output, wood fuel should contain no more than 20% moisture; this can easily be checked by
using the Morsø Moisture Meter (part # 62929900)
To naturally season wood fuel, stack and store it under cover in an airy location where fresh air
can move through each piece. Some soft woods may take as little as one good summer to season
whereas harder woods such as oak, maple, and elm may require seasoning up to 18 months.
Avoid overly dry wood that is gray in color as under certain conditions it can cause performance
problems, such as back-puffing and sluggishness. Well seasoned wood will be light to hold and
will show signs of cracking from the center-out in the ends. If your wood spits or sizzles when
burnt, and your stove’s door glass persistently mists up, your wood is not properly seasoned.
Never use drift wood (from the sea), whose salt content may cause corrosion, nor construction
wood that may have been impregnated with chemicals.
Starting the first fire
The initial fire should be small, so that the stove paint can cure and the main plates of
the stove can settle into position. Some fumes will be given off by the paint. Ventilate the
room during this phase.
The setting of the valve, lighting techniques and loading intervals will depend on chimney
draft, the fuel used, the heat required and so on. Some basic techniques are outlined
below.
2.0 Operation

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This effectively burns off other residual gases, making for very clean emissions. This air supply
is constant and cannot be varied.
The lower air controler on the door is fixed, and only for decoration purposes.
2.2 Lighting and loading intervals
When first lighting the stove, a large volume of air is needed. When the stove is cold, you should
leave the door open an inch or two for the first few minutes and open the primary air
supply completely. While the door is open, do not leave the stove unattended.
To form a reasonable bed of ash on the floor of the stove, you should use 5-6 inches thickness
(2-4 pound) of dry kindling at the initial lighting. Always maintain a 1-1,5 inch (2-3 cm) layer of
ash on the floor of the combustion chamber at all other times.
Step-by-step procedure
1. The air supply must be fully open. Maximum 4 turns.
2. Light the fire. An ember bed will quickly be formed by lighting with firelighters, morsø kindling
bags or 7-10 pieces of twisted paper under the dry kindling wood (see above).
3. After lighting, partially close the door, leaving it open an inch or two to allow in plenty of
combustion air.
4. When the chimney is warmed through after 5-10 minutes, the door should be closed.
A suitable ember bed will be formed after a further 15-20 minutes.
5. When ready to reload, use a poker to spread the ember across the firebox floor, bringing
plenty towards the front of the stove.
6. Lay three pieces of wood (see dimensions above) onto the embers. Leave half an inch (1 cm)
or more between each piece. Place the ends of your logs towards the opening, but not too
close to the front.
7. Close the door. Leave the primary air supply fully open.
8. After a few minutes, and adjust the primary air supply to suit your heating requirements.
9. Anticipate each refueling, remembering to add a modest layer of wood while there are still
plenty of live embers, Repeat steps 5-8.
In principle
Your stove has two air supplies:
Primary air is controlled by the upper air controler of the door. The air eventually washes at high
speed down the back face of the door glass. This super-heated air helps with the combustion
of volatile gases produced by the fire.
Secondary air is supplied to the top of the fire through two rows of holes in the steel baffle.

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Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing of your heater by altering the air
control adjustment range outlined in these directions.
Warning: Fireplace stoves must never be left unattended with doors open.
If the door is left partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the fireplace
stove
opening, creating risks from both fire and smoke. We recommend that you fit a smoke
detector in the room where the stove is installed.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may cause a house fire, or can result in
permanent damage to the stove. If any part of the stove glows, you are overfiring.
The maximum recommended weight of wood fuel per load is 2 kg/h/5.5Ibs (approx 3 split
logs).
Under normal firing, the average flue temperature in the stove pipe, measured 20 cm above
the stove, is approx. 300° C (550°F). The maximum flue temperature in the stove pipe must not
exceed 450° C (750°F). If the flue temperature exceeds 450°C (750°F), it is considered as over
firing and may cause premature wear and tear of the stove.
To help gauge the correct running temperature of your stove, we recommend you use the Morsø
Flue Gas Thermometer (part # 62901200). The Flue Gas Thermometer magnetically attaches
onto the stove pipe approx 20 cm (8”) above the stove’s top plate and measures the surface
temperature of the stove pipe. Please see your authorized Morsø Dealer for availability.
Draft conditions
If smoke or fumes come out of your stove when lightning up and reloading, or if the fire simply
will not respond, a poor draft is almost certainly to blame. (In a very few cases, there may be
insufficient fresh air getting into the room - see installation advice above). Take advice from your
stove supplier on how best to upgrade your flue system to improve draft.
Rules of woodburning
If you want less heat, put fewer logs on the stove and reduce the amount of air. It is still important
to maintain a good layer of embers.
Less heat - less wood - less air
Greater heat - more wood - more air
Soot deposits will settle on the glass if the stove is run too slowly or if your
wood is not well seasoned.

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3.0 Maintenance
When perfoming maintenance on your stove, always protect yourself, using safety
goggles and gloves
3.1 Exterior Maintenance
The stove surface is painted with heat-resistant Senotherm paint. It is best kept clean by va-
cuuming with a soft brush attachment or by wiping with a lint-free cloth.
Over a period of time, the painted surface may become slightly grey. A can of Morsø touch-up
spray paint should be available from your stove supplier. This can be applied - in accordance
with the instructions - in just a few minutes. When first firing after touching up, the stove will give
off a slight smell as the paint cures. Make sure to ventilate the room well during this phase.
3.2 Internal maintenance
Glass
If the stove is generally run at the correct temperatures, there should be little or no dirt on the
glass. If dirt does settle during lighting, most will burn off as temperatures increase.For heavier
deposits that will not burn off, use morsø glass cleaner, applied when the glass is cold, in ac-
cordance with the instructions. Never use abrasive cleaners on the glass surface.
Reasons for dirty glass
· Fuel too wet
· Logs too large or not split
· Combustion temperatures too low
Replace broken glass immediately.
Do not operate your stove if the glass in the door is damaged.
If you need to replace the glass, it should be replaced with the high temperature ceramic class
supplied by Morsø, contact your Morsø dealer.
Installing the glass
Never install the glass when the stove is in function.

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1. Lift the door off its hinges an place face-down on a sheet of cardboards or other non-
abrasieve fabric.
2. Unscrew the five bolts that secure the glass. (In the event that a bolt sheers off when
being unscrewed, remove the remaining body of the bolt by drilling down its cnetre with
1/8 inch high speed steel drill bit. Smaller drill bits may be successful, but do not use a
lager bit. Make sure the bit stays away from the edges of the bolt - this may damage the
thread in the cast iron).
3. Remove the old ceramic gaskets and clean up the surface underneath with wire wool or
emery paper to remove loose particles.
4. Place the new gasket material in position around the perimeter of the window area,
making sure to pinch them to the length in such a way that they make a continuous seal.
Leave no gaps.
5. Place the new glass in position on the strips and screw home the fresh bolts and fitting
by hand.
6. Finally, give each of the bolts an extra half turn or so. The glass should held tight
enough by that cleaning will not dislodge it. Do not over-tighten the bolts as this may put
excessive pressure on the glass, resulting in cracking - important!

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To reduce the risk of breaking the glass, avoid striking the glass or slamming the
door.
Internal service parts
The flame-path equipment - consisting of the ashpan, grate, firebricks, glass, baffle and flue
collar - are subject to the extremes of heat produced by the fire. From time to time, one or other
of these parts may need replacing as a matter of routine maintenance.
NOTE: The flame-path equipment, the ceramic rope and the paint finish are not
covered by guarantee.
All of these service parts can be bought from your morsø dealer, and we recommend that da-
maged parts are replaced as soon as possible to avoid collateral damage.
The grate may be replaced by lifting it by its left hand edge and twisting it backwards. Dislocate
the riddling arm from the grate by feel from beneath the floor of the firebox. If you find this dif-
ficult for any reason, raising the rectangular grate surround casting may help.
Should the baffle be distorted by an overfire, the stove will still function, although its efficiency
may be compromised. Replace it as soon as possible. The rear casing is removed (four bolts).
Remove these and withdraw the baffle from the firebox (this may be easier if the firebricks are
first removed).
Before replacing the baffle, scrape out the old fire furnace and replace with new to make an
effective seal.
Reasons for fast internal wear and tear
Persistent heavy firing
Soot and ashes left to accumulate
Ceramic Gasket
The gasket around the perimeter of the door may harden over a period of time. It should be
replaced if it becomes difficult to close the door or if air starts to leak in around the perimeter of
the door, causing the fire to become a little less controllable. A morsø rope gasket kit is available
from your stove supplier.
3.3 Cleaning the Stove and the Flue
Check for soot above the baffle plate and around the flue outlet every month or so to start with.
If the stove suddenly becomes sluggish, check for a soot fall around the flue collar or in the
flue/chimney. - at least once a year. Inspect every month.
Clean the flue/chimney - all the way from the stove to the flue terminal point above the house.

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A good routine is to clean the flue after each heating season in any case, and inspect prior to the
season to ensure that bird’s nests or other blockages have not ocurred during the off season.
Ash disposal
Empty the ashpan on a daily basis or as needed. Ash allowed to build up towards the underside
of the grate will trap heat and could cause premature failure of the grate.
Empty the ashpan according to this procedure:
When the door is closed, the grate can be operated by means of the riddling bar. Open the front
door, and use a shovel or poker to stir excess ash through the ash slots in the grate down into
the ash pan. Remove the ash pan, making sure to keep it level.
Dispose the ash in a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground,
well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of
by burial in soil or otherwise locally disperded, they should be retained in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Return the ash pan to its original position in the stove, and close.
Caution:
Never empty a stove in operation.
Never use your household or shop vacuum cleaner to remove ash from the stove;
always remove and dispose of the ash properly.
Creosote - formation and need for removal
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with
expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney
flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When
ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. When burning wood, inspect the chimney
connector periodically to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred.
Chimney sweeping
Inspect the system regularly during the heating season as part of a regular maintenance schedule.
To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool completely. Then, using a mirror, sight up through the
flue collar into the chimney flue. If you cannot inspect the flue system in this fashion, the stove
must be disconnected to provide better viewing access.
Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and shape as the flue liner. Run the brush up
and down the liner, causing any deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where they can
be removed through the clean-out door.
Clean the chimney connector disconnecting the sections, taking them outside, and removing
any deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the connetor sections after cleaning, being sure
to secure the joints between individual sections with sheet metal screws.
If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself, contact your local Morsø Dealer or a pro-
fessional chimney sweep.

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If you do experience a chimney fire, act promptly and:
Close the air control.
Get everyone out of the house.
Call the Fire Department.
Annual maintenance
Before the heating season, perform a thorough cleaning, inspection and repair:
Thoroughly clean the chimney and chimney connector.
Inspect the chimney for damage and deterioration. Replace weak sections of prefabricated
chimney. Have a mason make repairs to a masonry chimney.
Inspect the chimney connector and replace any damaged sections.
Check gasketing for wear or compression, and replace if necessary.
Check the glass for cracking; replace if needed.
Check door and handles for tightness. Adjust if needed.
3.4 Leaving the stove for extended periods
Important:
If the stove is to be left unused for any period of time, clean it out thoroughly and leave the
spinner slightly open to allow airflow. Make sure that the flue does not allow rainwater to come
anywhere near the stove; install a chimney cap, but do not block off the flue completely.
These measures should ensure there is a slight movement of air through the stove, and that the
body of the stove remains dry, right into the corners.
Any ash left within an unfired stove can attract moisture like blotting paper. If moisture is allowed
to settle within the stove, rust will form. Rust expands as it takes a grip. This can lead to undue
pressure on the stove joints, and this in turn may result in damage to the stove.
NOTE: It is best to thoroughly clean the stove after the heating season has concluded.
Adding a dessicant, such as kitter litter, into the ash pan helps absorb moisture during
the summer months. Be sure to remove this prior to the heating season.
Thank you for buying a morsø stove.
We hope you have many years of carefree warmth in its company. Some initial experimentation
with loading and running techniques will decide your normal routine. If you have any problems
after this short learning phase, please refer to your stove dealer. Should they be unable to help
for any reason, please contact us in writing at the address on the front of this publication.

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3.5 Parts diagram for the model Morsø 1440

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3.6 Parts list for the model Morsø 1440
Pos.No. Parts
1 Rear plate, inside 34145100
2 Base plate 44145521
3 Side plate w. squirrel 541423
4 Top plate 44140721
5 Cover 44141021
6 Front grate 44141400
7 Attachment for front grate 44141600
8 Flue collar 44145921
9 Front frame 44142221
10 Door 44142521
11 Draft reducer 44142800
12 Intermediate frame 44144900
13 Rear plate, outside 44145021
14 Baffle plate, cast iron 44146300
15 Frame for riddling grate 44203100
16 Radiant shielding 541445
17 Riddling grate 44203300
18 Air valve 44241421
19 Fitting w. thread for flue collar 44256700
20 Fitting without thread f. cover 44256800
21 Handle for riddling grate 44262021
22 Distance tube 541441
23 Poker 541075
24 Hinge pin 541403
25 Ash tray 541405
26 Convection rear plate 54146921
27 Radiant shielding, bottom 541426
28 Distance tube 541439
29 Riddling bar 54344600
30 Radiant shielding, rear 54147000
31 Distance tube 542635
32 Baffle plate, stainless 71141361
33 Black steel set screw
34 Black steel set screw
35 Black steel set screw
36 Black steel set screw
37 Side plate 44142021
38 Black steel set screw
39 Black washer
40 Bolt
41 Bolt
42 Bolt
43 Brass washer
44 Clip pulley 746206
45 Knob for riddling grate 752619
46 Ceramic glass 790724

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47 Tightening tape 79074400
48 Stone 79094700
49 Locking device 79127000
50 Cotter pin 79186300
51 Cotter pin 791868
52 Cotter pin 791869
53 Air slider washer
54 Side plate w. squirrel 44144721
55 Glass fitting 54146261
56 Handle 79118300
59 Black steel set screw
60 Glas fitting 54146361
61 Hanging for handle 71146021
62 Nut 735006
63 Distance tube 541438
64 Centre screw
65 Black steel set screw
66 Black steel set screw
69 Adaptor for Handle 75140161
70 Access Door 34146400
71 Black steel set screw
72 Fitting for draft reducer 71145461
Morsø Jernstøberi A/S - 20.11.2007 - 72145100