7
2. Attach one ohmmeter lead to pipe or METAL well
casing and the other lead, in turn, to each individual
motor wire.
3. If resistance reading goes to zero after touching any of
the wires, the pump should be raised to determine
location of ground fault (cable, motor, or splice).
4. Raise pump, watching resistance reading. When resis-
tance goes to infinity, fault has come out of the water.
If ground fault is located in cable or splice, repair it.
5. If ground fault appears to be located in motor, remove
pump from well. Cut cable at motor side of splice and
determine whether or not motor is grounded. If motor
indicates complete ground (resistance reading goes to
zero) replace unit.
If motor is not grounded, re-check splice and cable.
PUMP/MOTOR SEPARATION;
PUMP DISASSEMBLY
NOTICE (Please read before starting):
• To avoid damage to the upthrust bearing, never stand
the pump on the discharge adapter.
• Use an assembly fixture for disassembly/assembly;
purchase it from Myers Pumps. When ordering, please
specify pump model number, motor size, and
horsepower.
• All 6T and 7T threaded-bowl units have left-hand bowl
threads.
NOTE: All 8T and 10T threaded bowl units have
RIGHT-HANDED threads. These units MUST be
drilled and pinned to prevent the bowls from
unscrewing themselves during operation.
• The stub shaft stick-up is 2-7/8" for 6" motors; the
stick-up is 4" for 8" motors.
Removing Pump From Motor
1. Remove the cable guard from the pump; cut the cable
off of the motor leads just above the splice.
2. Remove the nuts holding the pump to the motor.
Using suitable lifting apparatus, hoist pump off of
motor.
3. If you are returning the motor to the factory, cut motor
lead above cable splice, leaving motor lead installed in
motor. Don’t work on the motor before returning it. To
prevent damage in transit, crate the motor as it was
when shipped new.
Pump Disassembly
1. Remove the suction screen.
2. Remove coupling from shaft.
3. Fasten pump in chain vise.
4. Remove the discharge.
5. Remove the last stage bowl.
6. Mount the fixture to the pump suction bracket with a
1/4" spacer inserted between the fixture and the end
of the pump shaft. Bolt the fixture to the pump bracket.
7. Slip the collet driver, large end first, over the shaft and
tap on the impeller to loosen the collet. Do not use a
pipe wrench or any other tool that could damage or
scar the impeller or the pump shaft.
8. Remove the impeller and the collet. Mark the impeller
and the bowl as they come off so that they can be
reassembled as a pair.
9. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for all stages.
10. If the unit has a lower sand collar, mark the collar
location on the shaft and remove the collar.
11. Remove the shaft from the suction bracket (be careful
not to damage the suction bracket bearing).
12. Clean each part. Dress down any burrs raised during
disassembly. Make sure all flanges and mating fits are
free of burrs, rust, and dirt.
PUMP INSPECTION/
MAINTENANCE
Wear: While pump is disassembled, visually check the
following for wear:
• Bearings
• Bowl Skirts
• Upthrust Screw
• Impellers
• Pump Shaft
Shaft Runout (TIR): Pump shaft must be straight to within
.002” TIR, measured every 6" along pump shaft.
6T and 7T Impeller Wear Ring Clearance: Measure bowl
bore-to-impeller wear ring radial clearance with a
micrometer. Maximum design clearance is .007" per side.
Replace assembly if clearance is more than .011" per side.
8T and 10T Impeller Wear Ring Clearance: Measure
bowl bore-to-impeller wear ring radial clearance with a
micrometer (see Table VI). Replace the wear ring if the
clearance equals or exceeds the dimension given in the
“Replace” column.
6T and 7T Bearing Clearance (Bronze only): Measure
shaft/bearing clearance. Maximum design clearance is
.009" per side. Replace bearing if clearance is more than
.013" per side.
NOTICE: Axial wear may indicate improper upthrust
adjustment. See Step 10, Page 10, or Steps 11 and 12,
Pages 12 and 13.
