Nortik ARGO User manual

Version 2.2016
Assembling instruction - nortik argo
Touring kayak
QR-Code assembling video

2
You can find many assembling videos to our boats on
our YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/c/faltbootde
Dear Customer,
At first: please do not be alarmed by the extent of these instructions!
The assembling instructions are very detailed and almost every step is illustrated. You will
notice that it will help you at one point or another. After a few times and with a little practice
you won’t need the manual anymore.
You have purchased a nortik - argo - an innovative single kayak with extremely high
performance, small packing size and little weight.
The first few setups are power intensive, since frame and skin have to adapt to another (the
hull expands a bit while/after assembling the first couple of times). The assembling gets then
easier each time.
Please take your time for the first assembling to learn about the special features. It is
strongly recommended following the single steps in the instructions carefully!
Otherwise, it will be unnecessarily difficult.
After some practice you will build it up without much hassle in about 15-20 minutes.
Always keep in mind that no one is born a master, and the individual assembling has to be
learned for each folding boat.
If you have any questions, your dealer will be happy to assist you. Otherwise you can also
contact us directly - as an importer (call: 0049/731/4007675, mail: [e-mail]).
Please also consider the instructions of “Care and Accessories” at the end of this manual.
Especially if you are planning extensive tours in salt water, which requires special care!
We hope you enjoy your new kayak!

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1) Overview parts
Overview parts:
1) Bow segment
2) Stern segment (with longer ridge bar)
3) 4x Keel rods
4) Neoprene cover for loading hatches
5) Hanging seat and back rest
6) Neoprene cover for thigh braces (already
installed)
7) Bowden wire (only with rudder system)
8) 2x Stringer elements with lock and riveted
stopping ring
9) 6x Stringer elements with lock
10) 4x Sleeves
11) 2x Ridge bar with metal
fitting at the end
12) /13) 9x Stringer element
without lock (one is used as
ridge bar extension)
14) 2x Thigh braces
15) 7x Cross ribs
(Note: #1 is higher than #7)
16) Hull
17) Repair kit (no pic)
1)
11
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
5)
7)
8)
9)
10)
11)
12)
13)
14)
15)
16)
#7
#6
#5
#4
#3
#2
#1

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2) Marking / Sorting
On the cross ribs you can find little embossed numbering. The stern segment has a longer
Ridge bar. Please first get all parts out the pack and spread them out. It is best to sort
the parts according to the content list. If you are unsure about a name while assembling,
please look it up in the Overview:
Sorting the keel rods:
VERY IMPORTANT:
You need 4 Keel rods.
The clip on #1 (which connects to
the bow segment) is closest to the
front (app. 80cm from the tapered
end).
The next one is #2 with a
hemispherical end.
For the stern segment you need
keel rod #4(which connects directly
to the stern segment) and #3 with
the riveted half tube.
3) Assembling bow
You need:
1x Bow segment
4x Stringer element without lock
2x Stringer element with lock and
with riveted stopping ring
2x Stringer element with lock
1x Keel rod #1
1x Keel rod #2
(with hemispherical end)
1x Ridge bar extension
(= stringer element without lock!)
1x Ridge bar
(with metal fitting at the end)
Cross rib #1 and #2
(Note: #1 is higher than #7)
80 cm
hemispherical
#1
#2
#3
#4
half tube

5
Clip keel rod #1 to the keel element
of the bow segment.
Then clip a stringer element without
lock on each of the 4 middle
elements at the bow segment.
The ridge bar (= stringer element
without lock!) is clipped to the top
pickup element on the bow
segment.
(This should result in the image on
the left.)
Then clip keel rod #2 (with
hemispherical end) to keel rod #1.
Clip a stringer element with lock
(and riveted stopping ring)
To each of the lower stringer
elements.
The two remaining stringer elements
with lock are clipped to the upper
stringer elements.
The ridge bar is placed on the top.
(This should result in the image on
the left.)
Now install cross rib #1.
First place the cross rib diagonally
then slide the clip onto the “counter
clip” on the keel rod and slowly right
it up. Then clip in the ridge bar and
the two upper stringer elements.
The two lower stringer elements
"run free" towards the back.
towards bow

6
Top view cross rib #1
Now install cross rib #2.
Place it diagonally so that the clip on
the bottom of the cross rib can slide
into the "counter clip" on the keel
rod.
Then slowly right the cross rib up.
Then clip the stringer elements into
the clips of the cross rib.
bow segment
bow
bow
Bug
towards bow
bow

7
The bow element is fully assembled
and should result in the image on
the left.
4) Assembling stern
You need:
1x Stern segment
1x Ridge bar with metal fitting at the end
4x Stringer element without lock
4x Stringer element with lock
1x Keel rod #4
(clip nearly in the middle, open end)
1x Keel rod #3 (with riveted half tube)
Cross rib #6 and #7
(Note: the smaller one than #1)
First you clip the keel rods to the stern
segment. First #4, then #3 (with the
riveted half tube).
Then clip a stringer element without lock
on each of the 4 middle elements at the
stern segment, followed by the 4
remaining stringer elements with lock.
The remaining ridge bar with metal fitting
at the end clips into the top element.
Then install cross rib #7 and #6 analogue
to the previous steps.
ATTENTION: Cross rib #7 is slid on from
the stern side.

8
5) Installation rudder rails / rails for the foot pegs
Note: If you are not installing any rudder system / foot rest, you can skip this step
Take the steering/rudder rail.
You can adjust the pedals on the rail or
take it out completely by releasing the
locking (pull towards you) and pushing the
pedal towards the rail.
(see next picture)
Now take the rail and install it at the bow frame. The rail is placed between the two stringer
elements in front of the riveted stopping ring. Put the attachments onto the rubber pads.
The rail is placed diagonally from the outside between the stringer elements. Then close the
lock.
In the following you can see the procedure:

9
Slide the rail to the riveted stopping rings. Make sure, the attachments sit on the rubber
pads.
6) Inserting the frame into the hull and tensioning it
First insert the stern element into the hull.
If needed, twist the frame by doing so, but
make sure to place the frame (ridge bar
and keel) centered!
Lower stringer
element: place
from the
outside!
upper stringer
element: the
attachment faces
inwards!
Lower
stringer element: place
from the outside!
cross rib #2
stopping rings on the stringer
bow

10
Push the frame into the hull. Try to
orientate at the ridge bar and the
reinforcement strip on the deck to insert
the frame centrally.
ATTENTION: Make sure NOT to press
the two stringer together (as shown
intentionally wrong on the picture)! That
could unclip the stringer from the cross
ribs.
Take the cross rib to push the frame into
the hull. Then continue pushing from the
two lower stringer.
Push the frame flatly into the hull as far
as you can. Therefore, it is best to kneel
inside the boat.
Proceed likewise with the bow element.
NOTE: Especially with a new boat it is
recommended to lubricate the top of the
bow frame a little and if necessary also
the inside of the bow skin. Some use
Teflon spray, but you also can thin plastic
bag around the frame.
At the beginning the bow sits very tight
inside the hull and it can get difficult to get
it out again (see notes for disassembling).
By lubricating or a plastic bag you reduce
the friction.
NOTE: If you have installed the rails of
the rudder system. They can slightly get
out of place while inserting the frame.
Check afterwards!
Make sure to take the filling tubes for the
sponsons between the stringer elements.

11
Now bow and stern are getting connected
and tensioned. In order to do this, remove
the split pin on keel rod.
And then proceed exactly as described.
That means pulling up stern and bow
("stern over bow"). Make sure, the keel
rod with the riveted half-tube is on top.
The keel rod of the bow with its
hemispherical end is mounted to the
riveted half-tube of the stern’s keel rod.
Slowly press the aligned keel rods down.
Especially the first time a high tension
occurs. This is normal and will decrease
with further assembling.
Make sure, not to have your hand
under the half tube!

12
Then insert the split pin back through the
holes and wrap the rubber around it.
The split pin fits very closely, which
means, it demands some skill to get it
right. But it gets easier each time!
7) Closing the stringer
The connecting of the stringer elements is
a process that you have to learn.
Especially the precise alignment of the
"locks" to another is crucial to prevent
jamming. This connection technology
adds a lot to the overall stiffness of the
boat.
For one, you "press" the excess length,
the two stringer element with lock of bow
and stern have, "into the boat length" and
on the other hand, this connection is
stable, both on pressure and on tension.
A huge advantage on the water!
Work your way from the bottom up. Start
with the lower stringer elements.
First take one of the four small sleeves
and slide it onto one of the stringer
element (see top picture).
Then take the stringer element (as in the
second picture) and align the locks
exactly to another.
The mouths have to "look at each other".
This is crucial, otherwise it will be
unnecessarily difficult.
Push both stringer elements towards the
boat's center. This requires some strength
(especially for the first few times). The
process can also be done - as mentioned
earlier - from the other side, by pulling the
stringer elements to yourself

13
Then connect the two locks. You must
align the locks exactly to another, in
order to prevent jamming.
Do the whole process - especially the first
few times - as slowly as possible and
without hassle.
Let the stringer then slowly come back
and make sure that the two elements
form a straight line.
This is very important, too. Once there is
no straight line, the stringer elements will
jam.
If they form a straight line, you still can
adjust some little imprecision, by pressing
with your thumb.
Then slide the sleeve over the connection.
Especially at the beginning you have to
practice a bit until you find the right way.
But then it is surprisingly easy. The
gratitude is an extremely stiff and strong
connection that contributes a lot to the
performance of your folding kayak.
Then close the lower stringer on the other
side!
Then take the upper stringer elements,
slide one of the remaining sleeves over
one end and close them.
(For the upper stringer it is recommended
to push the two elements towards the
middle of the boat, rather than upwards.)
S
leeve

14
Then close the upper stringer elements on
the other side.
Proceed likewise.
Install cross rib #5 (behind the cockpit
towards the stern). The Attachment for the
ridge bar faces towards the stern.
Also first place it diagonally...
…then pull up the keel a little. Now you
can easily slide the cross rib into the
"counter clip" on the keel.
(see picture)
Then take out your hand again, while
righting up the cross rib.

15
Then clip the stringers into the cross rib's
clips.
Best is to grab the cross rib from the
opposite side with your thumb above the
clip.
Then press the stringer from the bottom
into the clip.
Push up the ridge bar a little and let it
snap into the attachment on the cross rib.
(here shown at cross rib #3, which will be
installed later on)
Now take the seat with the inflating tubes
facing to the front of the cockpit.
Reopen the two lower stringer by sliding
the sleeves towards the bow and opening
the locks.
Insert the stringer elements into the seat
and pull it far as possible backwards
towards cross rib #5.
Reconnect the stringer. That should be
very easy now.
Note: Your seat has inflatable "hip-fit-
pads" on the sides, which will provide
more contact with your boat.

16
If you have installed the rails of the rudder
system, check, if they are still in place and
correct if necessary.
Now install cross rib #3.
IMPORTANT: Make sure, that the ridge
bar can snap into the metal fitting on the
top of the cross rib.
This metal fitting also faces away from the
cockpit.
Again clip in the stringer. Proceed as
before.
Then clip in the ridge bar to the top of the
cross rib.
Now take the half cross rib #4.
That one supports the seat and ensures
that the weight of the paddler does not
press on the stringer element.
It is therefore essential to install!
First place he half cross rib diagonally and
then push it into position! Otherwise is not
possible to install.
Clip one end onto the stringer right in
front of the seat. Place the other end
diagonally on the lower stringer and a
bit further to the front.
Then slide the half cross rib into position.
The half cross rib then sits directly in front
of the seat.
1.
2.

17
Now you will need the locking screws and
the two thigh braces.
Slide the thigh braces through the "hip-fit-
pads" (as shown on the picture below).
Then put one of the longer locking screws
from behind through the hole in cross rib
#5.
Put the thigh brace onto the screw and
tighten it.
Proceed identically with the other side.

18
The thigh braces have a little whole just
before the seat, in which you insert the pin
of the cross rib.
Insert the thigh brace directly onto the pin.
Eventually you have to adjust the position
of the half cross rib (by gently tapping
against it) in order to make it fit.
Proceed identically with the other side.
(This should result in the image on the
left.)
Now take the two smaller locking screws
and tighten the thigh braces to cross rib
#3.
(see picture)
This can request a bit of power with a new
boat, but it gets easier after frame and hull
have "attuned".

19
The thigh braces are ready connected.
Install the back rest:
IMPORTANT:
Lead the strap through the D-ring on the
thigh brace!
Attach the two middle straps to cross rib
#5.

20
Install the deck lining:
If the deck lining isn't already preinstalled,
you will have to do it once on your new
boat.
The deck lining can be installed in
different ways.
One suggestion is, to form a loop, lead it
through the middle D-ring and lead the
two ends back through the loop.
But you are free to attach the lining as
you want.
Cover for the loading hatch:
Please secure the hatch cover at the first
assembling to the deck lining on the fore
ship. It can stay there, and you won't
loose it.
Lay it "on the back", run one hanger under
the lining and then the whole cover
through it.
Now the hatch cover is securely
connected to the lining and stays on
board.