Osburn 2000 User manual

Installation and Operation Manual
2000
(OB02016 Model)
Safety tested according to ULC S628,
UL 737 and UL 1482 standards by an
accredited laboratory.
2.5 g/h
<
≤
EPA
Printed in Canada 45927A
READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN
LOCAL AREA.
READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE INSTALLATION AND USE OF THIS WOOD INSERT. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE
INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY OR EVEN DEATH.
ENGLISH
2018-05-01

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Installation and Operation Manual - 2000
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As one of North America’s
largest and most respected
wood stove and fireplace
manufacturers, Stove Builder
International takes pride in the
quality and performance of all
its products.
The following pages provide
general advice on wood
heating, detailed instructions
for safe and effective
installation, and guidance
on how to get the best
performance from this insert.
It is highly recommend that
this wood burning hearth
product be installed and
serviced by professionals
who are certified in the United
States by NFI (National
Fireplace Institute®) or in
Canada by WETT (Wood
Energy Technology Transfer) or
in Quebec by APC (Association
des Professionnels du
Chauffage).
Contact local building or fire
officials about restrictions
and installation inspection
requirements in local area.
A building permit might be
required for the installation of
this insert and the chimney
that it is connected to. It
is also recommended to
inform your home insurance
company.
Please read this entire manual
before installing and using this
insert.
A primary alternative heat
source should be available in
the home. This heating unit
may serve as a supplementary
heat source. The manufacturer
cannot be responsible for
additional heating costs
associated with the use of an
alternative heat source.
ONLINE WARRANTY REGISTRATION
If the unit requires repairs during the warranty period, proof of purchase must be provided. The
purchase invoice must be kept. The date indicated on it establishes the warranty period. If it
can not be provided, the warranty period will be determined by the date of manufacture of the
product.
It is also highly recommended to register the warranty online at
https://www.osburn-mfg.com/en/warranty/warranty-registration/
Registering the warranty will help to quickly find the information needed on the unit.
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING
THIS WOOD INSERT.
If this insert is not
installed properly,
combustible materials
near it may overheat
and catch fire.
To reduce the
risk of fire, follow
the installation
instructions in this
manual.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE .............................................................................. 7
1. Safety Information .................................................................................................................... 7
2. General Information.................................................................................................................. 8
2.1 Performances .................................................................................................................. 8
2.2 Specifications .................................................................................................................. 9
2.3 Dimensions.....................................................................................................................10
2.4 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You ................................................................12
2.5 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency ...........................................................12
2.6 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment ............................................................12
3. Fuel ......................................................................................................................................... 13
3.1 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood ............................................................................13
4. Operating Your Insert ............................................................................................................. 16
4.1 Before Operating Your Insert............................................................................................16
4.2 The Use of a Fire Screen. ................................................................................................16
4.3 Blower Operation............................................................................................................16
4.4 Your First Fires................................................................................................................17
4.5 Lighting Fires..................................................................................................................17
4.6 Maintaining Wood Fires ...................................................................................................18
4.7 Building Different Fires for Different Needs........................................................................21
5. Maintaining your wood heating system ................................................................................ 23
5.1 Insert Maintenance..........................................................................................................23
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance.........................................................................25
PART B - INSTALLATION............................................................................................................ 27
6. Pre-Installation Masonry Fireplace Requirements................................................................ 27
7. Safety Information .................................................................................................................. 28
7.1 Regulations Covering Insert Installation ............................................................................28
8. Clearances to Combustible Material ..................................................................................... 29
8.1 Location of the Certification Label....................................................................................29
8.2 Masonry Fireplace Throat Damper....................................................................................29
8.3 Installation of a Combustible Mantel Shelf.........................................................................29
8.4 Floor Protection ..............................................................................................................30
8.5 Minimum Masonry Opening and Clearances to Combustibles ............................................33
9. The Venting System................................................................................................................ 35
9.1 General .........................................................................................................................35
9.2 Block-off Plate................................................................................................................35
9.3 Suitable Chimneys ..........................................................................................................35
9.4 Liner Installation..............................................................................................................36

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9.5 Chimney Liner Installation................................................................................................36
9.6 Minimum Chimney Height................................................................................................38
9.7 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House .....................................................38
9.8 Supply of Combustion Air................................................................................................39
Appendix 1: Ash Lip and Blower Installation ............................................................................ 41
Appendix 2: Door Overlay Installation....................................................................................... 42
Appendix 3: Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit Installation.............................................................. 43
Appendix 4: Optional Faceplate And Trims Installation ........................................................... 44
Appendix 5: Optional Cuttable Faceplate Installation .............................................................. 48
Appendix 6: Optional Heat Shield Installation .......................................................................... 49
Appendix 7: Optional Fire Screen Installation........................................................................... 51
Appendix 8: Installation Of Air Tubes And Baffle..................................................................... 52
Appendix 9: Removal Instructions............................................................................................. 54
Appendix 10: Exploded Diagram and Parts List....................................................................... 55
Dealer:
Installer:
Phone Number:
Serial Number:

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CERTIFICATION PLATE

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PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
1. Safety Information
• Operate only with the door fully closed or fully open with the fire screen in place. If the door is left
partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the opening, creating risks from both fire and
smoke.
• HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR INSERT OPERATION.
• Using an insert with cracked or broken components, such as glass or firebricks or baffles may
produce an unsafe condition and may damage the insert.
• Open the air control fully before opening the loading door.
• This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold separately.
The door may be open, or fire screen removed only during lighting procedures or reloading. Always
close the door or put back the fire screen after ignition. Do not leave the insert unattended when
the door is opened with or without fire screen.
• NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE,
CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START A FIRE IN
THIS INSERT. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE INSERT
WHILE IT IS IN USE.
• Do not store fuel within heater minimum installation clearances.
• Burn only seasoned natural firewood.
• DO NOT BURN:
- GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
- COAL OR CHARCOAL,
- TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
- PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
- FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
- SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,
- MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,
- RAILROAD TIES OR
- LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.
• This appliance should always be maintained and operated in accordance with these instructions.
• Do not elevate the fire by means of grates, andirons or other means.
• A smoke detector, a carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguisher should be installed in the
house. The location of the fire extinguisher should be known by all family members.
• This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon monoxide, which is known to the State
of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to
www.P65warnings.ca.gov/

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2. General Information
2.1 Performances
Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume,
maximum burn time and maximum heat output.
Model 2000 (OB02016)
Fuel Type Dry Cordwood
Recommended heating area (sq. ft..)1500 to 2,100 ft2(47 to 195 m2)
Nominal firebox volume 2.4 ft3 (0.068 m3)
Maximum burn time18 hours
Maximum heat output (dry cordwood)275,000 BTU/h (22.0 kW)
Overall heat output rate (min. to max.)2 3 14,800 BTU/h to 28,600 BTU/h
(4.34 kW to 8.38 kW)
Average overall efficiency3
Dry cordwood 69 % (HHV)474 % (LHV)5
Optimum efficiency677 %
Average particulate emissions rate71.54 g/h (EPA / CSA B415.1-10)8
Average CO989.4 g/h
1 Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft, heat loss factors, climate, fuel type, feed
rate, fuel level, and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is dened by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a
minimum acceptable temperature considering that the space conguration and the presence of heat distribution systems have a signicant impact
in making heat circulation optimum.
2The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft3and 20 lb/ft3. Other performances are based on
a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specied loading density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft3. The moisture content is between 19%
and 25%.
3As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.
4Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
5Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
6Optimum overall efciency at a specic burn rate (LHV).
7This appliance is ofcially tested and certied by an independent agency.
8Tested and certied in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and Draft ASTM WK47329-14.
9Carbon monoxide.

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2.2 Specifications
Maximum log length120 in (508 mm) east-west
Flue outlet diameter 6 in (150 mm)
Recommended connector pipe diameter 6 in (150 mm)
Type of chimney ULCS-635, CAN/ULC-S640, UL 1777
Baffle material C-Cast
Approved for alcove installation No
Approved for mobile home installation2No
Shipping weight (without option) 407 lb (185 kg)
Appliance weight (without option) 347 lb (157 kg)
Type of door Simple, glass with cast iron frame
Type of glass Ceramic glass
Blower Included (up to 130 CFM)
Particulate emission standard EPA / CSA B415.1-103
USA standard (Safety) UL 1482, UL 737
Canada standard (Safety) ULC-S628
1East-west: through the door you see the longitudinal sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you see the tips of the logs.
2Mobile home (Canada) or manufactured home (USA): The US department of Housing and Urban Development describes “manufactured homes”
better known as “mobile homes” as followed; buildings built on xed wheels and those transported on temporary wheels/axles and set on a
permanent foundation. In Canada, a mobile home is a dwelling for which the manufacture and assembly of each component is completed or
substantially completed prior to being moved to a site for installation on a foundation and connection to service facilities and which conforms to the
CAN/CSA-Z240 MH standard.
3Tested and certied in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and Draft ASTM WK47329-14.

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2.3 Dimensions
28 3/8"
721mm 26 7/8"
684mm
13 1/2"
342mm
6 7/8"
174mm
Ø6"
150mm
26"
660mm
17 3/4"
452mm
MAX.
3 1/8"
78mm
MIN.
Figure 1: Top View Figure 2: Side View - Minimum Insert Projection
10 1/4"
262mm
17 1/8"
434mm
25 3/4"
655mm
15 5/8"
398mm
MIN.
5 1/4"
132mm
MAX.
23 1/8"
586mm
22 5/8"
576mm
22 3/8"
569mm
21 3/8"
544mm
10"
255mm
20 7/8"
529mm21 7/8"
556mm
26 3/8"
668mm
Figure 3: Front View Figure 4: Side View - Maximum Insert Projection

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9"
228mm
17 1/2"
444mm
5/16"
8mm
3/16"
5mm
16 3/4"
425mm
14 1/2"
370mm
11 7/8"
301mm
Figure 5: Door Opening Figure 6: Side Firebox
21"
533mm
Figure 7: Front Firebox

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2.4 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You
Your new wood insert is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it is installed
in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is called
zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space
within a home, such as a basement, a family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized
and located wood insert. Whole house zone heating works best when the insert is in the part of
the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where
the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the insert in this area, you will
get the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the highest possible heating
efficiency and comfort. The space where you spend most of your time will be warmest, while
bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this way, you will burn less wood
than with other forms of heating.
Although the insert may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric
heating system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing
and location of the insert, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-
season vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller inserts than houses that are heated
all winter.
2.5 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside this insert firebox mean that
your household will release up to 90% less smoke into the outside environment than if you
used an older conventional stove. But there is more to the emission control technologies than
protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of
the fuel. By burning the wood completely, your insert releases all the heat energy from the wood
instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow you
to reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming
combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your insert can only work properly if
your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15% to 20%. See section «3. Fuel» of this
manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
2.6 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use
only materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.
2.6.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of?
The body of your insert, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire insert can be recycled into new products,
thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.

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The paint coating on your insert is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Compounds) is
very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing
process meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
The C-Cast baffle is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a binder
to form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Firebrick is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, a product processed from
a mined mineral. It is most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal at
a landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have
been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 4 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is made
of natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a
high temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass,
so it should not be disposed of with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is
recommended.
3. Fuel
DO NOT BURN:
- GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
- COAL OR CHARCOAL,
- TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
- PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
- FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
- SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,
- MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,
- RAILROAD TIES AND
- LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.
3.1 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood
3.1.1 What is Good Firewood?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the insert, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.1.2 Tree Species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The
main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are
denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North America usually have
only spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and yet they can heat their
homes successfully.

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Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types for
different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather in
spring and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat softwoods are not as dense as
hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating
the house, which can be a common problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder
woods are best for colder winter weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived
than softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The advice
that only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves wouldn’t hold a
fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no longer true. You can
successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species and give the forest a break
at the same time.
3.1.3 Log Length
Logs should be cut at least 1" (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit
in easily. Pieces that are even slightly too long make loading the insert very
difficult. The most common standard length of firewood is 16" (400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1" (25 mm)
variation from piece to piece.
3.1.4 Piece Size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough
to burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp
edges where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3" (75 mm) should be split to encourage
drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3" to 6" (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross
section. Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the
firewood purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking.
It is sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
3.1.5 How to Dry Firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood inserts.
Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack of
heat and dirty glass door. See Section «5. Maintaining your wood heating system» for concerns
about creosote.

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Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
− Firewood takes a long time to dry;
− Firewood bought from a dealer is rarely
dry enough to burn, so it is advisable
to buy the wood in spring and dry it
yourself;
− Drying happens faster in dry weather
than in damp, maritime climates;
− Drying happens faster in warm summer
weather than in winter weather;
− Small pieces dry more quickly than
large pieces;
− Split pieces dry more quickly than
unsplit rounds;
− Softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods;
− Softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being stacked in
the open for only the summer months;
− Hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if the
pieces are big;
− Firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it takes
much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed;
− Firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight and will allow
your insert to produce its highest possible efficiency.
3.1.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
− Cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry,
− As it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream colored to grey or yellow,
− Bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull,
− Dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
− Split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry
enough to burn; if it feels damp, it is too wet,
− Burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry
wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your firewood.
3.1.7 Manufactured Logs
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or
logs with any chemical additives. Manufactured logs made of 100%
compressed sawdust can be burned, but use caution in the number
of these logs burned at one time. Start with one manufactured log and
see how the insert reacts. Never use more than two manufactured
logs.

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4. Operating Your Insert
4.1 Before Operating Your Insert
Before using the insert, the following items should be installed :
• Ash lip and blower (See «Appendix 1: Ash Lip and Blower Installation», page 41),
• Overlay (See «Appendix 2: Door Overlay Installation», page 42),
• Optional Faceplate (See «Appendix 4: Optional Faceplate And Trims Installation», page 44),
• Air control knob.
A
DETAIL A
BC
Figure 8: Installing air control knob (B) with screw (C)
4.2 The Use of a Fire Screen.
This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold
separately. Make sure the fire screen is properly secured on the insert to avoid any risk of
sparks damaging your flooring. When the fire screen is in use, do not leave the insert unattended
so that you can respond promptly in the event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential
causes of smoke spillage are described in Section «9. The Venting System» of this manual. See
«Appendix 7: Optional Fire Screen Installation» for installation instructions.
OPERATING WITH THE FIRE SCREEN INCREASES POSSIBILITIES OF GENERATING
CARBON MONOXIDE. CARBON MONOXIDE IS AN ODOURLESS GAS THAT IS HIGHLY
TOXIC WHICH CAN CAUSE DEATH AT HIGH CONCENTRATION IN AIR.
4.3 Blower Operation
Ensure the blower cord is not in contact with any surface of the insert to prevent
electrical shock or fire damage. Do not run cord beneath the insert.

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The blower has a rheostat that can be adjusted in three
different positions; either from high (HI) to low (LO) or closed
(OFF).
Allow the insert to reach operating temperature
(approximately one hour) before turning on the blower,
since increased airflow from the blower will remove heat
and affect the start up combustion efficiency.
Since your insert’s blower is equipped with a heat sensor,
when the blower is ON, the blower will start automatically
when the insert is hot enough and it will stop when the
insert has cooled down. Therefore, you can leave the blower
speed control at the desired setting.
OFF
HI
LO
Figure 9: Blower operation
4.4 Your First Fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal components
of the insert are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do
smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first
light your insert, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the house. As you
burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the
paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot
fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and
hotter fires until there is no longer paint smell from the insert.
4.5 Lighting Fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever
method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast
produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular and
effective ways to start wood fires.
4.5.1 Conventional Fire Starting
The conventional way to build a wood fire is to bunch up 5 to 10
sheets of plain newspaper and place them in the firebox. Next, place
10 or so pieces of fine kindling on the newspaper. This kindling
should be very thin; less than 1" (25 mm). Next, place some larger
kindling pieces on the fine kindling. Open the air control fully and
light the newspaper. If you have a tall, straight venting system you
should be able to close the door immediately and the fire will ignite.
Once the fire has ignited, close the door and leave the air control
fully open. After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add
standard firewood pieces until you have a fire of the right size for
the conditions.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED.
ALWAYS CLOSE AND LATCH THE DOOR AFTER THE FIRE IGNITES.

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4.5.2 The Top Down Fire
The top down method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it does not
collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire
gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up
to two hours of heating or more. The top down method works properly only if the wood is
well-seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place 4
or 5 more finely split pieces of firewood (2" to 3" [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the base logs at
right angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the second
layer at right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff them
in between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper knots by
rolling up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage of knots is that
they don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the fire burns from
top to bottom.
4.5.3 Two Parallel Logs
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the logs.
Now place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log
cabin style. Light the newspaper.
4.5.4 Using Fire Starters
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these starters
are made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals. Follow the
package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold firebox
to start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR
OIL, OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.6 Maintaining Wood Fires
4.6.1 General Advice
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will
be variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in
temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners
these are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your insert. It is normal for its surface temperature to
rise after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the fire
progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household routines.
For example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as when doing
housework or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as when reading or
watching television.

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Installation and Operation Manual - 2000
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Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and
ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it
was when the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output by placing
a single log on the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and preferably more,
pieces on the fire at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces
next to it. Each load of wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load can
be matched to the amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the insert’s loading door while the wood is
flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the insert
when the door is opened as a full fire is burning.
If you must open the door while the fuel is flaming, open the air control fully for a few
minutes, then unlatch and open the door slowly. (See section «4.6.5 Controling the Air
Supply»)
4.6.2 Ash Removal
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not let
the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the insert is relatively cool, but there
is still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the insert and prevent it from coming into
the room.
After ashes have been removed from the insert and placed in a tightly covered metal container,
they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a
non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials pending final
disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay hot for several days. If the
ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in
the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste should not be placed
in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A WOODEN
DECK.
4.6.3 Raking Charcoal
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most of the
remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals towards
the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it concentrates
them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they can ignite the
new load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new load of wood. If
you were to simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for a long time before
igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so that
it will ignite the new load.

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4.6.4 Firing Each New Load Hot
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass. Close
the door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the firebox is full of
flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each load of wood
hot accomplishes a few things:
− Drives the surface moisture from the wood,
− Creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
− Heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
− Heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow the
fire to burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the insert and the chimney; the result
will be a surge of heat from the insert. This heat surge is welcome when the room temperature is
a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm. Therefore, allow each
load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool off a little before loading. Letting
the space cool before loading is one of the secrets to clean burning and effective zone heating.
4.6.5 Controling the Air Supply
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for a
steady burn.
As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important things happen. First, the firing rate slows
down to spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer period of time. Second, the flow rate of
exhaust through the insert and flue pipe slows down, which gives more time for the transfer of
heat from the exhaust. You will notice that, as you reduce the air setting, the flames slow down.
This is your indication that the insert is burning at its peak efficiency.
If the flames get small and almost
disappear when you turn down the
air, you have turned down the air
too early, or your firewood is wetter
than it should be. With good fuel and
correct air control use, the flames
should slow down, but should stay
large and steady, even as the air
supply is reduced.
A
DETAIL A
Figure 10: Air Supply Control