Osburn Matrix Insert OB02028 User manual

READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
45929A
Printed in Canada 30-10-2018
INSTALLATION AND OPERATION MANUAL
MATRIX Insert
(OB02028 and OB02028K models)
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED
WOOD INSERT
Safety tested according to ULC S628,
UL 737 and UL 1482 Standards
by an accredited laboratory
www.osburn-mfg.com
Stove Builder International Inc.
250, Copenhague Street, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures (Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
Customer service: 418-908-8002 E-mail: [e-mail]

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THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS OSBURN WOOD INSERT
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace manufacturers,
Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all its products. We want
to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions for safe
and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from this insert as you
build and maintain fires and maintain your wood heating system.
It is highly recommend that this wood burning hearth product be installed and serviced by
professionals who are certified by a «Qualified Agency» such as NFI (National Fireplace Institute®)
or CSIA (Chimney Safety Institute of America) in the United States and in Canada by WETT (Wood
Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC (Association des Professionnels du Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
If this insert is not properly installed, combustible materials near it may overheat. To reduce the
risk of fire, follow the installation instructions in this manual exactly. Contact local building or
fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new insert. You may need to get a
building permit for the installation of this insert and the chimney that it is connected to. Consult
your municipal building department or fire department before installation. We recommend that
you also inform your home insurance company to find out if the installation will affect your
policy.
This heating unit is designed to serve as a supplementary heat source. We recommend that a
primary heat source also be available in the home. The manufacturer cannot be responsible for
costs associated with the use of another heating system.
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of the
date you purchased your insert. Keep your sales invoice. We also
recommend that you register your warranty online at:
https://www.osburn-mfg.com/en/warranty/warranty-registration/
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the
information we need about your insert.

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Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ............................................ 7
1Safety Information .......................................................................... 7
2General Information........................................................................ 8
2.1 Performances.........................................................................................................................8
2.2 Specifications.........................................................................................................................9
2.3 Dimensions ..........................................................................................................................10
2.4 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work.............................................................................11
2.5 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency.............................................................12
2.6 The SBI Commitment...........................................................................................................12
2.6.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of? .................................................................................12
3Fuel............................................................................................... 13
3.1 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood ..............................................................................13
3.1.1 What is Good Firewood? .................................................................................................13
3.1.2 Tree Species .....................................................................................................................13
3.1.3 Log Length........................................................................................................................14
3.1.4 Piece Size..........................................................................................................................14
3.1.5 How to Dry Firewood .......................................................................................................15
3.1.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ...............................................................................16
3.2 Manufactured Logs..............................................................................................................16
4Operating the Insert ...................................................................... 17
4.1 Before Operating the Insert.................................................................................................17
4.2 The Use of a Fire Screen. .....................................................................................................17
4.3 Blower Operation ................................................................................................................17
5Burning wood efficiently................................................................ 18
5.1 The First Fires.......................................................................................................................18
5.2 Lighting Fires........................................................................................................................19
5.2.1 Conventional Method ......................................................................................................19
5.2.2 The Top Down Method ....................................................................................................19
5.2.3 Two Parallel Logs Method................................................................................................20
5.2.4 Using Fire Starters............................................................................................................20
5.3 Maintaining Wood Fires ......................................................................................................20
5.3.1 General Advice .................................................................................................................20
5.3.2 Ash Removal.....................................................................................................................21

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5.3.3 Raking Charcoal................................................................................................................21
5.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot ................................................................................................21
5.3.5 Controlling the Air intake.................................................................................................22
5.4 fire types..............................................................................................................................22
5.4.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill Off the House......................................................................22
5.4.2 Long Lasting Low Output Fires.........................................................................................23
5.4.3 High Output Fires for Cold Weather................................................................................23
5.4.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times ............................................................................................23
5.4.5 Logs Orientation...............................................................................................................24
6Maintaining the Wood Heating System.......................................... 24
6.1 Insert Maintenance .............................................................................................................24
6.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass .........................................................................................................24
6.1.2 Door Adjustment..............................................................................................................25
6.1.3 Replacing the Door Gasket...............................................................................................25
6.1.4 Replacing the Glass or the Glass Gasket ..........................................................................26
6.1.5 Cleaning and Painting the Insert......................................................................................27
6.1.6 Firebricks..........................................................................................................................27
6.2 Chimney Maintenance.........................................................................................................27
6.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary? .............................................................................27
6.2.2 How Often Should the Chimney be Cleaned? .................................................................27
6.2.3 Sweeping the Chimney ....................................................................................................28
PART B - INSTALLATION ...................................................................... 29
7Masonry fireplace requirements.................................................... 29
8Safety Information and Standards ................................................. 30
8.1 Regulations Covering Insert Installation..............................................................................30
9Clearances to Combustible Material .............................................. 31
9.1 Certification Label................................................................................................................31
9.2 Masonry Fireplace Throat Damper......................................................................................31
9.3 Installation of a Combustible Mantel Shelf .........................................................................32
9.4 Floor Protection...................................................................................................................32
9.4.1 Installation Raised of 5" and Less ....................................................................................34
9.4.2 Installation Raised of More than 5".................................................................................34
9.4.3 R Value .............................................................................................................................35
9.5 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles.................................................36

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10 The Venting System....................................................................... 37
10.1 General ................................................................................................................................37
10.2 Block-Off Plate .....................................................................................................................37
10.3 Suitable Chimneys ...............................................................................................................38
10.4 Liner installation ..................................................................................................................38
10.5 liner Connection ..................................................................................................................39
10.5.1 Liner Starter Adaptor .......................................................................................................39
10.5.2 Liner Offset Adaptor ........................................................................................................40
10.6 Minimum Chimney Height...................................................................................................40
10.7 Chimney Location ................................................................................................................41
10.8 Supply of Combustion Air ....................................................................................................41
Appendix 1: Installing the Faceplate.................................................... 43
Appendix 2: Installing the Optional Fire Screen ................................... 45
Appendix 3: Installing the Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit ....................... 46
Appendix 4: Blower Replacement ....................................................... 47
Appendix 5: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle ................. 49
Appendix 6: Removal Instructions....................................................... 51
Appendix 7: Exploded Diagram and Parts List...................................... 52
OSBURN LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY .............................................. 56
Dealer:
Installer:
Telephone:
Serial number:

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CERTIFICATION PLATE

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PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
1SAFETY INFORMATION
•Operate only with the door fully closed or fully open with the fire screen in place. If the door is
left partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the opening, creating risks from both fire
and smoke.
•HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT
MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR INSERT OPERATION.
•Using an insert with cracked or broken components, such as glass, firebricks or baffle may
produce an unsafe condition and may damage the insert.
•Open the air control fully before opening the loading door.
•This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold
separately. The door may be open, or fire screen removed only during lighting procedures or
reloading. Always close the door or put back the fire screen after ignition. Do not leave the
insert unattended when the door is opened with or without the fire screen.
•NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE,
CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START A FIRE IN THIS
INSERT. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE INSERT WHILE IT IS IN
USE.
•Do not store fuel within heater minimum installation clearances.
•Burn only seasoned natural firewood.
•DO NOT BURN:
−GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
−COAL OR CHARCOAL,
−TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
−PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
−FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
−SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,
−MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,
−RAILROAD TIES OR
−LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.
•This appliance should always be maintained and operated in accordance with these
instructions.
•Do not elevate the fire by using a grate.
•A smoke detector, a carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguisher should be installed in the
house. The location of the fire extinguisher should be known by all family members.
This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon monoxide,
which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or
other reproductive harm. For more information go to
www.P65warnings.ca.gov/

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2GENERAL INFORMATION
2.1 PERFORMANCES
Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox
volume, maximum burn time and maximum heat output.
Models Matrix Insert (OB02028 and OB02028K)
Fuel type Dry cordwood
Recommended heating area1500 to 2,100 ft2(47 to 195 m2)
Nominal firebox volume 2.4 ft3(0.068 m3)
Maximum burn time18 hours
Maximum heat output (dry cordwood)275,000 BTU/h (22.0 kW)
Overall heat output rate (min. to max.)2 3 14,800 BTU/h to 28,600 BTU/h
(4.34 kW to 8.38 kW)
Average overall efficiency3- Dry cordwood 69% (HHV)474% (LHV)5
Optimum efficiency677%
Average particulate emissions rate71.54 g/h (EPA / CSA B415.1-10)8
Average CO989.4 g/h
1Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft, heat
loss factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined
by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case
of a power failure.
2The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft3and 20 lb/ft3.
Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specified loading density varies
between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft3. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%.
3As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.
4Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
5Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
6 Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).
7This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.
8Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and Draft ASTM
WK47329-14.
9Carbon monoxide.

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2.2 SPECIFICATIONS
Maximum log length120 in (508 mm) east-west
Flue outlet diameter 6 in (152 mm)
Recommended connector pipe diameter 6 in (152 mm)
Type of chimney ULC-S635, CAN/ULC-S640, UL1777
Baffle material C-Cast
Approved for alcove installation Not approved
Approved for mobile home installation2Not approved
Shipping weight (without option) 484 lb (220 kg)
Appliance weight (without option) 428 lb (194 kg)
Type of door Single, glass with cast iron frame
Type of glass Ceramic glass
Blower Included (up to 90 CFM)
Particulate emission standard EPA / CSA B415.1-103
USA standard (safety) UL 1482, UL 737
Canadian standard (safety) ULC S628
1 East-west: through the door you see the longitudinal sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you see the
tips of the logs.
2 Mobile home (Canada) or manufactured home (USA): The US department of Housing and Urban Development
describes “manufactured homes” better known as “mobile homes” as followed; buildings built on fixed wheels
and those transported on temporary wheels/axles and set on a permanent foundation. In Canada, a mobile home
is a dwelling for which the manufacture and assembly
of each component is completed or substantially
completed prior to being moved to a site for installation on a foundation and connection to service facilities and
which conforms to the CAN/CSA-Z240 MH standard.
3 Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and Draft ASTM
WK47329-14.

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2.3 DIMENSIONS

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2.4 ZONE HEATING AND HOW TO MAKE IT WORK
Your new Matrix wood insert is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it is
installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is
called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space
within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized and
located wood insert. Whole house zone heating works best when the insert is located in the part
of the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where
the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the insert in this area, you will get the
maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the highest possible heating efficiency
and comfort.

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The space where you spend most of your time will be warmest, while bedrooms and basement (if
there is one) will stay cooler. In this way, you will burn less wood than with other forms of heating.
Although the insert may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating
system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and
location of the insert, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-season
vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller inserts than houses that are heated all winter.
2.5 THE BENEFITS OF LOW EMISSIONS AND HIGH EFFICIENCY
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Matrix insert mean that your
household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside environment than if you used
an older conventional insert. But there is more to the emission control technologies than
protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of the
fuel. By burning the wood completely, your insert releases all the heat energy from the wood
instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow you to
reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming
combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your insert can only work properly if
your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section 3.0 of this
manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
2.6 THE SBI COMMITMENT
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use only
materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.
2.6.1 WHAT IS YOUR NEW INSERT MADE OF?
The body of your insert, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire insert can be recycled into new products,
thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coating on your insert is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Compounds) is very
low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing process
meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
The C-Cast baffle is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a binder to
form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

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Firebrick is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, a product processed from a
mined mineral. It is most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal at a
landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fiberglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have been
dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 4 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is made of
natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a high
temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass, so it should
not be disposed of with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
3FUEL
DO NOT BURN:
•GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
•COAL OR CHARCOAL,
•TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
•PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
•FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
•SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,
•MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,
•RAILROAD TIES AND
•LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.
3.1 HOW TO PREPARE OR BUY GOOD FIREWOOD
3.1.1 WHAT IS GOOD FIREWOOD?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the insert, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15% to 20%.
3.1.2 TREE SPECIES
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The
main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are
denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North America usually have only
spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and yet they can heat their homes
successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types for
different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather in spring
and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat Softwoods are not as dense as hardwoods
so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating the house,
which can be a common problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder woods are best
for colder winter weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.

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Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived than
softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The advice that
only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated.
Old, leaky cast iron stoves wouldn’t hold a fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of
hardwood. That is no longer true. You can successfully heat your home by using the less desirable
tree species and give the forest a break at the same time.
3.1.3 LOG LENGTH
Logs should be cut at least 1” (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces that are
even slightly too long make loading the insert very difficult. The most common standard length of
firewood is 16” (400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1” (25 mm) variation from piece to
piece.
3.1.4 PIECE SIZE
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough to
burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp edges
where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3” (75 mm) should be split to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3” to 6” (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross section.
Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the firewood
purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking. It is
sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.

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3.1.5 HOW TO DRY FIREWOOD
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood inserts.
Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack of heat
and dirty glass door.
Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
•Firewood takes a long time to dry.
•Firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood
in spring and dry it yourself.
•Drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates.
•Drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather.
•Small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces.
•Split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds.
•Softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods.
•Softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being stacked
in the open for only the summer months.
•Hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if
the pieces are big.
•Firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it
takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed.
•Firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between 15 and 20% by weight and will
allow your insert to produce its highest possible efficiency.

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3.1.6 JUDGING FIREWOOD MOISTURE CONTENT
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
•Cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry.
•As it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream colored to grey or yellow.
•Bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull.
•Dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood.
•Split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels damp,
it is too wet.
•Burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
A wood moisture meter can be bought to test the
firewood.
3.2 MANUFACTURED LOGS
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical
additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but use caution
in the number of these logs burned at one time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the
insert reacts. Never use more than two manufactured logs.

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4OPERATING THE INSERT
4.1 BEFORE OPERATING THE INSERT
If necessary, before using the insert, the following step should be completed:
•Install the fresh air inlet (see "Appendix 3: Installing the optional air inlet");
•Install the faceplate backing plate (see the faceplate installation instructions for more details);
•Install the projection kit (see the projection kit installation instructions for more details);
4.2 THE USE OF A FIRE SCREEN.
This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold
separately. Make sure the fire screen is properly secured on the insert to avoid any risk of sparks
damaging your flooring. When the fire screen is in use, do not leave the insert unattended so that
you can respond promptly in the event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential causes of smoke
spillage are described in Section 10 The Venting System of this manual. See Appendix 2: Installing
the Fire Screen for installation instructions.
OPERATING WITH THE FIRE SCREEN INCREASES POSSIBILITIES OF GENERATING CARBON
MONOXIDE. CARBON MONOXIDE IS AN ODOURLESS GAS THAT IS HIGHLY TOXIC AND WHICH
CAN CAUSE DEATH AT HIGH CONCENTRATION IN AIR.
4.3 BLOWER OPERATION
A blower is already installed on this insert.
It is located underneath the insert, behind
the bottom faceplate.
Its function is to
increase airflow through the heat
exchanger and improve hot air circulation
in the room. When used regularly, the
blower can
provide a small increase in
efficiency, up to 2%. However, the use of a
blower should not be used as a way to
gain more output from an insert that is
undersized for the space it is intended to
heat.
Ensure the blower cord is not in contact
with any surface of the insert to prevent
electrical shock or fire damage.
Do not
run cord beneath the insert.

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5BURNING WOOD EFFICIENTLY
5.1 THE FIRST FIRES
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal
components of the insert are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do
smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first
light your insert, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the house. As you
burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the
paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot
fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and
hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the insert. Once the paint smell
disappears, your insert is ready for serious heating.
Allow the insert to reach operating
temperature (approximately one hour) before
turning on the blower, since increased airflow
from the blower will remove heat and affect
the start up combustion efficiency.
The insert's blower assembly is equipped with
a
heat sensor. Therefore, you can leave the
switch in the automatic position (3). The
blower will start automatically when the insert
is hot enough and it will stop when the insert
has cooled down. You can also set the switch
to the manual position (1) to op
erate the
blower at any time. Select the position (2) to
manually stop the blower.

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5.2 LIGHTING FIRES
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever
method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast
produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular and
effective ways to start wood fires.
5.2.1 CONVENTIONAL METHOD
The conventional way to build a wood fire
is to bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of newspaper
and place them in the firebox. Next, a dozen
pieces of
fine kindling are placed on the
newspaper. This kindling should be very thin;
less than 1 inch thick (25 mm). Then, larger
kindling pieces are placed on the fine kindling.
The air control fully open, the newspaper is lit.
With a tall and straight venting s
ystem the
door can be closed immediately, and the fire
will ignite. Once the fire has ignited, the door
can be closed with the air control still fully
open. When the kindling is almost completely
burned, standard firewood pieces can be
added until the fire
is the right size for the
weather.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED. ALWAYS
CLOSE AND LATCH THE DOOR AFTER THE FIRE IGNITES.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you have a
fire of the right size for the conditions.
5.2.2 THE TOP DOWN METHOD
The top down method solves two problems encountered when using the conventional method:
first, the fire does not collapse on itself and smother as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to
build up the fire gradually since the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can burn
for two hours or more. The top down method works properly only if well-seasoned wood is used.
Three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood are placed in the firebox. Then, 4 or 5 more
finely split pieces of firewood (2" to 3" [50 mm to 75 mm] in diameter) are placed on the top of
the logs at right angles (log cabin style). Next, a dozen finely split kindling are placed on the second
layer at right angles.
The fire is topped with 5 sheets of newspaper, stuffed in between the kindling, under the baffle.
Knots can be made in the newspaper by rolling up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot
in them. The advantage of knots is that they don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Newspaper is lit
and the fire burns from top to bottom.

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5.2.3 TWO PARALLEL LOGS METHOD
Two spit logs are placed in the firebox with a few sheets of twisted newspapers in between the
logs. Fine kindling is added across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin
style. Newspaper is lit.
5.2.4 USING FIRE STARTERS
Commercial fire starters can be used instead of a newspaper. Some of these starters are made of
sawdust and wax and others are made of specialized flammable solid chemicals. Always follow the
package directions when using.
Gel starters can also be used, but only to light a fire, in a cold combustion chamber without hot
embers inside.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, OR
AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
5.3 MAINTAINING WOOD FIRES
5.3.1 GENERAL ADVICE
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
temperature variations in different parts of the house and there will be temperature variations
throughout day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners these are advantages
of zone heating woodburning.
Wood inserts don’t have a steady heat output. It is normal for the temperature to rise after a new
load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decrease throughout the burning
cycle. This increasing and decreasing temperature can be matched with the household routines.
For example, the temperature in the area can be cooler when the household is active, and it can
be warmer when it is inactive.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and ends
when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it was when
the wood was loaded. Trying to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log on the fire at
regular intervals is not recommended. Always place at least three, and preferably more pieces on
the fire at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each
load of wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load may vary depending
on the amount of heat required.
Burning in cycles means the insert door does not need to be opened while the wood is flaming.
This is an advantage since it is preventing smoke leaking from the insert when the door is opened
as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if the chimney is on the outside wall of the house.
IF THE DOOR MUST BE OPENED WHILE THE FIRE IS FLAMING, FULLY OPEN AIR CONTROL FOR A
FEW MINUTES THEN OPEN THE DOOR SLOWLY.