Pergola kits USA GRAND CEDAR PAVILION User manual

GRAND CEDAR PAVILION
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Thank you for the purchase of your new Grand CedarPavilion. Depending on
the size of your structure, installation can usually be completed in 1-3 days.
Additional options may have a bearing on installation.
(Shown above is a 16'x24' Grand Cedar Pavilion)

These instructions are meant to serve as a guide for people with a basic knowledge of
general handyman skills. This assembly requires a minimum of two people to complete.
(Extra help with installing the roof sections is suggested.)
Please always check with your local building codes. These will vary from state to state.
An air-nailer or stapler may be used for roong material.
(Air nails and staples are not included in the kit.)
You will receive a parts list with your pavilion. All hardware is included in each pavilion kit. The specic
hardware will vary depending on the pavilion. Please see your parts list for details.
Tools Needed for Assembly
Screw Gun/Drill, Hammer, Level, Tape Measure, C Clamps, Socket Set, Ladder, Circular Saw, Vinyl Snips
Before You Begin
2

Consider a few details before beginning assembly:
The base for the pavilion must be solid and level. If installing on a concrete slab or on concrete footers, they
should be level where the posts will rest. If they are not, it may be necessary to cut the bottom of the posts so
that the tops are all level. No cutting is necessary unless noted. If you feel that you will need to make
any additional cuts, please contact us before doing so. Making cuts without calling rst may make
installation difcult or impossible, and can void our warranties.
Hardware Included
(Hardware may vary)
Post Brackets
Wedge Anchors
GRK Screws
2" Screws 21⁄2" Screws
31⁄2" Screws
Site Preparation
3

1. Your pavilion kit includes a
wooden template that you
will use to mark your post
locations. You will notice that
two of the 2x4 boards have a
marking near the ends. You
will build a box that will reveal
the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
Arrange the template pieces
so that they are positioned in
the exact location of where
your pavilion will be placed.
The boards with the marking
on the end will be across from
each other. The marks will show
where the other boards will be
attached to create th is box.
1
2
Template Assembly
Connect the corners of the
template pieces by driving two
2½" screws through the side of
the template boards. On larg-
er pavilions, your template will
be spliced. Match the letters,
then fasten them together with
21⁄2" screws.
3
4

Once the template is in position, you will
need to square the template. Do this by
measuring diagonally from one corner to its
opposite corner. Then measure diagonally
between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the
template until the diagonal measurements
are identical.
4
Once the template is "square", mark the
post locations (using the INSIDE corners of
the framed box) on the concrete slab with
a pencil. After you have all the post loca-
tions marked on the concrete slab.
NOTE: If you have more than four posts,
please mark per the template.
5
Remove and set the wooden template
aside. You are now ready to assemble your
pavilion.
6
5

The next step is to put the bottom post
base and the top trim ring on.
2
NOTE: If you ordered a pavilion with heavy duty
anchors, please turn to page 12.
The next step is placing the post at the marks you
made with the template. When placing the post,
make sure you turn it the correct way. There should
be a 3" notch and 1" notch on top of post. The 3"
notch gets turned to the outside to receive the
header beam.
NOTE: If you ordered a pavilion with more than
four posts, you will have center posts. Make sure
you turn the 3" notch toward the outside.
1
You are now ready to install the header
beams. If you do not have a couple extra guys
to hold the post, you can use the template. Put it
together like you did before. Then just screw it to
the top of the post underneath the top post trim. If
your template is spliced, add a spare 2x4 approx-
imately 2' long at your splice. Attach with four 21⁄2"
screws to give your template more support.
NOTE: If you ordered a pavilion with more than
four posts, your header beam will be spliced for
your center post.
3
Assembly
6

The next step will be fastening the top
trim to the bottom of header with two 3½"
screws.
7
Once you have both long headers up,
you are now ready to put the return
beams in. Make sure the posts are level
and at the marks. Fasten the return beams
with four 3½" screws. Four per side.
5
Once you have the header beam up in
place, fasten it to the upright post with four
3⁄8" x 6" GRK screws in each post. Be sure
to use the outside set of pre-drilled holes
only. Continue with the header on the oth-
er side of the structure. Be sure to let the
center set of 4 holes empty for this step.
4
You can now go back and put the remain-
ing four 3⁄8" x 10" GRK screws in. Use the
four center pre-drilled holes.
6
7

NOTE: If you ordered heavy duty
anchors, please skip this step.
When you have all the brackets attached
to post, use a ½" mason bit and drill down
about ½" farther than length of anchor
bolt.
9
NOTE: If you ordered heavy duty
anchors, please skip this step.
When holes are all drilled, put the
anchor bolts in. Make sure the nut and
washer are on. Use a hammer to tap bolt
in hole. When you have it down against,
tighten nut with a wrench. Do that with all
brackets.
10
Locate your braces. You’ll need two brac-
es per post. Fasten brace to header and
post with 3⁄8" x 6" GRK screws.
11
NOTE: If you ordered heavy duty
anchors, please skip this step.
Lift bottom post base up approximately
16". You can put a screw in to hold it if
you want to. Fasten four of the black L
brackets to bottom of post with ve 2½"
screws.
8
8

You should be ready to assemble the roof
structure now. Locate the two pieces about
two to three feet long. These go on top of
return beam. There should be a mark on
top of return beam. Make sure it is right in
the center or your rafters won't t. Fasten it
to return beam with two 3½" screws.
12
Locate the ridge beam. Make sure the
marks on top of ridge beam are turned
up. Set it on top of the ridge beam sup-
ports. Fasten with two 3½" screws, one on
each side.
If you ordered a pavilion with a return
gable, turn to page 14.
13
Fasten the rafter to ridge beam with one
3½" screw. Make sure to keep the long
point of the rafter ush with the top of the
ridge beam. THERE IS A PRE-DRILLED HOLE
IN RAFTER. DO NOT USE THAT NOW. Fasten
rafter to header with four 3½" screws, two
on each side. Make sure rafter sits in tight
against header.
14
Put the four outside rafters on rst. There will
be marks on top of headers. Put the rafters
on the X. Next begin placing the middle
rafters across the structure using the "X"
marks for placement.
15
9

There should be four 2x4 y rafters the
length of the main rafters. Fasten these y
rafters to the end of ridge beam with two
3½" screws. Do not fasten the bottom to
header.
NOTE: Measure from the main rafters and
make sure your y rafter is the same dis-
tance on the bottom as it is on the top.
17
Install the 1x6 tongue and groove boards.
On larger pavilions they will be spliced.
Turn the rough side down. Keep ush on
bottom of rafter. Fasten with two 2" screws
into each rafter.
18
NOTE: This step only applies to structures
with metal roofs. If you do not have a
metal roof skip this step.
Fasten horizontal roof lath pieces with two 2"
screws at each rafter. Place the rst piece
of lath directly on top of the lowest deck-
ing board. Space each lath board roughly
20-24" apart with the longest piece placed
at the bottom and the shortest piece at the
top. (Lath boards may need to be cut to
length.)
19
The next step will be the GRK screws. One
5" GRK screw on top of each rafter going
into the ridge beam. And one 8" GRK
through the rafter and into the header
16
10

The next step will be installing the gable
fascia. Keep it ush on top of 1x3s. If you
have asphalt shingles, keep it ush with the
tongue & groove. Put it right in the center
of ridge beam. Fasten with one 2½" screw
every 24".
20
Once you have all four pieces of gable
trim up, install the fascia. These might be
spliced. Just match the letters on the inside
(A goes with A). Fasten into gable fascia
with two 2½" screws. Then one 2½" screw
every 24". You might have to cut these if
too long.
21
Install the decorative gable trim on each
side of the ridge beam support. You might
need to cut these down if they are too
long. Fasten with four 3½" screws, two on
the top and two on the bottom as shown.
22
You are now ready for your roong material.
See page 17 for metal – or – page 19 for asphalt.
If you have a electrical package, please see page 23.
11

Heavy-Duty Anchors
for High Wind
Be sure your bracket is sitting correctly
against the pencil marks. Using the brack-
et base as a template, drill a hole using a
1⁄2" masonry bit about 1" longer than the
masonry bolt in each of the four anchor
bolt holes. Clear all concrete dust from the
holes.
2
Set the outside edges of the brackets
at the pencil marks you made from the
template.
1
Install the washer and nut on the bolt
so that only a few threads are showing
above the nut. Using a piece of wood to
protect the threads, tap the anchor bolt
into the hole with a hammer until about
3⁄4" of threads are showing. Tighten the nut
and the base of the bolt will expand and
anchor the entire assembly to the ground.
Continue on with the rest of the anchor
bolts.
3
12

Place the post into the bracket. Make sure
you turn it the correct way. There should be
a 3" notch and 1" notch on top of the post.
The 3" notch gets turned to the outside
to receive the header beam. Level the
post on both sides, then fasten 81⁄2" x 3"
lag screws into the post. Repeat this step
with all posts. Turn to page 6 for your next
assembly step.
4
13

Attach the middle upright,
centered on the beam. Attach
the ridge board to the upright
and attach the other end to
the ridge board.
Add the outer rafters. (NOTE:
these will not have the bird’s
mouth cuts.) They will set on
the beam and line up with the
outside edge of the beam,
fasten with four 31⁄2" screws into
the ridge beam.
1
2
Return Gable Assembly
Identify the valley beams.
These will form a "V" from the
center of the main ridge beam
and will align to the ends of
the outer rafters. Fasten with
31⁄2" screws.
3
14

Install the jack rafters on the
main roof. Locations will be
marked and all are pre-cut.
Do this on both sides.
Install the jack rafters on the
dormer in the same way.
Install Tongue and Groove
Decking
4
5
6
Install the 1x6 tongue and groove boards.
On larger pavilions they will be spliced.
Turn the rough side down. Keep ush on
bottom of rafter. Fasten with two 2" screws
into each rafter.
7
15

The next step will be installing the gable
fascia. Keep it ush on top of 1x3s. If you
have asphalt shingles, keep it ush with the
tongue & groove. Put it right in the center
of ridge beam. Fasten with one 2½" screw
every 24".
9
Once you have all four pieces of gable
trim up, install the fascia. These might be
spliced. Just match the letters on the inside
(A goes with A). Fasten into gable fascia
with two 2½" screws. Then one 2½" screw
every 24". You might have to cut these if
too long.
10
You are now ready for your roong material.
See page 17 for metal – or – page 19 for asphalt
NOTE: This step only applies to structures
with metal roofs. If you do not have a
metal roof skip this step.
Fasten horizontal roof lath pieces with two 2"
screws at each rafter. Place the rst piece
of lath directly on top of the lowest deck-
ing board. Space each lath board roughly
20-24" apart with the longest piece placed
at the bottom and the shortest piece at the
top. (Lath boards may need to be cut to
length.)
8
16

Install the drip edge over the
bottom lath piece. Cut each
piece to length. Fasten with 1"
screws, staples or nails.
Install the foam ribbing roughly
11⁄2"-2" from the bottom of the
drip edge. (NOTE: be sure to
install the proper foam ribbing.
One set is designed to t
below the metal roong and
the other set is for on top of
the roong.) Do not stretch the
ribbing because the grooves
of the roof must line up with
the ribs.
1
2
Roof Option 1
Installing a Metal Roof
Install the tin, starting at the
right side and moving left. En-
sure the rst piece is installed
squarely. Keep the bottom of
the tin ush with the drip edge.
Fasten with 1" screws. The rst
piece will have three screws at
every lath.
3
17

The next piece must properly
overlap on the far edge of the
rst piece. The last piece of
metal roong may need to be
cut to size to be ush with the
edge of the fascia.
Once you have all the metal
roong installed, hold the ga-
ble end trim in place to mark
the upper end of the trim that
will need to be cut to meet
ush with the other side.
Once the gable end trim are
cut to angle, attach the trim
piece with one 1" screw into
the fascia board every 24" of
the open gable end. Next,
fasten the top of the same trim
piece with 1" screws at every
roof lath.
4
5
6
18

Place the ridge cap ush with
the previously installed trim,
fastening every 24" with 11⁄2"
screws on both sides.
Install the foam ribbing along
the peak of the roof roughly
11⁄2" from the peak. Be care-
ful to t this to the metal roof
prole and do not stretch it. Be
sure this foam will be covered
by the ridge cap when it is
installed.
8
7
19

Install roof paper. Start at the
bottom and be sure to overlap
2" as you work upward. Install
the drip edge to the edges of
the roof using a fastener every
16".
To install the rst row of shin-
gles, spin your shingles so the
tabs face the peak and ip
them over. Attach to roof using
four 5/8" roong nails. Place
nails approximately 3" from
bottom.
1
2
Roof Option 2
Installing an Asphalt Roof
NOTE: Before beginning, consult instructions on shingle packaging. We do not include fasteners
for asphalt shingles with our kits. This is because some states require different fasteners than oth-
ers, and because some customers have different tools than others (hammer, nail gun, pneumatic
stapler, hammer tacker, etc.) Please use shallow depth fasteners to fasten your shingles to your
1x6 roof decking. For example: 5⁄8" long roong nails or roong staples with 5⁄8" leg and 1" wide
crown. These fasteners will certainly be sufcient to hold the shingles to your roof in high storm
winds and will not pierce the bottom surface of the 1x6 decking.
DO NOT PLACE PLYWOOD, OSB (ORIENTED STRAND BOARD) OR OTHER DECKING ON THE TOP OF THE
1X6 TONGUE AND GROOVE. It is not necessary and is too heavy for your structure.
20