Pergola kits USA WOOD SERENITY PERGOLA User manual

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WOOD SERENITY PERGOLA INSTRUCTIONS
Shown –12x14 Treated Pine Serenity Pergola with decorative posts (w/16” post base trim).
Thank you for purchasing the Serenity Wood Pergola. Depending on the size of the
pergola, installation can usually be completed in a day. These instructions apply to both
cedar andtreated pine models.
Consider a few details before starting assembly:
1. The base for the pergola must be solid and level. If installing on a concrete slab or
on concrete footers, it should be level where the posts will rest. If not, it may be
necessary to cut the top of the posts so that the tops are all level. Other than this,
no cutting is necessary. If any additional cuts are needed, please contact us before
doing so. Making cuts without calling first may make installation difficult and
may void our warranties.
2. These instructions show connection to asphalt using a wedge bolt. The same
method can be used with concrete. If connecting to an existing deck, a lag bolt
and deck screws (not included) will replace the wedge bolt.
3. The Serenity pergola does not give the ability to alter the location of the posts. It is
important they are laid out correctly and double checkedfor accuracy before
permanently attaching it to the base.

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Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
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SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.

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SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
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7. Square the Brackets: It is a good idea to recheck the square of the brackets by
measuring opposing corners, similar to what was done when squaring the
template. Also be sure that the brackets are parallel with the other brackets. The
brackets can be rotated until they are aligned properly. Keeping the template in
place will ensure that the brackets do not spin. Once satisfied with their location,
install one tapcon screw (not included) in one of the remaining holes in the base
of the bracket to keep it from spinning. Use one of the 2 ½” screws instead of a
tapcon on wood decks. Now remove the template.
8. Post Bases: Notice that there is a top and bottom
of each post. The top is square, and the bottom of the
posts have 45 degree angle cuts creating an octagon
when looking at them from the bottom. There is a top
trim for the post base, made of four 2x2’s, that will go
onto the posts first, then the 36” tall post bases. Do not
attach the base trim to the posts.
9. Secure Post Base: Secure the post base above the
angled cuts so that the posts will attach to the bracket in the
next step. One screw will hold the base up until the connection
is made to the brackets.
10. Install the Posts: Slide the posts into the brackets so
that the bracket prongs are at the corners of the posts and sitting flat on the
bracket. Attach it using 2 ½” stainless steel screws (12 screws per post, 3 on each corner).
Do this on all posts before proceeding to the next step.
NOTE: A hole has been drilled on the bottom of each post. The nut and the top of
the wedge bolt should fit inside the hole so that the bottom of the posts rests on the
bracket plate, and not on the wedge bolt. If the wedge bolt prevents the post from
sitting on the plate, fix this by either cutting the top of the wedge bolt threads (above
the nut) or by drilling the hole deeper.
SECTION 2 –BEAMS
Note: The beams are pre-built and include 45 degree braces. Help is needed when
installing beams. Ideally, a minimum of 3 people one to hold each end of the beam in
place and one to screw to the posts. Some of the beams can be up to 16’ long and weigh
over a hundred pounds.

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7. Square the Brackets: It is a good idea to recheck the square of the brackets by
measuring opposing corners, similar to what was done when squaring the
template. Also be sure that the brackets are parallel with the other brackets. The
brackets can be rotated until they are aligned properly. Keeping the template in
place will ensure that the brackets do not spin. Once satisfied with their location,
install one tapcon screw (not included) in one of the remaining holes in the base
of the bracket to keep it from spinning. Use one of the 2 ½” screws instead of a
tapcon on wood decks. Now remove the template.
8. Post Bases: Notice that there is a top and bottom
of each post. The top is square, and the bottom of the
posts have 45 degree angle cuts creating an octagon
when looking at them from the bottom. There is a top
trim for the post base, made of four 2x2’s, that will go
onto the posts first, then the 36” tall post bases. Do not
attach the base trim to the posts.
9. Secure Post Base: Secure the post base above the
angled cuts so that the posts will attach to the bracket in the
next step. One screw will hold the base up until the connection
is made to the brackets.
10. Install the Posts: Slide the posts into the brackets so
that the bracket prongs are at the corners of the posts and sitting flat on the
bracket. Attach it using 2 ½” stainless steel screws (12 screws per post, 3 on each corner).
Do this on all posts before proceeding to the next step.
NOTE: A hole has been drilled on the bottom of each post. The nut and the top of
the wedge bolt should fit inside the hole so that the bottom of the posts rests on the
bracket plate, and not on the wedge bolt. If the wedge bolt prevents the post from
sitting on the plate, fix this by either cutting the top of the wedge bolt threads (above
the nut) or by drilling the hole deeper.
SECTION 2 –BEAMS
Note: The beams are pre-built and include 45 degree braces. Help is needed when
installing beams. Ideally, a minimum of 3 people one to hold each end of the beam in
place and one to screw to the posts. Some of the beams can be up to 16’ long and weigh
over a hundred pounds.
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Each beam will be comprised of: (A) a double beam -
two 2x6’s together; (B) a 2x4 bottom plate that will
hide the seam of the two 2x6 beams; (C) two “legs”
(one on each end), which are 1x4’s that will hold the
beam to the posts; and (D) two 45 degree braces.
Some pergolas may have larger members due to
customized or increased strength required, but the
basic beam assembly is the same.
1. Install the Beams: Though there is no set order, it
usually works best to install the shorter beams first.
Allowing a better feel for how they are done using
lighter beams. Lift the beam into place until the top of
the beam is flush with the top of the posts and
centered. Secure each beam with five 2½” screws –
three on the leg, one below the brace and two above.
(As shown to the right) There is also one screw on an
angle on both sides of the beam driven into the posts.
Do this on all connections to the posts.
2. Do the Same for Longer Beams:Note: If the pergola is over 16’ long, there will
be a center post, making two sets of beams for each side of the pergola. Installing
the beams is the same no matter how long or how many beams there are.
3. Install the Top Plate: The top plate is a piece of 2” x 8” wood that is precut to fit
on top of the beams. Rest all 4 pieces on top of the beams. Arrange them so that
they fit tight at the corners. (NOTE: On larger pergolas, there may be more than 4
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Each beam will be comprised of: (A) a double beam -
two 2x6’s together; (B) a 2x4 bottom plate that will
hide the seam of the two 2x6 beams; (C) two “legs”
(one on each end), which are 1x4’s that will hold the
beam to the posts; and (D) two 45 degree braces.
Some pergolas may have larger members due to
customized or increased strength required, but the
basic beam assembly is the same.
1. Install the Beams: Though there is no set order, it
usually works best to install the shorter beams first.
Allowing a better feel for how they are done using
lighter beams. Lift the beam into place until the top of
the beam is flush with the top of the posts and
centered. Secure each beam with five 2½” screws –
three on the leg, one below the brace and two above.
(As shown to the right) There is also one screw on an
angle on both sides of the beam driven into the posts.
Do this on all connections to the posts.
2. Do the Same for Longer Beams:Note: If the pergola is over 16’ long, there will
be a center post, making two sets of beams for each side of the pergola. Installing
the beams is the same no matter how long or how many beams there are.
3. Install the Top Plate: The top plate is a piece of 2” x 8” wood that is precut to fit
on top of the beams. Rest all 4 pieces on top of the beams. Arrange them so that
they fit tight at the corners. (NOTE: On larger pergolas, there may be more than 4

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Each beam will be comprised of: (A) a double beam -
two 2x6’s together; (B) a 2x4 bottom plate that will
hide the seam of the two 2x6 beams; (C) two “legs”
(one on each end), which are 1x4’s that will hold the
beam to the posts; and (D) two 45 degree braces.
Some pergolas may have larger members due to
customized or increased strength required, but the
basic beam assembly is the same.
1. Install the Beams: Though there is no set order, it
usually works best to install the shorter beams first.
Allowing a better feel for how they are done using
lighter beams. Lift the beam into place until the top of
the beam is flush with the top of the posts and
centered. Secure each beam with five 2½” screws –
three on the leg, one below the brace and two above.
(As shown to the right) There is also one screw on an
angle on both sides of the beam driven into the posts.
Do this on all connections to the posts.
2. Do the Same for Longer Beams:Note: If the pergola is over 16’ long, there will
be a center post, making two sets of beams for each side of the pergola. Installing
the beams is the same no matter how long or how many beams there are.
3. Install the Top Plate: The top plate is a piece of 2” x 8” wood that is precut to fit
on top of the beams. Rest all 4 pieces on top of the beams. Arrange them so that
they fit tight at the corners. (NOTE: On larger pergolas, there may be more than 4
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top plates as some of the sides will need more than one board.) Two of the top
plates have marks for positioning the runners –these are usually set on the longest
dimension since runners span the short dimension. On square pergolas, the parts
are interchangeable, but the top plates with the markings need to be on opposing
sides. Be sure that the markings are facing up as shown below.
4. Join the Top Plate Pieces: The top plate
pieces must be joined together before
attaching them to the top of the posts or to the
beam. Place 3 ½” screws on an angle at the
corners as shown. There are no predrilled
holes. Since the screw is close to the end,
predrill a 1/8” hole.
5. Attach Top Plates: Position the assembled
top plates so that the seams in the corners are
centered across the corner posts. The top plate
will overhang the beams by about ½”- 1" on
the inside. Before attaching to the posts and to the top of the beam with 2 ½"
screws, make sure that the overhangs are the
same along the entire perimeter. Attach with
two screws at an angled cut into the top of the
wood posts and then along the beam approx.
every 24”.
Note: If the top plates are more than one
piece, attach at the place where they join with
four screws –two on either side of the seam.
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top plates as some of the sides will need more than one board.) Two of the top
plates have marks for positioning the runners –these are usually set on the longest
dimension since runners span the short dimension. On square pergolas, the parts
are interchangeable, but the top plates with the markings need to be on opposing
sides. Be sure that the markings are facing up as shown below.
4. Join the Top Plate Pieces: The top plate
pieces must be joined together before
attaching them to the top of the posts or to the
beam. Place 3 ½” screws on an angle at the
corners as shown. There are no predrilled
holes. Since the screw is close to the end,
predrill a 1/8” hole.
5. Attach Top Plates: Position the assembled
top plates so that the seams in the corners are
centered across the corner posts. The top plate
will overhang the beams by about ½”- 1" on
the inside. Before attaching to the posts and to the top of the beam with 2 ½"
screws, make sure that the overhangs are the
same along the entire perimeter. Attach with
two screws at an angled cut into the top of the
wood posts and then along the beam approx.
every 24”.
Note: If the top plates are more than one
piece, attach at the place where they join with
four screws –two on either side of the seam.

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top plates as some of the sides will need more than one board.) Two of the top
plates have marks for positioning the runners –these are usually set on the longest
dimension since runners span the short dimension. On square pergolas, the parts
are interchangeable, but the top plates with the markings need to be on opposing
sides. Be sure that the markings are facing up as shown below.
4. Join the Top Plate Pieces: The top plate
pieces must be joined together before
attaching them to the top of the posts or to the
beam. Place 3 ½” screws on an angle at the
corners as shown. There are no predrilled
holes. Since the screw is close to the end,
predrill a 1/8” hole.
5. Attach Top Plates: Position the assembled
top plates so that the seams in the corners are
centered across the corner posts. The top plate
will overhang the beams by about ½”- 1" on
the inside. Before attaching to the posts and to the top of the beam with 2 ½"
screws, make sure that the overhangs are the
same along the entire perimeter. Attach with
two screws at an angled cut into the top of the
wood posts and then along the beam approx.
every 24”.
Note: If the top plates are more than one
piece, attach at the place where they join with
four screws –two on either side of the seam.
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SECTION 3 –MAIN RUNNERS
The main runners are 2x6’s that have decorative cuts on both ends (unless a special
order). They have markings on the top for the top runners.
Note about spacing: Generally both the main and top runners are spaced 16” on center
unless you order other spacing. Since the first runner on each side will align with the
edge of the top plate as explained below, the spacing may need adjusted. This is done
during production and the marks made accordingly. Most importantly, the top runners
have notches that coincide with the calculations made. Never change the placement of the
main runners, or the top runners will not fit.
Since the top runners have notches, the overhangs cannot be adjusted later. These runner
notches are “symmetrical” but the markings will be backwards if not arranged correctly.
It is a good idea to lay all the runners down next to each other to make sure the lines and
X's are aligned. Make sure not to flip the direction when installing.
1. Set the First Main Runner: As discussed in the previous section, two
sides of the top plate are lined with marks to guide your runner placement.
Set the first 2x6 runner on the corresponding top plate marks at the outer
sides. The end runners are set about ¼” from the edge of the runners. Do
not flush the runner to the end of the top plate. Set the first runner. Next,
adjust the runner placement back and
forth until each overhang has an equal
measurement. (Hint: you can “split the
distance” to center the pergolas) For
example, if you have a measurement of
2” on one side and 1 ½” on the other
side, the difference is ½”. Moving the
runner just ¼” will center it. Once the
overhang measurement is the same,
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SECTION 3 –MAIN RUNNERS
The main runners are 2x6’s that have decorative cuts on both ends (unless a special
order). They have markings on the top for the top runners.
Note about spacing: Generally both the main and top runners are spaced 16” on center
unless you order other spacing. Since the first runner on each side will align with the
edge of the top plate as explained below, the spacing may need adjusted. This is done
during production and the marks made accordingly. Most importantly, the top runners
have notches that coincide with the calculations made. Never change the placement of the
main runners, or the top runners will not fit.
Since the top runners have notches, the overhangs cannot be adjusted later. These runner
notches are “symmetrical” but the markings will be backwards if not arranged correctly.
It is a good idea to lay all the runners down next to each other to make sure the lines and
X's are aligned. Make sure not to flip the direction when installing.
1. Set the First Main Runner: As discussed in the previous section, two
sides of the top plate are lined with marks to guide your runner placement.
Set the first 2x6 runner on the corresponding top plate marks at the outer
sides. The end runners are set about ¼” from the edge of the runners. Do
not flush the runner to the end of the top plate. Set the first runner. Next,
adjust the runner placement back and
forth until each overhang has an equal
measurement. (Hint: you can “split the
distance” to center the pergolas) For
example, if you have a measurement of
2” on one side and 1 ½” on the other
side, the difference is ½”. Moving the
runner just ¼” will center it. Once the
overhang measurement is the same,

Page | 6
SECTION 3 –MAIN RUNNERS
The main runners are 2x6’s that have decorative cuts on both ends (unless a special
order). They have markings on the top for the top runners.
Note about spacing: Generally both the main and top runners are spaced 16” on center
unless you order other spacing. Since the first runner on each side will align with the
edge of the top plate as explained below, the spacing may need adjusted. This is done
during production and the marks made accordingly. Most importantly, the top runners
have notches that coincide with the calculations made. Never change the placement of the
main runners, or the top runners will not fit.
Since the top runners have notches, the overhangs cannot be adjusted later. These runner
notches are “symmetrical” but the markings will be backwards if not arranged correctly.
It is a good idea to lay all the runners down next to each other to make sure the lines and
X's are aligned. Make sure not to flip the direction when installing.
1. Set the First Main Runner: As discussed in the previous section, two
sides of the top plate are lined with marks to guide your runner placement.
Set the first 2x6 runner on the corresponding top plate marks at the outer
sides. The end runners are set about ¼” from the edge of the runners. Do
not flush the runner to the end of the top plate. Set the first runner. Next,
adjust the runner placement back and
forth until each overhang has an equal
measurement. (Hint: you can “split the
distance” to center the pergolas) For
example, if you have a measurement of
2” on one side and 1 ½” on the other
side, the difference is ½”. Moving the
runner just ¼” will center it. Once the
overhang measurement is the same,
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remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
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remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.

Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.
Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.

Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.
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