Prusa Research ORIGINAL i3 MK3S+ KIT User manual

Prusa Research a.s.
Partyzánská 188/7A
170 00 Praha
www.prusa3d.com
[e-mail]
3D PRINTING
HANDBOOK
USER MANUAL FOR 3D PRINTERS:
– ORIGINAL PRUSA i3 MK3S+ KIT
– ORIGINAL PRUSA i3 MK3S+
ENG

Please always refer to the https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/
for an updated version of this 3D printing handbook (PDF download).
Translated versions of the handbook are available at: Czech: www.prusa3d.cz/ovladace/
| French: www.prusa3d.fr/drivers/ |German: www.prusa3d.de/treiber/ | Polish:
prusa3d.pl/sterowniki/ | Italian: www.prusa3d.it/driver/ | Spanish:
www.prusa3d.es/drivers-y-manuales/
This handbook covers both Original Prusa i3 MK3S and Original Prusa i3
MK3S+ 3D printers with the latest firmware version installed. Always check if
you have the latest firmware - see chapter 13. 9. Updating printer firmware
QUICK GUIDE TO THE FIRST PRINT
1. Read the safety instructions carefully (page 7)
2. Place the printer on a flat and stable surface (page 10)
3. Download and install the drivers (page 47)
4. Calibrate the printer by following our calibration flow / wizard (page 12)
5. Insert the SD card into the printer and print your first model (page 29)
Important notice, tip, hint or information that helps you print with ease.
Read carefully! This part of the text has the greatest importance - either for user
safety or for proper printer service.
This symbol indicates text related to a printer kit only.
How to contact our support: First, check the last chapters of this handbook for
troubleshooting guides, or visit https://help.prusa3d.com for a complete list of common
issues, print quality troubleshooting and other guides. If your problem is not listed there, or
the solution does not work, please send an e-mail to [email protected] or use the Live chat
at https://shop.prusa3d.com. Try to explain your problem as thoroughly as possible.
JOSEF PRUSA®, PRUSA RESEARCH®, PRUSA POLYMERS®, PRUSA ORANGE®, ORIGINAL PRUSA®, PRUSA 3D®, and
PRUSAMENT® are registered trademarks of Prusa Development a.s. in the United States and the European Union used under
the license by Prusa Research a.s. | JOSEF PRUSA, ORIGINAL PRUSA, and PRUSAMENT are registered trademarks (or
registration pending) of Prusa Development a.s. in Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Mexico, South Korea, Turkey, Ukraine,
Russia, Kazachstan, Switzerland, China, Columbia, Uzbekistan, Philippines, and Norway used under the license by Prusa
Research a.s. | Other company names and product names appearing in this publication are the trademarks and registered
trademarks of their respective companies.
Handbook version 3.16 from August 2, 2021 © Prusa Research a.s.
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About the author
Josef Prusa (born Feb 23rd, 1990) became interested in the 3D printing phenomenon before
joining Prague’s University of Economics in 2009 - at first, it was a hobby, a new technology
open to changes and improvements. The hobby soon became a passion and Josef grew into
one of the leading developers of Adrien Bowyer’s international, open-source, RepRap
project. Today, you can see the Prusa design in different versions all around the world, it is
one of the most popular printers and thanks to it, knowledge about the 3D printing
technology significantly increased among the public.
Jo’s work on self-replicating printers (you can print the other printer parts with your printer)
still ongoing and the latest model, Original Prusa i3 MK3S+, is currently on the market - it’s
an improved version of the original 3D printer’s third iteration. It is constantly updated with
the latest innovations and you've just purchased its latest version. In addition to printer
hardware upgrades, the main goal is to make the technology more accessible and
understandable to all users.
Josef Prusa also organizes workshops for the public, participates in professional
conferences dedicated to the popularization of 3D printing. For example, he lectured at the
TEDx conference in Prague and Vienna, at World Maker Faire in New York, Maker Faire in
Rome or at the Open Hardware Summit hosted by MIT. Josef also teaches Arduino at
Charles University and was also a lecturer at the Academy of Arts in Prague.
In his own words, he imagines 3D printers will be available in every home in the
not-too-distant future. “If anything is needed, you can simply print it. In this field, you just
push the boundaries every day... We're glad you're part of it with us!”
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Table of contents
2 Product details 6
3 Introduction - Glossary,Disclaimer,Safety instructions,Licenses 6
4 Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer 8
5 Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer kit 9
6 First steps 10
6.1 Printer unpacking and proper handling 10
6.2 Printer assembly 11
6.3 Setup before printing 11
6.3.1 Calibration flow and wizard 12
6.3.2 Preparation of the spring steel sheet 13
6.3.3 Increasing the adhesion 18
6.3.4 Selftest (kit only) 18
6.3.5 Calibrate XYZ (kit only) 20
6.3.6 Calibrate Z 23
6.3.7 Mesh bed leveling 24
6.3.8 Loading the filament into the extruder 25
6.3.9 First layer calibration (kit only) 26
6.3.10 Fine tuning the first layer 29
7 Printing 30
7.1 Removing objects from the printer 30
7.2 Printer Control 31
7.2.1 LCD screen 31
7.2.2 Controlling the LCD screen 31
7.2.3 Print statistics 32
7.2.4 Fail stats 32
7.2.5 Normal vs. Stealth mode 33
7.2.6 Factory reset 33
7.2.7 SD card sorting 34
7.2.8 Testing if file (.gcode) is complete 34
7.2.9 LCD layout 35
7.2.10 Print speed versus print quality 37
7.2.11 USB cable and Pronterface 38
7.2.12 Power panic 39
7.2.13 Crash detection 40
7.2.14 Temperatures 40
7.2.15 Voltages 40
7.2.16 Safety timer 41
7.2.17 Beeper settings 41
7.2.18 Language settings 41
7.2.19 Dump memory 41
7.3 Printer addons 42
7.3.1 Different nozzles 42
7.3.2 Original Prusa Multi Material Upgrade 2S 43
7.3.3 Connecting Raspberry Pi Zero W 44
8 Advanced Calibration 45
8.1 Steel sheet profiles 45
8.2 Nozzle diameter setup 45
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8.3 PID tuning for Hotend (Optional) 45
8.4 PINDA probe calibration / Temp. calibration (Experimental/Optional) 46
8.5 View XYZ calibration details (Optional) 46
8.6 Linear Advance 47
8.7 Extruder info 47
8.8 Sensor info 47
8.9 Display brightness 48
9 Printer drivers 48
10 Creating and printing your own models 48
10.1 Where can you get the 3D models? 48
10.1.1 PrusaPrinters 49
10.1.2 Bundled 3D models 49
10.2 In what program can you create your own models? 49
10.3 Modeling with 3D printing in mind 50
10.3.1 Overhangs and support material 50
10.3.2 Fillet vs chamfer 51
10.3.3 Thin walls and minimum feature size 51
10.3.4 Splitting model into multiple parts 51
10.3.5 Tolerances 52
11 Slicing 52
11.1 PrusaSlicer 53
11.2 Printing of non-standard models 54
11.2.1 Printing with support material 54
11.2.2 Large object printing 54
11.3 Print in color with ColorPrint 56
12 Materials 58
12.1 PLA, PETG, ASA/ABS, PC Blend, Flex, CPE, Nylon, XT, HT, Composites, HIPS, PVA, nGen, PP, T-Glase 58
12.16 Creating profiles for new materials 67
13 FAQ - Printer maintenance and print issues 68
13.1 Regular maintenance 68
13.2 Print surface preparation 69
13.3 Filament sensor 70
13.4 Clogged / jammed extruder 71
13.5 Nozzle cleaning 72
13.6 Replacing / changing the nozzle 73
13.7 Printing problems 75
13.7.1 Layers break and split when printing from ABS material 75
13.7.2 Models contain either too much or not enough of the filament 75
13.8 Problems with finished models 75
13.8.1 Model breaks and/or is easily damaged 75
13.9 Updating printer firmware 76
13.10 Linearity correction 77
14 FAQ - common issues when assembling the printer kit 77
14.1 Printer is rocking - YZ frame - geometry check 77
14.2 Printer stops printing soon after start 78
14.3 Printer can’t read the SD card 78
14.4 Loose X- and/or Y-axis belts 78
14.5 Cables detached from the heatbed 79
15 FAQ - Error messages 80
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2 Product details
Title: Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ / Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ (kit), Filament: 1.75 mm
Manufacturer: Prusa Research a.s., Partyzánská 188/7A, Prague, 170 00, Czech Republic
E-mail: [email protected]
EEE group: 3 (IT and/or telecommunication equipment), Device use: indoor only
Power supply: 90-135 VAC, 3.6 A / 180-264 VAC, 1.8 A (50-60 Hz)
Working temperature range: 18 °C (PLA)-38 °C, indoor use only
Working humidity: 85 % or less
Kit weight (gross / net): 9.8 kg / 6.3 kg, assembled printer weight (gross / net): 12 kg / 6.3 kg.
The serial number is located on the printer frame and also on the packaging.
3 Introduction
Thank you for purchasing 3D printer Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ from Josef Prusa either as
an assembled printer or a printer kit - your purchase supports us with its further
development. Please, read the handbook carefully, since all chapters contain valuable info
for the correct service of the printer. Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ is a successor to Original
Prusa i3 MK2S with numerous hardware and software upgrades, which lead to improved
reliability and ease of use and assembly.
In case of any printer-related problem, do not hesitate to contact us at inf[email protected] or
via 24/7 live chat at shop.prusa3d.com. We are glad to receive all of your valuable
comments and tips. We also suggest you visit our official forum at forum.prusaprinters.org,
where you can find solutions to common issues, tips, advice and hints, in addition to actual
information about the Original Prusa i3 printer’s development.
3.1 Glossary
Bed, Heatbed, Printbed - The commonly used term for the printing pad - a heated area of
the 3D printer where 3D objects are printed.
Extruder - The printing head also known as an extruder, is a part of a printer consisting of a
nozzle, hobbed pulley, idler, and a nozzle fan.
Filament - The term for plastic provided on a spool. It’s used throughout this handbook as
well as in the LCD menu on the printer.
Heater, Hotend - Other names for a printing nozzle.
1.75 - 3D printers use two different diameters (thickness) of filament: 2.85 mm (commonly
called as 3 mm) and 1.75 mm. Worldwide, the 1.75mm version is used more, although there
is no difference in printing quality.
3.2 Disclaimer
Failure to read the handbook may lead to personal injury, inferior results, or damage to the
3D printer. Always ensure that anyone who operates the 3D printer knows and understands
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the contents of the Manual. We cannot control the conditions in which you assemble the
Original Prusa i3. For this, and other reasons, we do not assume responsibility, and
expressly disclaim liability for loss, injuries, damage, or expense arising out of, or in any way
connected with, the assembly, handling, storage, use or disposal of the product. The
information in this handbook is provided without any warranty, expressed or implied,
regarding its correctness.
3.3 Safety instructions
Please be very cautious during any interaction with the printer. This printer is an
electrical device with moving parts and hot-temperature areas.
1. The device is for indoor use only. Do not expose the printer to rain or snow. Always keep
the printer in a dry environment at a minimum distance of 30 cm from other objects.
2. Always place the printer on a stable place, where it cannot fall or tip over.
3. The printer supply is household power outlet 230 VAC, 50 Hz or 110 VAC / 60 Hz. Never
connect the printer to a different power supply; it may cause malfunction or damage to the
printer.
4. Place the power cord so you cannot stumble on it or step on it, or otherwise expose it to
any potential damage. Also, make sure that the power cord is not mechanically or otherwise
damaged. If so stop using the damaged power cord immediately, and replace it.
5. When you disconnect the power cord from the socket, pull the plug rather than the cord to
reduce the risk of damage to the plug or to the AC outlet.
6. Never disassemble the printer power supply; it does not contain any parts that could be
repaired by an unskilled worker. All repairs must be performed by a qualified technician.
7. Do not touch the nozzle or heatbed when the printer is printing or warming up. Note that
the temperature of the nozzle is 210-300 °C (410-572 °F); heatbed temperature can reach
over 100 °C (212 °F). Temperatures above 40 °C (104 °F) can cause harm to the human
body.
8. Do not reach inside the printer while it is still in operation. An injury may be caused by its
moving parts.
9. Prevent children from unsupervised access to the printer even when the printer is not
printing.
10. Do not leave the printer unattended while it's still on! While the device has a number of
safety features and temperature monitoring, incorrect wiring, damaged cables, failure of
components, and/or failure to follow the instructions of this handbook may lead to a fire
hazard.
11. Plastic is being melted during printing which produces odors. Set up the printer in a
well-ventilated place.
3.4 Licenses
The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer is a part of the RepRap project, the first open source
3D printer project free to use under a GNU GPL v3 license
(www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl-3.0.en.html). If you improve or alter any part of a printer, and you
are willing to sell it, then you have to publish the source code under the same license. All
3D-printed elements of the printer that can be improved upon can be found at
https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/.
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4 Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer
Unlike the printer kit, the printer comes completely assembled and almost ready to print.
After plugging in, and running the necessary calibration, you can print a 3D object in a matter
of minutes after unpacking the printer. Keep in mind, you can use our support email or live
chat when you purchase the assembled printer. Do not hesitate to write to us if you need any
advice or help. See the contact information on page 2.
3D printers use two different diameters of filament: 2.85 mm and 1.75 mm (you can
find more in the chapter Materials). The 1.75mm version is used more frequently
worldwide, although there is no difference in printing quality. The filament is provided
on a spool, which should feature a list of basic information - filament maker, material
(ABS, PLA, etc.) and filament diameter. 2.85 mm filament is commonly called 3 mm.
This printer supports only a 1.75 mm filament. Please check that the filament diameter is
1.75 mm before inserting it into the extruder. Do not try to insert wider filament; it could
damage the extruder.
Pict. 1 - Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer description: (1) Filament spool; (2) Spool holder;
(3) Z-Axis; (4) Power supply; (5) X-Axis; (6) Z2 Stepper; (7) Heatbed with spring steel sheet;
(8) LCD Knob; (9) Reset Button; (10) Threaded Rod; (11) Printer Frame; (12) USB Port;
(13) Einsy Rambo Board; (14) Extruder Stepper; (15) X-Stepper; (16) Z1 Stepper;
(17) Y-Axis; (18) LCD Panel; (19) SD Card Slot
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5 Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer kit
Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit is shown in pict. 2. Detailed information and assembly
instructions can be found in chapter 6.2 Printer assembly. Keep in mind, you can use
our support email or live chat when you purchase the kit. Do not hesitate to write to
us if you need any advice or help. Follow the contact information on page 2.
Pict. 2 - Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer kit unboxed
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6 First steps
6.1 Printer unpacking and proper handling
While holding the upper frame, take the printer and pull it out from the box. Be careful when
handling the printer not to damage the electronics and thus the proper printer functionality.
Any time you move the printer, always hold the upper frame with the heatbed horizontal to
the ground, pointing away from you as pictured in pict. 3.When unpacking the fully
assembled version, remove the top foam from the box and gently lift the printer up. Parts of
the printer are secured by more foam which needs to be removed. Some parts are
additionally secured with the white zip-ties, cut those off too.
Pict. 3 - Proper handling of the printer
Both the assembled version and the kit version come with a few things you might need
during the printer use.
-USB Cable - used for uploading new firmware or alternatively printing from the
computer.
-Acupuncture needle - used for cleaning a clogged nozzle. See chapter 13.5 Nozzle
cleaning for more information.
-Glue stick - Used for better adhesion of Nylon, or as a separator for Flex materials.
See chapter 12 Materials for more information.
- Lubricant - After a certain period of time (see the Chapter 13.1 Regular
maintenance), your 3D printer should be cleaned and greased in order to work
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properly. No need to apply this lubricant during the first assembly of the kit, all parts
are greased by the manufacturer.
- Tools and Spare parts - Includes needle-nose pliers, a Phillips screwdriver, Allen
keys and a package of the small spare parts (fasteners, magnets, PTFE tube).
- IPA pads - Several IPA pads to clean your print sheet.
- Test protocol - All the components of every printer are tested. The electronic parts
are connected (as in a final assembly) and a battery of tests is run. The serial
number stickers and the test protocol are printed only when the components pass all
of the tests. The test protocol lists all the test results.
6.2 Printer assembly
For the Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer kit, we suggest following the guidelines and
assembling the kit according to the online manual at help.prusa3d.com. (The online
manual is available in several languages on the website). The construction of the
printer should not take more than one working day. After successful completion,
continue to chapter 6.3 Setup before printing.
6.3 Setup before printing
● Place the printer in a horizontally stable position; the best place is a workbench
where there is no risk of a draft.
● Attach the filament holders to the upper frame.
● Attach a spool of Filament to the holders. Make sure the filament spool doesn’t jam
and can move freely.
● Plug in the AC power cord and turn on the switch.
● Check out the firmware version (in the Support menu via LCD panel) and please
upgrade to the latest one from our website www.prusa3d.com/drivers.
Filament is a common term for the plastic rod - material provided on a spool from
which 3D objects are printed.
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6.3.1 Calibration flow and wizard
With the first start-up of your freshly-assembled printer, it will guide you through all the tests
and calibrations you need to do to get started printing.
The Wizard can be also started manually from LCD menu - Calibration - Wizard. Do not
forget to read chapter 6.3.2 Preparation of the spring steel sheet before running the Wizard.
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It follows the calibration flow and helps you with the following steps:
● Selftest -Chapter 6.3.4
● Calibrate XYZ -Chapter 6.3.5
● Loading the filament -Chapter 6.3.8
● First layer calibration -Chapter 6.3.9
It is not mandatory to use it, and you can cancel the Wizard at the beginning. Then you
should just follow the calibration flow manually.
Pict. 4 - Wizard setup
There are a few special occasions where you will need to redo the calibration or a part of it.
●Firmware update - A complete guide is in chapter 13.9 Updating printer firmware.
● Readjusting the SuperPINDA probe - Run 6.3.6 Calibrate Z to store new reference
Z height values.
It is important to disconnect the printer USB from any computer or OctoPrint running
on Raspberry Pi for the whole calibration because, during the calibration, the printer
will not respond to any request from a host connected via USB, and communication
will time out. Such a time out would cause the host to reset the connection, causing
the printer to restart (in the middle of calibration) and it might end up in a weird state
requiring 7.2.6 Factory Reset.
6.3.2 Preparation of the spring steel sheet
The MK52 heatbed has embedded high curie temperature magnets. These magnets are
able to firmly hold removable spring steel sheets. There are two pins at the end of the
heatbed that will align perfectly with cut out slots in the spring steel sheets. Make sure the
bed is clean and there isn’t any debris on it before you put on the steel sheet.Never print
directly on the heatbed.
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Pict. 5 - HeatBed MK52 base and powder coated steel sheet surface
To achieve the best adhesion on the new surface, it is important to keep the surface clean.
Cleaning the surface is very easy. The best option is Isopropyl alcohol available in
drugstores which is the best for ABS, PLA, and others. Except for PETG in combination with
the smooth PEI sheet, where the adhesion may be too strong, use Windex instead as it
degreases less thoroughly. Pour a little amount on an unscented paper towel and wipe the
print surface. The bed should be cleaned while cold for the best results but it can also be
cleaned when already preheated for PLA, just be careful not to touch the bed surface or the
nozzle. When cleaning at higher temperatures, the alcohol will evaporate before it can clean
anything. Alternatively, you can clean the bed with warm water and a few drops of dish
soap on a paper towel. Denatured alcohol is yet another option.
Consumable parts, such as PEI sheets (smooth, textured, satin, etc.) are not covered
by warranty as the coatings will deteriorate over time unless failure has occurred due
to a defect in materials or workmanship. Cosmetic damage, including but not limited
to scratches, dents, cracks or other cosmetic damage is also not covered by the
warranty. Only defective sheets on arrival are covered by warranty.
Calibration might be slightly different for different steel print sheets as the coating
thickness varies. It is a good practice to check the first layer and adjust accordingly
with Live adjust Z when switching between different types of steel sheets.
The surface does not have to be cleaned before every print! It is just important to not
touch the steel sheet with your hands or dirty tools.Clean your tools with the
same solution as you would the sheet and you will be able to start your next print
right away.
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Pict. 6 - Steel print sheets - smooth, satin and textured powder-coated PEI sheet
All original print surfaces by Prusa Research are coated from both sides.
Pict. 7 - Smooth PEI sheet (left), Satin powder coated sheet (middle), textured powder
coated PEI sheet (right) effect on the first layer
Due to a different thickness of the sheets, each sheet requires individual First layer
calibration. To avoid re-calibrating every time you switch the sheet, you can save the
settings for up to 8 sheets. Read more about this feature in chapter 8.1 Steel sheet
profiles
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6.3.2.1 Double-sided textured PEI powder-coated spring steel sheet
Scratchproof, hard to damage
PLA prints with a small contact area
may need a brim
Transfers texture to prints
PLA prints with a huge footprint (one
side 18cm+) may warp
More forgiving Live Adjust Z setting
Live Adjust Z value needs to be
changed if you switch sheets
No need for Windex with PETG
Never clean with acetone
No need for glue stick with FLEX
Prints automatically detach after sheet
cools down
First layer can be more squished
compared to smooth sheets
Powder coating directly on metal makes it very hard to damage this build plate. If a heated
nozzle crashes into it, the metal can dissipate the heat. Powder coating also gives the
surface a distinct textured look that will be visible on your prints.
The textured surface hides most of the mechanical damage caused by tools. Only the top of
the small bumps can be scratched, which will not imprint on the bottom of the model.
Never clean the textured powder coated sheet with acetone! Doing so will
create microfractures in the PEI texture, which will make the surface deteriorate
over time.
This surface is used on our print farm, look at the printed parts you have on your printer for
reference.
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6.3.2.2 Spring steel sheet with smooth double-sided PEI
Perfect for PLA
Do not clean with IPA before PETG
Release agent might be necessary
Great adhesion with almost all
materials
You must apply glue stick when
printing Flex
Smooth bottom of prints
Live Adjust Z value needs to be
changed if you switch sheets
Tiny details will stick great
Rejuvenate with acetone from time to
time
You can leave small marks on the print surface with your nozzle or tools, they will typically be
shinier than the rest. It does not affect functionality or adhesion. However, if you want to
have the same surface look on the whole printbed, you can rejuvenate it. The easiest way is
to take the hard side of a dry kitchen sponge and gently wipe the affected area with a
circular motion a few times.
The industrial glue which holds the PEI sheet on the heatbed itself softens when
temperatures greater than 110 °C are used. If higher temperatures are used, the glue
can migrate under the PEI and create slight bumps on the surface. To remove the
bubbles, flip the sheet and print on the other side - they should disappear after a couple of
prints.
6.3.2.3 Double-sided Powder-coated Satin Spring Steel Sheet
Suitable for both PLA and PETG
Prints from ASA, PC Blend require a
brim / skirt / shield around the print
Lightly textured matte finish
Live Adjust Z value needs to be
changed if you switch sheets
No need for Windex with PETG
DO NOT use sharp metal objects
(e.g. a spatula) to remove the print!
No need for glue stick with FlexFill98A
Never clean with acetone
Prints automatically detach after sheet
cools down
The Satin powder coated sheet sits between the smooth and textured variants. Its
powder-coated surface with lightly textured matte finish offers an optimal level of adhesion,
especially when printing PLA and PETG materials. It is fully compatible with a wide range of
common and less-common filaments, such as ABS, ASA, FlexFill 98A, Polycarbonate and
more. A vast majority of materials can be printed without a separation layer (e.g. glue).
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Polycarbonate - prints better on satin (compared to smooth and textured sheets) - when
printing with PC often, glue stick layer is recommended to prevent possible damage to the
sheet.
Never clean the satin powder coated sheet with acetone! Doing so will create
microfractures in the PEI coating and cause the surface to deteriorate.
6.3.2.4 Aftermarket sheets
The MK3S+ is a fully open source, so we expect other manufacturers to manufacture
compatible aftermarket sheets. Look for references online before buying them, or check with
our online support.
Sheets must be coated from both sides! If only one side is coated, the metal edge
on the bottom side can damage the heated bed surface when the protective
lacquer is scratched off.
6.3.3 Increasing the adhesion
On some special occasions, such as printing a tall object with a very small contact area (with
the print surface), you might need to increase the adhesion. Fortunately, PEI is a very
chemically resistant polymer and you can temporarily apply various adhesion solutions
without damaging it. This also applies to materials that would not stick to PEI otherwise, like
Nylon, etc.
Before applying anything onto the bed, consider using the Brim option in PrusaSlicer which
increases the surface area of the first layer.
For Nylon blends, a simple glue stick does the trick. The glue can be easily removed later
either using a window cleaner or dish soap water.
For ABS prints, ABS juice can be used and later cleaned with pure acetone. Be very gentle
when applying the juice and do so while the bed is cold. Prints will attach very strongly. Do
not use ABS juice on the powder-coated spring steel sheet!
Prepared juice can also be purchased in our e-shop. Unfortunately, carriers do not
allow us to deliver any acetone-based products due to shipping constraints. In that
case, you get only the bottle and ABS from our e-shop and you have to source the
acetone locally.
6.3.4 Selftest (kit only)
The purpose of the selftest routine is to check the most common errors when assembling
and connecting electronics and to help indicate any possible errors after the assembly. You
can run the Selftest from the Calibration menu on the LCD panel. This should not be
necessary on the assembled printers as those are pretested.
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This routine consists of a series of tests. The progress and results of each step are
displayed on the LCD. In case errors are found, the selftest is interrupted and the reason for
the error is shown to guide users in troubleshooting.
The selftest is just a diagnostic tool, the printer will still attempt to print even after
the test fails. If you are absolutely certain that the affected part is correct, you may
continue with the print process.
The test consists of
●Extruder and print fan test
●Heatbed and hotend proper wiring
●XYZ motors proper wiring and functionality
●XY axis length
●XY belts tension
●Loose belt pulley test
● Filament sensor test
6.3.4.1 Selftest error messages and resolution (kit only)
Front print fan/ Left hotend fan - Not spinning:
Check proper wiring of the print and the hotend fan cables. Ensure that both are
properly connected to the EINSY electronics and that they are not swapped.
Please check/ Not connected - Heater/ Thermistor:
Check the proper wiring of the hotend power cables and the thermistor cables.
Ensure that both are properly connected to the EINSY electronics and that they are
not swapped.
Bed/Heater - Wiring error:
Check that the heatbed and the hotend power cables are not swapped or that the
thermistor cables from both the hotend and the heatbed are not swapped in the
EINSY electronics.
Loose pulley - Pulley {XY}:
The belt pulley is loose and slips on the motor shaft. It is important to tighten the first
grub screw on the flat piece of the shaft, then continue with the second grub screw.
Axis length - {XY}:
The printer measures the length of the axis by moving the print head from end to end
twice. If the measured value is different from the physical length, your print head
might be blocked from moving all the way. Check by hand if the print head moves
smoothly when the printer is powered off.
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Endstops - Wiring error - Z:
Check the proper cabling of the SuperPINDA probe. Routine indicates the
SuperPINDA probe has a malfunction or is not properly responding. Check for the
proper connection in the EINSY electronics.
Endstop not hit - Motor Z:
Check if the print head can be moved all the way down the Z-axis to trigger the
SuperPINDA probe over the bed.
Please check: Filament sensor - Wiring error:
Check the wiring of the filament sensor cable for any damage. Ensure that one end is
connected to the filament sensor and the other one to the correct slot on the EINSY
board.
6.3.5 Calibrate XYZ (kit only)
The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ comes with a full mesh bed leveling feature,
however, for this to work, we need to first calibrate the distance between the tip of
the nozzle and the SuperPINDA (Prusa INDuction Autoleveling) probe.
The process is fairly straightforward; so let’s get to it.
The purpose of the X/Y/Z calibration routine is to measure the skew of the X/Y/Z axes and to
find the position of the 4 calibration points on the print bed for proper bed leveling. You can
run the XYZ calibration from the Calibration menu on the LCD panel. This should not be
necessary on the assembled printers as those are factory calibrated.
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