Redpath The Beast User manual

Instructions & Illustrations for the Redpath Beast
Glasshouse 3.2m x 6.3m
16 Bounty Place, Palmerston North Freephone: 0508 733 728 Freefax: 0508 733 727
www.redpath.co.nz
PLEASE TAKE CARE WHEN HANDLING GLASS DURING ASSEMBLY OR USING
THIS GLASSHOUSE –GLASS CAN BREAK FROM IMPACT OR STORM DAMAGE
STAY OUTSIDE OF THE GLASSHOUSE IN HIGH WIND OR STORM CONDITIONS As of
29.06.21

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PARTS LIST –FOR THE BEAST SERIES GLASSHOUSE
6.3m
1
Ridge
1
2
Gutter/Eave
2
3
Side cill
2
4
Side bracing angle
8
5
Alloy shelf 8’ long
1
6
Rear end horizontal angle
Taped together
1
7
Rear end cill
and marked
1
8
Long rear end glazing bar
rear end
1
9
Medium rear end glazing bar
2
10
Shorter rear end glazing bar
2
11
Diagonal angles for rear end
2
12
Door end cill
Taped together
1
13
Medium door end glazing bar
and marked
2
14
Shorter door end glazing bar
rear end
2
15
Short door end glazing bar
1
16
Main door track support
1
17
Diagonal angles for door end
2
18
Upper horizontal angles end
2
19
Lower horizontal angles end
2
20
Corner bar in 2 packs of 4
8
21
Roof glazing bar
18
22
Long roof bracing angle
4
23
Short roof bracing angle
4
24
Side glazing bar
18
25
Vent packs in roof
4
26
Vent packs for side
2
27
Top door track
1
28
Door panels –Top panel - 2
Taped together and
2
Bottom panel –2
marked door
Intermediate panel –3
29
Door post –handed left –1
Taped together
1
Handed right –1
and marked
Unhanded –2
door
Angle –1
30
Tee bar cantilever
27
31
Glazing beading
700’
32
Bag of fittings
1
33
Gusset plates, eave
4
34
Gusset plates, ridge
2
35
Casement stay
4
Glass is supplied from your local merchant. Redpath will advise your local merchant to deliver the glass when the customer has
advised Redpath that they are ready for the glass to be installed. (The glass IS NOT freighted with the glasshouse due to the
high likelihood of the glass being damaged in transit or in storage on customers site).

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REDPATH BEAST GLASSHOUSE BASE DIMENSIONS
(Materials not supplied)
Base material may be: Timber, Brick, Block, or Concrete
(Dimensions shown are to the exterior edges)
The dimensions given below are for the base & ground anchoring system of your Glasshouse. You will need to supply the materials
& construct these using Concrete, Brick or Timber. Ensure that dimensions A & B are not exceeded! as these are precise outside
measurements enabling the aluminum base cill of the glasshouse (supplied) to overhang the edges of your base. Also ensure that
the base is square by measuring across the corners (C) in both directions. Only when this measurement is equal is the base square!
Check the level using a builder’s spirit level –in directions (A), (B) & (C) The building & its glass cladding relies on the buildings base
being level in all directions. The height of the base is typically up to 150mm above ground level, with a portion of the base being
below ground level. If using Timber for the base, the base will need to be secured to the ground with pegs spaced at a width & depth
to suit your chosen sites wind exposure & ground conditions.
HELPFUL HINTS & ADVICE
Please take your time and be sure to read all instructions carefully before assembling. The glasshouse structure does often require
at minimum an “experienced DIY” type person or a semi-skilled builder to assemble.
Locate the glasshouse in a sheltered or semi-sheltered position. Glass is a fragile product and strong winds, or flying debris could
potentially damage the glass sheeting. Secure the roof vents in a closed position, close doors & windows if very windy. A shelter
belt should be considered to protect the glasshouse and plants within in windy locations.
Do not assemble the frame or attempt to glaze in windy, or damp conditions
The glasshouse frame must be anchored to a permanent foundation / base. This will not only help secure it against strong winds,
but will help prevent breakage of the glass via ground movement. Materials for the base are optional & are not supplied as part of
this kitset.
When building your own timber/brick/concrete foundations/base ensure that they are level and square and built to the correct
outside measurements otherwise your frame will not be correct and the glass will not fit.
MODEL: Nominal frame size
A(actual base size width)
B(actual base size length)
C(actual diagonal –check)
BEAST 3.2m x 6.3m
3195mm
6284mm
7050mm
Note: Please check with your local council whether a building permit is
required for your glasshouse before construction commences

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Be sure all four corners of the constructed glasshouse are square before installing any glass, and do not install the glass until the
glasshouse is secured onto a permanent foundation/base.
Do not place your glasshouse in vulnerable locations such as under trees, near children’s playing areas, upon loose soils, in an
open exposed place with open field or distant views.
Children should not be allowed to play near the glasshouses. (Note: toughened glass can be fitted to the Redpath glasshouse
range as an option & we can quote you for this feature if required)
REMEMBER: Glass is fragile. Handle with extreme Care! & BEWARE of sharp edges! (Key Point). Protective clothing such as
gloves, strong outer clothing and eyeglasses should be worn. Beware that flying glass from strong wind can/will travel some
distance and can be a dangerous hazard for property and persons surrounding the glasshouse.
Be careful when using agricultural chemicals such as fertilizers, fungicides and insecticides etc. in the glasshouse. Do not use
chemicals that are for outside use only. Always read the labels very carefully.
Do not push or lean on the glass panels. Do not lean weighty objects onto the glass. Use extra care when moving heavy or
awkward objects such as tables, poles, internal frames etc. within or near the glasshouse.
Do not latch the door when anybody is inside the glasshouse. Do not occupy the glasshouse in times of high wind or poor weather
(hail etc)
Be aware of the increased temperature in the glasshouse on a sunny day & allow for shading, or extra ventilation for these higher
temperatures.
Do not keep pets or other animals in the glasshouse & try to prevent their entry.
When cleaning glass, do not exert too much pressure onto the glass.
Bolts may need greased to avoid binding.
DETAILED ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
The contents of this carton are divided into the different frame assemblies that collectively make up the complete unit.
It is recommended that each frame assembly is fully completed before moving on to the next.
The frames to be constructed are as follows:
1. SIDE FRAME –Two of.
2. REAR GABLE –One of.
3. DOOR GABLE –One of.
4. ROOF VENT –Four of.
5. DOOR –Two of at 457mm wide.
6. Additional parts such as the ridge, roof bars, eaves ties etc. are put on “loose” and are not pre-constructed into an
independent frame.
SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
PROCEDURE
For the point of this plan we have used a 3.8m Model as an illustration.
From the main box you require: Pack of side bars marked “side bars”.
Pack of gutters, angles and cills marked “side”.
From the pack of fittings you need: Nuts and bolts + the Glazing beading.
You need for each frame: 1 gutter/eave, 1 cill, 2 diagonal angles and 5 side bars. Before assembling any of the side frame section
you will need to slide the required number of bolts into the glazing bars. (See drawing). Assemble the side frames as shown.

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1. Slide the glazing beading into each side bar taking care not to stretch the material. Trim off any surplus level with the ends of
the glazing bar.
2. Lay the 9 components on the floor as though you were standing inside the glasshouse i.e. with the gutter and cill facing
downwards and the bolt slot of the glazing bar upwards. (Key point)
3. Slide 3 bolts into each glazing bar, the middle bolt will be used later to attach the cantilever tee bars. Fix the combined eaves
and gutter bars to the glazing bars by pushing the bolt previously inserted through the holes in the lower flange of the eave
and secure with a nut. Ensure that the glazing bar is pushed up under the gutter and is tight up against the inside shoulder of
the eave. (Key Point). Do the same with the rest of the glazing bars.
4. Fix the cill in a similar way to 3 above but start with the middle glazing bars and work outwards.
5. The 2 outer glazing bars have the angle ties bolted to them. Before attaching the nuts, place the tie bar over the bolts so that
they point outwards towards the end of the eaves bar. They must be arranged so that the inside of the angle, in each case
faces towards the middle of the house.
N.B. there are 4 per side: the extra braces are centrally positioned (diagonally like the 2 end ones) for additional strength.
6. Ensure that the glazing bars are tight up against the cill and inside shoulder of the eave, tighten all nuts. The nuts and bolts
are aluminum and only require one turn with the spanner after first finger tip tightening. (Key Point).
7. Do exactly the same with the other side frame.
WELL DONE! YOU HAVE SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED THE 2 SIDE FRAMES!
IMPORTANT!!
Must be fitted
as shown in
picture.

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REAR WALL END ASSEMBLY
1. Starting with the pack of corner bars split the tape holding them together and first identifies the 2 roof bars from the 2 sidebars.
The sidebars have one hole and one mitre, both at one end. The other end has no hole and is square cut. The roof bars have 4
holes in the flange and are mitred at both ends and in addition have a letter “R” written at the apex on the outside of the bar. N.B.
If your greenhouse is a painted one, the roof corner bars will not be marked with a letter “R”. They can be identified from the
sidebars as outlined above. (Key Point)
The bars are also handed so you must identify the left and right hand. Standing up; hold one side bar vertically in your left hand;
the other in your right. Rotate the bars so that the 2 bolt slots are facing in towards you, with the mitres at the top (inside view).
Viewed this way the 2 mitres should run down to each other. The roof bars can be handed similarly, keeping the bolt slots facing
inwards and the letter “R” to the top. (With a painted model, the top can be identified by observing the 4 holes in the flange. The
two holes nearest the end are at 50mm and 33mm centres. The 50mm end is the top i.e. nearest the ridge) On the outside you
can identify them by ensuring that the “R”s (indicating ridge) are at the top, the mitres will then run into each other.
2. Slide the glazing beading into the 4 vertical glazing bars and the 4 corner bars, taking care not to stretch the material. Trim off
any surplus level with the end of the bars. N.B. The corner bars have 3 grooves to receive the glazing bead; do not put any in the
middle one. (Key point).
3. Lay out the components of the frame on the ground as though you were standing on the inside i.e. with the bolt slots uppermost.
Ensure that, having correctly identified the roof from the side corner bars, left and right hands (see previous text) you have the
roof bars with the letter “R” (indicating ridge) at the top on the outside, i.e. towards the ground. (Key Point)
4. Slide 2 bolts into each corner bar bolt slots (facing inwards) 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom. Put a nut on and lightly tighten,
leaving them approx. 50mm from the end of each bar. These will be used later in the general assembly.
5. Starting at the apex (2 corner bars opposite each other marked “R”) slide 1 bolt into the other bolt slot i.e. the one that is facing
upwards and is set at 90to the other –4 above. (Key Point)
For the construction of this frame you require from the main box:
1 pack of corner bars marked “corner bars”
1 rear end pack marked “rear end”
1 rear end cill marked “rear end”
1 rear end horizontal brace marked “rear end”.
From the pack of fittings you need:
nuts and bolts
glazing beading and gusset plates –1 large (ridge plate) and 2 small
(eave plates).
These plates are not in the pack of fittings but are taped up with the casement
stays elsewhere in the box.
GR = GLAZING RUBBER

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SHELF INSTALLATION
The next addition. The following diagram and text give details of its installation. The following diagram and text give details of its
installation
The shelf can be fitted to the rear end of the unit or to either side wall.
This is done by utilizing the previously inserted nuts and bolts in the glazing bar, wall bar and side corner bar.
1. Attach the fixing braces on to all bars using the lower of the unoccupied nuts and bolts at the desires height. (Ensure that all
braces are fixed at the same height.)
2. The shelf rests on the upper of the unoccupied bolts (nuts now not required), which is held in place using the fixing clamps as
seen in the diagram. Again, ensure that the fixing clamps are fixed at the same height.
3. The shelf is further supported by the insertion of the fixing brace in to the protruding lip of the underside of the shelf as seen on
the diagram.
4. Ensure that all nuts are tight. Do not over tighten.
5. Shelf installation is now complete.

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6. Place the Ridge gusset plate (larger of the 2 types) over the bolt, slide the plate left or right until the slotted hole in the plate
lines up with the locating hole in the flange nearest to the end of the corner bar. Put nuts on both bolts i.e. flange and plate,
fingertip tighten only. (Key point)
7. Do exactly the same with the other roof corner bar ensuring that the two bars are pressed tight up together behind the Ridge
gusset plate.
8. Now moving to the eave gusset assembly, slide one bolt into the other bolt slot (the one that is facing upwards and is at 90
to 4 above). Place the eave gusset plate (smaller of the 2 types) onto the bolt and move it left or right until the next hole in
the plate lines up with the locating hole in the top on the side corner bar. Place a bolt through the hole and put a nut on
fingertip tight only. (Key point). At this stage do not put a nut on the first bolt.
9. Do the same with the other part of the same eave gusset plate, ensuring that both corner bars are tight up against each
other behind the eave plate.
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 at the other corner with another eave gusset plate.
11. Attach the bottom cill, marked “rear end” in the box, to the left and right hand side corner bars by inserting a bolt into the
facing bolt slot. Line the bolts up with the 2 slotted holes at the end of the cill, put nuts on and tighten up ensuring that the
corner bars are pushing right down into the angle of the cill. (Key Point).
12. You can now attach the 4 vertical glazing bars to the bottom cill in a similar manner to 11 above, the two longer bars to the
middle holes, and the shorter ones to the outer holes. Before attaching the nuts to the longer bars place the diagonal angles
onto the bottom bolt and put a nut on fingertip tight only. Attach the other end of the angle brace to the bottom bolt of the
eave gusset plate, put on the nut and fingertip tighten. (Key Point). Do the same with the other diagonal brace.
13. Moving to the top of the greenhouse, insert 3 bolts into the shorter two glazing bars and 2 bolts into the longer two glazing
bars.
14. Now you can attach the long angle horizontal brace marked “rear end” in the box to the top bolts of the eave gusset plates.
The angle should be facing upwards, put the nuts on and fingertip tighten.
15. You can now attach the 4 vertical glazing bars to the roof/corner bars. Slide the last bolt in each bar you inserted in 13
above to the end of each bar and insert them through the holes in the flange of the roof corner bar, place the nuts on and
finger tip tighten.
16. Attach the diagonal angles to the 2 shorter glazing bars. Slide the second bolt previously inserted in 13 above to the middle
of the bare and line it up with the hole in the diagonal brace, put the nuts on finger tip tight. (Key Point)
17. Now attach the horizontal brace to the 4 upright glazing bars utilizing the final bolts you inserted in 13 above. Put the nuts
on finger tip tight. (Key Point).
18. The rear end is now almost complete. Before tightening all nuts check the corners to ensure they are tightly up against each
other and that all the vertical bars are tight up against the angle of the rear end cill and corner bars. Tighten all nuts, the rear
end if now complete

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DOUBLE DOOR END ASSEMBLY
For the construction of this frame you require from the box:
1 pack of corner bars –marked “corner bars”
1 door end pack –marked “door end”
From the main bag of fittings, you need: nuts and bolts, glazing beading and gusset plates –1 large (ridge plate), 2 small (eave
plates)
The door end contains the cill and main door track support.
The apex gusset plate has a 5th hole in to accommodate a short glazing bar above the door.
The horizontal and diagonal Angle braces are a little thicker and are made from unequal angle.
PROCEDURE
The format of the door end is identical to the rear end assembly up to and including step 13 so please refer to those items in the
previous pages.
1. For step 14. Slide 4 extra bolts into each vertical glazing bar.
2. The long horizontal brace is replaced by 2 shorter ones that attach to the upper bolt of the gusset plate but stop at the longer
middle bars to facilitate the doorway.
3. There are 2 additional short horizontal braces that attach to the 2 shorter vertical glazing bars at a point immediately above
where the diagonal angle bolts to the bar, then to the longer intermediate bars horizontally along which thus ensures the
doorway remains well braced and perpendicular.
4. The main door track support can now be fitted at a point half way between the horizontal angle and the corner bar. It is
important to note that the 2 slotted holes at the extremes of this section are facing upwards and not downwards. (Key
point). Do not fit the top door track or the short glazing bar above the door opening at this stage
5. Check that all joints are tight and all braces are in position, and then tighten up all nuts. The end is now complete.

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You have now completed the 4 main frames of the structure which can now be joined together. You need not do this procedure
on the base but any flat surface near the greenhouse site. If your base is prepared however, you can carry put the assembly
there to save lifting it on later. But before this we construct the vents and doors
You have now completed the main frames of the structure, which can now be joined together. You need not do this procedure on
the base but any flat surface near the glasshouse site. If your base is prepared however, you can carry out the assembly there to
save lifting it on later. But before this we construct the vents and doors.
ROOF VENT ASSEMBLY
The roof vent pack has 5 pieces of aluminium: and from the main box of fittings you require 6’ of glazing beading, 4 nuts and bolts, 2
casement stay pins, 1 casement stay and 6 M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts.
PROCEDURE:
1. Identify the slam bar and attach the 2 stay pins to the outer side of the angle using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts.
2. Lay the 4 edge pieces of the vent on a level surface as though you were on the inside of the vent (with the bolt slots of the
sidebars uppermost and the ‘v’ slots of the bottom rail uppermost. The top rail is arranged in such a way that the squared off
end is to the bottom and the hooked hinge uppermost).
3. Slide the glazing beading into the slots in the side and top rails and trim to suit.
4. Insert a bolt into each end of the side rail bolt slots, put these bolts through the holes in the top and bottom rails, add nuts
and lightly tighten. Check that all joints are secure and that the vent is square, and then tighten up the nuts.
5. Fit the casement stay using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts, putting the bolts through the holes in the saddle of the stay
and through the 2 elongated holes in the bottom rail. Hold the nuts in place and tighten the bolts with a screwdriver.
Do the same with the other vents.

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The vents can be positioned onto the ridge after general assembly by sliding them along the ridge from the end and locating them to
the desired position.
Do not fit the vent at this stage.

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DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
Components for each consist of:
2 door-glazing bars (1x handed, 1x unhanded)
3 infill panels
2 top & bottom door panels
From the main bag of fittings you require
2 door wheels
2 clip on nylon door skids
2 lengths of black rubber draught excluder
Self-tapping screws and spring washers
Glazing Beading
1. Place the two sidebars on a level surface roughly two feet apart with the bolt slots facing downwards. The top of each
sidepiece has two screw holes in it and the bottom has three. (Key Point)
2. Place the top, bottom and 3 infill panels in position as shown by the position of the screw holes in the sidepieces and the
panels. The top panel has the greenhouse name on it. The bottom panel has the edge for the door skids to fit on. The lower
infill panel locks on to the bottom panel.
3. Fix the door together by screwing through the door sidepieces into the holes provided in the edge of the panels with the No. 8
half-inch self-tapping screws. DO NOT fix the top left hand side screw yet. The screw will go in more easily and without
danger of trying to go crooked if you can put a small amount of grease on the screw before assembling the doors.
Alternatively, you could insert the screws into the screw eyes of the door panels before assembling the door; this would have
the effect of pre-self tapping the panels prior to assembly, making assembly easier.
4. Fix the top left hand side with the one-and-a-half inch screw provided. Put the screw through the door catch so that the
serrated part is facing outwards and upwards. Next slip two spring washers on to the screw, and then fix the screw through
the side of the door and into the top panel. (Key point).
5. Make sure all angles are square and tighten all screws.
6. Fix each door wheel into position by pushing the bolt provided through the centre of the wheel and then through the hole in the
top door panel from underneath (i.e. from the inside of the door) Put the washer over the bolt and secure with the nut provided,
tighten until there is not movement on the bolt. The nuts are lock nuts and are harder to put on than normal nuts in general
assembly. The wheel will revolve freely because it has ball bearings in it.
7. Slip the nylon door skids on each end of the bottom panel.

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DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY CONT
8. Turn the door over and insert the black rubber draught excluders in the groove (bolt slot) in each sidepiece of the door. Push up
to the top of the door and trim off surplus at the bottom. With pair of pliers squeeze the groove together at the bottom so that the
rubber will not slip down when the door is in its upright position.
9. Do not fit the door to the gable at this stage –wait until the structure is fully assembled prior to glazing.
DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY CONT

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If you have a double door option you will need to assemble 2 doors of 457mm width. The doors are assembled in the same way
as the single door with the exception of the doorposts that meet in the middle –these are handed.
Looking at the door posts in profile with the 2 holes at the top (3 holes at the bottom) the open box part of the section goes to the
outside
i.e.: on right hand door –left hand upright or on left hand door –right hand upright
The door catches are attached to the upper outer screws (left hand door –top left, right hand door –top right).
Having assembled both doors you need to attach a piece of alloy angle to the rear of one of the handed doorposts. Insert bolts
into the bolt slot of one of the handed doorposts, attach the angle and put on and tighten the nuts.
ASSEMBLY OF THE GREENHOUSE UNIT
PROCEDURE:
1. With the help of a willing assistant, stand up the rear gable and one of the sides. Standing on the inside of the structure with
the gutter facing away from you, insert the eave/gutter bar into the gap between the corner bars, so that the inside flanges
which form the angle of the roof and side line up with the bolt slots in the corner bars. (Key Point).
2. Undo the nuts holding the 2 bolts you inserted in the corner bars and slide them into the slotted holes in the flanges. Put a nut
on the top bolt, put the side diagonal brace on the bottom bolt and then the nut and tighten up.
Double door Catch
Insert glazing beading
entire length of inside of
each piece on both doors

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3. Now stand up the door end assembly (double or single door end are attached in the same way) and repeat the above
procedure.
4. Stand up the other side frame and repeat the operation outlined in 1 and 2 above at both corners.
5. The bottom cill of the sides attaches to the corner bars in a similar way. Undo the nuts and bolts inserted in the gable end
assembly, move the cill under the corner bar so that the elongated hole in the vertical flange of the side cill lines up with the
bolt slot in the corner bar. Move the bolts down the slot into the slotted hole, put a nut on and tighten up, ensuring that the
corner bar is pushed right down into the angle of the cill. Do the same at the other 3 bottom corners.

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6. The ridge bar is fitted next, but first you must thread the glazing beading into the 2 grooves on the ridge. (Key Point). Lift the
ridge bar up to the apex and standing on a pair of sturdy and safely placed stepladders push the ridge into the small gap
between the roof corners so that the 2 flanges which form the angle of roof are tight up against the inside edge of the corner
bars. The vertical part of the ridge is outside and pointing skywards. Undo the nuts and bolts previously inserted during gable
end assembly and push them upwards into the slotted holes of the ridge. Tighten the nuts.
7. The roof bars can now be attached to the structure but first you must slide the glazing beading into the bars and trim to suit.
(Key Point).
Attach the bars firstly at the ridge, sliding a bolt into the bolt slot of the roof bars and placing the bolt through the holes in the
flanges of the ridge. Put a nut on and immediately prior to tightening ensure that the roof bar is pushed up hard against the
ridge. Do not attach the bottom of the bars to the eave until all the roof bars are bolted to the ridge. (Key Point)
8. Now attach the bottom of the roof bars to the eave/gutter bar into the holes in the upper flange. Start with the middle bars
either side of the ridge. You will need to insert extra bolts into each bar that has a vent opening and a cantilever tee-bar
brace.
The 6.3m has 15 Large tee-bar braces –5 each side and 5 in the roof.
You must remember to insert one extra bolt per cantilever T-bar brace and one per vent per bar. In addition one extra bolt
would be needed on the bar next to the middle where you require the vent to go. If you have purchased a partition with your
greenhouse you will be 2 roof bars short of a full pack. Omit one each side of the ridge at the point where the partition is to be
situated i.e. at the same place where you omitted the side glazing bars.
Before tightening the nuts that hold the roof bar to the eave you must ensure that the roof bar is tight up against the small
flange immediately above the gutter. (Key point) Failure to observe this point and the previous one of keeping the roof bar
tight up to the ridge could result in a slight outward bow of the gutters and a slight downward dip of the ridge.

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9. At this point you will need to lift the structure onto a firm footing or the greenhouse base if you haven’t already done so.
10. There are 4 diagonal roof braces. You attach these to the point where the ridge bolts to the corner bars at the rear end. The
angle travels diagonally down to the first glazing bar at the eave/gutter. You fit one each side at the rear of the greenhouse.
11. You can now attach the T-bar cantilevers, which bolt to the sidebars and roof as indicated in point 8.
Before tightening these cantilevers up make sure there is no sag in the ridge or outward bow in the eave. (Key point) If you do
have this problem you must straighten it out before tightening the cantilevers up. A bow or sag can easily be removed with 2
people pushing the gutters towards each other until straight, hold it in position whilst a third person tightens up the cantilevers.
The main structure is now complete and it must be lifted onto its base for securing down.