Redpath Statesman Series User manual
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(IF SUPPLIED)
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PARTS LIST –FOR POLYCARBHOUSE SERIES
2.57m x 3.80m 2.57m x 5.04m
1. Ridge 1 1
2. Gutter/Eave 2 2
3. Side Cill 2 2
4. Side Angle 4 8
5. Door End Cill 1 1
6. Rear End Cill 1 1
7. Rear End Angle 1 1
8. Short Door End Glazing Bar 2 2
9. Long Door End Glazing Bar 2 2
10. Diagonal Angle 2 2
11. Short Horizontal Angle 2 2
12. Medium Horizontal Angle 2 2
13. Short Rear End Glazing Bar 2 2
14. Long Rear End Glazing Bar 2 2
15. Diagonal Angle 2 2
16. Corner Bars in 2 packs of 4 8 8
17. Roof Bars 10 14
18. Side Bars 10 14
19. Roof Diagonal Angle 2 4
20. Roof Vent Pack (made up of 2 side rails, 2 4
1 top rail, 1 bottom rail, 1 slam bar)
21. Door Panel Pack (made up of 1 top panel, 1 1
1 bottom panel, 3 intermediate panels,
1 Door track support)
The Double Door Panel Set does not have the door track support in it –it has double the amount of panels
22. Door Posts (In pairs) 1 1
N.B. Double Door has 2 pairs
23. Cantilevers T-Bar-Brace - Small 3 -
- Large 6 13
24. Bag of Fittings 1 1
25. Glazing Beading 400 500
26. Gusset Plates - Eave 4 4
- Ridge 2 2
27. Casement Stays 2 4
28. Top Door Track 1 1
29. Polycarbonate sheeting (see last page of instructions) included cut to length
30. 20mm square aluminium strongbacks + tape included (tape not fitted)
31. Aluminium tape to seal the top edges of the polycarbonate included (not fitted)
The polycarbonate is supplied in pre-cut lengths. The aluminium sealing tape (supplied) will need to be
applied to the top edge of each sheet as you fit them. The aluminium strongbacks, will also need to be
applied in locations shown to prevent polycarbonate ‘bend’ and give superior wind resistance (add a 75mm
piece of the double sides tape to each end of the 20mm square aluminium strongbacks)
Tapes together
And marked “side”
Taped together and
marked “Door End”
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REDPATH POLYCARBONATE GREENHOUSE BASE DIMENSIONS
(Materials not supplied)
Base material may be: Timber, Brick, Block, or Concrete
(Dimensions shown are to the exterior edges)
The dimensions given below are for the base & ground anchoring system of your Polycarb house. You will need to supply the
materials & construct these using Concrete, Brick or Timber. Ensure that dimensions A & B are not exceeded! - As these are
precise outside measurements enabling the aluminum base cill of the Polycarbhouse (supplied) to overhang the edges of your
base. Also ensure that the base is square by measuring across the corners (C) in both directions. Only when this measurement is
equal is the base square!
Check the level using a builder’s spirit level –in directions (A), (B) & (C) The building & its Polycarbonate cladding relies on the
buildings base being level in all directions. The height of the base is typically up to 150mm above ground level, with a portion of
the base being below ground level. If using Timber for the base, the base will need to be secured to the ground with pegs spaced
at a width & depth to suit your chosen sites wind exposure & ground conditions.
MODEL: Nominal frame size
A(actual base size width)
B(actual base size length)
C(actual diagonal –check)
Statesman 2.43m x 3.65m
2570mm
3804mm
4591mm
Statesman 2.43m x 4.87m
2570mm
5040mm
5657mm
Note: Please check with your local council whether a building permit is required for
your Polycarbhouse before construction commences
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HELPFUL HINTS & ADVICE
Please take your time and be sure to read all instructions carefully before assembling. The Polycarbhouse structure does often
require at minimum an “experienced DIY” type person or a semi-skilled builder to assemble.
Locate the Polycarbhouse in a sheltered or semi-sheltered position. PolyCarb is a fragile product and strong winds, or flying
debris could potentially damage the PolyCarb sheeting. Secure the roof vents in a closed position, close doors & windows if very
windy. A shelter belt should be considered to protect the Polycarbhouse and plants within in windy locations.
Do not assemble the frame or attempt to glaze in windy, or damp conditions
The Polycarbhouse frame must be anchored to a permanent foundation / base. This will not only help secure it against strong
winds, but will help prevent breakage of the PolyCarb via ground movement. Materials for the base are optional & are not
supplied as part of this kitset.
When building your own timber/brick/concrete foundations/base ensure that they are level and square and built to the correct
outside measurements otherwise your frame will not be correct and the PolyCarb will not fit.
Be sure all four corners of the constructed Polycarbhouse are square before installing any PolyCarb, and do not install the
PolyCarb until the Polycarbhouse is secured onto a permanent foundation/base.
Do not place your Polycarbhouse in vulnerable locations such as under trees, near children’s playing areas, upon loose soils, in
an open exposed place with open field or distant views.
Be careful when using agricultural chemicals such as fertilizers, fungicides and insecticides etc. in the Polycarbhouse. Do not use
chemicals that are for outside use only. Always read the labels very carefully.
Do not push or lean on the PolyCarb panels. Do not lean weighty objects onto the PolyCarb. Use extra care when moving heavy
or awkward objects such as tables, poles, internal frames etc. within or near the Polycarbhouse.
Do not latch the door when anybody is inside the Polycarbhouse. Do not occupy the Polycarbhouse in times of high wind or
poor weather (hail etc)
Be aware of the increased temperature in the Polycarbhouse on a sunny day & allow for shading, or extra ventilation for these
higher temperatures.
Do not keep pets or other animals in the Polycarbhouse & try to prevent their entry.
When cleaning PolyCarb, do not exert too much pressure onto the PolyCarb.
Remember to fit the silver aluminium tape to the top edges of the polycarbonate sheeting before fitting them to the
greenhouse
Fit the 20mm square strongbacks (include a 75mm piece of the 20mm x 3mm white double sided tape at each end) after
installing the polycarbonate sheeting.
DETAILED ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
The contents of this carton are divided into the different frame assemblies that collectively make up the complete unit.
It is recommended that each frame assembly is fully completed before moving on to the next.
The frames to be constructed are as follows:
1. SIDE FRAME –Two off.
2. REAR GABLE –One off.
3. DOOR GABLE –One off.
4. ROOF VENT –Two for 2.57m x 3.80m and four for 2.57m x 5.04m.
5. DOOR –One off
6. CLADDING –All, including 20mm square aluminium ‘strongbacks’. Fit the aluminium foil tape to the top edges of each
sheet of polycarbonate before installing
7. Additional parts such as the ridge, roof bars, eaves ties etc. are put on “loose” and are not pre-constructed into an
independent frame.
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SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
PROCEDURE
For the point of this plan we have used a standard 2.57m wide x 3.80m Length as an illustration. Other models will have
different final dimensions or views, but use the same process for assembly.
From the main box you require: Pack of side bars marked “side bars”.
Pack of gutters, angles and cills marked “side”.
From the pack of fittings you need: Nuts and bolts + the Glazing beading.
You need for each frame: 1 gutter/eave, 1 cill, 2 diagonal angles and 5 side bars. Before assembling any of the side frame
section you will need to slide the required number of bolts into the glazing bars. (See drawing). Assemble the side frames as
shown.
1. Slide the glazing beading into each side bar taking care not to stretch the material. Trim off any surplus level with the ends
of the glazing bar.
2. Lay the 9 components on the floor as though you were standing inside the Polycarbhouse i.e. with the gutter and cill facing
downwards and the bolt slot of the glazing bar upwards. (Key point)
3. Slide 3 bolts into each glazing bar, the middle bolt will be used later to attach the cantilever tee bars. Fix the combined
eaves and gutter bars to the glazing bars by pushing the bolt previously inserted through the holes in the lower flange of the
eave and secure with a nut. Ensure that the glazing bar is pushed up under the gutter and is tight up against the inside
shoulder of the eave. (Key Point). Do the same with the rest of the glazing bars.
4. Fix the cill in a similar way to 3 above but start with the middle glazing bars and work outwards.
5. The 2 outer glazing bars have the angle ties bolted to them. Before attaching the nuts, place the tie bar over the bolts so
that they point outwards towards the end of the eaves bar. They must be arranged so that the inside of the angle, in each
case faces towards the middle of the house.
N.B. for the 3.804m model there are 2 angle ties per side, for the 5.040m there are 4 per side: the extra braces are centrally
positioned (diagonally like the 2 end ones) for additional strength.
6. Ensure that the glazing bars are tight up against the cill and inside shoulder of the eave, tighten all nuts. The nuts and bolts
are aluminum and only require one turn with the spanner after first finger tip tightening. (Key Point).
7. Do exactly the same with the other side frame.
WELL DONE! YOU HAVE SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED THE 2 SIDE FRAMES!
IMPORTANT!!
Must be fitted
as shown in
picture.
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REAR WALL END ASSEMBLY
1. Starting with the pack of corner bars split the tape holding them together and first identifies the 2 roof bars from the 2
sidebars. The sidebars have one hole and one mitre, both at one end. The other end has no hole and is square cut. The roof
bars have 4 holes in the flange and are mitred at both ends and in addition have a letter “R” written at the apex on the outside
of the bar.
The bars are also handed so you must identify the left and right hand. Standing up, hold one side bar vertically in your left
hand, the other in your right. Rotate the bars so that the 2 bolt slots are facing in towards you, with the mitres at the top
(inside view). Viewed this way the 2 mitres should run down to each other. The roof bars can be handed similarly, keeping the
bolt slots facing inwards and the letter “R” to the top. (With a painted model, the top can be identified by observing the 4
holes in the flange. The two holes nearest the end are at 50mm and 33mm centres. The 50mm end is the top i.e. nearest the
ridge) On the outside you can identify them by ensuring that the “R”s (indicating ridge) are at the top, the mitres will then run
into each other.
2. Slide the glazing beading into the 4 vertical glazing bars and the 4 corner bars, taking care not to stretch the material. Trim off
any surplus level with the end of the bars. N.B. The corner bars have 3 grooves to receive the glazing bead; do not put any in
the middle one. (Key point).
3. Lay out the components of the frame on the ground as though you were standing on the inside i.e. with the bolt slots
uppermost. Ensure that, having correctly identified the roof from the side corner bars, left and right hands (see previous text)
you have the roof bars with the letter “R” (indicating ridge) at the top on the outside, i.e. towards the ground. (Key Point)
4. Slide 2 bolts into each corner bar bolt slots (facing inwards) 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom. Put a nut on and lightly tighten,
leaving them approx. 2” from the end of each bar. These will be used later in the general assembly.
5. Starting at the apex (2 corner bars opposite each other marked “R”) slide 1 bolt into the other bolt slot i.e. the one that is facing
upwards and is set at 90to the other –4 above. (Key Point)
For the construction of this frame you require from the main box:
1 pack of corner bars marked “corner bars”
1 rear end pack marked “rear end”
1 rear end cill marked “rear end”
1 rear end horizontal brace marked “rear end”.
From the pack of fittings you need:
nuts and bolts
Glazing beading and gusset plates –1 large (ridge plate) and 2
small (eave plates).
These plates are not in the pack of fittings but are taped up with the
casement stays elsewhere in the box.
9
G
R
GR = GLAZING RUBBER
GR
GR
GR
GR
GR
GR
NO Glazing
Bead
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6. Place the Ridge gusset plate (larger of the 2 types) over the bolt, slide the plate left or right until the slotted hole in the plate
lines up with the locating hole in the flange nearest to the end of the corner bar. Put nuts on both bolts i.e. flange and plate,
fingertip tighten only. (Key point)
7. Do exactly the same with the other roof corner bar ensuring that the two bars are pressed tight up together behind the Ridge
gusset plate.
8. Now moving to the eave gusset assembly, slide one bolt into the other bolt slot (the one that is facing upwards and is at 90to
4 above). Place the eave gusset plate (smaller of the 2 types) onto the bolt and move it left or right until the next hole in the
plate lines up with the locating hole in the top on the side corner bar. Place a bolt through the hole and put a nut on fingertip
tight only. (Key point). At this stage do not put a nut on the first bolt.
9. Do the same with the other part of the same eave gusset plate, ensuring that both corner bars are tight up against each other
behind the eave plate.
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 at the other corner with another eave gusset plate.
11. Attach the bottom cill, marked “rear end” in the box, to the left and right hand side corner bars by inserting a bolt into the
facing bolt slot. Line the bolts up with the 2 slotted holes at the end of the cill, put nuts on and tighten up ensuring that the
corner bars are pushing right down into the angle of the cill. (Key Point).
12. You can now attach the 4 vertical glazing bars to the bottom cill in a similar manner to 11 above, the two longer bars to the
middle holes, and the shorter ones to the outer holes. Before attaching the nuts to the longer bars place the diagonal angles
onto the bottom bolt and put a nut on fingertip tight only. Attach the other end of the angle brace to the bottom bolt of the
eave gusset plate, put on the nut and finger tip tighten. (Key Point). Do the same with the other diagonal brace.
13. Moving to the top of the greenhouse, insert 3 bolts into the shorter two glazing bars and 2 bolts into the longer two glazing
bars.
14. Now you can attach the long angle horizontal brace marked “rear end” in the box to the top bolts of the eave gusset plates.
The angle should be facing upwards, put the nuts on and fingertip tighten.
15. You can now attach the 4 vertical glazing bars to the roof/corner bars. Slide the last bolt in each bar you inserted in 13 above
to the end of each bar and insert them through the holes in the flange of the roof corner bar, place the nuts on and finger tip
tighten.
16. Attach the diagonal angles to the 2 shorter glazing bars. Slide the second bolt previously inserted in 13 above to the middle of
the bare and line it up with the hole in the diagonal brace, put the nuts on finger tip tight. (Key Point)
17. Now attach the horizontal brace to the 4 upright glazing bars utilizing the final bolts you inserted in 13 above. Put the nuts on
finger tip tight. (Key Point).
18. The rear end is now almost complete. Before tightening all nuts check the corners to ensure they are tightly up against each
other and that all the vertical bars are tight up against the angle of the rear end cill and corner bars. Tighten all nuts, the rear
end if now complete
Detail of Eave Assembly
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SINGLE DOOR END ASSEMBLY
For the construction of this frame you require from the box:
1 Pack of Corner Bars –marked “corner bars”.
1 Door End Pack –marked “door end”. 1 door end cill – marked “door end”
1 Main door Track Support –this section is taped up with the door panels, not with the door end. (Key point).
From the main bag of fittings you need:
Nuts & bolts, glazing beading and gusset plates –1 large (ridge plate) 2 small (eave plates). Remember, these plates are not in
the pack of fittings but are taped together with the casement stays elsewhere in the box!
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SINGLE DOOR ASSEMBLY CONT.
PROCEDURE: The format for the single door end is identical to the rear end assembly up to and including step 12 so please refer to
those items in the previous pages.
1. For step 13. Slide 4 extra bolts into each vertical glazing bar.
2. The long horizontal brace is replaced by 2 shorter ones that attach to the upper bolt of the gusset plate but stop at the longer
middle bars to facilitate the doorway.
3. There are 2 additional short Horizontal braces that attach to the 2 shorter vertical glazing bars at a point immediately above
where the diagonal angle bolts to the bar, then to the longer middle bars horizontally along which thus ensures the doorway
remains well braced and perpendicular.
4. The main door track support (taped up with the door panels) can now be fitted at a point half way between the horizontal
angle and the corner bar. It is important to note that the 2 slotted holes at the extremes of this section are facing upwards and
not downwards. (Key point). Do not fit the top door track at this stage.
5. Check that all joints are tight and all braces are in position, and then tighten up all the nuts. The end is now complete.
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DOUBLE DOOR END
If you have purchased a double door for your greenhouse the procedure for construction of the gable is identical to the single
door model. There are, however, a small number of differences outlined as follows:
There are only 2 packs of aluminium - double door corner bars
- Double door end
The door end contains the cill and main door track support (which are separate on the single door model).
The apex gusset plate has a 5th hole in to accommodate a short glazing bar above the door.
The horizontal and diagonal Angle braces are a little thicker and are made from unequal angle.
PROCEDURE:
1. Follow the text and drawing on the previous pages as the construction is the same apart from some bars being shorter,
longer and thicker.
2. Having fitted the main door track support in a similar way to the single one, you must not fit the short glazing bar that goes
above it at this stage. (Key point). This will be fitted later when the doors have been installed (see later text).
Do not fit the top door track at this stage.
You have now completed the main frames of the structure, which can now be joined together. You need not do this procedure
on the base but any flat surface near the Polycarbhouse site. If your base is prepared however, you can carry out the assembly
there to save lifting it on later. But before this we construct the vents and doors.
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ROOF VENT ASSEMBLY
The roof vent pack has 5 pieces of aluminium: and from the main box of fittings you require 6’ of glazing beading, 4 nuts and bolts,
2 casement stay pins, 1 casement stay and 6 M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts.
PROCEDURE:
1. Identify the slam bar and attach the 2 stay pins to the outer side of the angle using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts.
2. Lay the 4 edge pieces of the vent on a level surface as though you were on the inside of the vent (with the bolt slots of the
sidebars uppermost and the ‘v’ slots of the bottom rail uppermost. The top rail is arranged in such a way that the squared off
end is to the bottom and the hooked hinge uppermost).
3. Slide the glazing beading into the slots in the side and top rails and trim to suit.
4. Insert a bolt into each end of the side rail bolt slots, put these bolts through the holes in the top and bottom rails, add nuts and
lightly tighten. Check that all joints are secure and that the vent is square, and then tighten up the nuts.
5. Fit the casement stay using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts, putting the bolts through the holes in the saddle of the stay
and through the 2 elongated holes in the bottom rail. Hold the nuts in place and tighten the bolts with a screwdriver.
Do the same with the other vents.
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The vents can be positioned onto the ridge after general assembly by sliding them along the ridge from the end and locating
them to the desired position.
Do not fit the vent at this stage.
DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
Components consist of:
2 door-glazing bars
2 infill panels
2 top & bottom door panels
From the main bag of fittings you require
2 door wheels
2 clip on nylon door skids
2’ lengths of black rubber draught excluder
Door catches, self-tapping screws and spring washers
12’ Glazing Beading
1. Place the two sidebars on a level surface roughly two feet apart with the bolt slots facing downwards. The top of each
sidepiece has two screw holes in it and the bottom has three. (Key Point)
2. Place the top, bottom and 3 infill panels in position as shown by the position of the screw holes in the sidepieces and the
panels. The top panel has the greenhouse name on it. The bottom panel has the edge for the door skids to fit on. The
lower infill panel locks on to the bottom panel. (The flat part of the panels face uppermost).
3. Fix the door together by screwing through the door sidepieces into the holes provided in the edge of the panels with the
No. 8 half-inch self-tapping screws. DO NOT fix the top left hand side screw yet. The screw will go in more easily and
without danger of trying to go crooked if you can put a small amount of grease on the screw before assembling the doors.
Alternatively, you could insert the screws into the screw eyes of the door panels before assembling the door; this would
have the effect of pre-self tapping the panels prior to assembly, making assembly easier.
4. Fix the top left hand side with the one-and-a-half inch screw provided. Put the screw through the door catch so that the
serrated part is facing outwards and upwards. Next slip two spring washers on to the screw, and then fix the screw through
the side of the door and into the top panel. (Key point).
5. Make sure all angles are square and tighten all screws.
6. Fix each door wheel into position by pushing the bolt provided through the centre of the wheel and then through the hole
in the top door panel from underneath (i.e. from the inside of the door) Put the washer over the bolt and secure with the
nut provided, tighten until there is not movement on the bolt. The nuts are lock nuts and are harder to put on than normal
nuts in general assembly. The wheel will revolve freely because it has ball bearings in it.
7. Slip the nylon door skids on each end of the bottom panel.
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DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY CONT
8. Turn the door over and insert the black rubber draught excluders in the groove (bolt slot) in each sidepiece of the door. Push
up to the top of the door and trim off surplus at the bottom. With pair of pliers squeeze the groove together at the bottom so
that the rubber will not slip down when the door is in its upright position.
9. Do not fit the door to the gable at this stage –wait until the structure is fully assembled prior to glazing.
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DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY CONT
If you have a double door option you will need to assemble 2 doors of 457mm width. The doors are assembled in the same
way as the single door with the exception of the doorposts that meet in the middle –these are handed.
Looking at the door posts in profile with the 2 holes at the top (3 holes at the bottom) the open box part of the section goes to
the outside i.e. on right hand door –left hand upright
On left hand door –right hand upright
The door catches are attached to the upper outer screws (left hand door –top left, right hand door –top right).
Having assembled both doors you need to attach a piece of alloy angle to the rear of one of the handed doorposts. Insert bolts
into the bolt slot of one of the handed doorposts, attach the angle and put on and tighten the nuts.
ASSEMBLY OF THE GREENHOUSE UNIT
PROCEDURE:
1. With the help of a willing assistant, stand up the rear gable and one of the sides. Standing on the inside of the structure
with the gutter facing away from you, insert the eave/gutter bar into the gap between the corner bars, so that the inside
flanges which form the angle of the roof and side line up with the bolt slots in the corner bars. (Key Point).
2. Undo the nuts holding the 2 bolts you inserted in the corner bars and slide them into the slotted holes in the flanges. Put a
nut on the top bolt, put the side diagonal brace on the bottom bolt and then the nut and tighten up.
Double door Catch
Insert glazing beading
entire length of inside of
each piece on both doors
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19
3. Now stand up the door end assembly (double or single door end are attached in the same way) and repeat the above
procedure.
4. Stand up the other side frame and repeat the operation outlined in 1 and 2 above at both corners.
5. The bottom cill of the sides attaches to the corner bars in a similar way. Undo the nuts and bolts inserted in the gable end
assembly, move the cill under the corner bar so that the elongated hole in the vertical flange of the side cill lines up with the
bolt slot in the corner bar. Move the bolts down the slot into the slotted hole, put a nut on and tighten up, ensuring that
the corner bar is pushed right down into the angle of the cill. Do the same at the other 3 bottom corners.
6. The ridge bar is fitted next, but first you must thread the glazing beading into the 2 grooves on the ridge. (Key Point). Lift
the ridge bar up to the apex and standing on a pair of sturdy and safely placed stepladders push the ridge into the small gap
between the roof corners so that the 2 flanges which form the angle of roof are tight up against the inside edge of the
corner bars. The vertical part of the ridge is outside and pointing skywards. Undo the nuts and bolts previously inserted
during gable end assembly and push them upwards into the slotted holes of the ridge. Tighten the nuts.
7. The roof bars can now be attached to the structure but first you must slide the glazing beading into the bars and trim to
suit. (Key Point).
Attach the bars firstly at the ridge, sliding a bolt into the bolt slot of the roof bars and placing the bolt through the holes in
the flanges of the ridge. Put a nut on and immediately prior to tightening ensure that the roof bar is pushed up hard against
the ridge. Do not attach the bottom of the bars to the eave until all the roof bars are bolted to the ridge. (Key Point)
8. Now attach the bottom of the roof bars to the eave/gutter bar into the holes in the upper flange. Start with the middle bars
either side of the ridge. You will need to insert extra bolts into each bar that has a vent opening and a cantilever tee-bar
brace.
The 2.43m x 3.80m has 3 small tee-bar braces –3 in the roof & 6 large tee-bar braces –3 each side.
The 2.43m x 5.04m has 13 large tee-bar braces –5 each side and 3 in the roof.
You must remember to insert one extra bolt per cantilever T-bar brace and one per vent per bar. In addition one extra bolt
would be needed on the bar next to the middle where you require the vent to go. If you have purchased a partition with
your greenhouse you will be 2 roof bars short of a full pack. Omit one each side of the ridge at the point where the
partition is to be situated i.e. at the same place where you omitted the side glazing bars.
Hint: Wetting the neoprene
beading or the frame
with soapy water eases
its installation
20
Before tightening the nuts that hold the roof bar to the eave you must ensure that the roof bar is tight up against the small flange
immediately above the gutter. (Key point) Failure to observe this point and the previous one of keeping the roof bar tight up to
the ridge could result in a slight outward bow of the gutters and a slight downward dip of the ridge.
9. At this point you will need to lift the structure onto a firm footing or the greenhouse base if you haven’t already done so.
10. On the 3.80m model there are 2 roof diagonal braces. On the 5.04m model there are 4. You attach these to the point where
the ridge bolts to the corner bars at the rear end. The angle travels diagonally down to the first glazing bar at the eave/gutter.
You fit one each side at the rear of the greenhouse. If you have the longer house you put another 2 at the front end.
11. You can now attach the T-bar cantilevers, which bolt to the sidebars and roof as indicated in point 8.
Before tightening these cantilevers up make sure there is no sag in the ridge or outward bow in the eave. (Key point) If you do
have this problem you must straighten it out before tightening the cantilevers up. A bow or sag can easily be removed with 2
people pushing the gutters towards each other until straight, hold it in position whilst a third person tightens up the
cantilevers.
The main structure is now complete and it must be lifted onto its base for securing down.
This manual suits for next models
2
Other Redpath Greenhouse Kit manuals
