Rekluse EXP Operation manual

©2014 RekluseMotorSports
RekluseMotorSports, Inc.
12000W FranklinRd
Boise,Idaho83709
208-426-0659
[e-mail]
REKLUSE MOTOR SPORTS
TheRekluseCoreEXPKitwithAdjustableSlaveCylinder
INSTALLATION &
USER’S GUIDE
Doc ID: 191-7704A
Doc Rev: 040919
OVERVIEW
•This kit replaces the OEM core clutch components including the center clutch hub and pressure
plate with high-quality billet components designed for optimal operation specific to your bike.
•All 8 OEM friction disks will be reused, but all OEM steel drive plates will be replaced with
Rekluse TEC drive plates. Also, only 6 of the 12 OEM drive pins will be reinstalled.

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INSIDE THIS DOCUMENT
oINSTALLATION
oSETTING THE INSTALLED GAP
oCHECKING FREE PLAY GAIN
oBREAK-IN
oMAINTENANCE
oEXP TUNING OPTIONS & ENGAGEMENT SETTINGS
oSLAVE CYLINDER APPENDIX
oTROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
INSTALLATION TIPS
•Watch the “CORE EXP Auto-Clutch Installation Video”by following this QR
code or visiting rekluse.com/videos.
•Read this entire document before performing any steps, so you will know what to expect.
•Be sure to use proper eye protection.
•Laying the bike on its left side makes clutch work easier and eliminates the need to drain the oil.
•An air or electric impact wrench works well to remove the center clutch nut, or you can place the
bike in top gear and hold the rear brake while loosening the center clutch nut with a socket.
•Channel-lock pliers work best to bend the tabs of the washer up over the center clutch nut.
•For optimal clutch performance Rekluse recommends using fresh, clean oil that meets JASO-
MA oil rating requirements. Rekluse offers Factory Formulated Oil™ developed specifically for
Rekluse products. Rekluse Factory Formulated Oil is a perfect complement to any OEM or
aftermarket wet clutch. Visit www.rekluse.com to learn more.
•Bikes with taller gearing or modified engines with increased horsepower may require heavier
wedges and/or stiffer pressure plate springs which can be purchased separately from Rekluse.
TOOLS NEEDED
•8mm socket
•27mm socket (most models)
•8mm & 12mm end wrenches
•4mm & 5mm Allen keys
•Torque wrench (in-lb & ft-lb, or N-m)
•Channel-lock pliers
•Hydraulic clutch fluid

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INCLUDED PARTS
Item
Item Type
Qty
5
Pressure Plate
1
13
EXP Base *
2
16
Steel Lining Plate
1
23
Clutch Cover
1
27
Center Clutch Hub
1
31
Screw Sleeve
6
47
Fastener –M6 Pressure Plate Bolt
6
51
Fastener - 1/4-Turn Pin *
6
54
Orange Free Play Gain Rubber Band
1
60
Pressure Plate Spring
6
60.X
EXP Adjustment Spring * (extra springs are included, see last page for EXP tuning options)
6
63
Steel Drive Plate (TEC Plate)
9
85
Wedge Assembly *
6
86
Adjustable Slave Cylinder Assembly (bleed syringe included)
1
88
Pressure Plate Bolt &Spring Assembly
1
* Denotes parts assembled as part of EXP disk assembly
Visit Rekluse.com/support for a full parts fiche illustration and part numbers.

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BIKE PREP &
DISASSEMBLY
1. Lay the bike on its left side. Catch any fuel that
might drain in a suitable container. Remove the
clutch cover.
2. Remove the OEM clutch parts named in the
following diagram down to the center hub.
Leave the thrust washer installed in the basket.
Tip:
a. Use a hammer and large screw driver to
bend down the tabs of the tab washer.
3. Separate the OEM clutch pack.
Inspect the friction disks for signs of heat or
wear. Replace if they are burnt or worn.
4. Soak the EXP disk in engine oil for 5 minutes.

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HUB & CLUTCH PACK
INSTALLATION
5. Install the Rekluse Center Clutch Hub, making
sure the OEM thrust washer is in place.
6. Torque the nut to OEM specification, and bend
up both tabs of the tab washer using channel-
lock pliers.
7. Seat 6 of the OEM drive pins into the hub.
8. Install the first TEC drive plate in the orientation
shown (all drive plates will follow this
orientation).
NOTE: Proper orientation of the drive plates is
critical for optimal clutch performance. If you install
them backwards, the clutch will still function but will
lack proper modulation performance.

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9. Install the rest of the clutch pack, noting the
number and order of plates shown.
10. Reinstall the OEM throwout.
PRESSURE PLATE
INSTALLATION
11. Place the Steel Lining Plate [#16] onto the
Rekluse Pressure Plate [#5]. Adding an oil film
between them will help them stick together.
12. Install this pressure plate subassembly.
13. Install the Rekluse pressure plate springs and
torque the pressure plate bolts.
Do not reuse the OEM springs!
14. Install the Rekluse clutch cover, torqueing the
cover bolts to OEM specification.

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SLAVE CYLINDER
INSTALLATION
Handle with care! During assembly there is a small
ball bearing [#56] installed in the slave piston
[#28.3] with a small amount of grease. When
installing the Rekluse slave cylinder, make sure the
ball does not come loose.
NOTE: If you are installing this product on a KTM
Freeride, please reference the included Slave
Cylinder Appendix sheet for fitment instructions.
15. Stand the bike up and lean it on its kickstand or
place it on a suitable bike stand.
16. Starting at the slave cylinder, remove the OEM
parts named in the following diagram beginning
with the banjo bolt.
17. On a workbench (still away from the engine),
bleed the Rekluse slave cylinder by this
procedure:
a. Use a 4mm Allen key to make the top O-
Ring [#53.1] visible on the adjuster screw
[#28.2].
b. Compress the piston [#28.3] until it bottoms.
c. Pour clutch fluid into the slave cylinder port.
WARNING
Be sure to use the correct clutch fluid! Check the
cap of the clutch master cylinder to determine
which clutch fluid to use. Failure to use the correct
fluid will result in seal damage and/or failure.
d. Turn the adjuster screw clockwise until it
bottoms, keeping the fluid topped off.

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e. Turn the adjuster screw back to the initial
position with the top O-ring visible.
f. Compress the piston until it bottoms out.
Repeat the process until there is no longer
air escaping from the top port when the
piston is compressed.
NOTE: When compressing the piston, fluid
can shoot out from the slave cylinder port. Be
sure to wear eye protection.
18. Check that the ball bearing [#56] is still in place.
19. Install the Rekluse slave cylinder on the bike
using these parts, ending with the banjo bolt.
NOTE: Some models have a paper gasket
and/or O-ring seal. Reuse them if OEM
equipped.
NOTE: Some models have a piston
diaphragm seal. DO NOT REUSE them if
OEM equipped.

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20. Optional: If you purchased the Rekluse Slave
Guard accessory, install it now using the
instructions in the kit.
21. Remove the cap and bladder from the clutch
master cylinder and top off the clutch fluid.
22. Attach the supplied bleed tube to the banjo bolt
port and loop it into a suitable catch bottle.
23. Pump the clutch lever 3-5 times then hold it
against the bar/grip.
24. Using an 8mm wrench, open the bleed port. Air
and fluid should come out of the bleed tube.
Tighten the bleed port.
25. Slowly release the clutch lever and check the
fluid level in the clutch master cylinder.

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26. Repeat the previous 3 bleeding steps until air
no longer comes out of the bleed port. Then,
check that the clutch lever functions properly.
Repeat the bleeding procedure if necessary.
27. Finally, remove the bleed tube.
INSTALLED GAP SETTING
DEFINITION: “Installed Gap” is the separation in
the clutch pack created by the adjustment of the
Adjuster Screw in the Slave Cylinder. This gap is
what allows the clutch to spin freely until the
desired RPM is reached for engagement; it must be
set correctly for optimal performance.
28. Using the long end of a 4mm Allen key, turn the
adjuster screw clockwise until it stops under
moderate pressure. You are trying to feel for
the point at which the throwout will start to lift
the pressure plate. This is the “starting point”.
NOTE: It may take a few tries to find the point
at which the system is bottomed out. You
should feel a distinguishable change in turning
effort at this point.
29. Once you have found the starting point, turn the
adjuster clockwise 1 full turn plus 5 marks
(or “1+5”). This is NOT your final setting, but
it is a good reference point for using free play
gain to find the correct setting.
30. Top off the master cylinder with clutch fluid and
reinstall the OEM cap and bladder.
CHECKING
FREE PLAY GAIN
WARNING
Always make sure that the bike is in NEUTRAL before
checking Free Play Gain. Failure to do so may result in
the bike lurching forward, and loss of control and/or
injury may result.
NOTE: Before performing this step,
please visit our website at
rekluse.com/support to view the
TECH VIDEO entitled “How to Check
Free Play Gain”.
“Lever Free Play”is essentially the “slack” in the
clutch lever before it starts actuating the clutch.

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Applying a light finger pressure will take up this
slack.
“Free Play Gain” is the increase of lever free play
as the auto-clutch engages. This happens when
the RPM increase from idle through around 5000
RPM. Free Play Gain is caused by the expansion of
the EXP disk which lifts the pressure plate away
from the throwout assembly.
Optimal Free Play Gain yields 1/8” (3mm) of clutch
lever movement, measured at the end of the lever.
This measurement at the lever correlates to
achieving the ideal installed gap.
The following steps explain two ways to check Free
Play Gain. One will use the rubber band that has
been included in the clutch kit and one explains
using your hand, which you will perform before
every ride.
Place the bike in neutral, start the engine and let it
warm up for 2-3 minutes.
Rubber Band Method:
It is recommended that you use this method first
to find your Free Play Gain so you can see what
it is. Then, check it by hand as well so that you
can effectively and comfortably check free play
gain every time you ride.
Wrap the included rubber band around the outer
end of the handlebar grip and attach it to the ball
end of the clutch lever.
With the bike at idle in neutral, quickly blip (rev)
the engine to at least 5,000 RPM and let it
return to idle. The clutch lever should move
in about 1/8” (3mm) toward the handlebar as
you rev the engine.

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Note: If you are not getting the correct lever
movement, see the “Free Play Gain
Troubleshooting Guide” on the next page.
Hand Method:
Free play gain should also be checked using
your hand, as you will check it by hand before
every ride. With the bike at idle, apply enough
pressure to the lever to take up the initial
freeplay (slack) shown in the photos on the
previous page. While continuing to apply light
pressure, rev the engine to at least 5,000 RPM.
The clutch lever should move in 1/8” (3mm)
under your finger pressure as you rev the
engine and the auto-clutch engages.
BREAK –IN
Follow these procedures for a new installation and
any time new friction disks or EXP bases or wedges
are installed.
1. Rev cycles: Warm up the bike for 2-3 minutes.
With the bike in neutral and your hand off of the
clutch lever, rev the engine 10 times, being sure
to let it return to idle between each rev cycle.
2. With the engine running, pull in the clutch lever
and click the bike into gear. Slowly release the
clutch lever. The bike should stay in place,
perhaps with a slight amount of forward creep.
3. Now that the bike is idling in first gear, slowly
apply throttle to begin moving. To break in the
clutch components, perform the following roll-on
starts in 1st and 2nd gear without using the
clutch lever: In 1st gear, accelerate moderately
to approximately 5,000 RPMs and come to a
stop—repeat this 5 times. Next, starting in 2nd
gear, accelerate moderately to approximately
5,000 RPMs then come to a stop—repeat this 5
times.
4. Now that the EXP is broken-in and the clutch is
warm, re-check free play gain at your clutch
lever and adjust if necessary. Your clutch pack
will expand with heat, so final adjustments
should be made when the bike is warm. Now
you are ready to ride!
WARNING: DO NOT RIDE WITHOUT
SUFFICIENT FREE PLAY GAIN!
Checking free play gain is easy and takes less than
a minute to perform. For optimum performance
and longevity, check free play gain when the bike is
warm at the start of every ride.
FREE PLAY GAIN
TROUBLESHOOTING
Each adjustment should be done in small
increments - one tick mark at a time. After each
adjustment, repeat the rev-cycle until optimal free
play gain is achieved.
Symptom:
- Clutch lever moves in too far (too much free
play gain)
- Clutch has excessive drag
- It is difficult to fully override the clutch with
the lever
Answer: Installed Gap is too small
Solution: Turn the Adjuster Screw inwardly
(clockwise) to increase the Installed Gap.
Symptom:
- Clutch lever does not move enough or does
not move at all (too little free play gain)
- Clutch is slipping
Answer: Installed Gap is too large
Solution: Turn the Adjuster Screw outwardly
(counter-clockwise) to reduce the Installed Gap. It
may be helpful to re-find the starting point.

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CLUTCH NOISE
Although it is harmless, some bike models may
have “squeal” or “chatter” coming from the clutch at
low RPM as it engages. Clutch squeal is caused by
the clutch components vibrating as the clutch
engages and can become more audible as the
clutch gets hot. For bike models that tend to have
clutch squeal or chatter here are some
recommendations to reduce or eliminate it:
- Oil: For optimal clutch performance Rekluse
recommends using fresh, clean oil that meets
JASO-MA oil rating requirements. Rekluse
offers Factory Formulated Oil™ developed
specifically for Rekluse products. Rekluse
Factory Formulated Oil is a perfect complement
to any OEM or aftermarket wet clutch. Visit
www.rekluse.com to learn more.
- Clutch Basket: Available for some models, a
Rekluse Clutch Basket will eliminate clutch
squeal and chatter in most cases because it is
precision machined from high quality material
and includes long-life clutch dampers. A clutch
basket that is damaged or has worn-out
dampers tends to increase clutch noise.
- Installed Gap: Adjusting the Installed Gap will
NOT affect clutch squeal or chatter
MAINTENANCE
- Maintain adequate free play gain, checking
before every ride and adjusting if necessary.
- Keep up with regular oil changes as per the
bike manufacturer’s recommendations. Clutch
function and longevity depends on oil quality.
- Inspect all of your clutch parts every 40 hours
for signs of wear or excessive heat, and replace
components as necessary.
- Repeat the break-in procedure anytime the
friction disks or EXP bases or wedges are
replaced. Always soak friction disks or EXP
bases in oil for at least 5 minutes before
installing.

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EXP TUNING OPTIONS
Included are spring options to tune the engagement RPM of the EXP disk. The EXP disk comes set with the
recommended “Medium” setting from Rekluse.
ENGAGEMENT SETTING
SPRING CONFIGURATION
Low
3 Silver & 3 Red
Medium
6 Red
High
3 Red & 3 Blue
Adjusting the engine idle speed to match your engagement setting is important and greatly affects the overall
feel of how the EXP disk engages. To prevent freewheeling and maximize engine braking, set the idle so there
is a slight amount of drag while the bike is idling in gear and warmed up. The idle should not be so high as to
move the bike forward in gear with the throttle closed. However, with a small opening of the throttle the bike
should move forward.
It is NOT necessary to disassemble the EXP halves to change springs! To change springs, remove 3 of the
¼-turn pins from one side of the EXP, replace springs, and re-install ¼-turn pins. Next, flip the EXP disk over
and repeat on the other side if necessary. To maintain even pressure when using two different color spring
sets, install one color set of 3 on one side of the EXP and the remaining color set of 3 on the other side.
CAUTION: If you disassemble the EXP, bearing pads may fall out or be stuck to the ramp surfaces of the EXP
bases. Take care to ensure all pads are correctly placed into wedge pockets using gentle pressure to avoid
damage to the pad surfaces before reassembling the EXP. Properly seated pads will be secured in place once
the EXP is reassembled. Operating the clutch without the pads in place will cause part damage or failure.

195-6135
KTM Freeride ONLY
Slave Cylinder Appendix
Due to the KTM Freeride’s smaller OEM slave cylinder banjo bolt, the included thread insert needs to be
installed into the Rekluse Adjustable Slave Cylinder.
1. Thread the insert into the Rekluse Adjustable Slave Cylinder, using needle-nose pliers, starting
with the thread insert tang.
2. Stop when the thread insert is below the top surface of the fluid port. If the insert is not below
the surface the crush washers will not seal.
3. Using the needle-nose pliers, bend the thread insert tang up and down until it breaks off and
remove it from the adjustable slave cylinder.