Sailworks REVOLUTION Quick start guide

RIGGING GUIDE
www.sailworks.com
All the details
you need to know
about rigging
your newsail!

Thank you for purchasing
this Revolution sail.
The Revolution is a simple, yet highly
developed wave and freeride sail that
offers stunning versatility, power and
handling. It can be adjusted and tuned to
suit a wide variety of conditions. To fully
understand and experience the potential
of the Revolution, please take a few
minutes to read this rigging guide.
2006 REVOLUTION DIMENSIONS REQUIRED MAST
Alternate Mast
Primary Mast
SIZE LUFF MED. BOOM WEIGHT # MAST IDEAL MCS IMCS BACKBONE RDM LIPSTICK JOYSTICK
m2(cm) MED – MAX (cm) (kg) BTNS SLEEVE MAST CURVE % STIFFNESS 340 370 400 430 460 370 400 430 430 460
2.6 333 121 – 126 2.5 5 OPEN 340 12 12 - 19
3.0 349 129 – 134 2.6 5 OPEN 340 12 12 - 19
3.2 357 133 – 138 2.7 5 OPEN 340 12 12 - 19
3.4 365 136 – 141 2.8 5 OPEN 370 12 15 - 19
3.6 374 139 – 144 2.9 5 OPEN 370 12 15 - 19
3.8 383 143 – 148 3.0 5 OPEN 370 12 15 - 19
4.0 394 148 – 153 3.1 5 OPEN 400 12 15 - 21
4.2 402 152 – 157 3.2 5 OPEN 400 12 17 - 21
4.4 407 156 – 161 3.3 5 OPEN 400 12 17 - 21
4.6 413 163 – 168 3.4 5 OPEN 400 12 17 - 21
4.8 421 166 – 171 3.5 5 OPEN 430 12 17 - 21
5.0 429 170 – 175 3.6 5 OPEN 430 12 21 - 26
5.2 436 172 – 177 3.7 5 OPEN 430 12 21 - 26
5.4 445 176 – 181 3.8 5 OPEN 430 12 21 - 2
5.6 449 181 – 186 3.9 5 OPEN 430 12 21 - 2
5.8 453 187 – 192 4.0 5 OPEN 430 12 21 - 26
6.2 460 193 – 198 4.1 5 OPEN 430 12 24 - 26
6.9 477 203 – 208 4.3 5 CLOSED 460 12 24 - 26
RIGGING GUIDE
Bruce Peterson
Sailworks R+D

USE THE RIGHT MAST
One of the most important choices you
make when rigging a sail is which mast
you put in the mast sleeve. Or, more
specifically the length, curve and stiffness
of the mast, and how closely these
parameters match the sail. The mast is
quite literally the backbone of the rig and
it governs the sail’s performance. The
mast requirements for the Revo are
printed on the sailbag and at the tack of
the sail. Your mast should be within this
required range, regardless of the brand
or model. The Revolution sails are
designed around “constant curve” masts
that exhibit a nominal MCS curve profile
of 64% at the base and 76% at the tip. If
in doubt about the suitability of your
mast, consult with your Sailworks dealer
or representative, or contact Sailworks
directly through our web page:
www.sailworks.com
Not all sail sizes will work on the same
mast. Sailworks sails are designed
around an equivalency ratio of static
pre-tensioning per square meter. This
means larger sails need morepre-
tensioning and smaller sails need less.
Thus, larger sails need longer and stiffer
masts while smaller sails requireshorter
and softer masts. Two of the most
common compatibility problems are:
i) Using too long, or too stiff a mast.
This restricts wind range by over-
tensioning the sail.
ii) Using too short or too soft a mast.
This restricts wind range by
insufficiently stabilizing the sail.
Each Revo sail size is designed and
balanced on a specific Sailworks mast to
suit conditions typical for the “average”
size sailor (140 - 190 lb./ 63 - 86 kg).
If you arelighter than this average, or
prefer a softer handling feel, consider
using the next mast softer or shorter
listed in the table. Heavier sailors can use
aslightly stiffer mast to increase rig
tension and stability.
Certain Revo sizes (3.2, 3.8, 4.6 and
5.8 m2), are “cross-over” sizes in that
they can be rigged effectively on two
different mast lengths, depending in the
weight of the rider. Sailors over 90
kilograms (200 lbs) should consider using
the next longer (and stiffer) mast than
that recommended on these sizes.
We highly recommend coating your mast
with McLube SailKote™, a dry Teflon
marine lubricant. This lubricant will
dramatically reduces friction along the
mast and makes inserting and removing
the mast much easier.
SET THE HEADCAP LENGTH
All the Revo sails have a double
adjustable headcap system that allows
you to adjust the length at either end
of the strap. This also allows you to
replace the strap at the beach if it
wears out. A spare strap is included
with this rigging guide, and it is long
enough for use with a longer mast.
The strap installed on the sail is the
correct length for the optimum
mast length.
Check the luff length of your sail –
(printed at the tack and on the sailbag),
and compareit to your mast length. If
your mast is shorter than the lufflength,
adjust the headcap strap so the
headcap is as close to the top of the
mast sleeve as you can set it. If your
mast is longer than the lufflength,
estimate the amount of mast that will
extend out the top of the sleeve (mast
length minus luff length). Adjust the
strap so that the top of the headcap is
1-2 cm shorter than this distance away
from the top of the mast sleeve to allow
for the headcap strap to cinch tight.
FIRST TIME RIGGING

RIGGING GUIDE
RIG ASSEMBLY
1. INSERT THE MAST
Pull the sail down the mast in sections using first the tack handle and the boom
opening to assist you. Work the mast tip to the top of the sleeve before trying to
pull the tack all the way down to the base of the mast. To prevent excessive
wrinkling and creasing of the luff panel, try to avoid laying the sail down on the
ground before the mast is all the way in. Keep the battens all rotated to the
under-side of the mast. Check that the headcap is seated completely in the mast
cap and that the two-piece coupling of the mast is joined completely before
applying downhaul tension.
2. ATTACH THE MAST BASE
If your mast is shorter than the sail’s luff
length, estimate the amount of mast
base extension needed (luff length minus
mast length), and adjust your base
extension. Your downhaul pulley system
should have 6:1 purchase and enough
line to make lacing easy. The Power
Block triple pulley on the sail works best
with 4 or 5 mm line. Lace the downhaul
line, keeping the path of line looping in
the same direction each time you feed it
through the Power Block and through
your base pulleys. We recommend lacing
counter-clockwise working from the
underside upwards to the top pulley. Try
not to cross the lines, as this increases
friction and makes the downhaul harder
to pull.
Do not fully downhaul the sail yet –
leave the downhaul just “hand-tight”,
or at 50% maximum tension.
3. ATTACH THE BOOM
Adjust your boom to the length
specified for the sail. Attach the boom at your preferred boom height. If in
doubt as to where to place the boom, attach it to the mast at the middle of
the boom opening and re-adjust it after the sail is fully rigged. Be careful not
to attach it too high in the boom opening, as you must account for the sail to
be downhauled further. Also be careful not to pinch the mast sleeve or your
uphaul line under the boom clamp. Do not set the outhaul yet.
INLINE PULLEYS
back view side view
OPPOSED PULLEYS
back view side view

4. TENSION THE STREAMLINED
BATTEN TENSIONERS (SBT’s)
The battens are
tensioned using the
hex-key tool found
under the Velcro
tab above the
tack handle. Insert
the hex-key into
the cap screw inside
the end of each SBT at
the leech end of each batten. Turn the hex-
key to the right (clockwise) to tighten.
Tension the battens JUST until the small
wrinkles across the batten pockets
disappear. Look for continuous smooth
shape to the sailcloth adjacent to the
batten pocket (see photos). You should
see a smooth reflection, with no wrinkles
alongside the battens. Batten tension
should be tightest on the lower battens
and looser on the upper battens.
CAUTION: DO NOT OVER-TENSION
THE BATTENS – POOR ROTATION,
EXCESSIVE FOIL DEPTH AND
DAMAGE TO THE SAIL CAN RESULT.
Replace the hex-key tool back in its pocket above the tack handle. The batten
tension will need to be re-tightened after the initial one or two uses as the sail
stretches and sets into its final shape. Once the batten tension is set, it’s not
necessary to release batten tension after each session.
5. TUNING THE DOWNHAUL
Thereare two key indicators of correct tension to focus upon when tuning the
downhaul tension. One is the position of the batten tips relative to the mast, particularly
the batten just above the boom. The other is profile angle of the upper battens and
tension distribution around the head and leech. The downhaul is the primary controller
of the sail’s shape and performance. With the boom on, but no outhaul pulled, discover
the downhaul’s effect by slowly pulling and releasing the downhaul line few times.
Watch the change in depth and tension of the leading edge (front 1/3 of the sail), and
the flattening and loosening of the head and leech area as more downhaul is pulled.
Specifically notice the change in the angles, or twist, of the upper battens.
▲needs batten tension
▲perfect batten tension

5. TUNING THE DOWNHAUL
(continued)
The top batten should twist open to leeward the furthest - called
“progressive twist”. Twist is cut into the panel layout and seam
shape of the sail, but is ultimately controlled by the downhaul
tension. More downhaul induces more twist; less downhaul allows
less twist. Twist improves sail efficiency by lowering the center of
effort and making the sail easier to control. The
head and leech looseness that creates the twist
in the sail’s shape is a drag-reducing feature that
improves the overall aerodynamic efficiency of
the sail. Note that it is more significant how far
IN from the leech looseness extends, rather than
how far DOWN the leech it extends.
The optimum downhaul setting gives a tight luff
with a lean entry. The leech area between upper
battens should become loose in arced lines from
the ends of the battens around the fronts of the
mini battens (see rigging photos on the next
page). The front end of the batten above the
boom should be at or very near the back edge
of the mast.
Use less downhaul to increase foil depth for more power, to tighten
the leech for better pumping; and to reduce twist and increase
power in the upper part of the sail. Use more downhaul to tighten
and flatten the leading edge of the sail, to lower the center of effort
and to induce moretwist.
Once you’refamiliar with the correct downhaul
setting, re-check the headcap length vs. mast
base height. If necessary, readjust these so that
the tack pulley sits very close to the mast base
cleat, and the amount of mast extending out the
top of the mast sleeve is minimized. Never use
both mast base extension AND headcap
extension – eliminate one and minimize the
other.
If needed, use an easy-rig or downhauling crank
so that it is easier to make the correct settings.
To ensure that the
sail is tuned properly,
you must make a
judgment upon the
wind conditions you
are about to use the
sail in, and tune the
sail according to
your size, skill and
abilities to handle
those conditions.
RIGGING GUIDE

6. BALANCE THE OUTHAUL SETTING
Release any outhaul tension and allow the sail to relax naturally. For
reaching conditions at medium downhaul settings, pull the outhaul a
minimum of 2.5 cm (1 inch) from this neutral position. Cleat off the outhaul
line. Check the foil depth by pushing on the sail area near the front of the
boom or standing it up in the wind. Under pressure, the sail will increase in
depth as the battens pull back from the mast. When luffing or without
pressure, the sail will flatten.
>Less outhaul makes the sail fuller, moves the center of effort (power)
further back and creates more power for accelerating and deep reaching.
This setting is harder to control when over-powered or sailing upwind.
>More outhaul makes the sail flatter, moves the center of effort (power)
further forward and creates a lean, tight foil that is more efficient for
upwind sailing or over-powered conditions. Whenever you significantly
change downhaul, you will need to adjust the outhaul tension too.
By design, the Revo sails are exceptionally responsive to changes in
outhaul settings. Use the outhaul as a throttle control for more or less
power. Set the sail fuller with less outhaul for more power. Set the sail
flatter with more outhaul for more stability and control in high winds. Set
the downhaul first to match the wind conditions, and then adjust your
outhaul settings.

RIGGING GUIDE
“How do I rig my sail
for bump & jump
conditions?”
QA
Set your sail up with more downhaul and less
outhaul to get the maximum power and twist for
control in gusts and chop.
“How does the
downhaul affect the
outhaul; why do I need
to adjust both?”
QA
When you downhaul a sail, you are essentially
bending the mast into the curve of the sail’s mast
sleeve. As you pull more downhaul, the clew
moves away from the mast, increasing the boom
length. As you ease off the downhaul, the clew
moves towardthe mast, decreasing boom length.
“What do I do If I keep
getting backwinded
when wave sailing?”
QA
Flatten the sail more by pulling the outhaul and
downhaul so the batten above the boom clears
the mast. If the foil is too deep it will backwind as
you change direction on a wave. A flatter sail will
be more controllable in wave riding, but less
powerful to get up on a plane.
“Why do I keep getting
pitched forward?”
QA
The sail needs moredownhaul to flatten the
upper section of the sail and increase the amount
of twist. This will streamline the upper section of
the sail and lower the center of effort.
“Why does my back arm
get tired? I’m having a
hard time sheeting in?”
QA
The sail needs more outhaul. This will move the
draft forwardand improve directional stability
and control.
“Why does the draft
profile seem to move
around a lot?”
QA
You need moredownhaul to stabilize the sail
shape better. Increase the downhaul tension, and
then use the outhaul to create foil depth for
power as required.
“Why is the downhaul
difficult to pull?”
QA
Make sureyour downhaul lines arenot crossed
through the pulleys, especially the last loop that
goes to the cleat. Make sure your line diameter
isn’ttoo thick. Use a fresh piece of line. Try using
an easy-rig or downhaul crank.
“Why don’t my battens
rotate veryeasily?”
QA
Check that the battens arenot over tensioned, as
excessive batten tension will impede rotation.
Increase the downhaul tension. Insufficient
downhaul impedes batten rotation.
“Why can’t I get
planing when I feel I
should be able to?”
QA
Ease the downhaul slightly. Too much downhaul
flattens the foil and excessively loosens the leech,
which gives you more control in heavy wind, but
less power in light wind. Ease the outhaul to
deepen the foil shape. Too much outhaul will also
flatten the sail and take power away,which is good
for high wind control but not for light wind power.

•If it doesn’t feel right, it probably isn’t. A well-tuned
rig should be effortless to sail and control. Take the
time to explore different settings and make the
changes necessary to balance the aerodynamic
forces from the sail.
•Once you have found settings (boom length, mast
base length, boom height, mast step position,
downhaul and outhaul position, harness line
position) that feel balanced, record the position of
each adjustment so that they areeasy to repeat
next session. Mark the settings with a waterproof
marker right on your equipment.
GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR GEAR

RIGGING GUIDE
light wind settings
mid-range settings
high wind settings
Visual Reference:
Pull downhaul so the leech
looseness comes to within 10cm
of the white half cog logo
Visual Reference:
Pull downhaul so the leech
looseness extends up to 10cm
past the white half cog logo
Visual Reference:
Pull downhaul so the leech
looseness extends right to
the white half cog logo