Sailworks Retro Quick start guide

© Sa lworks Inc.
Des gn: Br dgeworks UK
Pr nted n USA
Photography:
Vlado Sklenar
Bruce Peterson
• Shake the sand off before rolling up your
sail at the beach, as this will help keep the
monofilm clear. Most scratches are caused
by sand and grit abrading the sail while it’s
rolled up.
• Prevent creases in the monofilm by rolling
your sail tightly and using the bungee Snap
Tie to keep it rolled tightly and store the
sail where it won’t get flattened.
• Rinse with fresh water occasionally,
including inside the mast sleeve, to avoid
salt and sand buildup.
• Avoid rigging on hard or abrasive surfaces.
• If left rigged for extended periods, release
the outhaul and downhaul.
• Store your rigged sail out of direct sunlight.
Prolonged exposure to the sun’s rays will
degrade the sailcloth.
• Repair tears promptly through a qualified
sail repairperson. Make temporary repairs
to the monofilm or X-ply with Mylar
packing tape or a sticker on both sides.
• Do not use solvents for cleaning near
seams, as this will dissolve the seam tape
adhesives. Use water and mild soap. To
remove tar spots or sticker adhesive
residue use a citrus based cleaner.
• When leaving your sail unattended on the
beach, secure it from blowing away.
• Avoid getting sand or dirt inside the mast
sleeve and batten pockets. This reduces
sail performance by increasing friction and
wear on the mast and battens.
• Loosen the batten tension if you are not
going to use the sail for an extended
period.
• Check the non-skid texture on your board.
Very coarse or excessively distributed non-
skid on the rails around the mast step and
at the nose can badly damage the sail.
Lightly sand the texture down with some
fine sandpaper so that it is less abrasive
to the sail.
SAIL MAINTENANCE
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www.sailworks.com
gearthatwork
BATTEN END
ANTI-CHAFE
COVERS
SCREW BATTEN
TENSIONERS ON
ALL BATTENS
ANTI-FLUTTER
LEECH BATTENS
STEPPED X-PLY
CONSTRUCTION USING
100 MICRON BI-AXIAL &
150 MICRON TRI-AXIAL
LAMINATES
2-POSITION
STAINLESS STEEL
CLEW GROMMETS
INSET CLEW DESIGN
SHORTENS BOOM LENGTH
AND REDUCES SWING
WEIGHT (SIZES 6.0 - 11.0)
POLYURETHANE ANTI-CHAFE STRIP
POLYURETHANE
REINFORCED FOOT EDGE
RIGGING HANDLE WITH
HEX KEY RETAINER
MAST BASE PAD
BALLISTIC NYLON
CHAFE PANEL
5-LAYER TAPED SEAM
CONSTRUCTION
DURABLE SCRIM
X-PLY LAMINATE
WIDE BOOM
OPENING CUT-OUT
WITH REINFORCED
STITCHING
DOUBLE FOLDED
TRIPLE STITCHED
MAST SLEEVE
FOUR TUBE BATTENS
WITH REINFORCED
FERRULE COUPLINGS
KEVLAR BATTEN STOP
CONSTRUCTION
LOW TAPER MAST SLEEVE
FOR EASY MAST INSERTION
MAST TOP PATCH FROM
“BALLISTIC” NYLON
ADJUSTABLE HEAD CAP SYSTEM
WITH USER REPLACEABLE
WEBBING STRAP
TRUNCATED HEAD
DOWNHAUL
TUNING MARK
WELDED
TRIPLE PULLEY
SNAP TIE
BUNGEE
STORAGE CORD
RUBBER LABEL KEEPS
MAST SLEEVE OPEN
riggingguide
all you need to get you going

USE THE RIGHT MAST
One of the most important choices you make
when rigging a sail is which mast to put in the
mast sleeve. Or, more specifically the length,
curve and stiffness of the mast, and how
closely these parameters match the sail. The
mast is quite literally the backbone of the rig
and it governs the sail’s performance. The
mast requirements for the Retro are printed on
the sailbag and at the tack of the sail. Your
mast should be within this required range,
regardless of the brand or model. The Retro
sails are designed around “constant curve”
masts that exhibit an MCS curve profile of
64% at the base and 76% at the tip.
These masts have been tested and confirmed
to be compatible with the Retro sails:
Sailworks: Spee stick, Joystick, Lipstick,
backbone, Lightstick, XR, FR,
EPX
Powerex: Z-Speed, Z-Free, Z-Wave
Fiberspar: 6000, 4800, 4200 Series,
Reflex Wave
Pryde: X5, X7 & X9
North: XC 50,Viper 75
The following masts have been tested and
proven to be problematic (too flex-top) for
Retro sails:
Pryde: Race Pro, Freeride pro (1999 &
2000)
Fiberspar: Reflex 5000 & 4600 Series from
the pre “Quicktip” era (1998)
If in doubt about the suitability of your mast,
ask your Sailworks dealer, or contact
Sailworks directly through feedback at:
www.sailworks.com
Not all sail sizes will work on the same mast.
Sailworks sails are designed around an
equivalency ratio of static pre-tensioning per
square meter. This means larger sails need
more pre-tensioning and smaller sails need
less. Thus, larger sails need longer and stiffer
masts while smaller sails require shorter and
softer masts. Two of the most common
compatibility problems are:
i) Using too long, or too stiff a mast. This
restricts wind range by over-tensioning
the sail.
ii) Using too
short or too
soft a mast. This also restricts wind range
by insufficiently stabilizing the sail.
Each Retro size is designed and balanced on
a specific Sailworks mast to suit conditions
typical for the “average” size sailor (140 - 190
lb/63 - 86 kg). If you are lighter, or prefer a
softer handling feel, consider using the next
mast softer or shorter listed in the table.
Heavier sailors can use a slightly stiffer mast to
increase rig tension and stability. Retro 4.5,
6.0, 7.5 and 9.5 m2, are “cross-over” sizes in
that they can be rigged effectively on two
different mast lengths, depending on the
weight of the rider. Sailors over 90 kilograms
(200 lbs) should consider using the longer and
stiffer mast option recommended for these
sizes.
We highly recommend coating your mast
with McLube SailKote™, a dry Teflon marine
lubricant. This lubricant will dramatically
reduces friction along the mast and makes
inserting and removing the mast much
easier.
SET THE HEADCAP LENGTH
Retro sizes 8.0 and larger have closed
heads, so no adjustment is necessary. Sizes
7.0 and smaller have a double adjustable
headcap system that allows you to adjust
the length at either end of the strap. This
also allows you to replace the strap at the
beach if it wears out. A spare strap is
included with this rigging guide, and it is long
enough for use with a longer mast. The strap
installed on the sail is the correct length for
the optimum mast length.
Check the luff length of your sail – (printed at
the tack and on the sailbag), and compare it
to your mast length. If your mast is shorter
than the luff length, adjust the headcap strap
so the headcap is as close to the top of the
mast sleeve as you can set it. If your mast is
longer than the luff length, estimate the
amount of mast that will extend out the top
of the sleeve (mast length minus luff length).
Adjust the strap so that the top of the
headcap is 1-2 cm shorter than this distance
away from the top of the mast sleeve to
allow for the headcap strap to cinch tight.
Bruce Peterson
Sailworks R+D
Thank you for going
Retro!
Your new Retro is a simple, yet highly
developed camless sail that offers
stunning versatility, power and
handling. It can be adjusted and
tuned to suit a wide variety of
conditions, because it has a unique
shaping and tension profile. To fully
understand and experience the
Retro’s potential, please take a few
minutes to read this rigging guide.
RETRO DIMENSIONS REQUIRED MAST
SIZE LUFF ED. BOO WEIGHT # AST IDEAL CS I CS LIPSTICK BACKBONE JOYSTICK SPEED/LIGHTSTICK
m2(cm) ED – AX (cm) (kg) BTNS SLEEVE AST CURVE% STIFFNESS 400 430 460 400 430 460 430 460 490 520 430 460 490 520 550
4.5 409 161 – 166 3.7 6 OPEN 400 12 17 - 21
5.0 426 171 – 176 3.9 6 OPEN 430 12 21 - 25
5.5 446 182 – 187 4.1 6 OPEN 430 12 21 - 25
6.0 458 177 – 182* 4.3 7 OPEN 430 12 21 - 25
6.5 473 186 – 191* 4.5 7 OPEN 460 12 25 - 30
7.0 484 195 – 200* 4.7 7 OPEN 460 12 25 - 30
7.5 490 205 – 210* 4.9 7 OPEN 460 12 25 - 30
8.0 504 214 – 219* 5.1 7 FIXED 490 12 28 - 30
8.5 512 223 – 228* 5.3 7 FIXED 490 12 28 - 30
9.0 517 232 – 237* 5.5 7 FIXED 490 12 28 - 30
9.5 527 242 – 247* 5.7 7 FIXED 490 12 28 - 30
10.0 538 248 – 253* 5.8 7 FIXED 520 12 28 - 33
11.0 558 262 – 267* 6.1 7 FIXED 520 12 28 - 33
Primary ast Alternate ast
riggingguide
FIRST TIME RIGGING

4. TENSION THE STREAMLINED BATTEN
TENSIONERS (SBT’s)
The battens are
tensioned using the
hex-key tool found
under the Velcro tab
above the tack
handle. Insert the hex-
key into the cap screw
at the leech end of each
batten. Turn the hex-key to the right
(clockwise) to tighten, JUST until the small
wrinkles across the batten pockets disappear
(see photos). You should see a smooth
reflection, with no wrinkles alongside the
battens. Batten tension should be tightest on
the lower battens and looser on the upper
battens.
CAUTION: DO NOT OVER-TENSION THE
BATTENS – POOR ROTATION, EXCESSIVE
FOIL DEPTH AND DAMAGE TO THE SAIL
CAN RESULT.
Replace the hex-key tool back in its
pocket above the tack handle. The batten
tension will need to be re-tightened after
the initial one or two uses as the sail
stretches and sets into its final shape.
Once the batten tension is set, it’s not
necessary to release batten tension after each session.
5. TUNING THE DOWNHAUL
There are two key indicators of correct downhaul tension. One is the
position of the batten tips (front ends) relative to the mast, particularly the
batten just above the boom. The other is profile angle of the upper battens
and tension distribution around the head and leech. The downhaul is the
primary controller of the sail’s shape and performance. With the boom on,
but no outhaul pulled, discover the downhaul’s effect by slowly pulling and
releasing the downhaul line a few times. Watch the change in depth and
tension of the leading edge (front 1/3 of the sail), and the flattening and
loosening of the head and leech area as more downhaul is pulled.
Specifically notice the change in the angles, or twist, of the upper battens.
The top batten should twist open to leeward the furthest - called
“progressive twist”.
▲need batten ten ion
RIG ASSEMBLY
1. INSERT THE MAST
Pull the sail down the mast in sections using first the tack handle and the
boom opening to assist you. Work the mast tip to the top of the sleeve
before trying to pull the tack all the way down to the base of the mast. To
prevent excessive wrinkling and creasing of the luff panel, try to avoid
laying the sail down on the ground before the mast is all the way in. Keep
the battens all rotated to the under-side of the mast. Check that the
headcap is seated completely in the
mast cap and that the two-piece
coupling of the mast is joined
completely before applying downhaul
tension.
2. INSERT THE MAST BASE
If your mast is shorter than the sail’s luff
length, estimate the amount of mast
base extension needed (luff length
minus mast length), and adjust your
base extension. Your downhaul pulley
system should have 6:1 purchase and
enough line to make lacing easy. The
triple pulley on the Retro works best
with 4 or 5 mm line. Lace the
downhaul line as shown here.
Do not fully ownhaul the sail yet –
leave the ownhaul just “han -
tight”, or at 50% maximum tension.
3. ATTACH THE BOOM
If you plan to use the on-the-fly
a justable outhaul system
enclose , set that up on your boom
before attaching the boom to the
mast. Follow the instructions
enclose with the a justable
outhaul for setup an use. Visit the vi eo gallery at sailworks.com
for more ownhaul lacing tips.
Adjust your boom to the length specified for the sail. Attach the boom
at your preferred boom height. If in doubt, attach it to the mast at the
middle of the boom opening and re-adjust it after the sail is fully rigged.
Be careful not to attach it too high in the boom opening, as you must
account for the sail to be downhauled further. Also be careful not to
pinch the mast sleeve or your uphaul line under the boom clamp.
Do not set the outhaul yet.
INLINE PULLE S ▼
back view ide view
OPPOSED PULLE S ▼
back view ide view
riggingguide
▲perfect batten ten ion

6. BALANCE THE OUTHA U L S ETTING
Release any outhaul tension and allow the sail to relax naturally. For
reaching conditions at medium downhaul settings, pull the outhaul a
minimum of 2.5 cm (1 inch) from this neutral position. Cleat off the outhaul
line. Check the foil depth by pushing on the sail area near the front of the
boom or standing it up in the wind. Under pressure, the sail will increase in
depth as the battens pull back from the mast. When luffing or without
pressure, the sail will flatten.
Less outhaul makes the sail fuller, moves the center of effort (power)
further back, and creates more power for accelerating and deep reaching.
This setting is harder to control when over-powered or sailing upwind.
More outhaul makes the sail flatter, moves the center of effort (power)
further forward, and creates a lean, tight foil that is more efficient for
upwind sailing or over-powered conditions. Whenever you significantly
change downhaul, you will need to adjust the outhaul tension too.
By design, the Retro sails are exceptionally responsive to changes in
outhaul settings. Use the outhaul as a throttle control for more or less
power. Set the sail fuller with less outhaul for more power. Set the sail
flatter with more outhaul for more stability and control in high winds. If you
are not using an adjustable outhaul system, you should be. These small
outhaul changes can then be made on the fly while sailing to greatly
expand the wind range of the sail. Note that having and using an
adjustable outhaul system does not replace or negate the importance of
proper downhaul tuning. Set the ownhaul first to match the wind
conditions, and then adjust your outhaul settings.
5. TUNING THE DOW N HAUL (co ntinued )
Twist is cut into the panel layout and seam shape of the sail, but is
ultimately controlled by the downhaul tension. More downhaul induces
more twist; less downhaul allows less twist. Twist improves sail efficiency
by lowering the center of effort and making the sail easier to control. The
head and leech looseness that creates the twist in the sail’s shape is a
drag-reducing feature that improves the overall aerodynamic efficiency of
the sail. Note that it is more significant how far IN from the leech looseness
extends, rather than how far DOWN the leech it
extends.
The optimum downhaul setting gives a tight luff
with a lean entry. The leech area between upper
battens should become loose in arced lines from
the ends of the battens around the front of the
front ends of the mini battens. The Retro has a
white half-cog downhaul graphic positioned in front
of the 2nd mini battens as a “pull-to” downhaul
reference mark. Use this half-cog graphic as a
visual reference mark to achieve the desired leech
looseness. The target setting for all-around
conditions is to pull the downhaul until the leech
looseness extends all the way in to the reference
mark. See the downhaul settings chart for more
detail. The front end of the batten above the boom
should be at or very near the back edge of the mast.
Use less downhaul to increase foil depth for more power, to tighten the
leech for better pumping; and to reduce twist and increase power in the
upper part of the sail. Use more downhaul to tighten and flatten the leading
edge of the sail, to lower the center of effort and to induce more twist.
Once you’re familiar with the correct downhaul setting, re-check the
headcap length vs. mast base height. If necessary, readjust these so that
the tack pulley sits very close to the mast base cleat, and the amount of
mast extending out the top of the mast sleeve is minimized. Never use
both mast base extension AND headcap extension – eliminate one and
minimize the other.
If needed, use an easy-rig or downhauling crank so that it is easier to
make the correct settings.
To ensure that the
sail is tune properly,
you must make a
ju gment upon the
win con itions you
are about to use the
sail in, an tune the
sail accor ing to
your size, skill an
abilities to han le
those con itions.
riggingguide

• If t doesn’t feel r ght, t probably sn’t. A well-tuned r g
should be effortless to sa l and control. Take the t me to
explore d fferent sett ngs and make the changes necessary
to balance the aerodynam c forces from the sa l.
• Once you have found sett ngs (boom length, mast base
length, boom he ght, mast step pos t on, downhaul and
outhaul pos t on, harness l ne pos t on) that feel balanced,
record the pos t on of each adjustment so that they are easy
to repeat next sess on. Mark the sett ngs w th a waterproof
marker r ght on your equ pment.
“Why does my Retro
have wrinkles in the
foot area?”
QA
The Retro has some diagonal wrinkles in
the foot area that are visible when the sail
is static (unloaded). They are associated
with the flexible nature of a semi-rigid
three-dimension structure and are
not indicative of a construction problem
or error. They are a by-product of the
very deep broadseaming profile and
elastic rotation of the foil from static to
loaded forms.
These wrinkles will diminish under wind
pressure as the sail fills out to its
maximum depth.
“Why does the draft
profile seem to
move around a lot?”
QA
You need more downhaul to stabilize the
sail shape better. Increase the downhaul
tension, then use the outhaul to create
foil depth for power as required.
“Why is the
downhaul difficult
to pull?”
QA
Make sure your downhaul lines are not
crossed through the pulleys, especially
the last loop that goes to the cleat. Make
sure your line diameter isn’t too thick.
Use a fresh piece of line. Try using an
easy-rig or downhaul crank.
“Why don’t my
battens rotate
very easily?”
QA
Check that the battens are not over
tensioned, as excessive batten tension
will impede rotation. Increase the
downhaul tension. Insufficient downhaul
impedes batten rotation.
“Why can’t I get
planing when I
feel I should be
able to?”
QA
Ease the downhaul slightly. Too much
downhaul flattens the foil and excessively
loosens the leech, which gives you more
control in heavy wind, but less power in
light wind. Ease the outhaul to deepen
the foil shape. Too much outhaul will also
flatten the sail and take power away. Lots
of outhaul is good for high wind control
but not for light wind power. Use an
adjustable outhaul system to be able to
make outhaul adjustments on the fly.
TYPICAL
STATIC
SURFACE
WRINKLES
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GETTING THE MOST FROM OUR GEAR
riggingguide
all you need to get you going

light wind settings
mid-range settings
high wind settings
V sual Reference:
Pull downhaul so the leech
looseness comes to w th n 10cm
of the wh te half cog logo
Wh te half-cog
reference mark
Wh te half-cog
reference mark
V sual Reference:
Pull downhaul so the leech
looseness extends up to 10cm
past the wh te half cog logo
V sual Reference:
Pull downhaul so the leech
looseness extends r ght to
the wh te half cog logo
batten tip to middle of mast
cro ection profile of batten above boom
batten tip to back of mast
b
ood all-round settings for maximum power and control.
Downhaul: • Leech shows looseness extending in right up to the
white half cog logo
• Batten tip above boom sits at back edge of mast with
slight overlap
• Lean foil, moderate twist
Outhaul: • Pull the outhaul about 2-3 cm (1") from neutral
• Boom set at medium specified length
cro ection profile of batten above boom
batten tip behind mast
b
Maximum control and stability in high winds, but not powerful in light winds.
Downhaul: • Leech shows looseness extending up to 10 cm (4") past the
white half cog logo
• Batten tip above boom sits behind mast
• Flatter foil, more twist
Outhaul: • Pull the outhaul about 4 cm (1 1/2") from neutral
• Boom length becomes longer
cro ection profile of batten above boom
riggingguide
Maximum power in light winds, but less stable and harder to control when overpowered.
Downhaul: • Leech shows looseness along the edge between battens and
extends in to the within 10 cm (4
") of the white
half cog logo
• Batten tip above boom sits beside mast, but never extends
past it
• Deeper foil, less twist
Outhaul: • Pull the outhaul about 1-2 cm (1/2-1") from neutral position
• Boom length becomes shorter