Sears CRAFTSMAN 113.228162 User manual

Save This Manual
For Future Reference
SEARS
owners
manual
MODEL NO.
113.228162
LATHE WITH MOTOR
Model and serial
number may be found
under belt guard.
You should record both
model and serial number
in a safe place for
future use.
CAUTION:
Read GENERAL and
ADDITIONAL SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
carefully
CRRFTSMRN
12-INCH
WOOD-TURNING LA THE
e assembly
. © operating
e repair parts
Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.
Part No. 70057
Printed In U.S.A.

FULL
ONE
YEAR
WARRANTY
ON
CRAFTSMAN
WOOD
LATHE
If
within
one
year
from
the
date
of
purchase,
this
Craftsman
Wood
Lathe
fails
due
to
a
defect
in
material
or
workmanship,
Sears
will
repair
it,
free
of
charge.
WARRANTY
SERVICE
IS
AVAILABLE
BY
SIMPLY
CONTACTING
THE
NEAREST
SEARS
SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT
THROUGHOUT
THE
UNITED
STATES.
THIS
WARRANTY
APPLIES
ONLY
WHILE
THIS
PRODUCT
IS
IN
USE
IN
THE
UNITED
STATES.
This
warranty
gives
you
specific
legal
rights,
and
you
may
also
have
other
rights
which
vary
from
state
to
state.
SEARS,
ROEBUCK
AND
CO.,
Dept.
698/7314,
Sears
Tower,
Chicago,
IL
60684
general safety instructions for power tools
1.
KNOW
YOUR
LATHE
13.
SECURE
WORKPIECE
Read
and
understand
owner's
manual
and
labels
affixed
to
Mount
workpiece
securely
between
centers.
the
tool.
Learn
its
application
and
limitations
as
well
as
its
specific
potential
hazards
peculiar
to
this
tool.
14.
DON'T
OVERREACH
2.
GROUND
THE
LATHE
Keep
proper
footing
and
balance
at
all
times.
This
Lathe
is
equipped
with
an
approved
3-conductor
15.
MAINTAIN
TOOLS
WITH
CARE
cord
and a
3-prong
grounding
type
plug
to
fit
the
proper
grounding
type
receptacle.
The
green
conductor
in
the
Keep
tools
sharp
and
clean
for
best
and
safest
perform-
cord
is
the
grounding
wire.
Never
connect
the
green
wire
ance.
Follow
instructions
for
lubricating
and
changing
to
a
live
terminal.
accessories.
3. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE
—
in
working
order,
and
in
proper
adjustment
and
align-
16.
DISCONNECT
YOUR
LATHE
ment.
before
servicing;
when
changing
accessories
or
attach-
4.
REMOVE
ADJUSTING
KEYS
AND
WRENCHES
ments.
Form
habit
of
checking
to
see
that
keys
and
adjusting
17.
AVOID
ACCIDENTAL
STARTING
wrenches are removed from tool before turning it on. Н DADA $ i А
i
S
кашып
9
Make
sure
switch
is
іп
“OFF”
position
before
plugging
5. KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN
in.
Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents. Floor must
not
be
slippery
due
to
wax
or
sawdust.
18.
USE
RECOMMENDED
ACCESSORIES
6.
AVOID
DANGEROUS
ENVIRONMENT
Consult
this
owner's
manual
for
recommended
accessories.
Follow the instructions that accompany the accessories.
Don't
use
power
tools
in
damp
or
wet
locations
or
expose
The
use
of
improper
accessories
may
cause
hazards.
them to rain. Keep work area well lighted. Provide ade-
quate
surrounding
work
space.
19.
NEVER
STAND
ON
LATHE
7.
KEEP
CHILDREN
AWAY
All visitors should be kept a safe distance from work area.
8.
MAKE
WORKSHOP
CHILD-PROOF
Do
not
store
materials
such
that
it is
necessary
to
stand
on
the
tool
to
reach
them.
Serious injury could occur if the Lathe tips over.
— with padlocks, master switches, or by removing starter
keys.
20.
CHECK
DAMAGED
PARTS
9.
USE
PROPER
SPEED
Before
further
use
of
the
Lathe,
a
guard
or
other
part
that
The
Lathe
will
do
the
job
better
and
safer
when
operated
is
damaged
should
be
carefully
checked
to
ensure
that
it
at
the
proper
speed.
will
operate
properly
and
perform
its
intended
function.
10.
USE
RIGHT
TOOL
Check
for
alignment
of
moving
parts,
binding.of
moving
parts, breakage of parts, mounting, and any other con-
"tf tach j ich i " 1 i
Don't
force
tool
or
attachment
to
do
a
job
for
which
it
ditions
that
may
affect
its
operation.
A
guard
or
other
was not designed.
part that is damaged should be properly repaired or
11. WEAR PROPER APPAREL replaced.
Do not wear loose clothing, gloves, neckties or jewelry
(rings; wristwatches) to get caught in moving parts. 21. DIRECTION OF FEED
NONSLIP footwear is recommended. Wear protective Р i у e e
hair
covering
to
contain
long
hair.
Roll
long
sleeves
Apply
cutting
tool
to
the
‘workpiece
against
the
direction
above Teel вео). of spindle, rotation.
12. USE SAFETY GOGGLES (Head Protection) 22. NEVER LEAVE LATHE RUNNING
Wear safety goggles (must comply with ANSI 287.1) at all ATTENDED
times. Everyday eyeglasses only have impact resistant len-
ses, they are NOT safety glasses. Also, use face or dust
mask if cutting operation is dusty, and ear protectors
(plugs or muffs) during extended periods of operation.
Turn power “OFF”. Don't leave Lathe until it comes to a
complete stop.

additional safety instructions for wood turning lathes
Safety is a combination of operator common sense and
alertness at all times when the Lathe is being used.
WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, DO
NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE YOUR LATHE
UNTIL IT IS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED AND
INSTALLED ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUC-
TIONS . . . AND UNTIL YOU HAVE READ
AND UNDERSTAND THE FOLLOWING:
S BON
. General Safety Instructions .................. 2
. Getting to Know Your Lathe
. Basic Lathe Operation ....
. Maintenance ..... эйэ
The. Lathe and motor must be bolted down to a stand
or workbench for stability.
. Protection: Eyes, Hands, Face, Ears, Body
a. Wear safety goggles that comply with ANSI Z87.1-
1968, and a face shield if operation is dusty. Wear
ear plugs or muffs during extended periods of
operation.
b. When turning between centers or on the faceplate,
always rough-out "out of round" workpieces at
slow speed. Running the Lathe too fast, so that it
vibrates, could cause the workpiece to be thrown
from the Lathe . . . ог the turning tool to be jerked
from your hands.
c. Always revolve the workpiece by hand before turn-
ing on the motor. If the workpiece strikes the tool
rest, it could split and be thrown out of the Lathe.
d. Do not allow the turning tool to “bite” into the
workpiece which could result in splitting of the
workpiece or the workpiece being thrown from the
Lathe. Always position the tool rest above the
centerline of the Lathe for spindle turning. Do not
apply the turning tool to the workpiece below the
level of the tool rest.
е. Do not run the Lathe in the wrong direction. This
could cause the turning tool to be thrown from
your hands. The Lathe must run in a direction so
that the workpiece turns toward you.
f. Before attaching a workpiece to the faceplate al-
ways "rough it out” to as "true round” as possible.
This will minimize vibration while turning.
Always fasten the workpiece securely to the face-
plate.
Failure to perform these set-up operations could
cause the workpiece to be thrown from the Lathe.
g. Avoid awkward hand positions, where a sudden
slip could cause a hand to move into the workpiece.
h. Remove all loose knots before installing workpiece
between centers or on the faceplate.
i. Never leave the Lathe work area with the power on
before the Lathe has come to a complete stop, or
without removing and storing the switch key.
j. Never operate the Lathe with protective cover on
the unused shaft end of the motor removed.
7. Hang your turning tools on the wall toward the tail-
10.
My
12;
13.
14.
15.
16.
stock end of the Lathe. Do not lay them on the bench
so that you must reach over the revolving workpiece
to select them.
. Keep firm hold and control of the turning tool at all
times. Special caution must be exercised when knots or
voids are exposed to the turning tool.
. Note the following DANGER label which -appears on
the front of the belt guard.
DANGER
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY:
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE OWNER'S
MANUAL BEFORE OPERATING MACHINE:
1. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES PER ANSI Z87.1
AND FACE SHIELD IF OPERATION iS
DUSTY.
2. DO NOT WEAR GLOVES, NECKTIES, OR
LOOSE CLOTHING. TIE BACK LONG HAIR.
3. BE POSITIVE ALL LOCKS ARE TIGHT BE-
FORE OPERATING MACHINE.
4. TURN WORKPIECE BY HAND BEFORE
APPLYING POWER TO DETERMINE IF IT
CLEARS THE TOOL REST OR OTHER MA-
CHINE PARTS.
5. ROUGH OUT FACEPLATE WORKPIECES
BEFORE INSTALLING ON FACEPLATE TO
AVOID EXCESSIVE VIBRATION AND POS—
SIBLE INJURY.
6. DO NOT MOUNT SPLIT OR CHECKED
WORKPIECE OR ONE CONTAINING KNOT.
7. ALWAYS USE LOWEST SPEED WHEN
STARTING A NEW WORKPIECE, USING
FACEPLATE OR TURNING BETWEEN CEN-
TERS, TO MINIMIZE POTENTIAL INJURY.
Think Safety.
Complete hand sanding of between-centers or
faceplate mounted workpieces BEFORE removing
from the lathe. Do not exceed the speed used for the
last cutting operation performed on the workpiece, in
accordance with the speed chart.
NEVER attempt to remount a faceplate turning to
the faceplate for any reason. NEVER attempt to
remount a between-centers turning if the original
centers in the turning have been altered or removed.
BE POSITIVE the lathe is set at the lowest speed if
remounting a between-centers turning with
non-altered original centers.
Use extra caution in mounting a between-centers or
spindle turning to the faceplate, or a faceplate turning
to between-centers, for subsequent operations. BE
POSITIVE the lathe is set at the lowest speed before
turning ON.
NEVER mount a workpiece that contains any splits,
checks, or loose knots to a faceplate or between
centers.
Do not perform any operation when hand holding the
workpiece. Do not mount a reamer, milling cutter,
wire wheel, buffing wheel, or a drill bit to the
headstock spindle.
Use the drill chuck accessory in the tail stock only.
Do not mount any drill that extends more than 6
inches beyond chuck jaws.

WARNING: DO МОТ ALLOW FAMILIARITY (GAINED
FROM FREQUENT USE OF YOUR MACHINE) TO BE-
COME COMMONPLACE. ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT
ACARELESS FRACTION OF A SECOND IS SUFFICIENT
TO INFLICT SEVERE INJURY.
WARNING:
THE
FOUR
STEP
LATHE
AND
MOTOR
PULLEYS
FURNISHED
ARE
DESIGNED
TO
RUN
THE
LATHE
ATTHE
CORRECT
SPEEDS
WHEN
USED
WITH
A
1725
R.P.M.
MOTOR.
DO
NOT
USE
A
3450
R.P.M.
MOTOR
TO
INCREASE
THE
SPEED
BECAUSE
IT
COULD BE DANGEROUS.
The operation of any power tool can result in foreign
objects being thrown into the eyes, which can result in
severe eye damage. Always wear safety goggles complying
with ANSI Z87.1 (shown on Package) before commencing
power tool operation. Safety Goggles are available at Sears
| SAFETY — GOGGLES |
^c FORESIGHT 15
У BETTER THAN
NO SIGHT retail or catalog stores.
CONTENTS
GENERAL
SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
POWER
TOOLS
....
2
Spur
Center
and
Cup
Center
(Aligning
Centers)
v2
ADDITIONAL
SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
WOOD
TURNING
Tailstock
12
LATHE.
:
cas Ven ane
&
ёа
Pes
PER
Reus
RR
SES
Yaw
dau
3
Speed
Chart
.........
13
MOTOR
SPECIFICATIONS
AND
ELECTRICAL
BASIC
LATHE
OPERATIONS
13
REQUIREMENTS:
vais
х
s
soe
везе
now
ө
eos
ronem
mele
ктө
Changing
Speeds
13
UNPACKING
AND
CHECKING
CONTENTS
.
Spindle
Turning
.
14
ASSEMBLY
oe
ptosis
ie
niii
рате
han
вано
пее
Indexing
15
Mounting
Lathe
and
Motor
on
Workbench
HOW
TO
USE
YOUR
CRAFTSMAN
WOOD-LATHE
.
16
Spur and Cup/Center Installation
On-Off Switch
Check Motor Rotation ............
GETTING TO KNOW YOUR WOOD LATHE
Belt Guard Lock
IndexPin .....
Spindle Lock Hole
Tool Rest Bracket Lock
Tool Rest Lock ......
Tool Rest Base Lock
Handwheel ........
Tailstock Ram Lock ..
Tailstock Lock ...
On-Off Switch
2222252225222 TEE EN CERTE THESE RE E E SP
Woodworking
Chisels
and
How
to
Use
Them
Я
Making
Standard
Сшз...................
.
20
How
to
Handle
Spindle
Turnings
‚
22
Miscellaneous
Operations
.....
.
24
Faceplate
and
Chuck
Turnings
.......
ve
26
How
to
Make
Fancy
Faceplate
Turnings
"+
20:
How
to
Turn
Plastics
..............
из
28
Sanding,
Ви
па
and
Polishing
.
ww
29
MAINTENANCE
................
В
..
30
LUBRICATION
„оао
е
++
30
RECOMMENDED
ACCESSORIES
...............
.
31
TROUBLESHOOTING
...........
Hh
31
REPAIR
PARTS
.......
eee
hh
33
ECC
eegene
motor
specifications
and
electrical
requirements
This Lathe is designed to use a 1725 RPM motor only. Do
not use any motor that runs faster than 1725 RPM. It is
wired for operation on 110-120 volts, 60 Hz., alternating
current. IT MUST NOT BE CONVERTED TO OPERATE
ON 230 VOLTS. EVEN THOUGH SOME OF THE RE-
COMMENDED MOTORS ARE DUAL VOLTAGE.
THESE MOTORS HAVE BEEN FOUND TO BE
ACCEPTABLE FOR USE ON THIS TOOL.
HP
RPM
VOLTS
CATALOG
NO.
1/3
1725
110-120
1282
1/2
1725
110-120
1278
i/2
1725
110-120
1279
1/2
1725
110-120
1289
CAUTION: Do not use blower or washing machine motors
or any motor with an automatic reset overload protector
as their use may be hazardous.
CONNECTING TO POWER SOURCE OUTLET
This machine must be grounded while in use to protect the
operator from electric shock.
Plug
power
cord
into
a
110-120V
properly
grounded
type
outlet
protected
by
a
15-amp.
dual
element
time
delay
or
Circuit-Saver
fuse
or
circuit
breaker.
If you are not sure that your outlet is properly grounded,
have it checked by a qualified electrician.
WARNING: DO NOT PERMIT FINGERS TO TOUCH
THE TERMINALS OF PLUGS WHEN INSTALLING OR
REMOVING THE PLUG TO OR FROM THE OUTLET.
WARNING: IF NOT PROPERLY GROUNDED THIS
POWER TOOL CAN INCUR THE POTENTIAL HAZARD
OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK. PARTICULARLY WHEN
USED IN DAMP LOCATIONS IN PROXIMITY TO
PLUMBING. IF AN ELECTRICAL SHOCK OCCURS
THERE IS THE POTENTIAL OF A SECONDARY HAZ-
ARD
SUCH
AS
YOUR
HANDS
CONTACTING
THE
CUTTING
TOOL.
If
power
cord
is
worn
or
cut,
or
damaged
in
any
way,
have
it
replaced
immediately.
If your unit is for use on less than 150 volts it has a plug
that looks like below.
3-PRONG PLUG
GROUNDING PRONG
PROPERLY GROUNDED
3-PRONG OUTLET
This power tool is equipped with a 3-conductor cord and
grounding type plug which has a grounding prong, approved
by Underwriters’ Laboratories. The ground conductor has
a
green
jacket
and
is
attached
to
the
tool
housing
at
one
end
and
to
the
ground
prong
in
the
attachment
plug
at
the
other end,
This plug requires a mating 3-conductor grounded type
outlet as shown.
If the outlet you are planning to use for this power tool is
of
the
two
prong
type
DO
NOT
REMOVE
OR
ALTER
THE GROUNDING PRONG IN ANY MANNER. Use an
adapter
as
shown
and
always
connect
the
grounding
lug
to known ground.
It
is
recommended
that
you
have
a
qualified
electrician
replace
the
TWO
prong
outlet
with
a
properly
grounded
THREE
prong
outlet.
A temporary adapter as shown below is available for
connecting plugs to 2-prong receptacles. The green ground-
ing lug extending from the adapter must be connected to a

permanent ground such as to a properly grounded outlet
box.
Atemporary adapter as illustrated is available for connecting
plugs to 2-prong receptacles. The temporary adapter should
be used only until a properly grounded outlet can be
installed by a qualified electrician.
GROUNDING LUG
9 MAKE SURE THIS IS
= CONNECTED TOA
PLUG сд Ko KNOWN GROUND
2.
at T 2z-PRoNG
z / RECEPTACLE
ADAPTER
NOTE: The adapter illustrated is for use only if you already
have a properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.
The use of any extension cord will cause some loss of
power. To keep this to a minimum and to prevent over-
heating and motor burn-out, use the table below to deter-
3-PRONG Kal
assembly procedure
UNPACKING AND CHECKING PARTS
PARTS TABLE
Belt Guard Assembly ......................... 1
НӘ@ШИО К... oue Ke Ves vk X et nn za 1
Motor Pulley:..i. "weer ao «жуа Eé minm ge 1
V-Belt..... 1
Motor „оное 1
Large Tool Rest. «us касе eire cetera cies rassi с!
Tool Rest Holder msa «mss к» oore rrt “ж |
ве 1
1
1
1
1
Tailstock and Ram .
Rear Foot s zeng se
Clamp Support . .
Tube Or Bed ....
Small Tool Rest ... T
Manual ..... tans cs ARRA S Жаай лан ORE MUSEI RN 1
O Loose Parts Bag Part No. 507458
(Containing the following items):
Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20х1-3/4.................
Spur Center ssc. ssa eo ossos аз
Point Семїег................
Cup Center...
Cord Clamp .
Grip. «ux ees
Switch; Keys qi. аи а vo ctn tr жаз
Lockwasher, Ext. #10 .............
Nut, Lock 1/4-20............
Nut, Hex 1/4-20 ..
Nut, Sq. 1/4-20 ........
Nut, Hex Heavy 3/4-16
Zzzr^cronmocoour»
mine the minimum wire size (A.W.G.) extension cord. Use
only 3 wire extension cords which have 3-prong grounding
type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which accept the tools
plug.
Extension Cord Length Wire Size A.W.G.
Up to 100 Ft. 16
100 - 200 Ft. 14
200 - 400 Ft. 10
CHECK MOTOR ROTATION
Place the motor on your workbench or on the floor.
Standing clear of the motor shaft, plug the motor cord into a
properly grounded outlet. Notice the rotation of the shaft.
As you look directly at the motor shaft it should be turning in
the clockwise direction /^ ^w . If the motor shaft is turning
clockwise, remove the plug from the power outlet and
continue the assembly procedures. If the motor is turning
counterclockwise, remove the plug from the power outlet
and contact your Sears Store immediately.
TOOLS NEEDED
3/8 inch Wrench
7/16 inch Wrench
=>
=
Phillips Screwdriver
СЕ
Screwdriver (Medium)
===
Claw Hammer
Framing Square
Screw, Pan Hd. Ty T 10-32x 1/2.............
Screw, Рап Hd. Ty AB #8 х 1/2 ..... "
Shoe, Lock ann css сене «не e
Stud, Nut oc cies сол enn
Washer, 17/64 x 47/64 x 1/16 .
Wrench, Hex “L” 3/16 ..
Wrench, Нех “L” 5/32 .. .
Lu —— ÁÉÁÓTE

assembly
1. Unpack all the parts of your wood lathe and lay them
out in your work area so they can be recognized easily.
Check all parts with the parts table and be careful not to
lose any parts during assembly.
2. Begin by placing the tube assembly on your workbench
as shown. Always keep the squared key section straight
down.
TUBE ASSEMBLY
КИНИ
ЕЕ
ЭИ
SQUARED KEY SECTION
3.
Slide
the
headstock
onto
the
tube
until
it
stops
against
the
squared
key
section.
Insert
locking
setscrew
and
tighten
with
hex
wrench.
SPINDLE PULLEY ` HEADSTOCK SPINDLE
HEADSTOCK-TUBE LOCKING
SETSCREW IN REAR OF
HEADSTOCK Kä
Ф
a
SQUARED
KEY
SECTION
4. Slide the clamp support onto the middle of the tube.
Assemble lock handle as shown.
CLAMP SUPPORT
HEADSTOCK
END
LOCKNUT
Wap
BRASS SHOE LOCK j
STUDNUT
HANDLE
5.
Attach
the
tool
rest
holder
to
the
clamp
support
as
shown.
TOOL REST
am
SPACER =A Re
HANDLE СЧ BS
|
| ad
HEX BOLT —__
>
SS
FLAT WASHER
USE EITHER
THREADED HOLE
CLAMP SUPPORT
IN CLAMP SUPPORT
6. Set large tool rest in tool rest holder and install locking
handle as shown.
SC - Gg REST
aom
E @-—LOCKNUT
7. Slide tailstock assembly onto the tube and install
tailstock ram spindle lock handle. Notice location of
keyed way in spindle with studnut.
TAILSTOCK RAM SPINDLE
STUDNUT
Le HANDLE
LOCKNUT
KEYED WAY
HEADSTOCK END
===
TAILSTOCK ASSEMBLY
8. On the backside of the tailstock assemble the locking
devices as shown.
TAILSTOCK ASSEMBLY LOCKNUT—.J,
HANDLE
BRASS STUDNUT
SHOELOCK |
Stel
—>”
HEADSTOCK END
„Хә
BRASS SCREW воска NUT
9. Install the rear foot onto the tube as shown and tighten
rear foot locking screw. Foot will wedge into place as
screw is tightened. This may take several attempts.
As
REAR FOOT
HEADSTOCK END
222
TUBE ASSEMBLY

MOUNTING YOUR LATHE AND MOTOR ON
A WORKBENCH
SPECIAL NOTE: For best results when mounting your
lathe and motor to a workbench, lay them both on your
bench in the position which will best suit your needs. Be
sure the motor and lathe are in a parallel position and then
mark the mounting hole positions. Or, use the diagram
shown.
1. Workbench for mounting Lathe must be at least 54-in.
long. Drill six 3/8" holes in your bench according to the
diagram. NOTE: Make sure the top of your bench is
positioned so that you don't drill into the legs or rail
underneath and you have access underneath to mount
the nuts for lathe and motor bolts.
When mounting to a Sears workbench, side overhang
oftop at headstock end should be 5" from leg portion of
stand. (Front overhang of top should remain 1-1/8").
. Position Lathe on bench and insert two bolts through
holes in headstock but do not screw on the nuts.
. Position the Lathe so that the bed is parallel to the front
of the bench. Check the foot. If the bottom of the foot is
not flat on the surface of the bench, loosen the screw in
the foot, tap the screw to loosen the locknut inside. Turn
the foot so it is flat on the bench and tighten the screw.
. Mark the location on the bench of the hole in foot.
. Remove the Lathe and drill a 3/8" hole to attach the
foot.
. Position the Lathe and insert the bolts from the top.
Place a flat washer, lockwasher and a nut on the bolts
and tighten the nuts.
. Position the motor over the mounting holes.
. Insert the bolts from the top. Place a flat washer anda
nut on the bolts but do not tighten the nuts at this time.
9. Remove the headstock pulley using the 5/32" setscrew
wrench.
10. Find four pan head thread cutting screws 1/2" long and
four lockwashers from among the loose parts. Attach
the belt guard with these screws and lockwashers. The
arrows in this illustration show the location of the
screws.
— 1/8" —-4—- 1.3"
HOLES FOR MOTOR -е— |
| 4 7/8"
r1
14 5/8"
HOLES FOR LATHE
| 63/16"
| |
peu 13/8"
FRONT OF BENCH d
LOCATION OF MOUNTING HOLES
BED PARALLEL TO
FRONT EDGE OF BENCH

assembly
11. Place the headstock pulley onto the headstock shaft as
shown.
Position
it
so
that
the
end
of
the
pulley
is
flush
with the end of the lathe spindle. Tighten the pulley
screw against the flat of the shaft.
12.
Place
the
motor
pulley
on
the
motor
shaft
so
that
the
small
diameter
is approximately
1/16"
away
from
the
motor.
Tighten
the
setscrew
with
a
5/32"
setscrew
wrench
securely
against
the
flat
spot
on
the
motor
shaft.
13. Place the belt on the pulleys and slide the motor toward
the rear of workbench until all the slack is removed from
the belt. NOTE: 1/2 inch deflection of belt under
moderate pressure applied between the two pulleys is
adequate tension. Tighten only two of the motor
mounting bolts.
14. Place a straightedge such as a piece of wood, metal or
framing square across the pulleys to see if they are in
line with each other. If they are, tighten the other two
motor mounting bolts. If they are not in line, loosen the
two motor bolts and move the motor sideways . . .
tighten the bolts.
15. Find four pan head wood screws 1/2” long from among
the loose parts.
=
16. Attach the belt guard plate to the bench with the two
screws. Make sure the plate is PARALLEL to the belt.
17.
Plug
motor
cord
into
outlet
on
back
of
switch
box.
DO
NOT
plug
motor
cord
into
power
source
outlet.
18.
Position
the
two
cords
as
shown
and
clamp
them
to
the
table
with
two
cable
clamps
and
1/2”
wood
screws
from
the
loose
parts
bag.
19. Coil up the slack in the cord and tie it with a piece of tape
if necessary.
MOTOR CORD

SPUR AND CUP/CENTER INSTALLATION
1. Find a 3/4-16 hex nut among the loose parts and screw
onto head stock spindle until finger tight.
3/4-16
HEX NUT
2. Find two points and a spur and cup center among the
loose parts. To insert point into centers, place center
between jaws of a vise. Do not tighten vice. Insert point
into center and with a hammer and nail gently tap
around the base of the point until secure.
3. Insert spur center into head stock spindle and cup
center into tailstock ram. NOTE: Do not drive or
hammer centers into spindle or ram as removal may be
difficult. Use a soft hammer or block of wood and give
them a gentle tap.
4. To remove spur center from spindle, hold the spindle
pulley with one hand, and, using a wrench or pair of
pliers, turn the hex nut counterclockwise until center
is ejected.
5. To remove cup center insert а 1/4’ wood dowel or brass
rod through the hole in the tailstock ram. Hold the
center with one hand and tap the dowel or rod with a
hammer.
FOOT

assembly
WARNING: DON'T CONNECT POWER CORD TO
ELECTRICAL OUTLET IN YOUR SHOP UNTIL YOU ARE
SURE THAT MOTOR ROTATION IS CORRECT (SEE
PAGE 5).
ON-OFF SWITCH
The On-Off Switch has a locking feature. THIS FEATURE
IS INTENDED TO PREVENT UNAUTHORIZED AND
POSSIBLE HAZARDOUS USE BY CHILDREN AND
OTHERS.
1. Insert key into switch.
NOTE: Key is made of yellow plastic.
KEY
(YELLOW PLASTIC)
2. To turn Lathe ON... INSERT finger under switch lever
and pull END of switch out.
3. To turn Lathe ОРЕ... PUSH lever in.
Never leave the Lathe unattended until it has come to a
complete stop and you have removed the switch key.
Do not cycle the motor switch on and off rapidly, as
this may cause the faceplate or sanding disc to loosen.
In the event this should ever occur, stand clear of the
face plate or sanding disc until it has come to a complete
stop... retighten it.
4. To lock switch in OFF position . . . HOLD switch IN
with one hand, REMOVE key with other hand.
WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, AL-
WAYS LOCK THE SWITCH “OFF”. WHEN
LATHE IS NOT IN USE... REMOVE KEY AND
KEEP IT IN A SAFE PLACE . .. ALSO... IN
THE EVENT OF A POWER FAILURE (ALL OF
YOUR LIGHTS GO OUT) TURN SWITCH OFF...
LOCK IT AND REMOVE THE KEY. THIS WILL
PREVENT THE LATHE FROM STARTING UP
AGAIN WHEN THE POWER COMES BACK ON.
10

ROTATION
TERMINAL
CHECK SPINDLE ROTATION COVER
The Lathe spindle must rotate counterclockwise when
viewed from the spindle end.
NOTE: Make sure the spur center is removed from the
spindle.
1. Plug the Lathe power cord into a properly grounded
outlet (See page 5)
2. Standclear of the Lathe spindle and turn the switch ON.
Notice the rotation of the spindle. If it is NOT turning
COUNTERCLOCKWISE contact your Sears Store im-
mediately before using this tool.
getting to know your wood lathe
7 НАМО\УНЕЕ!.
BACK OF TOOL
7 TAILSTOCK
11 spur RAM
CENTER 10 сор center
3 SPINDLE
LOCK 8 TaiLsTOCK RAM Oy
2
INDEXPIN
HOLE
LOCK
[e
BELT
GUARD
TOOL
REST
im
TOOL REST N —— n | |
BASE =
6 тоо! REST
BASE LOCK
SPINDLE
Э)
FOOT
TAILSTOCK
LOCK
12 rau srock
SPEED
:
:
Б
тоо!
REST
;
LOCK
BED 4 TOOL REST
BRACKET LOCK
O ом-оғғ
SWITCH
1 BELT GUARD HEADSTOCK FRONT OF TOOL
LOCK
1. BELT GUARD LOCK... Locks the hinged part of the 5. TOOL REST LOCK ... Clamp the tool rest to the tool
guard during operation. rest base.
2. INDEX РІМ... Engage with the spindle pulley to 6. TOOL REST BASE LOCK...Clamps the tool rest
determine equal spacing for cuts for fluting or reeding, base to the bed.
or for dividing face plate work. DO NOT USE FOR 7. HANDWHEEL . . . Adjusts the tailstock ram.
REMOVING
FACEPLATES.
"
s
SPINDLE
ШЕК
HOLE
кеке
d
nd
шоо
RAM
LOGE...
Gans
the
ram
inte
sanding
discs.
Insert
a
setscrew
wrench,
large
nail
or
>
bolt
in
the
hole
to
hold the
spindle
while
unscrewing
9.
TAILSTOCK
LOCK...
Clamps the
tailstock
to
the
faceplate
or
sanding
disc.
bed,
4.
TOOL
REST
BRACKET
LOCK
...
Clamps
the
tool
10.
ON-OFF
SWITCH
rest
bracket
to
the
bed.

[
getting to know your wood lathe
11. SPUR CENTER AND CUP CENTER ...are used for
spindle turning and should always be in alignment.
ALIGNING CENTERS
If the centers are not in line as shown, make the follow-
ing adjustments.
1. Make sure the tailstock and ram are locked when
checking for alignment.
| 2. Loosen the screw in the foot... ТАР the screw to hire rion s
loosen the locknut inside.
FOOT
| 3. Using a 3/16" setscrew wrench, loosen the setscrew Г
on the back of the headstock. The screw is located HEADSTOCK
about 1-3/4” from the bottom.
3/16"
4. Swing the tailstock so that the two points are in SETSCRENMI TAILSTOCK
| line . . . tighten the setscrew in the headstock and the а)
| screw in the end of the tailstock.
|
|
SCRÉW
sa
uH HANDWHEEL
|
|
|
|
12. TAILSTOCK ...supports the workpiece for spindle "Жы,
turning.
TAILSTOCK à Pl
The tailstock contains a brass screw which bears against Lock
the "key" on the underside of the bed. This screw pre-
vents excessive “looseness” (rocking back and forth) of
the tailstock.
1. Loosen the locknut using а 7/16” wrench.
2. Tighten the screw moderately against the key, then
loosen it about 1/4 turn.
Slide the tailstock along the bed. If it does not stick or
bind in any one spot, tighten the nut. If it binds or sticks, BRASS
loosen the screw only enough so that the tailstock slides SCREW LOCKNUT KEY
smoothly alongthe bed.
12

recommended
13. SPEED CHART... Indicates general
speeds for various sizes of workpieces.
WARNING: Always use lowest speed when starting a
new workpiece, using faceplate, or turning between
centers to avoid possible injury.
basic lathe operations
WARNING: For your own safety, turn switch “OFF”
and remove plug from power source outlet before
making any adjustments.
CHANGING SPEEDS
The belt is shown positioned on the second steps from
the outside end of the pulleys. This causes the lathe to
run 2250 R.P.M.
Suppose you wish to run the lathe slower - say, 1350
R.P.M. You must shift the belt inward.
1. Make sure the power cord is removed from the outlet.
2. With the belt guard raised, rotate the motor pulley
COUNTERCLOCKWISE with your left hand while
pushing on the belt with your right hand.
3. Continue to rotate the pulley while pushing on the
belt until it "climbs" down into the third step of the
motor pulley.
4. Now rotate the spindle pulley CLOCKWISE with your
right hand while pushing on the belt with your left
hand. The belt will climb up into the third step of the
spindle pulley.
To make the lathe go faster, the belt must be shifted out-
ward.
1. Rotate the spindle pulley CLOCKWISE with your
right hand. Pull on the belt while rotating the pulley
until it climbs down into the next smaller step.
2. Now rotate the motor pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE
with yourleft hand while pulling on the belt with your
right hand. The belt will climb up into the next larger
step.
SPINDLE SPEED
SPINDLE
RECOMMENDED GENERAL SPEE
SPINDLE TURNING
[ SQUARE [ LENGTH
| ROUGHING || FINISHING
FACE PLATE TURNING
DIAMETER | THICKNESS | ROUGHING || FINISHING
MAXIMUM MOTOR SIZE Y2 H.P. 1725 АРМ.
(SEE OWNER'S MANUAL)
13
ROTATE
COUNTERCLOCKWISE
MOTOR
PULLEY
SPINDLE
PULLEY

basic lathe operations
SPINDLE TURNING
WARNING: For your own safety, turn switch “OFF” and
remove switch key before mounting workpiece in Lathe.
If you have never done any amount of wood turning, we
suggest that you practice using the various wood turning
tools. Start with a small spindle turning.
Be sure to study the "HOW TO"' section of this manual. It
explains and illustrates the correct use of the turnings tools,
the positioning of the tool rest and other information to help
you gain experience.
1. Carefully inspect and select a piece of wood 2" x 2" x
12" and always use wood free of checks, splits, cracks
or knots.
2. Draw diagonal lines on each end to locate the centers.
З. On one end, make a saw cut approximately 1/16” deep DIAGONAL LINES
on each diagonal line. This is for the spur center. ON BOTH ENDS
4. The other end is for the cup center. Place the point of
the cut center on the wood where the diagonal lines
| cross.
5. Drive the cup center into the wood. Use a wooden
mallet or a plastic hammer. If you don't have one, use a
steel hammer, but put a piece of wood on the end of the
cup center to protect it.
6. Remove the cup center and drive the spur center into
| the other end of the wood. Make sure the spurs are in
| the saw cuts. Remove the spur center.
7. Make sure the centers and the hole in the spindle and
| the tailstock ram are clean. Insert the spur center into
| the headstock and the cup center into the tailstock and
tap them in lightly with a piece of wood. Do not drive
them in.
8. Put a drop of oil or wax on the wood where it contacts
the cup center. This will lubricate the wood while it is
turning.
9. Place the wood between the centers and lock the
tailstock.
WARNING: Be sure the spur center and cup center
are firmly seated against the workpiece and that the
tailstock is securely locked in place.
10. Move the cup center into the wood by turning the hand
wheel. Make sure that the cup center and spur center
are "seated" into the wood in the holes made in steps 5
апа 6 above. Rotate the wood by hand while turning the
hand wheel.
1/8“
11. Adjust the tool rest approximately 1/8" away from the
corners of the wood and 1/8" above the center line.
Note the angled position of the tool rest base. |
WARNING: For your own safety, after adjusting the
tool rest be sure and lock the tool rest base and the d
tool rest.
1/8“
TOOL REST WOOD
14

Look atthe speed chart. Notice that a 2" square turning
upto 18" long should run at 875 R.P.M. for “roughing”.
Move the V-belt on the pulleys to the slowest speed as
outlined under "Changing Speeds" section.
WARNING: For your own safety rotate the wood by
hand to make sure that the corners do not strike the
tool rest or anything else before turning the Lathe
“ON”. Always be sure the workpiece is properly
mounted and the Lathe is set at the proper speed
(RPM).
INDEXING
The spindle pulley contains 36 equally spaced holes. The
index pin engages with these holes to keep the spindle
from turning while you put a mark on the workpiece.
For example: To locate the position of six spokes in a
wheel:
T:
Pull the index pin outward and turn it so that the small
cross pin slips into the slot. This will allow the index
pin to engage in one of the holes in the pulley and pre-
vent the spindle from turning.
. Adjust the tool rest approximately at the centerline
and make a mark.
. Pull out the index pin and slowly rotate the workpiece
until the pin slides into the next hole in the pulley.
. Do this six times and put the next mark on the work-
piece. The two marks will be spaced 60? apart. Con-
tinue this operation until six spokes are marked 60°
apart.
. Spindle turnings can be divided in the same manner.

| GOUGE SKEW PARTING TOOL
SELECTION OF CHISELS
Better chisels have handles approximately 10-in. long, to
provide plenty of grip and leverage. Sharp tools are essential
for clean, easy work . . . buy tools that will take and hold
keen edges.
THEORY OF TURNING
22 22
| CUTTING CHISEL SCRAPING CHISEL
The Two Classes of Chisels
| These are: 1) Chisels intended primarily for cutting, and 2)
| chisels used only for scraping. The cutting chisels are the
gouge, skew and parting tool. These are the most used.
| They are commonly sharpened to a razor edge by honing on
both sides. The scraping chisels are the flatnose, round
nose and spear point. These are not honed on the flat sides
— the wire edges produced by grinding are left on to aid in
the scraping process.
Cutting and Scraping
То cut, the chisel is held so that the sharp edge actually digs
into the revolving work to peel off shavings. To scrape, the
chisel is held at a right angle to the work surface, and
removes fine particles instead of shavings. Many operations
require that the cutting chisels be used for scraping; but
scraping chisels are practically never used for cutting.
Scraping dulls a chisel much faster, especially the razor
sharp cutting chisels. Cutting is faster than scraping and
produces a smoother finish which requires less sanding.
However, it is far more difficult to master. Scraping, on the
other hand, is far more precise and easier to control.
CUTTING SCRAPING
2
d
SPEAR POINT
how to use your craftsman wood-lathe
WOODWORKING CHISELS AND HOW TO USE THEM
[4
^6!
а
FLAT NOSE ROUND NOSE
THE SIX COMMONLY USED CHISEL TYPES
When You Can Cut, and When You Must Scrape
There are two different approaches to the work when
turning. One approach is toward a circumference of the
workpiece (for example, turning down the outer surface of a
cylinder or the inner wall of a hollow round box.) In this
approach, the surface being turned travels under the chisel
edge like an endless belt. The second approach is toward
the diameter of a workpiece (as when turning the face of a
faceplate turning, or the side of a large shoulder on a
spindle turning). In this approach the surface being turned
rotates like a disc under the chisel edge. Sometimes the
approach will be a combination of both.
CIRCUMFERENCE
УМА
DIAMETER М 22
АРРВОАСН
Either a cutting or scraping action сап be used when the
approach is toward a circumference — the shaving is
removed like a peeling from a potato. Scraping, only, can be
used when the approach is toward a diameter. The reason
is obvious when you consider that faceplate turning practi-
cally always requires removal of wood across the grain.
Wood does not peel easily across the grain, and attempts to
use cutting methods will likely result in damage to the work
and throwing of the chisel by the work.
It follows that a cutting action is used for the general run of
spindle turning operations . . . while the major part of a
faceplate turning is done by the scraping method. When a
combination approach is to be used, you will have to judge,
by the feel of the work, when to stop cutting and start
scraping. Never try to cut when it becomes difficult to hold
the chisel against the roughness of the wood grain.
How to Position Tool Rest for Circumference Cutting
When cutting, the object is to pierce the outer skin of wood
to a certain desired depth, then to hold the chisel steady,
with the bevel edge parallel to the work circumference, so
that it will peel off a shaving at this desired depth. The only
sure method of holding the chisel steady is to rest the bevel
against the work, as shown in sketch 1. When the tool rest
is atthe proper height (sketch 1), the chisel can be held with
the bevel pressed against the work, and the tool rest will act
as a fulcrum to support the chisel against the downward
force of the revolving work.

STEADY 7 ЕОВСЕ 2 No support 3 4 Rest too
THRUST
GË
high
—
AGAINST KICKBACK ле“
HANDS 2.2 Rest |—— 9=== І
Be"
too
low.
chisel
ges too high
on work.
Rest too low;
chisel too horizontal.
cutting
properly.
HANDLE og d
KICKED UP DIAMETER
5 ¢ 7
Fest too distant — chisel too high,
point too far from rest.
If the rest is placed too low, so that the chisel is held with the does the scraping, sketches 9 and 10 show the results of too
bevel out from the work (sketch 2), the cutting edge will low or too high a position for the rest; and sketch 8 shows
continue to dig deeper into the work. It will dig in until the the chisel action with the rest correctly positioned.
"bite" becomes so deep that your hands have difficulty Е |
holding the chisel — then the improperly supported chisel How to Position Chisel and Rest for Diameter Scraping
will begin to bounce, or chatter, against the workpiece. When scraping on the diameter, that portion of surface to
If the rest is placed too low, the chisel must be held the right of center is moving upward (sketch 11). If chisel is
extremely high to position the bevel against the work placed in this area, it will simply be carried up off the rest
(sketch 3). Then the rest loses most of its value as a fulcrum, and out of your hands. All diameter approach operations
and the downward force of the revolving workpiece tends to must be done at the /eft of center.
kick the chisel back out of your hands. REL
If the rest is placed too high (sketch 4) and the chisel is
correctly positioned for cutting, it strikes the workpiece
near the top where the direction of force exerted by the
workpiece is nearly horizontal — and kickback will again
result.
If the rest is placed too far out from the work surface (sketch
5) — then, when correctly held, the chisel is again too high
onthe work. Also, you have less leverage on your side of the | 12
tool rest — and it is even more difficult to hold the chisel.
With large diameter work (sketch 6), the tool rest can be Three different chisel contact points are shown in sketch
above the workpiece centerline, and somewhat out from 12. It will be noted that, when chisel is above the workpiece
the work surface. With small diameter work (sketch 7), the center, or below it, the work surface sweeps past the chisel
rest should be lowered almost to the centerline, and should edge at an angle and tends to carry the chisel in one
not be far from the work surface. As work grows smaller, direction or the other along the rest. Only when the chisel
the rest should be repositioned. contacts the work on the centerline does the work surface
How to Position Tool Rest for Circumference Scraping pass squarely under the chisel edge. This, then, is the
А = An x osition in which it is easiest to hold the chisel steady. To
In scraping operations, the tool rest position is not as critical a AN se: ; А
as it ia for ding operations. The nivel generally is held obtain this position, place the rest approximately 1/8-inch
horizontally, though it can be held at an angle to reach into (thickness of chisel) below center.
tight places. Considering that the wire edge of the chisel USING THE GOUGE
8 9 10
EDGE
DIGGING
Three gouges, the 1/4-, 1/2- and 3/4-in. sizes, are ample
for general homeshop turning; but other sizes from 1/8- to
2-in. can be purchased.
The chief use of the gouge is for rough circumference
cutting of raw stock down to a cylinder of working size. It is
the best tool to use for rapid cutting away of large areas of
the workpiece; but when so used does not produce a
smooth surface. With practice, it can be used for cutting
coves and the shaping of long cuts — is also useful for
scraping.
NO
STOCK
REMOVED
CORRECT
17

how
to
use
your
craftsman
wood-lathe
CUTTING EDGE
ADVANCED
=
WRONG
When used for cutting, the gouge is always held with the
convex side down. It should be rolled approximately 30° to
45° in the direction in which it is being advanced along the
rest; and the cutting edge should be a little in advance of the
handle.
USING THE SKEW
Two skews, the 1/2- and 1-in. sizes, are all that are needed
for general use. Other sizes are available. This tool is nearly
always used to make finish cuts, to cut vees and beads, and
to square shoulders. Properly used, it produces the best
finish that can be obtained with a chisel. It should be used
but little for scraping, as this quickly dulls it.
wy
м.
Direction ma
м of cut.
PULL `" SWING NO YES
BACK TOOL
No
support Edge
does
SI not
cut.
USING TOE
For finish cutting, the skew is held with the cutting edge
considerably in advance of the handle, bevel side down.
Keep the base of the bevel against the work. Good practice
is to place the skew well over the work, pull it back until the
edge begins to cut, then swing the handle into position to
advance the cut. Both the toe and the heel of the skew can
be used for taking light cuts; but do not penetrate the wood
too deeply without cutting clearances, as there is danger of
burning the tip of the tool.
USING THE PARTING TOOL
The parting tool has just one primary purpose: to cut
straight into the workpiece as deep as desired, or all the way
through to make a cut-off. It is therefore a very narrow tool
— 1/8-in. wide — and is shaped to cut its own clearance so
that the edge will not be burned. When used for scraping,
however, it should be backed off regularly to prevent
overheating.
Unlike the gouge and skew, the parting tool is seldom held
with the bevel against the work. As the amount of stock
removed is small, a support for the bevel is not necessary.
USING ~ | Z
HEEL
18
SCRAPING
CUTTING
= m
The
tool
is
simply
fed
into
the
work
at
an
angle
(for
cutting),
or
pointed
at
the
workpiece
center
(for
scraping).
It
can
be
held
easily
in
one
hand.
USING THE SCRAPING CHISELS
A
1/2-in.
wide
spear
point
chisel,
a
1/2-in.
wide
round
nose
chisel,
and
a
1-in.
wide
flatnose
chisel
complete
the
list
of
tools
ordinarily
used
by
home
craftsmen.
Each
of
these
scraping
chisels
can
be
purchased
in
various
other
sizes
for
special
purposes.
All
are
very
useful
for
diameter
scraping
operations
and
for
circumference
scraping,
when
cutting
methods
cannot
be
employed.
SPEAR
ROUND
FLAT
POINT
NOSE
NOSE
The spear point is used for fine scraping and delicate
operations, such as the forming of beads, parallel grooves
and shallow vees. Edges and bowl contours can be rounded
with the round nose chisel. Any flat surface can be scraped
with the flatnose chisel.
USING SHAPER OR MOULDING KNIVES
An old chisel can be made to serve as a holder for shaper or
moulding knives. Such knives make it possible to scrape
many interesting shapes in the workpiece surface in one or
two operations, instead of the many operations required
with standard chisels. It is generally not practical to use
cutting methods with special shape tools; scraping methods
should be used. :
АА
b V
The
holder
should
provide
a
shoulder
against
which
the
butt
end
of
the
knife
can
be
firmly
seated;
and
the
knife
must
be
securely
mounted,
either
by
means
of
a
screw
threaded
into
the
holder,
or
by
compressing
it
between
two
prongs
bolted
together.

|
USING A BLOCK PLANE
Clear, glass-smooth finishes (especially on soft-woods) can
be obtained by using a block plane set to take a fine shaving.
Thetool rest should be raised up approximately to the top of
the workpiece — and the plane should be horizontal, but
turned slightly in the direction of travel so that it will take a
shearing cut. Two tool rests, one in front and the other
behind the work, can be used to advantage in positioning
the plane so as to exactly limit the depth of cut (and finished
size of the workpiece).
USING WOOD RASPS AND FILES
A wood rasp will remove stock quickly when held against
the revolving workpiece. Care should be taken to support
the rasp firmly against the tool rest, however, as it can tear
the hands painfully if caught by a rough edge of the
оне and kicked back. The rasp will leave a very rough
inish.
Finer finishes (similar to those produced by scraping) сап be
obtained by using files in the same manner. Various shape
files can be used for shaping vees, beads, coves, etc. If
pressed into the wood too hard, however, a file can burn the
workpiece surface. Keep the file clean to keep it cutting
uniformly. Files work best on hardwoods.
HAND POSITIONS
WARNING: Keep firm hold and control of the turning
tool at all times. Avoid awkward hand positions where a
sudden slip could cause a hand to move into the
workpiece.
In handling all of the chisels the handle hand takes a natural
position, being nearer or farther from the end depending
upon the amount of leverage required. The position of the
tool rest hand is a'matter of individual liking; but there are
three generally accepted positions, each best for certain
types of operations.
ROUGHING OFF
Roughing-off and other heavy work requires a firm grip and
solid positioning of the chisel against the rest. This is best
obtained by the tool-rest hand position illustrated. The wrist
is dropped down so that the heel of the hand below the little
finger acts as a sliding guide against the rest. The handle
hand controls chisel position.
FINISH CUTTING
Finish cutting requires more control, with less force — and
is better done with the palm of the tool-rest hand turned up.
The wrist is still held down, and the side of the index finger
acts as a guide along the rest. In this position, control of the
chisel is shared by both hands, the fingers of the tool-rest
hand being free to assist in positioning the tool.
INTRICATE CUTTING
Intricate, delicate cutting requires extreme control, with
practically no force. This is best accomplished by guiding
the chisel with the fingers of the tool-rest hand. The hand 15
held palm up, with the wrist high — with the little finger
placed against the rest to steady the hand. The chisel does
not touch the rest; and the handle hand is completely
secondary to the tool-rest hand.
The first and second positions are equally good for scraping
operations; but the third position is practically never used
for scraping.
CUTTING
TO DEPTH
Many scraping operations and cutting to depth with the
parting tool can be done with one hand. The chisel is
grasped firmly, with the index finger on top to press it down
against the rest — and is thrust straight into the work.
Holding the tool thus leaves the other hand free to hold a
pattern, calipers, etc., to check work progress.

how to use your craftsman wood-lathe
MAKING STANDARD CUTS
THE ROUGHING-OFF CUT
Reducing a square or odd-shaped workpiece down to a
cylinder of approximate size for finish turning is called
roughing-off. Faceplate turning and large diameter spindles
should first be partly reduced by sawing but small spindles
are easily turned down entirely with the large (3/4-in.)
gouge.
Start the first cut about 2-in. from tailstock end — then run
it toward the tailstock and off the end of the workpiece.
Next, start another cut 2-in. nearer the headstock — and
run it, also, toward tailstock, to merge with first cut.
Continue in this manner until 2- to 4-in. from the headstock
end, then reverse the direction of tool travel and work one or
two cuts in succession toward the headstock, and off this
end of the workpiece. Never start a cut directly at the end
—if the chisel catches the end, it will damage the workpiece.
Never take long cuts while corners remain on the work, as
this tends to tear long slivers from the corners.
The first series of cuts should not Бе too deep. It is better to
partially reduce the work to a cylinder all along its length;
then start a second series of cuts to complete reducing it to
a cylinder. Once cylinder has been formed, step lathe up to
the next faster speed. Further reductions in size сап now be
carried out by cutting as deeply as desired at any spot along
the work. At this stage, long cuts, from the center off either
end, can also be taken. Roughing-off generally is continued
until the cylinder is approximately 1/8-in larger than the
desired finish size. Roundness can be tested by laying the
gouge on top of the work — it will not ride up and down
when cylinder is perfectly round.
FIRSTCUTS
ROUGH-CUTTING TO SIZE
The roughing-off cut can be made to accurately size the
cylinder to a given diameter.
Another method is to make a number of sizing cuts at
intervals along the work, then use the gouge to reduce the
whole cylinder down to the diameter indicated by these
cuts.
ASIZING CUT
MAKING SIZING CUTS
Sizing cuts are useful to establish approximate finish-size
diameters at various points along a workpiece. The work
can then be turned down to the diameters indicated — and
be ready for finishing. Diameters for sizing cuts should be
planned to be about 1/8-in. greater than the desired finish
diameters.
A sizing cut is made with the parting tool. Hold the tool in
one hand, and use the other hand to hold an outside caliper
preset to the desired sizing-cut diameter. As the cut nears
completion, lower the chisel point more and more into a
scraping position. When the calipers slip over the workpiece
at the cut, the cut is finished.
SMOOTHING A CYLINDER
The final 1/8-in. can be removed in two ways. Either use
the 1-in. skew, working from center toward both ends and
taking lighter and lighter cuts until finished.
CUTTING A SHOULDER
A shoulder can be the side of a square portion left in the
workpiece, the side of a turned section, or the end of the
workpiece. Most shoulders are perpendicular to work axis;
but a shoulder can be at any angle desired.
PARTING
TOOL
PENCIL
MARK