Team Losi l8ight Quick start guide

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The rst thing you need to understand about chassis tuning is that there is no “magic” setup that will make you a world class driver.
Also one driver’s best chassis setup may very well be the worst setup for another driver. Chassis setup is not dictated by ability or
experience but rather comfort level and what is commonly referred to as balance. This simply means that there is no one handling
characteristic that is either exaggerated or minimized to the point where you are forced to overdrive to compensate for it. A prime
example is making a change to gain low speed steering but nding that the high-speed steering is so sensitive that the car is
extremely unstable and hard to drive. Our goal is to give you the information on how to use the parts we have made available for you
to tune the chassis so you are comfortable driving it ….. FAST!
© Team Losi, A Division of Horizon Hobby, Inc
800-0378
L8IGHT Model Tuning Guide

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What to Adjust
When making chassis changes, you should rst decide where you feel the car needs to be dierent. This is commonly referred to as
changing the balance.”The L8IGHT comes out of the box with a relatively neutral set-up that favors neither the front nor the rear of
the model. This has been found to be easy to drive with great condence that the chassis will not do anything odd or unexpected. To
ne tune this or any setup you must rst decide if the front of the car needs to be adjusted or the back. You will want to work with the
rear of the chassis if the car enters the turn with the front end sticking, and tracking well, while the rear end either does not want to
follow, or simply doesn’t know what it wants to do. The opposite is true if the rear end seems to want to push the front end through
the corners preventing it from steering or if the front drives into the corner uncontrollably with so much steering and extreme reaction
that it is hard to control comfortably. As you will see there are several dierent adjustments that have similar eects on the handling.
You will nd the best adjustment will become a personal decision based on the “feel” that each of these adjustments yield. This also
reects on the “balance”referred to earlier. So the key is to try these dierent adjustments and learn what makes the car drive and
feel the best to you. Also don’t be surprised that after you become comfortable with a setup you nd that in time you are capable and
comfortable with a more aggressive setup. No matter what you decide to adjust never make more than one change at a time. If the
change you made works adversely, or doesn’t address your need, return to the previous position and try something else.
If You Get Lost
The development team has put hundreds of hours on the L8IGHT to arrive at the setup we put on the Race Roller. Think of this as
your base setup or “home”. If you get baed with your tuning and nd that you have lost the“handle”go back to “home” and your
base setup, as this will give you a comfortable handling chassis that you know to be reliable, consistent, and easy to drive. All of us at
Losi are sure that you will nd the L8IGHT Oval Racer to be the most versatile and easiest car to drive fast, with great consistency. The
specic information in this guide will help you to enjoy your L8IGHT, and racing it with the ability to make the changes needed to suit
both track conditions and your driving capabilities. Also don’t forget to check for the latest in setup and accessory parts information
by visiting the Losi web site at: www.losi.com regularly. Also note that there are many ways to setup a car. The rules we follow can work
inversely sometimes with dierent driving styles or dierent setup styles, so test for yourself and you will nd a setup that works right
for you and always remember that if you get lost you can always go “home”to your base setup.
Chassis Adjustments
Sway Bars are a exible connection between the right and left side of the suspension. They are used to keep the chassis at and
minimize excessive weight transfer and chassis roll. Losi provides sway bars in sets of three dierent thicknesses (LOSA1750) for both
the front and rear of the L8IGHT.
Front Sway Bars: The three front sway bars (Photo1) are .080in/2mm (light), .091in/2.3mm (medium), and .105in/2.66 (heavy). A lighter
front sway bar increases front traction o-power, but has less on-power steering. A heavier front sway bar decreases o-power front
traction making for smoother and more predictable steering when entering the turn, but oers more on-power steering on exit.
Rear Sway Bars: The three rear sway bars (Photo 2) are .092in/2.3mm (light), .1055in/2.6mm (medium), and .1205in/3mm (heavy). A
lighter rear sway bar tends to increase rear traction but decreases on-power steering. A heavier rear sway bar increases stability in the
middle of the turn and increases on-power steering. Heavier sway bars are also more stable on high speed, high-traction tracks.
Toe-In/Out is the relationship of the tires to one another. Toe-in is when the tires point inward (Photo 3), as they face forward and toe-
out is when the tires point outward (Photo 4).
Front Toe-In: (longer steering rods) decreases steering response entering and in the middle of the turn. This also increases on-power
steering at exit and may cause loss of rear traction.
Front Toe-Out: (shorter steering rods) increases steering response when entering the turn and increases straight line stability. Toe out
will also decrease on-power steering giving the car more forward traction.
Rear Toe-In: More rear toe-in increases forward traction and stability on-power and produces more o-power steering and less side
bite. Less rear toe-in: will increase the wheel base of the model and increase the top speed, on-power steering and side bite in the
middle of a turn. It will also decrease forward traction and stability under acceleration. You will never want to run rear toe-out.
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Rear Squat/Anti-Squat (photo 5), is the result of suspension geometry that mechanically allows the rear of the chassis to dip under
acceleration (squat) or ght the tendency to do so (anti-squat) and actually rise on acceleration. This can be changed using the pivot
pin supports. The L8IGHT Race Roller comes with two degrees of anti-squat.
Less Anti-Squat: will produce less o-power steering and allow the chassis to roll (side to side)
more across the rear. Less anti-squat will also tend to loosen up the rear under acceleration on
the oval.
More Anti-Squat: will produce more roll resistance (side to side), increase steering in the middle
of the turn and have better rear traction under acceleration.
NOTE: Besides using the xed rear pivot mounts (LOSA1746, 1747 & 1748) to alter the anti-squat
and toe-in the more advanced oval tuners will want to try the LOSA1754 front and LOSA 1755
rear independently adjustable pivot mounts so that dierent settings can be made from one side
to the other just like the full size race chassis.
Camber: (photo 6), is the attitude of the wheel and tire in relation to the ground or at surface.
As seen in the photo this can be measured using the LOSI LOSA99172 Camber Gauge a fuel can
or similar item that stands upright next to the tire. If the tire leans in at the top it has negative
camber, and if it leans out at the top it has positive camber. The camber link controls the position
of the wheel and tire as it moves up and down through its suspension travel. Camber has a
tremendous eect on how the tires react and provide grip on the surface you are running on.
Front Camber Links: More front negative camber on the outside (right) wheel produces more steering and is more responsive. Less
front negative camber will have less steering but will be smoother. To a point more front positive camber on the inside (left) wheel
will give better steering into and out of a turn. Less positive camber will similarly smooth out the steering but be less responsive. The
lower camber link location on the shock tower (photo 7), (Hole #4 as seen on the setup sheet) has more camber gain which is the total
camber change through the suspension travel. Running the camber link in the lower hole will increase o-power steering and make
the vehicle more aggressive - however you may lose some consistency. More camber gain is good on small tight tracks. We have found
that running less camber gain in the front suits the car the best for consistency and steering balance. A longer front camber link (photo
8), (hole #2 as seen on the setup sheet) will make the L8IGHT feel stier. This will keep the chassis atter with less roll and increase
high-speed steering. A short front camber link (photo 8), (hole # 3 as seen on the setup sheet) will allow more chassis roll and make the
vehicle more aggressive but lack steering under acceleration. If the front link is made too short it may make the vehicle feel twitchy.
Rear Camber Links: More rear negative camber will have less rear traction, but will increase on-power steering. Less rear negative
camber will have more rear traction and make the rear of the L8IGHT stay atter, but if traction is lost it will be more violent. You will
notice that the L8IGHT uses positive left side camber and negative right side camber to provide optimum traction. The lower camber
link locations on the shock tower (#4 & #5 as seen on the setup sheet), have more camber gain. Running the camber link in the lower
holes on the shock tower will increase corner speed and allow the buggy to sit on the rear more when on throttle. The upper camber
link locations work better on high traction surfaces and improve stability. Using a longer rear camber link (photo 10), (#1 as seen on
the setup sheet), will have less roll and improve stability and traction. A shorter rear camber link (example: position #3 or #8, as seen on
the setup sheet) will allow more chassis roll and increase steering on entry but will also loosen up the rear and may make it unstable.
Running in the A or B position (as seen in the setup sheet) in the rear hub will generate more corner rotation entering the turn
allowing the car to turn into the turn easier and increase steering on exit. Running in the C or D position in the hub will be more stable
entering the turn but still increase the steering on exit.
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Ride Height: is the level of the chassis above the track surface as it sits on its suspension. As the chassis sits on a at surface measure
up to the bottom face of the chassis. The LOSI LOSA99173 Ride Height Gauge is ideal for accurately setting and measuring this. For
your base line you will want to adjust the front of the chassis with 20mm of ride height and 20mm in the rear. We have found the
L8IGHT handles best when the front ride height is 1mm to 2mm lower and no more than level with the rear of the chassis.
Shock Pistons: Shock pistons are available and marked with dierent size holes that control the ow of the shock uid as it moves up
and down with the suspension movement. If you look closely you will see the hole size (54, 55, 56) molded into the pistons. Note that
the larger the number the smaller the hole size. Using pistons with smaller holes (#56) provides stier damping, slower weight transfer,
and slower response. Pistons with larger holes (#55 & #54) provide softer damping, increased traction, quicker weight transfer and
response.
Shock Fluid: is graded by its viscosity or thickness. Lighter uids are lower numbers like 20 and 25
weights while heavier uids are larger numbers like 35 to 50 weights. Lighter shock uid will give more
overall traction and allows quicker response to suspension movement but also has a tendency to allow
too much chassis roll in the corners. Heavier uids have less overall traction and react slower but on
high bite and smooth tracks, heavier uid tends to be easier to drive. Heat makes shock uids lighter
and cold makes them heavier. Make sure you adjust shock uid when there is a drastic temperature
change (20-25 degrees) to maintain the same dampening. If it gets cold you will need to go to a lighter
weight shock uid. If it gets hotter you will need to go to heavier weight shock uid.
Droop: is the amount of suspension downward travel from ride
height. Always measure the droop of the L8IGHT with the shocks
on the model. Measure from the center of the top shock mount
to the center of the bottom shock screw, (photo 12). More droop
(travel) in the front will have more on-power steering and allow
the L8IGHT to roll more across the rear when on throttle. More rear
droop will increase o-power steering and allow the chassis to roll
over on the front while o-power.
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Springs: In general, running softer springs will produce more traction until you get so soft that the chassis rolls over to the point
where there is no suspension left and it starts to slide the tires. A softer front spring will usually produce more steering while a rmer
spring will tend to decrease steering response. Soft rear springs are better on very slick tracks but as the traction increases so must the
spring rate.
Shock mounting positions:
Leaning the shocks inward on the shock tower produces softer initial damping and is more
forgiving. Moving the shocks out on the shock tower makes the car more responsive and is
better for tight tracks where you need quicker steering reaction.
Wheelbase: A shorter wheelbase (spacers behind
the rear hubs, photo 16), increases on-power
traction, rear weight transfer, and has more
o-power steering. The shorter wheelbase is
better on tight or slick tracks. A longer wheelbase
(spacers in front of the rear hubs, photo 17),
decreases o-power steering. The longer
wheelbase tends to be more stable and has more
on-power steering.
Dierentials:
Dierential Fluids are just like shock uids in that the larger the number the thicker/heavier the
uid.
Front: Thinner/lighter uid in the front dierential increases o-power steering but decreases
steering and acceleration exiting the turn. You must be careful not to go too light as the
steering will become grabby and inconsistent. If you experience this go at least one step
heavier. Although lighter uid will have a little better steering entering a corner it will have
less acceleration on exit. In general, thicker/heavier front dierential uid increases o-power
stability and increases on-power steering.
Center: Using thinner/lighter uid in the center dierential tends to make the model easier to drive on rough and slick tracks but
allows it to unload easier under acceleration and provides less forward drive. Thicker/heavier center dierential uids oer better
acceleration, increased on-power steering and less o-power steering. In general, using thicker center dierential uid is better on
high bite and smooth oval tracks.
Rear: Using thinner/lighter uid in the rear dierential provides more cornering traction and increases steering response in the middle
of the turn. Thicker/heavier uids in the rear dierential provide less steering in the middle of the turn but greater forward traction.
Ackerman: This is the name given to the type of geometry needed to maintain the dierence in the angles of the inside and outside
wheels necessary for each front tire to maintain the proper turning radius. Since the inside tire must run a smaller radius than the
outside tire this is critical. The Long Ackerman plate will have smoother steering and is generally more forgiving.
The Short Ackerman plate produces a quicker reaction and steering response and has more steering in the middle of the turn. The
short Ackerman plate would be better suited for tight tracks.
Bump Steer: is the side-to-side movement of the front wheels that can be caused by the suspension moving up and down.
Down: Running the bump steer ball in the“down” position (photo 19), will produce smoother steering in the middle of the turn.
Up: Running the bump steer ball in the “up” position (photo 20), will increase the steering in the middle of the turn.
Short Long
IN
OUT
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Softer Springs: Engage the clutch at a lower rpm and provide a smoother power band but often less vigorous acceleration. If the
engine doesn’t have enough low-end power try running more preload (the same size spring with more angle) or a stier (thicker wire
size) spring.
Stier springs: engage at a higher rpm and allow the car to launch harder but this is often accompanied by wheel spin and
momentary loss of traction. You should also be careful not to go too sti with the clutch springs as this can cause the clutch to slip and
prematurely wear out the clutch shoes.
Clutch Shoes: The L8IGHT is equipped with two aluminum shoes that allow smooth progressive clutch engagement. Two composite
shoes are included for your tuning as note. Both composite and aluminum clutch shoes are available for use in the 8IGHT 4-shoe
clutch. Two of each of these are usually best for tuning and wear characteristics but both can be used seperately or in fours. If the
track surface is very loose or rough we have found that four plastic shoes will allow more slip and smoother acceleration. Running all
four aluminum clutch shoes will have the quickest and hardest hitting clutch action with the most punch. This isn’t as good on slick or
rough tracks where you need a longer smoother clutch engagement with less wheel spin.
Gearing: The stock gearing for the 8IGHT is 14/48 which is a good all-around ratio for acceleration and top speed. If you are running
on a smaller track or need more low-end power/acceleration, a 13-tooth clutch bell is recommended but be aware that although the
acceleration increases the top speed will be less. Similarly, if you are running on a longer track with sweeping corners you may want to
try using a 15-tooth clutch bell for added speed without over-revving the engine. Be very careful not to over-gear the engine as it will
cause poor acceleration, overheating and prematurely wear out the clutch shoes and bearings.
Brake Setup:
The standard suggested brake bias for the 8IGHT is 60% rear - 40% front. If you need the model to rotate more under braking, adjust
the linkage for less front brake and more rear brake. If the L8IGHT is loose entering turns under braking, adjust the linkage for less rear
brake or more front brake.
Outdrives and Traction:
When your 8IGHT is new it will have more chassis roll and be a little loose on throttle due to the lack of friction in the outdrives and
crossbones. After about 45-60 minutes of running, these parts wear into each other and the 8IGHT will gain traction and stability.
Replacing worn out outdrives and crossbones with new parts will provide more corner speed.
Clutch:
The 4 shoe clutch system is far advanced over the norm allowing much greater tuning with
easily made changes. This includes both the clutch shoes and the clutch springs. (Photo 21)
Springs: You have four dierent color coded clutch springs to choose from. As seen in the table
the softest are the .036in “Black”and slightly harder “Green” springs that have more preload
(angle). The harder springs are the .040in “Gold” and hardest “Silver”(more angle).
Clutch spring table
LOSA9112 .036in Black - Soft
LOSA9113 .036in Green – Medium (Soft with more preload)
LOSA9114 .040in Gold - Hard
LOSA9114 .040in Silver - Hardest (Hard with more preload)
2019
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Down Up

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543
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Upper
Lower
Outside Inside
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D C B A
Lower
Upper
Outer Inner
432
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98 10
L8IGHT KIT
2 Degrees Out
20mm
(L) +3 Degrees (R) -2 Degrees
Stock
2.0mm
56/50wt
2.3-inch Gray
87mm
Long
Down
#1/Outside Carrier
#5 Upper/Outside Arm
50,000
3 Degree
2 Degree
21mm
(L) +1.5 Degree (R) -1.5 Degree
All Spacers In Front
2.3mm
56/40wt
2.3-inch White
94mm
#1/C
#5 Upper/Outside Arm
10,000
10-01-08
General Oval
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
125,000

8
543
2
1
Upper
Lower
Outside Inside
5
D C B A
Lower
Upper
Outer Inner
432
1
5
67
1
3
42
23 1
5 4
7 6
98 10