Tower Hobbies UPROAR User manual

WARRANTY
Tower Hobbies®guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty
does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shallTower Hobbies’ liability exceed the original
cost of the purchased kit. Further, Tower Hobbies reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Tower Hobbies has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.By the act of using the user-assembled
product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax
number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package
the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
© Copyright 2004 V 1.0 TOWZ1157 for TOWA2054
Tower Hobbies
P.O. Box 9078
Champaign, IL 61826
[phone]
www.towerhobbies.com
Wingspan: 48 in [1,220mm]
Wing Area: 618 sq in [39.9 dm2]
Weight: 4 lbs [1,810 g] Length: 44 in [1,120mm]
Wing Loading: 15 oz/sq ft [46 g/dm2]
Engine: .32 – .46 cu in [5.0 – 7.5 cc] two-stroke,
.40 – .52 cu in [6.5 – 8.5 cc] four-stroke
Radio: 4-channel, 5 standard servos
®
®

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ........................................................................2
AMA............................................................................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS...........................................................2
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED..............................................3
HARDWARE & ACCESSORIES..........................................3
ADHESIVES & BUILDING SUPPLIES................................3
OPTIONAL SUPPLIES & TOOLS........................................3
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES...............................................3
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS.....................................................4
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS .......................................4
METRIC/INCH RULER...............................................................4
KIT INSPECTION.......................................................................5
KIT CONTENTS .........................................................................5
ASSEMBLY ................................................................................6
PREPARATION....................................................................6
JOIN THE WING TO THE FUSELAGE................................6
JOIN THE STABILIZER TO THE FIN...................................7
GLUE IN THE HINGES......................................................10
MOUNT THE ENGINE.......................................................11
INSTALL THE PUSHRODS ...............................................12
HOOK UP THE CONTROLS.............................................12
MOUNT THE LANDING GEAR .........................................12
INSTALL THE FUEL TANK ................................................14
FINISH RADIO INSTALLATION.........................................15
MOUNT THE CANOPY......................................................15
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY..........................................16
CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS ............................16
SET THE CONTROL THROWS.........................................16
BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)..........................................16
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY................................17
PREFLIGHT..............................................................................17
IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL..................................................17
CHARGE THE BATTERIES...............................................17
BALANCE THE PROPELLERS.........................................17
GROUND CHECK..............................................................18
RANGE CHECK.................................................................18
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..........................................18
AMA SAFETY CODE...............................................................18
CHECK LIST ............................................................................19
FLYING.....................................................................................19
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Tower Hobbies Uproar™40
ARF.The Uproar 40 ARF is great for pilots who are ready to
graduate from their trainer and take the next step with their
first aerobatic sport model.The Uproar 40 ARF is also great
for experienced pilots who just want something quick and
simple to get together for a care-free day at the field. The
Uproar’s small size, light weight and one-piece construction
make transporting it to the field quick and easy so you’ll be
in the air in no time.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 ARF visit the Tower Hobbies web
site at www.towerhobbies.com .Open the “Airplanes”link, then
select the Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 ARF. If there is new
technical information or changes to this model a “tech notice”
box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
AMA
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is the
governing body of model aviation and membership is
required to fly at AMA clubs. Though joining the AMA
provides many benefits, one of the primary reasons to join
is liability protection. Coverage is not limited to flying at
contests or on the club field. It even applies to flying at
public demonstrations and air shows.Failure to comply with
the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of the
manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
sites to help you get started the right way. There are over
2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can
do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to
avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or
over groups of people.
PROTECTYOUR MODEL,YOURSELF &
OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 ARF should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model
that functions very much like a full-size airplane.Because of
its performance capabilities, the Uproar 40 ARF, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.
3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5.You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: [phone]
Fax [phone]
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
2

6.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your
first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
8.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying,
such as racing, the modeler is responsible for taking steps
to reinforce the high stress points.
Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
HARDWARE & ACCESSORIES
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to
finish the Uproar 40 ARF. Order numbers are provided in
parentheses.
❍4-channel radio with five standard servos
❍Engine (see manual cover for size recommendations)
❍Propeller and spare propellers suitable for your engine
❍Y-harness (FUTM4130 for Futaba®)
❍1/4" [6mm] R/C foam rubber (HCAQ1000)
❍3' [900mm] Standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
❍2-1/4" [55mm] White spinner (GPMQ4515)
ADHESIVES & BUILDING SUPPLIES
In addition to common household tools and hobby tools,
this is the “short list” of the most important items required to
assemble the Uproar 40 ARF. Tower Hobbies Build-it™CA
and Epoxy glue are recommended.
❍1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
❍1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❍Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❍Threadlocker™thread locking cement (GPMR6060)
❍Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 1/8" [3.2mm],
3/16" [4.87mm]
❍Small metal file
❍Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)
❍#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❍#11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❍#11 blades (100-pack, HCAR0311)
OPTIONAL SUPPLIES & TOOLS
Here is a list of optional items mentioned in the manual that
will help you assemble the Uproar40 ARF.
❍Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❍R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❍CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❍CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❍3M 75 Repositionable spray adhesive (MMMR1900)
❍Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❍1/8" [3.2mm] Brass tube (for cutting balsa)
❍Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❍Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❍Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❍Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts
(HCAR0667)
❍Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❍Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❍K & S #801 Kevlar®thread (for stab alignment, K+SR4575)
❍Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)
❍Dead Center™Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
❍AccuThrow™Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)
❍CG Machine™(GPMR2400)
❍Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™(TOPQ5700)
❍Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❍Iron cover (TOPR2175)
❍Trim sealing iron (TOPR2200)
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or
custom fit the part as necessary for the best fit.
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a
specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it;therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee
the performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
3

• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check
these measurements anyway. To view this information visit
the web site at www.towerhobbies.com and click on
“Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing tolerances which
will have little or no effect on the way your model will fly,
please expect slight deviations between your model and the
published values.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
Fuse = Fuselage
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Vertical Fin
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
" = Inches
mm = millimeters
4
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Uproar 40 ARF are available from Tower Hobbies or Hobby Services using the order numbers
in the Replacement Parts List that follows. Contact Tower at www.towerhobbies.com , or call toll free [phone].
Contact Hobby Services by calling [phone], or via facsimile at [phone]. If ordering via fax, include a Visa
or MasterCard number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in the Replacement Parts List.Payment by credit card or personal
check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact Product Support by e-mail at [e-mail] ,
or by telephone at [phone].
Replacement Parts List
Order Number Description How to Purchase
Missing pieces.......................Contact Product Support
Instruction manual.................Contact Product Support
Full-size plans........................Not available
TOWA2165 Wing Set
TOWA2166 Fuselage
TOWA2167 Tail Set
TOWA2168 Canopy
TOWA2169 Landing Gear
TOWA2170 Tail Wheel Assembly
................ Contact Your Hobby
Supplier to Purchase
These Items
To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4

5
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality.If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in
the Kit Contents list on this page.
Tower Hobbies Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: [phone], ext. 5
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [e-mail]
Kit Contents
1. Fuselage, Radio Hatch,
Fuel Tank Hatch
2. Horizontal Stab
3. Elevators
4. Fin
5. Rudder
6. Main Landing Gear Wire
7. Main Wheels
8. Fuel Tank
9. Elevator Joiner Wire
10. Canopy
11. Ailerons
12. Wing
Kit Contents (not photographed)
Engine Mount
Plastic Tail Wheel Collar
Throttle Pushrod (with Z-bend)
Pushrod Guide Tube
24" [610mm] Elevator and Rudder
Pushrods
(2) 6" [150mm] Aileron Pushrods
1.5mm Allen Wrench
Tail Gear Wire
Tail Wheel
Nylon Hardware:
(17) CA Hinges
(4) Control Horns
(4) Clevises
(4) 90° Pushrod Connectors
(4) Landing Gear Straps
(4) Silicone Clevis Retainers
Nuts/Bolts:
(4) 4 x 20mm Machine Screws
(4) 3.5 x 20mm Wood Screws
(8) 2 x 15mm Machine Screws
(26) 2 x 8mm Wood Screws
(4) 4mm Blind Nuts
(5) 3mm Set Screws
(4) Wheel Collars
(1) Pushrod Connector with Thumb Nut
(1) 2mm Washer
1
2
45
6
3
9
8
11
12
710

ASSEMBLY
PREPARATION
❍ 1. Use a covering iron set on medium heat (about 250°F
[120°C]) with a protective covering sock to remove any
wrinkles in the covering and make sure the covering is
bonded to the wood structure underneath.
❍ 2. Use a hobby knife with a sharp #11 blade to cut the
covering from the fuselage over the openings for the wing,
tail surfaces and for the pushrod tubes on both sides of the
fuselage.Remove the small balsa block. Suggestion: Keep
the larger pieces of covering cut out from the wing opening
in case patches are ever required in the future.
JOIN THE WING TO THE FUSELAGE
❍ 1. Slide the wing into the fuselage. Take accurate
measurements to center the wing from side-to-side.
Read the next two steps before proceeding so you will
understand the process.
❍ 2. Stick a T-pin through the center of the top of the
fuselage at the rear. Tie a loop in one end of a 36" [1m]
piece of non-elastic string such as monofilament or Kevlar
line (K+SR4575). Slip the loop in the string over the T-pin.
❍ 3. Fold a piece of masking tape over the string near the
other end and draw an arrow on it. Slide the tape along the
string and align the arrow with one end of the wing as shown
in the photo. Swing the string over to the same position on
the other end of the wing. Pivot the wing and slide the tape
along the string until the arrow aligns with both ends of the
wing. Make sure the wing remains centered from side-to-
side throughout the process.
❍ 4. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen such as a Top Flite®Panel
Line Pen (TOPQ2510) to mark the outline of the fuselage all
the way around both sides of the wing.
Note: The top of the fuselage is the side with the fuel
tank hatch. The bottom of the fuselage is the side with
the radio hatch under the wing opening. Be certain you
don’t inadvertently install the wing upside-down.
6

❍ 5. Before removing the wing, use a short piece of wire or
something similar to mark the location of the hole in the
former for the throttle pushrod guide tube onto the leading
edge of the wing. Remove the wing from the fuselage and
drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole through the wing at the mark.
❍ 6.Use a single-edge razor blade, a sharp, new #11 blade or
follow the Expert Tip below to cut the covering from the wing
along the lines. Use care to cut only into the covering and not
into the wood.Cutting into the balsa will weaken the structure.
❍ 7.Lay two or three paper towels on top of each other.Cut
them into small squares. These small paper towel squares
will come in handy for wiping away excess ink, epoxy and
CA throughout the assembly process.
❍ 8. Remove any ink with one of your small paper towel
squares lightly dampened with denatured alcohol–wipe
away from the seam–otherwise the ink will bleed under the
covering. Peel the covering from the wing. Re-seal the
covering to the wing where it may have lifted.
❍ 9. Slide the wing into the fuselage. Mix approximately 1/4
oz.of 30-minute epoxy. Use a piece of wire or a small dowel
to apply the epoxy all the way around the wing where it joins
the fuselage. Move the wing from side-to-side to work the
epoxy into the joint.Center the wing using the pin and string,
then wipe away excess epoxy. Check the wing alignment
once more. Do not disturb until the epoxy has hardened.
JOIN THE STABILIZER TO THE FIN
❍ 1. Position the elevators against the stab with the tips
aligned. Center the joiner wire over the elevators and mark
the ends of the wire on the elevators.
How to cut covering from balsa.
To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering iron
guided by a straightedge to cut the covering. The tip of
the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine tip
does work best. Move the soldering iron at a rate that will
melt through the covering without burning the wood.The
hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a
fine cut without burning any wood.
7

❍ 2.Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole in both elevators for the joiner wire.
❍ 3. Use a 1/8" [3.2mm] brass tube sharpened on the end
as shown in the following Expert Tip or a hobby knife to cut
out the elevators to accommodate the joiner wire.
❍ 4. Test fit the joiner wire into the elevators. Lay the
assembly on your flat workbench. See if the elevators are
parallel with each other. If necessary, remove the joiner wire
and use pliers to bend the wire as necessary until you can
get the elevators to lie flat. Set the elevators and the joiner
wire aside.
❍ 5. Cut the covering from the top and bottom of the stab
over the slot.
2.Sharpen the inside of the tube with a hobby knife.Now
you have a sharp tube that will easily cut balsa.
How to sharpen a brass tube for cutting balsa.
1. Sharpen the outside of the tube with a cutoff wheel or
a metal file.
8

❍ 6. Slide the stab into the fuselage, then key it into position
with the vertical stabilizer (from now on referred to as the “fin”).
❍ 7. Stand behind the model and view the alignment of the
stab and wing. The stab should be parallel with the wing. If
the stab is not parallel with the wing, place a small weight
on the “high side”of the stab to get it into alignment.If a little
bit of weight isn’t enough, remove the fin and stab from the
fuselage and carefully sand the saddle as necessary to get
the stab into alignment with the wing.
❍ 8. Once you have achieved stab alignment, use the pin-
and-string technique to center the stab the same way you
did the wing, only this time stick the T-pin through the top of
the firewall over the centerline.
❍ 9.Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the top and bottom
of the stab around both sides of the fuselage.Also mark the
outline of the front of the fin on the top of the fuselage.
❍ 10. Remove the fin and stab, carefully cut the covering
from the stab and the top of the fuselage. Wipe away any
residual ink.
❍ 11. Securely glue the stab into position with 30-minute
epoxy.Temporarily install the fin to help center the stab and
use the pin and string for alignment. Also make certain the
stab is parallel with the wing. Remove the fin so you do not
inadvertently glue it into position and wipe away excess
epoxy before it hardens.
❍ 12. Cut the covering from the bottom of both sides of the
fin as shown in the photo.
❍ 13. After the epoxy from the stab has hardened, glue in
the fin. Use a builder’s square to make certain the fin is
perpendicular to the stab. If necessary, use tape to pull the
tip of the fin to one side or the other.
9

GLUE IN THE HINGES
Start with the left aileron.
❍❍ 1. Stick a T-pin through the middle of four CA hinges.
Insert the hinges into the left aileron. The T-pins will keep the
hinges centered. If any of the hinges are too tight or don’t go
in all the way, remove the hinge and use a #11 blade to widen
and/or deepen the slots. The hinges should fit snug, but not
with so much resistance that they are difficult to insert.
❍❍ 2. Join the aileron to the wing with the hinges.Take out
the T-pins. Adjust the aileron so there is a small gap–just
enough to see light through or to slip a piece of paper
through. Carefully add six drops of thin CA to the top and
bottom of all four hinges. Proceed slowly, waiting a few
seconds between drops to allow the CA to soak in–otherwise,
excess CA will run into the hinge gap. If you do get any CA in
the gap, use one of your paper towel squares to quickly
absorb the CA before it hardens. Hint: A small CA applicator
tip like the one in the photo (HCAR3780) will allow you to
pinpoint your drops of CA.
❍ 3. Join the right aileron to the wing the same way.
❍ 4. Secure the tail wheel to the tail gear wire by pressing
on the plastic collar.
❍ 5. Use a small razor saw or a hobby knife to widen the
hinge slot in the fuselage for the nylon hinge bearing on the
tail gear.Test fit the bearing.
❍ 6. Hold the rudder up to the fin. Mark the location of the
“arm” of the tail gear wire onto the rudder.
❍ 7. The same as was done for the elevators, drill a 3/32"
[2.4mm] hole and cut a 1/8" [3.2mm] groove into the rudder
for the wire and the nylon bearing. Set the rudder aside.
❍ 8.Clean the elevator joiner wire with denatured alcohol or
other solvent. Roughen the wire with coarse sandpaper so
glue will adhere.
❍ 9. Test fit the elevators and joiner wire to the stabilizer
with the hinges. Make any adjustments necessary for a
good fit. Remove the elevators and joiner wire.
❍ 10. Coat the joiner wire and use a toothpick or a wire to
fill the holes and the grooves in the elevators with 30-minute
epoxy. Install the joiner wire and wipe away excess epoxy.
Join the elevators to the stabilizer with the hinges before the
epoxy hardens.Permanently glue in the hinges with thin CA.
10

❍ 11. Cut a half-round notch in the rudder to accommodate
the elevator joiner wire. Lightly coat the notch with epoxy to
fuelproof the bare wood.
❍ 12. Apply a dab of petroleum jelly or a small drop of oil to
both ends of the bearing to keep glue from adhering. Use a
thin, metal ruler or something similar to thoroughly work
epoxy into the slot in the fuselage. Coat the hinge of the
bearing with epoxy, then fit the bearing into the fuselage and
wipe away excess epoxy.
❍ 13. Apply 30-minute epoxy to the arm and in the hole in
the rudder, then join the rudder to the fin with the hinges.
Use thin CA to glue in the hinges.
MOUNT THE ENGINE
❍ 1. Cut out the Engine Mount Template from the back of
the manual. Use repositionable spray adhesive or tape to
hold the template on the firewall. Use a large T-pin or
something similar to mark the bolt locations on the template
onto the firewall.
❍ 2. Remove the template. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through
the firewall at the marks. Enlarge the holes with a 3/16"
[4.8mm] drill.
❍ 3. Press the blind nuts into the holes in the back of the
firewall. If necessary, trim the triangle stock to clear the
flange of any of the blind nuts that are too close. Use the
engine mounting bolts with washers to draw the blind nuts
all the way in.
Note: To achieve the correct balance point specified in the
back of this manual, it is most likely that a couple of ounces
of tail weight will be required. To reduce the amount of tail
weight, mount the engine as far aft as possible on the
engine mount.
❍ 4. Attach the engine mount to the firewall with four 4 x
25mm bolts, but don’t tighten the bolts all the way. Place the
engine on the mount and adjust the width to fit your engine.
Now tighten the bolts. Use a Great Planes Dead Center
Engine Mount Hole Locator or a wire sharpened on the end
to mark the location of the engine mounting bolt holes on
the engine mount.
❍ 5.Take the engine off the mount.Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole
through the firewall that will be in line, or as much in line as
you can get, with the carburetor arm on the engine. Note:
Make certain the pushrod, when installed in the hole, will not
interfere with the fuel tank.
❍ 6. Drill 7/64" [2.8mm] holes through the engine mount at
the marks you made for mounting the engine. Mount the
engine to the engine mount with four 3.5 x 20mm sheet
metal screws and 3.5mm washers.
11

INSTALL THE PUSHRODS
❍ 1. Use coarse or medium-grit sandpaper to roughen the
outside of the plastic throttle pushrod guide tube so glue will
adhere. Guide the tube through the firewall into the radio
compartment. Connect the throttle pushrod wire to the
carburetor arm on the engine (this will require removal of the
carb arm), then guide the pushrod wire through the tube.
❍ 2. Thread a clevis about twenty full turns onto a 24"
[610mm] wire pushrod. Slip a silicone retainer over the
clevis. Cut the mounting plate from a control horn, then
connect the clevis to the second-from-the-outer hole of the
horn. Make another assembly the same way.
❍ 3.Slide the pushrods through the guide tubes in the back
of the fuselage. Place the left control horn on the elevator
and place the right control horn on the rudder. Align the
horns with the hinge gap as shown in the sketch.
❍ 4. Mark the location of the mounting holes for the control
horns on the rudder and elevator. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes
at the marks. Mount the horns with 2 x 15mm screws and
the nylon mounting plates. Caution: Do not overtighten the
screws.Otherwise, you will strip out the mounting plates and
the horns will not be securely mounted.
HOOK UP THE CONTROLS
❍ 1. Cut the covering 1/8" [3mm] inside the openings in the
wing for the aileron servos. Use a trim iron to seal the
covering down inside the openings.
❍ 2.Use the string in the wing to pull the aileron servo wires into
the radio compartment, then place the servos in the openings.
❍ 3. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the mounting plates
in the wing for the servo mounting screws.
❍ 4. Mount the servos in the wing using the screws that
came with the servos. IMPORTANT: Remove the screws,
Center your servos.
Futaba servos come with four- or six-arm servo arms.
The unused arms are usually cut off. But did you know
that each individual arm on Futaba servo arms is slightly
different? Before cutting off any arms, determine which
one to keep.First, hook up the servos to the receiver and
battery.Then, center the trims on the transmitter and turn
the system on. Test fit one of the servo arms on one of
the servos in the four (or six) possible positions until you
find an arm that will be 90 degrees to the pushrod.That’s
the arm to keep. Cut off the rest. Now the trims won’t
have to be used to center the servos.
12

add a few drops of thin CA to the screw holes, allow the CA
to harden, then remount the servos. This will harden the
screw holes so the screws will have a better “bite.”
❍ 5.Use a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (HCAR0698) or a 5/64"
[2mm] drill to enlarge the holes in one of the servo arms you
will be using for the aileron servo.Connect the aileron to the
aileron servo using the hardware shown in the photo. After
making a 90° bend in the pushrod and connecting it to the
servo with the pushrod connector, cut the excess wire 1/16"
[2mm] from the connector.
❍ 6. Mount the screw-lock pushrod connector to the throttle
servo arm. If a small washer was included with the
connector, it is not used. A piece of leftover pushrod wire
may be used as a miniature torque bar to hold the connector
while tightening the nut, but don’t overtighten. The
connector should be able to pivot in the hole of the servo
arm without too much resistance. IMPORTANT: Be certain
to use a small drop ofThreadlocker on the threads of the nut
so it will not come loose.
Refer to this photo to mount the servos in the fuselage
and hook up the pushrods.
❍ 7. Place the elevator and rudder servos in the servo tray
as shown. Fit the throttle pushrod wire into the screw-lock
pushrod connector on the throttle servo arm. Make a few
bends in the wire as necessary so the servo arm will fit
easily on the throttle servo, then mount the arm to the servo.
Center the carburetor arm and center the servo arm.
Temporarily tighten the set screw in the connector, then cut
the excess wire about 3/8" [10mm] past the connector.
❍ 8. The same as was done with the ailerons, center the
elevator and rudder, then make a 90° bend in the wires
where they go into the servo arms.Connect the wires to the
servo arms with the nylon 90° pushrod connectors and cut
off the excess wire.
❍ 9. Drill the holes and use the servo screws to mount the
servos to the servo trays. Don’t forget to remove the screws
and harden the screw holes with thin CA.
MOUNT THE LANDING GEAR
❍ 1. Use a small metal file to file a flat spot near both ends
of the main landing gear wire.
❍ 2. Mount the wheels to the main landing gear using the
wheel collars provided. Be certain to add a few drops of
Threadlocker to the threads on the set screws before
inserting them into the collars.Add a few drops of oil to both
sides of the wheel at the collars.
❍ 3. Cut the Main Landing Gear Template from the back
of the manual. Use tape or repositionable spray adhesive to
13

temporarily hold the template down. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm]
holes through the bottom of the fuselage at the marks for
the landing gear strap screws. Remove the template.
❍ 4. Mount the landing gear with the nylon straps and eight
2 x 8mm wood screws. Remove the screws, harden the
holes with a few drops of thin CA, allow to harden, then
remount the gear.
INSTALL THE FUEL TANK
❍ 1.Assemble the stopper assembly as shown in the photo.
The fuel pickup tube should be 2-5/8" [67mm] long. Bend
the vent tube upward so it will be near the top of the fuel
tank when the stopper is inserted. Insert the stopper
assembly and tighten the screw. Be certain the fuel pickup
does not contact the rear of the tank.
❍ 2. Lay a sheet of 1/4" [6mm] R/C foam in the bottom of
the fuel tank compartment.Install the fuel tank with the neck
in the hole in the firewall. Double-over another sheet of 1/4"
[6mm] foam and insert it behind the fuel tank.
❍ 3.Test fit the fuel tank hatch over the top of the fuselage.
If the front brace glued to the inside of the hatch interferes
with the fuel tank, use a hobby knife to strip the brace from
the hatch. Discard the brace.
❍ 4. Drill three 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the front of the
hatch and the top of the firewall and three more holes
through the rear of the hatch and the stick going across the
aft edge of the former. Enlarge the holes in the hatch only
with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill, then mount the hatch with six 2 x
8mm screws.
❍ 5. Remove the hatch. Harden the screw holes in the
fuselage with thin CA. Fuelproof the inside of the hatch with
fuelproof paint or epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol.
14

FINISH RADIO INSTALLATION
❍ 1. Neatly wrap the receiver and battery pack in 1/4"
[6mm] R/C foam rubber. Secure the foam with rubber bands
or tape. It’s also a good idea to secure the connection
between the switch and the battery pack with heat shrink
tubing, tape or clips intended for that purpose.
Note: As mentioned during engine installation, it is likely
that a couple of ounces of tail weight will be required to
achieve the correct balance point specified in the back of
this manual. If you are using a larger or heavier engine
(such as the Tower Pro .46), the battery pack could be
mounted behind the receiver.
❍ 2. Connect the aileron servo wires in the fuselage to a
Y-connector. Connect the receiver switch and the servos to
the receiver. Install the battery pack and receiver and hold
them in place by gluing strips of 1/8" [3mm] balsa across
them as suggested in the sketch.
❍ 3.Make a strain relief for the receiver antenna from a cut-
off servo arm. Guide the antenna through the strain relief,
then through a piece of tubing through a hole in the bottom
of the fuselage.Secure the rear of the antenna to the bottom
of the fuselage with tape or a small rubber band.
❍ 4. Mount the receiver on/off switch to the radio hatch.
Mount the radio hatch to the bottom of the fuselage the
same way you mounted the fuel tank hatch.
MOUNT THE CANOPY
❍ 1.Cut out the canopy leaving a 3/32" [3mm] flange all the way
around.True theedges with abar sanderand 80-gritsandpaper,
then use 400-grit sandpaper to sand off the flashing.
❍ 2.If you wish to install a pilot, now is the time to paint and
glue it into position.
❍ 3.Wash the canopy in warm, soapy water. Glue the canopy
to the fuselage with R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007) or
15

medium CA. If using CA, be certain to use it sparingly and DO
NOT use any CA accelerator.If accelerator is used, or if you use
too much CA it will fog the canopy.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Mount the muffler and connect the fuel lines.Install a 2-1/4"
[55mm] spinner (not included) and appropriate-size,
balanced propeller.
CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS
❍ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
❍ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
❍ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If any
of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo
reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to
those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have remained
centered. Adjust if necessary.
SET THE CONTROL THROWS
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow or a ruler to measure and
set the control throw of each control surface as indicated in
the chart that follows.If your radio does not have dual rates,
we recommend setting the throws at the low rate setting.
Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators and rudder.
BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine, landing
gear, radio system, propeller and spinner.
❍ 1. If you will be using a Great Planes C.G. Machine to
balance your model, set the rulers to 3-3/4" [95mm]. Place
the plane upside-down on the machine. If you will not be
using the C.G. Machine, use a felt-tip pen or narrow (1/8"
[3mm] or less) tape to accurately mark the C.G. on the top
of the wing on both sides of the fuselage 3-3/4" [95mm]
back from the leading edge of the wing.
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be
successful.If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT
PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
High Rate Low Rate
ELEVATOR: 3/4" [19mm] up 1/2" [13mm] up
3/4" [19mm] down 1/2" [13mm] down
RUDDER: 1-1/4" [32mm] right
1-1/4" [32mm] left
AILERONS: 3/4" [19mm] up 1/2" [13mm] up
3/4" [19mm] down 1/2" [13mm] down
IMPORTANT: The Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 ARF has
been extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws
at which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws
will provide you with the greatest chance for successful
first flights. If, after you have become accustomed to the
way the Uproar 40 ARF flies, you would like to change
the throws to suit your taste, that is fine. However, too
much control throw could make the model difficult to
control, so remember, “more is not always better.”
16

❍ 2.With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, place
the model upside-down on the Great Planes C.G. Machine,
or lift it upside-down at the balance point you marked. You
should be able to feel the tape lines with your fingers.
❍ 3.If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy”and the battery
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must
be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the
model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver
must be shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to
balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver
to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast required. If
additional weight is required, nose weight may be easily
added by using a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz.
[28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If
spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add
stick-on nose weight is to the firewall. Begin by placing
incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the bottom of
the fuselage over the nose or tail until the model balances.
Once you have determined the amount of weight required,
it can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight may
be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuselage and
gluing it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone
or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
❍ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any
weight, recheck the C.G.after the weight has been installed.
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY
❍ 1. With the wing level, lift the model by the engine
propeller shaft and the bottom of the fuselage under the
trailing edge of the fin. Do this several times.
❍ 2.If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy.Balance the airplane by adding weight to the
other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced
will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
PREFLIGHT
IDENTIFYYOUR MODEL
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you
fly somewhere on your own, you should always have your
name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or
inside your model.It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites
and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag
on the back cover page and place it on or inside your model.
CHARGE THE BATTERIES
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the
night before you go flying, and at other times as
recommended by the radio manufacturer.
BALANCE THE PROPELLERS
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run hot or quit.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio
system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the next
charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice.
If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries
may not reach their full capacity and you may be flying with
batteries that are only partially charged.
This is where your model should balance for the first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 1/4" [6mm] forward or 1/4" [6mm] back to
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G.
forward may improve the smoothness and stability, but
the model may then require more speed for takeoff and
make it more difficult to slow for landing.Moving the C.G.
aft makes the model more maneuverable, but could also
cause it to become too difficult to control. In any case,
start at the recommended balance point and do not at
any time balance the model outside the specified range.
17

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
GROUND CHECK
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confirm
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to
full power and maintains full power–indefinitely.After you run the
engine on the model, inspect the model closely to make sure all
screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop is secure
and all pushrods and connectors are secure.
RANGE CHECK
Ground check the operational range of your radio before the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,
poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or
a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide.Therefore,
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the
plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.Make certain the
glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop
off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation.Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off
the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline
powered engine an on/off switch should be connected to the
engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a
running engine.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site
or the Code that came with your AMA license.
GENERAL
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way to and avoid flying in
the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an
observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
RADIO CONTROL
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by
an experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators.Only personnel involved with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
18

4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing flying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed (in the complete AMA Safety Code).
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
CHECK LIST
❍ 1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
❍ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted. Simply stuffing them into place with foam
rubber is not sufficient.
❍ 3. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has
a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off
the solder joint inside the receiver.
❍ 4. Balance your model laterally as explained in the
instructions.
❍ 5. Use thread locking compound to secure critical
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the
wheel collars to the landing gear, screws that hold
the carburetor arm (if applicable), the screw-lock
pushrod connector on the throttle servo, etc.
❍ 6. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
turn freely.
❍ 7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❍ 8. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
appropriate (servo mounting screws, hatch covers,
main landing gear screws).
❍ 9. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct
direction and the throws are set up according to
the manual.
❍ 10. Make sure all the servo arms are mounted to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.
❍ 11. Make sure none of the servo wires orY-connectors can
get caught in any of the pushrods or servo arms.
❍ 12. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
not kinked.
❍ 13. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❍ 14. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❍ 15. Place your name, address, AMA number and
telephone number on or inside your model.
❍ 16. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
❍ 17. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
❍ 18. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.
FLYING
The Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 ARF is a great-flying model
that flies smoothly and predictably.The Uproar 40 ARF does
not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of a
primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by pilots who
have some R/C experience.
Before the first flight of the day don’t forget to do a range
check with the engine off and with the engine running. Also
don’t forget to check to make sure all the controls respond
in the correct direction before EVERY flight.
Before takeoff, see how the Uproar 40 ARF handles on the
ground and check to see if the tail wheel is straight. Do not use
the rudder trim to get the model to roll straight. Instead, use
pliers to carefully bend the tail gear wire as necessary. When
ready for takeoff, point the model down the runway into the wind.
Gently apply full throttle to keep the model from“looping out” on
the ground. When adequate speed has been reached gently
apply up elevator to lift the model into the air. After reaching a
safe altitude fly around for a few minutes to see how the Uproar
40 ARF behaves in different situations. Adjust the trims as
necessary to get the model to fly straight-and-level. If you find
the Uproar 40 ARF a bit of a handful you can always throttle
back to make it fly and react slower.While still at a safe altitude
make a few practice landing approaches by cutting the throttle
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound
such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control
surface
flutter . Flutter occurs when a control surface
(such as an aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such
as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus
causing the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected
immediately, flutter can actually cause the control surface
to detach or the flying surface to fail, thus causing loss of
control followed by an impending crash.The best thing to
do when flutter is detected is to slow the model
immediately by reducing power, then land as soon as
safely possible. Identify which surface fluttered (so the
problem may be resolved) by checking all the servo
grommets for deterioration or signs of vibration. Make
certain all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play.
If it fluttered once, under similar circumstances it will
probably flutter again unless the problem is fixed. Some
things which can cause flutter are; Excessive hinge gap;
Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in
horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by large bends;
Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure servo
mounting;and one of the most prevalent causes of flutter;
Flying an over-powered model at excessive speeds.
During the last few moments of preparation your mind
may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first
flight.Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook
certain checks and procedures that should be performed
before the model is flown. To help avoid this, a check list
is provided to make sure these important areas are not
overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual,
so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete
instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are
completed (that’s why it’s called a
check list! ).
19

to see how the model behaves in “landing mode.” Make mental
notes (or have a friend make notes) of any trim or C.G.changes
that may be required.Land when ready.After landing, make any
mechanical adjustments so the trims can be returned to center.
Make an inspection of the model to make sure all systems are
operating and all fasteners are still tight and present.
One final note about flying your model.Have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know, or
learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such
as on high or low rates).This is not necessarily to improve
your skills (though it is never a bad idea!) , but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do
a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to
maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top, and
make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates).
A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your
model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves.
Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a
safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
Cut out or copy the identification tag and put it on or
inside your model.