VERITAS 05J17.01 User manual

Joinery Table
Table d’usinage pour
assemblage à faux tenon
05J17.01

Joinery Table
Introduction
The Veritas Joinery Table is designed to be used with the Festool Domino Joiner DF 500 to create accurately placed and aligned
mortises for loose-tenon joinery. It increases the stability of the Domino, especially when working on narrower workpieces.
Caution: To use this product safely, always follow the safety instructions that came with the Festool Domino Joiner.
As with any power tool accessory, always wear proper eye protection and hearing protection.
The base unit features a recessed opening for mounting the
Domino between the split fixed fences. Multiple keyhole slots
run parallel with the fixed fence to provide tracks for mounting
the hold-downs from any point.
While the movable right-angle fence accurately locates the
workpiece, the offset gauge makes it possible to move it to a
mirrored location so that the “left” and “right” halves of a joint
line up perfectly.
A pair of 6 mm shims is used to adjust the 5 mm vertical offset of
the mortise to 10 mm or 11 mm from the base surface.
The frame has cut-outs on all four sides, making it easy to clamp
the joinery table to your workbench when needed, and remove it
when not in use.
Table Assembly
The joinery table requires some assembly. The parts have been
designed for ease of assembly using a Robertson (square-drive)
screwdriver and a 5/32"hex key.
1. Lay the base panel face down on your work surface, such
that the frame grooves face upward.
2. Place the side panels into the appropriate grooves. The two
side panels are identical.
3. Place the stretcher in the center groove between the side
panels, being sure to align the cut-outs in the edge with the
keyhole slots in the base panel.
4. Set the back panel in the grooves furthest away from the
keyhole slots in the base panel.
5. Secure the back panel to the side panels and stretcher using
#8 × 1 1/4"pan-head screws. Do not overtighten these screws.
Figure 1: Joinery Table parts.
Right-Angle Fence
Recessed Opening for
Domino (not included) Offset Gauge
Keyhole Slot
Fixed Fence
Hold-Down
Shim
Base
Figure 2: Locating the side panels and stretcher.Figure 2: Locating the side panels and stretcher.
Base Panel
Side Panel
Keyhole Slot
Cut-Out
Stretcher
Figure 3: Attaching the back panel.
#8 × 1 1/4"Pan-Head Screw
Back Panel
Side Panel
Stretcher
Keyhole Slot

6. Set the front panel in the remaining grooves closest to the
keyhole slots.
7. Attach the front panel to the side panels and stretcher with
#8 × 1 1/4"pan-head screws.
8. Carefully flip the entire assembly over, right side up. Ensure
the frame members are still located in the grooves in the
underside of the base panel.
9. Secure the base panel to the frame and stretcher using the
#8 × 1 3/4"flat-head screws.
10. Place the two aluminum fixed fences in the milled cavity in
the top and push them against the milled sides of the cavity
to ensure the two fences are aligned with each other. Secure
the fences in place with the 1/4-20 × 3/4"button-head
screws and 1/4"washers.
Mounting the Domino
1. Thread the two mounting studs into the M5 holes in the
bottom of the Domino base plate. The mounting studs need
only be finger tight.
2. Use the pair of 6 mm thick shims to adjust the 5 mm vertical
offset of the mortise to 10 mm or 11 mm from the base
surface of the joinery table.
a. To establish a 10 mm vertical offset, place the 6 mm thick
shims into the slots in the milled cavity for the Domino
base plate.
b. For an 11 mm vertical offset, butt a 6 mm thick shim
against either side of the cavity.
c. With no shims, the center line of the Domino bit will be
5 mm from the base surface of the joinery table.
d. If a greater range of offsets is desired, an accessory shim
pack with 2 mm, 4 mm and 8 mm pairs of shims is
available separately.
3. Insert the mounting studs in the Domino base plate through
the holes in the base surface of the joinery table. Secure with
two brass knobs. Do not fully tighten the knobs.
Note: You may need to move the fixed fence to clear some of the
adjustment knobs on the Domino.
Base Panel
#8 × 1 3/4"Flat-Head Screw
Figure 5: Securing the base panel to the frame. Figure 8: Adjusting the vertical offset with shims.
6 mm shims placed in the slots 6 mm shims placed on the sides
Figure 6: Attaching the fixed fences.
1/4-20 × 3/4"
Button-Head Screw
Fixed Fence
1/4"Washer
Figure 7: Installing the mounting studs in the Domino base plate.
Mounting Stud
Domino Base Plate
Figure 9: Installing the Domino to the base surface.
(Panel frame members removed for clarity.)
Brass Knob
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Stretcher
Front Panel
Side Panel
Keyhole Slot
#8 × 1 1/4"Pan-Head Screw
Figure 4: Attaching the front panel.

Installing the Right-Angle Fence and
Hold-Downs
1. Align the two cut-outs in the edge of the right-angle fence
with the spring stops in the face of the Domino.
2. Ensure the right-angle fence is in contact with the fixed fences.
3. Secure the right-angle fence with the two wing knobs
threaded into the insert nuts.
4. Align the Domino face with the right-angle fence and tighten
the brass knobs. This aligns the Domino to the fixed fences.
5. Install the hold-downs through the holes in the ends of the
keyhole slots. The end of the T-bolt should engage the
undercut in the keyhole slot.
Note: In practice, the hold-downs will need to be moved to
different keyhole slots, as needed, to adequately hold a workpiece
in place.
The joinery table is now ready to use.
Cutting Mortises in Mitered Joints
1. Cut and miter all the parts of your project/frame to length.
2. Lay out the parts to form the frame and mark all the joint
locations to indicate which side is up. Notice that each part
has a left and right end, and the geometry of these ends
creates mirror images.
3. On at least one of the joints, also mark the desired center of
the loose tenon. In our example, we used a capital letter R
on the left end of the part. This reference mark will be used
for the initial set-up of the joinery table.
Note: As with all joinery cut by machine, it is good practice to
have a number of extra parts to use for testing the set-up. This is
particularly important when configuring the joinery table for the
second half of the joint.
4. Using the part specifically marked for set-up, align the
reference mark with the centerline mark on the face of
the Domino.
5. Clamp the part in place using at least one hold-down. Larger
parts may require two hold-downs.
6. Slide the right-angle fence against the part, ensuring it is
also tight against the fixed fence. Lock the right-angle fence
in place using the wing knobs.
7. Cut the left mortise.
8. Replace the part with the next frame piece and proceed to
cut the left mortise in the end of the three remaining parts.
Right-Angle Fence
Spring Stop
Fixed Fence
Wing Knob
Insert Nut
Figure 10: Aligning the Domino to the fixed fences.
Hold-Down
T-Bolt
Keyhole Slot
Figure 11: Installing the hold-downs.
Figure 12: Example of a typical mitered frame. Note joint location
marks across each miter.
Joint Location Marks
Reference Mark
Figure 13: Cutting the first mortise.
Reference Mark
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9. Once each part has the left end processed, place the offset
gauge in the hole in the right-angle fence and adjust the
gauge so the cursor registers against the inside surface of
the outermost spring stop on the front face of the Domino.
10. Lock this setting, and then remove the offset gauge from the
right-angle fence and set it aside.
Note: While there are a number of features on the face of the
Domino that can be used for reference alignment, make it a habit
to consistently use the same reference point. In our example, our
reference point is the inside surface of the outermost spring stop
on the front face of the Domino.
11. Reposition the right-angle fence on the right side of the
Domino and place the offset gauge in the hole in the fence.
12. Slide the fence/gauge assembly until the cursor is aligned
with the inside surface of the outermost spring stop.
13. Ensure the right-angle fence is tight against the fixed fence.
Lock it in place using the wing knobs.
14. Remove the offset gauge.
15. Make a test cut with a scrap piece of the frame material to
ensure the set-up is correct and the desired mating right joint
alignment is achieved.
16. If all is correct, proceed to cut the right mortises in all the
parts. (If not, adjust as required.)
Cutting Mortises in Butt Joints
Butt-jointed frames require a bit more care than mitered joints as
far as marking the parts and being vigilant regarding “left” and
“right” ends of the part.
Note: As with all joinery cut by machine, it is good practice to
have a number of extra parts to use for testing the set-up. This is
particularly important when configuring the joinery table for the
second half of the joint.
1. Cut all the parts of your project/frame to length.
2. Lay out the parts to form the frame and mark all the joint
locations to indicate which side is up, as well as which edge
is out. In our example, we used a double line parallel to and
across the parts that will receive the mortises. On either
side of the mortise marks, we scribed a perpendicular line
extending to the outer edge of each part to indicate the outer
edge of the frame.
3. On at least one of the joints, also clearly mark where the
center of the mortise should be on that surface. In our
example, we used a capital letter R. This reference mark will
be used for the initial set-up of the joinery table.
4. Using the part specifically marked for set-up, align the
reference mark with the centerline mark on the face of
the Domino.
5. Ensure the part is tight against the fixed fence and clamp the
part in place with at least one hold-down.
6. Slide the right-angle fence against the end of the part that is
marked as the outside of the frame, ensuring it is also tight
against the fixed fence. Lock the right-angle fence in place
using the wing knobs.
Figure 16: Cutting the mating Domino mortises.
Figure 14: Setting the offset gauge.
Spring Stop
Offset Gauge
Cursor
Right-Angle
Fence
Figure 15: Reversing the right-angle fence and setting the mortise
distance with the offset gauge.
Outermost
Spring Stop
Cursor
Figure 17: Butt-joint frame. Note the corner markings designate
which surface gets a mortise (two lines) and which surface is the
outside of the frame (one line).
Reference Mark Mortise Mark
Outside Mark
Figure 18: Cutting the first side-grain mortise.
Reference Mark
Outside mark against
the right-angle fence
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