VERITAS 05J41.01 User manual

Power Tenon Cutters
05J41.01 –
5/8"
05J41.02 –
3/4"
05J41.09 –
7/8"
05J41.03 – 1"
05J41.07 – 11/4"
05J41.05 – 11/2"
05J41.08 – 13/4"
05J41.06 – 2"
Patented.
Replacement Blade and Accessories
Product # Description
05J41.11 Replacement Blade
(all sizes)
50J62.01 Sanding Drum,
11/2"× 11/2"
50J62.02 80x SiC Sleeves,
package of 3
50J62.03 120x SiC Sleeves,
package of 3
54K93.02 81/2"× 11"Micro-Abrasive
Sheet (15µ SiC, PSA)
99K31.01 0.25"× 0.10"Rare-Earth
Magnet
99K31.03 0.50"× 0.125"Rare-Earth
Magnet
Other Sizes of Tenon Cutters Available
Product # Description
05J42.01 Mini Tenon Cutter –
1/4"
05J42.05 Mini Tenon Cutter –
5/16"
05J42.02 Mini Tenon Cutter –
3/8"
05J42.06 Mini Tenon Cutter –
7/16"
05J42.03 Mini Tenon Cutter – 1/2"
05J42.04 Mini Tenon Cutter –
9/16"
General Safety Rules
1. Read the manual. Learn the tool’s
applications and limitations as well as
the specific hazards related to the tool.
2. Use common sense. If an action
appears to be unsafe, it likely is.
3. Wear proper eye/ear protection.
Everyday eyeglasses have only
impact-resistant lenses; they are not
safety glasses. Also use a face or
dust mask if the cutting operation is
dusty. Visitors should wear the same
protection.
4. Wear proper apparel. Avoid wearing
clothing with loose sleeves. Do not
wear gloves, ties, rings or bracelets
as these can get caught in moving
machinery.
5. Long hair should be tied back and
secured.
6. Do not work under the influence of
drugs, alcohol, or medication. Drugs,
alcohol, medication and lack of
sleep cause impaired judgment and
coordination and should not be
combined with power tool operation.
7. Use in an appropriate environment.
Power tools should be used only in
dry, clean and well-lit environments.
Exposure to rain or use in the presence
of flammable liquids or gases could
result in damage or injury.
8. Do not operate electric tools in
gaseous or explosive environments.
The spark of the motor may cause
the fumes to ignite.
9. Keep workplace clean. Cluttered
areas and benches invite
accidents.
10. Use correct power supply. Never
use a power source for which this
tool was not designed. It could
cause serious injury. If the tool is
equipped with a three-prong plug,
it should be plugged into a three-
hole electric receptacle. An adapter
should be properly grounded.
11. Keep cord away from heat, oil and
sharp edges.
12. Do not carry a plugged-in portable
tool with finger on the switch.
Safety Rules
These safety instructions are meant to complement those that came with your
power tool. We suggest that you reread those, in addition to those listed here
before you begin to use this product. To use this product safely, always follow both
sets of safety and general instructions.
2
341
© Veritas Tools Inc. 2005
814 Proctor Avenue
Ogdensburg, New York
13669-2205 USA
1090 Morrison Drive
Ottawa, Ontario
K2H 1C2 Canada
INS-124 Rev. E
Printed in Canada.

Power Tenon Cutters
05J41.01 –
5/8"
05J41.02 –
3/4"
05J41.09 –
7/8"
05J41.03 – 1"
05J41.07 – 11/4"
05J41.05 – 11/2"
05J41.08 – 13/4"
05J41.06 – 2"
Patented.
Replacement Blade and Accessories
Product # Description
05J41.11 Replacement Blade
(all sizes)
50J62.01 Sanding Drum,
11/2"× 11/2"
50J62.02 80x SiC Sleeves,
package of 3
50J62.03 120x SiC Sleeves,
package of 3
54K93.02 81/2"× 11"Micro-Abrasive
Sheet (15µ SiC, PSA)
99K31.01 0.25"× 0.10"Rare-Earth
Magnet
99K31.03 0.50"× 0.125"Rare-Earth
Magnet
Other Sizes of Tenon Cutters Available
Product # Description
05J42.01 Mini Tenon Cutter –
1/4"
05J42.05 Mini Tenon Cutter –
5/16"
05J42.02 Mini Tenon Cutter –
3/8"
05J42.06 Mini Tenon Cutter –
7/16"
05J42.03 Mini Tenon Cutter – 1/2"
05J42.04 Mini Tenon Cutter –
9/16"
General Safety Rules
1. Read the manual. Learn the tool’s
applications and limitations as well as
the specific hazards related to the tool.
2. Use common sense. If an action
appears to be unsafe, it likely is.
3. Wear proper eye/ear protection.
Everyday eyeglasses have only
impact-resistant lenses; they are not
safety glasses. Also use a face or
dust mask if the cutting operation is
dusty. Visitors should wear the same
protection.
4. Wear proper apparel. Avoid wearing
clothing with loose sleeves. Do not
wear gloves, ties, rings or bracelets
as these can get caught in moving
machinery.
5. Long hair should be tied back and
secured.
6. Do not work under the influence of
drugs, alcohol, or medication. Drugs,
alcohol, medication and lack of
sleep cause impaired judgment and
coordination and should not be
combined with power tool operation.
7. Use in an appropriate environment.
Power tools should be used only in
dry, clean and well-lit environments.
Exposure to rain or use in the presence
of flammable liquids or gases could
result in damage or injury.
8. Do not operate electric tools in
gaseous or explosive environments.
The spark of the motor may cause
the fumes to ignite.
9. Keep workplace clean. Cluttered
areas and benches invite
accidents.
10. Use correct power supply. Never
use a power source for which this
tool was not designed. It could
cause serious injury. If the tool is
equipped with a three-prong plug,
it should be plugged into a three-
hole electric receptacle. An adapter
should be properly grounded.
11. Keep cord away from heat, oil and
sharp edges.
12. Do not carry a plugged-in portable
tool with finger on the switch.
Safety Rules
These safety instructions are meant to complement those that came with your
power tool. We suggest that you reread those, in addition to those listed here
before you begin to use this product. To use this product safely, always follow both
sets of safety and general instructions.
2
341
© Veritas Tools Inc. 2005
814 Proctor Avenue
Ogdensburg, New York
13669-2205 USA
1090 Morrison Drive
Ottawa, Ontario
K2H 1C2 Canada
INS-124 Rev. E
Printed in Canada.

13. Never carry portable tools by the cord.
14. Use the right tool. Do not force a
small tool or attachment to do the job
of a heavy-duty tool.
15. Do not force tool. It will do the job
better and safer at the rate for which
it was designed.
16. Do not use damaged tools. A damaged
tool that does not operate correctly is
a safety hazard and should be fixed
before any further use.
17. Repairs and service should be
performed by a certified technician.
Use only identical replacement parts.
18. Do not alter or misuse the tool. Stop
any operation immediately if you
notice anything abnormal.
19. Practice proper maintenance. Keep all
tools sharp, clean and well lubricated
for the best and safest results. Sharp
blades minimize stalling, kickback,
and burning. They perform faster,
better and safer than dull blades.
20. Keep hands away from moving
parts until they have come to a
complete stop and the power has been
disconnected.
21. Always disconnect the tool from the
power source when changing cutters
or blades, or when performing any
general maintenance activities (such
as adjusting or cleaning).
22. Handle blades with care.
23. Unless otherwise specified, always
insert the shank as far as possible into
the chuck in order to provide proper
support. Tighten the chuck securely.
24. Remove all nails from a workpiece
before performing any operation on it.
25. Hold workpiece firmly in a vise or clamp.
26. Ensure that depth and any other
adjustments are tight.
27. Remove adjusting keys and wrenches
before use.
28. Maintain good balance.
29. Do not remove workpiece or cut-off
pieces from tool during a cut while
the cutter is moving.
30. Do not leave tool until it comes to a
complete stop.
31. When not in use, power tools should
be stored in a dry area, elevated and
locked so that they are out of the
reach of children.
3
The Veritas®Power Tenon Cutters make
round tenon cutting for rustic furniture quick,
accurate and easy. Each has been balanced to
minimize vibration while being driven with
an electric drill, and an integral level vial
helps you keep the tenon cutter level. The
blade is adjustable to cut the exact size of
tenon required. It is easy to sharpen the blade
with the integral sharpening jig that holds the
blade at the optimum angle.
Veritas®Tenon Cutters are for use in a hand
electric drill. They are not to be used in a drill
press for several reasons.
1) Because the workpiece must be rigidly
clamped in line with the equally rigid
axis of the drill-press chuck, any
misalignment or movement can create
high side loads on the tenon cutter,
leading to the shank failing. Any quill
run-out in the drill press contributes
further to the problem.
2) Because there is much less feel as to how
the cutter is performing when using a
drill press, it is possible to overload the
tenon cutter without realizing it. This too
can lead to the shank failing.
3) Overloading the tenon cutter or operating
it at high speeds can also lead to
overheating the high-carbon steel blade,
resulting in edge failure, loss of hardness,
and a useless blade.
Taking a Test Cut
Firmly tighten the tenon cutter in the chuck
of an electric drill. For the large-size tenon
cutters (11/4"to 2"dia.) a minimum 1/2"
chuck is required, and a high-torque, low-
speed (~500 rpm) drill is recommended.
Clamp a piece of wood horizontally in a vise
at about waist height. Use a piece no larger
than the diameter specified in Table 1 for the
tenon cutter to be used. Ensure the end is cut
square. Putting a substantial chamfer on the
end of a piece of wood that is at or close to the
upper limit of the tenon cutter’s capacity will
make starting the cut much easier.
Table 1: Maximum Wood Diameter for Tenon
Cutter Diameter.
Hint: If you do not have a vise, you
can improvise with a piece of 2×4 with
various sizes of V-shaped notches cut in
it and two C-clamps. Place the piece of
wood in a notch slightly smaller than its
diameter, and clamp the 2×4 to a bench or
any large stable surface.
Place the tenon cutter on the end of the piece
of wood and rotate the tenon cutter by hand
until the level vial is at the top. Raise or lower
the drill until the bubble is centered in the
vial. Adjust the drill left or right by eye so that
it is in line with the piece of wood.
It is important to realize that the tenon cutter
will cut tenons in line with the axis of the
drill. If you wish to have a tenon come off the
end of the piece of wood at an angle, clamp
the piece in a vise at the desired angle (using
an inclinometer if necessary). Cut the tenon
while holding the tenon cutter straight and
level, using the level vial as an indicator.
4
Tenon Dia. Max. Stock Dia.
5/8"to 1"Tenon Dia. + 11/8"
1
1/4"to 2"Tenon Dia. + 11/2"

13. Never carry portable tools by the cord.
14. Use the right tool. Do not force a
small tool or attachment to do the job
of a heavy-duty tool.
15. Do not force tool. It will do the job
better and safer at the rate for which
it was designed.
16. Do not use damaged tools. A damaged
tool that does not operate correctly is
a safety hazard and should be fixed
before any further use.
17. Repairs and service should be
performed by a certified technician.
Use only identical replacement parts.
18. Do not alter or misuse the tool. Stop
any operation immediately if you
notice anything abnormal.
19. Practice proper maintenance. Keep all
tools sharp, clean and well lubricated
for the best and safest results. Sharp
blades minimize stalling, kickback,
and burning. They perform faster,
better and safer than dull blades.
20. Keep hands away from moving
parts until they have come to a
complete stop and the power has been
disconnected.
21. Always disconnect the tool from the
power source when changing cutters
or blades, or when performing any
general maintenance activities (such
as adjusting or cleaning).
22. Handle blades with care.
23. Unless otherwise specified, always
insert the shank as far as possible into
the chuck in order to provide proper
support. Tighten the chuck securely.
24. Remove all nails from a workpiece
before performing any operation on it.
25. Hold workpiece firmly in a vise or clamp.
26. Ensure that depth and any other
adjustments are tight.
27. Remove adjusting keys and wrenches
before use.
28. Maintain good balance.
29. Do not remove workpiece or cut-off
pieces from tool during a cut while
the cutter is moving.
30. Do not leave tool until it comes to a
complete stop.
31. When not in use, power tools should
be stored in a dry area, elevated and
locked so that they are out of the
reach of children.
3
The Veritas®Power Tenon Cutters make
round tenon cutting for rustic furniture quick,
accurate and easy. Each has been balanced to
minimize vibration while being driven with
an electric drill, and an integral level vial
helps you keep the tenon cutter level. The
blade is adjustable to cut the exact size of
tenon required. It is easy to sharpen the blade
with the integral sharpening jig that holds the
blade at the optimum angle.
Veritas®Tenon Cutters are for use in a hand
electric drill. They are not to be used in a drill
press for several reasons.
1) Because the workpiece must be rigidly
clamped in line with the equally rigid
axis of the drill-press chuck, any
misalignment or movement can create
high side loads on the tenon cutter,
leading to the shank failing. Any quill
run-out in the drill press contributes
further to the problem.
2) Because there is much less feel as to how
the cutter is performing when using a
drill press, it is possible to overload the
tenon cutter without realizing it. This too
can lead to the shank failing.
3) Overloading the tenon cutter or operating
it at high speeds can also lead to
overheating the high-carbon steel blade,
resulting in edge failure, loss of hardness,
and a useless blade.
Taking a Test Cut
Firmly tighten the tenon cutter in the chuck
of an electric drill. For the large-size tenon
cutters (11/4"to 2"dia.) a minimum 1/2"
chuck is required, and a high-torque, low-
speed (~500 rpm) drill is recommended.
Clamp a piece of wood horizontally in a vise
at about waist height. Use a piece no larger
than the diameter specified in Table 1 for the
tenon cutter to be used. Ensure the end is cut
square. Putting a substantial chamfer on the
end of a piece of wood that is at or close to the
upper limit of the tenon cutter’s capacity will
make starting the cut much easier.
Table 1: Maximum Wood Diameter for Tenon
Cutter Diameter.
Hint: If you do not have a vise, you
can improvise with a piece of 2×4 with
various sizes of V-shaped notches cut in
it and two C-clamps. Place the piece of
wood in a notch slightly smaller than its
diameter, and clamp the 2×4 to a bench or
any large stable surface.
Place the tenon cutter on the end of the piece
of wood and rotate the tenon cutter by hand
until the level vial is at the top. Raise or lower
the drill until the bubble is centered in the
vial. Adjust the drill left or right by eye so that
it is in line with the piece of wood.
It is important to realize that the tenon cutter
will cut tenons in line with the axis of the
drill. If you wish to have a tenon come off the
end of the piece of wood at an angle, clamp
the piece in a vise at the desired angle (using
an inclinometer if necessary). Cut the tenon
while holding the tenon cutter straight and
level, using the level vial as an indicator.
4
Tenon Dia. Max. Stock Dia.
5/8"to 1"Tenon Dia. + 11/8"
1
1/4"to 2"Tenon Dia. + 11/2"

To Adjust Shaving Thickness:
The tenon cutter is designed to cut a 0.030"
thick shaving at the largest portion of the
tenon shoulder, decreasing in thickness as
it reaches the main bore. Depending on the
size of shoulder and dryness of the wood
being cut, you may want to reduce this.
For example, cutting a 1"tenon on a 21/8"
stick will produce a large shoulder, so a
correspondingly large surface area of wood
must be cut away. By cutting the 0.010"thick
shim into 1/8"to 1/4"wide strips and placing
one or more between the blade and the body
near the mouth, the shaving thickness will
be reduced (see Figure 3). While it will take
longer to produce a tenon with a smaller
shaving, less torque is required to turn the
cutter and control is improved.
Figure 3: Shimming the Blade to Reduce Shaving
Thickness.
Setting the Tenon Length
A tenon cut to full depth will be 23/4"long
with the 5/8"to 1"dia. tenon cutters, and 41/4"
long with the 11/4"to 2"dia. tenon cutters.
(Note: tenon lengths do not include the 3/4"
long shoulder). Tenon length can be reduced
by making a depth stop using the rare-earth
magnet that comes attached to the back end
of the hex drive. With the blade advanced to
cut the minimum tenon size, cut a full-length
tenon. Cut off the end of this tenon to obtain
a dowel of the required length; dowel length
= (tenon length without depth stop) - desired
tenon length (see Figure 4). Counterbore
a hole in the center of one end, only deep
enough to house the magnet. Bond the magnet
into the hole using epoxy adhesive. Pop the
magnetic depth stop into the tenon cutter until
it adheres to the bottom of the bore. Stab it
with a scratch awl to remove it.
Sharpening
The body of the tenon cutter has a side flute
for use as a sharpening jig. Move the blade
from the cutting position to the sharpening
position (as shown) and fix it in position with
the blade clamping screw placed in the central
slot in the blade.
Note: The 11/4" to 2" dia. tenon cutters
contain a 3/8" long screw in the side flute.
This may be used to fix the blade in position
for sharpening. Its primary purpose,
however, is to allow a blade that has been
shortened from repeated sharpenings to
6
1/8"Minimum
for strength
One or more
0.010"shims,
1/8"to 1/4"wide.
Figure 4: Depth Stop.
Counterbore for magnet.
Rare-
Earth
Magnet
Tenon
length
with
depth
stop.
Wooden
dowel with
magnet in
tenon cutter.
Max. tenon
length.
Note: Whether you are cutting in-line or
angled tenons, the secret to cutting a uniform
tenon is to keep the drill very steady while
cutting.
While leaning into the wood, switch on the
drill at a moderate speed (500 to 700 rpm
for 5/8"to 1"dia. tenons, 100 to 200 rpm for
11/4"to 2"dia. tenons). Turning too fast may
cause you to wander from a straight cut. If
the blade is properly set, a long continuous
shaving of wood will curl out of the tenon
cutter as it rotates. If the tenon cutter stops
cutting or does not cut at all, you will need
to adjust the blade.
Adjusting the Blade
There are two adjustments that can be
made to the tenon cutter. The one you
will use most often is the blade advance
to obtain the desired tenon diameter. The
second adjustment allows you to reduce
the thickness of cut.
To Adjust Tenon Diameter:
To adjust the blade, back off the clamping
screw about one half turn if you intend
to advance the blade, or fully relieve the
pressure if you need to retract the blade
(see Figure 1). Advance or retard the blade
advance screw by about one half turn,
retighten and test. Repeat until you can cut
a continuous shaving of wood. Then test the
tenon for size. To fine tune it, remember
that advancing the blade will reduce tenon
diameter and vice versa.
Note: Never adjust the blade without first
loosening the blade clamping screw as you
may damage your tenon cutter.
Figure 1: Adjusting the Blade.
In some instances, you may find that backing
the blade off to its minimum projection into
the main bore will still not yield a tenon
sufficiently large for a snug fit into your
mating hole. By cutting a 1/8"wide strip of
the included 0.010"thick shim and placing it
between the blade and the body (just behind
the blade clamping screw), the maximum
tenon size will be increased by approximately
0.020"(see Figure 2).
Note: Only one shim may be added in this
location; adding more will elevate the blade
beyond the point at which the blade can still
cut the tenon.
Figure 2: Shimming the Blade to Increase the
Tenon Size.
5
Blade
Advance
Screw
Blade
Clamping
Screw
Clamping Washer
0.010" Shim
1/8"wide

To Adjust Shaving Thickness:
The tenon cutter is designed to cut a 0.030"
thick shaving at the largest portion of the
tenon shoulder, decreasing in thickness as
it reaches the main bore. Depending on the
size of shoulder and dryness of the wood
being cut, you may want to reduce this.
For example, cutting a 1"tenon on a 21/8"
stick will produce a large shoulder, so a
correspondingly large surface area of wood
must be cut away. By cutting the 0.010"thick
shim into 1/8"to 1/4"wide strips and placing
one or more between the blade and the body
near the mouth, the shaving thickness will
be reduced (see Figure 3). While it will take
longer to produce a tenon with a smaller
shaving, less torque is required to turn the
cutter and control is improved.
Figure 3: Shimming the Blade to Reduce Shaving
Thickness.
Setting the Tenon Length
A tenon cut to full depth will be 23/4"long
with the 5/8"to 1"dia. tenon cutters, and 41/4"
long with the 11/4"to 2"dia. tenon cutters.
(Note: tenon lengths do not include the 3/4"
long shoulder). Tenon length can be reduced
by making a depth stop using the rare-earth
magnet that comes attached to the back end
of the hex drive. With the blade advanced to
cut the minimum tenon size, cut a full-length
tenon. Cut off the end of this tenon to obtain
a dowel of the required length; dowel length
= (tenon length without depth stop) - desired
tenon length (see Figure 4). Counterbore
a hole in the center of one end, only deep
enough to house the magnet. Bond the magnet
into the hole using epoxy adhesive. Pop the
magnetic depth stop into the tenon cutter until
it adheres to the bottom of the bore. Stab it
with a scratch awl to remove it.
Sharpening
The body of the tenon cutter has a side flute
for use as a sharpening jig. Move the blade
from the cutting position to the sharpening
position (as shown) and fix it in position with
the blade clamping screw placed in the central
slot in the blade.
Note: The 11/4" to 2" dia. tenon cutters
contain a 3/8" long screw in the side flute.
This may be used to fix the blade in position
for sharpening. Its primary purpose,
however, is to allow a blade that has been
shortened from repeated sharpenings to
6
1/8"Minimum
for strength
One or more
0.010"shims,
1/8"to 1/4"wide.
Figure 4: Depth Stop.
Counterbore for magnet.
Rare-
Earth
Magnet
Tenon
length
with
depth
stop.
Wooden
dowel with
magnet in
tenon cutter.
Max. tenon
length.
Note: Whether you are cutting in-line or
angled tenons, the secret to cutting a uniform
tenon is to keep the drill very steady while
cutting.
While leaning into the wood, switch on the
drill at a moderate speed (500 to 700 rpm
for 5/8"to 1"dia. tenons, 100 to 200 rpm for
11/4"to 2"dia. tenons). Turning too fast may
cause you to wander from a straight cut. If
the blade is properly set, a long continuous
shaving of wood will curl out of the tenon
cutter as it rotates. If the tenon cutter stops
cutting or does not cut at all, you will need
to adjust the blade.
Adjusting the Blade
There are two adjustments that can be
made to the tenon cutter. The one you
will use most often is the blade advance
to obtain the desired tenon diameter. The
second adjustment allows you to reduce
the thickness of cut.
To Adjust Tenon Diameter:
To adjust the blade, back off the clamping
screw about one half turn if you intend
to advance the blade, or fully relieve the
pressure if you need to retract the blade
(see Figure 1). Advance or retard the blade
advance screw by about one half turn,
retighten and test. Repeat until you can cut
a continuous shaving of wood. Then test the
tenon for size. To fine tune it, remember
that advancing the blade will reduce tenon
diameter and vice versa.
Note: Never adjust the blade without first
loosening the blade clamping screw as you
may damage your tenon cutter.
Figure 1: Adjusting the Blade.
In some instances, you may find that backing
the blade off to its minimum projection into
the main bore will still not yield a tenon
sufficiently large for a snug fit into your
mating hole. By cutting a 1/8"wide strip of
the included 0.010"thick shim and placing it
between the blade and the body (just behind
the blade clamping screw), the maximum
tenon size will be increased by approximately
0.020"(see Figure 2).
Note: Only one shim may be added in this
location; adding more will elevate the blade
beyond the point at which the blade can still
cut the tenon.
Figure 2: Shimming the Blade to Increase the
Tenon Size.
5
Blade
Advance
Screw
Blade
Clamping
Screw
Clamping Washer
0.010" Shim
1/8"wide

be sufficiently advanced. This will become
evident when the 1/2" long blade advance
screw bottoms out in its counterbored hole
before the blade is sufficiently advanced.
This is the time to switch the two screws.
Figure 5: Blade Mounting for Sharpening.
You can now sharpen the blade on a 11/2"
sanding drum mounted in a drill press. We
recommend a silicon carbide sleeve (80x
if you have a nick to remove followed by
120x for regular honing). Set the drill-press
spindle speed between 1000 and 2400 rpm.
Coat the entire bevel of the blade with an
indelible marker. Using the tenon cutter body
as the sharpening jig (see Figure 6), firmly
but gently slide the tenon cutter body and
blade into the drum. Do not hold the blade in
contact with the drum for extended periods of
time (more than a few seconds) or you may
overheat the blade.
Figure 6: Blade Sharpening.
Observe where the marker coating has worn
off. Continue sharpening until the entire
blade edge is clear of marker coating (at least
1/32"wide) and all nicks have been removed
(see Figure 7). Vary the height of the drill-
press table from time to time as you sharpen
to distribute the wear on the sleeve.
Figure 7: Blade Detail.
Remove the blade from the sharpening jig
cut-out. To remove the wire burr from the
edge of the blade, simultaneously swipe and
roll the outside radius of the blade across a
fine grit (1000x or higher) sharpening stone
or piece of silicon carbide abrasive paper on a
flat surface (see Figure 8).
Figure 8: Removing Burr.
Because the blade has been sharpened and
is now slightly shorter, it will require an
adjustment. Re-install the blade and adjust it
as previously described until you are able to
cut continuous shavings and the tenon is the
correct size.
7
Sharpening Jig
Cut-Out
Blade
Clamping
Screw Marker
Coating
1/32"
Troubleshooting
UNEVEN TENONS: This is usually caused
by an unsteady drill position while cutting.
Reduce your drill speed and concentrate on
holding the drill steady while cutting.
UNDERSIZED TENONS: These usually
indicate a blade that has been advanced too
far. Back off the blade and try another cut.
SCALLOPED TENONS: Applying excessive
force while cutting the tenon can result in the
cutter advancing at a rate fast enough to make
the tenon look like a coarse thread. Reduce the
inward force applied to the drill or add shims
to reduce the shaving thickness.
Continuing to rotate the tenon cutter clockwise
while withdrawing it from the tenon can also
cause the blade to cut on its return pass,
leaving similar scallops. This is especially
so on green wood, where some compression
may have taken place as the tenon was
being cut. Instead, pull the tenon cutter off
the tenon with the drill switched off, either
without rotating it, or by slowly rotating it
counterclockwise.
OFF-CENTER TENONS: Nothing can be
done about the most common cause of off-
center tenons — natural variations in wood
density and growth patterns.
The other cause, when the tenon wanders
off-center during the initial shoulder cut,
can be controlled to a degree. Smaller pieces
have less tendency to exhibit this because the
initial square-cut ends contact the bell-mouth
at a fairly steep angle. Wood pieces that are
near the upper limit of the tenon cutter’s
capacity contact the bell-mouth where that
contact angle is much shallower, thus not
as easily guided into the main bore. Press
the drill hard into the wood piece, only until
the tenon shoulder is formed. At that point,
reduce the inward pressure; otherwise,
a scalloped tenon may result. Putting a
substantial chamfer on the end of a piece of
wood that is at or close to the upper limit of
the tenon cutter’s capacity will make starting
the cut much easier.
PARTIAL TENONS: If the tenon cutter starts
cutting, then fades and eventually stops cutting,
this indicates that a minor blade adjustment is
required. Advance the blade a half turn or less
and retest.
If the blade adjustment does not solve the
problem, another cause might be an off-center
tenon. With large pieces of wood, the tenon
may wander off-center, producing uneven
shoulders and causing the tenon cutter to stop
cutting. Remove some of the excess material
to even out the shoulders, then continue to cut
the tenon.
UNEVEN GRIND WHEN RESHARPENING:
This usually happens when the drill-press
table on which the tenon cutter is resting is
not square to the quill. Adjust the table using
a straight pin chucked in the drill press and a
square on the table.
The other cause may be due to slight variation
in diameter between individual sanding
sleeves. The bevel on your blade may change
slightly as a result, but this will not affect the
performance of the tenon cutter.
8

be sufficiently advanced. This will become
evident when the 1/2" long blade advance
screw bottoms out in its counterbored hole
before the blade is sufficiently advanced.
This is the time to switch the two screws.
Figure 5: Blade Mounting for Sharpening.
You can now sharpen the blade on a 11/2"
sanding drum mounted in a drill press. We
recommend a silicon carbide sleeve (80x
if you have a nick to remove followed by
120x for regular honing). Set the drill-press
spindle speed between 1000 and 2400 rpm.
Coat the entire bevel of the blade with an
indelible marker. Using the tenon cutter body
as the sharpening jig (see Figure 6), firmly
but gently slide the tenon cutter body and
blade into the drum. Do not hold the blade in
contact with the drum for extended periods of
time (more than a few seconds) or you may
overheat the blade.
Figure 6: Blade Sharpening.
Observe where the marker coating has worn
off. Continue sharpening until the entire
blade edge is clear of marker coating (at least
1/32"wide) and all nicks have been removed
(see Figure 7). Vary the height of the drill-
press table from time to time as you sharpen
to distribute the wear on the sleeve.
Figure 7: Blade Detail.
Remove the blade from the sharpening jig
cut-out. To remove the wire burr from the
edge of the blade, simultaneously swipe and
roll the outside radius of the blade across a
fine grit (1000x or higher) sharpening stone
or piece of silicon carbide abrasive paper on a
flat surface (see Figure 8).
Figure 8: Removing Burr.
Because the blade has been sharpened and
is now slightly shorter, it will require an
adjustment. Re-install the blade and adjust it
as previously described until you are able to
cut continuous shavings and the tenon is the
correct size.
7
Sharpening Jig
Cut-Out
Blade
Clamping
Screw Marker
Coating
1/32"
Troubleshooting
UNEVEN TENONS: This is usually caused
by an unsteady drill position while cutting.
Reduce your drill speed and concentrate on
holding the drill steady while cutting.
UNDERSIZED TENONS: These usually
indicate a blade that has been advanced too
far. Back off the blade and try another cut.
SCALLOPED TENONS: Applying excessive
force while cutting the tenon can result in the
cutter advancing at a rate fast enough to make
the tenon look like a coarse thread. Reduce the
inward force applied to the drill or add shims
to reduce the shaving thickness.
Continuing to rotate the tenon cutter clockwise
while withdrawing it from the tenon can also
cause the blade to cut on its return pass,
leaving similar scallops. This is especially
so on green wood, where some compression
may have taken place as the tenon was
being cut. Instead, pull the tenon cutter off
the tenon with the drill switched off, either
without rotating it, or by slowly rotating it
counterclockwise.
OFF-CENTER TENONS: Nothing can be
done about the most common cause of off-
center tenons — natural variations in wood
density and growth patterns.
The other cause, when the tenon wanders
off-center during the initial shoulder cut,
can be controlled to a degree. Smaller pieces
have less tendency to exhibit this because the
initial square-cut ends contact the bell-mouth
at a fairly steep angle. Wood pieces that are
near the upper limit of the tenon cutter’s
capacity contact the bell-mouth where that
contact angle is much shallower, thus not
as easily guided into the main bore. Press
the drill hard into the wood piece, only until
the tenon shoulder is formed. At that point,
reduce the inward pressure; otherwise,
a scalloped tenon may result. Putting a
substantial chamfer on the end of a piece of
wood that is at or close to the upper limit of
the tenon cutter’s capacity will make starting
the cut much easier.
PARTIAL TENONS: If the tenon cutter starts
cutting, then fades and eventually stops cutting,
this indicates that a minor blade adjustment is
required. Advance the blade a half turn or less
and retest.
If the blade adjustment does not solve the
problem, another cause might be an off-center
tenon. With large pieces of wood, the tenon
may wander off-center, producing uneven
shoulders and causing the tenon cutter to stop
cutting. Remove some of the excess material
to even out the shoulders, then continue to cut
the tenon.
UNEVEN GRIND WHEN RESHARPENING:
This usually happens when the drill-press
table on which the tenon cutter is resting is
not square to the quill. Adjust the table using
a straight pin chucked in the drill press and a
square on the table.
The other cause may be due to slight variation
in diameter between individual sanding
sleeves. The bevel on your blade may change
slightly as a result, but this will not affect the
performance of the tenon cutter.
8

Power Tenon Cutters
05J41.01 –
5/8"
05J41.02 –
3/4"
05J41.09 –
7/8"
05J41.03 – 1"
05J41.07 – 11/4"
05J41.05 – 11/2"
05J41.08 – 13/4"
05J41.06 – 2"
Patented.
Replacement Blade and Accessories
Product # Description
05J41.11 Replacement Blade
(all sizes)
50J62.01 Sanding Drum,
11/2"× 11/2"
50J62.02 80x SiC Sleeves,
package of 3
50J62.03 120x SiC Sleeves,
package of 3
54K93.02 81/2"× 11"Micro-Abrasive
Sheet (15µ SiC, PSA)
99K31.01 0.25"× 0.10"Rare-Earth
Magnet
99K31.03 0.50"× 0.125"Rare-Earth
Magnet
Other Sizes of Tenon Cutters Available
Product # Description
05J42.01 Mini Tenon Cutter –
1/4"
05J42.05 Mini Tenon Cutter –
5/16"
05J42.02 Mini Tenon Cutter –
3/8"
05J42.06 Mini Tenon Cutter –
7/16"
05J42.03 Mini Tenon Cutter – 1/2"
05J42.04 Mini Tenon Cutter –
9/16"
General Safety Rules
1. Read the manual. Learn the tool’s
applications and limitations as well as
the specific hazards related to the tool.
2. Use common sense. If an action
appears to be unsafe, it likely is.
3. Wear proper eye/ear protection.
Everyday eyeglasses have only
impact-resistant lenses; they are not
safety glasses. Also use a face or
dust mask if the cutting operation is
dusty. Visitors should wear the same
protection.
4. Wear proper apparel. Avoid wearing
clothing with loose sleeves. Do not
wear gloves, ties, rings or bracelets
as these can get caught in moving
machinery.
5. Long hair should be tied back and
secured.
6. Do not work under the influence of
drugs, alcohol, or medication. Drugs,
alcohol, medication and lack of
sleep cause impaired judgment and
coordination and should not be
combined with power tool operation.
7. Use in an appropriate environment.
Power tools should be used only in
dry, clean and well-lit environments.
Exposure to rain or use in the presence
of flammable liquids or gases could
result in damage or injury.
8. Do not operate electric tools in
gaseous or explosive environments.
The spark of the motor may cause
the fumes to ignite.
9. Keep workplace clean. Cluttered
areas and benches invite
accidents.
10. Use correct power supply. Never
use a power source for which this
tool was not designed. It could
cause serious injury. If the tool is
equipped with a three-prong plug,
it should be plugged into a three-
hole electric receptacle. An adapter
should be properly grounded.
11. Keep cord away from heat, oil and
sharp edges.
12. Do not carry a plugged-in portable
tool with finger on the switch.
Safety Rules
These safety instructions are meant to complement those that came with your
power tool. We suggest that you reread those, in addition to those listed here
before you begin to use this product. To use this product safely, always follow both
sets of safety and general instructions.
2
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© Veritas Tools Inc. 2005
814 Proctor Avenue
Ogdensburg, New York
13669-2205 USA
1090 Morrison Drive
Ottawa, Ontario
K2H 1C2 Canada
INS-124 Rev. E
Printed in Canada.
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