WWBeds Face Assembled Alpha Murphy User manual

Alpha Murphy Bed
Assembly Instructions Face Assembled
Questions call 501.753.9699
Designed to exceed International ISO 9002
Standards for Residential Specifications
Revised 3/31/2021

Table Of Contents
Unpacking Your Bed
Videos
Installing The Springs
Mounting Lift Mechanism
Assemble the Bed Cabinet
Attach Bed Cabinet Securely to Wall
Install the Bed Face Panel Unit
Install Legs
Mounting the Face
Plug in the Lights:
Follow up to Initial Assembly
Additional Options
Bookcase Option
Desk Option
Desk Step D-1 | Attach the Desk Riser to the Desktop.
Desk Step D-2 | Attach the Desk Mechanism to Desk
Desk Step D-3 | Place Desk Hinge into Hinge Clip
Desk Step D-4 | Reattach Base
Desk Step D-5 | Check Operation

Unpacking Your Bed
Remove all boxing, foam, and shrink wrap and make sure all components are there. Each customer piece will
vary but in general you should have:
Do not throw away packaging until you are complete (smaller items could be lost in packaging)
Parts Provided
Tool Needed
❏2- Verticals
❏1-Top panel/Header
❏1-Headboard
❏1-Center Section
❏Unassembled face may be 4
individual panels and the metal frame
boxed
❏Package of screws
❏Extras may include:
❏Crown or base molding
❏Bookcases (adjustable shelves will be
packed separately)
❏Desk
❏Power drill
❏3/16” drill bit
❏Phillips bit
❏½” wrench
❏7/16” wrench or nut driver
❏Hammer
❏Flathead Screwdriver
❏Stud Finder
❏Tape Measure
❏½” socket
Additional tools if the Face isn’t already assembled:
❏5/16” socket, wrench or nut driver
❏#2 Square drive for your drill
Videos
To make the assembly easier, we created a couple of video playlists. As with these instructions, the videos are
generic and not all may apply to your specific set-up.
Play all Videos | Entire Playlist
Individual Videos
Parts
Tools Required
Adding Springs
Mounting the Lift Mechanism
The Cabinet Part 1
Lights
Cabinet part 2
Attaching to wall
Locking Spring
Frame Bolts and Straps
Legs
Mounting the Face
Finishing Up

Installing The Springs
Video: Adding Springs
NOTE: Some models may have the correct number of springs already installed. Check the chart and if your
bed already has them installed then skip this section.
1-1. The Number of springs in the Lift Mechanism will vary by size and application of the Murphy Bed. Check
chart below.
SPRING APPLICATION CHART
Please Note: These are recommendations only. Actual number of springs required will depend on the total weight of the bed face unit including the
mattress
and all bedding
BED SIZE
STANDARD FACE (NO DESK)
STANDARD FACE (ADDED DESK)
Single/Twin
4 Springs Vertical (3 Horizontal)
5 Springs Vertical (4 Horizontal)
Double/Full
5 Springs Vertical (4 Horizontal)
6 Springs Vertical (5 Horizontal)
Queen
6 Springs Vertical (5 Horizontal)
7 Springs Vertical (6 Horizontal)
King
8 Springs Vertical
9 Springs Vertical
After you have completed installing and checking the operation of your bed, you may find it necessary to add or remove springs to achieve the correct
lift effort of between 5 to 10 pounds.
1-2. There are nine locations for springs. If the bed requires an even number of springs, do not use the center
hole (#5 from the top). If the bed requires an odd number of springs, start with the center hole (#5 from the top)
and work outward in both directions evenly.
1-3. Hook the springs so the open ends are facing
outward. You may have to gently pry up the tension
arm and slide the spring under and snap them into
place in the proper hole, matching the same
numbered hole from the top of the mechanism
back plate. You should have an equal number of
springs on each side of the center hole.
1-3. Repeat for the other Lift Mechanism.
Use the same number of springs and the same
layout on both Mechanisms

Mounting Lift Mechanism
Video: Mounting the Lift Mechanism
NOTE: Some models may have the Lift Mechanism already
mounted to the verticals. If this is the case with your
Murphy bed then you can skip this section.
2-1. The left and right Lift Mechanism hole pattern will line
up with the hole pattern on the Side Panels (B). The bolts
will be fed through the side that has the counter sink holes
drilled.
2-2 Hole A will not have a standard nut. It is either a
threaded hole or it will use a disk like bolt “Arm Lock Stop”.
Get Hole A started.
2-3 Insert the bolt in the other holes and loosely tighten
onto the nuts.
2-4. Once all Bolts and Nuts have been started tighten all of
them.
Assemble the Bed Cabinet
Video: The Cabinet Part 1
● If possible, the Bed Cabinet should
be assembled in the room where it
will be used.
● Be sure Lift Mechanisms are
securely installed.
Headboard and Top Panel Installation
On a soft surface like a blanket lay out
the verticals.
3-1. Insert the headboard dowels into the
ends of the headboard (two on each side).
No need to measure, The dowels will align
the headboard to where it needs to be. With
the pocket screw holes facing toward the
back, insert the headboard dowels into the
side of the verticals.

3-2. Lay the verticals on the floor with the mechanism facing up and the head of the bed toward the wall.
3-3. Place the dowels in the end of the headboard into the dowel holes in the vertical making sure the
headboard screw pockets are facing toward the back and the finished edge of the headboard is facing what
would be up (when lying on the floor, finished edge will be away from the wall)
3-4. Secure headboard to the verticals with 1 ½” screws (4 each side).
3-5. Carefully rotate the headboard and the one vertical so that the other end of the headboard/dowels can be
inserted into the second vertical. The unit should now be face down.
3-6. Secure this other end of the headboard to the verticals with 1 ½” screws (4 each side).
Top Panel
3-7. With the bed still face down on the floor attach the top panel. Top panel should be flush with the top of the
verticals and the front.
3-8. Secure each side with five 1-½” screws.
STOP IF YOU HAVE LIGHTS
(If you do not have lights skip to Step 3)
Video: Lights
IMPORTANT: If you have lights, you will want to make sure your wiring and control box are in place before
mounting to the wall. These steps will be performed while the cabinet is face down.
Figure L-1a (Inset Lights)

Figure L-1b (Outset Lights)
L-1 Mount control box to the back of the headboard using 2” screws. Mount this centered and toward the
bottom of the headboard.
L-2. Mount the Touch Plate to the top/back of the headboard, centered, using a ¾” screw.
Note: drawing shows a knob instead of a plate. We now use a touch plate.
L-3. Run the thin single wire from the control box that has an Eyelet on the end, to the Touch Plate, and
connect it with a ¾” screw.
NOTE: If you have Outset lights there will be a second single wire connected to the back of the Touch
Plate. This wire will be routed to the second Touch Plate Location. If there are no bookcases the
location will be on the side of the murphy bed. If you have bookcases, the second Touch Plate location
will vary depending on the type of bookcase you have, but normally on the side toward the back.
L-4. Plug the female wire coming out of the control box into the extension cord.
NOTE: With lights on the inside (Inset Lights) there will be a small control box inline on the extension
cord.The small control box will be attached to the frame later. If your lights on Outset (designed to
overhang on the outside of the cabinet, you will have a standard light duty extension cord.
(see figure L-1a)
L-5. Starting from the top. Leave 3-4” of cord above, and insert the extension cord into the groove in the back
of the Vertical. With a hammer, lay the cord flat and carefully tap it into place.

NOTE: Some pre-installed models may already have the cord installed in the groove.
L-6. Plug the other side (top side) of the extension cord into the lights.
L-7. Plug the control box that you connected to the headboard into into a wall outlet. Test the lights. With the
outset lights the, lights should come on when the touch plate is touched on the headboard.
If your lights are on the inset style, you will have to also make sure the arrow on the small control box is
pointing up. When the arrow is turned down the lights could go off.

BACK TO REGULAR INSTRUCTIONS
Video: Cabinet part 2
Stand the unit up and into its approximate place in the room. Check that the cutout made to clear your
base molding is sufficient. If not make the height it needs to be. Lay the unit back down on the face,
and adjust the cutout.
Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick
Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick will be the same width (4”) Some drawings may show them different sizes.
If you have the added base molding this base molding may be attached to the Front Bottom Kick as in this
example.
3-9 Prep the Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick by adding 2 brackets on each end.
(NOTE: Some models this step may be done for you or you may see where the brackets were once put
on)
Lay both Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick face down on a clean soft surface. Mount the two brackets flush
on each end (about ½”-¾” from the top and bottom edge). Secure with ¾” screws.
(NOTE: Face will be the best side. If you can not tell which side is the best, then it will not matter.)
3-10. Attach the Bottom Rear Base. Both the Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick will be the same height. You
may want to use the better one for the front Bottom Kick. With the brackets facing toward the front, bring the
Bottom Rear Base in so that it clears any cutouts that were made for the base molding
3-11. Attach the Bottom Kick by setting it back 1” from
the front of the Side Panels. These brackets will face
the wall/inside. Secure with ¾” screws.
Special application: If you have added base
molding, the Bottom Kick may be attached to that
base molding and may not have the 1” set back. Also in some cases the Bottom Kick will be replaced
by added base molding.
NOTE: The small control box will be just sitting there and will be attached to the frame later.
(See the section on lights)

Attach Bed Cabinet Securely to Wall
Video: Attaching to wall
4-1: Find Studs
Prior to placing the cabinet against the wall, locate 3-4 studs on queen size (4-5 on King) or other wall frame
members at the level of the Top Panel (top of bed). Alert: The cabinet must be secured to studs or other wall
structural members or injury and damage could occur. If the wall is not a wood stud wall, use metal stud
screws, toggle bolts or concrete expansion bolts if necessary.
Tip: for help finding studs there are several websites of video available online, just do a google search. One
example: https://www.lowes.com/n/how-to/how-to-find-studs-in-walls
4-2: Attach to wall
Now that the cabinet is square and plumb,
pre-drill a hole in that backboard of the
Top Panel/header at the stud location
using a 3/16” drill bit. Only pre-drill that
back board and not the entire depth into
the stud. Fasten cabinet to wall using 3”
screws. Repeat this for other stud
locations.
If the wall is CONCRETE, MORTAR OR
BRICK Construction, use masonry screws:
Drill three pilot holes through the rear rail of
the bed header into the wall for a twin or full
and four for a queen size bed. Using a
5/32” concrete drill bit, drill through the pilot
holes into the wall 2” deep. Anchor the bed
by screwing 3/16 x 2 ¼” masonry screw
through the rear rail of the bed header into
the wall.
IMPORTANT:
After the cabinet is securely fastened to the wall, pull on the top of the cabinet. If any movement away
from the wall is detected, repeat the previous steps.