WWBeds Face Unassembled Alpha Murphy User manual

Alpha Murphy Bed
Assembly Instructions Face Unassembled
Questions call 501.753.9699
Designed to exceed International ISO 9002
Standards for Residential Specifications
Revised 12/14/2019

Table Of Contents
Unpacking Your Bed
Videos
Installing The Springs
Mounting Lift Mechanism
Assemble the Bed Cabinet
Attach Bed Cabinet Securely to Wall
Assemble the Face
Install Legs
Install the Bed Face Panel Unit
Frame Bolts and Straps
Mounting the Legs
Mounting the Face
Plug in the Lights:
Follow up to Initial Assembly
Additional Options
Bookcase Option
Desk Option
Desk Step D-1 | Attach the Desk Riser to the Desktop.
Desk Step D-2 | Attach the Desk Mechanism to Desk
Desk Step D-3 | Place Desk Hinge into Hinge Clip
Desk Step D-4 | Reattach Base
Desk Step D-5 | Check Operation

Unpacking Your Bed
Remove all boxing, foam, and shrink wrap and make sure all components are there. Each customer piece will
vary but in general you should have:
Do not throw away packaging until you are complete (smaller items could be lost in packaging)
Parts Provided
Tool Needed
❏2- Verticals
❏1-Top panel/Header
❏1-Headboard
❏Unassembled face (Normally 4 individual
panels)
❏Metal frame boxed
❏Spring Mechanism Box
❏Package of screws
❏Extras may include:
❏Crown or base molding
❏Bookcases (adjustable shelves will be
packed separately)
❏Desk
❏Power drill
❏3/16” drill bit
❏Phillips bit
❏½” wrench
❏7/16” wrench or nut driver
❏Hammer
❏Flathead Screwdriver
❏Stud Finder
❏Tape Measure
❏½” socket
Additional tools if the Face isn’t already assembled:
❏5/16” socket, wrench or nut driver
❏#2 Square drive for your drill
Videos
To make the assembly easier, we created a video playlist. As with these instructions, the videos are generic
and may not apply to your specific set-up.
Play all Videos | Entire Playlist
Individual Video | Phase 1 The Cabinet
Individual Video | Phase 2 The face
Parts
Tools Required
Adding Springs
Mounting the Lift Mechanism
The Cabinet Part 1
Lights
Cabinet part 2
Attaching to wall
Locking Spring
Face Part 1
Face Part 2
Frame Bolts and Straps
Legs
Mounting the Face
Finishing Up

Installing The Springs
Video: Adding Springs
NOTE: Some models may have the correct number of springs already installed. Check the chart and if your
bed already has them installed then skip this section.
1-1. The Number of springs in the Lift Mechanism will vary by size and application of the Murphy Bed. Check
chart below.
SPRING APPLICATION CHART
Please Note: These are recommendations only. Actual number of springs required will depend on the total weight of the bed face unit including the
mattress
and all bedding
BED SIZE
STANDARD FACE (NO DESK)
STANDARD FACE (ADDED DESK)
Single/Twin
4 Springs Vertical (3 Horizontal)
5 Springs Vertical (4 Horizontal)
Double/Full
5 Springs Vertical (4 Horizontal)
6 Springs Vertical (5 Horizontal)
Queen
6 Springs Vertical (5 Horizontal)
7 Springs Vertical (6 Horizontal)
King
8 Springs Vertical
9 Springs Vertical
After you have completed installing and checking the operation of your bed, you may find it necessary to add or remove springs to achieve the correct
lift effort of between 5 to 10 pounds.
1-2. There are nine locations for springs. If the bed requires an even number of springs, do not use the center
hole (#5 from the top). If the bed requires an odd number of springs, start with the center hole (#5 from the top)
and work outward in both directions evenly.
1-3. Hook the springs so the open ends are
facing outward. You may have to gently pry up
the tension arm and slide the spring under and
snap them into place in the proper hole,
matching the same numbered hole from the
top of the mechanism back plate. You should
have an equal number of springs on each side of
the center hole.
1-3. Repeat for the other Lift Mechanism.
Use the same number of springs and the same layout on both Mechanisms

Mounting Lift Mechanism
Video: Mounting the Lift Mechanism
NOTE: Some models may have the Lift Mechanism already
mounted to the verticals. If this is the case with your
Murphy bed than you can skip this section.
2-1. The left and right Lift Mechanism hole pattern will line
up with the hole pattern on the Side Panels (B). The bolts
will be fed through the side that has the counter sink holes
drilled.
2-2 Hole A will not have a standard nut. It is either a
threaded hole or it will use a disk like bolt “Arm Lock Stop”.
Get Hole A started.
2-3 Insert the bolt in the other holes and loosely tighten
onto the nuts.
2-4. Once all Bolts and Nuts have been started tighten all of
them.
Assemble the Bed Cabinet
Video: The Cabinet Part 1
● If possible, the Bed Cabinet should be
assembled in the room where it will be
used.
● Be sure Lift Mechanisms are securely
installed.
Headboard and Top Panel Installation
On a soft surface like a blanket lay out the
verticals.
3-1. Insert the headboard dowels into the
ends of the headboard (two on each side). No
need to measure, The dowels will align the
headboard to where it needs to be. With the
pocket screw holes facing toward the back,
insert the headboard dowels into the side of
the verticals.

3-2. Lay the verticals in the floor with the mechanism facing up and the foot of the bed toward the wall.
3-3. Place the dowels in the end of the headboard into the dowel holes in the vertical making sure the
headboard screw pockets are facing toward the back and the finished edge of the headboard is facing what
would be up (with lying on the floor finish edge will be away from the wall)
3-4. Secure headboard to the verticals with 1 ½” screws (4 each side).
3-5. Carefully rotate the headboard and the one vertical so that the other end of the headboard/dowels can be
inserted into the second vertical. The unit should now be face down.
3-6. Secure this other end of the headboard to the verticals with 1 ½” screws (4 each side).
Top Panel
3-7. With the bed still face down on the floor attach the top panel. Top panel should be flush with the top of the
verticals and the front.
3-8. Secure each side with five 1-½” screws. 3-3.

STOP IF YOU HAVE LIGHTS
Video: Lights
If you have lights, you will want to make sure your
wiring and control box is in place.
L-1 Mount control box to the back of the
headboard using 1-½” screws. Mount this
centered and toward the bottom of the headboard.
L-2. Mount the Touch Plate to the top/back of the
headboard, centered, using a ¾” screw.
Note: drawing shows a knob instead of a
plate. We now use a touch plate.
L-3. Run the single wire from the control box with
Eyelet to the Touch Plate, and connect it with a
¾” screw.
NOTE: If you have Outset lights there will be
an extra single wire connected to the back of
the Touch Plate. This wire will be be routed to
the second Touch Plate Location. If there are
no bookcases the location will be on the side
of the murphy bed. If you have bookcases, the
second Touch Plate location will vary
depending on the type of bookcase you have.
L-4. Plug the control box into a wall outlet.
L-5. Plug the female wire coming out of the control box into the extension cord.
NOTE: With lights on the inside there will be a small control box inline on the extension cord.The small
control box will be attached to the frame later. If your lights on Outset (designed to overhang on the
outside of the cabinet, you will have a standard light duty extension cord.
L-6. Plug the other side of the extension cord into the lights.
L-7. With a hammer, carefully tap the extension into the groove on the back side of the Side Panels. Lay the
cord flat in the groove without any twist.
NOTE: Some pre-installed models may already have the cord installed in the groove.

BACK TO REGULAR INSTRUCTIONS
Video: Cabinet part 2
Stand the unit up and into its approximate place in the room. Check that the cutout made to clear your
base molding is sufficient. If not make the height it needs to be. Lay the unit back down on the face,
and adjust the cutout.
Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick
Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick will be the same width (4”) Some drawings may show them different sizes.
If you have added base molding is base molding may be attached to the Front Bottom Kick as in this example
3-9 Prep the Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick by adding 2 brackets on each end.
(NOTE: Some models this step may be done for you or you may see where the brackets were once put
on  )
Lay both Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick face down on a clean soft surface. Flush the two brackets on
each end (about ½”-¾” from the top and bottom edge). Secure with ¾” screws.
(NOTE: Face will be the best side. If you can not tell which side is the best then it will not matter.)
3-10. Attach the Bottom Rear Base. Both the Bottom Rear Base and Bottom Kick will be the same height. You
may want to use the better one for the front Bottom Kick. With the brackets facing toward the front, bring the
Bottom Rear Base into so that it clears any cutouts that were made for the base molding
3-11. Attach the Bottom Kick by setting it back 1” from
the front of the Side Panels. These brackets will face
the wall/inside. Secure with ¾” screws.
Special application: If you have added base
molding, the Bottom Kick may be attached to that
base molding and may not have the 1” set back. Also in some cases the Bottom Kick will be replaced
by added base molding.
NOTE: The small control box will be just sitting there and will be attached to the frame later.

Attach Bed Cabinet Securely to Wall
Video: Attaching to wall
4-1: Find Studs
Prior to placing cabinet against the wall, locate 3 studs (you may only find 2 on a twin size) or other wall frame
members at the level of the Top Panel (top of bed). Alert: The cabinet must be secured to studs or other wall
structural members or injury and damage could occur. If the wall is not a wood stud wall, use metal stud
screws, toggle bolts or concrete expansion bolts if necessary.
Tip: for help finding studs there are several websites of video available online, just do a google search. One
example: https://www.lowes.com/n/how-to/how-to-find-studs-in-walls
4-2: Attach to wall
Now that the cabinet is square and
plumb, pre-drill a hole in that
backboard of the Top
Panel/header at the stud
location using a 3/16” drill bit.
Fasten to wall using 3” screws.
Repeat this for two other stud
locations.
If the wall is CONCRETE,
MORTAR OR BRICK
Construction, use masonry
screws:
Drill three pilot holes through the
rear rail of the bed header into the
wall for a twin or full and four for a
queen size bed. Using a 5/32”
concrete drill bit, drill through the
pilot holes into the wall 2” deep.
Anchor the bed by screwing 3/16 x
2 ¼” masonry screw through the
rear rail of the bed header into the
wall.

Assemble the Face
Lock the arm into place
Videos: Locking Spring and Frame Bolts and Straps
Caution: If possible have a helper assist in the setting of the mechanism and loading of the bed face panel. DO
NOT reach behind the tension arm when you are doing the setting procedure. To avoid reaching behind the
Tension Arm, use a pencil or screw driver to move the Arm Lock into place.
Holding one foot against the bottom front
edge of the side panel and using the
“Tension Arm Lever Tool”, pull the tension
arm out until you can set the arm lock to
the hex nut at the hole A (see drawing 13.).
This is the hex nut at the top front corner of
the mechanism.
Tip: If you set the “Arm Lock” on top of
the bolt before you pull the Tension
Arm back it will fall into place. Do not
put your fingers back there to while pulling it back!
5-1: Insert a Allen Head Bolts through Hole #1 (This
hole should be the one about 6 3/4” from the end of side
frame) on both left and right side frames (see Drawing).
NOTE: On some Models this Allen Head Bolt may
already be installed.
5-2 On each side, install 5/16“ (M8x20mm) Hex Head
Bolts from the outside of the frame through Hole #3.
Only thread the nut until it is flush with the Nut end. Do
not tighten.

Install the Bed Face Panel Unit
Video: Face Part 1

F-1 Lay the Bed Face Panels down on a non-scratch surface such as a carpet or blanket. Make sure they the
better side is face down and banded edges facing out and toward the foot of the bed. The foot of the bed will
be away from the assembled cabinet.
(Note: both sides are finished but there usually is a better side. Better should be facing down. Also there may
be edges that are raw with the plywood exposed. Make sure all these edge are on the inside and down.
F-2 Lay out the Steep Frame parts on top of the Face Panel. The longer pieces will the the sides and shorter
will be the foot. There are two larger brackets called Panel Savers, they will go toward the head of the bed
(side closest to the assembled cabinet)
F-3 Using Card #3 for the hardware. Start at the head of the bed. Align the Panel Saver with the screw holes in
the side rail. Connect the head rail to the side rail using the corner brackets and the
3/16”x1/2” (M5x12mm) black screws and Nylock Hexigon Nuts provided. You’ll use a 5/16 wrench (socket or
nut driver can also be used) along with a drill to tighten. (Assemble this section right on top of the face panels)  .
Refer to Drawing 12 to properly place
F-4 Foot side will be slightly different. Add the bracket to the side rail, but this time the bottom screw hole will
use a 1-¼” long screw and a Leg Stop. Refer to drawing 10 and 12.
F-5 Attach the bracketed side rail to the foot rail with the 3/16”x1/2” (M5x12mm) black screws and Nylock
Hexagon Nuts provided.
Attaching the Frame to to the Face
Video: Face Part 2
In this step you’ll need Screw Pack #7, Tape Measure, a drill with Phillips bit or a #2 square drive. We have
found the #2 square drive works best.
F-5: Start at the head of the bed (End closest to the assembled cabinet). The frame should be flush with the
bottom and there should be a 1” overhang on the side. The Panel Saver can be used a guide. Put the first
screw in the hole closest to the corner. Put a second screw in furthest hole in that first panel. For now only put
the two screws in each panel. Continue putting two screws in each panel.
F-6 At the foot of the bed the spacing should be 1” as it was at the foot of the bed. Make sure all gaps are
closed up between the panels and measure the side. It should be approximately 1”. If not divide the difference
and put a screw in the first corner. Continue putting only two screws in each panel.
F-7 Set the 3 Stiffeners into their approximately place. The first should be about midway from the top. The
other two should subdivided that, so that all three are equally spaced. (Note for a king there will be 5
Stiffeners. Equally space them inside the frame)
F-8 Measure the halfway point in between the frame and screw down that center stiffener on the one side.
F-9 Measure from the end to the Middle Stiffener and divide by 2 and attach the other two Stiffeners. With
those same measurements attach the other end of the stiffeners.
F-10 Finish putting in the rest of the screws in both the frame and stiffeners.

Frame Bolts and Straps
Three holes used in the frame starting at the head
end.
Hole 1. Starting with Hole #1 inset the Alen Head
bolt and secure it with a Nylock Nut on the inside.
Use the Allen wrench provided and a ½” wrench or
socket to tighten.
Hole #2. For now skip hole #2. This will be used to secure the bed to the spring are in a later step;
Hole #3. From the outside inset a 5/16” Hex Head Bolt. Get. Only thread the Nylock nut but don’t tighten yet.
Repete the for the other side.
Mattress Straps
Some customers will skip this step as the leg, when folded around, does a great job of securing the mattress.
Remove the screw that is in the bed right above the Stiffener, closest to the foot of the bed. Add a washer to
the screw and screw down the doubled up end of the strap. Repete for the other side making sure the strap is
not twisted. (see video)
Mounting the Legs
Video: Legs
You’ll need Hardware Pack 4, ½” wrench or socket, 7/16” wrench.
L-1 Note the order of washers. This is very important. Start with a
Nylon Washer and put it on the leg.
(NOTE: A second Nylon Washer on the inside is not shown in the
diagram.
L-2 Put the leg through the hole toward the foot of the bed.
L-3 From the inside add a second Nylon Washer (not shown in
picture), Still Filler Washer, Steel Holding Washer, and then the
Nylock Nut.
L-4 With a ½” wrench or socket tighten the Nylock nut but not too tight. You will want the leg to move freely.
Repete for the other side.

L-5 Attach the connector bar to the legs using
the 1-¼ bolts and star washer. See diagram.
L-6 Feed the 1 ¼” bolt with the star washer
thought the hole in the leg and into the Steel
Leg Rod. Tighten with a 7/16” wrench or
socket. Be careful not to over tighten. Repete
for the other side.
L-7 Check operation of the leg. Loosen or
tighten the Nylock Nut from step L-4.
Mounting the Face
Video: Mounting the Face
6-1. Lift the unit vertically to a height where the bolts in holes #3 are several inches above the top of the
Tension Arms. Gently fit the unit between the arms, tilt it back approximately 10 degrees so that the head end
of the until clears the Bottom Kick, then lower it so that the #3 bolts slide into the slots at the end of the Arms.
Be sure the Allen Head cap seats at the bottom of the slots on the tension arm. Slowly tilt the panel unit
back just enough to allow the #1 Allen Head Cap bolts to be fully seated in the notches at the bottom of the
Mechanism. As in Drawings 14, 15, and 16.
6-2 Continue to tilt the Bed Panel Unit outward to an angle of about 45 degrees, during which action you will
hear a click as the Arm Locks disengage. With your assistant holding the bed at roughly this angle, install the
#2 bolts and Nuts. Still holding the panel unit at this angle securely tighten the #2 and #3 nuts.
6-3 When all bolts are securely tightened, you may tilt
the panel outward to approximately 45 degrees to
release the arm locks. You will hear a click as they
disengage.

Caution:
Hold the Face Panel securely, Do Not let it slam shut. Balance is not achieved until the mattress is loaded in
the bed and will not stay down.
Holding the upper edge of the Bed Panel Unit, gently let the bed closed. If all is well, you should have even
clearance between the side edges of the panel unit and the insides of the Side Panels.
If the Cabinet is not square and the Bed Panel Unit binds try the following adjustments.
● Nudge the Bed Cabinet along the floor, pushing from the base of the Side Panel
● Shim (or reshiim the bottom of the Side Panels for floors that may be out of square.
Plug in the Lights:
Mount the small control box to the back of the “Frame and face Panel”. Remove the tape backing and stick the control
box to the back of the metal frame. Make sure the arrow is facing up and toward the wall.
Complete Bed Assembly
Follow up to Initial Assembly
Video: Finishing Up
Check that the Bed Cabinet is level and square
so the Bed Face has equal clearance of the
Cabinet on both sides, top to bottom. If the
Cabinet is leaning to one side, nudge it at the
floor level. If the top is uneven, place shims
under the Side Panels. If bed is too heavy to
operate easily or slams shut, remove the Bed
Face Panel and add or subtract springs. At this
time, you may decide to use one more or less
spring(s) on the left or right side Lift Mechanism.
7-1 Add Cover Plates
You should have a left and right cover plate and
two 1-½” wood screws. The cover plates have
tabs on them. Slide those tabs into the slot in the
top if the mechanism.
Slip the Mechanism Cover over the Mechanism so that the tabs on the cover fit into the notches. Line up the
hole with the barrel support and anchor in place using the 1-½” screw provided Repeat on the other
Mechanism.
7-2 Strap the mattress into place.
7-3 Add any accessories like crown or bookcases.

Additional Options
Bookcase Option
The bookcase will mount to the bed at the top using 1 ¼” screws. You can also put one inside the lower
section by pulling out a drawer. We may not have pre-drill for these holes so you can place them anywhere.
Desk Option
Note: On some applications we have put the screws back in
on the face (right above the black bracket) and also at the
bottom, into the Side panels. If this is the case remove
those screws and use them to assemble the desk. If not
you should find them labeled in your hardware pack.
Desk Step D-1 | Attach the Desk Riser to the Desktop.
If they are not already inserted, insert the hardwood dowels
into the bottom of the Desk Riser. The Desk Riser will attach
to the Desktop by inserting the dowel side into the dowel
holes on the Desktop. Keep in mind there is usually a front
and a back to the Desk Riser. Make sure the good side is
facing forward.
Note: the holes cut in the Desktop are elongated and allow left to right movement. Make sure the
edges of the Desk Riser and Desktop are even and insert the 1 ½” screws.
Desk Step D-2 | Attach the Desk Mechanism to Desk
The Desk Mechanism has holes in the Desk Upper Bracket that
forms an “L”. Attach the desk to the mechanism using 20 - ⅝”
pan head screws.

Desk Step D-3 | Place Desk Hinge into Hinge Clip
With the Dask rotated 90° up, place to loose end of the hinge into the Hinge Clip and secure with ⅝” flat-head
screws.
Desk Step D-4 | Reattach Base
Rotate the desk back down and re-insert the ⅝” pan-head screws that
were removed from Step D-1.
Desk Step D-5 | Check Operation
Check desk for level and open and close the bed to make sure bed is
operating properly.
Notes: