Axminster PROFESSIONAL AP2920B User manual

AP2920B
Bandsaw
Code 108517
Original Instructions
AT: 17/10/2022
BOOK VERSION: 01

INDEX OF CONTENTS
2
The symbols below advise the correct safety procedures when using this machine.
Fully read manual
and safety instructions
before use
Eye protection
should be worn
Ear protection
should be worn
Two Man
Assembly
HAZARD
Dust mask
should be worn
WHAT’S IN THE BOX
Fig A
Adjustable Feet for Stand and
Bolt to Hold Machine to Base
Fig B
Push Stick, Push Stick Fixing
Bolt and Mitre Fence
The machine’s Serial Number is
located on the specification label
as shown.
2003256
2022
What’s In The Box 02-03
Anatomy 04-05
Safety 06
Assembly 07-08-09-10
Set Up:
Blade Tension 10-11
Bade Tracking 11-12
Setting Upper and Lower Blade Guides 12
Thrust Bearing, Upper and Lower 12-13
Aligning the Table to the Blade 13
Squaring the Table to the Blade 14
Aligning the Fence to the Blade 14-15
Setting Fence Scale 15
Mitre Fence 16
General Use / Operation 16-17-18
Blade Types 19-20
Blade Change 21-22
Troubleshooting 23
Maintenance 23
Exploded Diagram/Parts Lists 24-25-26-27-28-29
Wiring Diagram 29
Declaration of Conformity 30-31

WHAT’S IN THE BOX
3
Fig D
Table Dust Outlet, Hose Ring Clips, Table Insert
and Blade Guide Rise and Fall Handwheel
Fig E
Dust Outlet Screws
Fig G
Cast Iron Table with Fence Rail
Fig F
Extraction Hose
Fig H
Fence and Fence Lock Assembly
Fig C
Tool Kit and Stand Fixing Bolts
Fig I
Self Adhesive Scale Strips for Fence Rail
Fig J
Bandsaw Stand Panels

4
ANATOMY
Blade tensioning wheel
Upper door locking knob
Lower door locking knob
Stand
Main saw frame
Lower wheel door
Fence clamp handle
ON/OFF buttons
Wheel tensioning
window
Push stick
Upper blade guide
Upper blade guide and guard
Mitre fence
Fence
Fence guide rail
Dust extraction hose
Cast iron table
Blade tracking window
Upper blade guide
adjusting wheel
Table alignment pin
Tensioning lever

5
ANATOMY
Upper wheel door
Blade tension
pointer
Lower wheel door
Upper saw wheel
Saw blade
Lower saw wheel
Micro door switch
Drive pulley
Table tilt
assembly
Upper blade
guide clamp
Tracking
control knob
Tracking
control lock MotorDust extraction outlet
Tensioning lever

SAFETY
6
The following is a list of safety precautions you must consider when using a bandsaw:
ALWAYS REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE POWER TO THE BANDSAW
WHEN MAKING REPAIRS OR ADJUSTING BLADES AND GUARDS.
ALWAYS REMEMBER TO READ THROUGH THE MACHINE INSTRUCTIONS SUPPLIED.
•Eye and ear protection are required when
operating a Bandsaw. Dust extraction and
respiratory PPE are highly recommended.
• Do not wear gloves, loose clothing, jewellery, or
any dangling objects when operating a bandsaw.
•Do not allow children to operate the machine.
•All guards must be in place and fully operational.
If a guard seems to be missing or damaged, adjust,
replace or repair immediately.
•Disconnect the power to the bandsaw when
making repairs or adjusting blades and guards.
•Remember to check the blade tension after a new
blade has been ‘working’ for 30-60 minutes. The
blade may ‘stretch’ slightly from new and the
tension becomes slack.
•Hands and fingers must be kept clear of the
blade, always use push blocks and push sticks
when feeding small pieces into the blade.
•Use only the recommended blade size and
type for the machine- see page 17-18 for
recommendations.
• Ensure all blades are sharp and in good condition.
•The blade guard/guide set must be lowered to
approximately ¾”(20mm) above the workpiece.
•Check that the blade is tensioned and tracked
correctly before turning the machine on.
•Never cut pieces smaller than the table insert size.
•Do not attempt to cross cut round timber free
hand. Clamp to mitre fence or make a jig to keep
the work piece stable.
•Long material should be supported at the
same height as the saw table.
•To avoid contact with a coasting blade, do not
reach into the cutting area until the blade comes
to a full stop.
•Make sure the blade is not in contact with the
material when you start the saw.
•Never leave the machine unattended when it is
running.
•Keep the table top and surrounding work area
free from excessive dust and debris to help
prevent slipping or tripping.
•Maintain a balanced stance at all times so that
you do not fall or lean against the blade or other
moving parts.
•Do not overreach or use excessive force to
perform any machine operation.
For more information -https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis31.pdf

ASSEMBLY
7
Stand Assembly
1. Fix the adjustable feet to each stand end panel,
(fig 01).
2. Fix the stand side panels to the end panels using
the eight bolts, washer and nuts, (fig 02-05).
Fig 01
Fig 02-03
Fig 04-05
Continues over...

ASSEMBLY
8
Attaching Stand to Bandsaw
1. Lay the bandsaw on its back to attached the stand
assembly to bandsaw with the four stand Hex bolts
and washers, (fig 06-07-08).
2. Lift bandsaw vertical, (fig 09).
3. Attach the dust outlet below the table with the
four screws provided, (fig 10).
4. Attach each end of the hose to the table’s dust
extraction outlet’s using the two ring clips, (fig 11).
Fig 06-07-08
THE BANDSAW IS A HEAVY PIECE OF
EQUIPMENT, IT IS ADVISABLE TO GET
ASSISTANCE.
TWO MAN ASSEMBLY REQUIRED.
Fig 09
Fig 10
Fig 11-12

ASSEMBLY
9
5. Line-up the holes to the underside of the cast iron
table with the ones in the trunnions and secure in
place with four button head Hex bolts/washers, (fig
13-14).
9. Locate the Rise and Full handle wheel, loosen the
two grub screws around the mounting boss. Line
up the grubs crews with the machined flats on the
drive shaft and slide the unit on. Nip-up the screws
to secure in place, (fig 19-20).
6. Locate the table insert and place it into the centre
of the table, (fig 15).
7. Find the fence locking assembly and slide it into
position on the fence rail as shown, (fig 16).
8. Loosen the two lift and shift handles on the fence
locking assembly. Line-up the ‘T’ slot to the base of
the fence and slide it over the mounting plate to the
desired position. Nip-up the lift and shift handles to
secure the fence, (fig 17-18).
Fig 13-14
Fig 15
Fig 16-17-18
Fig 19-20
Continues over...

ASSEMBLY
10
10. Find the threaded hole to the side of the
bandsaws column. Locate the push stick holding
screw and screw it into the column, hook the push
stick over the screw, (fig 21-22).
Fig 21-22
SET UP
Blade Tension
DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM THE MAINS
SUPPLY.
Ensure that all guide bearings are well clear of
the blade!, (fig 23).
Fig 23-24
Fig 25 Fig 26
Position the tension lever down in full tension
position, (see fig 24).
• Before altering blade tension ensure that the blade
is roughly positioned in the middle of the wheel, you
will need to lower the top wheel slightly by using the
tension lever to do this, (fig 25).
•Turn the blade tension knob clockwise to tension
the blade whilst rotating the top wheel slowly at
first by hand. A gauge at the front of the upper
wheel shows either tension on or tension off, (fig 26).
•The best place to check blade tension is on the left
hand side of the bandsaw. Around 1cm of blade
movement is recommended, (fig 27).
•Changes in blade width will have an effect on blade
tension. Keep in mind that too little blade tension
can cause blade breakage.
•After a period of use it is recommended to recheck
the blade tension and possibly readjust as bandsaw
blades can stretch slightly in use.
TIP: If the bandsaw is to sit idle for a period of time,
place the tension lever in partial tension position;
this will help prevent blade fatigue and tyre
deformation, and save wear on bearings and band
wheels.

SET UP
11
Blade Tracking
DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM THE MAINS
SUPPLY.
Fig 27
•Do not adjust blade tracking with the machine
running. “Tracking” refers to how the blade is
positioned on the wheels whilst running.
•The blade should track approximately in the centre
of both wheels, as shown in (fig 28) Tracking on the
Bandsaw should be checked periodically, included
as part of every blade change.
•The blade must be properly tensioned before
adjusting blade tracking. Make sure blade guides
bearings are opened up, backed off and are well
clear of the blade, (fig 29)
•Open the upper door and rotate the upper wheel
slowly at first clockwise by hand. Observe the
position of the blade on the wheel - it should be in
the centre, (fig 30-31).
•If the blade tends to shift to one side or the other
of the wheel, slight adjustment will need to be
made, start by loosening the locking knob, (fig 32).
•If the blade is tracking toward the front edge of
the wheel, rotate the tracking knob clockwise – the
upper wheel will tilt toward the back and the blade
will move to the centre of the wheel. If the blade is
tracking toward the back edge of the wheel, rotate
the tracking knob counterclockwise: the upper
wheel will tilt toward the front and the blade will
move toward the centre of the wheel, (fig 33).
Fig 28
Fig 29-30-31
Fig 32
Continues over...
Blade
approximately
centred

SET UP
12
Fig 33
Fig 34
• IMPORTANT: This adjustment is sensitive; perform
it in small increments and give the blade time to
react to the changes, as you continue to rotate the
wheel.
• When the blade is tracking properly at the centre
of the wheel, re-tighten the locking knob, (fig 34).
•Turn on the saw and verify proper tracking while
the machine is running.
•If further tracking adjustments are needed,
disconnect from power, and repeat instructions
above.
Setting Upper and Lower Blade Guides
Both top and bottom bearing blade guides will be
set in exactly the same position.
DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM THE MAINS
SUPPLY.
•Blade must be tensioned and tracked properly.
•Loosen thumb screw and move guide block by
turning the knob so that the front face of the guide
bearings are approximately 2mm behind the gullet
(curved area at base of tooth) of the blade, tighten
thumb screw, (fig 35).
Fig 35
Fig 36
•Loosen the socket screw and position each guide
bearing so that it is no more than 0.5mm away
from the blade, very close but not quite touching
the blade. A quick way to set this distance is to use a
piece of breakfast cereal packet cardboard between
the blade and bearing, which is approximately
0.3mm thick, (fig 36).
•Tighten socket screw when adjustment is
satisfactory.
Guide
Bearing
Socket
Screw
Maximum
Clearance
0.5 mm
Thrust Bearing, Upper and Lower
The thrust bearing supports the back edge of the
blade during operation, and is set so that the blade
will contact it only when the blade is under pressure
during a cut.
Gullet
Guide
Bearing
Thumb
Screw
Approx.
2mm

SET UP
13
Fig 37
• Loosen thumb screw and turn knob to move
the thrust bearing in or out until the bearing is
approximately 1mm behind the blade, tighten
thumb screw, (fig 37).
Aligning the Table to the Blade
•Place a straight edge along the side of the blade
(½” width blade or wider), with very light pressure
(do not deflect the blade). The straightedge should
contact both the front and back of the blade but sit
between the teeth, (fig 38).
•Measure carefully with a fine rule from the
straightedge to the edge of the mitre slot, do this at
the front and back of the table; the distance should
be the same, (fig 39).
Fig 38-39
• If the mitre slot is not aligned with the blade,
slightly loosen the four screws holding the trunnions
to the table, (fig 40).
•Nudge the table as needed, until the mitre slot is
aligned with blade (distances are the same front to
back), (fig 41).
•Tighten trunnion screws. (NOTE: After this
adjustment, the alignment of fence to blade
may need to be re-checked. See “Aligning
Fence to Blade section”
Fig 40-41
Continues over...
Gullet
Rear Thrust
Bearing
Approx.
1mm

SET UP
14
Squaring the Table to the Blade
Aligning the Fence to the Blade
DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM THE MAINS
SUPPLY.
•Loosen table locking knobs and tilt table to the left
(down flat) until it rests against the table stop screw
(fig 42).
•Use a square placed on the table and against the
left hand side of the blade (fig 43) verify that the
table is 90 degrees to the blade. Make sure the table
insert is level with the table surface or removed to
ensure an accurate reading.
•If an adjustment is necessary, tilt the table and
tighten the table locking knobs.
•Loosen the lock nut and turn the table stop
screw left or right to raise or lower the stop, rasing
or lowering the table height when in the down
position, tighten lock nut down against the
trunnion/table to hold table stop screw in place,
(fig 44).
•Unlock the table and tilt it back on to the table
stop screw to confirm the table is 90 degrees to
the blade. Repeat this process as necessary until
the table is at 90 degrees to the blade.
•Adjust the pointer indicates zero, (fig 45).
Fig 42-43-44-45
•Line up the fence with the edge of the tables
mitre fence slot and press down the locking
handle, (fig 46).
•If the fence is out of alignment, loosen the four
Hex screws either side of the fence clamping
assembly, (fig 47).
•Adjust the fence until its in alignment with the
mitre fence slot, retighten the Hex screws, (fig 48).
Fig 46-47-48

SET UP
15
Squaring the Fence to the Table
Setting Fence Scale -
Once the table and fence are squared and aligned
you can attach the self adhesive scale to the fence
rail.
•Attach the fence to the fence rail and slide it over
to lightly touch the blade, ensure that the blade to
fence contact is very light - do not deflect the blade.
•Slide the scale under the fence to bring the zero
mark to the red line in the lens, (fig 52).
•Make a pencil mark at any given point, (fig 53).
•Remove the fence then stick the scale to the
fence rail bringing it back to the pencil mark and
using a sharp knife trim off excess scale, (fig 54).
•Repeat for both right hand and left hand fence use,
(fig 55).
Fig 52-53-54-55
•Check to see if the fence is square to the table,
(fig 49).
•If not square, adjustments are made by firstly
slackening the four fence bolts, (fig 50).
•Adjust the four alignment grubs crews until the
fence is square. Nip-up the fence bolts, (fig 51).
Fig 49-50-51
Continues over...

SET UP  GENERAL USE  OPERATION
16
The following section contains basic information,
and is not intended to cover all possible applications
or techniques using the Bandsaw. Consult
published sources of information, acquire formal
training, and/or talk to experienced Bandsaw users
•Make sure the blade is adjusted correctly tensioned
and tracking, and that upper and lower guide
bearings and thrust bearings are set in proper
relation to the blade. Adjust guide post so that the
guide bearings are just above the workpiece, about
¾” (20mm) allowing minimum exposure to the
blade but maximum support during the cut,(fig 59).
Fig 59-60-61
•If using the fence, move it into position and lock
it to the fence rail. If you are using the mitre gauge
for a crosscut, the rip fence would usually be moved
safely out of the way, (fig 60-61).
Mitre Fence
General use / operation
• Slide the mitre fence into the slot around half way
along the table, (fig 56).
• Move the rip fence over close to the blade.
• Place a square against the mitre fence and rip
fence and check they are square, (see fig 57).
If adjustment is required, unlocking the main handle
then undo the two hex cap screws, pivot the mitre
fence until it looks square against the rip fence, lock
all in place, (fig 58).
Fig 56-57-58
to gain understanding and knowledge of bandsaw
operations.
Firstly ensure that you have the right blade fitted for
the intended cut - see the blade selection guide on
pages 17-18.

GENERAL USE  OPERATION
17
•Turn on the bandsaw and allow a few seconds for
the machine to reach full speed.
•Whenever possible, use a push stick, hold-down,
jig, or similar device while feeding timber, to prevent
your hands getting too close to the blade, (fig 62-63).
Fig 62-63
•Place the straightest edge of the workpiece against
the fence for a rip cut; or against the mitre gauge for
a crosscut. Push the workpiece slowly into the blade,
while also keeping it pressed against the fence or
held against the mitre gauge. Do not force the
workpiece into the blade, always feed through at a
slow and steady pace, (fig 64-65).
Tips:
•Make relief cuts whenever possible. A relief
cut is an extra cut made through the waste
portion of a workpiece up to the layout line. When
that intersection is reached by the blade while
following the layout line, the waste portion comes
free. This helps prevent pinching of the back edge
of the blade in the cut, (fig 66).
•When cutting, do not overfeed the blade;
overfeeding will reduce blade life, and may cause
the blade to break.
•Stand at the corner of the machine when making
rip or re-saw cuts using the rip fence, this will help
ensure that the timber stays in contact with the
fence for the full cut, (fig 67).
•When cutting long timber, the operator should use
roller stands, support tables, or an assistant to help
stabilise the workpiece, (fig 68).
Fig 66
Fig 67 Fig 68
Continues over...
Fig 64-65

GENERAL USE  OPERATION
18
Crosscutting
Freehand Curve Cutting
• Crosscutting is cutting across the grain of the
timber, usually whilst using the mitre gauge to feed
the timber into the blade. The right hand should
hold the workpiece steady against the mitre gauge,
while the left hand pushes the mitre gauge past the
blade. Cross cuts can also be made “freehand”
following a pencil line but you will find far more
accurate results if a mitre fence is used (fig 72).
•Curve cutting is something all bandsaws do very
well in both shallow and deep timber with the
correct blade installed. An ideal curve cutting blade
is a ¼” x 6 TPI - the narrower the blade the tighter
curve it can cut.
•No fences are used making these cuts and usually
no push sticks either so it is very important to ensure
that your hands remain as far away from the blade
as possible. If the timber is too small or the curve
too tight then the cut is better made on a Scroll saw,
(fig 73).
Fig 72
Ripping cuts
Ripping is cutting lengthwise down the workpiece,
and with the grain. Always use a push stick or similar
safety device when ripping narrow pieces. Rip cuts
can also be made “freehand” following a pencil line
but you will find far more accurate results if a fence
is used, (fig 69).
Resawing
• Resawing is the process of slicing timber to reduce
its thickness, or to produce boards that are thinner
than the original timber, such as veneers and book
matching. The ideal blade for resawing is the widest
one the machine can handle, as the wider the blade
the better it can hold a straight line, a fairly course
tooth (3-4 TPI) is recommended for this cut, (fig 70).
• Resawing is always performed using the rip fence,
use a push stick and often a feather board to ensure
straight safe cuts. Keeping your hands away from
the blade, (fig 71).
Fig 69
Fig 70-71
Fig 73

BLADE TYPES
19
About Axcaliber Bandsaw Blades
Axcaliber bandsaw blades are manufactured at
Axminster using advanced CNC machining, high
precision digital measuring equipment and
specialised heat treatment facilities. Detailed quality
checks are performed at each stage of manufacture
using the most modern inspection equipment. The
result is a blade which consistently cuts straighter,
has harder, longer-life teeth and which gives a
superior finish to the work. The final step in the
manufacturing process is one of the most
important; the weld. We have invested heavily in
this area through the purchase of precision welding
and grinding equipment and are, as a result, one of
the few companies worldwide able to offer a fully
guaranteed weld. Blades are cut accurately to length
then, using an IDEAL bandsaw blade welder, a high
voltage current is passed through the blade to
achieve a precision butt weld. The weld is annealed
to remove any brittleness and danger of fatigue and
then hand dressed to produce a perfectly smooth
joint.
Choosing the Right Tooth Pitch (tpi)
3 tpi (skip form)
Used for deep cutting especially rip cuts, this blade
will leave a rough sawn finish although slow feed
rate and high tension will improve the finish of the
cut.
4 tpi (skip form)
Good for general-purpose use with a degree of
cutting across the grain and with the grain, a
reasonable finish can be achieved with slower feed
rates and good tension.
6 tpi (skip form)
The ideal general purpose blade suitable for cross
cutting up to 150mm and ripping in sections up to
50mm thick although thicker sections can be cut
using slow feed rates. This tooth form will give a
clean finish and is very well suited to natural timbers.
10 tpi (regular)
Good for cutting plywood and MDF as well as
non-ferrous metals and plastics. The finish is good
when cutting natural timbers but the feed rate
should be slow and maximum depth of cut should
not exceed 50mm. When cutting metals reduce the
speed as much as possible especially when cutting
ferrous metals or cast iron.
14 tpi (regular)
A very clean cutting blade for plywood, plastics
and MDF although too fine for natural timbers
unless they are very thin sections (sub 25mm thick).
The 14tpi blade is very good to use on slow speeds
when cutting non-ferrous metals. A slow feed speed
should be used at all times with a blade tooth pitch
this fine.
Blade Width
Always use the widest saw blade possible; it is
stronger and will withstand greater feed pressures
without flexing. Consult your machine manual for
the maximum and minimum blade widths that it
will accept. The minimum radius of curve for each
blade width is as follows:
Blade width Minimum radius
13mm (1/2”) 63mm (2 1/2”)
10mm (3/8”) 27mm (1 1/16”)
6mm (1/4”) 19mm (3/4”)
5mm (3/16”) 13mm (1/2”)
3mm (1/8”) 10mm (3/8”)
Blade Length
This is determined by your machine model. A list of
the most popular machines and their blade lengths
is found in the catalogue.
Blade Tooth Form
Standard Blade Tooth Forms:
We supply bandsaw blades with one of two tooth
forms, skip or regular:
The skip tooth is provided on coarse tooth blades,
those with 3, 4 and 6 teeth per inch; it has a wide
shallow gullet with plenty of space for waste to
collect. Please note that the quality of the cut can
be adversely affected by sawdust packing between
the teeth.
Continues over...

BLADE TYPES
20
Ground Tooth Bandsaw Blades
•Diamond ground teeth staying sharper for at least
30% longer.
•Smoother cut over general purpose milled tooth
blades.
•Comprehensive range of lengths, widths and tooth
configuration.
Back Tooth Bandsaw Blades
• Specifically designed for curve cutting so ideal for
wood turners.
• Back tooth design allows better clearance and
tighter curves.
• Available in one width of 5/16” (8mm) x 4 tpi.
Premium Bandsaw Blades
•Premium blades made from M42 with 8% cobalt.
•Long life with high resistance to heat, abrasion and
vibration.
•Variable pitch teeth for wider ranging applications.
•Also used for cutting metal on horizontal
bandsaws. Blades are available in three variable
pitch forms 4-6tpi, 6-10tpi and 10-14tpi.
High Carbon Bandsaw Blades
•General purpose range of blades for wood and
metal cutting.
•Comprehensive range of lengths widths and tooth
configuration.
•Hardened and long lasting teeth.
The regular, or triangular, tooth form is provided
on blades with 10 or more teeth per inch where,
because of the reduced material removal, there is
less need for waste storage.