Fei Bao EF2000 User manual

Fei Bao EF 2000 Typhoon
Developed and written by Luke Cullen
The following instructions are developed based on a Kingtech K140 turbine,
Spektrum powerbox, and Spektrum and J radio. Think of the build as working
from the back to the front which makes it seem easier. Every step focuses on easy
maintenance when the need arises.

DISCLAIME :
THIS IS NOT A TOY; it’s a high performance model capable of high speeds and
damage to persons and or property if not used responsibly. The manufacturer
and its distributors cannot control how you assemble this model, what type of
equipment you use, or how you fly it. FB can assume no liability whatsoever for
any damages that may occur when you fly your aircraft. By assembling this
model, you are agreeing to indemnify and hold blameless the manufacturer and/or
his agents from any and all torts and liability associated with the use of this
product. Please inspect all parts before beginning assembly. If any parts appear
to be missing or suspect, contact your dealer or the manufacturer for repair or
replacement BEFO E you begin. Once you have assembled the aircraft, you are
the pilot in command and assume any and all responsibility for the use of the
model and any damages that might occur by flying or attempting to fly this
aircraft. /C model jets require a high level of skill in both their assembly and their
flying. If you do not feel confident in either your building or flying skills, PLEASE
seek assistance from more experienced modellers. It is advisable no matter what
level of skills you have to have a second experienced modeller go over your
installation after assembly. This is advisable during the build to use the inspector
who will do the final turbine inspection. A second set of eyes may spot a problem
you may have missed. If you have not flown a model like this before, it is HIGHLY
recommended that you get an experienced turbine pilot to do your maiden flight.
Very often, the first few seconds of a maiden flight are critical until the aircraft is
trimmed out, and having an experienced pilot at the controls can make the
difference between a wrecked aircraft and once that enjoys many hundreds of
flights. Be sure to select a suitable open field for flying...take the time to find a
large paved runway if at all possible, especially for test flights, until you feel
comfortable getting the aircraft in and out of smaller grass fields.
BEFO E YOU BEGIN:
Keep this in mind as you proceed:
Look at EVE Y assembly step you finish, double check what’s done and make
sure it’s correct. Even the smallest component is important and can cause the
loss of your airplane, so take the time to do things accurately. Correct problems if
they are wrong. Careful work will result in a long-lasting plane that gives you
years of pleasure, one loose component could result in the complete loss of the
aircraft and all the components inside it, and someone can even get hurt.
Use quality digital servos and alloy servo arms to increase strength and
durability. Also this decreases the chances of slop in surfaces which is important
to avoid flutter with such a fast model.

The FB EF2000 as it comes from the factory includes the following parts:
Accessories included:
Accessories included:Accessories included:
Accessories included:
1 x Stainless steel double walled bifurcated thrust tube
2 x wooden engine mount spacers for Jet cat engines
2 x large 1.3 litre saddle fuel tanks with plumbing hardware
1 x large 2.4 litre fuel tank with all plumbing hardware
3 x coils of coloured plastic airline
1 x brake valve
1 x retract valve
1 x bag of air Y connectors
1 x bag of 4 way air connectors
1 x bag of fuel Y connectors
1 x bag of fuel plugs
7 x servo linkages
2 x small air tanks
2 x large air tanks
1 x bag of servo mounts and hardware
1 bag of steering cable parts including wire and crimps
Multiple named bags with socket headed mounting bolts
Airframe parts included
Fuselage section
Detachable nose section
2 x detailed cockpits
1 x rudder and fin
2 x canards
2 wing panels
Canopy and removable hatch
Ducting for the turbine intakes
Plywood formers and trays
Ordinance for the wings and fuselage
Control horns

Servos used in this build
Elevons x 2 J 8711 24kg
Canards x 1 J 8711 24kg
udder x 1 J 8411 12kg
Leading edge slats x 4 Spektrum 6020 10kg
Steering x 1 J 8231

I have used SWB alloy arms for all of the flying surfaces to increase the integrity
of all the controls. They are 25mm arms which is ample for the amount of
movement you need.
I have tried to arrange a construction sequence that will allow you to keep moving
forward, rather than standing around waiting for glue to dry before you can
proceed to the next steps
Introduction:
You have chosen a model that represents the pinnacle of A F technology. While
there is not a lot of building to do, there is enough to keep you busy for a many
hours. Even if you have assembled other A F jets, we highly recommend
following our assembly sequence and procedures anyway. Chances are it will
save you a lot of time, prevent you from running down dead ends, and perhaps
remind you of a few small things that might end up saving your aircraft.
Just because the model is almost completely built does not mean you can rush
through the assembly. You need to employ fine craftsmanship every step of the
way, turbine models need critical care and attention.
Keep this in mind with everything you do, every part you install...look at the work
you just did, evaluate it critically, and ask yourself "is this going to potentially
crash my airplane?" If there is any doubt about the work you have done, back up,
and re-do it properly.
Adhesives: The correct adhesive to use for all procedures is Loctite Hysol 9462.
This is a very strong white epoxy that is thixotropic. "Thixotropic" means it does
not run at all, but stays only where you put it. It is infinitely superior to regular
epoxy, even slow-setting epoxy, for our purposes, because of this characteristic.
egular epoxy will run downhill with gravity as it dries, taking it away from where
it is intended to be.
A good example is in the hinges...using regular epoxy, a good portion of the glue
will migrate down away from the hinge into the inside of the wing as it dries, and
you won't even know it is happening. Hysol stays where you put it. The downside
of Hysol is it takes overnight to dry properly, but I have tried to arrange things to
keep you busy while waiting for glue to dry. I also highly recommend that you only
use a proper Hysol dispensing gun with the long-type mixing nozzles.
The short nozzles do not mix this glue enough and only a thin nozzle and gun will
let you fill the hinge and control horn holes properly with glue, you can't do it
mixing your Hysol on a flat surface and trying to get the glue in the proper place
by a brush or stick.
You can buy a complete Hysol setup including a mixing gun, nozzles and
cartridges of glue from your local hobby supplier. Consider it a great investment,
the glue is the best you will use. Two cartridges will be plenty to assemble your
EF2000

AI SYSTEMS:
The EF2000 uses pneumatic brakes and retracts so follow the steps and you
should have very reliable leak-free operation. Neatness counts so ensure all
airlines should be secured to the airframe to keep them from flopping around or
getting kinked. I used plastic clips to keep all the wiring and airlines both neat and
away from heat. The other very important thing is to cut off the end of each airline
dead square before installing it on the nipple. This is VITAL. You can either
purchase a professional tubing cutter from your dealer Intairco or similar, or you
can make up a jig to hold the airline and keep a sharp, new razor blade perfectly
upright as you cut. Either one works, just ensure that all ends of all airlines are cut
off dead square. Make sure all airlines are pushed ALL THE WAY onto their
nipples.
They should not need to be secured otherwise, but you can add fine wire safety
wraps if you like. Make sure all left and right matching airlines are the same
length, particularly the brake lines, or you will get uneven retraction or braking
action. It's worth taking the time to get everything pneumatic right the first time,
as having your landing gear fail to retract is not that bad, however having it fail to
deploy can really ruin your day and the paint on the bottom of your model.
FUEL SYSTEM:
The EF2000 has a very simple fuel system, I have used a 1.9 litre tank above the
ducting and 2 X 750 ml tanks on the engine rails. There is ample room for a UAT or
similar header tank. There is not much to go wrong, but like the pneumatic system
it does need to be done right the first time, with some careful craftsmanship.
As with the airlines, all fuel lines must be cut off square. I have used all Festo
fittings for all fuel lines or tie wire where Festo fittings are not available. The UAT I
used are from INTAI CO and provide all Festo fittings. Everything needs to be
dead clean including the inside of all the fuel tanks.

udder:
udder:udder:
udder:
The rudder servo mounts inside the fin and is secured by 4 screws.
ough up the rudder horns and check the depth where they sit on the rudder.
Check the positioning as the hole in the horn should be directly over the hinge
point. Hysol the control horns to the rudder. Hysol tips work well getting glue in
the hinge holes too.

ough up all the hinges with 60grit sandpaper before gluing them into the
surface to ensure a good glue joint. You will also need to cut a slot in the side
where the horn comes out for the linkage
Mount the rudder on the fuselage with the screws already fitted inside the model
as well as the 3mm bolt at the front of the rudder. Feed the wires for the servo to
the hole provided that goes through the fuselage.
Note the hole below the rudder on the fuselage is another 3mm mounting bolt for
the rudder.
Canards:
Canards:Canards:
Canards:
I used the tray provided and put a J 8711 servo in the mount. I glued plywood
under the mount to reinforce where the screws went. I didn’t use grommets to
make the mounting solid. Jets have very limited vibration so this is recommended
on all servos.

Use an incidence meter to guide where you set the canards. Check the wings and
then set the canards at the same angle. This will be very close for the test flight.

Wings:
Wings:Wings:
Wings:
The same methods are adopted for the servos and linkages for the elevons. Keep
in mind the position of the control horns; they have to be directly over the hinge
line. Make up extension leads for the elevon servos as they need to be longer.
Hysol the horn in place after roughing the surface, you may need to increase the
depth of the hole to get the correct position of the horn. Measure the position so
the hole in the horn is directly over the hinging point. Also keep the hole for the
linkage the same distance from the surface so they are both the same. Make up a
template so both horns are glued in the same position. Getting this geometry
correct makes the model fly smoother.

Mount the servo to the plastic mounts provided and then screw the servo to the
hatch with the countersunk 3mm screws. This is the leading edge slat one below
but the same method is used on all the servos.
Use Loctite on all screws to make sure nothing comes loose.
Bolt on the linkages for the elevons and adjust them to suit the length needed.

Mount the servos for the leading edge slats, I used Spektrum 6020 12 kg servos.
Use the same method to mount the servos with the plastic mounts provided. I
used heavy duty nylon servo arms and cut them off short. The room is limited in
this area so trial fit everything. I adjusted all 4 servos using the Powerbox
Spektrum Cockpit.

Where possible I used rubber grommets to protect the servo wiring.
Enlarge the holes where the grommets sit for a good fit.

Screw the covers provided to the wings to cover the servo arms and linkage. The
end where the surface moves will need to be cut and made a separate piece.

Sit the plastic cover on the wing to work out where to cut it. I screwed the pieces
to the wing so if you needed access to the servo you could remove it easily.
After the flying surfaces are finished I bolted all the rockets and tanks on with the
hardware provided. I did not add the tanks and rockets until after I did the test
flight. This was to ensure that the weight and drag of the model wasn’t too great.
The wing tanks mount with a 3mm socket head bolt on one end. You may need to
file the hole so the bolt slides easily. The other end has a 3mm socket head that
goes through the entire piece and has a nyloc nut to retain it. Finish the wings
before moving on to the fuselage to make the airline and servo extension leads
easier to run.

Airlines:
Airlines:Airlines:
Airlines:
Complete all airlines now so the ducting can be installed. It is also advisable to
run all the extension leads for the rudders, elevons, leading edge slats, and nose
wheel and canard servo.
Black air hoses are for brakes; keep these identical lengths to keep your braking
capacity equal. Clip air hoses to the leg to avoid it being kinked or near any heat.
I made a mount for the turbine ECU, fuel pump and valves so they sit under the
ducting.
Plastic clips keep airlines, fuel lines and extension leads neat and safe from
excessive heat or kinking.
All the doors need to remain open when the wheels are down. They close when
the wheels retract. Keep this in mind when plumbing the air hoses. Use all the 4
way joiners provided to make this job easier, I used different colours for each
operation which are as follows.
1. The main wheels and nose wheel are one system, red and yellow.
2. The doors open when the wheels are down and close when they retract. They
are one system, purple and clear.
3. The brakes are one system, black.

Ducting:
Ducting:Ducting:
Ducting:
For simplicity I cut the front ducting so removing it was easier. You must fit the
steering servo before all this is completed. The airlines and servo wiring needs to
be completed before the ducting can be installed too. All hardware is included for
the steering. I used a J 8231 digital as it’s important to use a positive centering
digital servo particularly because of the length of the nose. You will have to put
small amounts of movement on the nose wheel to be practical.
The ducting joins where the former sits. Once the turbine is mounted you can fit
the last round piece which finishes at the turbine.
To get sufficient air around the turbine I cut 2 small relief triangles 15mm wide
and 30mm long. This helps with the cooling of the exhaust pipe as well as the
turbine and bypass.

Trim all the ducting to fit around the intakes and allow for easy maintenance if
things need to be removed.

T
TT
Tailpipes
ailpipesailpipes
ailpipes:
Mount the nozzles to the fuselage with the 3mm bolts provided.
Add the detail pieces to the rear and underside. The piece shown below mounts
with a 3mm bolt too. I used Hysol to mount both pieces.
This piece is glued with Hysol to the bottom of the fuselage between the
exhausts. The next trim piece goes under the fuselage between the exhaust
nozzles.

Use the 3mm bolts and washers to mount the exhaust nozzles.
Test fit the exhaust pipe to check for length, this will determine where the turbine
mounts. Ensure you mount the turbine as far forward as possible. Leave a 10-
15mm gap between the pipe and the outer nozzle that is fine.