Intense M 2022 Series User manual

1
2022 //
PRO, EXPERT & FRAME ONLY
MANUAL

32
CONTENTS
6Component
breakdown
8 Setup guide
10 Remove wheels and
prepare bike
12 Install handlebars
14 Install rear derailleur
16 Install rear wheel
20 Install front wheel
24 Install pedals
24 Run through gears
26 Adjust headset and
handlebars
28 Adjust saddle height and
check tire pressure
30 Front suspension
setup
36 Rear suspension
setup
40 Final check
42 Geometry charts
44 Maintenance schedule
45 Carbon care
46 Parts listings
48 Parts kits
50 Torquespecications
Register your bike at:
www.intensecycles.com/pages/registerbike
For Technical assistance:
Email [email protected]
Phone [phone]
THE INTENSE M29
The M-Series of INTENSE downhill bikes have a
history and race heritage that is unrivaled. It is an
unbroken chain of evolution, from the original M1 back
in 1994 right through to our current offering… the
M29. This latest incarnation is the culmination of over
25 years of development, testing, tweaking, honing
and perfecting. With 208mm of travel, 29” wheels and
awless downhill geometry the M29 is built for speed
in the roughest and most brutal environments.
#ULTIMATEDOWNHILL

54
WELCOME TO THE FAMILY
Our team of designers, engineers and product
experts are focused on one thing every day: your
experience on the bike. We build bikes that are as
thrilling to look at as they are to ride, and we build
them for the select few of you who understand the
difference and refuse to settle for anything else.
From the early days of INTENSE, when founder Jeff
Steber worked alone in his garage, to today with our
crew of talented people working in our Temecula, CA
headquarters, INTENSE has been a brand built on
passion by forward thinkers who love nothing more
than to throw a leg over a sweet bike and head out
for a rip. We’re so glad you’ve joined us. Welcome to
INTENSE, enjoy your experience.
AT INTENSE WE HAVE ONE
GOAL - TO PROVIDE THE
RIDE OF YOUR LIFE

7
01
02
03
04
05
06
A
B
C
D
6
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8
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KNOW YOUR M29
COMPONENT
BREAKDOWN
6
Model: INTENSE M29
Model Year: 2022
Frame Travel: 208mm
Compatible Fork: 200-203mm
Headtube/Headset: ZS49/28.6 - ZS56/30
Frame Seattube Dimensions: 31.6mm
BB Shell Width: 83mm, BSA threaded
Recommended Max Tire Size: 2.6"
Brakes: Disc Brake Hydraulic
Max Brake Rotor Size: 223mm (with adapter)
Rear Hub: 157mm x 12mm through axle (boost)
Rear Shock Eye-to-Eye: 250mm
Stroke: 70mm
Mounting Bushing Width Front: 30mm x 8mm
Mounting Bushing Width Rear: 30mm x 8mm
1 2 3 54
1Grips
2Shifter
3Handlebars
4Stem
5 Brake lever
6Frame
01 Toptube
02 Downtube
03 Seattube
04 Chainstay
05 Seatstay
06 Rear shock
7Saddle (seat)
8Seatpost
9Seatpost clamp
10 Rear brake
11 Cassette
12 Rear derailleur
13 Chain
14 Chainguide
15 Chainring
16 Headset
17 Suspension Fork
A Upper Fork crown
B Lower Fork crown
C Stanchion
D Lower leg
18 Front brake
19 Rotor
20 Spoke
21 Tire
22 Thru axle
23 Rim
24 Crankset

98
Your new INTENSE M29 is almost ready to go, you
just need to do a few things to get your bike ready
for its rst ride. If you are setting up your bike from
the box, the next few pages will show you how to
assemble it. If you picked up your bike already setup
by a dealer then you can jump to page 30.
We have a series of in-depth and detailed videos
on our website that go through the whole process of
building and preparing your bike – including technical
videos on suspension setup, tuning your gears, and
much more.
GO TO INTENSE.COM/PAGES/TECHVIDEOS
If at any time you feel unsure about what you are doing
then please contact us at INTENSE or seek the help of
a professional mechanic at your local bike shop.
INTENSE +1 951.307.9211
WE ARE HERE TO HELP!
INTENSE M29
SETUP GUIDE

1110
STEP 1
REMOVE WHEELS
& PUT BIKE IN STAND
The packaging sections are individually numbered
to make it easy for you to remove everything in the
right order. When you rst open your bike box you will
nd an accessory box and the bike itself. Carefully
remove the wheels from the bike box and put to one
side.
While the bike is still in the box, loosen the seatpost
clamp with a 5mm Allen key and raise the seatpost to
allow you to put the bike safely in your stand. Tighten
the seatpost clamp to 5Nm. Only use the seatpost to
clamp the bike to the stand (A).
A

1312
STEP 2
INSTALL
HANDLEBARS
Using the 4mm Allen key remove the four bolts from
the two handlebar clamps of the stem (A) and put the
handlebars in place. Use the guidelines printed on
the handlebars to help position them centrally and
evenly. Check that the brake hoses and shifter cable
have a nice ow and are not kinked or twisted in any
way.
Replace the stem handlebar clamps and reinsert the
bolts (B), rst by hand and then with the 4mm Allen
key. Gradually tighten the bolts, making sure that the
bars are still positioned correctly and that the space
between the faceplate and the main body of the stem
is even both above and below the bar.
When tightening the bolts follow this pattern (C) to
ensure even clamping: top left, bottom right, bottom
left, top right. Finish off using the torque wrench to
5Nm.
A B
C

1514
STEP 3
INSTALL SRAM REAR
DERAILLEUR
Move to the rear of the bike and cut off any zip-ties
or packaging from the rear derailleur and chain.
Using a 5mm Allen key, screw the derailleur into the
derailleur hanger/frame (A).
At this point be careful that the ‘B screw’ is
positioned correctly so that it sits on the at notch on
the hanger (B).
Holding the bottom of the derailleur cage pivot the
whole derailleur toward the front of the bike (C).
There will be some resistance from the spring, so be
careful that it doesn’t spring back into position.
When it won’t go any further forward, and in a near
vertical position, press the small button (D) with a
padlock logo printed on it. This is the ‘Cage Lock’.
Gently release the derailleur cage. The derailleur
should now be locked in position, which will make it
easier for you to t the rear wheel. With the torque
wrench tighten the main derailleur bolt to 8-9Nm (E).
A
B
C
D E

1716
STEP 4
INSTALL
REAR WHEEL
Take out the rear brake pad spacer (A) – this is
usually orange, red or yellow plastic. Once removed
be careful not to squeeze the brake lever until the
rear wheel is in position.
On the non-drive side of the bike loosen the cone
spacer bolt using a 5mm Allen key (B). Listen for
the cone spacer to pop loose, effectively unlocking
the axle from the frame. If it does not pop loose, use
the tip of your 5mm Allen key in a gentle downward
prying motion and pop the cone spacer out (C).
Reinstall the cone spacer and bolt into the axle with
1-2 turns of engagement. Next, using a 5mm Allen
on the drive-side of the bike, loosen the axle in a
clockwise direction. Then remove the axle pulling
from the non-drive side (D).
With your rear wheel in position, align the chain on
the smallest cog of the cassette (E). Your SRAM
derailleur will already be in its ‘locked’ position
making it easier for you to install the wheel. Install
the rear wheel by carefully lining up the rotor with
the rear brake making sure that it slides inside the
caliper body between the brake pads (F), and the hub
spacers slide into the slots on the frame dropouts.
A
B
C
D E
F

1918
STEP 4 CONTINUED...
Once everything is lined up and in position, reinsert
the axle from the non-drive side of the bike (G) and
tighten using a 5mm Allen key in a counterclockwise
direction (H). Torque to 11Nm (I). On the non drive-
side, tighten and torque the cone spacer bolt to 14Nm
(J). This will effectively lock the axle into position.
You can now take the lock off the rear derailleur. To
do this, gently push the derailleur cage forward a
little (K) and the cage lock will automatically release.
Slowly let the derailleur arm move backwards into
position.
G
H
J K
I

2120
STEP 5
INSTALL
FRONT WHEEL
Just like the rear wheel, remove all packaging from
the front wheel (A) making sure the hub end caps are
still in the correct place and that they haven’t been
pulled off by accident. If they do come off, just press
them back into position. Then remove the brake
pad spacer (B) (usually orange, yellow or red). At
this stage be careful not to pull the front brake lever
until the wheel has been installed. Do not touch the
brake rotors with your hands or gloves as this may
contaminate them.
EXPERT BUILD (DVO)
With a 4mm Allen key loosen the pinch bolts on the
front lower legs. Then with a 6mm Allen key in a
counterclockwise direction remove the front axle from
the non-drive side of the bike.
PRO BUILD (ÖHLINS)
With a 5mm Allen key loosen the pinch bolts on the
front lower legs. Then with the same 5mm Allen key in
a counterclockwise direction remove the front axle (C)
from the drive-side of the bike.
Position the wheel so that the rotor ts into the brake
caliper body and that the hub body slots into the
grooves on the fork (D). Once everything is aligned
reinstall front axle.
A B
C D

2322
F
E
STEP 5 CONTINUED...
EXPERT BUILD (DVO)
Install the front wheel into the dropouts and insert
the axle through the dropouts and hub. With a 6mm
Allen key, and applying some inward pressure, tighten
the axle in a clockwise direction. Torque to 7Nm.
Compress the fork a couple of times to ensure that the
lower leg has settled into its natural alignment. Then
with your 4mm Allen key torque the two pinch bolts
to 7Nm.
PRO BUILD (ÖHLINS)
With a 5mm Allen key, and applying some inward
pressure, tighten the axle (E) in a clockwise direction.
Torque to 7Nm. Compress the fork a couple of times
to ensure that the lower leg has settled into its natural
alignment. Then with your 5mm Allen key tighten and
torque the two lower leg pinch bolts (F) to 7Nm.

2524
STEP 6
INSTALL
PEDALS
(A) Pedals are somewhat of a personal choice – some
people prefer at pedals, others clipless, and then of
course there are all the different brands and designs.
So please take note, your bike does not come supplied
with pedals, so that you can choose your own. Bicycles
have specic left and right pedals and the left-hand
side pedal has an opposite thread on it, meaning that it
tightens up in a counterclockwise direction.
STEP 7
RUN THROUGH
THE GEARS
Now is a good time to run through the gears to check
that they are working correctly. To do this turn the
cranks so that the wheel begins to spin, then shift
through the gears (being careful not to trap anything in
the chain) (B). The bikes are setup and tuned before
packaging, however during the shipping process it
is possible for the drivetrain to become slightly out
of tune. Minor adjustments may be required. Please
check out our Tech Video on drivetrain adjustments.
A
B

2726
STEP 8
ADJUST HEADSET
& HANDLEBARS
A B
C
D F
E
If your headset feels a little loose, undo the three pinch
bolts on the top crown of your forks with a 4mm Allen
key (A,B,C). Two of the pinch bolts are located on the
forward-facing surface and the third bolt is located on
the back side near the steerer tube.
With a 5mm Allen key set the headset preload by gently
tightening the top cap bolt by a quarter clockwise turn
(2-4Nm) (D). Retighten the stem clamp bolts and check
the headset again. If the bars don’t turn smoothly it is
too tight, so repeat the process, but this time slacken
the top cap bolt off a little, or if it is too loose, continue
to tighten. Once tight go back and tighten the three
pinch bolts on the top crown to 7Nm (E,F).

2928
STEP 9
ADJUST SADDLE HEIGHT
STEP 10
CHECK TIRE PRESSURE
Saddle height on a downhill bike comes down to
personal preference. Adjust your saddle to your
preferred height (A), check that it is straight and then
tighten the seat clamp with a 5mm Allen key to 5Nm.
The ideal tire pressure setting is determined by four
main factors: rider weight, type of terrain, design/
construction of tire and the desired balance of comfort
and traction. The pressures here are a suggested
starting point and can typically range +/- 5psi. Front:
26psi, rear: 29psi. It is always a good idea to inspect
your tires for tears and punctures before and after
every ride (B).
A
B

3130
STEP 11
FRONT SUSPENSION
SET UP
Out of the box your fork settings are generally set up
for a rider weighing between 130-140lb (59-63.5kg).
To adjust the suspension to your weight simply add
some air or take some out. Your weight should be
calculated when you are in full riding gear (including
helmet, and if you regularly use one, your backpack).
ADJUSTING AIR PRESSURE PRO BUILD
(Öhlins): The Öhlins fork on the PRO build has two
air adjustments on the right leg, one for the ramp-up
chamber and the other for the main air chamber. Using
the chart opposite (also to be found on the bottom of
the right-hand fork leg) nd your weight (in full riding
gear) and reference the recommended air pressure for
both the main and ramp-up air chambers.
The Schrader valve (car tire type) for the ramp-up
chamber can be found on the lower right fork leg
(under a gold protective cap) (A), and the main
air chamber is on the upper right fork leg (under a
gold-colored protective top cap) (B). First set the air
pressure in the ramp-up chamber, and then the main
chamber. Once set, push down on the forks a few
times to equalize the pressure in the system.
ADJUSTING AIR PRESSURE EXPERT BUILD
(DVO): The DVO fork on the EXPERT build has one
main air chamber on the left leg. The Schrader valve
(car tire type) can be found on the upper left fork leg
under a silver protective cap.
Please refer to the air pressure chart opposite for
recommended settings.
B
A
FORK: PRO ÖHLINS DH38 / EXPERT DVO ONYX DC D1
SUGGESTED STARTING POINTS FOR SETTING FORK SAG
RIDER WEIGHT PRO BUILD ÖHLINS EXPERT BUILD DVO
(lbs) (kgs) PRESSURE (psi) PRESSURE (psi)
MAIN CHAMBER RAMP-UP CHAMBER
120-130 54-59 80-85 190-205 80-85
130-140 59-64 85-90 190-205 80-85
140-150 64-68 90-95 190-205 85-90
150-160 68-73 95-100 205-230 85-90
160-170 73-77 100-105 205-230 90-95
170-180 77-82 105-110 205-230 90-95
180-190 82-86 110-115 205-230 95-100
190-200 86-91 115-120 205-230 95-100
200-210 91-95 120-125 205-230 100-105
210-220 95-100 125-130 205-230 100-105
220-230 100-104 130-135 225-250 105-110
230-240 104-109 135-140 225-250 105-110
240-250 109-113 140-145 225-250 110-120
It is important to get good base
settings for your suspension that
you are happy with. It is easy to
get confused with all the different
variables of settings, so remember
to write everything down as you
go along. You can take note of air
pressure, rebound clicks and any
other suspension details.

3332
STEP 12
SETTING FORK SAG
STEP 13
SETTING FORK REBOUND
You now need to measure the ‘sag’ of the fork. Sag is
important as it allows the fork to work properly. With
the help of a friend sit on the bike in a normal riding
position in full riding gear, pedals level. Bounce up
and down on the bike a few times and then gently sit
back down. Do not touch the brakes.
For the PRO model (Öhlins) on the right fork leg is a
blue rubber O-ring (A). On the EXPERT model the
rubber O-ring is on the left leg and is green. Get your
friend to slide this down until it touches the top of the
fork seal. Carefully get off the bike without further
compressing the forks (your friend can help here by
holding the handlebars so they don’t drop).
When the bike is unweighted, the fork will be fully
extended and leave a gap between the fork seal and
the O-ring. The distance between these two is your
sag measurement. You are looking for approximately
15-25% sag – change 34mm to: 30-50mm for the
PRO model and 30.5-50.75mm for the EXPERT
model. Use a ruler to measure the gap.
Adjust the air pressure in your forks until you reach
the correct sag measurement (B). If you don’t have
enough air just pump more in using the shock pump
that came with the tool kit. If you have too much air
just briey press the small red button on the shock
pump, this will release small amounts of air from the
system. Once nished, replace the protective caps.
The rebound setting on your fork is how quickly
your suspension reacts to impacts and returns to
its normal position after compression. Your rebound
settings can vary depending on the terrain you are
riding on, your riding style, etc. A fast rebound setting
is good when you need the fork to react quickly over
continuous rough ground, but not so good, if for
example, you are going off a lot of big drops where
the faster rebound may pitch you forward too quickly.
As with most things, nding a middle ground is best
– not too fast, and not too slow – and then tweaking
and rening as you begin to understand how your
bike and suspension feels and reacts.
On the PRO (Öhlins) model the rebound adjuster
for the fork is a gold dial located underneath a gold
protective cap on the bottom of the left leg (A).
For the EXPERT (DVO) model the rebound adjuster
for the fork is a silver dial located on the bottom of the
right leg.
The rebound adjustment is dependent on your air
pressure setting. For example, higher air pressure
requires more rebound damping. Use your air
pressure to nd your rebound setting. Turn your
rebound knob to the closed position (fully clockwise)
until it stops. Then back it out (counterclockwise) to
the number of clicks shown in table on page 34.
A A
BREBOUND
Open
(counterclockwise)
Least amount of rebound
damping. Fork rebounds
fastest.
Closed
(clockwise)
Most amount of rebound
damping. Fork rebounds
slowest.

3534
HIGH AND LOW SPEED
COMPRESSION ADJUSTERS
Different models of forks (and rear shocks) have
different levels of adjustment that will enable you
to ne tune your suspension. We recommend
that you refer to each manufacturer’s website or
instruction manual for full technical details and further
information on the specic fork (or rear shock) that
you have on your bike.
www.ohlins.com
www.dvosuspension.com
Two of the most common adjustments are High and
Low Speed Compression. High and Low do not refer
to the speed that you are traveling at, but rather the
speed that the fork or shock moves as it reacts to trail
obstacles and rider inputs.
Pedaling or weighting the bike through turns are two
good examples of where Low Speed Compression
adjustment (LSC) can affect the suspension feel.
Braking bumps or big drops (where the suspension
moves quickly through its travel) are good examples of
where High Speed Compression (HSC) adjustment can
help. The more compression damping you have the
rmer the suspension will feel, offering more support.
FORK: PRO ÖHLINS DH38 / EXPERT DVO ONYX DC D1
SUGGESTED REBOUND SETTINGS
RIDER WEIGHT PRO BUILD ÖHLINS EXPERT BUILD DVO
(lbs) (kgs) # of clicks # of clicks
120-130 54-59 12-16 10-14
130-140 59-64 12-16 10-14
140-150 64-68 8-12 8-12
150-160 68-73 8-12 8-12
160-170 73-77 8-12 6-10
170-180 77-82 8-12 6-10
180-190 82-86 8-12 6-10
190-200 86-91 8-12 6-10
200-210 91-95 8-12 6-10
210-220 95-100 8-12 6-10
220-230 100-104 5-8 4-8
230-240 104-109 5-8 4-8
240-250 109-113 5-8 4-8
(Number of clicks from fully closed. Each click above represents a counterclockwise turning motion)
Above: Ohlins High (black dial)
and Low Speed (blue dial)
Compression Adjustment.
Above: DVO High Speed (black
dial) and Low Speed (green dial)
Compression Adjustment.

3736
STEP 14
REAR SUSPENSION SET UP
First check the spring rate-chart on this page to make sure that the spring tted on
your M29 is within range for your rider weight. If the spring is too hard or too soft
you will need to change it. Please see our Tech Videos section on our website to
see how to change the coil on your shock.
SPRING RATES AS STANDARD
PRO MODEL: Öhlins TTX22M COIL
457 (M) 502 (L) 548 (XL)
Frame travel: 208mm. Shock stroke: 70mm (2.76"). Shock eye-to-eye: 250mm.
Shock sag: 35% when sitting on the bike.
Shock preload: Min-1.5 turns / Max-5 turns.
STEP 15
SETTING SHOCK SAG
Just as you did with your forks you now need to set
the sag on your rear shock. The optimal sag on your
rear shock is 35% of the piston’s movement inside the
shock body (stroke) for both the Öhlins equipped PRO
model and the DVO on the EXPERT. The distance
between the two shock mounting bolts (eye-to-eye)
without a rider on the bike is 250mm for both shocks.
Sag at 35% (of the piston) equates to a 24.5mm
reduction in the eye-to-eye measurement. So the
correct eye-to-eye measurement for 35% sag on both
of these shocks is 225.5mm (250-24.5 = 225.5mm).
With the help of a friend, sit in a normal riding
position in full riding gear on the bike, pedals level
(A). Bounce up and down on the bike a few times
(B) and then gently sit back down. While still sitting
on the bike, and with the shock slightly compressed
(sag), measure the length of the shock (eye-to-eye)
and record that number. To check the amount of
sag just minus the original number from the new
measurement, that will be your sag measurement.
If the eye-to-eye measurement is 225.5mm that will
give you a sag measurement of 24.5mm, which gives
you the exact 35% sag rate you are looking for.
While adjusting your rear shock sag, keep in mind
that you must keep your total turns of spring preload
at a minimum of 1.5 turns and a maximum of 5 turns.
If your sag number is higher than 35%, increase the
spring preload by turning the preload collar clockwise
(2-5 turns) (C). If your sag number is lower than 35%,
decrease the spring preload by turning the preload
collar counterclockwise (minimum of two turns from
base). Check the sag measurement again and adjust
as necessary. If you cannot get the correct sag you
will you will need the next corresponding spring rate
to get your sag dialed in.
A
B
C
SHOCK: PRO ÖHLINS TTX22MCOIL, EXPERT DVO JADE COIL
SUGGESTED STARTING POINTS FOR SETTING UP YOUR SHOCK
RIDER SPRING RATE REBOUND LSC HSC
WEIGHT CLICKS
PRO EXPERT
(lbs) (kgs) Öhlins DVO PRO / EXPERT P EP E
100 45 251 250 7 11 16 14 - 12
110 50 251 250 7 10 16 14 - 12
120 54 343 350 7 9 15 13 - 11
130 59 365 350 6 9 15 13 - 11
140 63.5 365 400 6 8 14 12 - 10
150 68 411 400 6 8 14 12 - 10
160 73 457 450 6 7 13 11 - 9
170 77 502 450 5 7 13 11 - 9
180 82 502 500 5 6 12 10 - 8
190 86 548 500 5 6 12 10 - 8
200 91 548 550 4 5 10 9 - 7
210 95 605 550 4 5 10 9 - 7
220 100 605 600 4 4 9 8 - 6
230 104 640 600 3 3 9 8 - 6
240 109 640 650 3 2 8 7 - 5
250 113 674 650 3 1 8 7 - 5
EXPERT MODEL: DVO JADE COIL
450 (M) 500 (L) 550 (XL)
(Rebound: Clicks out from fully closed. Low speed and high speed refers to compression)
PRELOAD
COLLAR

3938
STEP 16
SETTING SHOCK REBOUND
Just like for your fork, the rebound setting on your rear
shock is how quickly it reacts to impacts and returns
to its normal position after compression. Your rebound
settings can vary depending on the terrain you are
riding on, your riding style, etc. As with most things,
nding a middle ground is best – not too fast, and not
too slow – and then tweaking and rening as you begin
to understand your bike and suspension feel.
On the PRO (Öhlins) model the rebound adjuster for
the rear shock is a gold dial (A), and for the EXPERT
(DVO) model it is a green dial (B), both are located
on the bottom of the shock by the end of the coil.
A B HIGH AND LOW SPEED COMPRESSION
ADJUSTERS
As previously mentioned regarding your fork’s
suspension settings, different models of rear shocks
have different levels of adjustment that will enable
you to ne tune your suspension. We recommend
that you refer to each manufacturer’s website for full
technical details and further info on the specic shock
that you have on your bike.
www.ohlins.com
www.dvosuspension.com
Two of the most common adjustments are High and
Low Speed Compression. High and Low do not refer
to the speed that you are traveling at, but rather
the speed that the shock moves as it reacts to trail
obstacles and rider inputs.
Pedaling or weighting the bike through turns are two
good examples of where Low Speed Compression
adjustment (LSC) can affect the suspension feel.
Braking bumps or big drops (where the suspension
moves quickly through its travel) are good examples
of where High Speed Compression (HSC) adjustment
can help. The more compression damping you have
the rmer the suspension will feel, offering more
support.
On the Öhlins equipped PRO model the black dial
(C) is high speed compression and blue one is low
speed compression (D). For DVO equipped EXPERT
models the compression is adjusted by a black dial
on the top of the shock reservoir (E).
C
D
E
2019-2022 INTENSE M29 frame is not compatible with
MY21-22 FOX DHX2 COIL and FOX FLOAT X2 rear shock
due to space constraints within the frame and new shock shape.
WARNING