MAKERGEAR M2 User manual

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Beginner’s Guide to Getting Started with the M2
Congratulations on your purchase! You’ve made an excellent choice for your 3D printing needs!
If you’re new to the world of 3D printing, there is a lot to take in at first, but there are also a lot of
resources to help you if you get stuck. This first page tells you how to get to that help. To make the
resources immediately available, two of the first things you’ll want to do are register your M2,
and join the forum.
To Register Your Printer:
Send an email with your Name, Address and the Serial Number from the printer to:
[email protected]
(The serial number is located above the bar code, on a sticker on the back of the machine.)
To Join the MakerGear Users Forum:
http://forum.makergear.com/
The forum is your best place for getting a quick answer. It has a lot of users who’ve been around the
block a few times. (It’s a safe bet that you’re not the first person to encounter whatever problem you
run into.)
Or, if you have no issues to resolve, feel free to post there and just introduce yourself….it’s a friendly
bunch, and every one of us had to get started the same way.
(Usual forum rules apply –keep it friendly, no bashing, hate-speech, inflammatory rhetoric, actively
promoting other printers, etc. MakerGear has not expressly forbidden it, but you’ll run the risk of
ticking off a lot of people who think the M2 is the “bee’s knees”, and I’ll tell you up front, they’ll
defend it. Final discretion rests with the moderators. If they cause a ruckus, or have the potential to
do so, you can expect your posts to start disappearing, so keep it polite.)
To Contact MakerGear Technical Support:
You can also contact MakerGear directly for support, although your first resource should probably be
the forum, since you’ll likely get a quicker response from the larger group.
MakerGear tech support is via email….and they are generally very quick to respond.
If you need to contact MG support for assistance with your machine, follow the instructions at the
link below:
http://www.makergear.com/pages/support-1

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Contents
Tools List 04
Quick Start Guide –Single Extruder
1. Setting up the Machine/Installing Driver 05
2. Checking the Level 05
3. Adjusting the Level 06
4. Preparing the Plate 08
5. Establishing Communication with Your Slicer Software 09
6. Checking and Setting the Z-Endstop 10
Checking the Z-Endstop Gap
Cold Setting the Z-Endstop
Hot Setting the Z-Endstop (all nozzle styles)
Hot Setting the Z-Endstop (V4 style nozzle)
7. Preparing to Print 14
8. Printing 15
9. Calibrations 16
Calibrating the Z-Offset
Calibrating the Tension on the Filament Drive Screw
Calibrating the Extrusion Width
Quick Start Guide –Dual Extruder M2
Getting Started with the Dual Extruder System 17
Adjusting the Right Nozzle Gap 18
Starter S3D Profiles for the Dual 19
Tips for Printing PLA 20
Troubleshooting Tips 22

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Tools List
Although you can get by without them, the tools below just make it easier to use a 3D printer.
1. Metric Feeler Gauges (Amazon) - They are invaluable in setting the Z-stop.
2. Calipers - Needed for calibrating the extrusion widths and heights.
3. Hairspray/Washable Glue Stick/Wide Blue Painter’s Tape -Any of these can be used to stick the
prints to the plate and you might prefer one method over the other.
4. Sprue (Wire) Cutters/Tweezer Nose Pliers - For removing support and cleaning up your prints.
5. Burr Grinders (Amazon) - Are also great for removing junk if you have a Dremel tool.
6. Fine Grade Sand Papers - For smoothing your finished prints.
7. Eye Protection -Always wear safety glasses or goggles when you are cleaning up a print.
(It’s very easy for a snipped bit to fly up and hit you in the eye, even if you wear regular glasses.)
8. Thin Bladed Spatula/ Honed Putty Knife/Single Edge Razor Blade with holder - For prying the
print off the glass. (“Cricut”makes a good one.) (Amazon)
9. Gloves - Useful when prying a print off the glass. (You can cut yourself when the print lets go.)
10. Painter’s Masking Tape -Used to hold the Z-knob in place while leveling and setting the Z-stop.
(There are printable options for Z-knob holders on Thingiverse as well.)
11. Spare Hot End, Nozzle and Plate –Handy to have because when you need them, it’s immediately.
12. Optional Bed Surface - As opposed to the hairspray and spatula route, you might want to try one
of the bed surfacing options below:
PEI surface - Pros: Releases easily when cool, holds beautifully under heat without adhesive,
stays perfectly flat if it is applied correctly, and is easy to use for beginners. Cons: Has to be
applied to the borosilicate glass with sheet tape. (Think screen protectors.)
Zebra plate - Pros: Heavy flexible plate with copper inserts on both sides. Replaces the glass,
no application needed. Holds beautifully without adhesive for certain filaments. Excellent
release for large prints due to the flexible nature. Cons: Can warp over time, or at higher
heat. Not the best choice for beginners due to flex. Cannot be used for tall ABS prints.
MIC6 tooling plate - Pros: Aluminum replacement plate - distributes heat all the way to the
edges of the plate for better adhesion. Cons: Does require adhesive. Plate has to be ordered,
cut to size, and the faces bead-blasted (if desired) - you can’t buy the correct size off the shelf.
There may be extra costs for custom sizing.
(There is more information on what the surfaces do, how to apply them, and what makes them better
for certain prints in the Modifications section of the forum.)

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The Quick Start Guide
Single Extruder M2
1. Setting up the Machine:
Choose a solid, stable, desk, table, or workbench to set up your machine.
(These things vibrate when they print.)
Because the M2 changes slightly as improvements are incorporated into the base model:
Carefully read through all of the current instructions provided by MakerGear (included in your box)
before assembling.
You can also direct download your RAMBo Windows Driver before assembly, to have it ready. It is
available at the page linked here:
http://makergear.wikidot.com/m2-firmware
Assembly is easy, and generally all that is required is to clip a few ties, plug in a connector or two,
tighten a few screws to attach the spool holder, and load your driver (if you use Windows). Keep in
mind, the User Manual and Wiki might not get updated as often as the instructions that came in your
box. It’s a rapidly evolving field, and MakerGear is continually testing and incorporating the latest
improvements. (If they don’t agree, follow the current instructions you received in the box.)
There is an excellent step-by-step demo for the basic setup process here:
M2 Initial Setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCKDJlZKubA
2. Checking the Level:
If you purchased a pre-assembled (non-auto-leveling) machine, it has already been leveled by
experts, and the packaging protects it very well during transport. It is highly unlikely that you will
have to adjust the level, but it’s not a bad idea to check it once you have assembled the machine,
before you have extruded through the nozzle.(If you have extruded, clean any drips off of the nozzle
with the tweezers while it is cooling. You need a clean nozzle surface for this test.)
You need:
Masking Tape
Sheet of copy paper
Pull up a chair in front of the machine. With the power off to the
machine, center the nozzle over the bed. With your hands underneath
the Y-axis rail, (not the spider), slowly lift the bed until it is a couple of
inches under the nozzle.
Sit in front of the machine, get comfortable, and position your eyes level
with the bottom of the nozzle.

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Turn the Z-axis knob to finish bringing the bed up until it almost touches the nozzle.
(You should still be able to see a small gap at eye level, about the thickness of the sheet of paper.)
When the nozzle is close enough, use the masking tape to tape the Z-knob into place, to keep it from
turning. (It will hold the bed at that position until the tape is removed.)
Without taking your eyes off of the gap between the nozzle and the bed, (using your hand) slowly
move the print head all the way to the left, all the way to the right, and then back to the center along
the X axis.
If the bed is un-level from left to right, you will see the size of that gap change. (Stop if the nozzle hits
the bed, you might need to lower the bed a fraction to run your test. Re-center the nozzle, and re-
tape the Z-knob.)
Perform the same test for the front-to-back direction by again, centering the print head, and then
slowly moving the bed forward and backward along the Y axis (by hand). Keep your eyes on the gap
at eye level while you do it.
Note: After you have eyed the gap, check it by sliding the sheet of copy paper between the nozzle and
bed at various points along the axes to check the resistance. The paper should slide in and out with
the same slight resistance at all points.
If the size of the gap doesn’t change by more than 0.1 mm (roughly the thickness of the sheet of
paper) from the center to either side of the bed, it’s in good shape. If the gap changes by more than
0.2 mm (two sheets of paper) it’s going to need to be adjusted.
To help keep your plate level for a long time:
1. Do not lift the bed using the spider or the bed plate; always lift from underneath the Y-axis rail.
2. Don’t try to manually lift the bed with the stepper motors engaged. (It won’t budge.)
3. Don’t pry stubborn prints off of the plate while it’s still on the bed. Remove the plate first.
Note: Because glass is rarely perfect, you might see some isolated low spots or bulges in the glass as
you move the print head and the bed. If the bulge or low spot is small enough, it shouldn’t affect your
printing –what you are looking for is an overall lean in one direction over another.
3. Adjusting the Level:
It’s very easy to quickly make minor adjustments to the bed level
by turning the three adjustment screws on the triangular plate
(located under the bed) that the spider sits on, if you understand
how turning each of the screws affects the plate.
The diagram on the next page is very handy for explaining it, and
it’s a good idea to print out a copy and keep it near the printer for
reference.

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Use the Front Adjustment Screw and Rear Adjustment Screw to adjust the size of the gap along the Y
axis. (Front to back.)
For example: Say the front of the bed is too low relative to the rear of the bed, (the gap is larger at
the front of the machine than at the rear), you would position the nozzle at the area of the largest
gap, watch it at eye level, and slightly loosen the Front Adjustment Screw to bring the plate up until
the gap at the front is the same size as the gap at the rear of the plate. Check the gap (all the way
forward and back) again. You never want to make big adjustments to the screws, use tiny increments
and check the results, then adjust more if needed.
To adjust the gap from left to right on the plate, (along the X axis), you use only the Right Adjustment
Screw. That screw causes the plate to rotate relative to an axis that runs between the other two
screws, so if you tighten the gap on the right side of the bed, the gap grows larger on the left side of
the plate.

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To correctly use this screw, position the nozzle directly over the widest part of the gap, refer to the
diagram for the correct direction to turn the screw, keep your eye on it and either slightly tighten or
loosen the Right Adjustment Screw to reduce that gap by half. Check the gap all the way again,
choose the next highest gap, and adjust once more if needed. Again, only close half of the gap.
For more information:
A more detailed description (with photos) of Setting the Z-Stop and Bed Leveling is available on the
MakerGear Forum: http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2783
And a video of the more expert leveling process is available at the link below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R53wWwktH0s
Note: The diagram shown above is a simplified view of the leveling procedure, designed to take care
of minor adjustments before they become major ones, and it assumes starting with a basically level
bed. If you have a large variance at any of the corners, or have let the bed get severely out of level,
you will need to read the more detailed descriptions and watch the video for a better understanding
of the leveling forces at work. (There are actually 3 axes that the plate rotates through, and major
adjustments would need to be handled according to the video instructions.)
Remove the tape from the Z-knob, and gently lower the bed (supporting it), when you are done.
4. Preparing Your Plate:
If you are planning to use the Polyimide (Kapton) tape on your glass plate, remove it from the bed
clips and apply the tape at this time. (The tape is used to improve print adhesion for certain filaments,
and can be used in conjunction with other adhesives if needed. It can also level out a slightly low spot
in the glass, and it provides protection from possible chipping of the glass when removing prints.)
Same goes for blue Painter’s Tape, if you intend to try it in lieu of adhesive. Evenly apply 3 strips of
tape along the long edge of the plate, (with no overlap), before the next test. If you have purchased a
separate surface (such as PEI material) you will also want to apply it before performing the next
check.
Note: And this is important….Any time you change the height of the print surface relative to the
nozzle, you will need to re-set the Z-Endstop. If you set the Z-stop initially using painter’s tape, and
then change out the tape with fresh painter’s tape, that is not usually enough to warrant re-setting
the Z-stop.
But if you switch from painter’s tape to Kapton tape, that is. Switching to a different plate, or
applying a different surface to your existing plate, is going to change the gap between the nozzle and
the print surface. Keep that in mind if you use multiple plates for different things on your machine.
The use of adhesives alone is not enough to affect the gap.

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5. Establishing Communication with your Slicer Software:
At this point, if you have not already done so, you will want to establish communication with your
slicer software or machine control software, since you will be using the controls to heat the nozzle
and bed for the next test. (Setting the Z-Endstop.)
Basically, the way the 3D printing process works is that a 3D model (created in any appropriate 3D
modeling program) is “sliced” in another program, which can look at that model and automatically
convert it into a series of thousands of “G-Code” commands that tell the printer when to turn on the
fans and the nozzle, how much to extrude, how far to travel before turning, when to stop printing,
etc. This slicer software can be used to either send instructions to the printer over USB, or by saving
a G-code file with the instructions to an SD card, which is then inserted into the card reader on the
printer. (In an assembled M2, the SD card is shipped inside the card reader on the machine.)
The M2 can be used with the (recommended) Simplify3D slicer software, or the free open source
option of Slic3r through a Printrun (aka: Pronterface) or Repetier interface. MakerGear has nothing
to do with the development of any of these 3rd party programs, so you’ll need to access the
individual web sites for specific usage instructions. (There are users on the MakerGear forum familiar
with both methods.)
Simplify 3D:
Purchase and install: https://www.simplify3d.com/
Setup Guide: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/hardware-setup-guides/makergear/
Tutorials & Guides: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/
http://jinschoi.github.io/simplify3d-docs/
Printrun/Pronterface:
Download and install: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/
Setup Instructions: http://makergear.wikidot.com/m2-getting-started
Slic3r:
Download and install: http://slic3r.org/
Tutorials & Guides: http://manual.slic3r.org/
After you have downloaded and installed the software, (following the setup instructions at the above
links), turn on the M2, establish a connection with the software, and practice using the Jog Controls
/Machine Control Panel to heat the nozzle and bed, (215°C/60°C), move the plate up and down (by a
few millimeters), and move the print head left and right (by a few millimeters). At this time, avoid
using the Home Z button on the Jog Controls. (You will be checking/setting that in the next step.)
(It’s also not time yet to load the filament, since if you extrude through the nozzle, you’re going to
have to heat it up, retract the filament, and clean the nozzle off before continuing.)
Once you get comfortable with basic manipulation of the controls, continue to the next step.

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6. Checking and Setting the Z-(End)Stop: (It’s all about the gap!)
In 3D printing, the most critical setting that you have to get
absolutely right is the size of the gap between the tip of the
nozzle and the print surface when you lay down your first
layer. If that gap is too large, you’ll be squirting plastic into
thin air, your filament won’t stick to the plate, and you might
experience poor bonding. If it’s too small, you’ll be smearing
plastic across the plate, squishing it out the sides, and
potentially jamming the nozzle.
The Z-EndStop is set once before you begin printing, to lock the Z-Home value, so that the gap
between the nozzle and the surface of the plate comes out to just at or below one layer height
(0.20 - 0.25 mm) while the bed and nozzle are at the correct
temperature for whatever filament you are printing.
(Additional fine tuning is required of course, since you will be
printing a lot of different filaments at different
temperatures.) But you want to get as close as you can to
that ideal with the Z-Home.
On a pre-assembled M2, the Z-stop is set once for you, using a Kapton-coated glass plate, and the
cold-set method.
(If the plates now come with the Kapton tape pre-applied, then the test was probably performed with
your plate. You will just need to check the Z-stop gap to make sure the bolt didn’t shift during
shipping, and to make sure the bolt is tightened.)
The gap can be approximated by using a standard business card, while the machine is cold.
For more accuracy you want to set the gap by heating the bed and nozzle to printing temps and using
aMetric Feeler Gauge (0.15 mm to 0.20 mm).
Either way, after you have checked or reset the Z-stop, you will fine-tune the gap using
a control in your slicing software called the Z-Offset, which you will determine later in
the final Calibrations step.