Rapido Trains RDC User manual

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RDC – Rail Diesel Car – Operating Handbook
Thank you for purchasing this ultimate model of the Budd RDC. This is our third run
of the famous Rail Diesel Car and while we have covered most of the RDC versions
built, we’ve still got a few more things up our sleeve. Every time we release a model,
we get input from out customers on how best to improve our products, and we do
take those thoughts into account. So once again, if there is anything about our RDC
model that you think can be improved upon, please let us know.
As well, please do not hesitate to contact us should there be anything wrong with
your model. Whether you have a warranty issue (missing grab iron, moss growing
on the floor, etc.), a question (“Why doesn’t it go at a scale 186 MPH like it did in
1966?”) or a comment (“Your 3D scan is wrong. The RDC should really resemble
my pet salamander named Captain Fluffy.”) please give us a shout. More warranty
information is available towards the back of this manual.
Note that we have maxed out the speed in DCC at about 98 MPH as measured
using our NCE system at the office. If you are the type of model railroader that likes
to shoot his models around 18” radius curves at 400 MPH thereby launching them
into the stratosphere, you are out of luck. We suggest strapping a real jet engine to
the roof. (Note that this will void the warranty.)
You can reach us by email: [email protected], by phone (1-855-LRC-6917 or
[phone]) or by snail mail at the address on the next page.
Please do not send any models back to us without first speaking to us to get a return
authorization, and please be patient when you send something back. Our warranty
team does not rush through jobs just to get them done quickly – time and care is
taken to make sure the repair is done right. And if you complain online that you sent
back your model for repair “months ago” even though the model has only been out
for three weeks, we reserve the right to put your picture up in our office and make
fun of it.
If its 2053 and you just purchased this model from a middle-of-nowhere roadside
antique shop, then there is a very good chance that not only is Rapido Trains Inc.
probably moved up in the world and operating a shortline railway, but the warranty
likely won’t apply any more. We specialize in providing 24/7 service to local busi-
nesses, and are even providing RDC shuttles with timed connections to nearby VIA
services. As such, if you need some parts for your RDC you are on your own. But we
will be more than happy to offer you freight delivery service at competitive prices!
This sound-equipped Rapido model features an ESU Loksound
V5 decoder. For more information, please visit www.esu.eu.

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OUR ADDRESS
Rapido Trains Inc.
Canada: 500 Alden Road, Unit 21, Markham, Ontario L3R 5H5
USA: PO Box 796, Higganum, Connecticut 06441
Email: [email protected]
Tel. [phone] Fax. [phone]
TOWING AND YOUR WARRANTY
The real RDC came with a warranty from Budd, its builder in Philadelphia.
If you, as a railroad, towed anything behind your RDC, you would void the
warranty. The same applies for your Rapido RDC. The Rapido RDC has two very
small motors which are strong enough to pull your Rapido RDC and nothing
else. Similarly, the worm gears and universals are extremely delicate as they
are only designed for the RDC to pull itself. If you tow anything behind your
RDC you do so at your own risk. Your warranty is well and truly void if you pull
unpowered equipment behind your RDC. The emphasis is unpowered. Coupling
up to another Rapido RDC is perfectly fine. Gold star if you can make a really
long train of nothing but RDCs, just like CP did once upon a time. If you send it
back to us under warranty we can quickly determine if the damage was caused
by towing (using the secret “tow-o-matic” strain meter hidden in the RDC floor)
and you’ll have to pay for any repair work.
RDC #6133 HAS A NEW
FRIEND!
Yes, we’ve done it again. We’ve
saved RDC-2 #6215 from the
scrapper’s torch. We welcome
contributions to our restoration
efforts. Please visit our web site
to contribute!
rapidotrains.com
THIS IS SO IMPORTANT IT EVEN GETS PUT IN BEFORE THE
TABLE OF CONTENTS. PLEASE READ IT CAREFULLY.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
What’s New...................................................................................................... 5
History..............................................................................................................5
Break-In ............................................................................................................7
Caution: Applying Decals ...................................................................................7
Changing the Couplers.......................................................................................7
Missing or Damaged Parts ..................................................................................8
What Are All the Extra Bits? ...............................................................................9
Interior Lights and Number Boards ....................................................................11
Checking and Adjusting your RDC ....................................................................12
Removing the Shell........................................................................................... 12
Operation – DC (Silent)............................................................................... 13
Installing a Silent DCC Decoder ................................................................... 13
Operation – DC (Sound) ............................................................................. 14
Operation – DCC (Sound) ........................................................................... 15
• RDC Address ......................................................................................15
• Turn On The Sound...............................................................................16
• Functions ............................................................................................ 16
• Functions and Prototypical Operation ..................................................... 17
• Horns and Bells....................................................................................19
• Sound Volume Settings .........................................................................19
• Factory Reset ......................................................................................20
• More Information ................................................................................21
Limited Lifetime Warranty .................................................................................21
Acknowledgements .........................................................................................21
RDC: DCC FUNCTION QUICK REFERENCE
F0 HEADLIGHTS
F1 BELL
F2 HORN
F3 STRAIGHT TO 4
F4 BRAKES
F5 DOPPLER HORN – SLOW
F6 DITCH LIGHTS (WHERE APPLICABLE)
F7 HEADLIGHT DIMMER
F8 STARTUP/MUTE/SHUTDOWN
F9 RED CLASSIFICATION LIGHTS
F10 DOOR GYRALITES (WHERE APPLICABLE)
F11 DOPPLER HORN – FAST
F12 SERVICING MODE

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WHAT’S NEW?
This run of RDCs features a number of improvements over our first run of Canadian
RDCs, mentioned in more detail throughout these instructions. They include:
• Interior lights and number boards can be turned off using a Rapido Lighter
• Compressor sounds have been lowered so it stops thumping in your ear
• We did NOT replace the engine recording with one from an F7. We don’t care
what those guys on the internet forums remember, the RDC did not sound like an
F unit. If they have a video with an RDC sounding like an F7, it was a silent film
over which some shmoe dubbed F7 sounds. The RDC sounded like a bus. If you
really want your RDC to sound like an F7, go buy an F7 decoder and put it in
yourself. We’re glad that’s off our collective chest.
HISTORY
In the early 1950s many railroads were looking for alternate means of providing fast,
more economical passenger service with the goal of gaining back some of the clientele
that had transferred to automobiles. The Budd Company of Philadelphia designed the
RDC (Rail Diesel Car) as an economical alternative to the traditional locomotive-hauled
passenger trains in suburban, commuter, branch line, interurban and supplementary
main line service at a time when the railroads were struggling to make such services
profitable. RDCs proved much less costly to operate than regular consists and were well
received by railroads throughout North America as well as some overseas lines. Priced
at $127,000 to $130,000, an RDC cost approximately 50 per cent less to operate than
a conventional locomotive-hauled train. An RDC demonstrator unit toured a number of
railroads in late 1949 and early 1950. A total of 398 units of various configurations
were built from 1949 and 1962. The Budd Company built RDCs in its Red Lion plant in
Philadelphia. In 1957, Canadian Car & Foundry Company of Montreal was licensed
to build RDCs in Canada for Canadian buyers. Subsequently, 16 unfinished body shells
were supplied by the Budd Company and completed in the Lachine plant of Canadian
Car & Foundry.
Canadian railways purchased a total of 107 RDCs - both new and second-hand from
US roads. Sixteen units were completed by Canadian Car & Foundry plant in Lachine,
Quebec in 1957. CNR purchased 46 new while CPR purchased 54 new of which two
were assigned to the Dominion Atlantic. PGE purchased seven new. Some of the units
moved from one railroad to another over time, such as the CN and CP cars going to VIA
Rail. The numbers include units purchased both new and second-hand.

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Canadian National
CN advertised its RDCs as Railiners and numbered them based on model type. RDC-1s
were D-100 up. RDC-2s were D-200 up. RDC-3s were D-300 up. RDC-4s were D-400
up and RDC-9s were D500 up. Due to popular public response to the initial units that
CN purchased in 1954-1959, CN purchased additional second-hand units from B&M,
C&O, C&EI, B&M in 1964 and 1965 to meet traffic demands. CN purchased an
additional seven RDC-9 units from the MBTA in 1965. The CN units were delivered with
green and yellow ends with black lettering on the stainless steel letter boards. Later they
received bright red ends with white CN noodle logos and wide black bands with white
CN noodle logos along the side window panels Some units also featured a white band
on their letter boards.
In 1964-65 CN modernized and improved the interiors accommodations in many units.
CN and VIA Rail operated one of the largest RDC fleets. CN modernized most of its
Phase I units by adding new ends with smaller cab windows, larger pilots of the Phase II
design and roof-top headlights in a unique housing. Many Phase II units were fitted with
a diaphragm at each end to enable passengers to move between cars when operated
as multiple unit trains. Late in life many units also received ditch lights in rectangular
recesses below the end cab windows. In 1978 all existing CN units were transferred
to VIA.
Canadian Pacific
CP advertised its RDCs as Dayliners and numbered them based on model type. RDC-1s
were 9050-9099. RDC-2s were 9100-9199. RDC-3s were 9020-9049. RDC-4s were
9200-9299. In operation, a headlight was usually mounted on the center of the end
door on the leading unit. Two RDC-1 units were assigned to, and lettered for, the CP
subsidiary Dominion Atlantic Railway. CP purchased one RDC-1 from the DSS&A in
1958 and one RDC-2 from the Lehigh Valley in 1958.
The Initial CP paint scheme was maroon and yellow chevron striped ends and maroon
letter boards. With the advent of CP Rail they received Action Red and white ends, white
cab roofs and Action Red letter boards. This CP Rail scheme has been called the “hock-
ey mask” scheme as it resembles a face mask worn by hockey goal keepers. A final
paint scheme was ends with Action Red and white stripes, white cab roofs and Action
Red side doors and letter boards. In 1978 all existing CP units were transferred to VIA.
PGE/British Columbia Railway/BC Rail
PGE and BC Rail advertised its RDCs as Cariboo Dayliners and numbered them based
on model type. RDC-1’ were BC-10 up while RDC-3s were BC-30 up. In addition to the
units that PGE purchased new in 1956, PGE purchased additional second-hand units;
four from Amtrak in 1975 and three from SEPTA in 1983. The PGE units had dark green
and orange ends with a dark green letter boards and orange lettering. Most of the units
had the side fluting carried across the side doors and wrapped around the car ends.

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PGE cars had Swanson air horns mounted on the roof at each end and “Pathfinder”
headlights mounted on the extreme top corners of the car. In operation, a headlight was
usually mounted on the center of the end door on the leading unit. In 1972 all existing
PGE units became units of the British Columbia Railway which later became BC Rail.
VIA Rail
In 1978, VIA inherited a combined 84 units from both CN and CP. Many additional
RDCs were purchased from MBTA (ex-B&M) as they were made surplus in the US. VIAs
RDCs were numbered in the 6xxx series, which necessitated renumbering of all the ex-
CP units to match the existing CN numbering scheme. In operation, a headlight was
usually mounted on the center of the end door on the leading unit. The VIA units carried
wide blue bands with yellow stripes on their sides with VIA logos and had their pilots
painted black. VIA started as a division of CN, called VIA CN. In 1976 and 1977,
many units could be seen with a small CN logo under the VIA logo.
BREAK-IN
Every powered model needs a break-in period, and this is especially true with your RDC
as it has not one but TWO motors. Your RDC has been tested at the factory but only for
a minute or two. That is not enough time to get the gears to mesh nicely or to even out
any jerky operation in the motors. We suggest that, after reading this manual, you put
your RDC model on a test loop and just let it run in each direction for a half hour or so.
Fast and slow. You don’t need to add any grease or oil to the gearboxes.
CAUTION: APPLYING DECALS
Unlettered RDCs will obviously require you to add your own decals. We VEHEMENTLY
recommend that you use Microscale Micro-Set and Micro-Sol to apply your decals.
Solvaset and other strong decal solutions may cause the “stainless steel” finish to turn
brown. If you are absolutely determined to use Solvaset despite us expressly telling you
not to, please test it on a hidden spot to make sure it does not ruin the finish. We can’t
fix a model that has had its finished ruined by decal setting solution. If you used Solvaset
and ruined your RDC and you have only now just read this…. Sorry.
CHANGING THE COUPLERS
We’ve put medium-length couplers on the RDC ends so they will look good while clear-
ing the pilots on wide curves. But if you have tight curves, you may find that you need to
replace the coupler at one end with a long one if you want to run two RDCs together. If
you need to change the couplers at both ends your curves are too tight. You should be
running high-rail buses and not RDCs.
Changing a coupler is very straightforward. Place a white table cloth on your work-

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bench or kitchen table. Dining room tables are not recommended. Coffee tables are
punishable by a fine and a possible jail term. Kids play tables are just asking for trouble
too, simply because your RDC is NOT A TOY! If you gave your RDC to your four-year-old
grandson you clearly have money to burn and we’d like you to contribute $10,000 to
our RDC restoration efforts. Please send a cheque payable to “cash” to the attention of
Jordan Smith at the Rapido address.
Place a foam cradle (available from Micro-Mark, product #80784) or a thick-piled hand
towel (not a tea towel!) folded over a couple of times on top of the table cloth and lay
the RDC on its roof.
Use a small Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the coupler box and slide it out without
destroying the surrounding details, especially the really thin trapezoid-thing (we don’t
know what it’s for either) that is liable to spring off into oblivion. Ping! Whooaaa!! There
it goes.
Snap the lid off the coupler box, replace the coupler, and snap the lid back on. Slide the
coupler box back in and replace the screw. Pick up the RDC and look around the white
table cloth for all the grab irons and the horns that have fallen off. Glue them back on
with white glue. Hey – don’t say we didn’t warn you! And on that note….
MISSING OR DAMAGED PARTS
With over 400 individual detail parts, the RDC is a far cry from the rubber-band-
equipped model it’s replacing. To prevent inevitable frustration, we recommend check-
ing your RDC as soon as possible to ensure that everything is where it should be. Don’t
wait until you’ve retired and we’re all sitting around reminiscing in a retirement home.
We’ll be lucky to be able to say RD… RD… RD whatever. You can forget about us send-
ing you parts at that point.
We try to catch all potential issues at the factory, but with literally hundreds of RDCs in
each production run it is possible that the odd problem may slip past our quality control
inspectors. Everyone gets their hair cut at, like, 2 a.m. in China. We don’t know why, but
it’s true. Even Jason went for a late-night snip in Shenzhen in 2015. (Bill wanted a snip
but then realized he had no hair.) The stylist was shocked that Jason wanted him to use
clippers. He was ready to spend 45 minutes styling. Eventually Jason took the clippers
and did it himself in five, not 45 minutes. Where were we? Right – so maybe the person
assembling your RDC was at the barber all night and consequently installed a grab iron
crooked. Your model – her hair. Hmmm. Tough choice. Hair wins.
A bigger issue is damage in transit. More than 99.5% of all models are perfect when
they leave our warehouse. But our gentle courier and postal carriers tend use our models
to practice for their local kickball team every Thursday at 7pm down at the park by the
tracks. No packaging is designed to survive such punishment.
If underbody bits come loose in transit, they are easily reattached with CA (super glue).
If grab irons or other parts on the shell come loose, we recommend white glue rather

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than CA. We prefer white glue over CA because it works just as well for most layout
scenarios and is very easy to clean up. There is no risk of damaging the paint job – just
wipe up the spilled glue with a bit of warm water on a paper towel. If the courier com-
panies have been really cruel and there are a lot of parts loose, please contact us. You
can send the RDC back and we’ll glue all the parts back on and pack the thing in a mile
of toilet paper before sending it back to you. As an added benefit, the toilet paper may
come in handy for other purposes as well.
If any parts are missing or broken, please call or email us. We’ll happily send you free
replacements. We aim for 100% customer satisfaction… with one exception. If you are
one of those people who calls us because the horn is slightly crooked and you don’t
want to move it back into place with your finger, please go away.
WHAT ARE ALL THE EXTRA BITS?
Like any real train, the RDCs went through several changes over their operating lives.
We can’t represent every possible variation on the model, but we can certainly include
a bunch of goodies for you to customize your model to match a specific era or photo-
graph.
Canadian RDC models contain:
• Diaphragms. Install to match photos. Some RDCs had diaphragms at both ends.
Some had a diaphragm at one end. Some had notched diaphragms. Some had
straight diaphragms. Many had all of the above. We include two pairs of dia-
phragms. Have fun.
• Gyralite. CP and VIA RDCs had a Gyralite which was
mounted on the door in the direction of travel. We have
installed a working Gyralite LED behind both end doors.
To install the Gyralite, drill a hole in the location shown
in the illustration, 4.5mm (just shy of 3/16”) below
the end door window. You will need to remove the top
safety chain. The hole should be big enough to clear
the clear plastic lightway at the rear of the light, but
smaller than the size of the Gyralite housing. Glue on
the Gyralite using white glue. If you want the Gyralite in
use in both directions, install both Gyralites. NOTE: It is
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that you remove the shell before drilling. The Gyralite
LED is immediately behind the door and even the slightest punch through will
damage it, and then you’ll need to contact us about repair options.
• Sinclair antenna. These were added later in life and were placed in different
locations on almost every RDC. Match photos.

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• Roof bell. In later VIA years the bell was finally mounted to the roof inside the
blister as it was always filled with snow. Install it in the location shown on the next
page. Note the roof bell installation usually came with stack modification.
• Frigidaire AC single condenser unit. Most Canadian RDCs were built with
a Frigidaire dual condenser unit, and others received them later on. So we’ve
installed the dual condenser unit on the models but for the two of you who care
we’ve included the original Frigidaire AC single condenser unit. You need to hack
off the dual condenser unit and install the single condenser unit. No, we’re not go-
ing to illustrate it for you. If you have no idea what the dual condenser unit looks
like, then you are fine with whatever is installed on the model.
• Note that your RDC has working ditch lights be-
hind the ends. If your unit is already equipped with
ditch lights, then ignore what you just read. If you
want to retrofit ditch lights, the LEDs are there. Use
the illustration provided to drill in the proper loca-
tion. NOTE: It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that
you remove the shell before drilling. The ditch light
LEDs are immediately behind the carbody and even
the slightest punch through will damage them, and
then you’ll need to contact us about repair options.
If you already read the note about the Gyralite
above, this is your second warning. Don’t make us go for the hat trick!
• Horns. We’ve installed appropriate horns for your model. Some models will also
include an additional horn in the polybag in the event the real RDC wore differ-
ent types over the years. If you end up with a spare or two, can also use them to
replace some of the totally wrong horns on your non-Rapido models. Yes, M3H
horns really are that small. We’ve also included the raised horn bases used on CP
RDCs and randomly on VIA RDCs.
Roof bell installed here
or here
13.15mm
4mm
6.55mm

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• Stacks and stuff. VIA and CN did all sorts of stack modifications. We’ve included
tall stacks (they are the ones with the bend in them) because some RDCs got one
or two tall stacks. We’ve also included extra straight stacks for installation on the
outside angled sections of the roof blisters. VIA moved most of their stacks to the
outside. We’ve also included extra radiator cover grilles with holes in them to
clear the outside stacks. An example is shown in the roof bell illustration above.
Look at photos and install the needed bits to match the photos as there are far too
many variations to illustrate here.
• Pilot cover. This is included for CP Action Red RDCs as
they are the only phase1 Canadian RDCs in the first
run with an as-delivered pilot. White glue does not have
the needed tensile strength to stand up to the rough han-
dling this part will receive. Use CA or 5-minute epoxy to install this part.
• Front window grilles. These protect your locomotive engineers from debris caused
by the clueless pickup driver who ignores the flashing lights and drives in front
of your RDC. They were used mainly between Calgary and Edmonton but have
been seen all over the country. A couple styles are provided. You need to bend
the sides and install. We recommend drilling small holes to accept the legs and
then dipping them in white glue before installing. If your RDC gets handled much,
use CA instead of white glue.
• Extra extra bits. We include extra windshield wipers and door handles in case
one of yours gets beamed to the moon.
• Note that your RDC has working ditch lights behind the ends. If you want to ret-
rofit ditch lights, the LEDs are there. Contact us for a drawing showing where the
LEDs are located.
INTERIOR LIGHTS AND NUMBER BOARDS
We heard you loud and clear after our first production run. “Why can’t I turn the interior
lights and number boards off?” Well the simple answer for that was technology just still
hasn’t gotten far enough, as we ran out of functions on the circuit board. Well, who says
you need state-of-the-art technology when we can go back to how Rapido revolutionized
interior lighting … with the Rapido Lighter! Just wave the magnetic wand over the long
end of the RDC roof (that’s the end with six windows instead of five) and you’ll toggle the
lights on and off … on and off … on and off … Sheer brilliance! The switch is hidden in
there. Wave the Lighter close to the roof until you find it.

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CHECKING AND ADJUSTING YOUR RDC
We try and make sure that every model is perfectly up to spec before it leaves the
factory, but if the QC inspector spent all night at the barber there may be a couple of
bugs. Doing a quick pre-service check will solve most operational glitches.
• Check to see that all wheelsets are correctly in gauge using an NMRA RP-2 Stan-
dards Gauge. Should any of the wheelsets be out of gauge, remove the affected
wheelset from the truck by gently prying off the bottom lid of the gearbox with a
small flat screwdriver. OK, you need to use a bit more force. The wheelset can be
regauged by grabbing each wheel and twisting. Reverse the steps to replace the
wheelset, and ensure the gearbox cover is snapped into place before placing on
the track.
• Check that all underbody piping and appliances are firmly installed and clear of
the track. A small drop of CA-type superglue will sufficiently hold any loose parts
securely. Under the body who cares if you spill a bit?
• Make sure that the trucks swivel freely and without binding. If they catch on any-
thing, check to ensure that the sand pipes do not interfere with any of the under-
frame components and that no underbody conduits are hanging too low.
REMOVING THE SHELL
If you need to open up your RDC to add people it is actually quite easy to do. Just be
sure to remember these important points:
• Our factory in China is next to a Mexican Jumping Bean factory. Occasionally
products from the two factories get mixed up and some of the little parts on your
RDC may actually have been manufactured from Mexican Jumping Beans. That
means that, as soon as you turn your RDC over and start fiddling, numerous bits
may take the opportunity to jump to their freedom. We would never intention-
ally imprison a Mexican Jumping Bean, so we won’t help you find the offending
part(s).
• If you would like to keep your RDC components imprisoned, please make every
effort to work in a clean, uncluttered space. That way you can see the bits jump-
ing away and tackle them.
• Turn the RDC upside down and lay it gently in the foam cradle you bought for
the “Changing the Couplers” section above and remove the coupler screws. Pull
the coupler boxes out of the ends using needle-nose pliers and turn the RDC right-
way up. Using something flat and durable like a business card, wedge between
the carbody and the frame where they clip together (twice on each side near the
trucks). Once you’ve done that, firmly grab the stairs on one end and pull. Alter-
nate ends until you rock the chassis away from the shell.

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• Do not pull on the trucks. If you do, they will break off. You will never be able to
get them back on. We will charge you BIG BIG MONEY to put them on for you
because clearly you didn’t read this.
OPERATION – DC (SILENT)
If your RDC is not equipped with a sound decoder, it should function like most other HO
scale locomotives. Put it on the track. Give it some juice. Watch it go.
In DC, the following lights work:
• Headlight (directional)
• Rear red classification lights (directional)
• Interior Lights and Number Boards (turn on/off using the Rapido Lighter)
• Ditch lights (directional, if equipped)
You can’t access the door-mounted Gyralite in DC, nor can you dim the lights or turn
them off. If you want to have full control over lighting features, you might want to con-
sider upgrading your layout to DCC. In every manual, at around this point, we make a
(not remotely) subtle dig at people who choose not to upgrade to DCC. We’ve decided
to skip that with this manual. We respect people who don’t trust DCC, and we also
respect people who don’t trust unleaded gas, air conditioning, or FM radio. (It works
under bridges so it can’t be natural!)
Now that you DC users are really riled up, we’d like to inform you that effigies of Rapido
employees are available to purchase. These can be burned on bonfires, at the stake, or
even just propped up on your driveway. They are only $299.95 each, which is about the
same price as an entry-level DCC system. If you buy five effigies, we’ll throw in Dan Garcia
for free. The real one, not an effigy. If you buy six, we’ll also throw in the DCC system!
INSTALLING A SILENT DCC DECODER
The RDC contains an ESU-designed motherboard which is connected to the track, motor
and lighting outputs. It is located in the roof. A blind plug is attached to the motherboard
using a 21-pin connector. To install a decoder, you will need to open your RDC, remove
the blind plug and install a 21-pin decoder. You must use a 21-pin decoder rather than
an 8-pin or 9-pin decoder. This is clearly written in Rapido’s laws and statutes, section
43, subsection 122, paragraph 2175b.
Your chosen decoder should have six function outputs.
We recommend the following 21-pin decoder:
• ESU #59619 - LokPilot V5 DCC with 21MTC
The necessary resistors are included on our motherboard so you don’t have to futz
around with resistors. Just plug in the recommended decoder and you have DCC.

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ESU has made an RDC function mapping which can be downloaded into their non-
sound decoder (54615) so that the function buttons and motor control are exactly the
same as our factory-released sound versions. This is available for download on the RDC
page in the Support section of our web site. You will need an ESU LokProgrammer to
write the function mapping to the 54615 decoder. If you don’t have a LokProgrammer,
you can adjust CVs in the usual way.
You know, if you want silent DCC it’s a heck of a lot easier to just order the sound model
and turn off the sounds. After you’ve bought the silent decoder and spent four hours
fiddling to install it, fix the bits you broke off, and get all the functions to work correctly,
you’ll realize it would have been cheaper and less frustrating to buy the sound-equipped
model and just turn off the sounds. Your time and sanity are worth something, after all!
OPERATION – DC (SOUND)
Operation of a sound-equipped RDC on a DC layout is very similar to running a silent
DC model, except that the model will not move until it has reached sufficient voltage for
the sounds to fire up (around 7 volts). You cannot control user-activated sound features
like the horn and bell if you are using DC. There are third party controllers that suppos-
edly activate these sounds on DC but we’ve honestly never tested them so we have no
idea how well they work. If they cause your RDC to spontaneously combust, contact us
for assistance, then contact the third party controller manufacturer and tell them they
wrecked your brand new Rapido RDC. Crying is optional but suggested to get best
results.
OPERATION – DCC (SOUND)
We recorded a real RDC in service on the Conway Scenic Railroad back in October
2015. We also recorded a Cummins-powered RDC in 2018, but that wasn’t as lovely
of a trip as it was just down the street.
— NOTICE —
If you want to run your sound-equipped RDC on a DC layout, the Back-EMF circuit can
cause issues when you’re trying to bring your RDC to a stop. To turn off Back-EMF, you
will need to bring your RDC to a model railroad equipped with DCC and set CV49 to
18. If you want to turn it back on, change CV49 to 19. If you have a large DC layout
and you like to operate sound-equipped locomotives, it might be worthwhile to invest
in an entry-level DCC system just so you can adjust the motor settings of your sound-
equipped fleet off the layout.

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(You can watch our RDC videos at youtube.com/rapidotrains). On one of our videos
you can watch Matt Herman revving the engine up and down on our RDC model while
running at a constant speed. He was just fiddling with function F3 on his DCC controller,
switching it on and off. You can do great things with our sound-equipped RDC on a DCC
layout. Note that our RDC does not have ESU’s new* “Full Throttle” control but using F3
you can get a pretty close approximation of that feature.
*new in 2020. If you’ve just opened your RDC in any year other than 2020, then it’s
not so new any more. If you opened this up prior to 2020, please contact us as we’d
like to go back in time like you’ve obviously done and save a United Aircraft TurboTrain.
RDC ADDRESS
Your Rapido RDC comes from the factory with a decoder address of 3. We suggest if
you are using DCC control that you first test that the RDC responds on address 3. Once
you have verified that the RDC is responding you should assign it a unique address
(normally the road number of the RDC) before going any further. This can be done either
on your programming track (recommended) or on the main if your system supports pro-
gramming on the main. Be aware however that if you do program the RDC on the main
and you have any other locomotives assigned to address 3 (the normal default address
for new locomotives) that ALL of them will also be changed to your new address!
Note that some DCC systems get a little wonky when programming sound-equipped
locomotives on the programming track because of the high current draw. If weird stuff
happens, try programming on the main.
— WARNING —
Rapido products are designed to operate safely between 0V and 16V. Voltages in excess
of 16V - as well as irregular waveforms, voltage spikes or short circuits - may cause severe
and sometimes irreversible damage to the product. “Train set” power packs are known to
suffer from any one of these unexpected irregularities, whereas higher-end systems have
safeguards in place to prevent this. Rapido always recommends using a power supply
system that matches the quality of the models you are running. If you’re reading this,
you’ve obviously invested in top-of-the-line, museum-quality motive power and equipment,
so we hope you’ve made the same investment with your model railroad power supply too.
While many power supply systems exist, some are known to have caused problems with
model train circuitry in the past. If you have any one of the following systems, PLEASE DO
NOT USE IT until you contact us for more information: MRC RailPower 1300/1370-series,
Bachman Spectrum Magnum, Atlas 313 Universal Power Pack.

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TURN ON THE SOUND
Press F8 and you will hear both RDC engines fire up along with the “fluup! fluup!” air
compressor. We’ve lowered the volume of this air compressor from our first run because
ALMOST EVERYONE thought it was too loud. Though we do want to smugly state that
the real thing really was that loud.
You can adjust CVs to prevent the RDC from moving until the startup sequence has
played out. We’re really impatient, so we turned this feature off. Refer to a full ESU Lok-
Sound Select decoder manual for more information. You can download it from the RDC
page in the Support section of our web site. The feature is called the “Prime Mover Start-
up Delay” and at the time of writing it is on page 89 of the ESU LokSound 5 manual.
If you press F8 when the RDC is already moving, it will skip the startup and the sound
will just turn on. Press F8 again to turn the sound off.
Note that there is no change in the engine sound between idle and notch 1. That is
prototypical. There is nothing wrong with your model.
Here is something to keep in mind. If you are listening to your RDC idling nicely and
then you select another engine with your throttle, your RDC still thinks F8 is pressed so
it will keep idling along. However, if someone else selects your RDC’s number and F8
isn’t pressed on his or her controller, the RDC will promptly shut down. That someone
will need to press F8 again.
FUNCTIONS
F0 Headlights
F1 Bell
F2 Horn
F3 “Straight to 4”
F4 Brakes
F5 Doppler Horn – Slow
F6 Ditch Lights (Where Applicable)
F7 Headlight Dimmer
F8 Startup/Mute/Shutdown
F9 Red Classification Lights
F10 Door Gyralites (Where Applicable)
F11 Doppler Horn – Fast
F12 Servicing Mode

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FUNCTIONS AND PROTOTYPICAL OPERATION
F0 Headlight
In most of our locomotive models, headlights and other lights are not directional. Like the
real thing, we make you turn on the headlight and turn it off if you are backing up and
you don’t want it on any more.
The trouble with the RDC is IT HAS SO MANY LIGHTS! So we had to make them
directional otherwise we would have run out of function buttons. Please refer to “Which
end is front?” above if you are wondering why your RDC thinks its tush is its nose.
F1 Bell
The default bell is a steel bell. Some modellers will no doubt find solace in the fact that
we also included an e-bell in the sound file too (ok, only Jason will find solace). Visit the
following section “Horns and Bells” on how to change that.
F2 Horn
The default horn recording is an M3H. Choosing a default horn was a tough decision as
there are so many horns used. Actually, it was quite easy since there were only a hand-
full to choose from. For the answer to that, and how to change the default horn sound,
visit the “Horns and Bells” section which follows.
F3 “Straight to 4”
This unique feature simulates the prototypical operation of the RDC. RDCs were (and
are) often used in commuter or branchline service with many stops. To keep to the sched-
ule, locomotive engineers would put the throttle straight into notch 4 and let the RDC ac-
celerate up to track speed. (RDCs only have four notches.) When F3 is selected, you will
hear the RDC sound ramp up quickly to notch 4 (full power). It will stay at notch 4 until
you press it again. When you press F3 again, it will throttle down to whatever notch you
are currently in. Note that this function controls the sound only and not the motor speed,
which is still controlled using the throttle settings as normal. That means that, if you forget
to turn off F3, your RDC will still be roaring at full throttle even if you bring it to a stop.
F4 Brakes
F4 works just like the brakes on a real engine. Press F4 and your RDC will brake to a
stop. Press F4 again to release the brakes.
F5 Doppler Horn – Slow
Rapido’s decoders are known for our awesome Doppler horn recordings. These aren’t
made by software. They are actual recordings from trackside.
F5 is a recording of an M3H horn on a locomotive travelling at around 35 MPH. If you
are barreling along at 85, use F11. If you have a VIA RDC and you change the default
horn to a K5LA, the Doppler horn on F5 will also change to the K5LA. Note the Doppler
horn only works when the engine sound is on.

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F6 Ditch Lights (where applicable)
F6 turns on the ditch lights. If your RDC does not have ditch lights, the LEDs are still there,
and turning them on will make your RDC glow like it’s possessed. The ditch lights are
directional. They are located where VIA Rail Canada installed ditch lights – because we
own two VIA Rail RDCs that have ditch lights – so if your railroad installed ditch lights in
a different location the LEDs will not be in the right place.
BC Rail units were unique in that they had their ditch lights (and rock lights) built into the
pilot. While we really wanted to make these function, the design of it just proved to be
too difficult based on the original design of the model to make them work reliably. Sorry,
eh! If you modify your RDC to make these work, we would love to see photos/videos!
F7 Dim the Headlights
When approaching a station stop or an oncoming train, turn off your ditch lights and
then press F7 to dim your lights – you don’t want to blind your passengers or the oncom-
ing train’s engineers.
F9 Red Class Lights
Pressing F9 turns on the red class lights. They are directional. When F9 is pressed, the
red class lights will always be lit on the rear as determined by the direction of travel.
F10 Door Gyralites
Many railroads mounted a Gyralite (oscillating headlight) to the front door in service.
At the end of the run, the Gyralite was removed and mounted at the other end for the
return trip. We have included a Gyralite LED on the circuit board behind the door. If you
choose to install one or both Gyralites, the LED will already be there.
The Gyralites are directional, just like the headlights. Why? Because like we already told
you, technology hasn’t caught up to us yet and we ran out of functions!
F11 Doppler Horn – Fast
If your RDC is flying along at 80 or 90 MPH and you are approaching a level crossing,
this is the horn for you. This is a real recording of an M3H at speed. If you change the
default horn recording (next section), then this will change as well to the appropriate
tone.
F12 Servicing Mode
When switching, rules indicate a locomotive should have both front and rear headlights
on dim. So if you are tootling around your yard or locomotive maintenance facility, press
F12 to put both front and rear headlights on dim.

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HORNS AND BELLS
The default horn on your RDC model is a Nathan M3H. Yes, we know, not all RDCs
had one, but we had to pick one. We wanted each RDC to have their unique horn
by default, but doing so would be really complicated and would’ve taken Mohan an
estimated 3,792,564 minutes of programming to accomplish that. So, we spun the
wheel of sound effects (it’s an old Wheel of Fortune wheel) and came up with the
M3H. If you wish to change the default horn, you can do so by changing CV 163.
For changing the default bell, change the value of CV 164.
Horns Bells
• CV 163-1 Nathan M3H (Default) • CV 164-0 - Steel Bell (Default)
• CV 163-2 Nathan K5H • CV 164-1 - E-Bell
• CV 163-3 Nathan K3L
• CV 163-4 Nathan K5LA
Changing the default horn automatically changes the Doppler recordings on F5 and
F11 as well for the M3H, K3L and K5LA.
SOUND VOLUME SETTINGS
The sound volume is adjustable. If maxing out all the volume settings does not make it
loud enough for you, then the entire Rapido team and fan club suggests buying a real
RDC. You can also adjust the relative volume levels of the different elements of the sound
recordings.
To set the volume levels go into the program mode on your DCC system (refer to your sys-
tem’s manual for instructions on how to do this as each system is slightly different); enter
the desired CV number; then enter the desired levels. For reliable results we recommend
using a programming track, a LokProgrammer or JMRI to make sound setting changes.
We strongly recommend that you keep notes on which settings you have changed and
which values were used. If you ever need to do a reset on the decoder (see “Factory
Reset” below) then having good notes will allow you to easily re-enter any changes that
you might want to keep.

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RDC SOUND VOLUME SETTINGS
FUNCTION CV DEFAULT RANGE YOUR VALUE
MASTER VOLUME 63 192 0-192
DIESEL VOLUME 259 80 0-128
HORN VOLUME 275 128 0-128
BELL VOLUME 283 64 0-128
SLOW DOPPLER VOLUME (F5) 339 128 0-128
FAST DOPPLER VOLUME (F11) 395 128 0-128
AIR LETOFF VOLUME 363 128 0-128
STARTUP COMPRESSOR VOLUME 419 55 0-128
RANDOM COMPRESSOR VOLUME 451 75 0-128
BRAKE VOLUME 459 128 0-128
FACTORY RESET
On your RDC, you perform a factory reset by entering a value of “8” into CV 8. Note
that this will cause all of your new volume and motor settings to be lost, so you will need
to reprogram any settings that you want to keep. You did keep notes, right?
You can NOT lose all of the pre-recorded sounds on your RDC decoder by doing a
factory reset. If you manage to lose all of the sounds on your locomotive then you have
probably set fire to your decoder with a voltage spike, and chances are you have an
MRC 1300 and didn’t read the instructions before running your RDC… specifically the
bit about not using an MRC 1300 with your RDC. Open up your RDC and pour out the
congealed blob that used to be a decoder.
AWESOME SLOW SPEED THINGY ELIMINATED!
This is no longer a thing. That’s right, there is no more awesome slow speed thingy!
Period! End quote! ESU made refinements to the programming and with the advanced
motor control of the V5 decoders, this is no longer necessary because your RDC
should already have fabulous motor control. If you choose to try to implement it by
reading an old manual and applying it to your locomotive, then your warranty is
void. Yes, we said it. VOID! There should be no reason to apply changes to the Back-
EMF of your decoder. If you feel inclined, then there may be an underlying issue that
needs to be corrected. Please contact us if you’re having any motor control issues
or concerns regarding your locomotive and we’ll be glad to assist. Actually, contact
ESU. We can even give you their home address if they don’t get back to you. And
we’ll provide the noisemaker for you to let them know you are there at 3 a.m.