Rapido trains Canadian pacific ry cp d10 4-6-0 Instruction Manual

CP D10 4-6-0 LOCOMOTIVE PRODUCT GUIDELINES

Thank you for purchasing the next release in Rapido’s Icons of Canadian Steam

series – the Canadian Paciﬁc’s most proliﬁc steam engine, the Ten-Wheeler D10.

If this is your ﬁrst Rapido locomotive, we must ask – why is this your ﬁrst Rapido

locomotive? No, seriously, we’ve been around now for 20 years now and have

been pumping out a lot of beauty Canadian products. We’ve produced a metric

tonne of Canadian products, like the Canadian, Royal Hudson, Dash 8-40CM, RS-

18u, RSC-14, M-420, GP9RM+slug, F59PH, etc. So just for that, we’re going to

make sure you LOVE your D10. And then you’ll say to yourself, “What have We

missed out on all these years? We need to ﬁnd and buy every Rapido model that has

ever been made, in every scale! Especially the UK ones!” Then someone will yell at

you for referring to yourself in the 3rd person like royalty when you clearly are not.

If you are a returning customer, welcome back! Just put your engine on the track.

All we ask is you don’t intentionally set it on ﬁre, don’t use it on a daredevil stunt off

the end of the layout, don't coat it in marshmallow Fluff, and don’t MU it to anything

made by Tyco. Oh, and REALLY keep it away from cheap DC controllers. Crappy

power packs can quickly and easily give any Rapido locomotive an unwanted

makeover…and not the good kind (but at least it will melt the Fluff into gooey

goodness!).

If this is your ﬁrst Rapido Manual, we should warn you up front -- there’s usually a

good amount of humour through these manuals. Well, at least we think so. We have

gotten some comments from people that don’t agree, but we suspect that they have

had their sense of humor surgically removed (we think it's near the spleen). After all,

model railroading is supposed to be fun!

As always, if there is anything amiss with your D10, please do not hesitate to

email (ser[email protected]) but you can also try to reach us by phone, the

postal service, or two cans with a string (you must provide the string). Our contact

info is near the back of this manual.

However, PLEASE do not send a faulty model back to us without ﬁrst getting

authorization. You wouldn’t believe how many times we get a delivery of a broken

locomotive with only a name inside (sometimes only the FIRST name), meaning we

have no idea what’s wrong with it! (Hey Rick – your package of pantographs is

still sitting on the shelf in our bathroom.) If the issue with your model is something

simple – like a loose grab iron – then we’ll likely tell you how to ﬁx it yourself.

While we generally will support repairs to your D10 for a considerable length of

time, please realize that eventually the parts supply will run out. That, or the Earth

will be overrun by tribbles and all humans will become their pets; whichever comes

ﬁrst. Unfortunately, that will dictate when we can no longer help you. Again, please

make sure you contact us ﬁrst so we can tell you whether there’s enough parts (or

quadrotriticale) left to do your repair.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Prototype History................................................................................................4

Assembling Your Locomotive ...............................................................................4

Break-In ............................................................................................................5

How to Hold Your Locomotive .............................................................................5

Checking and Adjusting Your Locomotive..............................................................6

Missing or Damaged Parts ..................................................................................6

Additional Features ............................................................................................7

Removing the Shell.............................................................................................8

Operation – DC (Silent) ....................................................................................10

Installing a DCC Decoder..................................................................................10

Operation – DC (Sound) ...................................................................................11

Operation – DCC (Sound).................................................................................12

• Locomotive Address .............................................................................13

• Turn On the Sound ...............................................................................13

• Functions ............................................................................................14

• Custom Sound Settings .........................................................................18

• Mo-Power ...........................................................................................19

• Sound Volume Settings .........................................................................19

• Sound Volume Settings Chart ................................................................20

• Factory Reset ...................................................................................... 20

More Information ............................................................................................ 21

Limited Warranty ............................................................................................21

Acknowledgements .........................................................................................22

D10 DCC FUNCTIONS

F0 Directional Headlights & Dynamo

F1 Bell

F2 Whistle

F3 Coupler Clank

F4 Coast Mode

F5 Coal Shoveling

F6 Class Lights

F7 Dim the Headlights

F8 Chuff Sounds

F9 Heavy Load Mode

F10 Independent Brake

F12 Manual Cylinder Cocks

F13 Cab Light

F14 Numberboards

F15 Doppler Whistle

F16 Injector

F18 Ash Dump

F19 Blowdown

F20 Safety Valve

F21 Air Pump Slow

F22 Headlight (without dynamo)

F24 Blower

F25 Oil Burner Blower

F26 Short Whistles

F27 Air Pump Fast

F28 Auto Brake Set/Release

F29 Flange Squeal

F30 Rod Clank Off

Sound-equipped Rapido models feature ESU Loksound V5

decoders. For more information, please visit www.esu.eu.

PROTOTYPE HISTORY

The D10-class Ten-Wheeler was the most numerous class of steam locomotive not only

for the CPR but in all of Canada. Five hundred and two of these useful 4-6-0s were

built between 1905 and 1913, and many lasted until the end of CP steam service

in 1961. D10s were employed in freight and passenger work across Canada and

into the United States on CP’s many lines. There is truly no more useful locomotive

for any steam-era CPR layout than the D10.

The D10 design, introduced in 1905, was a reasonably powerful 4-6-0 which

would be versatile and satisfy many different applications. Orders for D10s were

placed simultaneously with CPR Angus Shops, Montreal Locomotive Works, and

the Canadian Locomotive Company in Kingston, Ontario. Forty were built in the

U.S.A. by Richmond Locomotive & Machine Works and Schenectady Locomotive

Works. The D10 top speed was 65 mph but they were quite rough riding at higher

speeds because there was no trailing truck to stabilize them. The D10 was a straight

forward design, relatively easy to maintain, tough and dependable. D10s were

well-liked by engine crews and shop forces and were used on almost all of CP’s lines

across the country in both branch and mainline service.

followed the design of the earlier D9s with the main difference being that the D10s

were superheated locomotives. Vaughan was a great proponent of superheating

and he can be credited with bringing the CPR into the modern age. Locomotives

equipped with superheaters had a fuel saving of approximately 10%. Simplicity,

robustness and an ability to go more or less anywhere on the system ensured that

the D10s enjoyed a long working life. The D10g and D10h engines had 63-inch

diameter drivers, 21” X 28” cylinders, an engine weight of 202,200 lbs, a total

engine and tender in working order weight of 351,200 lbs, a maximum tractive

effort of 33,000 lbs, and overall wheel base 54’ 1”. They were hand-ﬁred coal

burners with open cabs. The tender’s capacities were 5,000 Imperial gallons of

water and 12 tons of coal.

When built, the engines were numbered in the 2700-series but in the 1912

reclassiﬁcation of power, the D10g class were renumbered to the 900-series.

ASSEMBLING YOUR LOCOMOTIVE AND TENDER

Put your locomotive and tender on the track. Note the plug on the locomotive needs

to go into the socket on the tender. If the locomotive or tender is not properly on

the track, the plug and socket will not connect. Connecting them is super easy and

smooth. They just click together. If they do not click together, DO NOT FORCE

THEM. Check that the plug and socket are perfectly aligned. If you force them

together and the plug and socket are misaligned, you will destroy your decoder.

BREAK-IN

Just so we’re clear, that doesn’t mean break into anyone’s layout room to steal their

D10. And don’t break into a hobby shop either because that is really frowned upon.

Just buy more for yourself. But this isn’t about that kind of break-in.

Every locomotive needs a break-in period. Your D10 has been tested at our factory

for about two minutes…maybe…just to make sure everything functions as it should.

That is certainly not enough time to get the gears to mesh nicely or to even out any

jerky operation in a new motor. We suggest that, after reading this manual, you put

your D10 on a test loop and just let it run in each direction for an hour or two. Fast

and slow. Don’t have it pulling anything either while you’re breaking it in.

There already should be enough grease in the gearbox so you don’t need to add

any. Just let the thing run. If you are running this thing on track on the carpet, please

vacuum ﬁrst. You have no idea how many models come back to us with gearboxes

full of carpet ﬂuff and pet fur. Our models are not cat-proof.

HOW TO HOLD YOUR LOCOMOTIVE

Hold your D10 gently, and with much love, care, and attention as your model

has numerous delicate parts. If you want to back date it to be the quality of a

model produced in the 1950s, then rip all the parts off and handle it like a box

of poutine after skipping breakfast. We’re assuming you don’t want to do that,

so the D10 should be picked up carefully. It is best to pick up the engine with the

ﬁngers of one hand along the bottom edges of the running boards (avoiding the air

pump and reverser) while grabbing the bottom edge of the tender frame with the

ﬁngers of your other hand and lift both together. That way you won’t leave greasy

ﬁngerprints on the boiler or tender and you also won’t stress any of the delicate

parts. NEVER PICK UP A STEAM ENGINE BY THE VALVE GEAR OR SIDERODS!

They are very delicate. We also don’t recommend using only one hand to pick up

both engine and tender at the same time; there is no applause for juggling. Always

make sure your hands are free of shmutz before touching your engine, otherwise

you’ll shmutz it up. However, if your hands have enough grease, soot, and oil on

them, that could be quite realistic as clean steam engines only exist in museums.

If you are taking your D10 to the club all the time and regularly handling it, stuff

will likely break off. Sorry. The little bits are made of plastic and metal and attached

with glue, which is all a bit fragile. We attempted to make the small parts out of

unobtainium and use Steady-State Micro Welding to install them. Unfortunately, with

the current global supply crisis, unobtainium has become unobtainable.

We suggest wrapping your D10 in a plastic bag before placing it in the packaging

or in your holder so you can catch bits that fall off. White glue is the recommended

adhesive for reattaching the bits, although you are welcome to use CA but only if

you are very careful or very brave. Remember to apply the CA to the part and not

to the model (don’t ask us how we know this).

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING YOUR LOCOMOTIVE

We try and make sure that every locomotive is perfectly up to spec before it leaves

the factory, but if it was a Monday night and our factory workers were arguing over

last night’s mahjong game rather than assembling models, there may be a couple of

bugs. Doing a quick pre-service check will solve most operational glitches.

• Check to see that all wheelsets are correctly in gauge using an NMRA RP-2

Standards Gauge. Should any of the leading or tender truck wheelsets be

out of gauge, just remove the affected wheelset from the truck. The wheelset

can be regauged by grabbing each wheel and twisting. DO NOT TWIST A

DRIVER WHEELSET!!! If your drivers are out of gauge, please contact us for a

replacement.

• Check that all piping and appliances are ﬁrmly installed and clear of the

track. Bend up any low coupler trip pins so they don’t interfere with your

switches and crossings. We recommend using Kadee part #237 (Trip Pin

Pliers) or Micro-Mark part #80600 (Trip Pin Bending Plier).

• Make sure that the tender and lead trucks swivel freely and without binding. If

they catch on anything, check to ensure that the ends of the trucks don’t bind

against any underbody components. If they do, see that everything is ﬁrmly

installed. If the engine is sitting at a 45-degree vertical angle, the leading

truck is probably sideways so turn the truck around. Don’t try to do wheelies

with your $600 steam engine model.

MISSING OR DAMAGED PARTS

If you open your D10 box and discover that something has obviously been bumped

in transit and is damaged, please contact us. We know that some of you don’t like

the idea of human beings touching your models, but if it is a matter of gluing an air

pump back on you can do it yourself in less than a minute with a drop of white glue.

You can’t ruin the paint ﬁnish with white glue. If you really want to send your model

back to us for us to install that, we would be happy to. But if you do send it back to

us for us to put that one part back on and other stuff falls off when we send it back

to you, then tough tooties. We’re not ﬁxing it again. Just ask your granddaughter to

install the part for you; it will take her at least three minutes.

We try to make our models courier- and mail-proof, but there really is no way to

protect a model from damage when it is used in a game of football at the UPS

or FedEx distribution center. Model trains generally don’t survive well after being

“spiked” because Mikey strip sacked the QB near the warehouse loading dock.

If you see some parts are missing and they are not ﬂoating around the packaging, let

us know and we will send you replacements. More information about our warranty

can be found towards the end of this manual.

ADDITIONAL FEATURES

Of course, like any steam engine, the D10s appearance changed over the years

with several variations in design based on updated technology and style. Let’s have

a look at what some of the interesting D10 features are:

TENDER

From 1941 to 1956 a number of D10g/h engines were converted from using

coal to Bunker C oil for service primarily in British Columbia.

HEADLIGHT

When delivered, D10s had a half-moon headlight mounted on the top of

the smoke box and a number plate in the center of the smokebox. Later

many were ﬁtted with a cylindrical Pyle-National headlight centered on the

smokebox door.

FRONT NUMBERBOARDS

A ﬂat numberboard atop the front of the smokebox was the original mounting

location after the headlight was moved to the center of the smokebox, but this

was later changed to an angled numberboard that was easier for towermen

to read as the engine sped past.

POWER REVERSER

Some D10s were upgraded with a power reverse mechanism, a device that

made switching movements easier for the engineer. It was along the right-side

running board.

BELL LOCATION

When delivered the bell was mounted behind the stack but later many had the

bell relocated to between the two domes.

REMOVING THE SHELL

If you need to open your D10 to install a crew or a decoder, you will need to follow

these steps:

• We recommend that you only attempt opening up your locomotive in a

zero-gravity environment. That way, if a part does break off, it will just be

suspended there, right where you broke it, ready for you to reinstall it. If you

don’t have a zero-gravity chamber, then we suggest not installing shag carpet

in your workspace. Yes, it looks great and yes it feels great on bare feet, but

Rapido employees have experience in understanding that whatever detail bits

fall into shag carpet are gone forever. No questions, it’s not coming back.

• To that end, please make every effort to ensure nothing ﬂies away. We

normally suggest you work in a room with everything white – walls, ﬂoor,

ceiling, workbench, tools, clothes – everything. But doing so would be very

boring (albeit practical) so that’s likely not the case, is it?

• To remove the boiler, ﬁrst remove the smaller pair of screws (a) on the bottom

of the cab that are centered under the windows; these are partially covered by

ﬂexible pipes you should be able to move out of the way with the screwdriver.

(NOTE: Do not remove the larger pair of screws under the front of the cab as

they hold the chassis together.)

Those of you familiar with other

model steam locomotives may

rush ahead, assuming that the

pilot truck screw will need to be

removed. You’d be wrong. HAH!

We bet you wished you read this

ﬁrst, eh? Read on...

• Near the bottom of the external front wall

of the cab, remove each small lever (b)

that connects the front cab wall to the

walkway.

• The bottom pin of each vertical grabiron

disengaged from the chassis and moved

slightly to the rear (you can leave the rest

of the grabiron connected to the cab).

• The boiler blow down valve (d) on the ﬁreman's (left) side of the ﬁrebox

between the #2 and #3 drivers needs to be removed.

(a)

(b) (c)

(a)

(d)

• Under the smokebox at the front of the

engine are two angled wire rods (e)

connected to each other by a platform

under the headlight. These rods need to

be disengaged from the pilot deck and

lifted clear from the holes at the front of

the chassis.

• Lastly, lift up slightly on the rear of the

cab to raise the cab/boiler assembly

clear of the cab seats, and then move the

boiler slightly forward to clear the latch

on the underside of the smokebox. Once

unhooked at the front, the entire boiler

can be lifted straight up and clear of the

chassis.

If you are working in a zero-gravity

environment, the chassis will slowly drift away from the boiler. On the other

hand, if you are not in a zero-gravity environment, remember that gravity

sucks. If you hold your loco boiler upright, the chassis will now plummet to the

nearest solid object. Hopefully that is not a concrete ﬂoor. You may want to

do this carefully over some foam sheet (painted white!) on top of your white

workbench.

• If you wish to change out the decoder, then just follow the previous steps

about removing the boiler. It will expose all the wonders that lie within.

• If you wish to install a crew inside your D10, removing the boiler isn't

necessary as the back of the cab is wide open. Just use some tweezers and

put an engineer (on the right) and ﬁreman (on the left) into their seats. We

recommend using a removable adhesive like Hob-E-Tac®because if the ﬁgures

stick out of the side windows, it will prevent the removing of the cab/boiler

from the chassis. We suppose you could chop their arms and heads off, but

then you'd have a zombie train crew.

• The open the tender up, simply remove the screws under each corner of the

tender chassis and the tender tank will lift clear.

At this point you should have the entire boiler off the frame and the tender in two

pieces, as long as you followed our simple instructions. We don’t know how to put

them back together, so from here you’re on your own. Just read the instructions

backwards and you should be ok. If you ﬁnd a cryptic message while reading the

instructions backwards, it’s not our fault.

(e)

Any requests for replacement models because you broke a part off will be met with

laughter, followed by sadness, then laughter again, and then a very polite suggestion

that you should model a locomotive rebuilder and use your recently broken loco as

scenery. We did warn you after all. If we can assist, then all joking aside we’ll make

every effort to do so. But note that we don’t have an inﬁnite supply of boilers, cabs,

and detail parts to replace broken or missing parts. Pro tip: if you're going to break

something, do it sooner rather than later while we still have the parts.

OPERATION – DC (SILENT)

If your D10 locomotive is not equipped with a sound decoder, it should function like

most other HO scale locomotives. Put it on the track. Give it some juice. Watch it

go. In DC, the track inspection lights, ﬁrebox glow, and numberboard(s) are always

on, and the headlights are directional along with the white class lights; they are lit

while running forwards and turn off in reverse. All other lights are wired, but they

will not work in DC.

If you are new to the hobby (or just like to occasionally “play trains”) and you have

a DC-powered train set, please contact us before operating your D10 as it may not

be safe (for your engine and/or your wallet) for you to use your controller.

Some train set throttles put out a very high maximum voltage that is not suitable for

scale model trains. The maximum recommended voltage is 16 volts DC. Similarly,

controllers designed for large scale trains put out a much higher voltage than your

D10 can handle. Please see the highlighted warning not too much further in this

manual.

If you use a train set throttle or a throttle designed for large scale trains, your

locomotive’s circuitry may end up looking like a TV dinner forgotten in the microwave

after you accidentally punched in an extra digit into the timer. In such situations,

we’ll try our best to ﬁx it for you, but it may be beyond salvaging. Please note we

may have to charge you for the replacement parts and/or the labor involved in

restoring it to its former self. That’s because you didn’t read this bit of the manual.

For those of you who are reading this, hi! How’s it going? Didja know that hockey

season starts soon?

INSTALLING A DCC DECODER

The D10 contains a motherboard specially designed for our decoders. This is

connected to the track, motor and lighting outputs. A blind plug is attached to

the motherboard using a 21-pin connector. To install a decoder, remove the blind

plug and install a 21-pin decoder. Your chosen decoder should have eight function

outputs.

At the time of writing, we recommend only the following non-sound 21-pin decoders:

• ESU #59029 - LokPilot 5 Basic with 21MTC

• ESU #59629 - LokPilot 5 DCC with 21MTC

We feel the 21-pin connectors are superior because there are enough pins to ensure

that all your lighting functions are connected. The necessary resistors are included

on our motherboard so you don’t have to futz around with resistors. Just plug in one

of the recommended decoders and you have DCC. We know some of you prefer

a different brand of decoder, but we honestly can’t help you install it or map the

functions.

We have made a D10 function mapping which can be downloaded onto ESU

decoders so that the function buttons and motor control are exactly the same as

our factory-released sound versions. This should be available for download

from the Support section of our web site. If it isn’t, bug us. You will need an ESU

LokProgrammer to write the function mapping to the 59029 or 59629 decoders. If

you don’t have a LokProgrammer, you can adjust CVs in the usual way.

We will be selling D10 sound decoders separately; if they aren’t on our web site

by the time you read this, call our ofﬁce, pick a random number between 1 and

75, divide by ¾, multiply by √π2, and then take the second last number. Call that

extension and you’ll be redirected to someone whom you can yell at. Look at us −

we use the correct pronoun and then end the sentence with a preposition. This is

a metaphor for the contradictory nature of human existence! You can ﬁnd further

editions of this manual in the philosophy department of your local bookstore.

If you want to install a decoder other than the one we suggest, it’s more than just

plugging in the decoder and then playing trains. You will have to custom map all the

functions. It’s just how it is. We won’t apologize for that. Sorry, eh?

OPERATION – DC (SOUND)

To operate your sound-equipped D10 locomotive on a DC layout, just give the

throttle some juice. The engine will start up once sufﬁcient voltage has been reached

(around seven volts). See the note above (in Operation – DC (Silent)) about using

train-set or large-scale throttles. With DC layouts, you have very little control over

the sounds of your model.

— WARNING —

Rapido products are designed to operate safely between 0V and 16V.

Voltages in excess of 16V - as well as irregular waveforms, voltage spikes

or short circuits - may cause severe and sometimes irreversible damage to

the product. “Train set” power packs are known to suffer from any one of

these unexpected irregularities, whereas higher-end systems have safeguards

in place to prevent this. Rapido always recommends using a power supply

system that matches the quality of the models you are running. If you’re

reading this, you’ve obviously invested in top-of-the-line, museum-quality

motive power and equipment, so we hope you’ve made the same investment

with your model railroad power supply too.

While many power supply systems exist, some are known to have caused

problems with model train circuitry in the past. If you have any one of the

following systems, PLEASE DO NOT USE IT until you contact us for more

information: MRC RailPower 1300/1370-series, Bachman Spectrum

Magnum, Atlas 313 Universal Power Pack.

The DC lighting is limited. Some throttle manufacturers produce special gadget-like

thingies which are meant to trigger the sounds in locomotives on DC layouts. As

we have no involvement in the development of those gadget-like thingies, we have

absolutely no idea how they will affect your D10, for good or for ill, for richer or

poorer, in sickness and in…sorry, wrong transcript. As always, we’ll try to help you

ﬁx your D10 if one of these gadget-like thingies turns your locomotive’s circuitry into

something akin to glowing magma, but we can’t guarantee we’ll be able to.

OPERATION – DCC (SOUND)

We go to extreme lengths for accuracy, in sounds as well as in looks. Our sound

decoders are LokSound V5 decoders by ESU. The sounds are about as bang-on

accurate as we can make them. D10s weighed in at some 350,000 lbs. in working

order, therefore a certain amount of starting momentum has been pre-programmed

into the decoder to replicate that massive weight. If you want to eliminate the delay

to speed up, program starting momentum CV3=00, but when freight customers

complain about their damaged cargo or passengers complain about their spilled

drinks in the diner, don't blame us!

More detailed decoder instructions, including all sorts of weird CV settings we don’t

understand, can be found in the ESU LokSound V5 decoder manual. It is available

for download from the support section of our web site or directly from the ESU

website.

LOCOMOTIVE ADDRESS

Your Rapido D10 comes from the factory with a decoder address of 3. We suggest

if you are using DCC control that you ﬁrst test that the locomotive responds on

address 3 to all functions – motor, lights, sounds, everything. Once you have

veriﬁed that the locomotive is responding, you should assign it a unique address

(normally the road number of the unit) before going any further. This can be done

either on your programming track (recommended) or on the main if your system

supports programming on the main. Be aware however that if you do program the

locomotive on the main and you have any other locomotives assigned to address

3 (the normal default address for new locomotives) that ALL of them will also be

changed to your new address! This is great if you want to simulate a bunch of kids

getting into the engine shop, notching the controllers, and then heading for the hills.

Note that some DCC systems get a little wonky when programming sound-equipped

locomotives on the programming track because of the high current draw. If weird

stuff happens, try programming on the main or use a programming track booster.

TURN ON THE SOUND

Press F8 and you will hear the D10 start hissing as it builds steam. Fortunately, you

don’t have to wait for an hour or two for the locomotive to build up to a full working

pressure. You can just drive off and listen to the wondrous noise! You can adjust CVs

to prevent the locomotive from moving until the startup sequence has played out.

Most of us at Rapido are really impatient so we turned this feature off. Refer to a full

ESU LokSound V5 decoder manual for more information. You can download it from

the Support section of our web site. The feature is called the “Prime Mover Startup

Delay” and is Section 13.2 on Page 89 of the ESU LokSound V5 manual.

If you press F8 when the locomotive is already moving, it will skip the startup and

the sound will just turn on. Press F8 again to turn the sound off.

Note that if you are listening to your D10 hissing nicely and then you select another

engine with your throttle, your locomotive still thinks F8 is pressed so it will keep

— RECOMMENDATION —

We recommend that the tender be unplugged from the boiler and off

the rails if using a DCC programming track. The Mo-Power (see page

19) device in the tender can soak up enough of the digital program-

ming signal that there won't be enough energy to write to or read from

the decoder; even programming track boosters don't always work.

simmering. However, if someone else selects your locomotive’s number and F8 isn’t

pressed on their controller, the D10 will promptly go silent. They will need to press

F8 again.

FUNCTIONS

FUNCTIONS: MORE INFORMATION

F0 Directional Headlights & Dynamo

Starts up the dynamo, then turns the headlight on in the direction of travel when

the dynamo generates enough power. Reversing the direction will change the light

to the one on the tender deck. Pressing F0 again will power down the light and

dynamo. If you want to turn on the headlight without the dynamo sound, see F22.

F1 Bell

Probably one of the most difﬁcult sounds to master is the bell because it’s such a

noticeable feature, and no matter what, chances are they all had their own unique

tone to them. We have provided ﬁve slightly different bell sounds so that you can

add a little variety to your huge ﬂeet of D10s. You DO have a huge ﬂeet of D10s,

don’t you? You can choose between the bells by changing CV164 to a value of 0

through 4.

F2 Whistle

We love our whistles. Like really! Seriously, who doesn’t love a good sounding

steam whistle? So, we’re now providing a wide range of whistles for you to apply

to your locomotive as appropriate or as you see ﬁt (even if it’s not appropriate). To

get a short “toot” just tap F2 or your “HORN” button. If you hear a long tail-off, you

F0 Directional Headlights & Dynamo

F1 Bell

F2 Whistle

F3 Coupler Clank

F4 Coast Mode

F5 Coal Shoveling

F6 Class Lights

F7 Dim the Headlights

F8 Chuff Sounds

F9 Heavy Load Mode

F10 Independent Brake

F12 Manual Cylinder Cocks

F13 Cab Light

F14 Numberboards

F15 Doppler Whistle

F16 Injector

F18 Ash Dump

F19 Blowdown

F20 Safety Valve

F21 Air Pump Slow

F22 Headlight (without dynamo)

F24 Blower

F25 Oil Burner Blower

F26 Short Whistles

F27 Air Pump Fast

F28 Auto Brake Set/Release

F29 Flange Squeal

F30 Rod Clank Off

are tapping too long. We’ve included ten whistle options; change CV163 to a value

of 0 through 9 to select them. Refer to the “Custom Sound Settings” section below to

see which whistles are which (say that ﬁve times fast).

F3 Coupler Clank

The real D10, including its tender, weighs over 175 tons, and when it couples up to

a 50 ton freight car or an 80 ton passenger car, there's going to be some noise. Hit

F3 to get that noise. It helps, of course, to hit F3 the moment you strike the coupler of

a car, otherwise it makes it sound possessed by spirits of scrapped D10s.

F4 Coast Mode (Rod Clank)

Coast mode simulates the engineer closing the throttle, either to slow down or when

going downgrade. Pressing F4 will disable the throttle and drop the sound volume

down to a drift. You’ll hear the rod clank. You can then use the throttle to adjust the

chuff level to where you want it. Pressing F4 again will return to regular operation.

F5 Coal Shoveling

Pressing F5 activates the shoveling sound to replicate the ﬁreman hand ﬁring the

loco. If your D10 is an oil burner, don’t press F5; it would stuff up the ﬁrebox

something ﬁerce and you'll be a ﬁred ﬁreman. Use F25 to hear the oil being injected.

F6 Class Lights

Turns the class lights on. Pressing the function repeatedly will run through a white /

green /off sequence. Green lights were used to designate that a second section was

following, while white class lights meant it was an extra movement.

F7 Dim the Headlights

When approaching a station stop or an oncoming train, press F7 to dim your

lights – you don’t want to blind passengers on the platform or the oncoming train’s

engineers. Not dimming your lights is a direct violation of what’s commonly referred

to as “Rule 17”. The internet can answer all your questions about said rule.

F8 Chuff Sounds

Normally, this is where the start-up and shut-down function is located, but we didn't

think anyone wanted to listen to that multi-hour process. Besides, the sound decoder

doesn't have enough memory. Instead, pressing F8 turns on the exhaust chuffs, the

ﬁrebox glow, and the other automatic sounds, but you can still blow the whistle, ring

the bell, etc.

If you have a DCC system that only allows eight functions, you can remap the

following functions following the guidelines in the ESU LokSound V5 manual,

which can be downloaded from the support section of our web site. Or you

can upgrade to a newer DCC system, which may be less stressful.

F9 Heavy Load Mode

“Heavy Load” allows you to adjust the “Steam Cut Off Valve” at any speed allowing

for a ﬁerce full chuff or drifting with snifters and rod clanks. Heavy load can also

act as an offset allowing speed adjustments when engaged if desired. Pressing F9

again returns to normal operation.

F10 Independent Brake

F10 works just like the brakes on a real engine. Press F10 and you put on the brakes.

Turn off F10 and the brakes come off, so you can start moving again. Change

CV165 from 0 to 5 to hear the various glories that are cast iron brake shoes.

F12 Manual Cylinder Cocks

Before starting off, you should open the cylinder cocks to clear any condensation

from the cylinders to prevent bending a piston rod. You can shut them again once

the train is moving. Note that this is an automatic sound as well that is activated if

the engine has been sitting for a period of time.

F13 Cab Light

When the sun sets or you are in a tunnel, how do you read your train orders (or see

our awesome backhead detail)? Lighting an oil lantern wasn't easy in a cab being

jostled about at speed (and back then a "cell phone" was the phone inside the local

jail), so just turn on the cab light instead. Just remember to turn if off as soon as

possible so as not to ruin your night vision.

F14 Numberboard(s)

The numberboard(s) are lit by default. We hate having to turn numberboard(s) back

on after a power failure. If you want to turn them off, press F14.

F15 Doppler Whistle

You can play this when approaching level crossings or any other whistle post. The

doppler is nicely timed for a moderately paced train blowing for a level crossing.

When you change the default whistle for F2, the doppler whistle will also change to

the appropriate tone as well. It’s like we’re wizards or something!

F16 Injector

Your boiler needs water over the crown sheet of the ﬁrebox or it will explode. Press

F16 to put water into the boiler from the tender. Use of real water will void your

warranty.

F18 Ash Dump

After a hard run, pull up on the ash pit and dump the ashes by pressing F18.

However, oil burners don’t have ash! Hey you Western guys, DON’T PRESS THIS!

F19 Blowdown

Clean out any crud that may have accumulated in the lower parts of the water jacket

and mud ring by pressing F19. Just make sure that nobody is standing next to the

loco when you do!

F20 Safety Valve

Let off some steam! Used to prevent boiler explosions due to over-pressurization,

safety valves are mounted on the dome in front of the cab. Note that this sound

is automatically generated at random as well, provided the ﬁreman hasn't fallen

asleep.

F21 Air Pump Slow

Activates a slow air brake pump sound, useful for just topping up the train line

pressure after normal use.

F22 Headlight (without dynamo)

Electric lights on a steam engine are driven by a dynamo that, with a steady whine

of escaping steam, spins a turbine generator. This can become annoying in a small

layout room, so we've added the ability to turn on the headlight without hearing that

sweet, high-pitched sound...all...the...time.

F24 Blower

Adds draft to the ﬁre, for use when the engine is stationary or coasting.

F25 Oil Burner Blower

This feeds the ﬁre on oil burners.

F26 Short Whistles

When you stop at a station, you give a short toot. When you're ready to depart,

you play two quick toots. If backing up, you toot the whistle three times. F26 is quite

useful for giving these kinds of quick whistle signals, especially if your F2 button

likes to stick.

F27 Air Pump Fast

Activates a fast air brake pump sound, useful for when you've just coupled up to a

string of cars that have no air pressure after sitting idle for a few weeks.

F28 Auto Brake Set/Release

This function turns off the brake release and brake set sounds when you start or stop

moving, respectively. It has no effect on the function of the engine — it just affects

the sounds.

F29 Flange Squeal

If you don't have enough ﬂange squeal in your life, re-map F29 to a lower function

number so you can play it on your DCC throttle. It can be kind of high pitched and

loud so you might want to turn it down. WE SAID YOU MIGHT WANT TO TURN

DOWN THE FLANGE SQUEAL!

F30 Rod Clank Off

Not everyone feels our passion for rod clanks, so we've inserted a function to turn

that sound off when you coast. To use it, however, will require re-mapping F30 to a

lower function number so a DCC throttle can access it.

CUSTOM SOUND SETTINGS

The D10 engines were in use for decades and, as such, each one tended to sound

a little different from her sisters. They could even feature slightly different bell tones,

dynamos, air pumps, different brake materials and everything else in between.

The default whistle on your model is from CPR 4-6-2 #2317. We have justiﬁed doing

this because it's a CPR whistle and we like it. You can change the default whistle

by changing the value of CV 163 (see below). We’ve also chosen defaults in the

remaining categories because someone had to make the important decisions. They

can all be changed by adjusting the value of their respective CVs.

Whistles

• CV163=0 HVSR #3 Crosby 3-Chime

• CV163=1 D&RGW 5-Chime

• CV163=2 Soo Line #1003

• CV163=3 SP #4449 Daylight

• CV163=4 Single Chime Hooter

• CV163=5 CPR #2317 (default)

• CV163=6 Western Maryland 6-Chime

• CV163=7 CN 4-Chime

• CV163=8 PRR Banshee #1

• CV163=9 D&RGW #484

Bells

• CV 164=0 #3 HVSF Bell (default)

• CV 164=1 Pnuematic Bell

• CV 164=2 Rope Pull Bell

• CV 164=3 Soo Line #1003 Bell

• CV 164=4 D&RGW K-27 Bell

Brake Squeal

• CV 165=0 Brake Squeal #1 Long

• CV 165=1 Brake Squeal #1 Short

• CV 165=2 Brake Squeal #2 Long

• CV 165=3 Brake Squeal #2 Short

• CV 165=4 Brake Squeal #3 Long

• CV 165=5 Brake Squeal #4 Short

Dynamos

• CV 166=0 Soo Line #1003 Dynamo

• CV 166=1 K-27 #463 Dynamo (default)

• CV 166=2 T16.1 Dynamo

Reversers

• CV 168=0 Manual Johnson Bar

• CV 168=1 Power Reverse

Air Pumps

• CV 167=0 Cross Compound #1 Soo Line #1003

• CV 167=1 Cross Compound #2 K-27 #463

• CV 167=2 Single Stage #1 Z27

• CV 167=3 Westinghouse Single Stage HVSR #3

Note that after you change the horn, bell or any other sound effect, you may need

to cycle the power (turn it off and on). And changing the default horn automatically

changes the doppler recording on F5, too.

MO-POWER

This model is equipped with Mo-Power, our capacitor-based temporary energy

storage system that lets a locomotive travel over dirty (or dead) rail spots without

stopping. The length each loco can move without track power varies by condition of

both track and model; your mileage my vary, long-distance rates may apply. NOTE:

You will not have control of the loco when running on Mo-Power energy, and if

you're used to a loco stopping when it shorts at a mis-aligned switch, forget it. Like

the prototype, it's not going to stop just because the points are thrown against you

(at least until the capacitors are drained). The lengths we go to for more realism!

SOUND VOLUME SETTINGS

The sound volumes on your decoder have been pre-set at the factory to levels that

we found comfortable on our test tracks.

Sound levels are very much a matter of personal taste (especially if you are showing

signs of advanced deafness like we are), and what sounds great in one layout

environment may sound too loud or too soft in another. Fortunately, the sound levels

can be easily adjusted to best suit your own requirements and we recommend that

you experiment with different settings if you don’t care for the default levels.

To set the volume levels go into the program mode on your DCC system (refer to

your system’s manual for instructions on how to do this as each system is slightly

different); enter the desired CV number; then enter the desired levels. Note that this

can be done either on a programming track or on the main (Ops mode) if your DCC

system supports programming on the main.

We strongly recommend that you keep notes on which settings you have changed,

and which values were used. If you ever need to do a reset on the decoder (see

“Factory Reset” below) then having good notes will allow you to easily re-enter any

changes that you wish to keep.