Rapido Trains Canadian Pacific Ry CP D10 4-6-0 Instruction Manual

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CP D10 4-6-0 LOCOMOTIVE PRODUCT GUIDELINES
Thank you for purchasing the next release in Rapido’s Icons of Canadian Steam
series – the Canadian Pacific’s most prolific steam engine, the Ten-Wheeler D10.
If this is your first Rapido locomotive, we must ask – why is this your first Rapido
locomotive? No, seriously, we’ve been around now for 20 years now and have
been pumping out a lot of beauty Canadian products. We’ve produced a metric
tonne of Canadian products, like the Canadian, Royal Hudson, Dash 8-40CM, RS-
18u, RSC-14, M-420, GP9RM+slug, F59PH, etc. So just for that, we’re going to
make sure you LOVE your D10. And then you’ll say to yourself, “What have We
missed out on all these years? We need to find and buy every Rapido model that has
ever been made, in every scale! Especially the UK ones!” Then someone will yell at
you for referring to yourself in the 3rd person like royalty when you clearly are not.
If you are a returning customer, welcome back! Just put your engine on the track.
All we ask is you don’t intentionally set it on fire, don’t use it on a daredevil stunt off
the end of the layout, don't coat it in marshmallow Fluff, and don’t MU it to anything
made by Tyco. Oh, and REALLY keep it away from cheap DC controllers. Crappy
power packs can quickly and easily give any Rapido locomotive an unwanted
makeover…and not the good kind (but at least it will melt the Fluff into gooey
goodness!).
If this is your first Rapido Manual, we should warn you up front -- there’s usually a
good amount of humour through these manuals. Well, at least we think so. We have
gotten some comments from people that don’t agree, but we suspect that they have
had their sense of humor surgically removed (we think it's near the spleen). After all,
model railroading is supposed to be fun!
As always, if there is anything amiss with your D10, please do not hesitate to
contact us. We stand by our products 100%. The best way to contact us is through
email (ser[email protected]) but you can also try to reach us by phone, the
postal service, or two cans with a string (you must provide the string). Our contact
info is near the back of this manual.
However, PLEASE do not send a faulty model back to us without first getting
authorization. You wouldn’t believe how many times we get a delivery of a broken
locomotive with only a name inside (sometimes only the FIRST name), meaning we
have no idea what’s wrong with it! (Hey Rick – your package of pantographs is
still sitting on the shelf in our bathroom.) If the issue with your model is something
simple – like a loose grab iron – then we’ll likely tell you how to fix it yourself.
While we generally will support repairs to your D10 for a considerable length of
time, please realize that eventually the parts supply will run out. That, or the Earth
will be overrun by tribbles and all humans will become their pets; whichever comes
first. Unfortunately, that will dictate when we can no longer help you. Again, please
make sure you contact us first so we can tell you whether there’s enough parts (or
quadrotriticale) left to do your repair.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Prototype History................................................................................................4
Assembling Your Locomotive ...............................................................................4
Break-In ............................................................................................................5
How to Hold Your Locomotive .............................................................................5
Checking and Adjusting Your Locomotive..............................................................6
Missing or Damaged Parts ..................................................................................6
Additional Features ............................................................................................7
Removing the Shell.............................................................................................8
Operation – DC (Silent) ....................................................................................10
Installing a DCC Decoder..................................................................................10
Operation – DC (Sound) ...................................................................................11
Operation – DCC (Sound).................................................................................12
• Locomotive Address .............................................................................13
• Turn On the Sound ...............................................................................13
• Functions ............................................................................................14
• Custom Sound Settings .........................................................................18
• Mo-Power ...........................................................................................19
• Sound Volume Settings .........................................................................19
• Sound Volume Settings Chart ................................................................20
• Factory Reset ...................................................................................... 20
More Information ............................................................................................ 21
Limited Warranty ............................................................................................21
Acknowledgements .........................................................................................22
Contact Us .....................................................................................................22
D10 DCC FUNCTIONS
F0 Directional Headlights & Dynamo
F1 Bell
F2 Whistle
F3 Coupler Clank
F4 Coast Mode
F5 Coal Shoveling
F6 Class Lights
F7 Dim the Headlights
F8 Chuff Sounds
F9 Heavy Load Mode
F10 Independent Brake
F12 Manual Cylinder Cocks
F13 Cab Light
F14 Numberboards
F15 Doppler Whistle
F16 Injector
F18 Ash Dump
F19 Blowdown
F20 Safety Valve
F21 Air Pump Slow
F22 Headlight (without dynamo)
F24 Blower
F25 Oil Burner Blower
F26 Short Whistles
F27 Air Pump Fast
F28 Auto Brake Set/Release
F29 Flange Squeal
F30 Rod Clank Off
Sound-equipped Rapido models feature ESU Loksound V5
decoders. For more information, please visit www.esu.eu.

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PROTOTYPE HISTORY
The D10-class Ten-Wheeler was the most numerous class of steam locomotive not only
for the CPR but in all of Canada. Five hundred and two of these useful 4-6-0s were
built between 1905 and 1913, and many lasted until the end of CP steam service
in 1961. D10s were employed in freight and passenger work across Canada and
into the United States on CP’s many lines. There is truly no more useful locomotive
for any steam-era CPR layout than the D10.
The D10 design, introduced in 1905, was a reasonably powerful 4-6-0 which
would be versatile and satisfy many different applications. Orders for D10s were
placed simultaneously with CPR Angus Shops, Montreal Locomotive Works, and
the Canadian Locomotive Company in Kingston, Ontario. Forty were built in the
U.S.A. by Richmond Locomotive & Machine Works and Schenectady Locomotive
Works. The D10 top speed was 65 mph but they were quite rough riding at higher
speeds because there was no trailing truck to stabilize them. The D10 was a straight
forward design, relatively easy to maintain, tough and dependable. D10s were
well-liked by engine crews and shop forces and were used on almost all of CP’s lines
across the country in both branch and mainline service.
Designed by H. Vaughan soon after he joined the CPR in 1904, the D10-class
followed the design of the earlier D9s with the main difference being that the D10s
were superheated locomotives. Vaughan was a great proponent of superheating
and he can be credited with bringing the CPR into the modern age. Locomotives
equipped with superheaters had a fuel saving of approximately 10%. Simplicity,
robustness and an ability to go more or less anywhere on the system ensured that
the D10s enjoyed a long working life. The D10g and D10h engines had 63-inch
diameter drivers, 21” X 28” cylinders, an engine weight of 202,200 lbs, a total
engine and tender in working order weight of 351,200 lbs, a maximum tractive
effort of 33,000 lbs, and overall wheel base 54’ 1”. They were hand-fired coal
burners with open cabs. The tender’s capacities were 5,000 Imperial gallons of
water and 12 tons of coal.
When built, the engines were numbered in the 2700-series but in the 1912
reclassification of power, the D10g class were renumbered to the 900-series.
ASSEMBLING YOUR LOCOMOTIVE AND TENDER
Put your locomotive and tender on the track. Note the plug on the locomotive needs
to go into the socket on the tender. If the locomotive or tender is not properly on
the track, the plug and socket will not connect. Connecting them is super easy and
smooth. They just click together. If they do not click together, DO NOT FORCE
THEM. Check that the plug and socket are perfectly aligned. If you force them
together and the plug and socket are misaligned, you will destroy your decoder.

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BREAK-IN
Just so we’re clear, that doesn’t mean break into anyone’s layout room to steal their
D10. And don’t break into a hobby shop either because that is really frowned upon.
Just buy more for yourself. But this isn’t about that kind of break-in.
Every locomotive needs a break-in period. Your D10 has been tested at our factory
for about two minutes…maybe…just to make sure everything functions as it should.
That is certainly not enough time to get the gears to mesh nicely or to even out any
jerky operation in a new motor. We suggest that, after reading this manual, you put
your D10 on a test loop and just let it run in each direction for an hour or two. Fast
and slow. Don’t have it pulling anything either while you’re breaking it in.
There already should be enough grease in the gearbox so you don’t need to add
any. Just let the thing run. If you are running this thing on track on the carpet, please
vacuum first. You have no idea how many models come back to us with gearboxes
full of carpet fluff and pet fur. Our models are not cat-proof.
HOW TO HOLD YOUR LOCOMOTIVE
Hold your D10 gently, and with much love, care, and attention as your model
has numerous delicate parts. If you want to back date it to be the quality of a
model produced in the 1950s, then rip all the parts off and handle it like a box
of poutine after skipping breakfast. We’re assuming you don’t want to do that,
so the D10 should be picked up carefully. It is best to pick up the engine with the
fingers of one hand along the bottom edges of the running boards (avoiding the air
pump and reverser) while grabbing the bottom edge of the tender frame with the
fingers of your other hand and lift both together. That way you won’t leave greasy
fingerprints on the boiler or tender and you also won’t stress any of the delicate
parts. NEVER PICK UP A STEAM ENGINE BY THE VALVE GEAR OR SIDERODS!
They are very delicate. We also don’t recommend using only one hand to pick up
both engine and tender at the same time; there is no applause for juggling. Always
make sure your hands are free of shmutz before touching your engine, otherwise
you’ll shmutz it up. However, if your hands have enough grease, soot, and oil on
them, that could be quite realistic as clean steam engines only exist in museums.
If you are taking your D10 to the club all the time and regularly handling it, stuff
will likely break off. Sorry. The little bits are made of plastic and metal and attached
with glue, which is all a bit fragile. We attempted to make the small parts out of
unobtainium and use Steady-State Micro Welding to install them. Unfortunately, with
the current global supply crisis, unobtainium has become unobtainable.
We suggest wrapping your D10 in a plastic bag before placing it in the packaging
or in your holder so you can catch bits that fall off. White glue is the recommended

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adhesive for reattaching the bits, although you are welcome to use CA but only if
you are very careful or very brave. Remember to apply the CA to the part and not
to the model (don’t ask us how we know this).
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING YOUR LOCOMOTIVE
We try and make sure that every locomotive is perfectly up to spec before it leaves
the factory, but if it was a Monday night and our factory workers were arguing over
last night’s mahjong game rather than assembling models, there may be a couple of
bugs. Doing a quick pre-service check will solve most operational glitches.
• Check to see that all wheelsets are correctly in gauge using an NMRA RP-2
Standards Gauge. Should any of the leading or tender truck wheelsets be
out of gauge, just remove the affected wheelset from the truck. The wheelset
can be regauged by grabbing each wheel and twisting. DO NOT TWIST A
DRIVER WHEELSET!!! If your drivers are out of gauge, please contact us for a
replacement.
• Check that all piping and appliances are firmly installed and clear of the
track. Bend up any low coupler trip pins so they don’t interfere with your
switches and crossings. We recommend using Kadee part #237 (Trip Pin
Pliers) or Micro-Mark part #80600 (Trip Pin Bending Plier).
• Make sure that the tender and lead trucks swivel freely and without binding. If
they catch on anything, check to ensure that the ends of the trucks don’t bind
against any underbody components. If they do, see that everything is firmly
installed. If the engine is sitting at a 45-degree vertical angle, the leading
truck is probably sideways so turn the truck around. Don’t try to do wheelies
with your $600 steam engine model.
MISSING OR DAMAGED PARTS
If you open your D10 box and discover that something has obviously been bumped
in transit and is damaged, please contact us. We know that some of you don’t like
the idea of human beings touching your models, but if it is a matter of gluing an air
pump back on you can do it yourself in less than a minute with a drop of white glue.
You can’t ruin the paint finish with white glue. If you really want to send your model
back to us for us to install that, we would be happy to. But if you do send it back to
us for us to put that one part back on and other stuff falls off when we send it back
to you, then tough tooties. We’re not fixing it again. Just ask your granddaughter to
install the part for you; it will take her at least three minutes.
We try to make our models courier- and mail-proof, but there really is no way to
protect a model from damage when it is used in a game of football at the UPS

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or FedEx distribution center. Model trains generally don’t survive well after being
“spiked” because Mikey strip sacked the QB near the warehouse loading dock.
If you see some parts are missing and they are not floating around the packaging, let
us know and we will send you replacements. More information about our warranty
can be found towards the end of this manual.
ADDITIONAL FEATURES
Of course, like any steam engine, the D10s appearance changed over the years
with several variations in design based on updated technology and style. Let’s have
a look at what some of the interesting D10 features are:
TENDER
From 1941 to 1956 a number of D10g/h engines were converted from using
coal to Bunker C oil for service primarily in British Columbia.
HEADLIGHT
When delivered, D10s had a half-moon headlight mounted on the top of
the smoke box and a number plate in the center of the smokebox. Later
many were fitted with a cylindrical Pyle-National headlight centered on the
smokebox door.
FRONT NUMBERBOARDS
A flat numberboard atop the front of the smokebox was the original mounting
location after the headlight was moved to the center of the smokebox, but this
was later changed to an angled numberboard that was easier for towermen
to read as the engine sped past.
POWER REVERSER
Some D10s were upgraded with a power reverse mechanism, a device that
made switching movements easier for the engineer. It was along the right-side
running board.
BELL LOCATION
When delivered the bell was mounted behind the stack but later many had the
bell relocated to between the two domes.

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REMOVING THE SHELL
If you need to open your D10 to install a crew or a decoder, you will need to follow
these steps:
• We recommend that you only attempt opening up your locomotive in a
zero-gravity environment. That way, if a part does break off, it will just be
suspended there, right where you broke it, ready for you to reinstall it. If you
don’t have a zero-gravity chamber, then we suggest not installing shag carpet
in your workspace. Yes, it looks great and yes it feels great on bare feet, but
Rapido employees have experience in understanding that whatever detail bits
fall into shag carpet are gone forever. No questions, it’s not coming back.
• To that end, please make every effort to ensure nothing flies away. We
normally suggest you work in a room with everything white – walls, floor,
ceiling, workbench, tools, clothes – everything. But doing so would be very
boring (albeit practical) so that’s likely not the case, is it?
• To remove the boiler, first remove the smaller pair of screws (a) on the bottom
of the cab that are centered under the windows; these are partially covered by
flexible pipes you should be able to move out of the way with the screwdriver.
(NOTE: Do not remove the larger pair of screws under the front of the cab as
they hold the chassis together.)
Those of you familiar with other
model steam locomotives may
rush ahead, assuming that the
pilot truck screw will need to be
removed. You’d be wrong. HAH!
We bet you wished you read this
first, eh? Read on...
• Near the bottom of the external front wall
of the cab, remove each small lever (b)
that connects the front cab wall to the
walkway.
• The bottom pin of each vertical grabiron
(c) at the rear of the cab side needs to be
disengaged from the chassis and moved
slightly to the rear (you can leave the rest
of the grabiron connected to the cab).
• The boiler blow down valve (d) on the fireman's (left) side of the firebox
between the #2 and #3 drivers needs to be removed.
(a)
(b) (c)
(a)
(d)

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• Under the smokebox at the front of the
engine are two angled wire rods (e)
connected to each other by a platform
under the headlight. These rods need to
be disengaged from the pilot deck and
lifted clear from the holes at the front of
the chassis.
• Lastly, lift up slightly on the rear of the
cab to raise the cab/boiler assembly
clear of the cab seats, and then move the
boiler slightly forward to clear the latch
on the underside of the smokebox. Once
unhooked at the front, the entire boiler
can be lifted straight up and clear of the
chassis.
If you are working in a zero-gravity
environment, the chassis will slowly drift away from the boiler. On the other
hand, if you are not in a zero-gravity environment, remember that gravity
sucks. If you hold your loco boiler upright, the chassis will now plummet to the
nearest solid object. Hopefully that is not a concrete floor. You may want to
do this carefully over some foam sheet (painted white!) on top of your white
workbench.
• If you wish to change out the decoder, then just follow the previous steps
about removing the boiler. It will expose all the wonders that lie within.
• If you wish to install a crew inside your D10, removing the boiler isn't
necessary as the back of the cab is wide open. Just use some tweezers and
put an engineer (on the right) and fireman (on the left) into their seats. We
recommend using a removable adhesive like Hob-E-Tac®because if the figures
stick out of the side windows, it will prevent the removing of the cab/boiler
from the chassis. We suppose you could chop their arms and heads off, but
then you'd have a zombie train crew.
• The open the tender up, simply remove the screws under each corner of the
tender chassis and the tender tank will lift clear.
At this point you should have the entire boiler off the frame and the tender in two
pieces, as long as you followed our simple instructions. We don’t know how to put
them back together, so from here you’re on your own. Just read the instructions
backwards and you should be ok. If you find a cryptic message while reading the
instructions backwards, it’s not our fault.
(e)

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Any requests for replacement models because you broke a part off will be met with
laughter, followed by sadness, then laughter again, and then a very polite suggestion
that you should model a locomotive rebuilder and use your recently broken loco as
scenery. We did warn you after all. If we can assist, then all joking aside we’ll make
every effort to do so. But note that we don’t have an infinite supply of boilers, cabs,
and detail parts to replace broken or missing parts. Pro tip: if you're going to break
something, do it sooner rather than later while we still have the parts.
OPERATION – DC (SILENT)
If your D10 locomotive is not equipped with a sound decoder, it should function like
most other HO scale locomotives. Put it on the track. Give it some juice. Watch it
go. In DC, the track inspection lights, firebox glow, and numberboard(s) are always
on, and the headlights are directional along with the white class lights; they are lit
while running forwards and turn off in reverse. All other lights are wired, but they
will not work in DC.
If you are new to the hobby (or just like to occasionally “play trains”) and you have
a DC-powered train set, please contact us before operating your D10 as it may not
be safe (for your engine and/or your wallet) for you to use your controller.
Some train set throttles put out a very high maximum voltage that is not suitable for
scale model trains. The maximum recommended voltage is 16 volts DC. Similarly,
controllers designed for large scale trains put out a much higher voltage than your
D10 can handle. Please see the highlighted warning not too much further in this
manual.
If you use a train set throttle or a throttle designed for large scale trains, your
locomotive’s circuitry may end up looking like a TV dinner forgotten in the microwave
after you accidentally punched in an extra digit into the timer. In such situations,
we’ll try our best to fix it for you, but it may be beyond salvaging. Please note we
may have to charge you for the replacement parts and/or the labor involved in
restoring it to its former self. That’s because you didn’t read this bit of the manual.
For those of you who are reading this, hi! How’s it going? Didja know that hockey
season starts soon?
INSTALLING A DCC DECODER
The D10 contains a motherboard specially designed for our decoders. This is
connected to the track, motor and lighting outputs. A blind plug is attached to
the motherboard using a 21-pin connector. To install a decoder, remove the blind
plug and install a 21-pin decoder. Your chosen decoder should have eight function
outputs.