3
SECTION
No TITLE ASSEMBLY SYNOPSIS: IMPORTANT INFORMATION / CONSIDERATIONS
PARTS LIST Most components should have a ‘D’ code punched into their metal surface. Identify and separate all like for like components prior to assembly.
The ‘parts list’ also separates parts into the various sections 1 - 13 shown below. Parts can also be identified by their profile pictures and stated
lengths etc..
B BASE Base dimensions and recommendations. Ensure that your base is level as this will make assembly of the building, especially the glazing of the
roof much more straight forward. Please be aware that the hinge door on your greenhouse opens inwards, make sure that there will be no
interference between the door and the foundations.
P PREPARATION Tools required. IMPORTANT: Use WD40 or similar in the glazing bar channels and insert the black glazing rubber prior to frame assembly.
1 REAR Take the glazing bars ‘D066’ with the rubber inserted and the diagonal braces ‘D103’, use 10mm bolts to join them to the gutter and 15mm
bolts to the cills (note how the head of the bolt slides into each glazing bar during construction). Please also remember to slide in your 22mm
bolts for attaching the decorative eave spandrels ‘DV100’ in section 6.
PORCH GABLE
Again ensuring that the gable framework is rubbered-up follow the diagrams to assemble each gable in the building. Make sure that you have
inserted the extra bolts utilised in sections 4 and 5. On the roof and side corner bars not every rubber channel will require rubber unless it is to
be utilised in a partition (see separate manual and section P).
END GABLES
4 PORCH SIDES The porch sides (the L-shaped area to the left and right of the porch gable between cills and gutters level) can either be built in situ piece by
piece or built away from the structure as an L-shape and then attached in a similar manner to plain gable/s to rear. Please ensure that where
relevant you slide 2 x 22mm bolts into the side bars for the attachment of the eaves spandrels.
5 MAIN FRAME
ASSEMBLY Take the rear (1) and the end gables (3) and join them together on your base. It is a good idea to tie some ladders to the sides to support them
if you do not have anyone to hold them for you. Once the porch sides (4) have been attached to the main building then the porch gable (2) can
be inserted between them in the same way you would attach a end gable to the rear. You will now have a T-shaped framework. It is important
that you check that the internal diagonal measurements within the building are equal to ensure that the building is square, spending a little time
on this now will speed up roof assembly and glazing. On buildings longer than 12’ the end gable (1) should attach to the extension sides (see
separate manual) first before the rear maintaining 620mm spacings, e.g. a 16’ building = end (3), 4’ handed extension sides, 8’ rear (1), 4’
handed extension sides, end (3).
6a REAR ROOF Attach the main ridge between the end gables and then the rubbered-up roof bars ‘DV255’ ensuring that they are fully butted up to the ridge
and down onto the gutter. Attach your cresting before you glaze the building to give yourself more room to work. Utilise the 22mm bolts slid into
the rear (section 1) and roof bars to attach your DV100 and DV101 spandrels. On longer models you may need to carefully prop up the roof
and tie the sides together to keep the ridge and gutters straight (i.e. not sagging or bowed) until the building is fully glazed.
6b PORCH ROOF The porch ridge can be fitted to the porch gable supporting its free end with ladders or a wooden sprag. The porch hips ‘DV381’ can now be
attached between the welded porch gutter sections and the free end of the porch ridge. A ‘lower’ height porch utilises a DV380 bracket to allow
the porch ridge to connect to the main module. Identify all of the handed roof bars and look for their locations. Insert the rubber into their chan-
nels and when attaching ensure again that were relevant you slide in 22mm bolts for eave (x2) and roof spandrels (x2). Eave and Roof spran-
drels can now be attached using the previously inserted 22mm bolts. The ladders / sprag supporting the porch ridge free end can now be re-
moved.
Prior to glazing the cresting and finials should be siliconed into place. Attaching them once the glass has been installed by leaning through vent
apertures is more time consuming.
7a VENT Once the vent is glazed add silicone to the vent sides and top. Stand the vent/s on their hinge (vent top) and then leave the silicone to set.
7b VENT SLAM The slam bar ‘D079’ can be moved up and down between the roof glazing bars so that it can be butted down onto the pane of glass beneath,
the autovent will be attached to it later on (10).
8 LOUVRE They attach to the building during the glazing process (9) like a piece of glass with a black separator above and below them. If you are fitting an
optional auto-louvre then you need to carefully drill (3mm bit) out the rivets which mount the handle to the frame. You can then either utilise
those holes or create more to mount the unit.
9 GLAZING Layout the bar cappings and covers around the building like a sundial checking that all is present and correct. You can also place the roof
cappings in the gutters so they are closer to hand. The glass in the sides has to bevel on the black separator strip which is on top of the 305mm
high glass base panels. This bevelling action allows the glass to tuck underneath the gutter canopy. Use the capping and the self tapping
screws to then hold the glass in place. The covers then enclose the screw heads giving a neat finish. It is a good idea to glaze two roof sections
first to ensure the building is square followed by two side sections to ensure the building isn't leaning. We would then recommend that you
glaze the porch roof and its adjoining angled roof panes whilst the building still has some movement in it.
The porch cowling ‘DV341’ should be attached before the vents are inserted so that access through vent apertures is available. Silicone the
cowling area internally, position cowl and VERY carefully (avoiding glass below) mark, drill and screw x 2 ‘FS6018’ into place. IMPORTANT:
Silicone the cowling externally and check with watering can than the cowl is water tight, note silicone can be moulded shortly after application if
you wet your fingers.
IMPORTANT: On the roof sections please make sure that you place a screw around 25mm / 1” from the bottom of each capping strip (create a
hole in the plastic if required) and that the screws are nice and tight to avoid any glass slippage.
10 VENT
ATTACHMENT Take the assembled vent and slide the vent hinge ‘D866’ into the end of the ridge allowing the vent to pivot open and closed. Vent stops go
either side of the vent to stop any lateral movement (so insert stop / vent / stop). Attach the Bayliss XL autovents.
11 DOOR
ATTACHMENT Your door comes pre-constructed and locked minus the handles and their pivot pin but now it needs to be mounted to the front end of your
building. Utilise the ‘DV522’ plates and twist in crop headed bolts to join the door and its frame to the building (pinch the door frame against
your long front verticals whilst tightening your ‘DV522’ plates to ensure that there is no gap). If you are struggling to eradicate the gap between
the door frame and verticals then some silicone can be carefully applied to the area to create a vertical seal. Be careful not to lock yourself in
the building and to avoid damage do not open the door until it is attached to the front gable. Getting the door to swing perfectly without dropping
or rubbing on the ground may require some small but vital adjustments. You may also need to insert a packer underneath the door frame hinge
to increase ground clearance. Part ‘DV275’ canopies the door frame top hiding the clearance space at the top of the door. The door can only be
made to swing inwards.
IMPORTANT: Please do NOT let the door slam open or closed as it is likely to cause damage to the door and the frame. Please twist the han-
dle to open and close. Please also be aware that your door KEYS (3 provided) are unique to the building so they should not be stored together.
12 ANCHORING
DOWN Now that the greenhouse is finished and the door and vent/s are operating without interference then you need to anchor the building down
using 2” rawl plugs and screws. Use a 7mm masonry bit in a hammer drill to create the holes.
13 FINISHING
TOUCHES Now that the main body of the structure is complete you can add; downpipe fittings, eave bungs, gutter stop ends. It is also important to care-
fully apply some silicone to the internal eaves corners and external and internal ridge corners to minimise the chance of water entering the
structure.
14 OPTIONAL
REAR
SHELVING
Robinsons integral cantilever staging and shelving attaches to the inside of the greenhouse frame using either square head bolts (insert four
into each side glazing bar ’D066’ during construction of the rear (1)) or rectangular ‘crop head’ bolts which can be fitted retrospectively (both
sets of bolts accompany the shelving/staging). This system allows the height of either the staging or the shelf to be set at an operator specific
height. Commonly the staging brackets are set 900mm from the cills though you can alter this to suit the end user/s. The aluminium shelf /
staging slats come in two lengths; (4’):1240mm ‘D2002’ and (6’):1860mm ’D2003’. These slats can combine to create any length of staging
required, i.e. 4’+6’ = 10’ etc...
15 OPTIONAL
REAR
STAGING
2 /
3
