ujk technology 506300 User manual

•Through Dovetail •Lapped/Half Blind Dovetail •Finger/ Box Joint
Dovetail Jig
Code 506300
Original Instructions
AT&M: 29/05/2019
BOOK REF : 508484

Index of Contents
2
Copyright
This product has been wholly manufactured
in TAIWAN incorporation with Axminster Tools & Machinery
Copyright 02
What’s Included 03
Introduction 04
Key Features 04
General Instructions for 230V Routers 04-05
Safety Instructions for use of Routers 05
Dovetail Jig Assembly 06-07
Illustration and Parts Description 08-09-10
Dovetail Jig Set-up 11
UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
(Chapter 0.1) Process for Through Dovetail 12-13-14-15-16-17
(Chapter 0.2) Process for Lapped/Half Blind Dovetail 17-18-19-20-21-22
(Chapter 0.3) Process for Finger/Box Joint 23-24-25
Exploded Diagram/Parts List 26-27
The symbols below advise that you follow the correct safety procedures when using this product.
Fully read manual
and safety instructions
before use
Eye protection
should be worn
Ear protection
should be worn
HAZARD
Dust mask
should be worn

What’s Included
3
Quantity Item Part Model Number
506300
1 No UJK Dovetail Jig with Eccentric Bar Handles A
2 No Comb Bar Support Brackets B
1 No Dust Extraction Mounting Plate C
1 No Lapped/Half blind Dovetail Guide D
1 No Through Dovetail and Finger Joint Guide E
1 No Dust Extraction Moulding F
1 No 63mm Adaptor G
2 No Guide Bushes H
1 No Butterfly Hex Key I
Bags Comprising:
4 No Countersunk Hex Screws J
2 No Extraction Moulding Stops K
1 No 1/4" Shank, 13.55mm Diameter Dovetail Cutter
1/4”Shank, 10.39mm Diameter Straight Pin Cutter
1/4" Shank, 12.5mm Diameter Box Joint Cutter L
A
B
C
D
E
F
H
I
K
J
G
L

Introduction
4
General Instructions for 230V Routers
• Half blind, through dovetails and finger joints
• 300 Capacity, 6-28mm thickness of material
• Heavy gauge steel pressings
• Stabiliser bar for more accurate machining
• Supplied with three 1/4" shank cutters
The UJK Technology Dovetail Jig can be used to cut half
blind dovetails for drawer construction, as well as precise
comb or finger joints which could be used, for example,
in utility furniture. It will also cut through dovetails, which
would be ideally suited for a project like a toolbox.
This tool is robustly made from heavy gauge, 3.5mm
steel pressing and is very simple to set up and use. Fitted
with cam action clamps, the workpieces are held quickly
and securely while the smooth anodised finish on the
6mm thick, machined finger template ensures that both
parts of the joint are cut accurately and cleanly.The jig
can be used with any router that will take 1/2” , 1/4" &
8mm shank cutters. It also has a pre-set router depth
adjustment knob as well as a unique stabiliser bar
located in front of the comb, which provides a much
greater surface area on which to bear the router base. A
matched pair of Axcaliber cutters (7° dovetail/straight)
and an additional guide bush adaptor to suit the router
should also be purchased.
The UJK Dovetail Jig also incorporates a 62mm dust
extraction port to aid safe and efficient operation.
Supplied with 2 x 6mm thick aluminium combs,
American style threaded guide bush as well as full
instructions. Material capacity: 300mm width, 6–28mm
thickness.
Key Features
• Finger joint 12.5mm width, maximum board
thickness 20mm
• Two American style threaded guide bushes (included)
• A compatable guide bush adaptor will need to be
purchased.
• 2 x 6mm thick aluminium guide templates
The following will enable you to observe good working
practices, keep yourself and fellow workers safe and
maintain your tools and equipment in good working
order.
WARNING!! KEEP TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
OUT OF REACH OF YOUNG CHILDREN
Mains Powered Tools
• Tools are supplied with an attached 13 Amp plug.
• Inspect the cable and plug to ensuree that neither are
damaged. Repair if necessary by a suitably qualified
person.
• Do not use when or where it is liable to get wet.
Workplace
• Do not use 230V a.c. powered tools anywhere
within a site area that is flooded.
• Keep machine clean.
• Leave machine unplugged until work is about to
commence.
• Always disconnect by pulling on the plug body
and not the cable.
•Carry out a final check e.g. check the cutting tool
is securely tightened in the machine and the correct
speed and function set.
•Ensure you are comfortable before you start work,
balanced, not reaching etc.
•Wear appropriate safety clothing, goggles, gloves,
masks etc.Wear ear defenders at all times.
•If you have long hair wear a hair net or helmet to
prevent it being caught up in the rotating parts of
the machine.
•Consideration should be given to the removal of
rings and wristwatches.
•Consideration should also be given to
non-slip footwear etc.
•If another person is to use the machine, ensure they
are suitably qualified to use it.
•Do not use the machine if you are tired or distracted
•Do not use this machine within the designated safety
areas of flammable liquid stores or in areas where there
may be volatile gases.
•Check cutters are correct type and size, are undamaged
and are kept clean and sharp, this will maintain their
operating performance and lessen the loading on the
machine.
• OBSERVE…. make sure you know what is happening
around you and USE YOUR COMMON SENSE.
KEEP WORK AREA AS UNCLUTTERED AS IS
PRACTICAL. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD
CHILDREN BE ALLOWED IN WORK AREAS.

Safety Instructions for use of Routers
5
1. Make sure you have read and fully understood the
General Instructions and safety precautions that apply
to your router.
2. Before connecting the machine to the supply; check
for obvious signs of damage, paying particular attention
to the plug and the power cable. Rectify or have rectified
any damage you discover. Fit and set the guide bush,
using the Guide Bush Check Centre, to check
concentricity, if you are doubtful of correct centering.
Check the cutter bit you are about to fit is the correct
tool for the job. Check the bit for damage, make sure it
is sharp and clean, check you have the correct collet for
the cutter shank size you are about to fit, ensure that a
sufficient length of the shank is inserted in the collet to
guarantee a secure fixing. (‘K’ line on cutter shank)
Conversely, ensure there is sufficient length of cutter to
carry out the cutting task. Make sure that the tools you
use to fit the cutter bit, or any accessories are the correct
ones, DO NOT risk damaging the router by using the
wrong size spanners, Hex keys, etc. Make sure the ‘chip
screens’(if available) are fitted securely. If dust
extraction is available, connect it.
3. Check that all accessories, tools etc., that have been
used to set the machine up, are removed and set
carefully aside or stowed away correctly.
4. Set the depth of cut, either as one plunge or
incrementally (Staight cutters only).
5. Ensure the machine is switched off. Never engage a
trigger hold-on unless you are actually holding the
machine. Plug the power cable into a correctly rated
switched socket outlet. If extension leads are being
used, check these for damage, do not use if damaged,
check that any extension cables in use are correctly
rated for use with your machine. Switch on the supply.
6. Make sure you are holding the machine in a safe
position, ensure that the cutter bit is not in contact
with anything, and the ‘plunge’is locked off. Give the
machine a quick“burst”, to ensure that everything is
working correctly, check especially for vibration, which
might indicate that the cutter is incorrectly fitted. If you
disconnect the machine; re-fit the cutter and test again.
7. If there is any vibration make sure that the jig is
clamped or fixed firmly to the workbench.
8. Make sure that the power cable is safely positioned
away from the operating area, and when operating
the router, the movement of this operation will not
drag it to within range of the router or cutter.

Dovetail Jig Asssembly
6
Fig 01-02
1. Locate the comb bar brackets (B), dovetail joint guides
(D-E) and four countersink Hex screws (J).
2. Line up the four countersink holes in one of the two
dovetail joint guides (D-E) with the pre-drilled holes in
the comb bar support brackets (B) and secure using the
four Phillips screws (J), see fig 01-02.
3. Loosen back the outer star knobs and inner brass
depth wheel to the front of the dovetail jig, giving
sufficient clearance, see fig 03-04. Line up the elongated
slots in the support brackets (B) with the threaded studs
to either side of the jig and lower the assembly down
until the dovetail guide is seated down on top of the jig.
Tighten the star clamps to lock the dovetail guide
assembly in position, see fig 05-06.
Fig 03-04
Fig 05-06
4. Locate the extraction moulding (F), adjustable stops
(K) and dust extraction mounting plate (C).
5. Line up one of the stops (K) with the mounting plates
‘T’ slot and slide on, see fig 7. Offer up the the ‘T’ bolts to
the underside of the extraction moulding (F) and slide
the assembly onto the mounting plate (C), see fig 8.
Fig 07-08
C
K
Inner brass
depth wheel
Outer clamping star knob
EB
J

Dovetail Jig Asssembly
7
6. Position the extraction moulding (F) on the mounting
plate (C), slide the remaining stop (K) on. Place each stop
to the ends of the mounting plate and tighten, this will
prevent the extraction moulding from sliding off
the plate, see fig 09-10.
7. Lower the extraction assembly down onto the comb
bar supports (B) and insert the rails to the under of the
mounting plate (C) into the machined slots in the comb
bar supports. Lock the stops (K) against the support
brackets (B), see fig 11-12.
Fig 09-10
Fig 11-12
8. Locate the dust extraction 63mm adaptor and insert
it into the extractor moulding (F) outlet, see fig 13. (If
required).
Fig 14-15
Fig 13
Finger joint guide
Half blind dovetail guide
Through dovetail guide
63mm adaptor
Machined slots Rails
F
C
F
K
‘T’ bolt
‘T’ bolt
Other Set-up Configurations
K
B

Illustration and Parts Description
8
Horizontal Clamp bar handle
Horizontal cam bar
Clamp bar
Dovetail mounting bracket
Pressure adjustment knob
Router cutter depth stop Vertical cam bar
Extraction outlet
Pressure
adjustment knob

Illustration and Parts Description
9
Vertical cam clamps (A) and clamp bar (B) Horizontal cam clamps (A) and clamp bar (B)
Router cutter depth adjuster (Pin Depth) Outer clamping star knob (A)
Inner brass depth wheel (B)
Guide bush Dovetail joint guide securing Hex screws
A
A
B
B
A
B

Illustration and Parts Description
10
Mounting bracket holes Vertical pressure adjustment knob Side stop cap screw (A)
Side stop (B)
Horizontal clamping bar assembly Clamping bar plate
Support plate for extraction outlet
Dovetail jig rear view
Dovetail joint guide
B
A

1/4" Shank,
13.55mm
Dovetail Cutter
Dovetail Jig Set-up
11
Mounting the Jig
Mount the jig onto a firm and stable workbench at a
comfortable height,remembering that the router sits on
top of the jig. The jig must be mounted close to the front
edge so as to leave clear passage for the timber to the
front, vertical clamp). Also, leave ample clearance to the
rear of the jig to accommodate the longest length of
timber you are likely to want to work within the dovetail
jig.
There are two mounting holes to either side of the jig
allowing permanent attachment to a workbench
or similar stable base.Where work space is limited, the
same holes can be mounted to a movable base that
can be secured in the jaws of a vice or to the top of a
workbench using ‘F’ or ‘G’ clamps, see fig A.The jig can
then be stored away when not in use.
Fig A
Preparation of Timber
As with all joinery work, the drawer or box components
must be sized and cut square and accurately. It is
preferable that the width of the timber increases in 1/2”
measurement (i.e.5”, 5 1/2”, 6”, 6 1/2”, etc.) as this will give a
series of fully-formed dovetails without part formed pins
or sockets at the ends.
It is a good idea to identify the drawer pieces, see fig B
so that they are positioned correctly in the jig.
Fig B
Router Cutter
Fig C
Fig D
Fig E
A selection of different makes of
router guide bush adaptors
1/4" Shank,
10.39mm
Straight Cutter
1/4" Shank,
12.5mm Box
Joint Cutter
Guide bush
‘G’ Clamps
Movable base
Supplied with three 1/4”shank cutters, (7˚dovtail/
straight), see fig C.You can also purchase 8mm or 1/2”
shank cutters.You will need to use one of the two guide
bushes, these are included in the boxed kit.To attach
to the router a guide bush adaptor to suit the make of
router will need to be purchased, see fig D-E.

UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
12
(Chapter 0.1)
Process for Through Dovetail
1. Select the through dovetail and finger joint comb, (E).
Bolt this onto the comb bar support brackets (B) using
the four countersunk hex screws (J) making sure that
engraved wording of ‘Tail /Box’ is facing the front of the
jig, see fig 01 (see parts list on page 3).
0.1 Fig 01
Dovetail joint guide
Marking guage
0.1 Fig 02
Hex screw
2. Whilst the comb bar assembly is removed from the jig,
on the left hand side of the jig, slacken the Hex screw
that hold the side stop location bracket. Slide the bracket
as far left as possible and gently re-tighten hex screw, see
fig 02.
0.1 Fig 03-04
3. To help set up the cutter depth it is worth using a
cutting gauge. Scribe a depth line across the end of the
boards, use the boards to set the cutting gauge up, take
one jointing corner, set the gauge to the thickness
of one board, see fig 03. Once the gauge is set, mark this
depth across the end of the other jointing board, see fig
04. It is also worth labelling the boards, the ‘Pin’ boards
being the front and back of a drawer and the ‘Tail’ boards
being the sides.
4. Locate the Comb bar assembly onto the jig, check the
legs of the comb bar support brackets are fitted between
the black star knob (A) and the brass depth adjustment
wheel (B), and that the correct template comb is facing
forward toward the front of the jig, see fig 05.
5. Position the board within the jig, the ‘Tail’ board
(drawer sides) being cut first.These need to be loaded
into the vertical position, with scribe line facing towards
the user, see fig 06.
Scribe line
0.1 Fig 05
A
B
0.1 Fig 06
Pin
Tail
Tail
Tail
Cut Tails First
Scribe line

UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
13
0.1 Fig 10
Continues Over....
6. Clamp these boards in place using the eccentric bar
clamps, the pressure of the eccentric bar clamps being
adjusted by turning the plastic knobs mounted at each
end of the eccentric bar clamps, see page 8.When
adjusting these ensure that the eccentric bar is
paralleled to the jointing face of the jig, the aim being
to hold the board firmly.The handles of the eccentric
bar clamps should be pushed down on the horizontal
clamp and away from the user in the vertical clamp.
7. With the boards loaded within the jig, check that the
comb bar assembly sits evenly across the ‘Pin’ board, the
tail board may need to be dropped down to allow this to
happen. Push the comb bar assembly down firmly, then
tighten the black star knobs on either side of the jig to
firmly fix the comb bar assembly in place, see fig 07.
0.1 Fig 07
Tail
8. Gently un-clamp the ‘Tail’ board that is held in the
vertical location, slide this up the under side of the comb
bar assembly.To get the joint central on the board, slide
the ‘Tail’ board left or right within the jig with the aim of
getting an equal amount of material on either side of the
first and last aluminum finger on the comb bar. Double
check that the top of the ‘Tail’ board is located evenly all
the way across the under side of the aluminum comb,
and re-fix this in place by pushing the eccentric cam bar
handle downwards, see fig 08.
0.1 Fig 08
Equal distance
0.1 Fig 09
9. Undo the hex cap screw that holds the side stop
in place, slide the side stop over to reposition this up
against the ‘Tail’ board, re-tighten the cap screw, see fig
09.
10. Due to the fact the cutter will clear all the way
through the ‘Tail’ board, it is worth moving the material
that is held in the horizontal position (‘Pin’ board) back
away from the jointing face of the‘Tail’ board.To do this
undo the horizontal eccentric cam bar and slide the
wood back away from the jig to create a gap of about
25mm -1. Lock back into position.
Once this is done, it is important that the aluminum
comb bar is set parallel to the‘Tail’ board, the two preset
lines that are machined into the surface of the comb give
a visual guide, the second of these two lines needs to
be set level with the back edge of the‘Tail’ board.This is
adjusted by loosening the black star knobs on either side
of the jig, then by moving the brass depth adjustment
wheels forward or backwards, this will move the comb
bar assembly forward or backwards allowing the lining
up with this guide line. Re-tighten the black star knobs
and check that the comb is still evenly supported across
the width on the ‘Pin’ board, see fig 10.
Set-up the Router
11. Check that router is unplugged. Load the dovetail
cutter into the router making sure that two thirds of the
cutter shank are held in the collet, the bar lines on the
Axcaliber cutters being a visual guide. Select the ¾"guide
bush, this needs to be assembled into the guide bush
adaptor (not supplied).

UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
14
Screw together the guide bush and fixing ring, fix this
to the base of the router, with the flange section facing
downwards out of the bottom of the router, this will run
on the template. It is important that the cutter is totally
central within the located guide bush, if unsure check
with a centralising cone (not supplied), see fig 11-12-13-
14.
0.1 Fig 11-12-13-14
Dovetail cutter
Fixing ring
Guide bush adaptor
Cutter shank
Collet
Visual mark
Flange facing down
Setting the Cutter Height
12. With the router still unplugged, carefully position the
router on the jig. Locate the guide bush within the fingers
of the comb, then adjust the cutter height so that the tip
of the cutter is level with the scribe line as marked with
the cutting gauge (see step 3).When this has been set,
lock off the height setting and carefully remove router
from the jig, see fig 15.
0.1 Fig 15
13. Set up the extraction mounting/support bar on the
jig and connect this to a vacuum extractor, see fig 16-17.
0.1 Fig 16-17
Extraction assembly
Extraction hose
14. Plug the router in to the power supply, carefully
position the router on to the jig. Remember that the
cutter is now set and protruding out of the base of the
Cutting the Tail Boards
3/4”guide bush

UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
15
0.1 Fig 18
router. Sit the router on the jig so that the cutter goes
between and will be supported by the template comb
and extraction bar. Start on the left hand side of the jig,
start the router and gently push forward through the
workpiece, the guide bush will follow the profile of the
template, see fig 18. Do not force or push the router too
hard as this will brake out the back edge of the timber
when the cutter breaks through.Work along the
template (left to right) cutting each part of the joint.
When the cutting is complete, switch off the router and
ensure that the cutter has stopped spinning before you
remove the router from the jig.
15. With the router removed check that the joint has all
been cut and that there are no bumps or uncut parts, see
fig 19-20.
0.1 Fig 19-20
WORK FROM LEFT TO RIGHT.
Setting the Cutter Height for ‘Pin’ Boards
16. Unplug the router. On the left hand side of the jig
is an adjustable depth stop wheel, this can be used for
setting up the cutter height for cutting the‘Pin’board.
To use this, place the ‘Tail’ board in the horizontal position
in the jig and lock in place with the eccentric bar clamp.
Adjust the height of the comb so that this sits evenly
across this board, then lock off comb bar by tightening
black star knobs. Place the router with the dovetail cutter
onto the comb so that the cutter and guide bush are
located in the side recess cutout,see fig 21. Adjust the
depth stop wheel so that this top face of the wheel meets
the cutting tip of the preset dovetail cutter, ( this being
set at same height as used to cut‘Tail boards). Lock this in
place with locking nut, see fig 22.
0.1 Fig 21-22
Side recess cutout
Guide bush
Nip up the locking nut
Depth stop wheel
17. Change the guide bush to the 5/8”diameter and
swap the cutter to the 10.39mm straight cutter, (follow
guide instructions as in (step 11). Reposition the router
on the side recess cutout location, set the tip of the
straight cutter down to the top of the preset depth stop
wheel, see fig 23.
Note: If all the tail boards are the same width these
can all be cut at this stage.
0.1 Fig 23
Guide bush
Straight cutter
Continues Over....

UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
16
Setting up jig for the ‘Pin’ boards
18. Remove the four countersunk hex screws and turn
the aluminum template around so the word ‘Pins’ faces
the front of the jig, re fix the hex screws, see fig 24.
19. With the ‘Tail’ board still in place in the horizontal
location and the comb bar seated level across this, place
the ‘Pin’ board with the front face of the board facing
the user, in the vertical position on the jig. Slide this up
so that it is level with the underside of the comb, then
slide the ‘Pin’ board to the left to meet the preset side
location stop, (as set in step 9). Fix this in place with
eccentric cam bar. Move the‘Tail’ board back away from
the meeting point of the joint, as again this cutter will
cut all the way through the timber, see fig 25.
0.1 Fig 24
Hex screws
0.1 Fig 25
20. Position the router on the jig and check that the tip
of the straight cutter meets the scribe line as cut with the
cutting gauge, see fig 26.
0.1 Fig 26
Scribe line
21. On the face of the template is one preset line that
runs across the comb, this needs to line up with the
back face of the position ‘Pin’ board, to adjust this to
line up slacken the black star knobs and adjust the
brass depth adjustment wheel forward or backwards
and then re tighten the star knobs to fix in place, check
that the comb is now seated evenly on the timber.This
is important as if not correctly lined up the joint will be
out of square, see fig 27-28-29.
0.1 Fig 27-28-29
Correct levelPreset line
Preset line Not level
22. Replace the extraction support, upon the jig, position
the router on the jig and connect to power supply. Start
the router and cut the joint making sure not to force the
router through the work, this will help reduce breakout
on the back edge, remember that harder materials will
need more time, again work from left to right, see fig 30.
Cutting the ‘Pin’ Boards

UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
17
0.1 Fig 30
23. Once the timber has been cut, inspect the surface
of this, as it is very easy to leave a little material that
should have been removed.The timber should follow
the contour of the guide comb, and so any bumps and
lumps are avoided.The finished cut face should be
parallel with the fingers of the jig, if not, re cut this now,
see fig 31-32-33.
0.1 Fig 31-32-33
Parallel with fingers
Not Parallel with fingers
24. Remove the now routed parts from the jig and test fit
these together, any adjustment on how tight the joint fits
together can now be made to the‘Pin’ board.
If the joint is too tight to go together, this can be adjusted
by moving the comb bar location towards the back of
the jig, this being done by moving the brass adjustment
wheel clockwise, see fig 34, how much will depend on
how tight the joint is and the type of wood being jointed
together.This needs to be done evenly on both side of
the jig to keep the comb parallel, reinsert the boards
follow guide as pre-listed, then re-cut the ‘Pin’board to
remove this small amount, retest the joint fit.When
happy with the joint fit cut the rest of the‘Pin’ boards.
0.1 Fig 34-35
If the joint fit is too loose, then cut this test joint section
off, realign the ‘Pin’board within the jig. Following guide
as above, slacken the black star knobs, see fig 35 and
turn the brass depth stop wheels anti-clockwise which
will move the comb bar location towards the user and
so tightening the joint. Re-tighten the black star knobs,
check and follow guide to re-cut the ‘Pin’ boards, when
done recheck the fit of this joint.To get the outer edges
of the boards to align correctly adjust the depth of the
cut. 0.1 Fig 36
Finished Through Dovetail Joint

UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
18
(Chapter 0.2)
Process for Lapped/Half Blind Dovetail
1. Select the aluminum comb which has a cut out on one
side only and fix onto jig frame, with the cut out facing
the front, see fig 37.
0.2 Fig 37
WARNING!! CHECK THAT THE ROUTER IS
DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAINS SUPPLY
BEFORE CONTINUING.
0.2 Fig 38-39-40-41
2. Select 3/4” guide bush and dovetail cutter, load the
dovetail cutter into router and fix the guide bush to the
adaption plate and fix to router base with flange step
facing down, see fig 38-39-40-41. Ensure that power is
disconnected.
Guide bush adaptor
Cutter shank
Collet
Visual mark
Flange facing down
Dovetail cutter
3/4”guide bush
Fixing ring
3. This joint requires that both boards are cut at the same
time, be careful with the loading and setting up of the
boards. Its important to ensure that the internal face of
the carcase will always face outwards, and so it is worth
labelling this with a mark to indicate the internal face.
Load the horizontal board first, this will normally be
the drawer front as the joint configuration provides
maximum strength to the drawer, see fig 42.
0.2 Fig 42
Horizontal board

UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
19
4. Having loaded the horizontal board, clamp this in
place check that the comb bar is sat level upon the
workpiece. Make sure that this is in contact across the
width of the board, if not, release the black locking star
knob or brass adjustment wheels on either side of the jig,
push down on the comb bar evenly, this will ensure that
the comb bar is set level across the workpiece and then
re-tighten the brass adjustment wheel or star locking
knobs, see fig 43.
0.2 Fig 43
Comb bar
Workpiece
5. Load the vertical board, this will in most cases be the
side material of the drawer. It is important that the two
boards meet squarely on the front edge, there should be
no gaps at this meeting point, if so release the boards
0.2 Fig 44
and reline.The preparation of the wood can also reflect
on this, if the wood has been cut out of square then the
meeting point of these two boards will be out creating
Vertical board
a gap between the meeting edges. Ensure these meet
squarely and are level on the jointing surface, test with a
finger tip and adjust boards as needed, it is important to
get the joint point of these two boards level, see fig 44.
6. Having lined up the boards it is important to
centralise the boards and the comb, this is done by
undoing the Hex screw that fixes the black side stop
bracket, see fig 45.
0.2 Fig 45
Hex clamping screw
Stop bracket
7. It is then possible to move the bracket left or right,
the aim is to have an equal amount of wood showing
on the outside edge of the first and last comb point of
the aluminum comb.When this has been equalized
re-tighten the cap screw that fixes and locks the side
stop bracket in place, see fig 46.
8. The meeting point of these two boards should line
up parallel along the front face, (the comb has been
removed to show this set up) but there should be an
offset on the side of the boards due to the shape of
the side stop bracket, it is important that the work is
positioned correctly with this side stop as this provides
the correct position for cutting the joint, see fig 47-48.
The location of the boards shown in fig 49 are incorrect
and need moving as shown in fig 48.
(Note: the comb bar has been removed for clarity)
0.2 Fig 46
Outside edges
0.2 Fig 47-48
Continues Over....

UJK Dovetail Jig Processes
20
The location of the boards shown in
the above picture is correct
0.2 Fig 49
The location of the boards shown in the
above picture is incorrect
9. Adjust the position of the comb, so that the pre
machined scribe line that runs the width of the comb
is parallel with the two joining points of the loaded
work, this is done by loosening the black locking knobs
that secures the comb in place, by moving the brass
adjustment wheel forward or back will move the comb
scribe line forward or back, when correct re-lock the
comb bar in place by tightening the comb bracket
locking knobs, see fig 50.
0.2 Fig 50
cutter. This will need to be set up and tested on wood
first.With this being a single pass operation the cutter
depth is set to one height and cannot be changed, even
if the material thickness changes, the cutter depth is still
set the same, mark a scribe line of 11mm on the end of
the vertical board, as in fig 46 and 47 on page 19, with
the router unplugged from the mains, position the router
on the comb plate and adjust the cutter height down to
this pre set depth line.This test piece needs to be of the
the same type of material to be used in the project as
the joint fit will also need to be adjusted due to material
density, see fig 51.
0.2 Fig 51
11mm
11. Replace the extraction support bar and connect the
hose to vacuum extractor.
12. Check that all the clamps and work holding brackets
are tight.
13. Connect router to the mains and position carefully
on the comb and extraction support bar, ensure that
PPE is in place and worn when cutting with the router,
see fig 52.
14. To reduce the risk of shattering the right hand corner
of the vertical board, it is important to create a break line.
This is done by back cutting with the router, the aim of
this cut is to engage the bottom tip of the cutter, this will
create a cut line and so stop this shattering of the right
hand corner of the vertical board.To do this position the
router, start on the right hand side of the work, make sure
that the cutter is not in contact with the workpiece when
starting the router as this will tear these fibres. Start
the router and move gently so that the tip of the cutter
makes contact with the corner of the board, and move
the router along the workpiece from right to left, the
Setting the Cutter Depth
10. Set the cutter depth, Ensure that materials used
for the joint are thicker than the cutting depth of the
standard cutter, 1/2" thick material is recommended.
The following is a guide for using the standard
Cutting the Boards