VORON TAP User manual

VORON
VERSION 2022-11-28
VORON TAP
We build space shuttles with gardening tools
so anyone can have a space shuttle of their own.

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INTRODUCTION
Before you begin this journey, a word of caution.
In the comfort of your own home, you are about to assemble a robot. This machine
can maim, burn, and electrocute you if you are not careful. This machine can start a
re.
Please do not become the rst VORON fatality. There is no special Reddit air for that.
Please read the entire manual before you start assembly. As you begin wrenching,
please check our Discord channels for any tips and questions that may halt your progress.
Most of all, good luck!

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Printing Guidelines
Welcome to Tap
Optical Sensor Options
Printed Parts Diagram
BOM
Hardware and Tools
Assembly
Toolhead Install
Release the Magnets!
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PRINT SETTINGS
PART PRINTING GUIDELINES
The Voron Team has provided the following print guidelines for you to follow in order to have the best chance
at
success with your parts. There are often questions about substituting materials or changing printing
standards, but we recommend you follow these:
3D PRINTING PROCESS
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM)
MATERIAL
ABS or ABS+
LAYER HEIGHT
Recommended: 0.2mm
EXTRUSION WIDTH
Recommended: Forced 0.4mm
INFILL TYPE
Grid, Gyroid, Honeycomb, Triangle or Cubic
INFILL PERCENTAGE
Recommended: 40%
WALL COUNT
Recommended: 4
SOLID TOP/BOTTOM LAYERS
Recommended: 5

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HOW TO GET HELP
If you need assistance with your build, we’re here to help. Head on over to our Discord group, Forum, or to Reddit and post
your questions. We have a great community that can help you if you get stuck.
https://discord.gg/voron
https://forum.vorondesign.com/
PRIMARY COLOR
Example Tap_Front_r1.stl
These les will have nothing at
the start of the lename.
PART VERSIONING
Example Tap_Front_r1.stl
Part names will have a revision
number at the end (e.g., “r1”)
Always see the Github
repository for the latest parts.
ACCENT COLOR
Example [a]Tap_Center_r1.stl
We have added “[a]” to the front
of any STL le that is intended to
be printed with accent color. The
parts are marked with a heart in
the manual.
FILE NAMING
The STL les for our parts are available in our Github repository. The parts use this naming convention:
BEFORE WE BEGIN
https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign

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THIS IS JUST A REFERENCE
This manual is designed to be a simple reference manual. For additional information, we recommend
downloading the CAD le from our Github repository. It can sometimes be easier to follow along when
you have the whole assembly in front of you.
https://github.com/vorondesign
https://docs.vorondesign.com
DOCS
REPORTING ISSUES
Should you nd an issue in the documentation or have a suggestion for an improvement, please
consider opening an issue on GitHub (https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/issues). When raising
an issue, please include the relevant page numbers and a short description. Annotated screenshots are
also very welcome and helpful. We periodically update the manual based on the feedback we get.

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…AND DONE.
This is all you need to see, really.
But, just in case though, read
through this document carefully.
AN ASSEMBLY MANUAL?
We need to write an assembly manual?

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INTRODUCTION: WELCOME TO TAP
WHAT IS TAP?
Tap is a nozzle-based z-probe for the V2 and Trident printer designs. The entire toolhead moves to trigger an optical switch.
Tap offers many advantages over other z-probes; Here are a few examples:
EXTREME PRECISION
A well constructed Tap, when in service on a well-constructed printer, will be able to measure your Z position reliably with a precision of 0.4 µm
(0.0004 mm). This precision will help you better use and maintain your printer.
ANY BUILD SURFACE, CHANGE AT WILL
Tap can measure any securely mounted build surface. Print on Glass, Garolite, Alumina, Moon dust…it no longer matters. Textured plates are ideal for
Tap, but adhesive PEI sheets may also be used. Tap is unaffected by beds with magnetic uctuations (note: magnets may affect the build surface Tap
is sensing, such as pulling the plate tighter over the magnet). Once Tap is setup, you should not need to recalibrate after changing nozzles or build
plates.
VORON DURABILITY, HIGH TEMPERATURE OPERATIONS
Tap uses light to detect movement and will never wear out. The sensor in Tap is rated to operate at 70C to 100C and will not degrade over time the
way a contact switch or inductive probe can. Even if you brought your chamber temperature to 100C, it will accurately and reliably record your printer
melting (assuming you printed in ABS). We tested dozens of printers and thousands of print hours. Hundreds of PIF quality kits were printed using
Tap. Some test printers had over 1,000,000 probe cycles to test durability.
NO COMPLICATED MACROS
For consistent probing temperatures, Tap uses a single ‘activate_gcode’ macro in the [probe] cong. Tap is always ready to probe and requires no
docking or undocking moves.
Z ENDSTOP ELIMINATION
There is no need for a separate Z endstop. Once the offset is congured, it will hold without appreciable drift. It is normal to need slightly different
offsets when switching between lament types.
CRASH PROTECTION
With Tap installed, the nozzle and bed are protected from minor crashes (such as accidentally setting your Z to 1 mm below the build surface, or
running into a curled up print). In extreme crashes, Tap can break away completely, saving you from a hidden break elsewhere in your printer.

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SPECIAL WARNING ON Y POSITION:
Tap is ~3 mm thicker than the stock 2.4R2 and Trident X carriages. This places the toolhead closer to your doors. Make
sure you have clearance, and you may need to adjust your bed position on V2 or Y travel on Trident.
TAP
HARDWARE REQUIREMENTS:
2.4R2 MGN12
YOU MUST USE THE MGN12H X-AXIS
You must already be using the MGN12 based X-Axis.Tap does not t on the older MGN9 based X-axis.
CW2 STYLE MOUNTED EXTRUDER REQUIRED
Tap replaces the X-carriage mount, and requires that the mounting screws come in from the front of the carriage
like CW2, not the back like CW1. There are mounts for LGX and Galileo available.
BED MOUNT MUST BE SECURE
When Tap is probing, the nozzle will contact the bed with a force of approximately 500-800 grams. Your bed
should not move during this. Bed motion compromises the accuracy of Tap, so it is not recommended for Voron
1.8, Legacy, or Switchwire designs.
If you want to know if Tap is right for you, tap your nger on the bed rmly. If the bed moves, Tap is not right for
you.
GOOD MECHANICAL CONDITION
Tap is far more precise than previous Z sensing systems, and we have found it can reveal previously unnoticed
problems in a printer. If your printer has known mechanical issues (such as cracked components) x them before
attempting Tap.
IMPORTANT WARNINGS!
71.6 mm 68.7 mm

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SERIOUSLY…HOW DOES THIS THING WORK?
TOOLHEAD ON A RAIL
With Tap, the entire toolhead (including Extruder) can move in the Z direction on a short MGN9 rail with a MGN9H carriage. In normal printing
operation, the toolhead is held in place by a pair of magnets, acting on a pair of screws. During probing the toolhead lifts up slightly, activating a
photointerrupter switch concealed in the mechanism.
OPTICAL SENSOR
See the BOM for the sensor part numbers.
These are all tested and are known to work.
If you ignore this advice and buy a random
sensor off Amazon, it may not work.
CENTER (RED)
Houses magnets, retains belts, and is connected
to the MGN12H X-axis. Up top, there’s a plastic
tab that triggers the optical sensor.
FRONT (BLACK)
Connects to the toolhead and extruder,
rides on a MGN9 Rail, and houses the
sensor.

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SIDE VIEW
NORMAL OPERATING POSITION TRIGGERED
Magnetic and gravitational forces keep the toolhead from shifting during printing. If the
nozzle contacts something solid (like the bed), the black section of Tap and toolhead move
up, and the optical sensor will trigger. There are stops built in to prevent it from moving too
far, unless you really want the front to fall off.
TAP REPLACES THE X CARRIAGE
Tap is a drop in replacement for the X Carriage.
The toolhead and extruder mount to Tap, which
is mounted to the MGN12 X axis.

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SENSOR OPTIONS
CHOOSE TO USE EITHER THE WIRED OPTICAL SENSOR OR THE PCB-BASED SENSOR
WIRED OPTICAL SENSOR:
Tap was designed to use one of the following sensors from Optek:
OPB991P51Z
OPB991T51Z
OPB991L51Z
OPB991T11Z (or OPB991L11Z)
Pre-release versions of Tap used OPB990 sensors. We switched to 991 because some MCU’s were shown to be sensitive to having +5v on a signal pin.
These sensors are pre-wired, but you will have to add a 220 Ohm resistor to the wiring as a current limiter. The exact resistance is not critical, it can be +/- 10% of 220 Ohms, and should be rated for ¼
watt or higher. Soldering this resistor is no harder than adding the diode for the old inductive sensors…but soldering isn't for everyone. See next page for details on soldering this together.
PCB-BASED SENSOR:
Recognizing that soldering is difcult for some builders, Voron engineers designed a PCB-based sensor. This mounts an Optek OPB666N or OPB971N sensor. This PCB has the advantage of having
an indicator light on the board. The les for making this may be found on the Voron Github. https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/tree/main/OptoTap
WHICH ONE IS BETTER?
They are both capable of 0.4 µm accuracy (assuming the rest of the printer is in good condition). If you can, get the PCB-based sensor. Having an indicator light is a big plus, and the OPB666N sensor is
good to 100° Celsius operating temperature. The OPB991 and OPB971 sensors are rated to 70° Celsius which should be ne for most Voron printers. The sensor is away from signicant sources of heat.
IF YOU PURCHASE A PREBUILT PCB-BASED SENSOR
Make sure it’s based on either an Optek 971N51 or OPB666N sensor, and its designed to work with Tap. Don’t buy a generic sensor and expect it to work, this is not the place to save a couple of
bucks.
DO NOT CONNECT SENSOR TO 24V
These circuits were designed for 5 volts, 24 volts is more than 5 volts.
Connecting to 24 volts may appear to work at rst, but the sensor will
burn out.

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HOW TO CONNECT THE WIRED OPTICAL SENSOR
1. Solder the red wire to one side of resistor.
2. Solder the white wire to the other side of resistor.
3. Solder the black and green wires together.
4. Cover all solder joints and the resistor with shrink tube.
5. Connect the red wire to +5 volts, blue wire to the signal pin of your MCU,
and the black wire to ground (0 volts).
ASSEMBLE SENSOR (WIRED SENSOR OPTION ONLY)
Red/white: To MCU +5v
Black/Green: To MCU 0V
220 Ohm ¼ watt resistor (+/-

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PRINT THESE FOUR PARTS
PCB-BASED SENSOR:
Use Tap_Upper_PCB_r1.stl if
you have the PCB-based sensor.
WIRED SENSOR:
Use Tap_Upper_Wired_r1.stl if
you have the wired sensor.
Notice the wiring channel in blue.
+
CHOOSE A SENSOR
OR
RIGHT MAGNET HOLDER
Tap_Magnet_Right_r1.stl.
Notice one dot (blue) on the
right.
FRONT
Tap_Front_r1.stl
CENTER
[a]Tap_Center_r1.stl
LEFT MAGNET HOLDER
Tap_Magnet_Left_r1.stl. Note
the left has 2 dots marked in
blue below

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BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM)
Qty Description Notes
1 50 mm MGN9 rail See cutting guide in this manual
1 MGN 9H Carriage Medium preload (Z1) is preferred, but regular preload will work. Carriage must be removable from rail.
2 6 mm x 3mm magnet 6 mm diameter, 3 mm tall cylinders. N52 strength preferred, N35 or higher strength required
11 Heat-set inserts These are standard Voron inserts, 4.7 mm diameter and 4mm tall
1 M3 Hex nut ISO 4032/DIN 934
6 M3 Washers ISO 7089 / DIN 125 7mm outer diameter, 0.5 mm thickness
2 M3 x 20 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 Socket head cap screw
2 M3 x 16 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 Socket head cap screw
1 M3 x 12 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 Socket head cap screw
3 M3 x 8 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 Socket head cap screw
1 M3 x 6 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 Socket head cap screw
2 M3 x 6 FHCS ISO 10642 / DIN 7991 Flat head cap screw. MUST BE ferrous/magnetic (Carbon steel, not stainless)
2 M3 x 10 BHCS ISO 7380-1 Button head cap screws
10 M3 x 6 BHCS ISO 7380-1
Wired Sensor option
1 220 Ohm resistor ¼ Watt, +/- 10% (or better) tolerance resistor. For example, CFR-25JB-52-220R
1 OPB Sensor Four known good part numbers: OPB 991 P51Z , OPB 991 L51Z, OPB 991 T51Z, OPB 991 T11Z
PCB-Based Sensor option
1 OptoTap PCB See Github repository https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/OptoTap
1 OPB Sensor Two known good part numbers: OPB 666 N, OPB 971 N51

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BUTTON HEAD CAP SCREW (BHCS)
Metric fastener with a domed shape head
and hex drive.
ISO 7380-1
SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW (SHCS)
Metric fastener with a cylindrical head
and hex drive. The most common fastener
used on the Voron.
ISO 4762
HARDWARE REFERENCE
FLAT HEAD COUNTERSUNK SCREW
(FHCS)
Metric fastener with a cone shaped head and
a at top.
MUST BE MAGNETIC, NO STAINLESS!
ISO 10642
MAGNETS
How do they work?
These are round 6mm in diameter by
3 mm tall. Shorter ones are OK.
(down to 2.7 mm)
N52 are preferred, but N35 can work
Lower strength might cause ringing
at high acceleration.
WASHER
Usually stamped from sheet metal, this
type of spacer is not as consistent in
thickness as the shims are. Only used in
M3 size.
DIN 125
AW, NUTS!
Actually, its just the one nut.
We don’t like nut pockets either, but
sometimes its the right move.
Metric fastener. Only used in M3 size.
ISO 4032
HEAT-SET INSERT
These are made of brass , threaded on
the inside and and has ridges on the
outside. Heat them up to approx 250C
with a soldering iron and push them into
the plastic.
As the plastic cools, it solidies around
the knurls and ridges on the insert for
excellent resistance to both torque and
pull-out.

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TOOLS
SOLDERING IRON
We use this for setting heat-set inserts into
parts. Depending on your sensor choice,
you might be soldering some wires
together.
ANGLE GRINDER/DREMEL
If you can’t nd a pre-cut 50 mm MGN9
rail, you’ll need to cut down a longer one.
Leave your grandfather’s trusty hacksaw
in the toolbox: rails are usually hardened
steel.
VISE
A vise is handy if you have to cut your
MGN9 rail. A vise may also be helpful
when putting magnets in their holders.
WIRING CRIMPER
You’ll need this to wire up the sensor.
Or maybe theres a turnkey solution out
there you can buy, check Discord. If you
got this far without learning how to crimp,
we don’t judge.
SUPERGLUE
Yes, we consider this a tool. Superglue is
useful as a plastic safe threadlock, and
magnet glue. Cheap, single-use gel tubes
are ne.
PRINTED CUT GUIDE
If you have to cut your MGN9 yourself,
this can help you mark the places to cut.
Remove the tool before cutting, or you
will melt it to the rail.
MGN9 ASSEMBLY TOOL
We love this thing. Print it. You will need
it.
Marvel at its simplicity and wonder why
you never thought of it before.

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MGN9 ASSEMBLY TOOL
Fit the tool over the bearings on one side.
Squeeze the sides of the tool and rotate it
to t it over the other side’s bearings, then
release pressure.
The tool serves to hold the balls in place
when not installed on a rail, and will help
you reinstall the carriage later. Not bad
for a 7 minute print, right?
CAREFULLY REMOVE THE CARRIAGE
Do this over a bowl or other container, just
in case a ball drops out. If some do, don’t
panic! They can be pushed back in, just
add the balls back to the middle of the
carriage.

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MGN9 CUTTING GUIDE
ENDS CAN BE +/- 1 MM OFF FROM THIS
DRAWING
Just make sure you have 3 holes spaced
like so. One in the center, and the other
two ~ 5 mm from the ends.
DEBURR AND CLEAN AFTER CUTTING
Smooth over any sharp edges on the cut surfaces
with a le, and clean the rail carefully.
You don’t want slivers of metal getting into the
carriage or damaging the ball bearings.
USE THE GUIDE TO MARK WHERE TO CUT
If you have a longer rail you are cutting. Install this guide on the rail,
mark the ends where you will cut.
Don’t forget to remove the guide before cutting, it will melt.

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Bonus points if the support makes a face.
WE DON’T ALWAYS USE SUPPORTS, BUT WHEN WE DO:
…There is a good reason, the support is well designed, and it is easily removable.
Remove the indicated supports and discard them.
REMOVE SUPPORTS