Aqua Medic Ocean Runner 3500 User manual

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Operation manual
under counter filter system
Marin 1.000
4 –stage water filter system for marine aquaria from 400 to 1.000 l.
With the purchase of this filtration system you have selected a top quality product. It
has been specifically designed for aquaristic purposes and has been tested by
professionals.
With this unit - if used correctly - you are able to reduce organic substances and
other pollutants of your aquarium water to non-toxic levels.
The filtration system consists of a set of 3 biological trickel filters, a motor driven
protein skimmers with postfilter for activated carbon and an anaerobic denitrifying
filter.
The filtration system Marin 1000 convinces by its compact and functional design and
its clear arrangement.

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1. Description of the system
The water is flowing from the aquarium via an overflow chamber or another
overflow device into the biological trickle filter modules. Here the water is
treated biologically. The trickle filter modules are filled with Bactoballs. Their
special shape creates a lardge surface for settling of bacteria. Below the trickle
filter modules a layer of filter sponge is placed.. The task of this layer is mainly
to reduce the noise of dripling water falling from the trickle filters into the clear
water chamber. Apart of the inflowing water, adjusted by a valve, is directed to
the protein skimmer. From the clear water chamber the water is driven to the
circulation pump. This pump is set up dry, besides the filter. The pump is not
included. We recommend to use the Ocean Runner 3500 with
a capacity of 3500 l/h. A small bypass of the water ( 1 – 3 l/h) is delivered to the
Nitratreductor.
2. Components of the filter system
The undercounter filter system is placed in a separate glass tank with two
sliding doors.
dimensions: 56 x 36,5 x 58 cm. On the long side, you have to add minimum 15
cm for piping. The filter consists of the following components:
- Glass tank, dimensions 56 x 36,5 x 58 cm to take the filter modules
- 3 trickle filter modules, filled with Bactoballs
- 1 Nitratreductor
- 1 protein skimmer with venturi pump
set up:
view from
top
1. Inlet 5. Water inlet with drip counter (Nitratreductor)
2. Trickle filter modules 6. protein skimmer
3. Nitratreductor 7. post filter /activated carbon
4. Circulation pump 8. water outlet

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2.1 Trickle filter modules
The water flowing down from the aquarium is divided equally to the 3 trickle
filter modules and the protein skimmer. The upper part of the modules contains
the trickle plate. The plate is covered with a lid to avoid splashing. On the trickle
plate, the water is filled up for some mm and trickles then down through the
slits, evenly distributed over the whole plate. This set up contains no moving
parts and is maintenance free and safe for failures. The water trickled down
through a 20 cm high column of Bactoballs. A bacteria layer, the so called
biofilm is formed on the surface of the Bactoballs The bacteria remove waste
substances from the water, especially Ammonia and Nitrite. These nitogen
compounds are oxidised to Nitrate. The trickel filter modules are mounted
above a layer of filter sponge. Here, the noise is minimised and particles, as
dead bacteria falling from the Bactoballs are removed from the water.
set up of the trickle filter modules (side view):
1. Filtertank
2. Water outlet from the
aquarium
3. inlet pipes
4. lid
5. trickle plate
6. Bactoballs
7. support
8. filter sponge
9. grid
10. clear water chamber
2.2. Protein skimmer
The protein skimmer is supplied with water from a bypass of the water inlet. The
bypass can be regulated with the adjustion valve. It should always be adjusted
in a way, that dry foam is produced and pushed into the foam cup.
The complete foam cup can be removed for cleaning. It is also possible to turn
the bayonet and to remove the whole lid of the skimmer. This is necessary to
clean the interior of the reaction pipe.

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Description
The Turboflotor 1.000 consists of the following parts:
the original skimmer (foam cup and top cover, reaction-pipe, air injection nozzle),
the post-switched trickling filter module inclusive entrance chamber, a trickling
chamber
(lying underneath) with trickle plate which is filled with Bactoballs
and
a venturi pump inclusive Needle wheel.
Fig. 1: Turboflotor 1000
Protein skimming is a way of physical water treatment. It uses a phenomenon known
from our daily experience: the adsorption of surface active substances to air water
layers. If we give a drop of oil on a water surface, it will form a thin film with a
thickness of only one molecule. Surface active compounds like proteins behave in
the same way. The Turboflotor 1000 with its air bubbles creates a huge water
surface, where the waste substances can attach to.
These air bubbles are pushed into the reacton pipe, in a way, that they have a long
retention time in the counter current. Enriched with organic substances, they rise to
the top and form a strong foam, that is dehydrated and pushed into the collection
cup. With this method, organic waste can be removed from the aquarium water -
before they are integrated into the biological waste treatment cycle.
1. lid
2. foam cup
3. Reaktion pipe
4. outlet
5. trickle plate
6. Bactoballs
7. water outlet
8. venturi pump
9. air injection nozzle

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Working principle
The venturi pump of the Turboflotor 1000 sucks the water out of the filter chamber,
mixes it in the pump housing with air which is sucked and cut into small bubbles by
the Needle wheel. This water/air mixture is pumped into the
reaction pipe of the protein skimmer where the organic substances are taken up by
the bubbles. So a foam is formed which is pushed into the foam cup. The cleaned
water flows out of the bottom of the skimmer and is leaded via two transparent pipes
at the skimmer outside into the entrance chamber of the post-switched trickling filter.
From here, the water flows via the trickle plate and the Bactoballs back into the filter
chamber. The Bactoballs act as biological filter. On the surface of the Bactoballs
settle bacteria which reduce non-skimmed organic substances as well as ammonium
and nitrite.
Set-up
The Turboflotor 1000 has to be connected at the suction side of the pump, at the air
injection nozzle via a plastic pipe (25 mm diameter). The outflow happens freely into
the filter chamber.
The Turboflotor 1000 must be placed in a filter chamber below the aquarium. It is
not suitable for a dry set-up near the aquarium or near a filter chamber. The water
level in the filter chamber has to be 10-15 cm for a trouble-free operation. When it is
used within the filtration systems Reef 500 or Reef 1000, the optimum water level is
guaranteed.
Starting
The Turboflotor is placed into the filtration tank. If the venturi pump shall suck the
water from a separate chamber - like in the filter system Reef 1000, the plumbing of
the suction side has to be performed. If the water level is in the right range (10-15
cm), the Turboflotor can be started by plugging the venturi pump in. The pump is
now pressing water into the reaction pipe of the skimmer. At the same time, an
underpressure is created at the suction side of the pump and air is sucked in. As long
as the water level in the filtration tank is in the right range, the relation between air
and water is adjusted correctly. If noises arise at the air suction pipe, put a silencer
on it.
The air is cut into smallest bubbles due to the action of the needle wheels. In
addition, this constuction eliminates a great portion of the noise.
The quantity of sucked air should be adjusted so, that 75 % of the reaction pipe are
filled with air bubbles. After the first start, it takes some hours before the first foam is
pushed into the collection cup. This is due to a reaction between the surface of the
acrylic glass and the aquarium water. An equilibrium of electrical loadings must take
place. After 24 hours latest, the foam should be pushed evenly into the collection
cup. The quantity of liquid and organic substances depends on the pollution of the
aquarium.

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Maintenance
The collection cup should be cleaned regularly (daily or weekly, depending on the
organic load). The reaction pipe of the skimmers needs to be cleaned only once or
twice a year. Also the venturi pump should be cleaned in those intervals. For doing
this, the pump has to be removed and the complete pump housing and the Needle
wheel flushed with clean water. The same should be done with the air injection
nozzle. The biological filter - the trickle unit inclusive Bactoballs - is maintenance-
free.
Failures
Failures may arise if the relation between sucked air and water is not in the right
range. The reasons could be:
- The water level in the filtration tank or the chamber, where the pump gets its water
from,
is too low or too high. It should be maintained between 10 and 15 cm.
- The air injection nozzle is clogged or the pump housing with the needle wheel is
polluted. In
this case remove, clean and insert them again.
Especially in case of calcareous aquarium water, the nozzles get often clogged. If it
cannot
removed mechanically, the whole nozzle should be put into vinagre or citrus acid
for a night.
- The connection between the suction side of the pump and the air injection nozzle is
loose.
Then the pump sucks the water aside the air injection nozzle. Check if the pump is
correctly fixed on the bottom plate and screw it, if necessary.
2.3 Nitratreductor
Product description
The Nitratereductor consists of the reaction vessel (Height = 50
cm,

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Volume app 10 l).
The reaction vessel is filled with Bactoballs. In the top of the filter,
the circulation pump (recirculation pump with a capacity off 300 l/h ) is placed.
One little box with Denimar tablets to feed the bacteria.
Nitratereductor
1. inflow with drip counter
2. opening for redox electrode
3. opening for feeding
4. Bactoballs
5. pump suction
6 circulation pump
7. outflow
Fig. :Nitratreductor
Theory
Nitrate is coming into the aquarium via 2 different paths:
- with the tap water, with every water change or with the replacement of the
evaporated water
- by biological reactions in the aquarium.
These biological reactions are responsible for the farmost biggest part of the increase
of the nitrate level.
How is nitrate produced in the aquarium?
When the animals are fed with dried, living or frozen food, proteinaceous substances
get into the aquarium. These are the basics of the diet for the animals. A big part of

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the nitrogen, from the food is however excreted into the water. This nitrogen is
metabolised by bacteria, living in the aerobic filter via the toxic intermediate
substances ammonium and nitrite to the less toxic nitrate. These biolochemical
reactions take place in the presence of oxygen:
The bacteria Nitrosomonas oxidises Ammonia to Nitrite, the bakterium Nitrobacter
the Nitrite to Nitrate.
Ammonium + Oxygen ----- > Nitrite + Oxygen ----> Nitrate
(Nitrosomonas) (Nitrobacter)
In most aquaria, nitate is the end product of bacterial metabolism and accumulates in
the water.
Only higher water plants and algae are able to remove this nitrate from the aquarium
water.
What is the effect of nitrate in the aquarium?
1. Overfertilisation/Eutrophication. The aquarium is overfertilised, the algal growth
increases and cannot be controlled any more.
2. Toxic effects to the animals. Many invertebrate animals in sea water tanks are very
sensitive to higher nitrate levels.
Working principle of the Nitratereductor
In the Nitratereductor the water is treated anaerobically. In the
absence of oxigen, many bacteria are able to use nitrate as a substitute for oxigen for
their metabolism.
2NO3-------> N2+ 3 O2
2 Nitrate -> 3 nitrogen gas + 3 oxygen
The oxygen is used for the metabolism, the nitrogen is excreted into the water.
Nitrogen gas is a natural compound of the water and total harmless.
It is however necessary to increase the metabolism of the bacteria, so that they can
reduce enough nitrate. For this reason, the nitrate removing bacteria have to be fed
with organic substances. The tablet feed Denimar contains organic substances, that
can be used by the bacteria totally. The only waste product is CO2
The flow rate through the Nitratereductor is very slow. This is a main difference to
other aquarium filters, where the water is often treated once per hour or even more
often. The water in the Nitratereductor should have a retention time of 2 -4 hours. It
is however sufficient to treat it once per week. If the filter is adjusted correctly, the
water leaves the filter nearly free of nitrite and nitrate.

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Description of the Nitratreduktor
The Nitratereductor consists of a reaction vessel of 10 l volume.
To provide surface material for the bacteria, the filter is filled with
Bactoballs.They create an ideal microclimate for denitrification.
To avoid dead zones, the water is recirculated internally in the Nitratereductor. A
recirculation pump is placed in the top.
In denitrifying filters, esp in units, where the water has to pass through a long way, it
can occur, that there is no even flow in the filter. Zones with a very low redoxpotential
are created, where hydrogensulfide is produced.( the filter starts to smell bad) On the
other side, zones with a rather high flow may arise, where nitrate is reduced onla to
nitrite. In each case the conditions vary in the different zones of the filter and it is
nearly impossible to find ist right working point.
These unpleasant effects are avoided by the construction of the
Nitratereductor. The recirculation ensures a complete mixing and the same redox
potential in the whole filter. Zones with very low redox potential and production of
hydrogen sulfide are avoided.
The redox potential can be used for the control of the filter. The effectivity and the
reliability of the filter can be increased .
Connections:
The following connections are located in the top of the Nitratereductor:
1. Inflow: Here, you can connect a 6 mm air tube. At the inflow, you find a drip
counter and a set valve. Here you can adjust the flow rate. The ideal value is app
2 - 4 l/h
2. Feeding. Through this opening you can feed the Denimar tabs to enhance the
denitrification.
3. Redoxelektrode. Through this opening, you can put the redox probe (s. options)
4. Outflow. The water outlet is located at the side of the filter. Here, you can connect
a 6 mm air tube.
Set - Up:
The Nitratereductor is not a hermetically sealed system. The top is not tightly
fastened, so that the produced gas ( nitrogen and CO2)can escape.
The Nitratereductor has to be placed in a way, that the water can flow off freely -
either direcly back into the aquarium or into the filtration chamber. In a seawater
aquarium it is an advantage, if the effluent is flowing to the influent of the protein
skimmer or the trickling filter. Inthe protein skimmer, the water is saturated with
oxigen, before it comes back into the aquarium.
Inflow. The inflow into the reductor, can be realised as a bypass from the main
recirculation pump. The flow rate is adjusted with the valve and the drop counter.
Starting.

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Before starting, the Nitratereductor is filled with aquarium water and controlled for
leaking. The internal recirculation pump can be switched on.
Connection to an existing aquarium
If a Nitratereductor is connected to an existing aquarium, with a rather high nitrate
level, the inflow of aquarium water should not immediately be started. The bacterial
growth is enhanced by the addition of 4 tablets of Denimar. If, after 8 - 14 days, the
nitrite has dissapeared from the reductor - a residual concentration of nitrate is
harmless, the water flow can be switched on.
Connection to a new tank
If connected to a new aquarium, the bacteria don´t have to be fed in the first 4 weeks,
as the nitrte forming bacteria Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter need this time to
develope and to oxidise ammonia to nitrate.
Feeding The feeding has to be adjusted to the nitrate loading of the aquarium. It can
be controled with a redox probe ( see options) In a normal loaded tank, one
tablet/day is suffucient. It is also possible to feed several ( up to 5) tablets at a time.
In this case the filter does not need to be fed for some days.
After some time, a slimy bacterial biomass is formed in the Nitratereductor. This a
normal process. A high bacteria population ensures a high removal rate of nitrate.
Feeding with Deniballs.
Deniballs are made of a biodegradable plastic material. This
plastic material is also produced biologically - the raw material is produced by
bacteria. This new plastic material is completely biodegradable. It can be used by
denitrifying bacteria in the Nitratereductor to remove nitrate. The Deniballs suply
the surface area and the food for the bacteria at the same time. This means, that a
Nitratereductor filled with Deniballs has not to be fed for a longer period - up to one
year. The quantity of Deniballs, which are necessary for a Nitratereductor depends
on the loading of the tank. For a normal loading, 1.5 - 2 l are enough. The rest of the
filter is filled with the standard Bactoballs. The Deniballs need –especially in a
seawater tank - a longer period to reach their full capacity.
Maintenance.
1. Control of the flow rate
The flow rate through the filter has to be checked regually. The optimum is between
2 - 4 l/h.
2. Recirculation pump. The recirculation pump has to be controlled regually for
clogging. The pump housing has to be opened and the magnet with the needle wheel
are removed. Both is cleaned under fresh water and mounted again.
3.Cleaning If the bacterial biomass has increased after some years, the Bactoballs
can be removed, cleaned with aquarium water and filled in again.
4. Renewal of Deniballs. The Deniballs have to be refilled/replaced once per year.

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5. Feeding with Denimar: without Deniballs: 1 tablet/day.
6. From time to time: measurement of nitrite and nitrate concentrations in the oulet of
the Nitratereductor
Options
With a redox potential control, the function of the Nitratereductor can be optimised
and the reliability can be increased.
The optimal working point of the Nitratereductor can be determined by a
measurement of the redox potential.
Denitrifikation and redox potential
The redox potentialist ia a parameter, which can be measured electronically. The
value is a measurement for the equilibrium between reducing and oxidising reactions
in the water.
The redox potential in the aquarium itself is kept at plus 200 - 400 mV ( Millivolt) This
high redox potential indicates, that oxidation reactions dominate over reduction
reactions. Oxidation reactions are biochemical reactions, where a substance is
oxidised, e.g. by oxigen.
A negative redox potential indicates the absence of oxigen and is lethal for most
aquarium inhabitants.
The biochemical conditions in the Nitratreductor differ completely from the
aquarium:Nitrate has to be reduced to nitrogen gas. This is only possible if there is
no oxigen dissolved in the water. The redox potential is low or even negative. The
ideal range is between - 50 and - 250 mV.
If it exceeds - 50 mV, the denitrification reaction may stop at the nitrite stage!
If it falls under - 300 mV, all the nitrate is reduced. The bacteria start then to use
sulphate. This is a very undesired process because the end product of this reaction is
Hydrogensulfide. Hydrogensulfide (H2S) is toxic and smells very bad like fouling
eggs.
Therefore it is important, to keep the Nitratereductor always in the right redox level.
Control of the Nitratereductor:
The Nitratereductor can be controlled by the rate of feeding or the flow rate of
water:
If the redox potential exceeds - 50 mV, or even gets positive, the dosage of food can
be increased or the flow rate decreased.
If the redox potential sinks below - 300 mV, the feeding can be reduced or the flow
rate increased.
If you work with the Denimar tabs, you should keep the flow rate constant and vary
the food sulpply. If you work with Deniballs, you should vary the flow rate.

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Failures.
Problems with the denitrification are mostly caused by wrong adjustion of the flow
and the feeding rate. The causes can only be determined by measuring the nitrite
and nitrate concentrations in the filter or by redoxpotential
- Nitrite in the outlet of the filter:
If the efflurent of the filter contains high amounts of nitrite, the feeding rate is too low:
Increase the feeding or lower the flow rate. In this case, mostly the redox potential is
too high. ( over - 50 mV).
- Nitrate in the outlet of the filter. High residual concentrations of nitrate often occur
together with high nitrite values. Caution! Most nitrate tests are disturbed by high
nitrite concentrations!. In this case, the redocx potential is also too high. - increase
feeding reta, decrease flow rate.
- Hydrogensulfide in the outlet of the filter. The filter smells like fouling eggs. In
most cases, the redoxpotential is too low: Reduce the feeding, check the flow rate
and increase it if necessary.Ideal is a redox control with connected membrane
pump, see „Options“.
3. Mounting of the filter
The under counter filter system Marin 1.000 is delivered ready to us in a glass tank.
This tank has the dimensions 54 x 36,5 x 35 cm and can be placed in the cabinet of
an standard aquarium with an overflow chamber or an overflow box. As it is an open
filter system, the cabinet should be a water proof connection..
Water inlet from the aquarium. The piping from the aquarium should be installed
with PVC pipes of 40 mm diameter.
Suction pipe of the pump. The pump is best placed besides the filter tank. As
suction pipe to the pump, a 32 mm pipe should be used.
The pressure pipe, back to the aquarium is installed with a bypass to the
Nitratereductor. The part between pump and the bypass piT piece should be installed
with a flexible hose, to minimise any vibrations, that may be directed from the pump
to the pipes. From the bypass T piece to the water inlet into the aquarium a PVC pipe
may be used.

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Pump We recommend to us the Ocean Runner 3500 as circulation
pump ( 3500 l/h).
Water reservoir - Water level in the filter tank
All open filter systems have to be planned in a way that in case of a circulation pump
failure they can take up water flowing back from the aquarium without creating an
overflow. The volume of water is depending from the construction of the overflow
device, the pump capacity and the aquarium surface. The water volume can be
calculated by taking the aquarium surface (length x width) and the build-up above the
overflow level respect. the overflow comb. In most cases, the build-up is 2-3 cm.
During normal operation, the filter tank can be only filled to a height that this water
volume is taken up in case of emergency. The minimum water level is determined
through the height of the pump suction opening. It has to be made sure that the
pump does not suck any air. Otherwise fine air bubbles are blown into the water
which create a lot of slurp noises. If the pump runs dry, it may get damaged
irreversibly. The water which evaporates within the aquarium, is only missed in the
filter chamber - in the aquarium itself, the water level will be maintained. For this
reason, the water level has be controlled and replenished regularly. The refilling can
be made easier by using the aquaniveau in combination with a
storage tank in order to keep the water level constant. Nevertheless, it is suitable to
mark the minimum and maximum levels directly at the tank.
installation:
1. Overflow chamber with
comb
2. Hole in the aquarium bottom
3. Outlet pipe
4. Trickle filter modules
5. Circulation pump
6. Inlet pipe to the aquarium

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We recommend to use only pre-treated tap water (reverse osmosis) for the refilling.
Big aquaria - equilibration tank:
If with aquaria with a big surface or build-up the reserve volume of the filter tank is
not sufficient to take up the water during a pump failure, an equilibrium tank has to be
added. Almost, you can get an appropriate tank from your local aquarium
manufacturer. This tank has to be fixed at the filter tank with a pipe connection. The
circulation pump sucks the water from the equilibration tank and pumps it into the
aquarium.
4. Warranty
GmbH guarantee 24 months from the date of purchase on production
and material defects. Further claims and claims resulting from improper use are
excluded.
Warranty only by proof of purchase with the original invoice.
- Technical changes reserved –
GmbH, Bissendorf/Germany 09/2001