CustomWorks Aggressor SE 0802 User manual

760-B Crosspoint Drive760-B Crosspoint Drive
760-B Crosspoint Drive760-B Crosspoint Drive
760-B Crosspoint Drive
Denver, NC 28037Denver, NC 28037
Denver, NC 28037Denver, NC 28037
Denver, NC 28037
www.customworksrc.comwww.customworksrc.com
www.customworksrc.comwww.customworksrc.com
www.customworksrc.com
#0802 AGGRESSOR CHASSIS KIT#0802 AGGRESSOR CHASSIS KIT
#0802 AGGRESSOR CHASSIS KIT#0802 AGGRESSOR CHASSIS KIT
#0802 AGGRESSOR CHASSIS KIT
#0803 AGGRESSOR CONVERSION KIT#0803 AGGRESSOR CONVERSION KIT
#0803 AGGRESSOR CONVERSION KIT#0803 AGGRESSOR CONVERSION KIT
#0803 AGGRESSOR CONVERSION KIT
Manufactured By:Manufactured By:
Manufactured By:Manufactured By:
Manufactured By:
Designed &Tested by
Steve and Eric Salvas.

REQUIRED READINGREQUIRED READING
REQUIRED READINGREQUIRED READING
REQUIRED READING......
......
...UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!
UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!
UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!
Thank You and Congratulations on purchasing the AGGRESSOR SEAGGRESSOR SE
AGGRESSOR SEAGGRESSOR SE
AGGRESSOR SE! Within this kit you will find a
race winning car with over 21 years worth of CUSTOM WORKSCUSTOM WORKS
CUSTOM WORKSCUSTOM WORKS
CUSTOM WORKS design and quality. In order for you
to realize this race car’s winning potential it is important to follow the written text along with the
pictures included. The steps required to build this car are very easy, as long as you read before you
build.
In an effort to reduce costs to the racers and allow greater freedom for part choices, some of the
components usually included with pan car kits have been omitted so you may use any other
manufacturers “hop-up” version of these parts and save the cost for these items in the kit.
The 0803 AGGRESSOR CHASSIS KIT will require a front suspension, side shocks and body mounts to
complete a rolling chassis. The 0804 AGGRESSOR CONVERSION KIT will require all that of the 0803
but also including the aluminum parts and rear axle assembly. The 0803 Conversion is only to
convert original Aggressor kits! Not other manufacturers kit to CustomWorks.
The instructional format for building this car is to follow each step’s part “call-out” as to which part is
used in each of the steps. All hardware and parts (screws, washers, nuts, etc…) are referred to by
their CustomWorks replacement part number in the instructions. In the event you need a part, this is
the part number you will want to order. To help clarify which screw or nut the instruction is calling
for refer to the HARDWARE REFERENCE supplement within each step. The size of the screw or nut
should match the “shadow” of the same piece very closely.
Screw ID’s are: FHFH
FHFH
FH=Flat Head BHBH
BHBH
BH=Button Head SHSH
SHSH
SH=Socket Head SSSS
SSSS
SS=Set Screw
BUILDING TIPS:BUILDING TIPS:
BUILDING TIPS:BUILDING TIPS:
BUILDING TIPS:
-Using some type of thread locking fluid is suggested for all parts where metal screws thread into other
metal parts. We suggest using a lite setting strength thread lock for the reason you may want to take
the screw out one day. Remember it only takes a very small amount to secure the screw.
-Do NOTNOT
NOTNOT
NOT use power screwdrivers to drive screws into parts. The fast rotation speed can easily melt and
strip plastic parts or cross-thread into the aluminum parts.
-Lightly sand the edges of graphite pieces using a medium grade sandpaper to avoid splinters. Run a
thin bead of Super Glue around the edges to give pieces greater durability.
SUGGESTED TOOLSSUGGESTED TOOLS
SUGGESTED TOOLSSUGGESTED TOOLS
SUGGESTED TOOLS
400 Grit Sandpaper Wire Cutters Blue Loctite
Hobby Scissors X-Acto Knife 3/16" Wrench
Small Needle Nose Pliers Phillips Head Screw Driver

FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNTSFRONT SUSPENSION MOUNTS
FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNTSFRONT SUSPENSION MOUNTS
FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNTS
8140 Qty 1
AGR SE Chassis
1:1
5263 Qty 9
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
8152 1 EACH
Front Susp Bracket
LEFT AND RIGHT
5217 Qty 9
4-40 Lock Nut
8142 Qty1
AGR SE Bumper
5263
1250
5217
8152 R
8152 L
8142
8140
8152L SUGGESTED
MOUNTING LOCATION #1
(FULL NARROW)
8152R SUGGESTED
MOUNTING LOCATION #3
(2ND WIDEST)
USE CENTER LOCATION
TO BEGIN MOUNTING
FRONT BUMPER
4 3 2 1
WIDTH LOCATIONS
Step #1Step #1
Step #1Step #1
Step #1
REAR SUSPENSION MOUNTSREAR SUSPENSION MOUNTS
REAR SUSPENSION MOUNTSREAR SUSPENSION MOUNTS
REAR SUSPENSION MOUNTS
Step #2Step #2
Step #2Step #2
Step #2
8146 Qty 1
Side Shock Tower
8047 Qty 1
Pivot Ball Carrier
8048 Qty 1
Pivot Ball
8150 Qty 1
Pivot Ball Plate
8153 Qty 2
Body Mount
8144 Qty 1
Nerf Bar
5217 Qty 7
4-40 Lock Nut
8120 Qty 2
Ball Stud
1255 Qty 8
Spacer
1:1
5252 Qty 6
4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw
1:1
5262 Qty 4
4-40 x 1/4 FH Screw
5264 Qty4
4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw
1:1
5263 Qty 1
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
1:1
5201 Qty 4
2-56 x 1/4 BH
1:1
5252
8120
5217
5252
5262
5264 X4
1255
*(2) PER 5264 SCREW
TO MOUNT THE 8150
PIVOT PLATE.
5263
5217
8144
8122 FROM ORIGINAL
KIT.
5201 X4
8048
8047
8150
8153
5262
LONG WHEELBASE
SHORT WHEELBASE
*TRAILING OPTIONS*
AVAILABLE IN WIDTH
OPTIONS 1 OR 2 ONLY
TWO BODY MOUNT LOCATIONS:
- USE THE INNER MOST SLOTS FOR TRADITIONAL UPRIGHT STYLE MOUNTS.
- USE THE OUTER MOST SLOTS FOR SIDE MOUNTING POSTS, ADDTIONAL
SUPPORT, OR UPRIGHT MOUNTS FOR TRUCK BODIES.

REAR POD AND CONTROL LINKSREAR POD AND CONTROL LINKS
REAR POD AND CONTROL LINKSREAR POD AND CONTROL LINKS
REAR POD AND CONTROL LINKS
Step #3Step #3
Step #3Step #3
Step #3
8148 Qty 1
Top Plate
8149 Qty 1
Bottom Plate
1:1
5262 Qty 8
4-40 x 1/4 FH Screw
5213 Qty 4
Ball End
5213 Qty 4
Pivot Ball
5217 Qty 8
4-40 Lock Nut
5233 Qty 2
4-40 Coned Washer
7047 Qty 4
Shim “.015 THICK
5265 Qty 5
4-40 x 5/8 FH Screw
1:1
5225 Qty 1
2” TI Turnbuckle
1:1
5223 Qty 1
1.75” TI Turnbuckle
BATTERY MOUNTS / CENTER SHOCKBATTERY MOUNTS / CENTER SHOCK
BATTERY MOUNTS / CENTER SHOCKBATTERY MOUNTS / CENTER SHOCK
BATTERY MOUNTS / CENTER SHOCK
Step #4Step #4
Step #4Step #4
Step #4
1:1
5217 Qty 4
4-40 Lock Nut
2214 Qty 2
.250” Hex Spacer
7209 Qty 4
Spacer
5265 Qty 4
4-40 x 5/8 FH Screw
1:1
8154 Qty 2
Battery Strap Mounts
8153
7047 SHIM
.015” THICK
USE (2)
5265
8148
8149
8021 FROM
ORIGINAL KIT
5262
5262
5223
5213 -THE 2 CONTROL LINKS ARE DIFFERENT LENGTHS.
LONGER LINK ON RIGHT SIDE OF CHASSIS.
5225
5233
5217
5217
7047 SHIM
.015” THICK
USE (2)
8120 Qty 3
Ball Stud
8020 FROM
ORIGINAL KIT
5265
8120
5217
8154
2214
5217
USE (2) 7209 SPACERS PER SIDE
FOR THIS 8154.
TO USE BATTERY STRAP MOUNTS:
-CUT TAPE ROUGHLY A LITTLE MORE THAN TWICE THE BATTERY LENGTH.
-CENTER TAPE ON TOP OF BATTERY WITH ADHESIVE SIDE FACING UP.
-THREAD TAPE DOWN BETWEEN THE BATTERY AND 8154.
-PULL TAPE UNDER THE 8154, REMOVE ALL SLACK, AND ATTACH TO TAPE ON
TOP OF BATTERY. BOTH ADHESIVE SIDES WILL ATTACH TO ONE ANOTHER.
TO REMOVE BATTERY:
REMOVE THE 5217 NUTS ON THE FRONT STRAP MOUNT, PULL THE 8154 OFF OF
THE POSTS. THE TAPE ACTS ONLY AS A STRAP, NO NEED FOR CONSTANTLY
TAPING BATTERIES IN AND OUT!
SUGGESTED CENTER SHOCK:
CUSTOMWORKS #1419
MEDIUM BODY/MEDIUM SHAFT
CENTER SHOCK TOWER
FROM ORIGINAL KIT.
SUGGESTED LINK LENGTH, CENTER OF PIVOT BALL:
SHORT LINK: 2.455” LONG LINK: 3.007”
YOU MUST FINE TUNE THE
LINKS SO THAT THE REAR
POD MOVEMENT IS
PERFECTLY FREE!!!!

1432
1431
Bag JBag J
Bag JBag J
Bag J Shock AssemblyShock Assembly
Shock AssemblyShock Assembly
Shock Assembly
-Parts for
Step#1
1428 Qty 1
Firm Bladder (BLACK)
1425 Qty 1
Medium Shock Body
-Parts for
Step#2
1429 Qty1
Medium Shock Shaft
1250 Qty 2
O- Ring
5230
- Attach 1436 Shock Piston to
1426 Shaft using 5230 E-Clips
to secure.
STEP #1 STEP #2
TIP: To press clip in easiest, compress the
clip so the diameter is a little smaller.Insert
open end of clip first, working counter-
clockwise to the bent end as shown.
- Thread the Ball Cup onto the Med Shock until the
Ball Cup is flush with the end of threads on the shaft.
- Press 1427 Eyelet Cap into 1426 Threaded
Shock Cap so that guide in the Eyelet Cap lines
up in the recess in the Threaded Shock Cap.
- Press the 1428 Firm Bladder (BLACK) into the
Threaded Shock Cap so the dome of the
bladder points away from the Eyelet Cap.
- Thread 1432 Spring Collar onto the
Shock Body.
-NOTE: See shock filling tips for more
instructions.
SHOCK FILLING INSTRUCTIONS:
2) Slowly move the
shaft up and down
several times to allow
air bubbles to escape
to the top.
1) Holding the
shock upright,
fill with oil until
the top of the
body.
3) Refill with
oil to the top
of the shock
body.
5) Move the shock shaft in and out a
few times and then push it all the way
in. It should be easy to push the shaft
in until the eyelet hits the body.
4) Thread the Eyelet Cap
assembly onto the Shock
Body until it is hand
tight. Oil should seep
out of the bleed hole
in the Threaded Cap.
6) Then the shaft
should push itself
out to its full length
slowly.
7) If the shock does not push
out this far there is not enough
oil in it. Add just a little oil and
try steps 5-6 again.
8) If the shockrebounds too fast , or you cannot
push the shaft in until the eyelet hits the body, there
is too much oil. Loosen the cap about 2 full turns
and pump out a small amount of oil by pushing the
shaft in. Retighten the cap and try steps 5-6 again.
1434 Qty1
Shaft Guide
1435 Qty 2
Reatining Clip 1436 Qty1
Shaft Guide
S1:1
-Parts for
Step#3
1427 Qty4
Shaft Guide
1426 Qty1
Threaded Cap
1432 Qty1
Spring Collar
1442 Qty1
Spring
1431 Qty1
Spring Bucket
1430 Qty1
Mount Ball
1436 USE SMALL PISTON
1429 MED
1425 MED
1434
1435
1250
OIL
NOTE: Put a few
drops of oil on the
O-Rings!
OIL OIL
OIL
Shock BagShock Bag
Shock BagShock Bag
Shock Bag
- Press 1250 O-rings into 1425
Shock Body followed by 1434
Shaft Guide. Retain using 1435
Clip.
8130 Qty 2
Ball Cup
1255 X2
2214
1430
5217
8122
50 wt
suggested
starting point.
1437
8130
STEP #3
-CENTER SHOCK LENGTH SHOULD BE VERY CLOSE PER
INSTR. BUILDING THE CENTER SHOCK WITH NO DROOP
PAST THE POD FLAT WITH CHASSIS WILL MAKE FOR
EXTREME FORWARD DRIVE. USUALLY POD SHOULD HAVE
A SLIGHT BIT OF DROOP TO IT.
-DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
THE CENTER SHOCK TO
THE SHOCK TOWER. MAKE
SURE THE SHOCK HAS
PROPER FREE MOVEMENT
SIDE TO SIDE WITH THE
POD.
5230 Qty2
E-Clip

TUNING TIPS:TUNING TIPS:
TUNING TIPS:TUNING TIPS:
TUNING TIPS: These are some general guidelines for optimizing handling performance.
None of these “tips” are EVER set in stone. On any given day this manual or any chassis
engineering book or guru can be proved wrong by the stop watch. A good way to approach
chassis set-up is to try one change, practice it, think how the car felt different from before, and
compare lap times from the stop watch…..this will never fail.
CONGRATULATIONS!!!CONGRATULATIONS!!!
CONGRATULATIONS!!!CONGRATULATIONS!!!
CONGRATULATIONS!!! You have now completed the assembly process of your
new Custom Works AGGRESSOR SE. In the next section of this manual you will find some
basic setup hints and advice. It is important to remember that all tracks and racing surfaces
are different. Therefore the suggestions we give you are general in nature and should by no
means be treated as the only options.
- Bent Suspension Pin, check for free movement.
- Bound Ball Joint: Links should spin free on
balls while mounted to the car.
- Bent or Loose Links: Pod movement should
be free
- Wore out Bearings or Completely Seized
Bearings
- Chunked Tire: Check to see if foam or rubber
tire is still glued to wheel.
- Loose Screws: Especially chassis screws,
add Blue Loctite to prevent.
- Shocks: Either Bound-up or Out of Oil.
Must swivel freely on mounts.
- Foreign Objects: Unlucky Dirt/Stones
preventing Suspension or Steering Movement.
- Blown Differential
- Radio Problem: Bad Servo, Weak Servo Saver
Spring, Transmitter Pot blown.
- Install wing to rear of car
- Slide rear wing toward rear
- More wing angle, NOT FLAT!
- Add tweak/wedge to chassis
using side shocks
- Softer side shock springs
- Stifffer front springs
- Softer center shock spring
- Decrease center shock collar,
lower chassis ride height
- Harder front tire or just RF
- Softer rear tires
- Raise front ride height
- Lower rear ride height
- Move front suspension mounts
to the right
- Bring RR closer to pod, LR away
- More Castor, Less Camber
Car Is Loose (oversteers):Car Is Loose (oversteers):
Car Is Loose (oversteers):Car Is Loose (oversteers):
Car Is Loose (oversteers):
Car Pushes (understeers):Car Pushes (understeers):
Car Pushes (understeers):Car Pushes (understeers):
Car Pushes (understeers): Car Is Erratic:Car Is Erratic:
Car Is Erratic:Car Is Erratic:
Car Is Erratic:
MAINTENANCE:MAINTENANCE:
MAINTENANCE:MAINTENANCE:
MAINTENANCE:
- Occasionally dirt will get into the moving and pivoting locations in your car. It is best to
periodically clean you car to keep all the suspension components moving freely. Read the tips
below to keep your car running at its best!
- The rear link pivot system lacks the simplicity of the standard t-bar car especially in terms of
crashes. It is IMPORTANT that after a good wreck to pop the shocks off the rear pod to double
check the pod movement is still free in all directions. All to often this is over looked after a crash and
a day of frustration begins due to the pod movement binding.
- Since the entire suspension is held up by the center shock it will require a little more attention as
well. Conversely there are ALOT more tuning options you can now do with the car by simply
changing various dynamics of your center shock set-up.
- Differential Maintenance is needed when the action of the diff feels “notchy”. Usually cleaning the
diff parts, re-sand the thrust and diff plates with 400 paper, and lube appropriately will be all that is
needed to bring back to new. Ignoring your differential will lead to handling woes and increase
transmission temps, which will cause part failure.
SPECIAL THANKS to Steve and Eric Salvas.
- Slide rear wing forward
- Less wing angle
- Less tweak/wedge to chassis
using side shocks
- Stiffer side shock springs
- Softer front springs
- Stiffer center shock spring
- Increase center shock collar,
raise chassis ride height
- Softer front tires
- Stiffer rear tires
- Lower front ride height
- Raise rear ride height
- Move front suspension mounts
to the left
- Push RR away from pod, LR
closer to pod
- Less Castor or More Camber