CustomWorks Dominator User manual

REQUIRED READINGREQUIRED READING
REQUIRED READINGREQUIRED READING
REQUIRED READING......
......
...UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!
UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!
UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!
Thank You and Congratulations on purchasing the DOMINATORDOMINATOR
DOMINATORDOMINATOR
DOMINATOR! Within this kit you will find a race
winning car with over 25 years worth of CUSTOM WORKSCUSTOM WORKS
CUSTOM WORKSCUSTOM WORKS
CUSTOM WORKS design and quality. In order for you to realize
this race car’s winning potential it is important to follow the written text along with the pictures included.
The steps required to build this car are very easy, as long as you read before you build.
The instructional format for building this car is to open each bag in alphabetical order. Each bag of
parts will be broken down into “Steps” thru the manual. All parts and hardware needed to complete
all steps for each separate bag, will be found in each individual bag. There is no need to steal screws
from other bags. In the rare event you need to look in a different bag for a certain part, it will be
noted clearly in the instructions.
Considering the various dirt or clay surfaces that Dirt Oval cars are raced on today, the Dominator has
been designed to be competitive on a wide array of dirt surfaces using the CustomWorks “Street-Trac”
style tires that come with the kit. The instructions will build the kit using the most verastale set-up Custom
Works has found in testing on different types of tracks, however there are various other suspension
configurations available to you that you may find more suitable for your local track. For updates and more
proven set-ups login to CustomWorksRC.com.
All hardware (screws, washers, nuts, etc…) are referred to by size and type in the instructions. To help
clarify which screw or nut the instructions are calling for refer to the parts call-out accompanying each step.
The size of the screw or nut should match the “shadow” of the same piece very closely.
Screw ID’s are: FHFH
FHFH
FH=Flat Head BHBH
BHBH
BH=Button Head SHSH
SHSH
SH=Socket Head SSSS
SSSS
SS=Set Screw
BUILDING TIPS:BUILDING TIPS:
BUILDING TIPS:BUILDING TIPS:
BUILDING TIPS:
-Using some type of thread locking fluid is suggested for all parts where metal screws thread into other metal
parts. We suggest using a lite setting strength thread lock for the reason you may want to take the screw out
one day. Remember it only takes a very small amount to secure the screw.
-Composite plastic parts are designed to fit and may be tighter than desired when brand new. It should be
known that these parts will free up with racing the car fairly quickly. Also these parts have great strength and
durability, however the shock resistance is reduced greatly when operating in cold climates.
-Do NOTNOT
NOTNOT
NOT use power screwdrivers to drive screws into parts. The fast rotation speed can easily melt and strip
plastic parts or cross-thread into the aluminum parts.
-Lightly sand the edges of graphite pieces using a medium grade sandpaper to avoid splinters. Run a
thin bead of Super Glue around the edges to give pieces greater durability.
SUGGESTED TOOLSSUGGESTED TOOLS
SUGGESTED TOOLSSUGGESTED TOOLS
SUGGESTED TOOLS
400 Grit Sandpaper Wire Cutters Blue Loctite
Hobby Scissors X-Acto Knife 3/16" Wrench
Small Needle Nose Pliers Phillips Head Screw Driver CA Glue

Diff AssemblyDiff Assembly
Diff AssemblyDiff Assembly
Diff Assembly
1229 Qty 2
5/32 x 5/16 Bearing
1:1
4361 Qty 1
Diff Bolt Cover
-Parts for
Step#1
4362 Qty 1
Diff Spring
4358 Qty 2
Diff Ring
3613 Qty 1
Right Outdrive
-Parts for
Step#2
1:1
3609 Qty 1
Dominator Diff Bolt
1:1
4359 Qty 6
Thrust Balls
4360 Qty 2
Thrust Washer
3612 Qty 1
Left Outdrive
3615 Qty 1
Diff Pulley
4357 Qty 12
Diff Balls
4361 Qty 1
Diff T- Nut
Bag BBag B
Bag BBag B
Bag B
- Slide a 4360 Thrust Washer onto the 3609 Diff Bolt.
- Apply a thick layer of Diff Lube to the Thrust Washer, press
(6) 4359 Thrust Balls into the Diff Lube.
- Slide the other Thrust Washer on the Diff Bolt and insert it
into the 3613 Right Outdrive.
- Press (1) 1229 Bearing into the Outdrive.
- Put (1) 4358 Diff Ring on the Outdrive, apply Diff Lube as
shown.
- Put (1) 4358 Diff Ring onto the 3612 Left Outdrive, apply Diff
Grease as shown.
- Install the 4362 Diff Spring and 4361 T-nut into the Outdrive.
- Carefully slide the diff assembly together so the Diff Bolt passes
thru the entire assembly and threads into the T-nut.
- Screw the Diff Bolt into the T-nut until you feel the Diff Spring
fully compress. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!! Back the Diff Bolt off
EXACTLY 1/8 of a turn. Diff motion should be smooth and the
Outdrives will turn in opposite directions.
- Press (1) 1229 Bearing and the (12) 4357 Diff Balls into the
Diff Pulley. Use Diff Lube as shown.
STEP #1 STEP #2
4361
3609
4359
X6
4360
3613
1229
4358
3613
3615 4357
X12 1229
4358
3612
4362
4361
CUSTOM-TIP!!!CUSTOM-TIP!!!
CUSTOM-TIP!!!CUSTOM-TIP!!!
CUSTOM-TIP!!!
-Using 400 Grit Sandpaper in a“Figure 8”
pattern, it is best to sand the surfaces
of both the 4358 Diff Ring and 4360
Thrust Washers. The textured
surface results in a smoother and
longer lasting diff.
DIFF
LUBE
DIFF
LUBE
DIFF
LUBE
One-Way AssemblyOne-Way Assembly
One-Way AssemblyOne-Way Assembly
One-Way Assembly
3605 Qty 2
One-Way Outdrive
-Parts for
Bag A
3602 Qty 1
One-Way Pulley
3601 Qty 1
One-Way Hub
1:1
3602 Qty 1
Pulley Ring
Bag ABag A
Bag ABag A
Bag A
5292 Qty 4
M2.5 x 4 BH Screw
3605
3601
3602
PULLEY
3602
RING
5292
3605
- Mount 3602 One-Way Pulley to the 3601 One-
Way Hub using (4) 5292 Screws.
- Attach the 3602 Pulley Ring to the One-Way
Pulley using 4-6 small dots of CA Glue where the
faces of the two parts meet.
- Slide 3605 One-Way Outdrives into the bear-
ings pressed into the One-Way Hub.
3615 Qty 1
Pulley Ring
- Attach the 3615 Pulley Ring to the
One-Way Pulley using 4-6 small dots of CA Glue
where the faces of the two parts meet.
* CA GLUE ALONG THIS FACE
*Apply CA Glue along the face of
the pulley as shown. 4-6 small
dots of glue will work. DO NOT
allow glue to run into sprocket
teeth!

Reduction AssemblyReduction Assembly
Reduction AssemblyReduction Assembly
Reduction Assembly
3622 Qty 2
Reduction Pulley
-Parts for
Bag C
3621 Qty 1
Gear Hub
3620 Qty 1
Reduction Shaft
-Press (1) 3619 Roll Pin in the hole furthest from the e-clip
groove in the 3620 Reduction Shaft.
-Slide the 3621 Gear Hub onto the Reduction Shaft so it
seats over the Roll Pin, then press the next Roll Pin in the
Reduction Shaft behind the Gear Hub.
-Slide on (1) of he 3622 Reduction Pulleys, then press the
last Roll Pin in the Reduction Shaft.
-Slide the other 3622 Reduction Pulley and retain using the
5009 E-Clip.
-Attach the 4881 Spur Gear to the Gear Hub using the (2)
5252 Screws with 5212 Washers on them. Without the
washer, the screw will not tighten on the spur gear!
5009
5252
3619
Bag CBag C
Bag CBag C
Bag C
3620
4881
3622
3621
4881 Qty 1
81T 48P Spur Gear
1:1
5009 Qty 2
3mm E-Clip
3619 Qty 3
Roll Pin
ChassisChassis
ChassisChassis
Chassis
3650 Qty 1
Motor Plate
-Parts for
Bag D
3640 Qty 1
Dominator Chassis
-Mount the 3650 Motor Plate to the 3640 Chassis using (2)
5262 Screws.
-Press (1) 1232 Flanged Bearing into the 3650 Motor Plate
and install the Reduction Assembly into the bearing.
-Align the 3624 Rear Belt (SHORT) over the pulley gear
closest to the spur gear. Align the 3623 Front Belt (LONG)
over the outer most pulley.
-Press (1) 1232 Flanged Bearing into the 3651 Reduction
Plate. Align the bearing onto the Reduction Assembly.
-Mount the 3651 Reduction Plate to the Chassis using (2)
5262 Screws.
3640
3650
1232
Bag DBag D
Bag DBag D
Bag D
5262
3651 3624
3623
1232 Qty 2
4x8mm Flanged Bearing
1:1
5262 Qty 4
4-40 x 1/4 FH Screw
3651 Qty 1
Reduction Plate
3623 Qty 1
Front Belt
3624 Qty 1
Rear Belt
1232
3651
3624
Drive Carriers/Top DeckDrive Carriers/Top Deck
Drive Carriers/Top DeckDrive Carriers/Top Deck
Drive Carriers/Top Deck
3654 Qty 4
Drive Carrier
-Parts for
Bag E
3641 Qty 1
Dominator Top Plate
-Press a 1234 Bearing into each of
the (4) 3651 Bearing Cams.
Bag EBag E
Bag EBag E
Bag E
3655 Qty 4
Bearing Cam
1:1
5263 Qty 8
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
5252 Qty 8
4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw
1:1 1:1
8046 Qty 8
2-56 x 1/4 BH Screw
5282 Qty 2
4-40 x 3/8 HOLE HEAD
1:1
1234 Qty 4
15X10mm Bearing
Left Front
- Attach each bearing cam to a 3650 Drive Carrier using (2) 8046 Screws.
- Make (1) of each part shown below.
Right FrontLeft Rear Right Rear
3655
1234
- NOTE: The bearing cam has a “thick” and “thin” side, thick side ALWAYS facing Down!
“THICK SIDE”
“THIN SIDE”
5252 Qty 2
4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw
1:1
5212 Qty 2
Washer
5212

Main SuspensionMain Suspension
Main SuspensionMain Suspension
Main Suspension
-Parts for
Step#1
3660 Qty 2
Dominator Shock Tower
-Parts for
Step#2
5264 Qty 12
4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw
Bag FBag F
Bag FBag F
Bag F
3630 Qty 2
Front Susp Arm
4247 Qty 4
Front & Rear Inner Susp Pin
5292 Qty 8
M2.5 x 4 BH Screw
1:1
1:1
5253 Qty 8
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
3240 Qty 2
Rear Susp Arm
3631 Qty 4
Susp Mount (L&R)
1248 Qty 2 ea
.040”, 1.5 & 3 deg Shims
Bag EBag E
Bag EBag E
Bag E
RIGHT
FRONT
FRONT REAR
LEFT
FRONT
-ONE-WAY PULLEY
FROM BAG “A”
-PULLEY CLOSEST TO
RIGHT FRONT
-DIFF PULLEY FROM
BAG “B”
-PULLEY CLOSEST TO
LEFT REAR
RIGHT
REAR
LEFT
REAR
-Align the One-Way Pulley from Bag “A” into the Front Belt. The
shorter portion of the Pulley should be closest to the Right Front.
-Mount the 3654 Drive Carriers to the Chassis
as shown using (2) 5263 Screws per Carrier.
-Align the Diff Pulley from Bag “B” into the Rear Belt.
The shorter potion of the Pulley should be closest to
the Left Rear.
-Slide the appropriate Drive Carrier onto the pulley for
the corner of the Chassis they are located.
-Attach the 3641 Top Plate to
the Drive Carriers using (2)
5280 Hole Head Screws in
the locations noted.
-Finish mounting the Top
Plate using (8) 5252 Screws.
5280
SPECIAL SCREW
5280 SPECIAL SCREW
5252 5252
5252
cont...cont...
cont...cont...
cont...
-Attach the 3660 Shock Tower to the Drive Carriers using (4)
5253 Screws.
REAR
FRONT
STEP #1
NOTE: The “circle” on the shock
tower faces the rear of the chassis.

Rear CVD’sRear CVD’s
Rear CVD’sRear CVD’s
Rear CVD’s
-Parts for
Step#1
3241 Qty 2
Bearing Carrier
-Parts for
Step#2
1255 Qty 10
Spacer
1226 Qty 4
Ball Bearing
1:1
Bag HBag H
Bag HBag H
Bag H
4245 Qty 2
Rear Outer Susp Pin 1:1 5292 Qty 4
M2.5 x 4 BH Screw
1:1
- Press 1226 Ball Bearings into the 3241 Bearing Carrier.
- Attach the Bearing Carrier to the Susp Arm using 4245
Susp Pin with (2) 1255 Spacers on each side of the
Bearing Carrier.
- NOTE: The Suspension Pin will pass thru the LOWER
hole in the Bearing Carrier.
- Retain the Susp Pin using 5292 Screws.
4245
5292
1226
STEP #1
1255
3241
5292
1226
1255
-Parts for
Step#3
7203 Qty 2
Roll Pin
5217 Qty 2
4-40 Lock Nut
1:1
7047 Qty 4
Spacer
8122 Qty 4
Ball Stud
LinkagesLinkages
LinkagesLinkages
Linkages
Bag GBag G
Bag GBag G
Bag G
5248 Qty 7
2” Turnbuckle
- Parts for Bag G -
5235 Qty 14
Ball Cup
- Thread the 5235 Ball Cups onto the 5248 Turnbuckles. These links will be used over the next 3 steps. Shown are
approximateapproximate
approximateapproximate
approximate lengths to
start with to make building the car easier. You will adjust these when the car is finished to tune for best handling.
cont...cont...
cont...cont...
cont...
Bag FBag F
Bag FBag F
Bag F
cont...cont...
cont...cont...
cont...
REAR CAMBER LINK
PIN PASSES THRU
LOWEST HOLE IN THE
3241 BEARING CARRIER
- Attach the 3240 Susp Arm to the 3631 Toe Block using
the 4247 Susp Pin. Retain the pin with 5292 Screws.
- Attach the 3630 Susp Arm to the 3631 Toe Block using
the 4247 Susp Pin. Retain the pin with 5292 Screws.
- Mount the rear suspension mounts to the chassis using
(3) 5264 Screws. Use the 1.5 deg shim under the Toe Block
with the THICK part of the shim toward the front of the car.
- Mount the front suspension mounts to the chassis using
(3) 5264 Screws. Use the 3 deg shim under the Toe Block
with the THICK part of the shim toward the front of the car.
4247
3630
5264
4247
5292
5292
1248
3 deg
5292
5292
3240
5292
5264
3631
1248
1.5 deg
7211 Qty 2
CVD Coupling
1:1 1:1
7211 Qty 2
Rear CVD Pin
7211 Qty 2
CVD Set Screw
4382 Qty 2
Drive Blade
7216 Qty 2
Rear CVD Axle
7215 Qty 2
Short Dogbone
FRONT CAMBER LINK LEFT STEERING LINK
RIGHT STEERING LINK
1.07”
1.42” 1.28”
1.20”
NOTE: THICK SIDE OF
#1248 SHIM TOWARD
FRONT OF CAR
NOTE: THICK SIDE OF
#1248 SHIM TOWARD
FRONT OF CAR
STEP #2

- Fasten the 8122 Ball Stud to the Shock Tower in the upper and
outer most hole using (1) 5217 LockNut .
5248
8122
1255
8122
5235
Bag HBag H
Bag HBag H
Bag H
cont...cont...
cont...cont...
cont...
LOCTITE
GREASE
STEP #2
7211
(Pin)
7214
7216
7211
(Coupling)
7211
(Set Screw)
STEP #3
7047
7203
Front CVD’sFront CVD’s
Front CVD’sFront CVD’s
Front CVD’s
7211 Qty 2
CVD Coupling
-Parts for
Step#1
7232 Qty 2
Dom Front Axle
3632 Qty 2
Steering Arm
1:1
-Parts for
Step#2
1255 Qty 4
Spacer
1:1
7211 Qty 2
Rear CVD Pin
7211 Qty 2
CVD Set Screw
1226 Qty 4
Ball Bearing
1:1
Bag IBag I
Bag IBag I
Bag I
4244 Qty 2
Front Outer Susp Pin 1:1
7211
(Set Screw)
7232 7211
STEP #1
7233
7211
(Coupling)
-Parts for
Step#3
7203 Qty 2
Roll Pin
5217 Qty 2
4-40 Lock Nut
1:1
7047 Qty 2
Thick Spacer
8122 Qty 4
Ball Stud
3710 Qty 2
10 deg Castor L&R
3634 Qty 4
Steering Bushing
- Slide a 1255 Spcaer onto the Ball Stud and thread into the 3241
Bearing Carrier in the outer most hole.
- Insert the CVD assembly by sliding the axle thru the bearings.
- Attach the Camber Link from Bag “G” by snapping the Ball Cups
onto the Ball Studs.
- Slide (2) 7047 Shims onto the axle and retain using the 7203
Roll Pin. Pin should be evenly spaced in Axle.
LOCTITE
GREASE
- Apply grease to the areas shown.
- Apply thread-lock (Loctite) to the set screw.
- Align the holes as shown so that the 7211 CVD Pin can pass thru the
Bone, Axle, and Coupling. Pin should be evenly spaced in the DogBone.
-Tighten the Set Screw by angling the Bone
and Axle so the set-screw is able to be tightened.
- Snap the 4382 Blade over the pin on the Dogbone by gently stretching
one side back so one end of the pin can go in the blade as shown. Then
press or roll the blade on a flat surface so the other side can snap over
and onto the pin.
***PRO TIP***
In the center of the 7211 Pin grind a small flat spot using a small file or
the cut-off wheel with a Dremel. This will provide a key-way for the set-
screw to fasten against, practically insuring the pin will never come free
during a race.
- Apply grease to the areas shown.
- Apply thread-lock (Loctite) to the set screw.
- Align the holes as shown so that the 7211 CVD Pin can pass thru
the Bone, Axle, and Coupling. Pin should be evenly spaced in the
DogBone.
***PRO TIP***
In the center of the 7211 Pin grind a small flat spot using a small
file or the cut-off wheel with a Dremel. This will provide a key-
way for the set-screw to fasten against, practically insuring the
pin will never come free during a race.
-Tighten the Set Screw by angling the Bone
and Axle so the set-screw is able to be tightened.
- Snap the 4382 Blade over the pin on the Dogbone by gently
stretching one side back so one end of the pin can go in the blade
as shown. Then press or roll the blade on a flat surface so the
other side can snap over and onto the pin.
1:1
5253 Qty 2
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
7233 Qty 2
Dom Front Bone
4382 Qty 2
Drive Blade
5292 Qty 4
M2.5 x 4 BH Screw
1:1
4382
4382
*Make (2) Parts*
*Make (2) Parts*
1250 Qty 2
O- Ring

Bag IBag I
Bag IBag I
Bag I
cont...cont...
cont...cont...
cont...
- Press (1) 1226 Bearing into each side of the
3632 Steering Arm and insert the Front Axle
from Step 1.
- Insert (1) of each 3634 Steering Bushing into the
top and bottom of the 3710 Castor Block.
NOTE: Castor Blocks are RIGHT AND LEFT parts!
Blocks should lean toward rear of car!
-Carefully slide the dogbone thru the hole in the
Castor Block and align the Steering Arm between
the Steering Bushings. The fit of these parts are
tight and will ensure a good handling car.
-Fasten the assembly together using (1) 8122 Ball
Stud on the top and (1) 5253 on the bottom.
8122
3634
3634
5253
3710
3632
1226
1226
8122
5217
5292 4244 1255
7203
7047
THICK
1250
- Slide (1) Thick 7047 Shim onto the axle and secure it
using (1) 7203 Roll Pin. The Roll Pin should be evenly
spaced in Axle.
- Press (1) 1250 O-Ring inside the Outdrive.
- Attach the Steering Assembly to the Suspension
Arm by passing (1) 4244 Susp Pin thru the parts
using the 1255 Shims on both sides of the Castor
Block. Secure the pin using (1) 5292 Screw on each
side of the arm.
- Fasten the 8122 Ball Stud to the Shock Tower in the
upper and outer most hole using (1) 5217 LockNut .
- Attach the Camber Link from Bag “G” by snapping
the Ball Cups onto the Ball Studs.
STEP #2
STEP #3
Steering AssemblySteering Assembly
Steering AssemblySteering Assembly
Steering Assembly
-Parts for
Step#1
-Parts for
Step#2
Bag JBag J
Bag JBag J
Bag J
1:1
5253 Qty 4
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
5252 Qty 4
4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw
1:1
5212 Qty 4
Washer
5242 Qty 1
Large Servo Saver
8122 Qty 6
Ball Stud
5240 Qty2
Servo Mount
3209 Qty1
Antenna Mount
3647 Qty 1
Steering Pivot
3646 Qty 1
Steering Post
1233 Qty 2
Flanged Bearing
7207 Qty 1
Spacer
5252
7207
1233
1233
3646
3647
8122
8122
STEP #1
- Assemble the steering pivot as shown in
the diagram.
- Mount the steering assembly to
the chassis using (1) 5263 Screw
with Loctite on the threads.
- Thread 8122 Ball Studs into the steering
arms, the LF in the middle hole, the RF in
the inner hole.
- Snap the steering arms from Bag “G”
onto the steering arms and pivot.
5263
MIDDLE HOLE
INNER HOLE
3642 Qty 1
Dom Radio Tray
1:1
5263 Qty 3
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
5217 Qty 3
4-40 Lock Nut
LOCTITE
-NOTE: The fit of the assembly will be very tight to
align. Do NOT alter the parts to ease assembling
of this step. Steering pivot will be free however.
1:1
5263 Qty 1
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
*MAKE RIGHT & LEFT ASSEMBLY*
- RIGHT ASSEMBLY SHOWN -

Bag JBag J
Bag JBag J
Bag J cont...cont...
cont...cont...
cont... STEP #2
- Fasten the 3642 Radio Tray to the Main Chassis using
(3) 5263 Screws & (3) 5217 LockNuts.
- Attach 5240 Servo Mounts to your servo in the
position shown using 5253 Screws and 5212 Washers.
- Fasten the servo to the Radio Tray using (2) 5252
Screws.
- Thread 8122 Ball Stud into the lower-most center
hole in the 5242 Servo Saver.
- Determine which of the Spline Inserts are correct for
your servo by pressing it over the drive on the servo.
Align the servo so it has equal throw in both direc-
tions.
- Press the Servo Saver onto the Spline Insert so that
the Servo Saver is perpendicular to the servo, attach
using the screw that came with your servo.
- Snap the main steering link from “Bag G” on the
remaining 8122 Ball Studs.
- Attach the 3209 Antenna Mount using a 5263 Screw.
5263
5263
5263
5252
(TO SERVO MOUNTS) 5252
(TO 3209)
3209
5240
5240
5242
5217
Mount BagMount Bag
Mount BagMount Bag
Mount Bag
-Parts for
Mount
Bag
5283 Qty 7
8-32 x 1/2 FH Screw
1:1
3229 Qty4
Post Collar
5207 Qty 3
8-32 Lock Nut
5217 Qty 4
4-40 Lock Nut
1275 Qty1
INT Front Clip
3229 Qty4
Short Body Post
3015 Qty1
INT Front Bumper
1274 Qty 1
Rear Body Mount
3229 Qty 4
Set Screw
- Slide the Post Collar onto the 3229 Short Body Post, use the Set
Screw to retain the Collar.
- Mount the (2) 3229 Short Body Posts to the rearward set of holes
on the 3015 Bumper using 5283 Screw.
- Attach and center the 3015 Bumper to the 1275 Front Clip using
5283 Screws and 5207 Nuts. The bumper is slotted to allow you to
adjust the body position easily.
- Mount the 1275 Front Clip to the Chassis using (1) 5283 Screw
and 5207 Nut along with (2) 5254 Screws and 5217 Nuts.
FRONT
-Attach the (2) 3657 Rear Bumper Mounts to the Drive Carriers using (4)
5253 Screws and (4) 5263 thru the chassis.
- Mount the 3658 Rear Bumper to the Mounts using (4) 5254 Screws.
- Fasten the 1274 Rear Body Mount to the top of the Bumper Mounts
using (2) 5254 Screws and (2) 5217 Nuts for added strength.
- Attach the (2) 3229 Short Body Posts to the 1274 Rear Body Mount using
5283 Screws.
- Side the Body Post Collars onto the Body Posts and use the 3229 Set
Screw to adjust the height of the collar for the body of your choice.
REAR
5253 Qty 6
4-40 x 3/8 BH Screw
1:1
3229
COLLAR
SET SCREW
3229
POST 5207
1275
5207
5283
5263
5283
5283
5253
3229
POST
3229
COLLAR
3015
3657 Qty 2
Rear Bumper Mount
3658 Qty 1
Dominator Rear Bumper
1:1
5263 Qty 6
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
5254 Qty 6
4-40 x 1/2 BH Screw
1:1
5254
5283
5263
5254
X4
3658
1274
3657

1437
1432
1431
Bag JBag J
Bag JBag J
Bag J Shock AssemblyShock Assembly
Shock AssemblyShock Assembly
Shock Assembly
5274 Qty 2
4-40 x 1/2 SH Screw
-Parts for
Step#1
1437 Qty 4
Firm Bladder (BLACK)
1425 Med / 1426 Short Qty 2ea
2 Med / 2 Short Shock Body
-Parts for
Step#2
1429 Med / 1430 Short Qty2ea
2 Med / 2 Short Shock Shaft
1250 Qty 8
O- Ring
5230
- Attach 1436 Shock Piston to
Shock Shaft using 5230 E-Clips
to secure.
STEP #1 STEP #2
TIP: To press clip in easiest, compress the clip
so the diameter is a little smaller.Insert open
end of clip first, working counter-clockwise to
the bent end as shown.
- Snap Pivot Ball into the 5228 Ball End. Thread the
Ball End onto the Med Shock until the Ball End is
flush with the end of threads on the shaft. Do the
same with the 5235 Ball Cup to the Short Shock.
- Press 1432 Eyelet Cap into 1431 Threaded
Shock Cap so that guide in the Eyelet Cap lines
up in the recess in the Threaded Shock Cap.
- Press the 1437 Firm Bladder (BLACK) into the
Threaded Shock Cap so the dome of the
bladder points away from the Eyelet Cap.
- Thread 1433 Spring Collar onto the
Shock Body.
-NOTE: See shock filling tips for more
instructions.
SHOCK FILLING INSTRUCTIONS:
2) Slowly move the
shaft up and down
several times to allow
air bubbles to escape
to the top.
1) Holding the
shock upright,
fill with oil until
the top of the
body.
3) Refill with
oil to the top
of the shock
body.
5) Move the shock shaft in and out a few
times and then push it all the way in. It
should be easy to push the shaft in until
the eyelet is within 1/8” of the
shock body.
4) Thread the Eyelet Cap
assembly onto the Shock
Body until it is hand
tight. Oil should seep
out of the bleed hole
in the Threaded Cap.
6) Then the shaft
should push itself
out to its full length
slowly.
7) If the shock does not push out
this far there is not enough oil in
it. Add just a little oil and try
steps 5-6 again.
1434 Qty4
Shaft Guide
1435 Qty 8
Reatining Clip
1436 Qty4
Piston
M
5230 Qty 10
E-Clip
1:1
-Parts for
Step#3
1432 Qty4
Eyelet Cap
1431 Qty4
Threaded Cap
1433 Qty4
Spring Collar
1488 Qty4
Spring
1407 Qty4
Spring Bucket
1408 Qty4
Mount Ball
5278 Qty 4
4-40 x 1” SH Screw
5217 Qty 4
4-40 Lock Nut
1436
1429 MED
1430 SHORT
1425 MED
1426 SHORT
1434
1435
1250
OIL
NOTE: Put a few
drops of oil on the
O-Rings!
OIL OIL
Shock BagShock Bag
Shock BagShock Bag
Shock Bag
- Press 1250 O-rings into the Shock
Body followed by 1434 Shaft
Guide. Retain using 1435 Clip.
5228 Qty4
Short Ball End
5228 Qty4
Pivot Ball
40 wt
suggested
starting point.
1255 Qty4
Spacer
BUILD 2 SHORT & 2 MED
LENGTH SHOCKS!
- USE #1429 SHAFT WITH
#1425 BODY.
- USE #1430 SHAFT WITH
#1426 BODY .
1433
8) If the shockrebounds too fast , or you cannot push the shaft in
until the eyelet hits the body, there is too much oil. Loosen the cap
about 2 full turns and pump out a small amount of oil by pushing
the shaft in. Retighten the cap and try steps 5-6 again.
OIL
5228
5273 Qty 2
4-40 x 3/8 SH Screw
5233 Qty 2
4-40 Coned Washer
1:1
1:1 1:1

STEP #3
- Slide 1488 Springs on the shocks
and secure using the 1407 Spring
Bucket.
- Insert 5278 Screws thru the middle
holes shown in the Shock Towers
and fasten each using 5217 Nut.
- Mount the SHORT Shocks to the
Suspension Arm in the outer of the
two options using 5273 Screw.
- Mount the MEDIUM Shocks to the
Suspension Arm in the inner of the
two options using 5274 Screw and
5233 Coned Washer.
1408
5217
8122
Battery Mounts & StrapsBattery Mounts & Straps
Battery Mounts & StrapsBattery Mounts & Straps
Battery Mounts & Straps
-Parts for
Battery
Bag 3266 Qty 2
Li-Po Locator
Battery BagBattery Bag
Battery BagBattery Bag
Battery Bag
Shock BagShock Bag
Shock BagShock Bag
Shock Bag
cont...cont...
cont...cont...
cont...
5263 Qty 4
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
1:1
3009 Qty 1
Strap Buckle
3009 Qty 2
Battery Strap
- Slide 3266 LiPo Locator Mount thru the
small loop in the 3009 Battery Strap.
- Attach the LiPo Locators to the chassis
using (4) 5263 Screws in the outer most
option available on the chassis.
- Thread the straps thru the buckle and pull
each one thru the buckle an equal distance
when mounting the battery into the car.
NOTE: You can simply cut off excess length
of the strap with a pair of scissors.
Mounting TiresMounting Tires
Mounting TiresMounting Tires
Mounting Tires
-Parts for
Battery
Bag 6225 Qty 4
HB /Med Insert
Tire BagTire Bag
Tire BagTire Bag
Tire Bag
7221 Qty 4
Outer Wheel Spacer
5207 Qty 4
8-32 Lock Nut
- Align the 6225 Pre-Mounted Tire&Wheel onto the
axle so that the slot in the wheel will capture over the
roll pin in the axle.
- Fasten the wheel and tire to the axle using (1) 7221
Spacer and 5207 Lock Nut.
NOTE: The 7221 spacer is only necessary when not
using the optional #7208 wheel spacer.
6225
PRE-MOUNTED
TIRE
5263
5263
3266 3009
BUCKLE
3009
STRAP
5207
5263
5233
5273
OUTER
OPTION
5274
INNER
OPTION
5217
5217
5278
5278
*TIP: Creating (2) small vent holes on opposite sides of
the rim allow air to exscape the inner foam insert
making the tire softer. This will make the car have more
traction on the straights and less into the corner. We
recommend starting without the holes first.
NOTE: The 7221 Spacers and
5207 Lock Nuts were packaged
with Bags H and I.

Inner PanelsInner Panels
Inner PanelsInner Panels
Inner Panels
9038 Qty 4
Body Clip
-Parts for
Bag E
9045 Qty 1
Dominator Inner Panel
5252 Qty 2
4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw
1:1
5280 Qty 1
4-40 x 3/8 HOLE HEAD
1:1
- Cut the 9045 Inner Panel directly on the trim lines making the main panel (shown right) and the front panel (shown left). In
the diagram below the darker areas are the panels, the lighter areas are to be removed.
REMOVE
REMOVE
REMOVE
FRONT PANELFRONT PANEL
FRONT PANELFRONT PANEL
FRONT PANEL MAIN PANELMAIN PANEL
MAIN PANELMAIN PANEL
MAIN PANEL
THIS TAB TUCKS IN BEHIND FRONT
SUSPENSION MOUNTS
- Make (2) 1/8” holes on the
dimples of the FRONT PANEL
and mount it to the chassis
using (2) 5252 Screws.
- Remove the “X” area so that the Inner
Panel may saddle over the motor wires
running from the speed control to the
motor.
STEP #1
STEP #3
STEP #2
- Thread the 5280 Hole Head Screw into the lowest and most forward hole in the back of the
servo mounts.
-Make (3) 13/64” holes on the dimples of the MAIN PANEL. These holes will saddle over the
Hole Head screws on the chassis.
- Attach the Main Panel to the
chassis and use 9038 clip to fasten.
THIS EDGE MOUNTS
OVER AND FLUSH
WITH BOTTOM OF
THE RIGHT SIDE OF
CHASSIS.
Misc...Misc...
Misc...Misc...
Misc...
Servo Alignment:
Center your servo using the sub-trim settings within
your radio so that the servo saver and control link make a 90 deg angle as
shown. Adjust the length of the link so that the 3647 Steering Pivot is centered.
Lastly using the End Point Adjustments or Travel function in your radio, set the
servo so it can only move the same amount LEFT and RIGHT as the steering
components. The steering travel should be at 100% at this time. Failure to do
this will result in damaged parts or servo!
Radio Locations:
Shown is the suggested mounting locations for the
reciever and speed control. It is possible to re-arrange the mounting location of
the servo using the remaining holes in the Radio Tray to move this weight
further rearward.
Electronics Removal:
To easily remove all electronics for cleaning,
remove the (2) motor screws and the (3) screws for the Radio Tray. Disconect the
servo control link and all electrical components can be set aside.
SPEED
CONTROL
RECEIVER
*ALWAYS USE THE INNER PANEL**ALWAYS USE THE INNER PANEL*
*ALWAYS USE THE INNER PANEL**ALWAYS USE THE INNER PANEL*
*ALWAYS USE THE INNER PANEL*
Body Mounting:
The best body for the Dominator is the CustomWorks
#9016 Paducah Latemodel. Mount the body with the front wheels centered on
the wheel cut-outs. Ideal spoiler length is roughly 1.5”. Suggested body height is
with the body clips in the lowest most hole in the front and highest in the rear.

TUNING TIPS:TUNING TIPS:
TUNING TIPS:TUNING TIPS:
TUNING TIPS: These are some general guidelines for optimizing handling performance.
None of these “tips” are EVER set in stone. On any given day this manual or any chassis
engineering book or guru can be proved wrong by the stop watch. A good way to approach
chassis set-up is to try one change, practice it, think how the car felt different from before, and
compare lap times from the stop watch…..this will never fail.
CONGRATULATIONS!!!CONGRATULATIONS!!!
CONGRATULATIONS!!!CONGRATULATIONS!!!
CONGRATULATIONS!!! You have now completed the assembly process of your
new Custom Works DOMINATOR! In the next section of this manual you will find some basic
setup hints and advice. It is important to remember that all tracks and racing surfaces are
different. Therefore the suggestions we give you are general in nature and should by no
means be treated as the only options.
- Bent Suspension Pins: Remove shocks to check
free movement.
- Bound Ball Joint: Should spin free on balls
while mounted to the car.
- Bent or Loose Camber Links
- Wore out Bearings or Completely Seized
Bearings
- Chunked Tire: Check to see if Foam or Rubber
Tire is still glued to wheel.
- Loose Screws: Especially Chassis Screws, add
Blue Loctite to prevent.
- Shocks: Either Bound-up or Out of Oil. Must
swivel freely on mounts.
- Foreign Objects: Unlucky Dirt/Stones
preventing Suspension or Steering Movement.
- Blown Differential
- Radio Problem: Bad Servo, Weak Servo Saver
Spring, Transmitter Pot blown.
- Decrease Spoiler
- Heavier Rear Spring
- Softer Front Spring
- Use Rear Sway Bar
- Try Softer Front Compound Tire
- Try Harder Rear Compound Tire
- Lower Front Ride Height
- Raise Rear Ride Height
- Thread Shock Collar UP on
Right Front
- Thread Shock Collar DOWN on
Right Rear
- Decrease Rear Toe
- Decrease Castor
- Add Rear Toe Stagger or
Increase the difference
- Increase Spoiler
- Softer Rear Spring
- Heavier Front Spring
- Use Front Sway Bar
- Try Harder Front Compound Tire
- Try Softer Rear Compound Tire
- Raise Front Ride Height
- Lower Rear Ride Height
- Thread Shock Collar
DOWN on Right Front
- Thread Shock Collar UP on
Right Rear
- Increase Rear Toe
- Increase Castor
- Decrease Rear Toe Stagger or
Decrease the difference
Car Is Loose (oversteers):Car Is Loose (oversteers):
Car Is Loose (oversteers):Car Is Loose (oversteers):
Car Is Loose (oversteers):
Car Pushes (understeers):Car Pushes (understeers):
Car Pushes (understeers):Car Pushes (understeers):
Car Pushes (understeers): Car Is Erratic:Car Is Erratic:
Car Is Erratic:Car Is Erratic:
Car Is Erratic:
MAINTENANCE:MAINTENANCE:
MAINTENANCE:MAINTENANCE:
MAINTENANCE:
Occasionally dirt will get into the moving and pivoting locations in your car. It is best to
periodically clean you car to keep all the suspension components moving freely. Read the tips
below to keep your car running at its best!
- Begin by removing the majority of the dirt using a small brush, toothbrush, or compressed air.
- Compressed air is ok to use, be mindful to not FORCE the dirt into the radio gear, transmission,
bearings, etc. Typically these items only have dirt on them, hitting the dirt with the compressed air
puts dirt
ININ
ININ
IN these parts!
- Tires, either foam or rubber are best cleaned using water or cleaners like Simple Green (TM). Simple
Green also does a great job cleaning car parts as well. Lightly spraying car parts (NOT radio
components, transmission, or bearings) with Simple Green and blowing off with compressed air or
wiping the parts using the paint brush is a great way to clean in a hurry.
- Another R/C friendly cleaner is WD-40 (TM). After the car is clean, very lightly spray the car
components and bearings (NOT radio components, transmission, or air filter). Use your brush or
compressed air to remove the extra WD-40. This will lube your bearings and leave a protective
coating on the parts making it easier to remove dirt later.
- Differential Maintenance is needed when the action of the diff feels “notchy”. Usually cleaning the
diff parts, re-sand the thrust and diff plates with 400 paper, and lube appropriately will be all that is
needed to bring back to new. Ignoring your differential will lead to handling woes and increase
transmission temps, which will cause part failure.
- The #4382 “Blade” parts are made to be an inexpensive wearable item vs the old steel vs steel pin.
You NEED to check this part for wear periodically especially with high bite and big motors.

Camber Gain:Camber Gain:
Camber Gain:Camber Gain:
Camber Gain: Angle of the Camber Link relative to the Suspension Arm. Lowering the camber
link on the shock tower OR raising the camber link on the castor block will INCREASE the
camber angle of the tire when the suspension is compressed. Raising the camber link on the
shock tower OR lowering the camber link on the castor block will DECREASE the camber
angle of the tire when the suspension is compressed. There is not a “correct” set-up and once
again too much of anything is generally bad. This will help change the “feel” of the car thru
the turns.
Camber Link Length:Camber Link Length:
Camber Link Length:Camber Link Length:
Camber Link Length: Comparing this to the length of the Suspension Arm from each pivot
point and keeping the Camber the same, making the link shorter will decrease traction for
that corner of the car while making it longer will increase traction for that corner of the car.
Once the camber link is equal to or greater than the Suspension Arm pivots, the gain of
traction ends. Also a shorter camber link will increase camber gain and a longer decrease
camber gain.
Shock Angle:Shock Angle:
Shock Angle:Shock Angle:
Shock Angle: Leaning the shock toward the car is effectively like changing to a softer spring.
Standing the shock closer to vertical is effectively like changing to a stiffer spring. Try when
the car is working well and when one spring change is TOO much for your set-up.
Ride Height:Ride Height:
Ride Height:Ride Height:
Ride Height: Check by pushing the chassis down once or twice to simulate bumps on the
track. Having the front end higher than the rear will make the car increase rear traction
especially out of the turn. Having the front end lower than the front will make the car increase
front traction especially entering the turn. Generally its safe to start the car with the ride
heights even.
Rear Toe-In:Rear Toe-In:
Rear Toe-In:Rear Toe-In:
Rear Toe-In: Front edge of car tires point toward the chassis as viewed from above the car.
Increasing the angle toward the car will increase rear traction while decreasing front traction.
Decreasing the angle will do the opposite.
SET-UP GLOSSARY:SET-UP GLOSSARY:
SET-UP GLOSSARY:SET-UP GLOSSARY:
SET-UP GLOSSARY:
Caster:Caster:
Caster:Caster:
Caster: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the car.
Increasing the angle will make the car more stable out of the turn and down the straights and
increase steering entering a turn. Decreasing the angle will make the car feel more “touchy” at high
speeds and help steering while exiting the turn.
SET-UP GUIDELINES:SET-UP GUIDELINES:
SET-UP GUIDELINES:SET-UP GUIDELINES:
SET-UP GUIDELINES:
When looking for the “perfect set-up” it is important to remember 2 things...
1) Keeping things simple is best.
2) As you are making your set-up change, the track is changing too! Ask a local racer what the
track usually does from begining to end, especially day to night.
- Start your car’s ride height with it equal at all four corners and the dogbones level to start. Use the
shock collars to adjust ride height by measuring the distance under the chassis when the car is
sitting on a FLAT & LEVEL surface. The left collars will be turned lower than the right side ones.
- Shock collars can only jack weight and adjust the car’s handling when the car makes ALL 4 shocks
squat when the car is set down. Use the RF shock collar to adjust how the car ENTERS the corner.
Use the RR shock collar to adjust how the car exits the corner ON-POWER. Use the LF shock collar
to make the car turn in less, and off the corner more.
- It is best to have a little bit of brake drag when you let off the throttle, this will allow for a more
controlable car in ALL conditions. Increasing how much the brake drags will make your car turn
into the corner harder.

Rear Toe Stagger:Rear Toe Stagger:
Rear Toe Stagger:Rear Toe Stagger:
Rear Toe Stagger: Difference in the amount of Rear Toe-In among the rear tires. Typically used
only on high bite tracks with MORE toe-in on the Left Rear tire than the Right so the rear of
the car helps turn the car LEFT under acceleration.
Wheelbase (Front End):Wheelbase (Front End):
Wheelbase (Front End):Wheelbase (Front End):
Wheelbase (Front End): Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles.
Running the entire front end assembly in the forward position makes the wheelbase longer
and therefore more stable on long/fast tracks with flowing turns. Running the entire front
end assembly in the rear position make the wheelbase shorter and therefore more suitable for
short-tracks where you are constantly turning.
Wheelbase (Rear End):Wheelbase (Rear End):
Wheelbase (Rear End):Wheelbase (Rear End):
Wheelbase (Rear End): This adjustment uses the plastic spacers on the kingpin the rear
bearing carrier rides on. With the spacers in front of the carrier it will lengthen the wheelbase
but will increase steering. If the spacers are behind the carrier it will shorten the wheelbase
but increase rear traction. This is completely backwards from how it works for the Front End
only because in the rear of the car you have the weight of the motor and the torque it creates.
Shortening the wheelbase here makes more of the car hang over the rear tires and promotes
more weight transfer.
Final Drive Chart:Final Drive Chart:
Final Drive Chart:Final Drive Chart:
Final Drive Chart: The chart provided
below gives you the final drive of the motor
to spin the axle 1 revolution. This chart is
NOT just the pinion and spur, but has the
transmission ratio included as well.
- To determine the final drive in your car:
1) Divide the Spur Gear by the Pinion Gear,
which equals a “Ratio”.
2) Multiply the “Ratio” by the “Transmission
Ratio” which will equal your “Final Drive”.
***Transmission Ratio = 2.0 for this car.***
- Gearing choice can vary greatly depending
on track size, surface type, amount of
traction, you motor and driving style. For
starters consult your local hobby dealer or
fellow racer at your local track for the ideal
gear choice for your application.
-Suggested Gearing...(Using stock tires)
6.5 motor 17/81 13.5 motor 25/81

DRIVER:_______________________________
DATE:_________________________________
EVENT________________________________
CLASS:________________________________
TRACK:_________________LENGTH:_______
CAMBER RATE SHIMS:
__________________
TOE IN/OUT _____
CHASSIS HEIGHTS BY LOCATION:
____________ ____________
____________ ____________
MEASURED FROM:
OVERALL WEIGHT: _______
MOTOR: ______________________
PINION:_________ SPUR:_________
AXLE SHIMS:_______
SWAY BAR:NONE .063” .078”
WHEEL SPACERS:
_______________
REAR WIDTH (NARROW OR WIDE)
TOE-BLOCK SHIMS:
LR:____________RR:____________
ANTI-SQUAT SHIMS:
LR:____________RR:____________
CORNER WEIGHTS:
LF:___________ RF:___________
LR:___________ RR:___________
-SHADE IN MOUNTING LOCATIONS ON SUSPENSION ARMS, BEARING CARRIER AND SHOCK TOWER.
TOP OF CHASSIS
BOTTOM OF CHASSIS
MISC...MISC...
MISC...MISC...
MISC...
Clay Hard Packed Loose Dirt
Carpet Asphalt Concrete
Flat Banked True Oval Tri-Oval
Traction: High Medium Low
LEFT RIGHT
_________________ __________________________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
BODY TYPE:MODIFIED LATE MODEL
PART#________________________
SPOILER ANGLE:_________________
SPOILER LENGTH:________________
WICKERBILL:____________________
BODY LOCATION FROM A BODY POST:
______________________________
_______________________________
_______________________________
CAMBER:________
TOE-IN: _________
HUB SPACING:
FR
CAMBER:________
TOE-IN: _________
HUB SPACING:
FR
WHEEL SPACERS:
_______________
CAMBER LINK LOCATION
OUTER INNER
CAMBER LINK LOCATION
INNER OUTER
REAR SUSPENSIONREAR SUSPENSION
REAR SUSPENSIONREAR SUSPENSION
REAR SUSPENSION
LEFT FRONT SHOCK
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:______________________
OIL:__________ PISTON:_________
BLADDER:_____________________
LENGTH:______________________
COLLAR:______________________
SHOCKSSHOCKS
SHOCKSSHOCKS
SHOCKS
CAMBER LINK LOCATION
OUTER INNER
CAMBER:____________
CASTOR:
0O 5O
10O 15O
CAMBER RATE SHIMS:
__________________
CAMBER LINK LOCATION
OUTER INNER
CAMBER:____________
RF LEAD TRAIL
AMOUNT:_______
FRONT SUSPENSIONFRONT SUSPENSION
FRONT SUSPENSIONFRONT SUSPENSION
FRONT SUSPENSION
LEFT RIGHT
SHOCK LENGTH
COLLAR
LENGTH
RIGHT FRONT SHOCK
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:______________________
OIL:__________ PISTON:_________
BLADDER:_____________________
LENGTH:______________________
COLLAR:______________________
LEFT REAR SHOCK
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:______________________
OIL:__________ PISTON:_________
BLADDER:_____________________
LENGTH:______________________
COLLAR:______________________
RIGHT REAR SHOCK
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:______________________
OIL:__________ PISTON:_________
BLADDER:_____________________
LENGTH:______________________
COLLAR:______________________
XZ
Y[
XY
Z[
WEIGHT & CHASSIS HEIGHTSWEIGHT & CHASSIS HEIGHTS
WEIGHT & CHASSIS HEIGHTSWEIGHT & CHASSIS HEIGHTS
WEIGHT & CHASSIS HEIGHTS
SPEED CONTROLBATTERY
RECIEVER
REC/BATTERY/SC PLACEMENT:
AS SHOWN
OTHER
AS SHOWN
_________
AS SHOWN
__________________
INNER OUTER
ACKERMANN: ON SPINDLE
SHORT MIDDLE LONG
TIRES & TRACTIONTIRES & TRACTION
TIRES & TRACTIONTIRES & TRACTION
TIRES & TRACTION
RF: _______________________ _______ ________
LF: _______________________ _______ ________
RR: _______________________ _______ ________
LR: _______________________ _______ ________
COMPOUND DIAMETER INSERT
-SHADE IN AREAS OF
TRACTION ADDITIVE AND
DRAW IN TIRE GROOVES
LF RF
LR RR
TRACTION ADDITIVE:_____________________________
TIRE TYPE: FOAM STREET RUBBER LOOSE DIRT
ACKERMANN: ON SPINDLE
SHORT MIDDLE LONG
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
SWAY BAR:NONE .063” .078”
CASTOR:
0O 5O
10O 15O
KICKUP:NONE 1.5O3O
AXLE SHIMS:_______
INNER PIVOT ANGLE (LEFT)
STOCK(3O) ______
INNER PIVOT ANGLE (RIGHT)
STOCK(3O) ______
R.C. HEIGHT: HIGH LOW R.C. HEIGHT: HIGH LOW
-NOTE: RADIO TRAY
IS .060” HIGHER IN
HEIGHT VS CHASSIS.