Customworks Enforcer g6 User manual

760 Crosspoint Drive

Denver, NC 28037

www.CustomWorksRC.com

Manufactured By:

#0926 ENFORCER G6 DIRECT DRIVE RACING KIT

REQUIRED READING...UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!

Thank You and Congratulations on purchasing the ENFORCER G6 DD! Within this kit you will nd a race winning

car with over 28 years worth of CUSTOM WORKS design and quality. In order for you to realize this race car’s

winning potential it is important to follow the written text along with the pictures included. The steps required to

build this car are very easy, as long as you read before you build.

The instructional format for building this car is to use the “named” bag titled at the top of each section. Each

section will be broken down into “steps” thru the section . The bag containing the chassis holds a variety of

unique parts for your kit. Parts and hardware needed to complete each step will be found in the individual

“named” bag plus the few unique items from the chassis bag you may need for that particualar step. All parts are

referred to by their replacement part number in the instructions.

Considering the various dirt or clay surfaces that Dirt Oval cars are raced on today, the Enforcer has been

designed to be competitive on high bite and well groomed clay tracks with foam racing tires. The instructions

will build the kit using the most verastale set-up Custom Works has found in testing on different types of tracks,

however there are various other suspension congurations available to you that you may nd more suitable for

your local track. For updates and more proven set-ups login to CustomWorksRC.com or check out our video’s on

our YouTube channel.

BUILDING TIPS...

-Parts are made with tight tolerance and held to the side of a “snug” t as wear is expected over time. Try as we

may, occasionally a burr may remain in a part and t more tightly than desired. It is ok to use 400 Grit Sandpaper

or a .125” drill to SLOWLY relieve a part from time to time. Suspension components should always pivot and swivel

freely but not sloppily.

-Using some type of thread locking uid is suggested for all parts where metal screws thread into other metal parts.

We suggest using a lite setting strength thread lock for the reason you may want to take the screw out one day.

Remember it only takes a very small amount to secure the screw.

-Do NOT use power screwdrivers to drive screws into parts. The fast rotation speed can melt and strip plastic parts

or cross-thread into the aluminum parts.

-Lightly sand the edges of graphite pieces using a medium grade sandpaper to avoid splinters. Run a thin bead of

Super Glue around the edges to give pieces greater durability.

SUGGESTED TOOLS

400 Grit Sandpaper Wire Cutters Blue Loctite

Hobby Scissors X-Acto Knife 3/16” Wrench

Small Needle Nose Pliers Phillips Head Screw Driver

HARDWARE GUIDE

-Use the hardware below to help identify the appropriate screw to use throughout the manual.

Steering Components: Spindle & Castor Blocks

3213

ANGLED

STEERING

SPINDLE 8122

5253 X2

5292 X2

7224

ANGLED

AXLE

5217

1255 X2

7209

BALLSTUD

KINGPIN

3400

CASTOR

BLOCK

4244

OUTER

FRT. PIN

- HELP ALIGN AXLE

AND SPINDLE HOLES

USING A .125” DRILL BIT

BY HAND ONLY.

*MAKE L & R ASSEMBLY*

7209 X2

5230

1255

1292

STEERING

ARM

EXTENDER

Front Suspension

5253 X2

3508

STAND UP

TOWER

5262 X4

Front Suspension

4246

INNER

FRONT PIN

5212

5284

3251

ARM

2320

FRONT

SUSP MOUNT

*MAKE L & R ASSEMBLY*

3502

ENF G6

CHASSIS

THREAD 5284

UNTIL FLUSH

WITH THIS FACE.

5292 X2

3246

SLIDE

NUT

Steering Components: Linkages 1

5235

BALLCUP

*MAKE 2 LINKAGES*

5213 5223

1.75” TI

TURNBUCKLE

5235

BALLCUP

5235

BALLCUP 5225

2” TI

TURNBUCKLE

Steering Components: Linkages 2

Steering Components: Linkages 3

1255

SPACER

5257

SNAP BALL CUPS

ONTO BALL STUDS

5217

-FRONT CAMBER LINKS

-REAR CAMBER LINKS

5235

BALLCUP

*MAKE 2 LINKAGES*

5235

BALLCUP 5226

2.375” TI

TURNBUCKLE

-STEERING LINKS

5263 X2

5244 X2

SERVO

MOUNT

5205 X2

5237 X2

SERVO

SAVER

8121 X2

BALL STUD

5253 X2

5212 X2

SCREW PROVIDED

WITH YOUR SERVO

5263 X2

CVD & Drive Assembly: Bearing Carrier & CVD

LOCTITE

GREASE

7217

DRIVE

7215 (SHORT) X1

DRIVE BONE

7216

DRIVE

AXLE

7211

COUPLING

7211

SET

SCREW

7214 (MED) X1

DRIVE BONE

5292 X2

4245

REAR OUTER

SUSP PIN

1255 X4

SPACER

3241

BEARING

CARRIER

1226 X2

BEARING

TIP: FILE SMALL

FLAT HERE FOR CVD

SET SCREW, LESS

CHANCE OF PIN LOSS.

Rear Suspension: Chassis Locations

5251

5263

5205 X2

3242

SHORT

ADJ. ARM

3246

OUTER

SWING

5259

5212

3246

SLIDE

NUT

*MAKES LEFT ARM*

-INSERT SLIDE NUT

ASSEMBLY OPPOSITE AS

SHOWN TO MAKE RIGHT

ARM.

THICK AREA OF 2236 SUSP MOUNT

TOWARD REAR OF CAR!!!

2236

SUSP. MOUNT

4247

REAR INNER

5262 X2

5264 X4

MIDDLE

POSITION

5292 X2

USE BRASS SHIM

HERE TO REMOVE

PLAY WHEN HOUSED

IN 3242

INNER

POSITION

Rear Suspension: Tower & Suspension Arm Assembly

5252 X6

8122 X2

BALL STUD

2224 X2

MOUNT

BLOCK

3512

REAR BULKHEAD

3 HOLES

THIS SIDE

5253 X6

5217 X6

3514 X2

REAR

TOWER EARS

INNER

POSITION

MIDDLE

POSITION

2218 X2

CAMBER LINK

STANDOFF

Transmission

4124

BEARING

CARRIER (R)

4123

RIGHT

BULKHEAD

4121

LEFT

BULKHEAD

4122

BEARING

CARRIER (L)

5252 X2

4131 X2

BEARING

5252 X2

5253 X2

3519

TRANS

BRACE

USE SMALL

AMOUNT OF DIFF

LUBE ON BLADE.

4382

BLADE

STRETCH BLADE OVER

PIN ON DRIVE BONE

5262 X5

*MOUNT DD BULKHEADS*

Direct Drive Diff Assembly

DIFF LUBE

4129

DIFF BOLT

4361

DIFF BOLT

COVER

4360 X3

THRUST

WASHER

4367

THRUST

BEARING

4125

RIGHT

OUTDRIVE

4133

BEARING

8035

DIFF RING

4361

T- NUT

4362

DIFF

SPRING

4126

LEFT

OUTDRIVE

4133

BEARING

8035

DIFF RING

4132 X12

CERAMIC

DIFF BALLS

4887

SPUR GEAR

48P / 87T

Thread the Diff Bolt Outdrive with the Allen

Key into the assembled outdrive with the T-Nut

until you feel the Diff Spring begin to compress.

When diff spring fully compresses threading will

be come difcult, STOP HERE!

Back off 1/2 turn from this point, the thrust load

on your diff should be close.

CVD & Drive Assembly: Installation

7203

ROLL PIN

1255

SPACER

8122

BALL STUD

7047 X1

(THICK)

SNAP BALL CUPS

ONTO BALL STUDS

STRETCH BLADE

OVER PIN ON DRIVE

BONE

4382

BLADE

4382 X2

DRIVE

BLADES

7047 X1

(THIN)

Transmission

3228

SET

SCREW

3228

SHORT

BODY POST

5252 X2

3228

POST

COLLAR

4130

BODY POST

MOUNT

5283

Shocks: Assembly

1250 X2

O-RING

1429 MEDIUM SHAFT

1430 SHORT SHAFT

1438

EYELET

CAP

5230 X21436

PISTON

(MEDIUM)

1415 MEDIUM BODY

1414 SHORT BODY

1464 X2

GUIDE

1417

SEAL

CAP

1437

BLADDER

1433

SPRING

COLLAR

5235

BALL

CUP

NOTE!!! USE SMALL AMOUNT

OF DIFF LUBE OR SHOCK FLUID ON

O-RINGS BEFORE INSERTING THE

SHOCK SHAFT! THIS IS TO PREVENT

TEARING THE O-RING. THREAD BALL CUP

UNTIL EVEN WITH END

OF THREADS ON SHAFT.

INSERT O-RING

INTO COLLAR

2) Slowly move the shaft

up and down several

times to allow air bubbles

to escape to the top.

1) Holding the

shock upright, ll

with oil until just

under the top of

the body.

3) Rell shock

as instructed in

Step 1 if need

be.

5) Move the shock shaft in and out a few

times and then push it all the way in. It

should be easy to push the shaft in until the

ball cup is within 1/16” of hitting the body.

4) Place Bladder onto top of

shock, small amount of oil

should displace.

Thread the Eyelet Cap

assembly onto the

Shock Body until it is

hand tight.

Oil should seep

out of the bleed hole

in the Eyelet Cap.

OIL

SUGGESTED

35 WT R/C

SHOCK OIL.

Shocks: Fluid Filling

6) Then the shaft should

push itself out to its full

length slowly.

7) If the shock does not push out

this far there is not enough oil in it.

Add just a little oil and try steps 5-6

again.

OIL

8) If the shock rebounds

too fast , or you cannot

push the shaft in until the

ball cup gets close to the

body, there is too much oil.

Simply remove the Eyelet

Cap and retighten the cap,

typically this will allow just

enough oil to escape to be

successful without un-

der-lling the shock.

MAKE (2) OF EACH!!!

A) SHORT BODY WITH

SHORT SHAFT

B) MED BODY WITH

MED SHAFT

1407 X4

Spring Bucket

Shocks: Mounting

5277

2214

STAND OFF

1408

SHOCK

BUSHING

5217

8122

1408

SHOCK

BUSHING

8122

2ND

HOLE FROM

TOP

2214

STAND

OFF

5217

5277

Battery Mounts

3266 X2

Battery Mount 3009

Battery

Straps

5263 X4

USE THE BATTERY LOCATION

SHOWN TO START.

- MOVE THE BATTERY AND ANY

WEIGHT BACK FOR MORE DRIVE

OFF THE CORNER.

- MOVE THE BATTERY AND ANY

WEIGHT FRONT FOR MORE ON

POWER STEERING.

Sprint Cage: Front & Rear Bumpers

5254 X4

3433

Front Bumper

3435

Offset

Rear Connector

3435 X2

Connector Post

1” Length

3433 X2

Front

Down Tubes

5254 X2

Sprint Cage: Nerf Bar & Cage Connector

3434 X2

Rear Bumper

3434

Stud

THREAD STUD ON TO

BUMPER, THEN THREAD OTHER

BUMPER ON TO THE STUD UNTIL

THE POSTS MEET.

3431

Main

Cage Half

3432

Nerf Bar 5254 X2

*MAKE L & R ASSEMBLY*

5255

3421

Wing Slide

Bushing 5217

Sprint Cage: Main Cage

5254 X2

5254

5280

Hole Head

Screw

5254

3433

Halo Bars

3431 X2

Body Post

Bar

5254 X4

3435

Cage

Connector

3435

Connector

Post 1”

NOTE: SELECT CORRECT

“CAGE CONNECTOR” AND

“CONNECTOR POST” AS

SHOWN IN DIAGRAM.

FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

BODY PANELS

MOUNT BETWEEN NERF BAR AND OTHER MOUNT-

ING SCREWS FROM THIS STEP FORWARD. YOU MAY

CONSIDER PREPARING YOUR BODY PANELS NOW TO

AVOID DOUBLE-WORK.

Sprint Cage: Main Cage to Chassis

Sprint Cage: Main Cage to Bulkhead

5263 X2

5264 X2

5253 X2

5263 X4

CAGE POSTS MOUNT

IN “FRONT” HOLES OF

LOCATION WHERE THEY

MEET TO THE CHASSIS.

BE SURE CAGE SIDE

PANELS DO NOT TOUCH SUSP

ARMS OR CAMBER LINKS IN

MOTION OF TRAVEL!

5252 X2

Sprint Cage: Front & Rear Bumpers to Chassis

Body Panel Prep & Mounting

*Do these steps BEFORE painting any of the body panels !!!

The body panels in the pictures are painted so that it is easier to see them in these instructions.

- Nose Pieces (2 types): From the single mold, choose from based on your taste or handling desire.

1) The nose on the left is a conventional type nose typically seen on real sprint cars. Its effect for the RC

car is less downforce. Its the better RC racing choice if you have a very low bite loose dirt track or need to

numb the steering feel of your car.

2) The nose on the right is a much more aggresive nose used primarily for most RC dirt ovals. It provides

the most downforce possible but is easier to damage due to its proximity to the front of the car and track.

Trimming:

- To make following the trim lines easiest, trace the trim lines on your body panels with a Sharpie pen so

they follow the path in the panels shown above. Other trim lines exist on the mold but are not the best t

for your kit.

- Drill a .125” hole on the dimpled dot molded on the panel in the location shown above with the “O”.

- Make a body post hole (.200”) on the spot marked with the “X”

- Slight additional clearance needed for the front bumper in the areas marked with a “Z”

Hood, Headers & Tank: Follow the molded lines on the mold to cut the body parts out. Make body

post hole (.200”) on the “X”. Drill a .125” hole on the dimpled dot on the headers marked with an “O”.

Follow the

“notch” in

the body lines.

Body Panels: After mounting the panels to the cage, follow

the dotted lines shown to make clearance for suspension to move.

Attach the Headers to the side panel using the nylon screws and

nuts.

- No need to

trim this area unless

it interferes with

your shock location.

Remove to give

clearance for susp

movement. Do both

sides of car.

Mounting Low DF Nose to Cage Mounting High DF Nose to Cage

- In the hole shown in the above image marked with

the “X”, use (1) 5253 screw to fasten the body panel

to the Front Down Tubes.

- In the hole shown in the above image marked with

the “X”, use (1) 5253 screw to fasten the body panel

to the Front Down Tubes.

- Use a .113” drill or smaller thru the (2) remaining

holes in the Front Down Tube to make the holes

marked by the “O”.

- Re-attach the Front Bumper using (2) 5254 Screws in the remaining holes. Optional front wing mounts

will attach using the screws noted with the “X”.

5254 X25253 5254 X25253

Top Wing: Assemble the wing kit using the instructions provieded inside the wing kit. Mount the wing to

the car and it should look just like the car shown below.

- Bent Suspension Pins: Remove shocks to check

free movement.

- Bound Ball Joint: Should spin free on balls while

mounted to the car.

- Bent or Loose Camber Links

- Wore out Bearings or Completely Seized Bearings

- Chunked Tire: Check to see if Foam or Rubber Tire

is still glued to wheel.

- Loose Screws: Especially Chassis Screws, add Blue

Loctite to prevent.

- Shocks: Either Bound-up or Out of Oil. Must swivel

freely on mounts.

- Foreign Objects: Unlucky Dirt/Stones preventing

Suspension or Steering Movement.

- Blown Differential

- Radio Problem: Bad Servo, Weak Servo Saver

Spring, Transmitter Pot blown.

- Decrease Wing Angle

- Decrease Spoiler on Wing

- Heavier Rear Spring

- Softer Front Spring

- Use Rear Sway Bar

- Try Softer Front Compound Tire

- Try Harder Rear Compound Tire

- Lower Front Ride Height

- Raise Rear Ride Height

- Thread Shock Collar UP on

Right Front

- Thread Shock Collar DOWN on

Right Rear

- Decrease Rear Toe

- Decrease Castor

- Add Rear Toe Stagger or Increase

the difference

- Increase Wing Angle

- Add Spoiler to Wing

- Softer Rear Spring

- Heavier Front Spring

- Use Front Sway Bar

- Try Harder Front Compound Tire

- Try Softer Rear Compound Tire

- Raise Front Ride Height

- Lower Rear Ride Height

- Thread Shock Collar

DOWN on Right Front

- Thread Shock Collar UP on

Right Rear

- Increase Rear Toe

- Increase Castor

- Decrease Rear Toe Stagger or

Decrease the difference

Car Is Loose (oversteers):

Car Pushes (understeers): Car Is Erratic:

TUNING TIPS:

In this manual are some general guidelines for optimizing handling

performance. Be SURE to check out the CustomWorks RC channel on YouTube for more

indivdualized explanation of the many tuning features of your new car. None of these “tips” are

EVER set in stone. On any given day this manual or any chassis engineering book or guru can be

proved wrong by the stop watch. A good way to approach chassis set-up is to try one change,

practice it, think how the car felt different from before, and compare lap times from the stop

watch…..this will never fail.

CONGRATULATIONS!!!You have now completed the assembly process of your new

CustomWorks Enforcer. In the next section of this manual you will nd some basic setup hints and

advice. It is important to remember that all tracks and racing surfaces are different. Therefore the

suggestions we give you are general in nature and should by no means be treated as the only options.

MAINTNANCE:Occasionally dirt will get into the moving and pivoting locations in your car. It is

best to periodically clean your car during the race day to keep all the suspension components moving

freely. Read the tips below to keep your car running at its best!

-Begin by removing the majority of the dirt using a small brush, toothbrush, or compressed air.

-Compressed air is ok to use, be mindful to not FORCE the dirt into the radio gear, transmission or

bearings.Typically these items only have dirt on them, hitting the dirt with compressed air puts dirt IN

these parts!

-Tires, either foam or rubber are best cleaned using water or cleaners like Simple Green (TM). Simple

Green also does a great job of cleaning car parts as well. Lightly spraying car parts (NOT radio

components transmission, bearings) with Simple Green and blowing off with compressed air or wiping

the parts using a paint brush is a great way to clean in hurry.

-Another R/C friendly cleaner is WD-40 (TM). After the car is clean, very lightly spray the car

components and bearings (NOT radio components transmission). Use your brush or compressed air

to remove the extra WD-40. This will lube your bearings and leave a protective coating on the parts

making it easier to remove dirt later. Other products related to R/C and motorcross sell spray coatings

that accomplish the same or better protection.

-Differential Maintnance is needed when the action of the diff feels “notchy”. This occurs when the car

is loose of the corner, spinning the LR tire extremely and/or when there is more motor in the car than

necessary. Usually cleaning the diff parts, re-sand the thrust and diff plates with 400 grit paper, and

lube appropriately will be all that is needed to bring back to new. Ignoring your diff will lead to handling

woes and increased trans temps, which will cause part failure.

SET-UP GLOSSARY:

Caster: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the car.

Increasing the angle will make the car more stable out of the turn and down the straights and increase

steering entering a turn. Decreasing the angle will make the car feel more “touchy” at high speeds and

help steering while exiting the turn.

Camber Gain: Angle of the Camber Link relative to the Suspension Arm. Lowering the camber link

on the shock tower OR raising the camber link on the castor block will INCREASE the camber angle of

the tire when the suspension is compressed. Raising the camber link on the shock tower OR lowering

the camber link on the castor block will DECREASE the camber angle of the tire when the suspension is

compressed. There is not a “correct” set-up and once again too much of anything is generally bad. This

will help change the “feel” of the car thru the turns.

Camber Link Length: Comparing this to the length of the Suspension Arm from each pivot point and

keeping the Camber the same, making the link shorter will decrease traction for that corner of the car

while making it longer will increase traction for that corner of the car. Once the camber link is equal to

or greater than the Suspension Arm pivots, the gain of traction ends. Also a shorter camber link will

increase camber gain and a longer decrease camber gain.

Shock Angle: Leaning the shock toward the car is effectively like changing to a softer spring.

Standing the shock closer to vertical is effectively like changing to a stiffer spring. Try when the car is

working well and when one spring change is TOO much for your set-up.

Ride Height: Check by pushing the chassis down once or twice to simulate bumps on the track.

Having the front end higher than the rear will make the car increase rear traction especially out of

the turn. Having the front end lower than the front will make the car increase front traction especially

entering the turn. Generally its safe to start the car with the ride heights even.

Rear Toe-In: Front edge of car tires point toward the chassis as viewed from above the car.

Increasing the angle toward the car will increase rear traction while decreasing front traction.

Decreasing the angle will do the opposite.

SETUP GUIDELINES:

When looking for the “perfect set-up” it is important to remember 2 things...

1) Keeping things simple is best.

2) As you are making your set-up change, the track is changing too! Ask a local racer what the track

usually does from begining to end, especially day to night.

- Start your car’s ride height with it equal at all four corners to start. Use the shock collars to adjust

ride height by measuring the distance under the chassis when the car is sitting on a FLAT & LEVEL

surface. With foam tires in the 2.6” range, .600” to the top of the chassis (1/2” under the chassis) is a

good measurement to start with.

- Shock collars can only jack weight and adjust the car’s handling when the car makes ALL 4 shocks

squat when the car is set down. Use the RF shock collar to adjust how the car ENTERS the corner. Use

the RR shock collar to adjust how the car exits the corner ON-POWER. Use the LF shock collar to make

the car turn in less, and off the corner more.

- It is best to have a little bit of brake drag when you let off the gas, this will allow for a more

controlable car in ALL conditions. Increasing how much the brake drags will make your car turn into the

corner harder but can make the car also much more loose to drive into the corner. With most speed

controls today a drag brake strength of 10-20% is a good range to work with.