CustomWorks Rocket Stage-3 User manual

760 Crosspoint Drive
Denver, NC 28037
www.CustomWorksRC.com
Manufactured By:
#0713 ROCKET STAGE-3 RACING KIT

REQUIRED READING...UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!
Thank You and Congratulations on purchasing the ROCKET STAGE3! Within this kit you will nd a race winning
car with over 28 years worth of CUSTOM WORKS design and quality. In order for you to realize this race car’s
winning potential it is important to follow the written text along with the pictures included. The steps required to
build this car are very easy, as long as you read before you build.
The instructional format for building this car is to use the “named” bag titled at the top of each section. Each
section will be broken down into “steps” thru the section . All parts and hardware needed to complete all steps
for each separate bag, will be found in each individual bag. and are referred to by their replacement part number
in the instructions. There is no need to steal screws from other bags. In the rare event you need to look in a
different bag for a certain part, it will be noted clearly in the instructions.
Considering the various dirt or clay surfaces that Dirt Oval cars are raced on today, the Rocket has been designed
to be competitive on packed and loose dirt/loam tracks with rubber racing tires. The instructions will build the kit
using the most verastale set-up Custom Works has found in testing on different types of tracks, however there
are various other suspension congurations available to you that you may nd more suitable for your local track.
For updates and more proven set-ups login to CustomWorksRC.com or check out our video’s on our YouTube
channel.
BUILDING TIPS...
-Parts are made with tight tolerance and held to the side of a “snug” t as wear is expected over time. Try as we
may, occasionally a burr may remain in a part and t more tightly than desired. It is ok to use 400 Grit Sandpaper
or a .125” drill to SLOWLY relieve a part from time to time. Suspension components should always pivot and swivel
freely but not sloppily.
-Using some type of thread locking uid is suggested for all parts where metal screws thread into other metal parts.
We suggest using a lite setting strength thread lock for the reason you may want to take the screw out one day.
Remember it only takes a very small amount to secure the screw.
-Do NOT use power screwdrivers to drive screws into parts. The fast rotation speed can melt and strip plastic parts
or cross-thread into the aluminum parts.
-Lightly sand the edges of graphite pieces using a medium grade sandpaper to avoid splinters. Run a thin bead of
Super Glue around the edges to give pieces greater durability.
SUGGESTED TOOLS
400 Grit Sandpaper Wire Cutters Blue Loctite
Hobby Scissors X-Acto Knife 3/16” Wrench
Small Needle Nose Pliers Phillips Head Screw Driver
HARDWARE GUIDE
-Use the hardware below to help identify the appropriate screw to use throughout the manual.

3202
STEERING
SPINDLE
8122
5253 X2
7200
AXLE
5217
-8122 LOCATES
IN “MIDDLE” HOLE
ON BOTH SIDES.
- HELP ALIGN AXLE
AND SPINDLE HOLES
USING A .125” DRILL BIT
BY HAND ONLY.
- USE 3/32” DRILL
HERE TO THREAD SCREW
INTO THE SPINDLE.
Steering Components: Steering & Linkages
Steering Components: Spindle & Castor Blocks
5292 X21255 X2
7209
BALLSTUD
KINGPIN
3400
0
O
CASTOR
BLOCK
4244
OUTER
FRT. PIN
*MAKE L & R ASSEMBLY*
7209
5230
1255
7209
*MAKE 6 LINKAGES*
5235
BALLCUP
5226
2.375” TI
TURNBUCKLE
-FRONT STEERING LINKS
-FRONT & REAR CAMBER LINKS
5235
BALLCUP
3646
STEERING
POST
1233 X2
FLANGED
BEARING
7207
SPACER
8122 X5
BALL STUD
3647 X2
BELL CRANK
8130 X2
BALLCUP
5281
STUD
5252
7047
SHIM
3234
1295
STEERING
ARM
EXTENDER
Front Suspension
3546
FRONT
TOWER
4246
INNER
FRONT PIN
3253
ARM
2335 X2
35
O
FRONT
SUSP MOUNT
*MAKE L & R ASSEMBLY*
5292 X2
5262 X4
5253 X4
3540
ROCKET
CHASSIS

Rear Suspension: Tower Assembly
5252 X6
8122 X2
BALL STUD
2224 X2
MOUNT
BLOCK
5253 X6
5217 X6
3514 X2
REAR
TOWER EARS
INNER
POSITION
MIDDLE
POSITION
2218 X2
CAMBER LINK
STANDOFF
5262 X2
3555
REAR
SHOCK TOWER
3246
SLIDE
NUT
Steering Components: Steering & Linkages 2
Steering Components: Steering & Linkages 1
INNER COLUMN
MIDDLE HOLE
8122 X2
BALL STUD
5217 X2
5217 X2
*LOCTITE*
*TIP* TO REMOVE THE COMBINED PLAY OF
THE BALL CUPS THRU THE STEERING SYSTEM :
1) PLACE THE PLASTIC BAG THE PARTS CAME IN
BETWEEN THE BALL CUP AND THE BALL STUD.
2) SNAP THE BALL CUP ONTO THE BALL STUD
WITH THE PLASTIC BAG BETWEEN THE TWO.
3) TEAR THE PLASTIC BAG FROM THE ASSEMBLY,
REMAINING PLASTIC FROM BAG CREATES SHIM
INSIDE BALL CUP.
-BALL CUP SHOULD STILL PIVOT FREELY!
-USE ONLY ONE PLY OF BAG IF TOO MUCH.
SNAP BALL CUPS
ONTO BALL STUDS

CVD & Drive Assembly: Installation
CVD & Drive Assembly: Bearing Carrier & CVD
LOCTITE
GREASE
7217
DRIVE
PIN
7215 (SHORT) X1
DRIVE BONE
7216
DRIVE
AXLE
7211
COUPLING
7211
SET
SCREW
7214 (MED) X1
DRIVE BONE
5292 X2
4245
REAR OUTER
SUSP PIN
1255 X4
SPACER
3241
BEARING
CARRIER
1226 X2
BEARING
TIP: FILE SMALL
FLAT HERE FOR CVD
SET SCREW, LESS
CHANCE OF PIN LOSS.
7047 X2
(THIN)
7203
ROLL PIN
1255
SPACER
8122
BALL STUD
7047 X2
(THICK)
1
2
SNAP BALL CUPS
ONTO BALL STUDS
Rear Suspension: Chassis Locations
2236
SUSP.
MOUNT
4247
REAR
INNER
PIN
5263 X4
5292 X2
1
2
5251
5263
5205 X2
3242
SHORT
ADJ. ARM
3246
OUTER
SWING
5259
5212
3246
SLIDE
NUT
*MAKES LEFT ARM*
-INSERT SLIDE NUT
ASSEMBLY OPPOSITE AS
SHOWN TO MAKE RIGHT
ARM.
USE BRASS SHIM
HERE TO REMOVE
PLAY WHEN HOUSED
IN 3242
THICK AREA OF 2236 SUSP MOUNT
TOWARD FRONT OF CAR!!!
TOE SETTINGS (ON ARMS)
-5 DEG ON LR ARM
-3 ON RR ARM

3232 X3
SPACER
(BETWEEN TRANS AND PLATE)
1
2
3
Transmission Mount
3563
SPUR
HUB
4406
ROLL
PIN
2225
MOTOR
PLATE
5252 X2
5256
5277 X3
4881
SPUR
81T 48pitch
4379 X3
SPACER
Transmission
4366
TOP
SHAFT
4355
IDLER
SHAFT
4352
TRANS
CASE (L)
5278 X3
1226 X4
BEARING
5263
1230 X2
BEARING
4354
IDLER
GEAR
4370
THICK
4370
THICK
4352
TRANS
CASE (R)
SIDE OF DIFF ASSEMBLY WITH
THE “T-NUT” ON THIS SIDE.
Gear Box Diff Assembly
DIFF LUBE
DIFF LUBE
DIFF LUBE
4361
DIFF BOLT
4361
DIFF BOLT
COVER
4360 X2
THRUST
WASHER
4367
THRUST
BEARING
4365
RIGHT
OUTDRIVE
1229
BEARING
4358
DIFF RING
4361
T- NUT
4362
DIFF
SPRING
4126
LEFT
OUTDRIVE
4130
BEARING
4358
DIFF RING
4132 X12
CERAMIC
DIFF BALLS
4356
DIFF GEAR
THREAD THE DIFF BOLT OUTDRIVE WITH THE
ALLEN KEY INTO THE ASSEMBLED OUTDRIVE WITH THE
T-NUT UNTIL YOU FEEL THE DIFF SPRING BEGIN TO
COMPRESS. WHEN DIFF SPRING FULLY COMPRESSES
THREADING WILL BE COME DIFFICULT, STOP HERE!
BACK OFF 1/4 TURN FROM THIS POINT, THE THRUST
LOAD ON YOUR DIFF SHOULD BE CLOSE.
USE SMALL
AMOUNT OF DIFF
LUBE ON GEARS.
4370
THIN
4370
THIN 7047 X4
SPACER
1 per location

4361
T- NUT
Shocks: Assembly
Transmission Mount
5277 X2
5252 X2 3556
TRANS
BRACE
1202
TRANS
SPACER
5264 X2
3558 X2
SPACER
5252 X2
1250 X2
O-RING
1428 LONG SHAFT
1438
EYELET
CAP
5230 X21436
PISTON
(MEDIUM)
1416 LONG BODY
1464 X2
GUIDE
1417
SEAL
CAP
1437
BLADDER
1433
SPRING
COLLAR
5235
BALL
CUP
NOTE!!! USE SMALL AMOUNT
OF DIFF LUBE OR SHOCK FLUID ON
O-RINGS BEFORE INSERTING THE
SHOCK SHAFT! THIS IS TO PREVENT
TEARING THE O-RING. THREAD BALL CUP
UNTIL EVEN WITH END
OF THREADS ON SHAFT.
INSERT O-RING
INTO COLLAR
Shocks: Fluid Filling
2) Slowly move the shaft
up and down several
times to allow air bubbles
to escape to the top.
1) Holding the
shock upright, ll
with oil until just
under the top of
the body.
3) Rell shock
as instructed in
Step 1 if need
be.
5) Move the shock shaft in and out a few
times and then push it all the way in. It
should be easy to push the shaft in until the
ball cup is within 1/16” of hitting the body.
4) Place Bladder onto top of
shock, small amount of oil
should displace.
Thread the Eyelet Cap
assembly onto the
Shock Body until it is
hand tight.
Oil should seep
out of the bleed hole
in the Eyelet Cap.
OIL OIL
SUGGESTED
35 WT R/C
SHOCK OIL.
6) Then the shaft should
push itself out to its full
length slowly.
7) If the shock does not push out
this far there is not enough oil in it.
Add just a little oil and try steps 5-6
again.
OIL
8) If the shock rebounds
too fast , or you cannot
push the shaft in until the
ball cup gets close to the
body, there is too much oil.
Simply remove the Eyelet
Cap and retighten the cap,
typically this will allow just
enough oil to escape to be
successful without un-
der-lling the shock.
1407 X4
Spring Bucket
Spring/Shock
Locations:
Front: #1805 YELLOW
Rear: #1806 RED

Servo Mounts
Battrey Mount
Shocks: Mounting
5277
2214
STAND OFF
1408
SHOCK
BUSHING
5217
8122
1408
SHOCK
BUSHING
2ND
HOLE FROM
TOP
2214
STAND
OFF
5217
5277
8122
2ND
HOLE FROM
TOP
5263 X4
5235 X2
BALL
CUP
5223
1.75” TI.
TURNBUCKLE
5263 X4
3266 X2
BATTERY
MOUNT
3009
BATTERY
STRAPS
USE THE BATTERY LOCATION SHOWN TO START.
- MOVE BATTERY FWD FOR MORE STEERING AND LESS
ON-POWER DRIVE
- MOVE BATTERY BACK FOR MORE DRIVE OFF CORNER.
Spring/Shock
Locations:
Front: #1805 YELLOW
Rear: #1806 RED
SCREW PROVIDED
WITH YOUR SERVO
5240 X2
SERVO
MOUNT
5205 5242
SERVO
SAVER
8122
BALL STUD
5253 X4
5212 X4
90
O
WHEN BELL
CRANK IS STRAIGHT

Body Mounting
Body Mounts 1
Body Mounts 2
1275
FRONT
CLIP
5283 X4
5207 X2
3229
SHORT
BODY
POST
3015
FRONT
BUMPER
5283 X2
3228
LONG
BODY
POST
1004
REAR BODY
MOUNT
5217 X2 5253 X2
5217 X2
5207
5263 X2
5283
5263 X2
XXXX X2
SUPPORT
POSTS
- DIFFERENT BODIES PROVIDE DIFFERENT HANDLING CHARACTERISTICS,
WE SUGGEST USING THE CW #9072 MOUNTAINEER FOR THIS KIT.
- CORRECTLY MOUNTING
OF THE BODY ALSO PROVIDES A
GREAT AMOUNT OF STABILITY TOO.
THIS BEING SAID SET THE BODY
POST COLLARS SO THAT THE BODY
CLIPS WILL RETAIN THE BODY IN:
- 2ND HOLE FROM THE TOP ON THE
REAR BODY POSTS
-TOP HOLE ON THE FRONT BODY
POSTS.
- BODY SIMPLY RESTS ON
THE “SUPPORT POSTS” TO KEEP
STRESS OFF FRONT WHEEL
WELL AREA.

- Bent Suspension Pins: Remove shocks to check
free movement.
- Bound Ball Joint: Should spin free on balls while
mounted to the car.
- Bent or Loose Camber Links
- Wore out Bearings or Completely Seized Bearings
- Chunked Tire: Check to see if Foam or Rubber Tire
is still glued to wheel.
- Loose Screws: Especially Chassis Screws, add Blue
Loctite to prevent.
- Shocks: Either Bound-up or Out of Oil. Must swivel
freely on mounts.
- Foreign Objects: Unlucky Dirt/Stones preventing
Suspension or Steering Movement.
- Blown Differential
- Radio Problem: Bad Servo, Weak Servo Saver
Spring, Transmitter Pot blown.
- Decrease Wing Angle
- Decrease Spoiler on Wing
- Heavier Rear Spring
- Softer Front Spring
- Use Rear Sway Bar
- Try Softer Front Compound Tire
- Try Harder Rear Compound Tire
- Lower Front Ride Height
- Raise Rear Ride Height
- Thread Shock Collar UP on
Right Front
- Thread Shock Collar DOWN on
Right Rear
- Decrease Rear Toe
- Decrease Castor
- Add Rear Toe Stagger or Increase
the difference
- Increase Wing Angle
- Add Spoiler to Wing
- Softer Rear Spring
- Heavier Front Spring
- Use Front Sway Bar
- Try Harder Front Compound Tire
- Try Softer Rear Compound Tire
- Raise Front Ride Height
- Lower Rear Ride Height
- Thread Shock Collar
DOWN on Right Front
- Thread Shock Collar UP on
Right Rear
- Increase Rear Toe
- Increase Castor
- Decrease Rear Toe Stagger or
Decrease the difference
Car Is Loose (oversteers):
Car Pushes (understeers): Car Is Erratic:
TUNING TIPS: In this manual are some general guidelines for optimizing handling
performance. Be SURE to check out the CustomWorks RC channel on YouTube for more
indivdualized explanation of the many tuning features of your new car. None of these “tips” are
EVER set in stone. On any given day this manual or any chassis engineering book or guru can be
proved wrong by the stop watch. A good way to approach chassis set-up is to try one change,
practice it, think how the car felt different from before, and compare lap times from the stop
watch…..this will never fail.
CONGRATULATIONS!!!You have now completed the assembly process of your new
CustomWorks Rocket. In the next section of this manual you will nd some basic setup hints and advice.
It is important to remember that all tracks and racing surfaces are different. Therefore the suggestions
we give you are general in nature and should by no means be treated as the only options.
MAINTNANCE:Occasionally dirt will get into the moving and pivoting locations in your car. It is
best to periodically clean your car during the race day to keep all the suspension components moving
freely. Read the tips below to keep your car running at its best!
-Begin by removing the majority of the dirt using a small brush, toothbrush, or compressed air.
-Compressed air is ok to use, be mindful to not FORCE the dirt into the radio gear, transmission or
bearings.Typically these items only have dirt on them, hitting the dirt with compressed air puts dirt IN
these parts!
-Tires, either foam or rubber are best cleaned using water or cleaners like Simple Green (TM). Simple
Green also does a great job of cleaning car parts as well. Lightly spraying car parts (NOT radio
components transmission, bearings) with Simple Green and blowing off with compressed air or wiping
the parts using a paint brush is a great way to clean in hurry.
-Another R/C friendly cleaner is WD-40 (TM). After the car is clean, very lightly spray the car
components and bearings (NOT radio components transmission). Use your brush or compressed air
to remove the extra WD-40. This will lube your bearings and leave a protective coating on the parts
making it easier to remove dirt later. Other products related to R/C and motorcross sell spray coatings
that accomplish the same or better protection.
-Differential Maintnance is needed when the action of the diff feels “notchy”. This occurs when the car
is loose of the corner, spinning the LR tire extremely and/or when there is more motor in the car than
necessary. Usually cleaning the diff parts, re-sand the thrust and diff plates with 400 grit paper, and
lube appropriately will be all that is needed to bring back to new. Ignoring your diff will lead to handling
woes and increased trans temps, which will cause part failure.

- Bent Suspension Pins: Remove shocks to check
free movement.
- Bound Ball Joint: Should spin free on balls while
mounted to the car.
- Bent or Loose Camber Links
- Wore out Bearings or Completely Seized Bearings
- Chunked Tire: Check to see if Foam or Rubber Tire
is still glued to wheel.
- Loose Screws: Especially Chassis Screws, add Blue
Loctite to prevent.
- Shocks: Either Bound-up or Out of Oil. Must swivel
freely on mounts.
- Foreign Objects: Unlucky Dirt/Stones preventing
Suspension or Steering Movement.
- Blown Differential
- Radio Problem: Bad Servo, Weak Servo Saver
Spring, Transmitter Pot blown.
CONGRATULATIONS!!! You have now completed the assembly process of your new
CustomWorks Rocket. In the next section of this manual you will nd some basic setup hints and advice.
It is important to remember that all tracks and racing surfaces are different. Therefore the suggestions
we give you are general in nature and should by no means be treated as the only options.
MAINTNANCE:Occasionally dirt will get into the moving and pivoting locations in your car. It is
best to periodically clean your car during the race day to keep all the suspension components moving
freely. Read the tips below to keep your car running at its best!
-Begin by removing the majority of the dirt using a small brush, toothbrush, or compressed air.
-Compressed air is ok to use, be mindful to not FORCE the dirt into the radio gear, transmission or
bearings.Typically these items only have dirt on them, hitting the dirt with compressed air puts dirt IN
these parts!
-Tires, either foam or rubber are best cleaned using water or cleaners like Simple Green (TM). Simple
Green also does a great job of cleaning car parts as well. Lightly spraying car parts (NOT radio
components transmission, bearings) with Simple Green and blowing off with compressed air or wiping
the parts using a paint brush is a great way to clean in hurry.
-Another R/C friendly cleaner is WD-40 (TM). After the car is clean, very lightly spray the car
components and bearings (NOT radio components transmission). Use your brush or compressed air
to remove the extra WD-40. This will lube your bearings and leave a protective coating on the parts
making it easier to remove dirt later. Other products related to R/C and motorcross sell spray coatings
that accomplish the same or better protection.
-Differential Maintnance is needed when the action of the diff feels “notchy”. This occurs when the car
is loose of the corner, spinning the LR tire extremely and/or when there is more motor in the car than
necessary. Usually cleaning the diff parts, re-sand the thrust and diff plates with 400 grit paper, and
lube appropriately will be all that is needed to bring back to new. Ignoring your diff will lead to handling
woes and increased trans temps, which will cause part failure.
SET-UP GLOSSARY:
Caster: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the car.
Increasing the angle will make the car more stable out of the turn and down the straights and increase
steering entering a turn. Decreasing the angle will make the car feel more “touchy” at high speeds and
help steering while exiting the turn.
Camber Gain: Angle of the Camber Link relative to the Suspension Arm. Lowering the camber link
on the shock tower OR raising the camber link on the castor block will INCREASE the camber angle of
the tire when the suspension is compressed. Raising the camber link on the shock tower OR lowering
the camber link on the castor block will DECREASE the camber angle of the tire when the suspension is
compressed. There is not a “correct” set-up and once again too much of anything is generally bad. This
will help change the “feel” of the car thru the turns.
Camber Link Length: Comparing this to the length of the Suspension Arm from each pivot point and
keeping the Camber the same, making the link shorter will decrease traction for that corner of the car
while making it longer will increase traction for that corner of the car. Once the camber link is equal to
or greater than the Suspension Arm pivots, the gain of traction ends. Also a shorter camber link will
increase camber gain and a longer decrease camber gain.
Shock Angle: Leaning the shock toward the car is effectively like changing to a softer spring.
Standing the shock closer to vertical is effectively like changing to a stiffer spring. Try when the car is
working well and when one spring change is TOO much for your set-up.
Ride Height: Check by pushing the chassis down once or twice to simulate bumps on the track.
Having the front end higher than the rear will make the car increase rear traction especially out of
the turn. Having the front end lower than the front will make the car increase front traction especially
entering the turn. Generally its safe to start the car with the ride heights even.
Rear Toe-In: Front edge of car tires point toward the chassis as viewed from above the car.
Increasing the angle toward the car will increase rear traction while decreasing front traction.
Decreasing the angle will do the opposite.
SETUP GUIDELINES:
When looking for the “perfect set-up” it is important to remember 2 things...
1) Keeping things simple is best.
2) As you are making your set-up change, the track is changing too! Ask a local racer what the track
usually does from begining to end, especially day to night.
- Start your car’s ride height with it equal at all four corners to start. Use the shock collars to adjust
ride height by measuring the distance under the chassis when the car is sitting on a FLAT & LEVEL
surface. With foam tires in the 2.6” range, .600” to the top of the chassis (1/2” under the chassis) is a
good measurement to start with.
- Shock collars can only jack weight and adjust the car’s handling when the car makes ALL 4 shocks
squat when the car is set down. Use the RF shock collar to adjust how the car ENTERS the corner. Use
the RR shock collar to adjust how the car exits the corner ON-POWER. Use the LF shock collar to make
the car turn in less, and off the corner more.
- It is best to have a little bit of brake drag when you let off the gas, this will allow for a more
controlable car in ALL conditions. Increasing how much the brake drags will make your car turn into the
corner harder but can make the car also much more loose to drive into the corner. With most speed
controls today a drag brake strength of 10-20% is a good range to work with.

Final Drive Chart: The chart provided below gives you the nal drive of the motor to spin the axle
1 revolution. This chart is NOT just the pinion and spur, but has the transmission ratio included as
well.
Rear Toe Stagger: Difference in the amount of Rear Toe-In among the rear tires. Typically used
only on high bite tracks with MORE toe-in on the Left Rear tire than the Right so the rear of the car
helps turn the car LEFT under acceleration.
Wheelbase (Front End): Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles. Running
the entire front end assembly in the forward position makes the wheelbase longer and therefore
more stable on long/fast tracks with owing turns. Running the entire front end assembly in the rear
position make the wheelbase shorter and therefore more suitable for short-tracks where you are
constantly turning.
Wheelbase (Rear End): This adjustment uses the plastic spacers on the kingpin the rear bearing
carrier rides on. With the spacers in front of the carrier it will lengthen the wheelbase but will
increase steering. If the spacers are behind the carrier it will shorten the wheelbase but increase
rear traction. This is completely backwards from how it works for the Front End only because in
the rear of the car you have the weight of the motor and the torque it creates. Shortening the
wheelbase here makes more of the car hang over the rear tires and promotes more weight transfer.
- To determine the nal drive in your car:
1) Divide the Spur Gear by the Pinion Gear, which
equals a “Ratio”.
2) Multiply the “Ratio” by the “Transmission Ratio”
which will equal your “Final Drive”.
***Transmission Ratio = 2.4 for this car.***
- Gearing choice can vary greatly depending
on track size, surface type, amount of traction,
you motor and driving style. For starters consult
your local hobby dealer or fellow racer at your
local track for the ideal gear choice for your
application.

LONG SHORT INNER SUSP MOUNT SHORT LONG
TOE: ___________ SWAY BAR:
NONE ______________
DRIVER: _____________________________
EVENT:_______________________________
CLASS:_______________________________
TRACK: ______________________________
Clay Hard Packed Loose Dirt
Carpet Asphalt Concrete
Flat Banked True Oval Tri-Oval
Traction: High Medium Low
_________________ CAMBER _________________
CASTOR
+10O +5O 0O -5O -10O +10O +5O 0O -5O -10O
RIGHT
ACKERMANN
OUTER MIDDLE INNER INNER MIDDLE OUTER
LEFT FRONT
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:________________
OIL: ___________________
PISTON:________________
LENGTH:________________
COLLAR:________________
SHOCKS
SHOCK LENGTH
COLLAR
LENGTH
FRONT SUSPENSIONLEFT
________________ AXLE SHIMS ________________
OUTER CAMBER LINK LOCATION
OUTER INNER INNER OUTER
0O ANGLED KINGPIN INCLINE ANGLED 0O
____________ CAMBER RATE SHIMS _____________
SUSPENSION LOCATION
OUTER MIDDLE INNER INNER MIDDLE OUTER
KICK-UP: 15O LO 15O HIGH 20O LO 20O HIGH 25O 35O
RIGHT FRONT
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:________________
OIL: ___________________
PISTON:________________
LENGTH:________________
COLLAR:________________
LEFT REAR
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:________________
OIL: ___________________
PISTON:________________
LENGTH:________________
COLLAR:________________
RIGHT REAR
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:________________
OIL: ___________________
PISTON:________________
LENGTH:________________
COLLAR:________________
__________________ CAMBER __________________
RIGHTREAR SUSPENSIONLEFT
WHEEL SPACERS
.250” .125” NONE NONE .125” .250”
ANTI-SQUAT SHIMS
3O1.5ONONE NONE 1.5O3O
ROLL CENTER SHIMS
.125” .060” NONE NONE .060” .125”
BEARING CARRIER SPACING
RIGHT: FWD 1-OFF FWD MIDDLE 1-OFF REAR REAR
LEFT: FWD 1-OFF FWD MIDDLE 1-OFF REAR REAR
OUTER CAMBER LINK LOCATION
OUTER INNER INNER OUTER
BEARING CARRIER PIN HEIGHT
HIGH R.C. LOW R.C. (NEAR AXLE) LOW R.C. HIGH R.C.
RF: ___________________________________________________
LF: ___________________________________________________
RR: ___________________________________________________
LR: ___________________________________________________
CLEANED WITH: _________________________________________
TRACTION ADDITIVE: ____________________________________
NOTES: ________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
COMPOUND DIAMETER INSERT
TIRE TYPE: FOAM STREET RUBBER LOOSE
-SHADE IN MOUNTING LOCATIONS ON SUSPENSION ARMS, BEARING CARRIER AND SHOCK TOWER.
TIRES & TRACTION
____________________ TOE ____________________
-SHADE IN MOUNTING LOCATIONS
ON SUSPENSION ARMS, BEARING
CARRIER AND SHOCK TOWER.
SHOCK LOCATION: AB C D E
A
E
SHOCK LOCATION:
AB C D
A
D
..
SHOCK
LOCATION:
ON SUSP ARM:
AB C
ABC
.
. .
A B
SHOCK
LOCATION:
SUSP ARM:
- Gearing choice can vary greatly depending
on track size, surface type, amount of traction,
you motor and driving style. For starters consult
your local hobby dealer or fellow racer at your
local track for the ideal gear choice for your
application.

SERVO
LOCATION
AS SHOWN
CENTERED
RECEIVER
AS SHOWN
___________
SPEED CONTROL
AS SHOWN
________________
BATTERY POSITION
AS SHOWN: FR
#3266 STOCK LOCATORS
#1294 CARBON LOCATORS
INNER MIDDLE OUTER
OFFSET ON CHASSIS
SPEED
CONTROL
RECEIVER
RIDE HEIGHTS BY LOCATION :
LF:___________ RF:___________
LR:___________ RR:___________
MEASURED FROM:
TOP OF CHASSIS BOTTOM OF CHASSIS
CORNER WEIGHTS:
LF:___________ RF:___________
LR:___________ RR:___________
MAX CHASSIS HEIGHT:
LF:___________ RF:___________
LR:___________ RR:___________
MEASURED FROM:
TOP OF CHASSIS BOTTOM OF CHASSIS
-MEASURED “RACE READY” WITHOUT THE BODY
OVERALL:_______________________
LF
RF RR
LR
POWER SETTINGS
MOTOR:______________________
AMP DRAW:___________________
TIMING:______________________
PINION:______________________
SPUR:________________________
SPEED CONTROL:______________
”BLINKY” OPEN
SETTINGS:___________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
BATTERY:_____________________
MOTOR TEMP AFTER RUN:_______
AERO
BODY:________________________
SPOILER LENGTH:______________
SPOILER ANGLE:_______________
WICKERBILL:__________________
BOTTOM OF REAR GLASS TO BODY
POST CENTER: ________________
NOTES:
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
ADDED WEIGHT:
FRONT____________
MIDDLE___________
REAR _____________
TRANNY
LOCATION:
 FORWARD
 MIDDLE
 REAR