CustomWorks ENFORCER GSX User manual

REQUIRED READING
Thank You and Congratulations on purchasing this ENFORCER GSX! Within this kit you
will find a race winning car with over 17 years worth of CUSTOM WORKS design and quality. In
order for you to realize this race car’s winning potential it is important to follow the written text along
with the pictures included. The steps required to build this car are very easy, as long as you read
before you build.
The instructional format for building this car is to open each bag in alphabetical order. Each
bag of parts will be broken down into “Steps” in the manual. All parts and hardware needed to
complete all steps for each separate bag, will be found in each individual bag. There is no need to
steal screws from other bags. In the rare event you need to look in a different bag for a certain part,
it will be noted clearly.
Considering the various dirt or clay surfaces that Nitro Dirt Oval cars are raced on today,
the Enforcer GSX has been designed to be competitive on either loose packed dirt with buggy tires
or high bite clay with rubber or foam racing tires. The instructions will build the kit using the most
verastale set-up Custom Works has found in testing on different types of tracks, however there are
various other suspension configurations available to you that you may find more suitable for your
local track.
All hardware (screws, washers, nuts, etc…) are referred to by size and type in the
instructions. To help clarify which screw or nut the instruction is calling for refer to the HARDWARE
REFERENCE supplement. The size of the screw or nut should match the “shadow” of the same
piece very closely.
Screw ID’s are: FH=Flat Head BH=Button Head SH=Socket Head SS=Set Screw
Using some type of thread locking fluid is suggested for all parts where metal screws thread
into other metal parts. We suggest using a lite setting strength thread lock for the reason you may
want to take the screw out one day. Remember it only takes a very small amount to secure the screw.
Do NOT use power screwdrivers to drive screws into parts. The fast rotation speed can easily
melt and strip plastic parts or cross-thread into the aluminum parts.
The supplied white nylon cage can be dyed in a variety of colors using basic fabric dye
purchased at any fabric or craft store. Place parts in boiling water with dye stirred within until parts
are desired color.
Lightly sand the edges of the graphite pieces using a medium grade sandpaper to avoid
splinters. Run a thin bead of Super Glue around the edges to give pieces greater durability.
SUGGESTED TOOLS
Medium Sandpaper .110" Drill Bit Blue Loctite
Hobby Scissors X-Acto Knife 3/16" Drill Bit
Small Needle Nose Pliers Phillips Head Screw Driver 3/16" Wrench
Wire Cutters

Step #1: Begin by checking the fit of the Suspension Pin in
the Suspension Mounts. The Suspension Mounts are
machined to a VERY close tolerance and may be tight on the
pin at first. If it is tight, slide the pin in and out to clear any
burrs that may remain. After checking that the Suspension
Pin spins freely in all four holes, slide (1) #4233 Suspension
Pin thru the front of the #3250 Suspension Arm and thru the
upper hole on the #2204 Suspension Mount as shown in
Figure #1.
Step #2: Repeat Step #1 with #3250 SuspensionArm facing opposite
direction from Suspension Mount. This will make a Left and Right side
front suspension for the car.
Step #3: Add one #5203 E-clip to each end of the
Suspension Pins as shown in Figure #2.
Step #4: Attach Suspension Mounts to the
#1201 Enforcer GSX Chassis with (4) 3/8" FH
Screws in the right-most set of holes as viewed from
the front of the chassis like in Figure #3.
Bag A
Step #5: Locate the Hood Mount from the
Lexan Body Bag and trim the Hood Mount on
the molded line. Position the Hood Mount even
with the front of the chassis as shown in Figure
#4a. With a Sharpie Marker, place a dot where
the hole from the Suspension Mount is located
on the Hood Mount. As shown in Figure #4b,
do this to both sides of the Hood Mount. This is
to mark the spot where the #2210 Front Mount Brace will
go thru the Hood Mount.
Step #6: With a 3/16" Drill Bit make a hole through both marks
you made on the Hood Mount in Step #5. Slide the #2211
Suspension Mount Brace thru the drilled holes in the Hood
Mount. Attach the Suspension Mount Brace with
(2) 1/2" BH screws to the Suspension Mount as
shown in Figure #5.
Step #7: Attach the #1242 Front Shock Tower
to the Suspension Mounts with (2) 1/4" BH
Screws in the bottom right-most set of holes as
viewed from the front of the chassis like in
Figure #6.
NOTE: Stepped side of Suspension Arm faces the front of the car.
Front Suspension

Bag B
Castor Blocks / Suspension Tie-Rods
For Step #1 thru Step #7 you will be building both Right and
Left steering assemblies.
Step #1: Press the #7201 Front Axle into the #3202 Steering
Block. Align holes in both parts as shown in Figure #7 so that
they will allow #7202 King Pin to slide thru in the next step.
Step #2: Place the Steering Block with Front Axle into #3203
Castor Block as shown in Figure #8. Slide the King Pin thru
the #3203 Castor Block and Steering Block. Attach an e-clip
to each end of the King Pin.
Step #3: Thread one 6/32 x 1/8" set screw into the back of the #7201
Front Axle as shown in Figure #9.
You should now have a Right and Left Steering Assembly as
shown in Figure #10.
Step #4: Press the Pivot Ball into the #5228 Ball End, then thread
the Ball Ends onto each end of the #5222 Turnbuckle. When
completed it should look like the Camber Links in Figure #11.
NOTE: The Turnbuckles have normal threads
on one side of the turnbuckle, and reverse
threads on the other. Mark the Ball End with the
NORMAL threads so you remember which way
to turn the Turnbuckle for adjusting the Camber
Link with supplied tie-rod wrench.
Step #5: Attach the Camber Link by sliding a 1/2” BH
Screw thru the Ball End and thread it into the top of
the Castor Block as shown in Figure #12.
Step #6: Mount the Steering Assembly to the
Suspension Arm by sliding #4237 Outer Suspension Pin
thru the Suspension Arm and Castor Block. Add one e-
clip to each end of the pin as shown in Figure #13.

Step #7: Thread one 4-40 X 5/8" BH Screw thru the front of
the Shock Tower in remaining upper holes that mount the
Shock Tower to the Suspension Mounts. On the backside of
the Suspension Mount, slide the Ball End from the Camber
Link onto the 5/8” BH Screw and fasten to the car with (1) 4-
40 Lock Nut. The finished assembly should look like that in
Figure #14.
Bag C
Step #4: Install the Steering Rack
Slide into the Steering Rack with
the raised hole on the Steering
Rack Slide to the RIGHT. The
Steering Rack Slide should move
FREELY in the Rack. If it does not, check for flashing on the slide OR pry open the
Rack with your fingers. You should now have the Steering Assembly built as seen in
Figure #16.
Steering Assembly
Step #1: Press the Pivot Balls into the #5214 Ball End, then thread the Ball Ends
onto each end of the #5221 Turnbuckles. When completed it should look like the
Steering Links in Figure #15. Make 2 of these.
Step #2: Assemble the Steering Links on each
end of the #3207 Steering Rack Slide using (1) 3/
8" 2-56 SH Screw with (1) #2 Washer between
the screw head and Ball End. Insert (1) 2-56
Locknut into the hexagon hole on the backside of
the Steering Rack Slide and tighten the 3/8" 2-56
SH Screw to it. Refer to Figure #15 for example.
Step #3: On the remaining turnbuckle thread (1) #5228 ball end and (1) #5229 ball
end, these are the two shortest ends in the bag. Now install the Servo Linkage to the
raised hole on the #3207 Steering Rack Slide using (1) 1/2" 2-56 SH Screw with (1) #2
Washer on each side of the Ball End. Insert (1) 2-56 Locknut into the hexagon hole on
the backside of the #3207 Steering Rack Slide and tighten the 1/2" 2-56 SH Screw to it.
Refer to Figure #15 for example.
NOTE: You will need to adjust the length of all of these rods after the car is
completely assembled and your radio is installed.
Step #5: Mount the now completed Steering Assembly to
the chassis using (2) 3/8" FH Screws.
Step #6: Mount the Steering Links to each Steering
Block using (1) 3/4" 2-56 SH Screw with (1) # 5232
Coned Spacer between the pivot ball and steering arm.
The cone faces up toward the pivot ball as shown in
Figure #17. Fasten the 2-56 screw to the steering arm
with (1) #2 Washer and (1) 2-56 Lock Nut.

Rear Suspension Arms and Shock Tower
Bag D
Step #1: Remove flashing and burrs from the
#3240 Suspension Arms then attach to the #2222
Toe-Block with a #4234 1/8" X 7/8" Suspension Pin
as shown in Figure #18. Add one #5230 1/8" E-Clip
to each end of the Suspension Pin. This clip is
slightly LARGER than the clips used so far in the kit.
Step #2: In the rear of the chassis, insert the (3) 1/2”
FH Screws thru outer most set of holes on the LEFT
side of the chassis. Now insert the other (3) 1/2” FH
Screws thru the middle set of holes on the RIGHT
side of the chassis. Place (1) #1248 Toe Block
Spacer over both sets of screws in the rear of the
chassis as shown in Figure #19.
Step #3: Mount the #2222 Toe Blocks to the
chassis by aligning the rear 1/2” FH Screw passing
thru the chassis with the threaded hole closest to
the (3) Dimples on the Toe Block. By mounting the
screw in the hole with the (3) Dimples next to it, you
are mounting the Toe Blocks on the car so that the
rear wheel will have 3 Deg of Toe-In. If the screw
were to thread into the hole with the (1) Dimple next
to it, the rear wheel would have 1 Deg of Toe-In.
Refer to Figure #20 for example or mounting
options. Continue to fasten the other screws.
Step #4: Attach the #2224 Top Plate Block and (2)
#3263 Shock Tower Stand-Offs to the #1243 Rear
Shock Tower using (6) 3/8” BH Screws as shown in
Figure #21.
Step #5: Attach the (2) #2218 Camber Link Stand-
Offs to the same side of the #1243 Shock Tower
as the blocks from the previous step using (2) 3/8”
BH Screws. Mount the Camber Link Stand-Off in
the middle position of the upper row of holes as
shown in Figure #22.
Step #6: Mount the Rear Shock Tower assembly
to the rear of the chassis using (4) 3/8” FH Screws.
When completed your car should look like the one
in Figure #23.

Step #1: Open the bag containing the #7210 CVD’s and build them according to the
instructions.
NOTE: Save the extra axle shims included in the bag, they will be used in Step #2
Step #2: Press (2) #1226 3/16"X 3/8" Unflanged Bearing into each side of the
#3241 Bearing Carrier. Following the sequence of
part in Figure #24, first slide (2) of the THIN axle
shims that were packaged in the #7212 “CVD Bag”.
Now slide the CVD Axle thru the bearings in the
carrier. Finish this step by sliding (1) THICK Shim
from the “CVD Bag” onto the axle. Make (2) of these.
Step #3: To secure the axle, press the #7204 Roll Pin into the hole in
the axle that is close to the outer bearing in the #3241 Bearing
Carrier. Although it can be difficult at times, the best way we have
found to do this is to get the Roll Pin into position directly over the
hole by holding in the entire piece as shown in Figure #25. With the
piece on its side and the roll pin in position, use the pliers to squeeze
the Roll Pin into the axle. When complete, equal parts of the Roll Pin
should be on both sides of the axle. Make (2) of these.
Step #4: Partially slide (1) #4235 Suspension Pin thru the
remaining holes in the end of the Suspension Arm. Add (2) #4236
Rear Carrier Shims to the Suspension Pin then slide the
Suspension Pin thru the BOTTOM holes on the Bearing Carrier.
After the pin is thru the Bearing Carrier place (2) more Rear
Carrier Shims between the Bearing Carrier and the Suspension
Arm. To finish assembly add (1) #5230 E-Clip to each end of the
Suspension Pin. There should now be 2 Shims on each side of
the Bearing Carrier as shown in Figure #26. Do this step to both
sides of the car.
NOTE: There are extra .010" thick Shims enclosed, these are to be used if the Rear
Carrier Shim does not take out all of the play. You want the Bearing Carrier to be
free as it pivots on the pin, but not slide forward/backward on it excessively. Also the
Bearing Carriers can fit on either side of the car; there is no RIGHT or LEFT side to
this part.
Step #5: Press the Pivot Ball into the Ball End, then
thread the #5213 Ball Ends onto each end of the
#5223 Turnbuckles. When completed it should look
like the Camber Links in Figure #27. Make 2 of
these.
Bag E Bearing Carriers/Camber Links/Drive Train

Step #6: Attach one end of the Camber Link to the
Aluminum Stand-Off already assembled on the
Shock Tower with (1) 3/8" BH Screw. Attach the other
end of the Camber Link with (1) 1/2" BH Screw to the
FRONT of the Bearing Carrier and thru the OUTER-
MOST hole. Tighten (1) 4-40 Locknut to the Screw
on the back side of the Bearing Carrier as shown in
Figure #28.
Bag F
Step #1: Apply a generous amount of #4391 Diff Lube
into the diff ball holes on the #4407 Diff Gear. With Diff
Lube in holes, press the (12) #4357 Diff Balls into the holes
on the Diff Gear. Be sure to spread out the grease that was
pushed out when installing the Diff Balls. Finally press (1)
#1229, 5/32" X 5/16" Bearing into the center of the Diff
Gear as shown in Figure #29.
Step #2: Using the #4402 Left Diff Outdrive Hub, press the #4362
Diff Spring into the slotted end of the Diff Hub followed by the
#4361 T-Nut as shown in Figure #30.
Step #3: Following along with Figure #31, slide (1) #4360
Diff Thrust Washer onto the #4361 2-56 Diff Bolt. Apply a
good amount of #4388 Black Grease to the Thrust Washer
on the side facing away from the bolt head. Now stick (6)
#4359 Diff Thrust Balls into the Black Grease on the Thrust
Washer. Slide the remaining Thrust Washer onto the Diff
Bolt. There should be enough Black Grease to hold the
Thrust Balls in place during assembly. Now carefully slide
the entire Bolt into the outdrive end of the #4403 Right Diff
Outdrive Hub without losing any Thrust Balls. Finally insert
the Bolt Cover.
Step #4: Insert (1) #1229, 5/32" X 5/16" Bearing
into the Right Outdrive Hub. Apply a very thin coat
of Diff Grease to the flat area on BOTH the Right
AND Left Outdrive Hubs as shown in Figure #32.
Now place (1) #4404 Diff Drive Ring on both areas
with the thin coat of Diff Lube. Slide the Diff Gear
onto the Right Outdrive Hub. Finally slide the Left
Outdrive Hub over the Diff Bolt and onto the Diff Gear. Tighten the Diff Bolt to the T-
Nut but not all the way. Check to make sure the Diff Plates are still in their seat on
the Outdrive Hubs and rotate the Diff Hub several times as you tighten the bolt.
Follow Step #5 for instruction on how to finish tightening the Diff Bolt.
Differential Assembly

Step #5: As shown in Figure 33, place the 1/16” wrench
used earlier throgh the slot in the opposite Diff Outdrive. As
you tighten the Diff Bolt, you should notice the T-Nut stubs
moving closer to the end of the Diff Hub slot. While the T-
Nut is moving closer to the end of the slot, the spring
behind the T-Nut is being compressed. When the T-Nut
reaches the bottom of the slot, the spring should be fully
compressed. Pay attention to feeling when the spring is
fully compressed, you DO NOT WANT TO OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLT. When the
spring is fully compressed, loosen the Diff Bolt 1/8 of a turn, No more or less. Your
Diff should spin smoothly with the hubs turning in opposite directions.
NOTE: After running the car once or twice, check the adjustment of the Diff.
Follow Figure #34 for Steps #1 thru #3
Step #1: Separate the #4401Transmission Halves from the each other, and insert
(2) #1226, 3/16" X 3/8" Bearings into the top two holes of each case and (1) #1230,
3/8" X 5/8" Bearing to the bottom of each case.
Step #2: Slide (1) THICK Washer over the
longer part of the #4368 Top Drive Shaft and
insert the long side thru the top bearing in the
Right Side Transmission Half. Now place the
#4405 Idler Gear into the middle bearing and
the Right Side Diff Hub (Hub with Diff Bolt) into
Right Transmission Half into the lower bearing
on the Right Side Transmission Half.
Step #3: Place (1) THICK Washer over the short shaft of the Top Drive Shaft and
align the Left Side Transmission Half over all 3 gears.
Step #4: Install (5) 3/8" SH Screws into the Left Side Transmission
Half and tighen them into the Right Side Transmission Half. Press
the #4406 Roll Pin into the hole in the Top Gear Shaft so that equal
parts of the Roll Pin stick out of the shaft, just as when installing the
Roll Pins on the CVD axles. Refer to Figure #35 for example.
Bag G Transmission Casing

Bag H
Step #1: Press the #4424 BrakeAdapter onto
the #4371 Inner Clutch Hub with the notches
liningup asshowninFigure #36.It willfitVERY
tight and may need to be tapped lightly to fit
into place.
Step #2: Slide the #4423 Brake Disc onto the
Brake Adapter. The finished piece should look
like Figure #37.
Follow the parts as they are laid out in sequence in Figure #38 for
Step #3 thru Step #7.
Step #3: Slide the #4371 Inner Clutch Hub onto the Top
Drive Shaft and align the slot over the Roll Pin.
Step #4: Place the #4373 Clutch Disc onto the Inner
Clutch Hub with the #4372 Outer Clutch Hub on top.
Step #5: Install (1) #4376, 3/16" X 3/8" Bushing on the
shaft followed by (1) Silver Washer, (1) Thick Gold
Washer, and (1) Silver Washer (#4375).
Step #6: Slide on #4374 Torque Control Spring and
secure all of the above with (1) #5245 5-40 Lock-nut
until the top of the nut is flush with the end of the Top
Drive Shaft.
Step #7: Attach the #4960 Spur Gear with (2) #5250 3/
16” BH Screws with the flat side facing out.
Bag I
Step #1: Following Figure #39, slide the #4421 Brake Shoe onto
the #4420 Brake Bracket with both crescent shape cut-outs facing
the same direction.
Step #2: Install the Brake Bracket with Shoe to the Transmission as
shown in Figure #40 so that the Brake Disc is between the Bracket
and the Shoe. Secure the top of the Brake Bracket to the
Transmission using (2) 1/4” BH Screws.
Slipper-Clutch Assembly
Brake Assembly

Bag J
Step #1: Using the Black Grease used to build the Diff, place a
small amount on both Dog-Bone Pins as shown in
Figure #43.
Step #2: Following Figure #44, bring the
Transmission in from the FRONT of the car, place each
Dog-Bone into the Outdrive Hub and set the
Transmission on top of the #1202 Transmission
Spacer. Secure the Transmission to the Chassis using
(4) 1/2” FH Screws that pass thru the bottom of the
Chassis and the Spacer, threading into the
Transmission.
Step #3: Slide the #3265 Transmission Foot shown in
Figure #45 underneath the front on the Transmission. Slide
(2) 1”FH Screws thru the bottom of the chassis and thru the
Foot threading the screws into the Transmission.
Step #4: Mount the #1244 Transmission Brace to the top of
the Transmission as shown in Figure #46 using (2) 3/8” BH
screws.
Step #5: Locate the Tail Tank Mount in the Lexan
Body Bag and drill (2) .110” holes on the “dimples”
molded in the Mount. Secure the Mount to the rear of
the Transmission Brace using (2) 3/8” BH Screws with
a Washer on each as shown in Figure #47.
Mounting Transmission
NOTE: It is possible to mount the entire brake assembly so it faces
toward the rear of the car allowing the motor to mount closer to the
gearbox. However you must run a small enough spur gear so that
the #4422 Brake Cam does not swing INTO the spur gear.
Step #4: Press the #4425 Brake Cam Clip over the end of the
Brake Cam in the location shown in Figure #42. Make sure the cone
of the clip faces away from the Brake Bracket. We have found it
easiest to press the Clip on the Brake Cam using a 3/16” socket.
Step #3: Slide the #4422 Brake Cam thru the small holes remaining
in the Brake Bracket. The lever of the Brake Cam should be facing
the same direction as shown in Figure #41.

Bag K Mounting and Building Shocks
Step #4: Following the sequence of parts in Figure #52,
slide the VC Bobbin from Step #2 on the Shock Shaft
and then (2) #1250 O-Rings. Add a couple drops of oil to
the O-Rings and insert the entire Shock Assembly into
the Shock Body and FIRMLY pull the Shock Shaft
through in order to “seat” the VC Bobbin. Finally press
the #1409 Pivot Ball into the Eyelet and thread it onto the
Shock Shaft. Be sure when holding the Shock Shaft with
pliers to use a rag to cover the shaft so the pliers don’t scar
it.
For Step #1 thru Step #5 , complete each task (4) Times.
Step #1: Mount (1) #1403 Black O-ring into the groove on the
#1402 Threaded Shock Collar as shown in Figure #48. Add a
drop of Shock Oil to the O-ring and thread it onto the #1401
Threaded Shock Body with the “shoulder” facing down.
Step #2: Soak the #1411 VC Foam with the Shock Oil and
install it onto the VC Bobbin as shown in Figure #49.
Step #3: Remove the #1405 Shock Pistons with the “2” on them
from the parts tree as shown in Figure #50. Be SURE to
REMOVE ANY BURRS on the Shock Piston, or your shock will
NOT work correctly. Add a #5230 E-Clip to each side of the #2
Shock Piston on the #1413 Shock Shaft. Install (1) #1406 O-ring
over the threads on the TOP of the Shock Body. Both of these
are shown in Figure #51.
Step #5: Follow Figure #53 to fill the shocks with oil.

Step #6: Using #1442 Silver Springs on the Rear and #1444
Gold Springs on the Front, slide the spring over the shock shaft
and onto the shock body. Compress the spring and than add
the #1407 Spring cup by sliding it on the shaft through the
notch in the spring cup. The cup should than slide down over
the shock eyelet until it bottoms out. Release the spring and
your shock should now look like the one at the top of Figure
54.
Step #7: On the Rear Shock Tower, Insert (1) 4-40x7/8” SH
Screw thru the inner hole on each side of the Shock Tower
as shown in Figure #55. Thread on (1) #2214 Shock Stand-
Off onto each screw with the shoulder on the spacer facing
AWAY from the Shock Tower.
Step #8: On the Front Shock Tower, Insert (1) 4-40x7/8" SH
Screw thru the inner hole on each side of the Shock Tower
as shown in Figure #56. Thread on (1) #2214 Shock Stand-
Off onto each screw with the shoulder on the spacer facing
AWAY from the Shock Tower.
Step #9: Mount the Rear Shocks by placing the
Shock Cap End of the shock onto the mount on
the Shock Tower. Insert (1) #1408 Shock Bushing
on the mount and into the Shock Cap and fasten
with (1) 4-40 Lock-nut as shown in Figure #57.
Following Figure #58 mount the Eyelet end of the
Shock with (1) 1/2" SH Screw and (1) #5212
Washer to the INNER most hole on the
Suspension Arm.
Step #10: Mount the Front Shocks by placing
the Shock Cap End of the shock onto the mount
on the Shock Tower. Insert (1) #1408 Shock
Bushing on the mount and into the Shock Cap
and fasten with (1) Lock Nut as shown in Figure
#59. Mount the Eyelet end of the Shock in
between the supports in the Suspension Arm
with (1) 5/8” SH Screw.

Bag L
.
Note: If you already have your radio and electronic
equipment you may proceed to Bag “M”. If you wish to install it
at a later point than proceed to Bag “N”. In our experience,
radio installation is much easier without the cage and body
attached.
Fuel Tank / Motor Mounts
Step #1: Slide (3) 3/8” FH Screws thru the
bottom of the chassis in the locations shown in
Figure #60. There are two sets of holes for the
fuel tank in the chassis, place the screws in the
holes closest to the front of the car. Slide (1) O-
ring over each of the 3 screws and thread the
screws into the #4450 Fuel Tank so that the tank
barely snugs the O-rings. If you overtighten the
screws the O-rings will not dampen the vibrations
from the motor as effectively.
Step #2: Using (4) M3x8mm Screws place (1)
Washer on each screw and slide it thru the slots in the chassis
as shown in Figure #61. Attach the (2) #3270 Nitro Motor
Mounts with the tapered side facing toward the right side of
the car.
Bag M Servo and Linkage Installation
The following steps will guide you through the process of installing your radio
equipment. While the installation we show will provide the most versatile use of your
new GSX ENFORCER it is important to understand that radio equipment comes in a
variety of shapes and sizes. Always follow the recomendations of your radio or
electronic equipments manufacturer regarding their use and operation. For alternate
installations consult your hobby dealer or you can find more information
on our website.
STEP #1: Using the (4) 3/8” FH screws and (4) washers, mount the
servo to the #5240 Servo Mounts being sure to place the open slots of
the mounts toward the bottom of the servo. Also the additional mounts
on the side of the Servo Mounts must face toward the bottom of the
picture with the servo positioned as shown in Figure #62. Do this step
to both servos to be used in the car.
STEP #2: Slide (1) 1/2” SH Screw thru the back of the #5242 Servo
Saver in the largest hole available. Now slide (1) Washer and the Ball
End from the Steering Link already mounted to the Steering Rack on the
car over the screw in the Servo Saver and secure with (1) Lock Nut as
shown in Figure #63.

Bag M
STEP #3: Remove the Servo Saver Spline
adapters from Bag M along with the #5242
Servo Saver. Determine which of the 3 Spline
Adapters fits your particular brand of servo by
sliding it over the spline on top of the servo.
Now align your Servo Saver over the spline so
that the servo will have equal amounts of travel
when mounted as shown in Figure #64.
STEP #4: Mount the steering servo to the car using (2) 3/8” FH Screws.
Following Figure #64 note when the Servo Saver is facing straight up
the Slide in the Steering Rack is centered in the car. Adjust the link from
the Servo Saver to the link to correct this. Mount the throttle servo to
the car using (4) 3/8” Screws with the servo spline facing the front of the
car as shown in Figure #65.
STEP #6: Following Figure #67, mount the
#5246Servo Horn Adapter to the servo horn that
came with your radio using the (2) Small Self-
Tapping Screws.
STEP #7: Take (1) of the 5246 Threaded Rods and
cut off half of BOTH the threaded and smooth rod
areas. This will leave the “threaded” end roughly 3/8”
long and the “smooth” end of the rod approximately
2” long. Thread the white Ball Cup onto the rod and
slide on (1) Brass Collar, (1) Aluminum Pivot, and
lastly (1) more Brass Collar as shown in Figure #68.
Mount the Aluminum Pivot to the Adapter using (1)
Reatainer Clip.
STEP #5: Now thread your antenna wire through the base of
the antenna mount and then through the antenna tube as
shown in Figure #66. Secure the antenna mount to the
chassis with (1) 1/4” FH Screw through the hole at the right
rear of the steering servo. Use double sided tape and mount
your reciever to the top of the steering servo.

STEP #9: Snap the white ball cup onto the ball stud on your carb. Keeping the servo
positioned as shown in Figure #69, loosen the collar on the right side of the Pivot
and slide the rod so that the carb can fully close with the throttle in the neutral
position. Next slide the right side collar up against the Pivot and tighten. Lastly adjust
the left side collar so that it compresses the spring 1/8” to 3/16”.
STEP #8: Now take the other Threaded Rod and thread on the Black Ball Cup
roughly half way. Place (1) Collar then (1) Small Washer onto the rod and leave
roughly 1 11/16” distance between the end of
the threads and the collar. Now slide the open
end of the rod thru the front of the Brake Cam
and place (1) Small Washer, (1) Small Spring,
and finally (1) Collar so it all fits together as
shown in Figure #69. Align the servo horn on
the splines in the same fashion as you did the
servo saver for the steering rack, so that you
have equal throw in both directions. Finally
mount the servo horn with the original screw
that came with your servo. With the Throttle
Servo positioned as you see in Figure #69,
there should be a slight bit of resistance when
you try and spin the spur gear.
NOTE: For illustrative purposes the motor has been placed in the car. You will want
to mount the motor when you have the clutch bell assembly attached.
STEP #9: Within your radio locate the End Point
Adjustments (EPA) setting. Here you will reduce
the amount of travel your servo has so that you
do not damage your carb. You only want the
servo to pull the carb slide only as far as the
slide will go. If you do not set the end point the
servo will pull too far on the carb and certainly
will damage it. Notice the carb position in Figure
#70, this is full throttle to the motor and the
servo should pull no further than this.
STEP #10: Following along with Figure #71,
adjust the Braking End Point. Notice that at full
brake in the picture the spring on the throttle
linkage is just about fully compressed. This is
about as far as you want to go with the brake
travel. However on the track, you may want to
trim out even more Braking End Point so that
when you stab full brake it does not lock up the
tires.

Bag N Tire and Wheel Installation
NOTE: In this step you will be using a fast drying super glue type adhesive to
secure the tires and wheels to each other. Be very careful with this process as
the glue can tend to run very easilly through the tire and may glue your finger
to the tire or wheel before you know it. You must follow the
directions and precautions provided by the glue manufacturer
to insure a secure bond.
STEP #1: Using a reamer or the previously used .110” drill bit.
Drill a hole in the center of each of the 4 wheels as shown in
Figure 72.
STEP #2: If using foam inserts place them inside the tire before
mounting on wheels. Now place the wheels inside each of the
tires and work both beads of the tire into the channels on the outside
edge of the rim. After all 4 tires are completed peel back a portion of
the tire from the wheel and apply an even bead of tire glue between
the wheel and the tire as shown in Figure 73. Repeat this step
several times working your way around the tire until it is secure. Now
set the wheel and tire down BUT BE SURE TO PLACE THE
FRESHLY GLUED SIDE UP until it has dried completely. You may
repeat this process now for the remaining 3 tires. Once dry it is a
good idea to go back and re-seal the edges by applying another
small bead of glue and letting it run around the edge of the tire at the
gap between tire and wheel.
STEP #3: Once the tires have completely dried you may now
mount them to the car. Place one #1226 Bearing into each side
of the front wheels as shown in
Figure 74.
STEP #4: Refer to Figure 75 and place one 3/16” shim over the
front axle followed bye the front wheel and than another 3/16” shim.
Now secure with one 8-32 Locknut, be very careful to not
overtighten the nut. you want to tighten it just enough to eliminate
any slop from side to side but no more. Repeat for other side of car.
STEP #5: Now slide one of the rear wheels onto the rear axle as
shown in Figure 76. Be sure to index the roll pin in the axle so
that it slides into the drive slot molded in the back of the wheel.
Now secure with a #5207 locknut. Be sure not to over tighten as
you can bend the roll pin.

Cage and Body Mounting
Step #1: Using the longer threaded side of the #5219 Cage
Turnbuckle, thread it all the way into one of the #3235 Main Cage
Halfs. Now thread the other end of the Cage Turnbuckle into the
#3233 Rear Bumper by turning the entire Main Cage Half
COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to thread the Cage Turnbuckle into the
Rear Bumper. The idea is to get both Rear Bumper and Cage
Half to tighten against the turnbuckle at the same time regardless
of alignment at this point. Now thread the short end of another
Cage Turnbuckle into the other side of the Rear Bumper by
turning the Cage Turnbuckle COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Finally
thread the remaining Main Cage Half onto the Cage Turnbuckle
by turning the entire Cage Half CLOCKWISE. Refer to Figure
#77 for visual.
Step #2: Mount the #3233 Real Tail Brace to the Rear Bumper
with (1) 5/8" BH Screw as shown in Figure # 78.
Step #3: Align both Cage Halves so they are parallel to one
another and tighten the Cage Turnbuckle if needed. Mount the
#3233 Front Bumper by placing (2) 1" SH Screws thru the front of
the Main Cage Halves as shown in Figure #79.
Step #4: Using the (4) Special #5279 3/4" SH Screws with a clip
hole drilled in the head, mount the #3235 Upper Cage Brace onto
the top of the Cage as shown in Figure #80.
Step #5: Sub-assemble the remaining parts which are the #3232
Nerf-Bars using (1) 1/2" BH Screw to mount the Nerf Bar Support
to the Nerf Bar. Look carefully at Figure #81 at the Nerf Bar
Support and Nerf Bar and you will figure out which one is RIGHT
and LEFT from the picture. Before mounting the Nerf Bars you
must mount the Body Panels first. We will do this at a later time.
Step #6: Mount the Cage to the Chassis by sliding the
“hooks” on the front of the cage under the Front
Suspension Arms first, then bring the rest of the cage
down onto the chassis. Mount those two front hooks with
(2) 3/8" FH Screws and the Rear Bumper Brace with (1) 3/
8" FH Screw. Figure #82 shows the Cage mounted to the
Chassis.

Step #7: Using Figure 83 as a guide and the provided left side panel template, cut
the left side #9024 Body Panel to fit the cage. On the right side #9024 Body Panel,
#9029 Eagle Hood, #9027 Tail Tank follow the molded body lines.
For Step #8 thru Step #11 follow Figure #84A and 84B.
Step #8: Install the Left Body Panel first by threading (1) 3/8" FH Screw into the
Cage thru the chassis and the “middle hole” you made in the bottom of the panel.
Step #10: Attach the #3261 Nerf Mount using (2) 3/8” FH Screws directly behind the
Pipe Mount on the inside of the Body Panel. Note that the two holes at the top of the
Mount face toward the front of the car and should be able to be seen thru from the
holes you made with the Body Template. Mount the #3264 Nerf Mount Cup to the
Mount using (1) 3/8” BH Screw.
Step #11: Using (1) 3/8” FH Screw mount the #3260 Cage Mount to the chassis just
behind where the Plastic Exhaust ends on the inside of the Body Panel. Then mount
the #1203 Front Cage Plate on the outside of the Body Panel to the Cage Mount
and Cage using (4) 3/8” BH Screws. Note that the majority of the Cage Plate faces
the front of the car.
Step #9: Mount the #3262 Pipe Mount to the chassis using (2) 5/8” FH Screws and
(1) Lock Nut. The furthest in-board screw will thread into the cage while the outer
screw will pass thru the mount and be secured with a Lock Nut. Use the (1) 3/8” SH
Screw in the end of the mount to secure the wire mount that comes off your motor
pipe.

Step #18: Mount the “loop” side of the Velcro to the
Hood and Tail Tank in the areas shown in Figure #91.
Step #14: Using (1) 3/8” BH Screw Mount the Left Side Nerf Bar
to the #1204 Rear Cage Plate as shown in
Figure #87.
Step #12: Attach (1) #3263 Stand-Off to the chassis using (2) 3/
8” FH Screws in the two remaining holes directly in front of the
left rear suspension arm as shown in Figure 85.
Step #13: Using a pair of wire cutters, cut the (2) cage supports
directly behind the Front Cage Plate. Then cut the remaining part
of the cage directly in front of where the top of the cage comes
down to meet the lower portion as shown in Figure #86.
Step #15: Attach the Rear Cage Plate to the Stand-Off
from Step #12 using (2) 3/8” BH Screws.
Following Figure #88 attach the top of
the Rear Cage Plate to the Cage using
(2) 1/2” BH Screws and Lock Nuts.
Secure the front of the Nerf Bar to the
Cup using (1) 3/8” BH Screw.
Step #16: Fit the #9024 Right Side
Body Panel in the same fashion as you did the
left side panel. Following along with Figure
#89,attach the panel first by threading (1) 3/8”
FH Screw to the Cage thru the Chassis in the
middle hole in the bottom of the Body Panel.
Second place the front of the Right Side Nerf
Bar thru the hole in the front of the Body
Panel. Thread (1) 5/8” FH Screw to the cage
as it passes thru the Nerf Bar and Chassis. Next
secure the Nerf Bar support in the same fashion as the
front of the Nerf Bar using (1) 5/8” FH Screw.
Step #17: Secure the top portion of the Nerf Bar to
the cage by threading (1) 5/8” BH Screw thru the Cage
and into the Nerf Bar as shown in Figure #90.