CustomWorks Aggressor User manual

REQUIRED READING
Thank You and Congratulations on purchasing this Aggressor! Within this kit you will find a
race winning car with over 17 years worth of CUSTOM WORKS design and quality. In order
for you to realize this race car’s winning potential it is important to follow the written text
along with the pictures included. The steps required to build this car are very easy, as long
as you read before you build.
The instructional format for building this car is to open each bag in alphabetical
order. Each bag of parts will be broken down into “Steps” in the manual. All parts
and hardware needed to complete all steps for each separate bag, will be found in
each individual bag. There is no need to steal screws from other bags. In the rare
event you need to look in a different bag for a certain part, it will be noted clearly.
All hardware (screws, washers, nuts, etc…) are referred to by size and type in the
instructions. To help clarify which screw or nut the instruction is calling for refer to the
HARDWARE REFERENCE supplement. The size of the screw or nut should match the
“shadow” of the same piece very closely.
Screw ID’s are: FH=Flat Head BH=Button Head SH=Socket Head SS=Set Screw
Do NOT use power screwdrivers to drive screws into parts.The fast rotation speed can easily
melt and strip plastic parts or cross-thread into the aluminum parts.
REQUIRED TOOLS
Double Sided Tape .110" Drill Bit Super Glue
Hobby Scissors X-Acto Knife 220 Grit Sandpaper
Small Needle Nose Pliers Phillips Head Screw Driver 400 Grit Sandpaper
3/16" Wrench Blue Loctite #43 Drill Bit

Bag A
Chassis
To begin building this kit locate the bag of graphite parts, start by lightly sanding the
edges of the graphite pieces using a medium grade sandpaper like 220 Grit or a
sanding drum on a Dremel. Run a thin bead of Super Glue around the edges to give
pieces greater durability and reduce the chance of splitting the chassis in a hard
wreck. To smooth the edges of the battery slots you may use a file or an appropriate
pointed sanding stone on a Dremel.
Step #1: Attach the #8010 Front Bumper to the #8000
Chassis using (2) 3/8" FH Screws thru the bottom of the
Chassis with (2) #5212 Washers and (2) 4-40 Lock-nuts as
shown in Figure #1.
Step #2: Attach each #8071 Front Track Plates to the
main chassis using (1) 3/8" FH Screw thru the bottom of
the Chassis and (1) 4-40 Lock-nut. Notice that the screw
passes thru the Chassis in the 3rd hole from the top of
the Chassis in the row of holes and then thru the 2nd
hole from the top of the 5 holes on the Front Track Plate
as shown in Figure #2.
Step #3: Using (2) 1/2" BH Screws mount (1) #8018 Center Shock
Tower on each side of the #8023 Center Shock Anchor and fasten with
(2) 4-40 Lock-nuts. Notice the antenna mount hole in the Anchor and
the holes in the Shock Tower face away from each other. Mount the
Center Shock Tower to the Chassis with (2) 3/8" FH Screws thru the
holes shown in Figure #3.
Step #4: Mount the (2) #8022 Anchor Plates to the Chassis
using (4)1/4" FH Screws as shown in Figure #4.
Step #5: Attach the #8012 Shock Tower to the Anchor Plates
using (2) 1/4" BH Screws. Notice that side with the furthest
distance between the shock
mounting holes and the shock tower
mounting holes is on the left side of
the car as shown in Figure #5. Now
mount (2) #8121 Ball Studs thru the
top most holes in the shock tower
and the balls facing the front of the
car using (2) 4-40 Lock-nuts.

Bag B
Step #6: Mount (2) #8013 Body Mounts to the tops of the
Anchor Plates using (4) 1/4" BH Screws thru the holes as
shown in Figure #6.
Step #7: Attach the #8011 Side Bumper to the chassis
using (2) 3/8" FH Screws thru the bottom of the Chassis
with (2) 5212 Washers and (2) 4-
40 Lock-nuts as shown in Figure
#7. You may tighten these down
so the bumper does not move or
you may just barely snug the
screws so that the bumper will “give” if you were to bump
the wall.
Rear Pod
Step #1: Attach the #8021 Left Pod Plate and the #8020 Motor Pod
Plate to the #8016 Bottom Plate with (4) 1/4" FH Screws as shown in Figure #8. Notice that
the back edge of the bottom plate is directly underneath the oval holes for the bearing
carriers, at this point in time we are building the car with a standard length pod.
Step #2: Mount (2) #8120 Tall Ball Studs and (1) #8121 Ball Stud
to the #8014 Shock Plate thru the holes shown in Figure #9 using
(3) 4-40 Lock-nuts. Then mount the Shock Plate to the #8015 Top
Plate using (2) 3/8" FH Screws and (2) 4-40 Lock-nuts thru the
RIGHT most holes in the Top Plate also shown.
Step #3: Attach the Top Plate to the
Pod Plates using (4) 1/4" FH Screws
thru the FORWARD most screws on
the Top Plate. Your rear pod should look like that in Figure #10.
Step #4: Place (2) 3/8" FH
Screws thru the LEFT most set
of each pair of holes on the front on the Bottom Plate as
shown in Figure #11. Press (1) #8049 T-Bar Spacers over
each screw and now place the #8060 .063" Centered
Fiberglass T-Bar over the two screws and secure with (2)
4-40 Lock-Nuts.

Bag C
Rear Axle
Step #5: Finish mounting the T-Bar to the Rear Pod by mounting the
#8017 Rear Steer Clip to the Bottom Plate with (2) 1/4" FH Screws
and (2) 4-40 Lock-nuts. The Clip should be mounted under the T-Bar
and on top of the Bottom Plate. Fasten the Clip to the T-Bar with (1)
1/4" BH Screw and (1) 4-40 Lock-Nut as shown in Figure #12.
NOTE: The Rear Steer Clip has a notch on one end, this is the end
used to angle the pod 1/2 Degree. The opposite end without the
notch is the 0 Degree side. To run the pod in the “offset” position, just flip the rear
steer clip over using the same end either with or without the notch.
Step #6: Following the assembly shown in Figure
#13, mount the #8047 Pivot Ball Carriers and #8048
Pivot Balls to the T-Bar using (4) 3/8" 2-56 X 3/8" BH
Screws per Carrier. Just snug the Screws to the
carrier, the Pivot Balls should move very freely in the
Carriers.
Step #7: Finally mount the T-Bar and Rear Pod
assembly to the Chassis using (2) 5/8" FH
Screws thru the Chassis and secure with (2) 4-40
Lock-Nuts. Your car should now look like the one
shown in Figure #14.
Step #1: Press (12) 1/8" Balls into the #4600 Spur Gear and (1) #1232 1/4" X 3/8"
Unflanged Bearing to the center of the Gear. Place (1) #8035 D-Drive Diff Ring onto
the #8030 Axle so that the notch on the Axle and Ring line up. Apply a small amount
of #4201 Blue Goo Grease to one side of the Diff Ring and
on both sides of the Balls in the Spur Gear. Slide the gear
onto the axle and apply a small amount of Grease to the
other Diff Ring and slide it onto the axle as well with the
greased side facing the Spur Gear. Use Figure #15 as a
reference.

Bag D
Side Shocks
Step #2: Following Figure #16, press (1) #1231
1/4" X 3/8" Flanged Bearing into each end of the
#8031 Standard Diff Hub. Slide the Hub onto the axle
and align the notch in the Hub into the Diff Ring. Next
place (1) #8034 Diff Thrust Cone onto the axle with
the taper facing the Hub. Then slide (3) #8034 Bell
Washers onto the axle with the taper pointing away
from the Thrust Cone. Secure the Diff Assembly to the
Axle using (1) #8036 8-32 Nylon Lock-Nut.
NOTE: Do NOT overtighten the Diff Nut, just tighten it a half turn past when it is
tight to the Bell Washers. You will adjust the Diff Nut tighter once
the car is being driven.
Step #3: Press (1) #1231 1/4" X 3/8" Flanged Bearing into each
Ride Height Adjuster with the 3 Dots on it. Place (1) #8040 Ride
Height Adjuster into each oval on the rear pod plates as shown in
Figure #17.
NOTE: There are 4 different Ride Height Adjuster in the kit
marked by a number on the bottom of the part. Never mix and
match different sized Ride Height Adjusters, the axle should always slide thru both
bearings easily.
Step #4: Slide the Axle thru the Bearings in the Ride Height Adjusters mounted in
the Rear Pod Plates. Following Figure # 18, slide (1) #8037 .050" Axle Spacer and
(2) #8038 .100" Axle Spacers onto the axle with the tapered end facing toward the
Spur Gear. Finally place the #8033 Clamping
Hub onto the axle and tighten so the screw is
just snug, over-tightening will just bend or
break the hub. There should be just a paper
width of play when the axle slides side to
side.
NOTE: Left over in the bag is (8) 3/8" SH screws to be used to mount the Rear
Tires to the Axle Hubs.
For the following 7 steps, complete each step twice to make 2 shocks.
Step #1: As shown in Figure #19, soak the #8103 VC foam with 20wt
Shock Oil and push it into the VC Housing.

Center Shock
Bag E
Step#2: Fill the #8101 Shock Body with 30 weight shock oil up to the line
shown in Figure #20 and insert the #8102 Shock Piston all the way till it
bottoms out.
Step #3: Following the sequence in Figure #21, place the VC Housing and
Foam onto the Shock Shaft with the foam facing up. Next slide the smaller of
the two washers onto the shaft, then the red O-ring followed by the
larger washer. Lastly slide on the 5 sided retaining clip.
Step #4: Holding the shock as shown in Figure #22,
with the piston pressed to the bottom slide the
Assembly Tool over the shaft and press the washers and o-ring into the
shock body until the Retaining Clip is locked into place. The piston should
rebound out of the shock when you press the clip into place. Test the shock
by pressing the shaft back into the shock, the Retaining Clip should not
pop-out, if so the shock has too much oil. The shaft should rebound back out smoothly
after you release your finger.
Step #5: Thread (1) #5235 Long Ball Cup onto both the Shock Body
and the #8104 Shock Shaft End until the Ball Cup reaches the end of
the threads. Your shock should look like the one shown in Figure #23.
Step #6: Slide the Shock Shaft into the Shaft End so that the shaft
bottoms out. Make sure there are no burrs remaining in the Shaft End
and thread the Set Screw into the Shaft End as shown in Figure #24.
Step #7: Slidethe #8105silver springsover
the Shock Body and onto the Shaft End.As
shownin Figure#25 holdthespring downand threadon theSpring
Collar to retain the spring on the shock.
Step #8: Now mount the side shocks to the car by snapping
the ball cups onto the ball studs on top of the rear pod plate and
the balls at the top of the side shock towers. Refer to Figure
#26.
Step #1: Mount (1) #1403 Large Black O-ring into the groove on
the #1402 Threaded Shock Collar as shown in Figure #27.Add a
drop of Shock Oil to the O-ring and thread it onto the #1401
Threaded Shock Body with the “shoulder” facing down.

Step #2: Soak the #1411 VC Foam with the Shock Oil and install it onto
the VC Bobbin as shown in Figure #28.
Step #3: Remove the #1405 Shock Pistons with the “2” on them from
the parts tree as shown in Figure #29. Be SURE to REMOVE ANY
BURRS on the Shock Piston, or your shock will NOT work correctly.
Add a #5230 E-Clip to each side of the #2 Shock Piston on the #1415
Shock Shaft. Install (1) #1406 O-ring over the threads on the TOP of
the Shock Body. Both of these are shown in Figure #30.
Step #4: Following the sequence of parts in Figure #31,
slide the VC Bobbin from Step #2 on the Shock Shaft and
then (2) #1250 O-Rings. Add a couple drops of oil to the O-
Rings and insert the entire Shock Assembly into the Shock
Body and FIRMLY pull the Shock Shaft through in order to
“seat” the VC Bobbin. Thread #8130 Ball Cup onto Shock Shaft
until threads are all the way inside the ball cup.
Step #5: Press the Pivot Ball into the #5228 Ball End. Thread the
Ball End onto the #1418Aluminum Shock Cap so that the distance
from the center of the Pivot Ball to the top of the cap is no less than 5/8".
Step #6: To fill the Shocks with oil and complete their assembly follow
the picures and text provided in Figure #33.

Bag F
Step #7: Slide the #1472 Buggy spring over the shock shaft and on
to the shock body. Compress the spring and than add the #1407
Spring cup by sliding it on the shaft through the notch in the spring
cup. The cup should than slide down over the shock eyelet until it
bottoms out. Release the spring and your shock should now look like
the one at the left of Figure 34
Step #8: Mount the completed Center Shock to the car by
placing the Ball End on the Center Shock between the Center
Shock towers. Secure the Shock to the Towers using (1) 1/2"
BH Screw and (1) 4-40 Lock-Nut with the screw passing thru
the center grouping of holes on the Center Shock Tower.
Lastly snap the Ball Cup end of the shock to the Small Ball
Stud already on the top plate of the rear pod. Your car should
now look like the one shown in Figure #35.
Front Suspension:
Step #1: Followingalongwith Figure #36,shave the(2) verysmall radius
underneatheach#8077 LowerSuspensionArm.Thiswillallows theLower
Suspension Arm to fit flush on the chassis inside the Front Trac Plates.
Step #2: Laying the parts out as shown in Figure #37, press
the #8075 Pivot Ball into the Lower Suspension Arm from
underneath the hole in the Arm with the shoulder of the Pivot
Ball facing UP. Press the #8074 Upper Suspension Eyelet onto
the other Pivot Ball with both the bigger hole on the Eyelet and
shoulder on the Pivot Ball facing DOWN.
Step #3: Attachthe #8072UpperSuspension Mountsto theLower
Suspension Arm using (4) 1/2" BH Screws. Thread the #8073
Turnbuckles into both the #8076 Upper SuspensionArms and the
Eyelets from the previous step. Refer to Figure #38 for example.
Step #4: Mount the Upper Suspension Arm to the Mount using the #8078 Suspension Pin
thru the 2nd Hole from the BOTTOM on the Mount. Notice in
Figure #39 that the shoulders on the Pivot Ball should be
facing each other. Secure the pin using (2) #5008 1/16" E-
Clips with one clip on each side of the Suspension Arm.
Finally thread (1) 1/2 inch set screw into the top of the Mount
to secure the location of the Upper Suspension Arm on the
mount.

Step #5: Following Figure #40 slide the #8080 In-LineAxle into the #8081
In-Line Steering Block so that the holes in both the Axle and Arm line up.
Thread (1) SS420 into the back of the axle only one or two turns, leaving
the set-screw in the axle but not in the way for the next step.
Step #6: Attach (1) 5230 E-Clip to the #8079 Kingpin and slide
it half way thru the top of the Pivot Ball in the Eyelet. Slide (1)
8085 Kingpin Shim onto the Kingpin and then the assembled
Steering Arm with Axle. Finally slide the remaining part of the
kingpin thru the Pivot Ball located in the Lower Suspension Arm
as shown in Figure #41. With the pin now in both Pivot Balls the
Steering Arm should move freely up and down thru the lower pivot ball. If it is tight check
to see how close the E-Clip on the top pivot ball is to the outer edge of the Eyelet. There
should be a gap between the bottom of the E-Clip and the top of the Eyelet roughly the
thickness of the E-Clip. With the E-Clip gap correct and smooth suspension movement,
tighten the Set Screw in the Axle so that it holds the gap set between the E-Clip and
Eyelet. Finish by sliding (1) 8087 .020 Spring onto the
Kingpin and fastening with (1) E-Clip.
Step #7: Press the Front Suspension Assemblies into
the Front Track Plates securing them with (1) Blue
5/8" 8-32 Screw in the front hole and (1) Gold 1/2"
8-32 Screw in the rear hole as shown in Figure #42.
Step #8: FollowingFigure #43,
thread (2) Blue Ball Ends down through the top of the rear hole
on both Steering Arms and secure with (2) 4-40 Locknuts, also
thread (2) Blue Ball Ends into the holes on the #5243 Servo
Saver. Thread the #8130 Ball Cups onto the #8131 Turnbuckle
until the Ball Cup reaches the end of the thread. Complete the
step by snapping the Ball Cups onto the Ball Ends on the
Steering Arm and Servo Saver.
Step #9: Using a #43 Drill bit, drill a hole
perpendicularto theface ofthe #5244Servo Mountthru the“upper” dimples
marks as shown in
Figure #44.
Step #10: Mount your servo to the Servo Mounts using the (4) Blue 5/
16" SH Screws with (1) #4 Washer on each of them as shown in
Figure #45. Now place the servo saver onto the servo horn and secure
with the screw that came with your servo.

Bag G
Step #11: Measure the hole spacing on the bottom
of servo mounts so that you can mark their positions
on the Chassis. You want the steering linkages
angled and the servo mount centered in the car as
shown in Figure #46. Using the 10" Wheelbase, an
approximate distance from the center of the servo
mount holes to the front edge of the Chassis is 4.00"
as view by the grey line on the Chassis in Figure #46.
Once you have marked the positions of the 2 holes
needed drill the chassis using a .110" Drill Bit. If you
have a countersink bit it is recommended to
countersink from the bottom of the chassis. You can now mount the servo using
either (2) 3/8" FH screws or use the (2) 3/8" BH Screws if you did not countersink
the holes.
NOTE: Left over in the bag is (2) Lock-Nuts and (4) #1233 Flanged Bearings to be
used to mount the front tires to the Axles.
Body Mounts and Misc:
Step #1: Mount the (2) #8110 2" Body Posts to the Front Bumper shown in Figure #47
using (2) 3/8" BH Screws. Slide the Body Post Collar over the Post and thread (1) Set
Screw into the collar to hold the body height position.
Step #2: Mount the (2) #8111 3" Body Posts to the Rear Body Mounts
shown in Figure #48 using (2) 3/8" BH Screws. Slide the Body Post
Collar over the Post and thread (1) Set Screw into the collar to hold the
body height position.
Step #3: Mount the (1) #8112 4" Body Post in the center of
the Chassis shown in Figure #49 using (1) 3/8" FH Screws.
Slide the Body Post Collar over the Post and thread (1) Set
Screw into the collar to hold the body height position.
Step #4: Slide your antenna thru the
hole in the Center Shock Anchor and also thru the #3209 Antenna
Tube. Press the Tube into the Center Shock Anchor and place the
Antenna Cap over the end of the Tube and Antenna Wire. Using
double-sided tape mount your receiver to the Chassis in the
suggestedposition shownin Figure #50.SpeedControl placement
canvaryand usuallyendsup whereveryouarenot currentlyrunning
your battery pack.

Now mount your choice of tires and wheels and body on the car and you are ready to go.
Congratulations!!
You have now completed the assembly process of your new Custom Works
Aggressor kit. In the next section of this manual you will find some basic setup hints and
advice. It is important to remember that all tracks and racing surfaces are different.
Therefore the suggestions we give you are general in nature and should by no means
be treated as the only options.
TUNING TIPS: These are some general guidelines for optimizing handling
performance. None of these “tips” are EVER set in stone. On any given day this manual
or any chassis engineering book or guru can be proved wrong by the almighty stop
watch. A good way to approach chassis set-up is to try one change, practice it, think how
the car felt different from before, and compare lap times from the stop watch…..this will
never fail.
Car is Loose or Oversteers
Install Wing to Rear of Car
Slide Wing Toward Rear of Car
Increase Wing Angle
Add Wedge/Tweak to Chassis Using Side
Shocks
Softer Side Shock Springs
Stiffer Front Springs
Softer Center Shock Spring
Decrease Center Shock Spring Tension
Try Harder Front Compound Tire
Try Softer Rear Compound Tire
Move Battery to Center of Car
Raise Front Ride Height
Lower Rear Ride Height
Move RF Suspension Out
Move RR Tire Closer to Pod
Increase Castor
Car Pushes or Understeers
Slide Wing Toward Front of Car
Decrease Wing Angle
Remove Wedge/Tweak to Chassis Using
Side Shocks
Stiffer Side Shock Springs
Softer Front Springs
Stiffer Center Shock Spring
Decrease Center Shock Spring Tension
Try Softer Front Compound Tire
Try Harder Rear Compound Tire
Move Battery Toward Left Side
Lower Front Ride Height
Raise Rear Ride Height
Move RF Suspension IN
Move RR Tire Away From Pod
Decrease Castor
Car is Erratic:
Bent Front Suspension Pin: Remove spring and check for free movement
Chunked Tire: Check side wall to see if rubber is still glued to wheel.
Bent Axle: Tire “wobbles” while spinning.
Loose Screws: Especially Chassis Screws, add Blue Loctite to prevent.
Bound Ball Joint: Steering link and shocks should spin free on balls.
Shocks: Either Bound Up, Bent Shaft, or Out of Oil.
Bearings: Broken or completely seized.
Foreign Objects: Unlucky Dirt/Stones preventing suspension movement especially in front pivot
balls.
Bottoming Out: Look on bottom side of chassis for buffed or scratched areas.
Tire Rub: Look on inside of body for extreme black marks from tires.
Blown Differential
Radio Problem: Bad Servo, Weak Servo Saver Spring, Transmitter Pot blown.

Castor: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the
car. Increasing the angle will make the car more stable out of the turn as well as down the
straights and increase steering entering a turn. Decreasing the angle will make the car feel
more “touchy” at high speeds and help steering while exiting the turn.
Front Toe IN: Front edge of car tires point toward the chassis as viewed from above the
car. Settles and makes steering reaction less aggressive especially on acceleration. Easier
set-up to drive and works well on bumpy tracks.
Front Toe OUT:Front edge of car tires point away from the chassis as viewed from above
the car. Increases aggressiveness of car especially on entry to the turn. Works well on
smooth, high bite tracks where rear traction is not a problem. Generally the preferred set-up
for pan car racing.
Camber: Angle by which the tire and wheel contacts the racing surface when viewed from
the Front or Rear of the car. Oval cars generally always have the Right Side tires leaning
TOWARD the chassis and the Left Side tires leaning AWAY from the chassis. In oval racing
jargon, more camber means more angle TOWARD the chassis on the Right Side and more
angle AWAY from the chassis on the Left Side. Starting from 0 Degrees (tire standing
straight up) ADDING camber in the oval fashion will increase traction when cornering
however remember too much of anything is generally a bad thing. Camber is usually
adjusted (especially foam tires) when one edge of the tire is wearing more than the other.
Camber Gain: Angle of the Upper Suspension Arm relative to the ground, so that when the
suspension travels the amount of camber for that tire will increase. With the arm parallel to
the ground the front suspension will have the least amount of camber gain. Lowering the
Upper Suspension Arm on the Upper Suspension Mount will increase the amount of
camber gained when the suspension travels. There is not a “correct” set-up and once again
too much of anything is generally bad. This will help change the “feel” of the car thru the
turns.
Shock Angle (Center Shock): Mounting the shock in the lower positions will increase the
stiffness of the spring and generally works best on smooth high bite tracks. Mounting the
center shock in the upper positions (shock parallel to the ground) will make the spring feel
softer and works best on low grip surfaces and bumpy tracks as well.
Shock Angle (Side Shocks): Mounted in the shocks in the lower positions will increase
the stiffness of the spring and will decrease chassis roll which is good for high bite tracks
and especially flat tracks. Side Shocks mounted in the upper holes (shocks parallel to the
ground) will make the springs feel softer and will increase chassis roll which seems to be
best for cap tire racing and low bite flat tracks.

Tweak: Refers to the amount of weight placed on the Left Rear and Right Front tires by
adjusting the collars on the side shocks. Threading the collars IN on the right side shock
and OUT on the left side shock will place more weight on the Left Rear tire and on the
Right Front tire and will make the car push. Threading the collars OUT on the right side
shock and IN on the left side shock will place more weight on the Right Rear tire and
Left Front tire and will make the car loose. Generally the car is always set-up so that it is
“tweaked” so that the Left Rear is heavier than the Right Rear. You can check to see
how much weight is on each rear tire by using a hobby knife to pick up the rear of the
car under the center of the rear pod. The Right Rear should come off the ground about
1/8" inch before the Left Rear does. The higher the Right Rear comes off the ground
before the Left Rear does, the more tweak and more weight that is on the Left Rear.
Ride Height: Check by pushing the chassis down once or twice to simulate bumps on
the track. Having the front end higher than the front will make the car increase rear
traction especially out of the turn. Having the front end lower than the rear end will make
the car increase front traction especially entering the turn. Generally a safe place to start
is with all corners of the car even with 1/4" ride height under the chassis. Since these
cars sit so close to the ground even 1/16" difference is drastic.
Battery Placement: Since the battery is the single heaviest component in the car its
placement is critical. Moving the battery further to the left will make the car turn more
thru the center of the turn and coming off but will decrease forward bite. Placing the
battery closer to the center of the car will work better on low bite tracks and increase
forward bite.
Wheelbase: Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles. Mounting the
entire front end assembly in the forward position (10 3/8") will make the car more stable
on long fast tracks with flowing turns or tracks with low bite compared to the power used.
Running the entire front assembly in the rear most position (9 5/8") will make the car
more suitable for short tracks where you are constantly turning. Using the middle
position (10") is a happy-medium of both set-ups described.
Long Pod: Unique to this car is the option to increase the length of the rear pod and
keep the wheelbase and body mount positions the same. Increasing the pod length
(distance from axle to t-bar) makes the center shock and t-plate effectively a lot softer
and best for severely bumpy conditions and flat tracks.
Front Track Width: This can be viewed as the distance between the two front tires but
more accurately it is the distance from the center of the car to the individual tire. For
example moving the Right Front tire closer to the center of the car will increase the
amount of weight transferred to the tire when cornering, best used when the car is
extremely tight. Moving the Right Front away from the center of the car will decrease the
amount of weight transferred to the tire when cornering, best used when the car is
extremely loose or over aggressive to drive. Since the majority of the cars cornering
ability is done thru the Right Front tire, moving the location of the Left Front tire will not
be near as drastic but will help fine tune your set-up.

Rear Track Width: Distance from the rear pod the tires are mounted. This is
accomplished using spacers on the axle located between the bearing and the hubs.
Moving the Right Rear away from the pod will increase steering in the center of the turn
and exiting while decreasing forward bite off the turn. Moving the Right Rear closer to
the pod will increase forward bite thru the center of the turn and especially while exiting.
The opposite can be said for the location of the left rear. Mounting the left rear close to the
pod will increase steering thru the center of the turn and decrease forward bite off the turn,
while mounting it further from the pod will increase stability and forward bite while
cornering.
Rear Pod (On-Center or Offset): Mounting the pod “on-center” positions the motor
(which is the majority of the weight of the rear pod) pretty much center in the rear pod and
generally works best in wide open type driving classes like stock. Mounting the pod “off-
set” places the motor closer to the left rear tire and helps keep the left rear tire planted
during acceleration and works well in modified classes.
T-Plate (On-Center or Offset): Unique to this car is the
option to run the t-bar offset from the center-line of the car.
Along with offsetting the t-bar the rear shock tower and
shocks also offset creating even more left side weight on
the chassis. This feature works well for flat tracks and
especially modified classes when getting the power to the
ground is critical.
Rear Steer: This feature allows you to run the axle straight in the car or angled ½ degree
so that the rear helps turn the car in the same fashion as four wheel steering. This option
works best on tracks where you are constantly turning and when forward bite off the turn is
not a problem.
Rear Wing: To increase traction to the rear of the car wings can be mounted to the rear
window of the body for foam tire racing or directly to the rear pod for cap tire racing.
Generally every class of pan car racing uses a rear wing, with the exception of stock
classes on very high bite tracks since the wing is extra weight and aero drag. On banked
tracks the wing is mounted very flat and below the roof of the car so that just the side
dams of the wing keep the car stable at high speeds. On flat tracks the wing is mounted at
least even with the roof height of the car and angled up almost as much as the angle of
the front window of the body.