CustomWorks Aggressor User manual

REQUIRED READING
Thank You and Congratulations on purchasing this Aggressor! Within this kit you will find a
race winning car with over 17 years worth of CUSTOM WORKS design and quality. In order
for you to realize this race car’s winning potential it is important to follow the written text
along with the pictures included. The steps required to build this car are very easy, as long
as you read before you build.
The instructional format for building this car is to open each bag in alphabetical
order. Each bag of parts will be broken down into “Steps” in the manual. All parts
and hardware needed to complete all steps for each separate bag, will be found in
each individual bag. There is no need to steal screws from other bags. In the rare
event you need to look in a different bag for a certain part, it will be noted clearly.
All hardware (screws, washers, nuts, etc…) are referred to by size and type in the
instructions. To help clarify which screw or nut the instruction is calling for refer to the
HARDWARE REFERENCE supplement. The size of the screw or nut should match the
“shadow” of the same piece very closely.
Screw ID’s are: FH=Flat Head BH=Button Head SH=Socket Head SS=Set Screw
Do NOT use power screwdrivers to drive screws into parts.The fast rotation speed can easily
melt and strip plastic parts or cross-thread into the aluminum parts.
REQUIRED TOOLS
Double Sided Tape .110" Drill Bit Super Glue
Hobby Scissors X-Acto Knife 220 Grit Sandpaper
Small Needle Nose Pliers Phillips Head Screw Driver 400 Grit Sandpaper
3/16" Wrench Blue Loctite #43 Drill Bit

Bag A
Chassis
To begin building this kit locate the bag of graphite parts, start by lightly sanding the
edges of the graphite pieces using a medium grade sandpaper like 220 Grit or a
sanding drum on a Dremel. Run a thin bead of Super Glue around the edges to give
pieces greater durability and reduce the chance of splitting the chassis in a hard
wreck. To smooth the edges of the battery slots you may use a file or an appropriate
pointed sanding stone on a Dremel.
Step #1: Attach the #8010 Front Bumper to the #8000
Chassis using (2) 3/8" FH Screws thru the bottom of the
Chassis with (2) #5212 Washers and (2) 4-40 Lock-nuts as
shown in Figure #1.
Step #2: Attach each #8071 Front Track Plates to the
main chassis using (1) 3/8" FH Screw thru the bottom of
the Chassis and (1) 4-40 Lock-nut. Notice that the screw
passes thru the Chassis in the 3rd hole from the top of
the Chassis in the row of holes and then thru the 2nd
hole from the top of the 5 holes on the Front Track Plate
as shown in Figure #2.
Step #3: Using (2) 1/2" BH Screws mount (1) #8018 Center Shock
Tower on each side of the #8023 Center Shock Anchor and fasten with
(2) 4-40 Lock-nuts. Notice the antenna mount hole in the Anchor and
the holes in the Shock Tower face away from each other. Mount the
Center Shock Tower to the Chassis with (2) 3/8" FH Screws thru the
holes shown in Figure #3.
Step #4: Mount the (2) #8022 Anchor Plates to the Chassis
using (4)1/4" FH Screws as shown in Figure #4.
Step #5: Attach the #8012 Shock Tower to the Anchor Plates
using (2) 1/4" BH Screws. Notice that side with the furthest
distance between the shock
mounting holes and the shock tower
mounting holes is on the left side of
the car as shown in Figure #5. Now
mount (2) #8121 Ball Studs thru the
top most holes in the shock tower
and the balls facing the front of the
car using (2) 4-40 Lock-nuts.

Bag B
Step #6: Mount (2) #8013 Body Mounts to the tops of the
Anchor Plates using (4) 1/4" BH Screws thru the holes as
shown in Figure #6.
Step #7: Attach the #8011 Side Bumper to the chassis
using (2) 3/8" FH Screws thru the bottom of the Chassis
with (2) 5212 Washers and (2) 4-
40 Lock-nuts as shown in Figure
#7. You may tighten these down
so the bumper does not move or
you may just barely snug the
screws so that the bumper will “give” if you were to bump
the wall.
Rear Pod
Step #1: Attach the #8021 Left Pod Plate and the #8020 Motor Pod
Plate to the #8016 Bottom Plate with (4) 1/4" FH Screws as shown in Figure #8. Notice that
the back edge of the bottom plate is directly underneath the oval holes for the bearing
carriers, at this point in time we are building the car with a standard length pod.
Step #2: Mount (2) #8120 Tall Ball Studs and (1) #8121 Ball Stud
to the #8014 Shock Plate thru the holes shown in Figure #9 using
(3) 4-40 Lock-nuts. Then mount the Shock Plate to the #8015 Top
Plate using (2) 3/8" FH Screws and (2) 4-40 Lock-nuts thru the
RIGHT most holes in the Top Plate also shown.
Step #3: Attach the Top Plate to the
Pod Plates using (4) 1/4" FH Screws
thru the FORWARD most screws on
the Top Plate. Your rear pod should look like that in Figure #10.
Step #4: Place (2) 3/8" FH
Screws thru the LEFT most set
of each pair of holes on the front on the Bottom Plate as
shown in Figure #11. Press (1) #8049 T-Bar Spacers over
each screw and now place the #8060 .063" Centered
Fiberglass T-Bar over the two screws and secure with (2)
4-40 Lock-Nuts.

Bag C
Rear Axle
Step #5: Finish mounting the T-Bar to the Rear Pod by mounting the
#8017 Rear Steer Clip to the Bottom Plate with (2) 1/4" FH Screws
and (2) 4-40 Lock-nuts. The Clip should be mounted under the T-Bar
and on top of the Bottom Plate. Fasten the Clip to the T-Bar with (1)
1/4" BH Screw and (1) 4-40 Lock-Nut as shown in Figure #12.
NOTE: The Rear Steer Clip has a notch on one end, this is the end
used to angle the pod 1/2 Degree. The opposite end without the
notch is the 0 Degree side. To run the pod in the “offset” position, just flip the rear
steer clip over using the same end either with or without the notch.
Step #6: Following the assembly shown in Figure
#13, mount the #8047 Pivot Ball Carriers and #8048
Pivot Balls to the T-Bar using (4) 3/8" 2-56 X 3/8" BH
Screws per Carrier. Just snug the Screws to the
carrier, the Pivot Balls should move very freely in the
Carriers.
Step #7: Finally mount the T-Bar and Rear Pod
assembly to the Chassis using (2) 5/8" FH
Screws thru the Chassis and secure with (2) 4-40
Lock-Nuts. Your car should now look like the one
shown in Figure #14.
Step #1: Press (12) 1/8" Balls into the #4600 Spur Gear and (1) #1232 1/4" X 3/8"
Unflanged Bearing to the center of the Gear. Place (1) #8035 D-Drive Diff Ring onto
the #8030 Axle so that the notch on the Axle and Ring line up. Apply a small amount
of #4201 Blue Goo Grease to one side of the Diff Ring and
on both sides of the Balls in the Spur Gear. Slide the gear
onto the axle and apply a small amount of Grease to the
other Diff Ring and slide it onto the axle as well with the
greased side facing the Spur Gear. Use Figure #15 as a
reference.

Bag D
Side Shocks
Step #2: Following Figure #16, press (1) #1231
1/4" X 3/8" Flanged Bearing into each end of the
#8031 Standard Diff Hub. Slide the Hub onto the axle
and align the notch in the Hub into the Diff Ring. Next
place (1) #8034 Diff Thrust Cone onto the axle with
the taper facing the Hub. Then slide (3) #8034 Bell
Washers onto the axle with the taper pointing away
from the Thrust Cone. Secure the Diff Assembly to the
Axle using (1) #8036 8-32 Nylon Lock-Nut.
NOTE: Do NOT overtighten the Diff Nut, just tighten it a half turn past when it is
tight to the Bell Washers. You will adjust the Diff Nut tighter once
the car is being driven.
Step #3: Press (1) #1231 1/4" X 3/8" Flanged Bearing into each
Ride Height Adjuster with the 3 Dots on it. Place (1) #8040 Ride
Height Adjuster into each oval on the rear pod plates as shown in
Figure #17.
NOTE: There are 4 different Ride Height Adjuster in the kit
marked by a number on the bottom of the part. Never mix and
match different sized Ride Height Adjusters, the axle should always slide thru both
bearings easily.
Step #4: Slide the Axle thru the Bearings in the Ride Height Adjusters mounted in
the Rear Pod Plates. Following Figure # 18, slide (1) #8037 .050" Axle Spacer and
(2) #8038 .100" Axle Spacers onto the axle with the tapered end facing toward the
Spur Gear. Finally place the #8033 Clamping
Hub onto the axle and tighten so the screw is
just snug, over-tightening will just bend or
break the hub. There should be just a paper
width of play when the axle slides side to
side.
NOTE: Left over in the bag is (8) 3/8" SH screws to be used to mount the Rear
Tires to the Axle Hubs.
For the following 7 steps, complete each step twice to make 2 shocks.
Step #1: As shown in Figure #19, soak the #8103 VC foam with 20wt
Shock Oil and push it into the VC Housing.

Center Shock
Bag E
Step#2: Fill the #8101 Shock Body with 30 weight shock oil up to the line
shown in Figure #20 and insert the #8102 Shock Piston all the way till it
bottoms out.
Step #3: Following the sequence in Figure #21, place the VC Housing and
Foam onto the Shock Shaft with the foam facing up. Next slide the smaller of
the two washers onto the shaft, then the red O-ring followed by the
larger washer. Lastly slide on the 5 sided retaining clip.
Step #4: Holding the shock as shown in Figure #22,
with the piston pressed to the bottom slide the
Assembly Tool over the shaft and press the washers and o-ring into the
shock body until the Retaining Clip is locked into place. The piston should
rebound out of the shock when you press the clip into place. Test the shock
by pressing the shaft back into the shock, the Retaining Clip should not
pop-out, if so the shock has too much oil. The shaft should rebound back out smoothly
after you release your finger.
Step #5: Thread (1) #5235 Long Ball Cup onto both the Shock Body
and the #8104 Shock Shaft End until the Ball Cup reaches the end of
the threads. Your shock should look like the one shown in Figure #23.
Step #6: Slide the Shock Shaft into the Shaft End so that the shaft
bottoms out. Make sure there are no burrs remaining in the Shaft End
and thread the Set Screw into the Shaft End as shown in Figure #24.
Step #7: Slidethe #8105silver springsover
the Shock Body and onto the Shaft End.As
shownin Figure#25 holdthespring downand threadon theSpring
Collar to retain the spring on the shock.
Step #8: Now mount the side shocks to the car by snapping
the ball cups onto the ball studs on top of the rear pod plate and
the balls at the top of the side shock towers. Refer to Figure
#26.
Step #1: Mount (1) #1403 Large Black O-ring into the groove on
the #1402 Threaded Shock Collar as shown in Figure #27.Add a
drop of Shock Oil to the O-ring and thread it onto the #1401
Threaded Shock Body with the “shoulder” facing down.

Step #2: Soak the #1411 VC Foam with the Shock Oil and install it onto
the VC Bobbin as shown in Figure #28.
Step #3: Remove the #1405 Shock Pistons with the “2” on them from
the parts tree as shown in Figure #29. Be SURE to REMOVE ANY
BURRS on the Shock Piston, or your shock will NOT work correctly.
Add a #5230 E-Clip to each side of the #2 Shock Piston on the #1415
Shock Shaft. Install (1) #1406 O-ring over the threads on the TOP of
the Shock Body. Both of these are shown in Figure #30.
Step #4: Following the sequence of parts in Figure #31,
slide the VC Bobbin from Step #2 on the Shock Shaft and
then (2) #1250 O-Rings. Add a couple drops of oil to the O-
Rings and insert the entire Shock Assembly into the Shock
Body and FIRMLY pull the Shock Shaft through in order to
“seat” the VC Bobbin. Thread #8130 Ball Cup onto Shock Shaft
until threads are all the way inside the ball cup.
Step #5: Press the Pivot Ball into the #5228 Ball End. Thread the
Ball End onto the #1418Aluminum Shock Cap so that the distance
from the center of the Pivot Ball to the top of the cap is no less than 5/8".
Step #6: To fill the Shocks with oil and complete their assembly follow
the picures and text provided in Figure #33.

Bag F
Step #7: Slide the #1472 Buggy spring over the shock shaft and on
to the shock body. Compress the spring and than add the #1407
Spring cup by sliding it on the shaft through the notch in the spring
cup. The cup should than slide down over the shock eyelet until it
bottoms out. Release the spring and your shock should now look like
the one at the left of Figure 34
Step #8: Mount the completed Center Shock to the car by
placing the Ball End on the Center Shock between the Center
Shock towers. Secure the Shock to the Towers using (1) 1/2"
BH Screw and (1) 4-40 Lock-Nut with the screw passing thru
the center grouping of holes on the Center Shock Tower.
Lastly snap the Ball Cup end of the shock to the Small Ball
Stud already on the top plate of the rear pod. Your car should
now look like the one shown in Figure #35.
Front Suspension:
Step #1: Followingalongwith Figure #36,shave the(2) verysmall radius
underneatheach#8077 LowerSuspensionArm.Thiswillallows theLower
Suspension Arm to fit flush on the chassis inside the Front Trac Plates.
Step #2: Laying the parts out as shown in Figure #37, press
the #8075 Pivot Ball into the Lower Suspension Arm from
underneath the hole in the Arm with the shoulder of the Pivot
Ball facing UP. Press the #8074 Upper Suspension Eyelet onto
the other Pivot Ball with both the bigger hole on the Eyelet and
shoulder on the Pivot Ball facing DOWN.
Step #3: Attachthe #8072UpperSuspension Mountsto theLower
Suspension Arm using (4) 1/2" BH Screws. Thread the #8073
Turnbuckles into both the #8076 Upper SuspensionArms and the
Eyelets from the previous step. Refer to Figure #38 for example.
Step #4: Mount the Upper Suspension Arm to the Mount using the #8078 Suspension Pin
thru the 2nd Hole from the BOTTOM on the Mount. Notice in
Figure #39 that the shoulders on the Pivot Ball should be
facing each other. Secure the pin using (2) #5008 1/16" E-
Clips with one clip on each side of the Suspension Arm.
Finally thread (1) 1/2 inch set screw into the top of the Mount
to secure the location of the Upper Suspension Arm on the
mount.

Step #5: Following Figure #40 slide the #8080 In-LineAxle into the #8081
In-Line Steering Block so that the holes in both the Axle and Arm line up.
Thread (1) SS420 into the back of the axle only one or two turns, leaving
the set-screw in the axle but not in the way for the next step.
Step #6: Attach (1) 5230 E-Clip to the #8079 Kingpin and slide
it half way thru the top of the Pivot Ball in the Eyelet. Slide (1)
8085 Kingpin Shim onto the Kingpin and then the assembled
Steering Arm with Axle. Finally slide the remaining part of the
kingpin thru the Pivot Ball located in the Lower Suspension Arm
as shown in Figure #41. With the pin now in both Pivot Balls the
Steering Arm should move freely up and down thru the lower pivot ball. If it is tight check
to see how close the E-Clip on the top pivot ball is to the outer edge of the Eyelet. There
should be a gap between the bottom of the E-Clip and the top of the Eyelet roughly the
thickness of the E-Clip. With the E-Clip gap correct and smooth suspension movement,
tighten the Set Screw in the Axle so that it holds the gap set between the E-Clip and
Eyelet. Finish by sliding (1) 8087 .020 Spring onto the
Kingpin and fastening with (1) E-Clip.
Step #7: Press the Front Suspension Assemblies into
the Front Track Plates securing them with (1) Blue
5/8" 8-32 Screw in the front hole and (1) Gold 1/2"
8-32 Screw in the rear hole as shown in Figure #42.
Step #8: FollowingFigure #43,
thread (2) Blue Ball Ends down through the top of the rear hole
on both Steering Arms and secure with (2) 4-40 Locknuts, also
thread (2) Blue Ball Ends into the holes on the #5243 Servo
Saver. Thread the #8130 Ball Cups onto the #8131 Turnbuckle
until the Ball Cup reaches the end of the thread. Complete the
step by snapping the Ball Cups onto the Ball Ends on the
Steering Arm and Servo Saver.
Step #9: Using a #43 Drill bit, drill a hole
perpendicularto theface ofthe #5244Servo Mountthru the“upper” dimples
marks as shown in
Figure #44.
Step #10: Mount your servo to the Servo Mounts using the (4) Blue 5/
16" SH Screws with (1) #4 Washer on each of them as shown in
Figure #45. Now place the servo saver onto the servo horn and secure
with the screw that came with your servo.

Bag G
Step #11: Measure the hole spacing on the bottom
of servo mounts so that you can mark their positions
on the Chassis. You want the steering linkages
angled and the servo mount centered in the car as
shown in Figure #46. Using the 10" Wheelbase, an
approximate distance from the center of the servo
mount holes to the front edge of the Chassis is 4.00"
as view by the grey line on the Chassis in Figure #46.
Once you have marked the positions of the 2 holes
needed drill the chassis using a .110" Drill Bit. If you
have a countersink bit it is recommended to
countersink from the bottom of the chassis. You can now mount the servo using
either (2) 3/8" FH screws or use the (2) 3/8" BH Screws if you did not countersink
the holes.
NOTE: Left over in the bag is (2) Lock-Nuts and (4) #1233 Flanged Bearings to be
used to mount the front tires to the Axles.
Body Mounts and Misc:
Step #1: Mount the (2) #8110 2" Body Posts to the Front Bumper shown in Figure #47
using (2) 3/8" BH Screws. Slide the Body Post Collar over the Post and thread (1) Set
Screw into the collar to hold the body height position.
Step #2: Mount the (2) #8111 3" Body Posts to the Rear Body Mounts
shown in Figure #48 using (2) 3/8" BH Screws. Slide the Body Post
Collar over the Post and thread (1) Set Screw into the collar to hold the
body height position.
Step #3: Mount the (1) #8112 4" Body Post in the center of
the Chassis shown in Figure #49 using (1) 3/8" FH Screws.
Slide the Body Post Collar over the Post and thread (1) Set
Screw into the collar to hold the body height position.
Step #4: Slide your antenna thru the
hole in the Center Shock Anchor and also thru the #3209 Antenna
Tube. Press the Tube into the Center Shock Anchor and place the
Antenna Cap over the end of the Tube and Antenna Wire. Using
double-sided tape mount your receiver to the Chassis in the
suggestedposition shownin Figure #50.SpeedControl placement
canvaryand usuallyendsup whereveryouarenot currentlyrunning
your battery pack.