
18
the metal.) To start the arc, simply press the
trigger on the torch (select panel setting) or
step lightly on the foot pedal (select pedal
setting) while holding the torch 1/8” or less
from the weld at about 15 degree angle from
vertical, with the tungsten pointed to the di-
rection of the weld travel. A small High Fre-
quency spark will be issued at the tip of the
tungsten. If no HF buzzing sound is heard or
spark seen check connections immediately,
especially the work clamp connection to the
metal. The work clamp should be placed as
close to the piece to be welded as possible
on CLEAN metal, right next to the weld if pos-
sible. Once the HF starts, the arc should es-
tablish and the buzzing sound should cease.
On inverter style welders, the internal
switching speeds that generate the AC and
DC are are so quick, that no noticeable arc
fluctuation is observed. This is important
especially for AC welding. A fast switching
inverter means that the arc virtually never
extinguishes when polarity is switched from
negative to positive and back again and a
true square wave can be formed. Trans-
former welders, even ones with square wave
output must provide a constant overlay of HF
to keep the arc from extinguishing as it
switches polarity. With an inverter, HF is only
used to start the arc. This prevents harmful
electrical interference with other sensitive
electronic equipment that limits transformer
TIG applications.
2. After the arc starts, use a “knitting” tech-
nique to bring the edges of the puddle to-
gether by working the torch from side to side
slowly across the weld seam to heat the met-
al to the melting point. At first it may not
seem like the two sides will flow together due
to the surface tension of the metal. However,
this technique will gently coax the weld met-
al to flow together. Adding a drop of filler
will sometimes help get the puddle started if
the gap is wide between the two parts or the
sides do not want to begin to flow together.
Steady hands and practice are required for
optimal arc length. The best arc length is
one that resides just above the puddle with a
distance of about .035” or less to reduce
contamination and porosity. The force of the
arc will usually move the weld puddle togeth-
er at this distance with gentle torch manipu-
lation. Of course greater arc lengths can be
managed but generally only higher amperag-
Section 3 Getting Started
es and thicker welds. Using this low amp ap-
proach will keep heat distortion to a minimum
on thin materials. As the puddle flows togeth-
er move the torch forward slightly, and
pause while adding a drop of filler metal,
making a slight convex shape to the weld. Al-
ways look for the slight key-hole shape to ap-
pear at the front of the weld, particularly in
the first pass to judge penetration. If a con-
caved, dish shape of the weld occurs, add
more filler, speed up, or reduce heat. A con-
cave weld particularly during the first pass
may be a result of over penetration. A quick
look at the bottom of the weld will tell. The
bottom of the weld should roughly resemble
the top of the weld on the first pass. Attempt-
ing to make thick single pass welds is not ad-
visable. A single pass weld thickness should
not exceed the diameter of the filler rod for
best weld quality and strength.
3. Starting with mild steel is the best way to
perfect TIG welding skills. The properties of
steel allows more time to develop the puddle
allowing the user to recognize what is hap-
pening and develop technique. Even if weld-
ing aluminum is the ultimate goal, time and
effort spent practicing with mild steel will
help gain the necessary skills and avoid wast-
ing more expensive and difficult to weld met-
als. Trying to weld aluminum before master-
ing steel, is similar to the old adage “Trying to
run before you learn to crawl.” While welding
steel, you will notice the metal go from a dull
red, to a bright orange, to yellow and finally to
a bright yellow white where the puddle begins
to look “wet” with a shiny appearance. This is
the time to begin working the torch slowly
back and forth across the seam to get the
metal to flow together. A quick dab of filler as
the puddle flows together will fuse the two
metals firmly together. The filler should flow
into the weld seamlessly if done correctly.
Lumpy, partially melted filler, or molten filler
metal that sits on top of the weld without
drawing into the weld pool (wetting in) is too
cool or travel is too fast. If large, gaping key-
holes open up or the underside of the weld
has “icicles” hanging from it then the forward
travel speed is too slow or amps are too high.
Adding a slight pause in forward torch travel
between the dips will form the “stack of
dimes” that are often coveted while welding
and will give more time for complete wet in. A
slight 1/8” or less step backwards with the