ewheels EW-18 Operating instructions

EW-18
Service & Repair Manual

www.ewheelsdealers.com
[phone] - Service
[phone] - Sales
CAUTION - To reduce the risk of fire or Electrical Shock, DO NOT
expose this unit to any rain or moisture.
Table Of Contents
Specification’s………. 10
Alignment Procedure………. 20
Diagnosing Common Problem’s……… 30
Scooter Not Moving………. 40
No Power, Not Turning On………. 50
Loose Brakes, Parking Brake………. 60
Changing Tire, Tube………. 70
Parts Removal / Break Down………. 80

Specifications
Front Tire Size –16”x 2.5”
Rear Tire Size –4”x 2”
Tire P.S.I –25 to 35
Weight Capacity - 300 Lbs.
Top Speed - 15 mph
Estimated Range - 20 miles Max
Climbing Angle - 10⁰
Turning Radius - 22”
Basket Dimensions - 9”x9”x11”
Ground Clearance - 4.25”
Overall Dimensions - 41”x 27” x 28.5” (L”xW”xH”)
Seat Width Dimensions - 14.5” x 10”
Power Motor - 350-Watt Brushless Hub
Battery Voltage and Type –
Floor Clearance –4”
Tools Needed for Entire Unit
2mm, 3mm, 5mm, 6mm Allen Wrenches
8mm, 10mm, 14mm, 22mm Socket or Wrenches
Philips Head Screwdriver, Wire Cutters, Needle Nose Plyers

Diagnosing Common Problem’s
Not Moving?
You would want to start by checking the brake sensor. Make sure the
hand brake in fully released and the emergency brake is not locked in.
If still nothing, then you will need to look at the connections under the
cover in the middle. A multi meter might be needed as well to do some
testing on connections. Testing on the throttle and batteries would
need to be done.
Not Turning On?
You would want to grab the charger and plug it in, you may see a
green light given the unit is dead. After an hour it should switch to the
red color indicating the unit is charging, leave it on for 6 to 8 hours for
a full charge. Also want to look and make sure all the wiring from the
headset is intact and does not look frayed. Please see page______ to see
more information.

Alignment Procedure
You are going to want to untwist the plastic knob until the metal part
is loose enough to fold the handlebars down.
You are going to want to use the 6mm Allan
wrench to loosen the middle bolt enough to turn
the handlebars without turning the front wheel.
Make the handlebars and tires are aligned then
carefully fold handlebars down and tight the 6mm
Allen wrench bolt. You can use your feet to hold the
front wheel while doing so.

Testing For No Power
You want to set the multi meter to DC-100,
put it on the prongs as shown in the photo.
It should be admitting 12Volts or higher if
charged (Max 38-40Volts).
Making sure all the connections at the headset are
connected and don’t look pulled out. Also going in
under the cover to double check battery
connections and all others as well would never hurt.

Loose Brakes or Parking Brake Not Holding
Making sure you have your parking fully
released. There are 2 parts the arrows are
pointing to where you can make some
minimal adjustments to loosen or tighten the
brake tension.
There is going to be this 10mm nut at the end
of the wire where you can tighten or loosen the
brakes to your standards. If parking brake is not
holding, make sure to tighten here first.

Changing Tires & Tubes
Make sure the Tires are DEFLATED before removing anything.
Its going to be a 22mm socket and rachet that
will be used to take of both rear wheels when
changing the tubes.
Mae sure to have a 5mm Allen wring or
socket as shown in photo to split the rim.
Once all 3 have been removed you can split
the rim into 2 parts. Be careful as a spacer
might fall out from center.
For the front tube & tire the nut will be
the 22mm socket or wrench to take it off
front forks. Be carful of the motor wire
when doing so as well.

There is a 5mm Allen wrench bolt that helps
hold the brake housing on that you need to
remove as well.
Removing the brake cable just loosen the bolt
and pull cable through, watch the spring as it
may get lost.
Testing The Motor
Start by testing the resistance at the motor phase lines using all color combinations.
If your meter displays any resistance levels other than infinite/zero, then the motor
needs to be replaced.
Next, check that the Hall Effect positioning sensor’s voltage is decreasing when the
wheel is being rotated. Rotate the wheel by hand, not with the throttle.
While under a full load (with the throttle pulled all the way) the motor should
respond if the controller, harness, and throttle have already been tested, and the
brake sensors have already been checked. If not, the motor needs to be replaced.

Throttle Testing
The throttle responds via a hall effect positioning sensor. The connection that you
are going to need to get to is going to be under the battery cover, by the controller as
shown below. The sensor increases its output voltage the more the throttle is pulled.
To test this sensor, start by turning the scooter on. Next, set your multimeter to DC
20 volts (or closest setting). While leaving the scooter powered on, and ensuring the
throttle to harness, harness to controller, and controller to motor connections are
plugged in, insert the multimeter red lead into the throttle connections red wire, and
the black multimeter lead into the throttle connections black wire. The voltage
reading should be around .82 volts when the
throttle is not being pulled (no load).
If you are getting the correct voltage with the power
turned on, without pulling the throttle (no load),
then the next step is to check the throttle voltage
under load (while pulling the throttle). The voltage
should increase to around 3.51 volts under full load
(while fully rotated). The scooter should engage
forward when the voltage rating hits approximately
1.54 volts. If all steps above are followed, and the
scooter is not driving, the throttle is not the
component causing the problem
To test that the controller is emitting the proper voltage to the motor, connect your multimeter to
any color combination on the motor phase wires where they connect at the yellow junction box.
Set your meter at DC 50 or higher, and test under load (with the scooter power turned on, while
pulling the throttle). The voltage should start at 0 and increase between 2.5-3.6 volts while under
full load (holding the throttle pulled at the way).

Parts Removal
You will need a Philips head screwdriver and 5mm Allen wrenches/socket.
Removing these screws below will get you access to the batteries, controller and all
the connections (Important stuff).

Remove all Philip
screws to take the
floorboard off.
We will be removing the handlebars from
the front forks also, so you are able to take
the front forks off as well. Fold the
handlebars down and get a 6mm Allen
wrench to loosen the bolt underneath.

After loosening the bolt, you are going to want to remove the big nut that is holding
the forks in place. Once you have removed the nut you will want to be careful
pulling up the frame as the bearings might fall out.
To remove the front portion of the frame you will need a
14mm socket or wrench