6
STEP 1: Unpack filter unit, making sure to remove entire contents of the shipping container prior to disposal.
STEP 2: Withthefilterunitintheuprightposition,removethecontrolvalvefromthemineraltankbeingcareful
to not pull the distributor out of the gravel at the bottom of the tank.
STEP 3: Cover the top of the distributor tube with the included red cap and, using the included blue media
funnel, pour filter media(s) (purchased separately) into the mineral tank. If using multiple filter
media types, load in the order of heaviest (most dense) to lightest (least dense). 12” – 14” of space
MUST be left empty at the top of the mineral tank to allow for media bedexpansion during backwash
and to prevent filter media from being discharged through the drain line.
STEP 4: Use a garden hose or bucket to fill the media tank with water.
IMPORTANT: Carbon, FilterAg, Zeolite and Birm must be soaked for at least 2 hours prior to
submitting it to full backwash flow rate to prevent loss of media to drain.
STEP 5: Clean mineral tank threads to remove any filter media. Remove red cap from distributor tube and
reinstall control valve by threading it securely ontothe mineral tank.(O-ring seal: HAND TIGHTEN
ONLY!)
STEP 6: Shutoffallwateratmainsupply. Onprivatewellsystem,turnoffpowertopumpanddrainpressure
tank. Make certain pressure is relieved from complete system by opening nearest faucet to drain
system. SHUT OFF FUEL / ELECTRICAL SUPPLY TO WATER HEATER.
STEP 7: Plumb the water supply line to the unit's bypass valve inlet,locatedat the right rearas you face the
unit. There are a variety of installation fittings available. They are listed under Installation Fitting
Assemblies, pages 21-23.Whenassemblingthe installation fittingpackage(inlet andoutlet),connect
the fitting to the plumbing system first and then attach the nut, split ring, and "O" Ring. Heat from
soldering orsolventcements may damage the nut, split ring, or "O" Ring. Solderjoints should be cool
and solvent cements should be set before installing the nut, split ring, and "O" Ring. Avoid getting
solder flux, primer, and solvent cement on any part of the "O" Rings, split rings, bypass valve, or
controlvalve.Ifthebuilding's electricalsystemisgroundedtotheplumbing,install acoppergrounding
strap from the inlet to the outlet pipe. Plumbing must be done in accordance with all applicable local
codes. MAKE CERTAIN WATER ENTERS THROUGH INLET AND DISCHARGES THROUGH
OUTLET.
STEP 8: Apply thread tape to DLFC Assembly. Remove drain line flow control (DLFC) retainer clip (Figure
6, Page 7) and remove the DLFC assembly from the valve body, (Figure 6, Page 7). Apply thread
tapetothreads.Slidedrainfittingcompressionnutontoprovideddraintubingandplacethetubeinsert
insidetheend ofthe tubing. Inserttubingendwithinsertintodrainelbowandtightenthecompression
nut onto the thread taped elbow. Reinsert DLFC assembly into the valve body, making certain it is
FULLY inserted before replacing the retaining clip.
STEP 9: Install drain line. Use the provided ½” I.D. polyethylene tubing (DO NOT USE FLEXIBLE VINYL
TUBING!) to run drain line from controlvalve DLFC fitting (Figure 6, Page 7) tofloor drainor sump pit
capable of handling the backwash rate of the filter (refer to specifications and flow rate on page 16)
or discard the compression fitting and use 3/4" NPT fitting to connect a rigid pipe drain line
(recommended). If backwash flow rate is greater than 7.5 gpm, use ¾” FNPT connector with rigid
drain line. There must be an air gap at the end of the drain line to prevent siphoning of wastewater.
Length of drain line should be 15’ or less. AVOID OVERHEAD DRAINS.