6
STEP 1: Unpack filter unit, making sure to remove entire contents of the shipping container prior to
disposal.
STEP 2: With the filter unit in the upright position, remove the control valve from the mineral tank being
careful to not pull the distributor out of the gravel at the bottom of the tank. If the filter model has a
“-DH” suffix, do not remove the control valve. Just remove the tank dome hole plug.
STEP 3: If the control valve was removed, cover the top of the distributor tube with the included red cap.
Using the included blue media funnel, pour filter media(s) into the mineral tank. If using multiple
filter media types, load in the order of heaviest (most dense) to lightest (least dense). 14” of space
MUST be left empty at the top of the mineral tank to allow for media bed expansion during
backwash and to prevent filtermedia from being discharged through the drain line.
STEP 4: Use a garden hose or bucket to fill the media tank with water.
IMPORTANT: Carbon, Filter Ag, Zeolite and Greensand Plus must be soaked for at least 2
hours prior to submitting it to full backwash flow rate to prevent loss of media to drain.
STEP 5: Clean mineral tank threads to remove any filter media. If the control valve was removed, remove
red cap from distributor tube and reinstall control valve by threading it securely onto the mineral
tank. Otherwise simply replace the tank dome hole plug. (O-ring seal: HAND TIGHTEN ONLY!)
STEP 6: Shut off all water at main supply. On private well system, turn off power to pump and drain
pressure tank. Make certain pressure is relieved from complete system by opening nearest faucet
to drain system. SHUT OFFFUEL / ELECTRICAL SUPPLY TO WATER HEATER.
STEP 7: Plumb the water supply line to the unit's bypass valve inlet, located at the right rear as you face
the unit. There are a variety of installation fittings available. They are listed under Installation Fitting
Assemblies, pages 23-25. When assembling the installation fitting package (inlet and outlet),
connect the fitting to the plumbing system first and then attach the nut, split ring, and "O" Ring. Heat
from soldering or solvent cements may damage the nut, split ring, or "O" Ring. Solder joints should
be cool and solvent cements should be set before installing the nut, split ring, and "O" Ring. Avoid
getting solder flux, primer, and solvent cement on any part of the "O" Rings, split rings, bypass
valve, or control valve. If the building's electrical systemis grounded to the plumbing, installa copper
grounding strap from the inlet to the outlet pipe. Plumbing must be done in accordance with all
applicable local codes. MAKE CERTAIN WATER ENTERS THROUGH INLET AND
DISCHARGES THROUGH OUTLET.
STEP 8: Apply thread tape to DLFC Assembly. Remove drain line flow control (DLFC) retainer clip
(Figure 6, Page 7) and remove the DLFC assembly from the valve body, (Figure 6, Page 7). Apply
thread tape to threads. Slide drain fitting compression nut onto provided drain tubing and place the
tube insertinside the end of the tubing. Insert tubing end with insert into drain elbow and tighten the
compression nut onto the thread taped elbow. Reinsert DLFC assembly into the valve body,
makingcertain itis FULLY inserted before replacing the retaining clip.
STEP 9: Install drain line. Use the provided ½” I.D. polyethylene tubing (DO NOT USE FLEXIBLE VINYL
TUBING!) to run drain line from control valve DLFC fitting (Figure 6, Page 7) to floor drain or sump
pit capable of handling the backwash rate of the filter (refer to specifications and flow rate on page
17) or discard the compression fitting and use the ¾” NPT fitting to connect a rigid pipe drain line . If
backwash flow rate is greater than 7.5 gpm, use existing NPT connector with rigid drain line. There
must be an air gap at the end of the drain line to prevent siphoning of wastewater. Length of drain
line should be 15’ or less. AVOID OVERHEAD DRAINS.